I have many other tombs left to mention. There are three, which are

sarcophagi, still complete, never open, and proving that the ancients

buried their dead even before Christianity prohibited the use of the

funeral pyre. Families had their choice between the two systems, and

burned neither men who had been struck by lightning (they thought the

bodies of such to be incorruptible), nor new-born infants who had not

yet cut their teeth. Thus it was that the remains of Diomed's youngest

children could not be found, while those of the elder ones were

preserved in a glass urn contained in a vase of lead.

A tomb that looks like a sentry-box, and stands as though on duty in

front of the Herculaneum gate, had, during the eruption, been the refuge

of a soldier, whose skeleton was found in it. Another

strangely-decorated monument forms a covered hemicycle turned toward the

south, fronting the sea, as though to offer a shelter for the fatigued

and heated passers-by. Another, of rounded shape, presents inside a

vault bestrewn with small flowers and decorated with bas-reliefs, one of

which represents a female laying a fillet on the bones of her child.

Other monuments are adorned with garlands. One of the least curious

contained the magnificent blue and white glass vase, of which I shall

have to speak further on. That of the priestess Mamia, ornamented with a

superb inscription, forms a large circular bench terminating in a lion's

claw. Visitors are fond of resting there to look out upon the landscape

and the sea. Let us not forget the funereal triclinium, a

simply-decorated dining-hall, where still are seen three beds of

masonry, used at the banquets given in honor of the dead. These feasts,

at which nothing was eaten but shell-fish (poor fare, remarks Juvenal),

were celebrated nine days after the death. Hence came their title,

_novendialia_. They were also called _silicernia_; and the guests

conversed at them about the exploits and benevolent deeds of the man who

had ceased to live. Polybius boasts greatly of these last honors paid to

illustrious citizens. Thence it was, he says, that Roman greatness took

its rise.

In fact, even at Pompeii, in this humble _campo santo_ of the little

city, we see at every step virtue rewarded after death by some

munificent act of the decurions. Sometimes it is a perpetual grant (a

favor difficult to obtain), indicated by the following letters:

H.M.H.N.S. (_hoc monumentum hæredes non sequitur_), insuring to them

the perpetual possession of their sepulchre, which could not be disposed

of by their heirs. Sometimes the space conceded was indicated upon the

tomb. For instance, we read in the sepulchre of the family of

Nistacidius: "A. Nistacidius Helenus, mayor of the suburb Augusto-Felix.

To Nistacidius Januarius and to Mesionia Satulla. Fifteen feet in depth,

fifteen feet in frontage."

This bench of the priestess Mamia and that of Aulus Vetius (a military

tribune and duumvir dispensing justice) were in like manner constructed,

with the consent of the people, upon the lands conceded by the

decurions. In fine--and this is the most singular feature--animals had

their monuments. This, at least, is what the guides will tell you, as

they point out a large tomb in a street of the suburbs. They call it the

_sepolcro dei bestiani_, because the skeletons of bulls were found in

it. The antiquaries rebel against this opinion. Some, upon the strength

of the carved masks, affirm that it was a burial place for actors;

others, observing that the inclosure walls shut in quite a spacious

temple, intimate that it was a cemetery for priests. For my part, I have

nothing to offer against the opinion of the guides. The Egyptians,

whose gods Rome adopted, interred the bull Apis magnificently. Animals

might, therefore, find burial in the noble suburb of Pompeii. As for the

lower classes, they slept their final sleep where they could; perhaps in

the common burial pit (_commune sepulcrum_), an ancient barbarism that

has been kept up until our times; perhaps in those public burial ranges

where one could purchase a simple niche (_olla_) for his urn. These

niches were sometimes humble and touching presents interchanged by poor

people.

And in this street, where death is so gay, so vain, so richly adorned,

where the monuments arose amid the foliage of trees perennially green,

which they had endeavored, but without success, to render serious and

sombre, where the mausolea are pavilions and dining-rooms, in which the

inscriptions recall whole narratives of life and even love affairs,

there stood spacious inns and sumptuous villas--for instance, those of

Arrius Diomed and Cicero. This Arrius Diomed was one of the freedmen of

Julia, and the mayor of the suburb. A rich citizen, but with a bad

heart, he left his wife and children to perish in his cellar, and fled

alone with one slave only, and all the silver that he could carry away.

