recovered, we resumed our march. Ascending the stream, in the course
of the day we came upon the dead bodies of two men, so much mangled,
and disfigured by the wild beasts, that we could only discover that
they were white men. They had been shot by the Indians with arrows, the
ground near them being stuck full of arrows. They had been scalped.
Our feelings may be imagined, at seeing the mangled bodies of people
of our own race in these remote and unpeopled prairies. We consoled
ourselves with believing that they died like brave men. We had soon
afterwards clear evidence of this fact, for, on surveying the vicinity
at the distance of a few hundred yards, we found the bodies of five
dead Indians. The ground all around was torn and trampled by horse and
footmen. We collected the remains of the two white men, and buried
them. We then ascended the stream a few miles, and encamped. Finding
signs of Indians, who could have left the spot but a few hours before,
we made no fire for fear of being discovered, and attacked in the
night. Sometime after dark, ten of us started up the creek in search
of their fires. About four miles from our encampment, we saw them a
few hundred yards in advance. Twenty fires were distinctly visible.
We counselled with each other, whether to fire on them or not. Our
conclusion was, that the most prudent plan was to return, and apprize
our companions of what we had seen. In consequence of our information,
on our return, sixty men were chosen, headed by my father, who set off
in order {27} to surround their camp before daylight. I was one of the
number, as I should have little liked to have my father go into battle
without me, when it was in my power to accompany him. The remainder
were left in charge of our camp, horses, and mules. We had examined
our arms and found them in good order. About midnight we came in sight
of their fires, and before three o'clock were posted all around them,
without having betrayed ourselves. We were commanded not to fire a gun,
until the word was given. As it was still sometime before daylight,
we became almost impatient for the command. As an Indian occasionally
arose and stood for a moment before the fire, I involuntarily took
aim at him with the thought, how easily I could destroy him, but my
orders withheld me. Twilight at length came, and the Indians began
to arise. They soon discovered two of our men, and instantly raising
the war shout, came upon us with great fury. Our men stood firm,
until they received the order which was soon given. A well directed
and destructive fire now opened on them, which they received, and
returned with some firmness. But when we closed in upon them they fled
in confusion and dismay. The action lasted fifteen minutes. Thirty of
their dead were left on the field, and we took ten prisoners, whom we
compelled to bury the dead. One of our men was wounded, and died the
next day. We took our prisoners to our encampment, where we questioned
them with regard to the two white men, we had found, and buried the
preceding day. They acknowledged, that their party killed them, and
assigned as a reason for so doing, that when the white men were asked
by the chief to divide their powder and balls with him, they refused.
It was then determined by the chief, that they should be killed, and
the whole taken. In carrying this purpose into effect, the Indians lost
four of their best young men, and obtained but little powder and lead,
as a compensation.
We then asked them to what nation they belonged? They answered the
Crow.[34] This nation is distinguished for bravery and skill in war.
Their bows and arrows were then given them, and they were told, that we
never killed defenceless prisoners, but {28} that they must tell their
brothers of us, and that we should not have killed any of their nation,
had not they killed our white brothers; and if they did so in future,
we should kill all we found of them, as we did not fear any number,
they could bring against us. They were then allowed to go free, which
delighted them, as they probably expected that we should kill them,
it being their custom to put all their prisoners to death by the most
shocking and cruel tortures. That they may not lose this diabolical
pleasure by the escape of their prisoners, they guard them closely day
and night. One of them, upon being released, gave my father an eagle's
feather, saying, you are a good and brave man, I will never kill
another white man.
We pursued our journey on the 1st of September. Our advance was made
with great caution, as buffaloes were now seen in immense herds, and
the danger from Indians was constant. Wandering tribes of these people
subsist on the buffaloes, which traverse the interior of these plains,
keeping them constantly in sight.
On the morning of the 2d, we started early. About ten o'clock we saw a
large herd of buffaloes approaching us with great speed. We endeavored
to prevent their running among our pack mules, but it was in vain. They
scattered them in every direction over the plain; and although we rode
in among the herd, firing on them, we were obliged to follow them an
hour, before we could separate them sufficiently to regain our mules.
