VI. The Chateau

One of the most astounding features of the war is the way in which

the Germans, from the highest to the lowest, have given themselves

up to loot. In all previous wars between civilized countries anything in

the nature of loot has been checked with a stern hand, and there are

cases on record when a soldier has been shot for stealing a pair of

boots. But now the Crown Prince of the German Empire sends back

to his palaces all the loot that he can collect, on innumerable

transport waggons, amid the applause of his proud father's subjects.

He is of course carrying out the new gospel of the Fatherland that

everyone has a perfect right to whatever he is strong enough to take.

But some day that doctrine may spread from the exalted and sacred

circle in which it is now the guiding star to the "cannon fodder." Some

day the common people will have learnt the lesson which is being so

sedulously taught to them both by example and by precept, and then

the day of reckoning will have come.

Loot and destruction have always gone hand in hand. The private

soldier cannot carry loot, and it is one of the most primitive

instincts of animal nature to destroy rather than to leave that by

which others may profit. Even the pavement artist will destroy

his work rather than allow some poor wretch to sit beside his

pictures and collect an alms. And there is great joy in destroying

that which men are too coarse to appreciate, in feeling that

they have in their power that which, something tells them,

belongs to a refinement they cannot attain. That was the keynote

of the excesses of the French Revolution, for nothing

arouses the fury of the unclean so much as cleanliness, and a man

has been killed before now for daring to wash his hands. And it is this

elemental love of destroying that has raged through Belgium in the

last few months, for though destruction has been the policy of their

commanders, the German soldier has done it for love. No order could

ever comprehend the ingenious detail of much that we saw, for it bore

at every turn the marks of individuality. It is interesting to ponder on a

future Germany of which these men, or rather these wild beasts, will

be the sons. Germany has destroyed more than the cities of Belgium;

she has destroyed her own soul.

It is not in the ruined towns or the battered cathedrals of Belgium that

one sees most clearly the wholehearted way in which the German

soldiers have carried out the commands of their lord and made his

desires their own. Louvain, Termonde, Dinant, and a hundred other

towns have been uprooted by order. If you wish to see what the

German soldier can do for love, you have to visit the chateaux which

are dotted so thickly all over the Belgian countryside. Here he has

had a free hand, and the destruction he1 wrought had no political

object and served no mere utilitarian purpose. It was the work of pure

affection, and it showed Germany at her best. One would like to have

brought one of those chateaux over to England, to be kept for all time

as an example of German culture, that our children might turn from it

in horror, and that our country might be saved from the hypocrisy and

the selfishness of which this is the fruit.

Among our many good friends in Antwerp there were few whom we

valued more than the Baron d'O. He was always ready to undertake

any service for us, from the most difficult to the most trivial. A man of

birth and of fortune, he stood high in the service of the Belgian

Government, and he was often able to do much to facilitate our

arrangements with them. So when he asked us to take him out in one

of our cars to see the chateau of one of his greatest friends, we were

glad to be in a position to repay him in a small way for his kindness.

The chateau had been occupied by the Germans, who had now

retired--though only temporarily, alas!--and he was anxious to see

what damage had been done and to make arrangements for putting it

in order again if it should be possible.

A perfect autumn afternoon found us tearing southwards on the road

to Boom in Mrs. W.'s powerful Minerva. We were going to a point

rather close to the German lines, and our safety might depend on a

fast car and a cool hand on the wheel. We had both, for though the

hand was a lady's, its owner had earned the reputation of being the

most dangerous and the safest driver in Antwerp, and that is no mean

achievement. We called, as was our custom, at the Croix Rouge

stations we passed, and at one of them we were told that there were

some wounded in Termonde, and that, as the Germans were

attacking it, they were in great danger. So we turned off to the right,

and jolted for the next twenty minutes over a deplorable paved road.

The roar of artillery fire gradually grew louder and louder, and we

were soon watching an interesting little duel between the forts of

Termonde, under whose shelter we were creeping along, on the one

side, and the Germans on the other. The latter were endeavouring to

destroy one of the bridges which span the Scheldt at this point, one

for the railway and one for the road; but so far they had not

succeeded in hitting either. It was a week since our last visit to

Termonde, and it seemed even more desolate and forsaken than

before. The Germans had shelled it again, and most of the remaining

walls had been knocked down, so that the streets were blocked at

many points and the whole town was little more than a heap of bricks

and mortar. There was not a living creature to be seen, and even the

birds had gone. The only sound that broke the utter silence was the

shriek of the shells and the crash of their explosion. We were

constantly checked by piles of fallen debris, and from one street we

had to back the car out and go round by another way. At the end of a

long street of ruined houses, many bearing the inscription of some

braggart, "I did this," we found our wounded men. They were in a

monastery near the bridge at which the Germans were directing their

shells, several of which had already fallen into the building. There

had been four wounded men there, but two of them, badly hurt, were

so terrified at the bombardment that they had crawled away in the

night. The priest thought that they were probably dead. Think of the

poor wounded wretches, unable to stand, crawling away in the

darkness to find some spot where they could die in peace. Two

remained, and these we took with us on the car. The priest and the

two nuns, the sole occupants of the monastery, absolutely refused to

leave. They wished to protect the monastery from sacrilege, and in

that cause they held their lives of small account. I have often thought

of those gentle nuns and the fearless priest standing in the doorway

as our car moved away. I hope that it went well with them, and that

they did not stay at their post in vain.