He perished in front of his garden gate. May the earth press heavily

upon him!

His villa, which consisted of three stories, not placed one above the

other, but descending in terraces from the top of the hill, deserves a

visit or two. You will there see a pretty court surrounded with columns

and small rooms, one of which--of an elliptical shape and opening on a

garden, and lighted by the evening twilight, but shielded from the sun

by windows and by curtains, the glass panes and rings of which have been

found--is the pleasantest nook cleared out among these ruins. You will

also be shown the baths, the saloons, the bedchambers, the garden, a

host of small apartments brilliantly decorated, basins of marble, and

the cellar still intact, with amphoræ, inside of which were still a few

drops of wine not yet dried up, the place where lay the poor suffocated

family--seventeen skeletons surprised there together by death. The fine

ashes that stifled them having hardened with time, retain the print of a

young girl's bosom. It was this strange mould, which is now kept at the

museum, that inspired the _Arria Marcella_ of Theophile Gautier--that

author's masterpiece, perhaps, but at all events a masterpiece.

As for Cicero, get them to show you his villa, if you choose. You will

see absolutely nothing there, and it has been filled up again. Fine

paintings were found there previously, along with superb mosaics and a

rich collection of precious articles; but I shall not copy the

inventory. Was it really the house of Cicero? Who can say? Antiquaries

will have it so, and so be it, then! I do not deny that Cicero had a

country property at Pompeii, for he often mentions it in his letters;

but where it was, exactly, no one can demonstrate. He could have

descried it from Baiæ or Misenum, he somewhere writes, had he possessed

longer vision; but in such case he could also have seen the entire side

of Pompeii that looks toward the sea. Therefore, I put aside these

useless discussions and resume our methodical tour.

I have shown you the ancients in their public life; at the Forum and in

the street, in the temples and in the wine-shops, on the public

promenade and in the cemeteries. I shall now endeavor to come upon them

in their private life, and, for this end, to peep at them first in a

place which was a sort of intermediate point between the street and the

house. I mean the hot baths, or thermæ.

V.

THE THERMÆ.

THE HOT BATHS AT ROME.--THE THERMÆ OF STABIÆ.--A TILT AT SUN

DIALS.--A COMPLETE BATH, AS THE ANCIENTS CONSIDERED IT; THE

APARTMENTS, THE SLAVES, THE UNGUENTS, THE STRIGILLÆ.--A SAYING OF

THE EMPEROR HADRIAN.--THE BATHS FOR WOMEN.--THE READING ROOM.--THE

ROMAN NEWSPAPER.--THE HEATING APPARATUS.

The Romans were almost amphibious. They bathed themselves as often as

seven times per diem; and young people of style passed a portion of the

day, and often a part of the night, in the warm baths. Hence the

importance which these establishments assumed in ancient times. There

were eight hundred and fifty-six public baths at Rome, in the reign of

Augustus. Three thousand bathers could assemble in the thermæ of

Caracalla, which had sixteen hundred seats of marble or of porphyry. The

thermæ of Septimius Severus, situated in a park, covered a space of one

hundred thousand square feet, and comprised rooms of all kinds:

gymnasia, academic halls where poets read their verses aloud, arenas for

gladiators, and even theatres. Let us not forget that the Bull and the

Farnese Hercules, now so greatly admired at Naples, and the masterpieces

of the Vatican, the Torso at the Belvidere, and the Laocoon were found

at the baths.

These immense palatial structures were accessible to everybody. The

price of admission was a _quadrans_, and the _quadrans_ was the fourth

part of an _as_; the latter, in Cicero's time, was worth about one cent

and two mills. Even this charge was afterward abolished. At daybreak,

the sound of a bell announced the opening of the baths. The rich went

there particularly between the middle of the day and sunset; the

dissipated went after supper, in defiance of the prescribed rules of

health. I learn from Juvenal, however, that they sometimes died of it.

Nevertheless, Nero remained at table from noon until midnight, after

which he took warm baths in winter and snow baths in summer.