After much labor we collected all, with the exception of one packed
with dry goods, which the crowd drove before them. The remainder of the
day, half our company were employed as a guard, to prevent a similar
occurrence. When we encamped for the night, some time was spent in
driving the buffaloes a considerable distance from our camp. But for
this precaution, we should have been in danger of losing our horses and
mules entirely.
The following morning, we took a S. S. W. course, which led us from the
stream, during this day's journey. Nothing occurred worthy of mention,
except that we saw a great number of {29} wolves, which had surrounded
a small herd of buffaloe cows and calves, and killed and eaten several.
We dispersed them by firing on them. We judged, that there were at
least a thousand. They were large and as white as sheep. Near this
point we found water, and encamped for the night.
On the morning of the 4th, a party was sent out to kill some buffaloe
bulls, and get their skins to make moccasins for our horses, which
detained us until ten o'clock. We then packed up and travelled six
miles. Finding a lake, we encamped for the night. From this spot, we
saw one of the most beautiful landscapes, that ever spread out to the
eye. As far as the plain was visible in all directions, innumerable
herds of wild horses, buffaloes, antelopes, deer, elk, and wolves,
fed in their wild and fierce freedom. Here the sun rose, and set, as
unobscured from the sight, as on the wastes of ocean. Here we used the
last of our salt, and as for bread, we had seen none, since we had left
the Pawnee village. I hardly need observe, that these are no small
deprivations.
[Illustration: Rescue of an Indian Child]
The next day we travelled until evening, nothing occurring, that
deserves record. Our encampment was near a beautiful spring, called
Bellefontaine, which is visited by the Indians, at some seasons of the
year. Near it were some pumpkins, planted by the Indians. I cooked one,
but did not find it very palateable: The next day we encamped without
water. Late in the evening of the following day we reached a stream,
and encamped. As we made our arrangements for the night, we came upon
a small party of Indians. They ran off immediately, but we pursued
them, caught four, and took them to the camp they had left, a little
distant from ours. It contained between twenty and thirty women and
children, beside three men. The women were frightened at our approach,
and attempted to run. The Indians in our possession said something to
them in their own language, that induced them to stop; but it was some
time, before they were satisfied, that we intended them no harm. We
returned to our camp, and were attending to our mules and horses. Our
little Indian boy was playing about the camp, as usual. {30} Suddenly
our attention was arrested by loud screams or cries; and looking up,
we saw our little boy in the arms of an Indian, whose neck he was
closely clasping, as the Indian pressed him to his bosom, kissing him,
and crying at the same time. As we moved towards the spot, the Indian
approached us, still holding the child in his arms; and falling on his
knees, made us a long speech, which we understood only through his
signs. During his speech, he would push the child from him, and then
draw it back to him, and point to us. He was the father of this boy,
whom we saved from being burnt by the Pawnees. He gave us to understand
by his signs, that his child was carried off by his enemies. When the
paroxysm of his joy was past, we explained, as well as we could, how
we obtained the child. Upon hearing the name Pawnee, he sprang upon
his feet, and rushed into his tent. He soon came out, bringing with
him two Indian scalps, and his bow and arrows, and insisted, that we
should look at the scalps, making signs to tell us, that they were
Pawnee scalps, which he took at the time he lost his child. After he
finished this explanation, he would lay the scalps a short distance
from him, and shoot his arrows through them, to prove his great enmity
to this nation. He then presented my father a pair of leggins and a
pipe, both neatly decorated with porcupine quills; and accompanied by
his child, withdrew to his tent, for the night. Just as the morning
star became visible, we were aroused from our slumbers, by the crying
and shouting of the Indians in their tent. We arose, and approached it,
to ascertain the cause of the noise. Looking in, we saw the Indians all
laying prostrate with their faces to the ground. We remained observing
them, until the full light of day came upon them.--They then arose, and
placed themselves around the fire. The next movement was to light a
pipe, and begin to smoke. Seeing them blow the smoke first towards the
point where the sun arose, and then towards heaven, our curiosity was
aroused, to know the meaning of what we had seen. The old chief told
us by signs, that they had been thanking the Great Spirit for allowing
them to see another day. We then purchased a few beaver {31} skins of
them, and left them. Our encampment for the evening of this day, was
near a small spring, at the head of which we found a great natural
curiosity. A rock sixteen yards in circumference, rises from eighty to
ninety feet in height, according to our best judgment, from a surface
upon which, in all directions, not the smallest particle of rock, not
even a pebble can be found. We were unable to reach the top of it,
although it was full of holes, in which the hawks and ravens built
their nests. We gave the spring the name of Rock Castle spring. On the
morning of the 9th, we left this spot, and at night reached the foot
of a large dividing ridge, which separates the waters of the Platte
from those of the Arkansas.[35] After completing our arrangements for
the night, some of us ascended to the top of the ridge, to look out for
Indians; but we saw none.