By the bridge stood a company of Belgian soldiers, on guard in case,

under cover of the fire of their artillery, the Germans might attempt to

capture it. There was very little shelter for them, and it was positively

raining shells; but they had been told to hold the bridge, and they did

so until there was no longer a bridge to hold. It was as fine a piece of

quiet heroism as I shall ever see, and it was typical of the Belgian

soldier wherever we saw him. They never made any fuss about it,

they were always quiet and self-contained, and always cheerful. But if

they were given a position to hold, they held it. And that is the secret

of the wonderful losing battle they have fought across Belgium. Some

day they will advance and not retreat, and then I think that the Belgian

Army will astonish their opponents, and perhaps their friends too.

We were soon out of Termonde and on the open road again, to our

very great relief, and at the nearest dressing-station we handed over

our patients, who were not badly wounded, to the surgeon, who was

hard at work in a little cottage about a mile back along the road. We

drove on due east, and forty minutes later found ourselves at the

entrance of the lodge of our friend's house. It lay on the very edge of

the Belgian front, and would have been unapproachable had there

been any activity in this section of the line. Fortunately for us, the

Germans were concentrating their energies around Termonde, and

the mitrailleuse standing on the path amongst the trees at the end of

the garden seemed to have gone asleep. We turned the car in the

drive, and, in case things should happen, pointed its nose

homewards. That is always a wise precaution, for turning a car under

fire in a narrow road is one of the most trying experiences imaginable.

The coolest hand may fumble with the gears at such a moment, and it

is surprising how difficult it is to work them neatly when every second

may be a matter of life or death, when a stopped engine may settle

the fate of everyone in the car. It is foolish to take unnecessary risks,

and we left the car pointing the right way, with its engine running,

ready to start on the instant, while we went to have a look at the

house.

It was a large country-house standing in well-timbered grounds,

evidently the home of a man of wealth and taste. The front-door stood

wide open, as if inviting us to enter, and as we passed into the large

hall I could not help glancing at our friend's face to see what he was

thinking as the obvious destruction met us on the very threshold. So

thorough was it that it was impossible to believe that it had not been

carried out under definite orders. Chairs, sofas, settees lay scattered

about in every conceivable attitude, and in every case as far as I can

recollect minus legs and backs. In a small room at the end of the hall

a table had been overturned, and on the floor and around lay broken

glass, crockery, knives and forks, mixed up in utter confusion, while

the wall was freely splashed with ink. One fact was very striking and

very suggestive: none of the pictures had been defaced, and there

were many fine oil-paintings and engravings hanging on the walls of

the reception-rooms. After the destruction of the treasures of Louvain,

it is absurd to imagine that the controlling motive could have been any

reverence for works of art. The explanation was obvious enough. The

pictures were of value, and were the loot of some superior officer. A

large cabinet had evidently been smashed with the butt-end of a

musket, but the beautiful china it contained was intact. The grand

piano stood uninjured, presumably because it afforded entertainment.

The floor was thick with playing cards.

But it was upstairs that real chaos reigned. Every wardrobe and

receptacle had been burst open and the contents dragged out. Piles

of dresses and clothing of every kind lay heaped upon the floor, many

of them torn, as though the harsh note produced by the mere act of

tearing appealed to the passion for destruction which seemed to

animate these fighting men. In the housekeeper's room a sewing-

machine stood on the table, its needle threaded, and a strip of cloth in

position, waiting for the stitch it was destined never to receive. There

were many other things to which one cannot refer, but it would have

been better to have had one's house occupied by a crowd of wild

beasts than by these apostles of culture.

Our friend had said very little while we walked through the deserted

rooms in this splendid country-house in which he had so often stayed.

Inside the house he could not speak, and it was not until we got out

into the sunshine that he could relieve his overwrought feelings. Deep

and bitter were the curses which he poured upon those vandals; but I

stood beside him, and I did not hear half that he said, for my eyes

were fixed on the mitrailleuse standing on the garden path under the

trees. My fingers itched to pull the lever and to scatter withering death

among them. It slowly came into my mind how good it would be to kill

these defilers. I suppose that somewhere deep down in us there

remains an elemental lust for blood, and though in the protected lives

we live it rarely sees the light, when the bonds of civilization are

broken it rises up and dominates. And who shall say that it is not right?

There are things in Belgium for which blood alone can atone. Woe

to us if when our interests are satisfied we sheath the sword, and

forget the ruined homes, the murdered children of Belgium, the

desecrated altars of the God in whose name we fight! He has placed

the sword in our hands for vengeance, and not for peace.

I no longer wonder at the dogged courage of the Belgian soldiers, at

their steady disregard of their lives, when I think of the many such

pictures of wanton outrage which are burned into their memories, and

which can never be effaced so long as a single German remains in

their beloved land. I no longer wonder, but I do not cease to admire.

Let anyone who from the depths of an armchair at home thinks that I

have spoken too strongly, stimulate his imagination to the pitch of

visualizing the town in which he lives destroyed, his own house a

smoking heap, his wife profaned, his children murdered, and himself

ruined, for these are the things of which we know. Then, and then

only, will he be able to judge the bravery of the nation which,

preferring death to dishonour, has in all likelihood saved both France

and ourselves from sharing its terrible but glorious fate.

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