In the earlier times of the republic there was a difference of hours for

the two sexes. The thermæ were monopolized alternately by the men and

the women, who never met there. Modesty was carried so far that the son

would not bathe with his father, nor even with his father-in-law. At a

later period, men and women, children and old folks, bathed pell-mell

together at the public baths, until the Emperor Hadrian, recognizing the

abuse, suppressed it.

Pompeii, or at least that portion of Pompeii which has been exhumed, had

two public bathing establishments. The most important of these, namely,

the Stabian baths, was very spacious, and contained all sorts of

apartments, side rooms, round and square basins, small ovens, galleries,

porticoes, etc., without counting a space for bodily exercises

(_palæstra_) where the young Pompeians went through their gymnastics.

This, it will be seen, was a complete water-cure establishment.

The most curious thing dug up out of these ruins is a Berosian sun-dial

marked with an Oscan inscription announcing that N. Atinius, son of

Marius the quæstor, had caused it to be executed, by order of the

decurions, with the funds resulting from the public fines. Sun-dials

were no rarity at Pompeii. They existed there in every shape and of

every price; among them was one elevated upon an Ionic column of

_cipollino_ marble. These primitive time-pieces were frequently offered

by the Roman magistrates for the adornment of the monuments, a fact that

greatly displeased a certain parasite whom Plautus describes:

"May the gods exterminate the man who first invented the hours!" he

exclaims, "who first placed a sun-dial in this city! the traitor who has

cut the day in pieces for my ill-luck! In my childhood there was no

other time-piece than the stomach; and that is the best of them all, the

most accurate in giving notice, unless, indeed, there be nothing to eat.

But, nowadays, although the side-board be full, nothing is served up

until it shall please the sun. Thus, since the town has become full of

sun-dials, you see nearly everybody crawling about, half starved and

emaciated."

The other thermæ of Pompeii are much smaller, but better adorned, and,

above all, in better preservation. Would you like to take a full bath

there in the antique style? You enter now by a small door in the rear,

and traverse a corridor where five hundred lamps were found--a striking

proof that the Pompeians passed at least a portion of the night at the

baths. This corridor conducts you to the _apodyteres_ or _spoliatorium_,

the place where the bathers undress. At first blush you are rather

startled at the idea of taking off your clothes in an apartment with six

doors, but the ancients, who were better seasoned than we are, were not

afraid of currents of air. While a slave takes your clothing and your

sandals, and another, the _capsarius_, relieves you of your jewels,

which he will deposit in a neighboring office, look at the apartment;

the cornice ornamented with lyres and griffins, above which are ranges

of lamps; the arched ceiling forming a semicircle divided off in white

panels edged with red, and the white mosaic of the pavement bordered

with black. Here are stone benches to sit down upon, and pins fixed in

the walls, where the slave hangs up your white woollen toga and your

tunic. Above there is a skylight formed of a single very thick pane of

glass, and, firmly inclosed within an iron frame, which turns upon two

pivots. The glass is roughened on one side to prevent inquisitive people

from peeping into the hall where we are. On each side of the window some

reliefs, now greatly damaged, represent combats of giants.

Here you are, as nude as an antique statue. Were you a true Roman, you

would now step into an adjoining cabinet which was the anointing place

(_elæthesium_), where the anointing with oil was done, and, after that,

you will go and play tennis in the court, which was reached by a

corridor now walled up. The blue vault was studded with golden stars.

But you are not a true Roman; you have come hither simply to take a hot

or a cold bath. If a cold one, pass on into the small room that opens at

the end of the hall. It is the _frigidarium_.

This _frigidarium_ or _natatio_ is a circular room, which strikes you at

the outset by its excellent state of preservation. In the middle of it

is hollowed out a spacious round basin of white marble, four yards and a

half in diameter by about four feet in depth; it might serve

to-day--nothing is wanting but the water, says Overbeck. An inside

circular series of steps enabled the Pompeians to bathe in a sitting

posture. Four niches, prepared at the places where the angles would be

if the apartment were square, contained benches where the bathers

rested. The walls were painted yellow and adorned with green branches.

The frieze and pediment were red and decorated with white bas-reliefs.

The vault, which was blue and open overhead, was in the shape of a

truncated cone. It was clear, brilliant, and gay, like the antique life

itself.

Do you prefer a warm bath? Retrace your steps and, from the

_apodyteros_, where you left your clothing, pass into the _tepidarium_.