The succeeding morning we crossed the ridge, and came to water in the
evening, where we encamped. Here we killed a white bear,[36] which
occupied several of us at least an hour. It was constantly in chase of
one or another of us, thus withholding us from shooting at it, through
fear of wounding each other. This was the first, I had ever seen. His
claws were four inches long, and very sharp. He had killed a buffaloe
bull, eaten a part of it, and buried the remainder. When we came upon
him, he was watching the spot, where he had buried it, to keep off the
wolves, which literally surrounded him.
On the 11th, we travelled over some hilly ground. In the course of the
day, we killed three white bears, the claws of which I saved, they
being of considerable value among the Indians, who wear them around
the neck, as the distinguishing mark of a brave. Those Indians, who
wear this ornament, view those, who do not, as their inferiors. We came
to water, and encamped early. I was one of the guard for the night,
which was rather cloudy. About the middle of my guard, our horses
became uneasy, and in a few moments more, a bear had gotten in among
them, and sprung upon one of them. The others were so much alarmed,
that they burst their fastenings, and darted off at full speed. Our
camp was soon aroused, and {32} in arms, for defence, although much
confused, from not knowing what the enemy was, nor from what direction
to expect the attack. Some, however, immediately set off in pursuit of
our horses. I still stood at my post, in no little alarm, as I did not
know with the rest, if the Indians were around us or not. All around
was again stillness, the noise of those in pursuit of the horses being
lost in the distance. Suddenly my attention was arrested, as I gazed
in the direction, from which the alarm came, by a noise like that of
a struggle at no great distance from me. I espied a hulk, at which I
immediately fired. It was the bear devouring a horse, still alive. My
shot wounded him. The report of my gun, together with the noise made by
the enraged bear, brought our men from the camp, where they awaited a
second attack from the unknown enemy in perfect stillness.--Determined
to avenge themselves, they now sallied forth, although it was so dark,
that an object ten steps in advance could not be seen. The growls of
the bear, as he tore up the ground around him with his claws, attracted
all in his direction. Some of the men came so near, that the animal
saw them, and made towards them. They all fired at him, but did not
touch him. All now fled from the furious animal, as he seemed intent
on destroying them. In this general flight one of the men was caught.
As he screamed out in his agony, I, happening to have reloaded my gun,
ran up to relieve him. Reaching the spot in an instant, I placed the
muzzle of my gun against the bear, and discharging it, killed him. Our
companion was literally torn in pieces. The flesh on his hip was torn
off, leaving the sinews bare, by the teeth of the bear. His side was
so wounded in three places, that his breath came through the openings;
his head was dreadfully bruised, and his jaw broken. His breath came
out from both sides of his windpipe, the animal in his fury having
placed his teeth and claws in every part of his body. No one could have
supposed, that there was the slightest possibility of his recovery,
through any human means. We remained in our encampment three days,
attending upon him, without seeing any change for the worse or better
in his situation. {33} He had desired us from the first to leave
him, as he considered his case as hopeless as ourselves did. We then
concluded to move from our encampment, leaving two men with him, to
each of whom we gave one dollar a day, for remaining to take care of
him, until he should die, and to bury him decently.
On the 14th we set off, taking, as we believed, a final leave of our
poor companion. Our feelings may be imagined, as we left this suffering
man to die in this savage region, unfriended and unpitied. We travelled
but a few miles before we came to a fine stream and some timber.
Concluding that this would be a better place for our unfortunate
companion, than the one where he was, we encamped with the intention of
sending back for him. We despatched men for him, and began to prepare a
shelter for him, should he arrive. This is a fork of Smoke Hill river,
which empties into the Platte.[37] We set traps, and caught eight
beavers, during the night. Our companions with the wounded man on a
litter, reached us about eight o'clock at night.
In the morning we had our painful task of leave taking to go through
again. We promised to wait for the two we left behind at the Arkansas
river. We travelled all day up this stream.--I counted, in the course
of the day, two hundred and twenty white bears. We killed eight, that
made an attack upon us; the claws of which I saved. Leaving the stream
in the evening we encamped on the plain. A guard of twenty was relieved
through the night, to prevent the bears from coming in upon us. Two
tried to do it and were killed.
In the morning we began our march as usual: returning to the stream,
we travelled until we came to its head.[38] The fountain, which is its
source, boils up from the plain, forming a basin two hundred yards in
circumference, as clear as crystal, about five feet in depth. Here we
killed some wild geese and ducks. After advancing some distance farther
we encamped for the night. Buffaloes were not so numerous, during this
day's journey, as they had been some time previous, owing, we judged,
to the great numbers of white bears.
{34} On the 17th we travelled until sunset, and encamped near water. On
the 18th we found no water, but saw great numbers of wild horses and
elk. The succeeding morning we set off before light, and encamped at 4
o'clock in the afternoon by a pond, the water of which was too brackish
to drink. On the 20th we found water to encamp by. In the course of
the day I killed two fat buffaloe cows. One of them had a calf, which
I thought I would try to catch alive. In order to do so, I concluded
it would be well to be free from any unnecessary incumbrances, and
accordingly laid aside my shot-pouch, gun and pistols. I expected it
would run, but instead of that, when I came within six or eight feet
of it, it turned around, and ran upon me, butting me like a ram, until
I was knocked flat upon my back. Every time I attempted to rise, it
laid me down again. At last I caught by one of its legs, and stabbed
it with my butcher knife, or I believe it would have butted me to
death. I made up my mind, that I would never attempt to catch another
buffaloe calf alive, and also, that I would not tell my companions what
a capsizing I had had, although my side did not feel any better for
the butting it had received. I packed on my horse as much meat as he
could carry, and set out for the camp, which I reached a little after
dark. My father was going in search of me, believing me either lost, or
killed. He had fired several guns, to let me know the direction of the
camp. We travelled steadily on the 21st, and encamped at night on a
small branch of the Arkansas. During the day, we had seen large droves
of buffaloes running in the same direction, in which we travelled, as
though they were pursued. We could, however, see nothing in pursuit.
They appeared in the same confusion all night. On the 22d, we marched
fast all day, the buffaloes still running before us. In the evening we
reached the main Arkansas, and encamped. The sky indicating rain, we
exerted ourselves, and succeeded in pitching our tents and kindling
fires, before the rain began to fall. Our meat was beginning to roast,
when we saw some Indians about half a mile distant, looking at us from
a hill. We immediately tied our {35} mules and horses. A few minutes
after, ten Indians approached us with their guns on their shoulders.