This hall, which is the richest of the bathing establishment, is paved

in white mosaic with black borders, the vault richly ornamented with

_stucature_ and white paintings standing forth from a red and blue

background. These reliefs in stucco represent cupids, chimeras,

dolphins, does pursued by lions, etc. The red walls are adorned with

closets, perhaps intended for the linen of the bathers, over which

jutted a cornice supported by Atlases or Telamons in baked clay covered

with stucco. A pretty border frame formed of arabesques separates the

cornice from the vault. A large window at the extremity flanked by two

figures in stucco lighted up the tepidarium, while subterranean conduits

and a large brazier of bronze retained for it that lukewarm (_tepida_)

temperature which gave it the peculiar name.

[Illustration: The Tepidarium, at the Baths.]

This bronze brazier is still in existence, along with three benches of

the same metal found in the same place; an inscription--_M. Nigidius

Vaccula P.S._ (_pecuniâ sua_)--designates to us the donor who punning on

his own name _Vaccula_, had caused a little cow to be carved upon the

brazier; and on the feet of the benches, the hoofs of that quiet animal.

The bottom of this precious heater formed a huge grating with bars of

bronze, upon which bricks were laid; upon these bricks extended a layer

of pumice-stones, and upon the pumice-stones the lighted coals.

What, then, was the use to which this handsome tepidarium was applied?

Its uses were manifold, as you will learn farther on, but, for the

moment, it is to prepare you, by a gentle warmth, for the temperature of

the stove that you are going to enter through a door which closed of

itself by its own weight, as the shape of the hinges indicates.

This caldarium is a long room at the ends of which rises, on one side,

something like the parapet of a well, and on the other a square basin.

The middle of the room is the stove, properly speaking. The steam did

not circulate in pipes, but exhaled from the wall itself and from the

hollow ceiling in warm emanations. The adornments of the walls consisted

of simple flutings. The square basin (_alveus_ or _baptisterium_) which

served for the warm baths was of marble. It was ascended by three steps

and descended on the inside by an interior bench upon which ten bathers

could sit together. Finally, on the other side of the room, in a

semi-circular niche, rose the well parapet of which I spoke; it was a

_labrum_, constructed with the public funds. An inscription informs us

that it cost seven hundred and fifty sestertii, that is to say,

something over thirty dollars. Yet this _labrum_ is a large marble

vessel seven feet in diameter. Marble has grown dearer since then.

On quitting the stove, or warm bath, the Pompeians wet their heads in

that large wash-basin, where tepid water which must, at that moment,

have seemed cold, leaped from a bronze pipe still visible. Others still

more courageous plunged into the icy water of the frigidarium, and came

out of it, they said, stronger and more supple in their limbs. I prefer

believing them to imitating them.

Have you had enough of it? Would you leave the heating room? You belong

to the slaves who are waiting for you, and will not let you go. You are

streaming with perspiration, and the _tractator_, armed with a

_strigilla_, or flesh brush, is there to rasp your body. You escape to

the tepidarium; but it is there that the most cruel operations await

you. You belong, as I remarked, to the slaves; one of them cuts your

nails, another plucks out your stray hair, and a third still seeks to

press your body and rasp the skin with his brush, a fourth prepares the

most fearful frictions yet to ensue, while others deluge you with oils

and essences, and grease you with perfumed unguents. You asked just now

what was the use of the tepidarium; you now know, for you have been made

acquainted with the Roman baths.

A word in reference to the unguents with which you have just been

rubbed. They were of all kinds; you have seen the shops where they were

sold. They were perfumed with myrrh, spikenard, and cinnamon; there was

the Egyptian unguent for the feet and legs, the Phœnician for the

cheeks and the breast, and the Sisymbrian for the two arms; the essence

of marjoram for the eyebrows and the hair, and that of wild thyme for

the nape of the neck and the knees. These unguents were very dear, but

they kept up youth and health.

"How have you managed to preserve yourself so long and so well?" asked

Augustus of Pollio.

"With wine inside, and oil outside," responded the old man.

As for the utensils of the baths (a collection of them is still

preserved at the Naples museum on an iron ring), they consisted first of

the strigilla, then of the little bottle or vial of oil, and a sort of

stove called the _scaphium_. All these, along with the slippers, the

apron, and the purse, composed the baggage that one took with him to the

baths.