This open, undisguised approach made us less suspicious of them, than
we should otherwise have been. When they were within a proper distance,
they stopped, and called out _Amigo_, _Amigo_. One of our number
understood them, and answered _Amigo_, which is friend, when they came
up to us. They were Commanches,[39] and one of them was a chief. Our
interpreter understood and spoke their language quite well. The chief
seemed bold, and asked who was our captain? My father was pointed out
to him. He then asked us to go and encamp with him, saying that his
people and the whites were good friends. My father answered, that we
had encamped before we knew where they were, and that if we moved now,
we feared that the goods would be wet. The chief said, this was very
good; but that, as we now knew where his camp was, we must move to
it. To this my father returned, that if it did not rain next morning,
we would; but as before, that we did not wish to get the goods wet to
night. The chief then said, in a surly manner, 'you don't intend then
to move to my camp to night?' My father answered, 'No!' The chief said
he should, or he would come upon us with his men, kill us, and take
every thing we had. Upon this my father pushed the chief out of the
tent, telling him to send his men as soon as he pleased; that we would
kill them, as fast as they came. In reply the chief pointed his finger
to the spot, where the sun would be at eight o'clock the next morning,
and said, 'If you do not come to my camp, when the sun is there, I
will set all my warriors upon you.' He then ran off through the rain
to his own camp. We began, immediately, a kind of breastwork, made by
chopping off logs, and putting them together. Confidently expecting
an attack in the night, we tied our horses and mules in a sink hole
between us and the river. It was now dark. I do not think an eye was
closed in our camp that night; but the morning found us unmolested;
nor did we see any Indians, before the sun was at the point spoken
of. When it had reached it, an army of between six and eight hundred
mounted {36} Indians, with their faces painted as black as though they
had come from the infernal regions, armed with fuzees and spears and
shields appeared before us. Every thing had been done by the Indians to
render this show as intimidating as possible. We discharged a couple
of guns at them to show that we were not afraid, and were ready to
receive them. A part advanced towards us; but one alone, approaching
at full speed, threw down his bow and arrows, and sprang in among us,
saying in broken English 'Commanches no good, me Iotan, good man.'
He gave us to understand, that the Iotan nation was close at hand,
and would not let the Commanches hurt us, and then started back. The
Commanches fired some shots at us, but from such a distance, that we
did not return them. In less than half an hour, we heard a noise like
distant thunder. It became more and more distinct, until a band of
armed Indians, whom we conjectured to be Iotans,[40] became visible
in the distance. When they had drawn near, they reined up their horses
for a moment, and then rushed in between us and Commanches, who charged
upon the Iotans. The latter sustained the charge with firmness. The
discharge of their fire arms and the clashing of their different
weapons, together with their war-yell, and the shrieks of the wounded
and dying were fit accompaniments to the savage actors and scene. I do
not pretend to describe this deadly combat between two Indian nations;
but, as far as I could judge, the contest lasted fifteen minutes. I was
too deeply interested in watching the event, to note it particularly.
We wished to assist the Iotans, but could not distinguish them from
the mass, so closely were the parties engaged. We withheld our fire
through fear of injuring the Iotans, whom we considered our friends. It
was not long before we saw, to our great satisfaction, the Commanches
dismounted, which was the signal of their entire defeat. The Iotans
then left the Commanches, and returned to their women and children,
whom they had left some distance behind. They brought them to our camp,
and pitched their own tents all around us, except that of the chief,
which was placed in the centre with ours. A guard of warriors was then
posted around {37} the encampment, and an order given for the wounded
Iotans to be brought into the tent of the chief. There were ten, two
of whom died before night. A message was now sent to the chief of the
Commanches, in obedience to which he came to the Iotan chief. A council
then seemed to be held, and a peace was made, the terms of which were,
that the Iotan chief should pay the Commanche chief two horses for
every warrior, he had lost in the battle, over the number of Iotans
killed. We gave the Iotan chief goods to the amount of one hundred
dollars, which pleased him exceedingly. He expressed himself perfectly
satisfied with this recompense for the warriors he had lost in our
defence. The knowledge, that a party as large as ours was traversing
the country, had soon spread in all directions from the reports of
Indians, who had met with us, and we became to these savage tribes a
matter of interest, as a source of gain to be drawn from us by robbing,
kindness or trade.--Our movements were observed. The Commanches
determined to possess themselves of their object by force; and the
Iotans interfered in our defence, that they might thus gain their point
by extortion from friends.
Not a single Commanche was allowed to enter our camp, as arrangements
were making for the Iotans to trade with us. All, who had any beaver
skins, or dressed deer skins, were sent for. A guard was placed around
in a circle, inside of which the skins were thrown down. Each Indian
then inquired for the article he wanted. In this way we exchanged with
them butcher knives, paint, and powder and ball, for beaver and deer
skins, to the amount of fifteen hundred dollars, allowing them what we
considered the value of the skins.