The most curious of these instruments was the strigilla or scraper, bent

like a sickle and hollowed in a sort of channel. With this the slave

_curried_ the bather's body. The poor people of that country who bathed

in the time of the Romans--they have not kept up the custom--and who had

no strigillarii at their service, rubbed themselves against the wall.

One day the Emperor Hadrian seeing one of his veterans thus engaged,

gave him money and slaves to strigillate him. A few days afterward, the

Emperor, going to the baths, saw a throng of paupers who, whenever they

caught sight of him, began to rub vigorously against the wall. He merely

said: "Rub yourselves against each other!"

There were other apartments adjoining those that I have designated, and

very similar to them, only simpler and not so well furnished. These

modest baths served for the slaves, think some, and for the women,

according to others. The latter opinion I think, lacks gallantry. In

front of this edifice, at the principal entrance of the baths, opened a

tennis-court, surrounded with columns and flanked by a crypt and a

saloon. Many inscriptions covered the walls, among others the

announcement of a show with a hunt, awnings, and sprinklings of perfumed

water. It was there that the Pompeians assembled to hear the news

concerning the public shows and the rumors of the day. There they could

read the dispatches from Rome. This is no anachronism, good reader, for

newspapers were known to the ancients--see Leclerc's book--and they

were called the _diurnes_ or _daily doings_ of the Roman people;

diurnals and journals are two words belonging to the same family. Those

ancient newspapers were as good in their way as our own. They told about

actors who were hissed; about funeral ceremonies; of a rain of milk and

blood that fell during the consulate of M. Acilius and C. Porcius; of a

sea-serpent--but no, the sea-serpent is modern. Odd facts like the

following could be read in them. This took place twenty eight years

after Jesus Christ, and must have come to the Pompeians assembled in the

baths: "When Titus Sabinus was condemned, with his slaves, for having

been the friend of Germanicus, the dog of the former could not be got

away from the spot, but accompanied the prisoner to the place of

execution, uttering the most doleful howls in the presence of a crowd of

people. Some one threw him a piece of bread and he carried it to his

master's lips, and when the corpse was tossed into the Tiber, the dog

dashed after it, and strove to keep it on the surface, so that people

came from all directions to admire the animal's devotion."

We are nowhere informed that the Roman journals were subjected to

government stamp and security for good behavior, but they were no more

free than those of France. Here is an anecdote reported by Dion on that

subject:

"It is well known," he says, "that an artist restored a large portico at

Rome which was threatening to fall, first by strengthening its

foundations at all points, so that it could not be displaced. He then

lined the walls with sheep's fleeces and thick mattresses, and, after

having attached ropes to the entire edifice, he succeeded, by dint of

manual force and the use of capstans, in giving it its former position.

But Tiberius, through jealousy, would not allow the name of this artist

to appear in the newspapers."

Now that you have been told a little concerning the ways of the Roman

people, you may quit the Thermæ, but not without easting a glance at the

heating apparatus visible in a small adjacent court. This you approach

by a long corridor, from the _apodytera_. There you find the

_hypocaust_, a spacious round fireplace which transmitted warm air

through lower conduits to the stove, and heated the two boilers built

into the masonry and supplied from a reservoir. From this reservoir the

water fell cold into the first boiler, which sent it lukewarm into the

second, and the latter, being closer to the fire, gave it forth at a

boiling temperature. A conduit carried the hot water of the second

boiler to the square basin of the calidarium and another conveyed the

tepid water of the first boiler to the large receptacle of the labrum.

In the fire-place was found a quantity of rosin which the Pompeians used

in kindling their fires. Such were the Thermæ of a small Roman city.

VI.

THE DWELLINGS.

PARATUS AND PANSA.--THE ATRIUM AND THE PERISTYLE.--THE DWELLING

REFURBISHED AND REPEOPLED.--THE SLAVES, THE KITCHEN, AND THE

TABLE.--THE MORNING OCCUPATIONS OF A POMPEIAN.--THE TOILET OF A

POMPEIAN LADY.--A CITIZEN SUPPER: THE COURSES, THE GUESTS.--THE

HOMES OF THE POOR, AND THE PALACES OF ROME.

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