CHAPTER XXXII. THE WARTBURG AND EISENACH.

I left Cassel with a heart far heavier than I had brought into it some

weeks before. The poor fellow, whose remains I followed to the grave,

was ever in my thoughts, and all our pleasant rambles and our familiar

intercourse, were now shadowed over by the gloom of his sad destiny. So

must it ever be. He who seeks the happiness of his life upon the world’s

highways, must learn to carry, as best he may, the weary load of trouble

that “flesh is heir to.” There must be storm for sunshine; and for the

bright days and warm airs of summer, he must feel the lowering skies and

cutting winds of winter.

I set out on foot, muttering as I went, the lines of poor Marguerite’s

song, which my own depression had brought to memory.

“Mein Ruh ist hin. Mein Hers ist schwer; Ich finde sie nimmer--und,

nimmer mehr.”

The words recalled the Faust--the Faust, the Brocken, and so I thought I

could not do better than set out thither. I was already within three

days’ march of the Hartz, and besides, I should like to see Göttingen

once more, and have a peep at my old friends there.

It was only as I reached Münden to breakfast, that I remembered it was

Sunday, and so when I had finished my meal, I joined my host and his

household to church. What a simplicity is there in the whole

Protestantism of Germany--how striking is the contrast between the

unpretending features of the Reformed, and the gorgeous splendour of the

Roman Catholic Church. The benches of oak, on which were seated the

congregation, made no distinctions of class and rank. The little village

authorities were mingled with the mere peasants--the Pastor’s family sat

nearest to the reading-desk--that, was the only place distinguished from

the others. The building, like most of its era, was plain and un-

ornamented--some passages from Scripture were written on the walls, in

different places, but these were its only decoration. As I sat, awaiting

the commencement of the service, I could not avoid being struck by the

marked difference of feature, observable in Protestant, from what we see

in Roman Catholic communities--not depending upon nationality, for

Germany itself is an illustration in point. The gorgeous ceremonial of

the Romish Church--its venerable architecture--its prestige of

antiquity--its pealing organ, and its incense--all contribute to a

certain exaltation of mind, a fervour of sentiment, that may readily be

mistaken for true religious feeling. These things, connected and bound

up with the most awful and impressive thoughts the mind of man is

capable of, cannot fail to impress upon the features of the worshippers,

an expression of profound, heartfelt adoration, which poetizes the most

commonplace, and elevates the tone of even the most vulgar faces. Retsch

had not to go far for those figures of intense devotional character his

works abound in--every chapel contained innumerable studies for his

pencil. The features of the Protestant worshippers were calm, even to

sternness--the eyes, not bent upon some great picture, or some holy

relic, with wondering admiration, were downcast in meditation deep, or

raised to heaven with thoughts already there. There was a holy and a

solemn awe in every face, as though in the presence of _Him_, and in

_His_ Temple, the passions and warm feelings of man were an unclean

offering; that to understand His truths, and to apply His counsels, a

pure heart and a clear understanding were necessary--and these they

brought. To look on their cold and stedfast faces, you would say that

Luther’s own spirit--his very temperament, had descended to his

followers. There was the same energy of character--the indomitable

courage--the perseverance, no obstacle could thwart--the determination,

no opposition could shake. The massive head, square and strong--the

broad, bold forehead--the full eye--the wide nostril, and the thick lip-

-at once the indication of energy, of passion, and of power, are seen

throughout Saxony as the types of national features.

The service of the Lutheran church is most simple, and like that of our

Presbyterians at home, consists in a hymn, a portion of Scripture read

out, and--what is considered the greatest point of all--a sermon, half

prayer, half dissertation, which concludes the whole. Even when the

Pastors are eloquent men, which they rarely are, I doubt much if German

be a language well suited for pulpit oratory. There is an eternal

involution of phrase, a complexity in the expression of even simple

matters, which would for ever prevent those bold imaginative flights by

which Bossuet and Massillon appealed to the hearts and minds of their

hearers. Were a German to attempt this, his mysticism--the “maladie du

pays”--would at once interfere, and render him unintelligible. The

pulpit eloquence of Germany, so far as I have experience of it, more

closely resembles the style of the preachers of the seventeenth century,

when familiar illustrations were employed to convey such truths as rose

above the humble level of ordinary intellects; having much of the

grotesque quaintness our own Latimer possessed, without, unhappily, the

warm glow of his rich imagination, or the brilliant splendour of his

descriptive talent. Still the forcible earnestness, and the strong

energy of conviction, are to be found in the German pulpit, and these

also may be the heirlooms of “the Doctor.” as the Saxons love to call

the great reformer.

Some thoughts like these suggested a visit to the Wartburg, the scene of

Luther’s captivity--for such, although devised with friendly intent, his

residence there was; and so abandoning the Brocken, for the “nonce,” I

started for Eisenach.

As you approach the town of Eisenach--for I’m not going to weary you

with the whole road,--you come upon a little glen in the forest, the

“Thuringer Wald,” where the road is completely overshadowed, and even at

noonday, is almost like night. A little well, bubbling in a basin of

rock, stands at the road-side, where an iron ladle, chained to the

stone, and a rude bench, proclaim that so much of thought has been

bestowed on the wayfarer. As you rest from the heat and fatigue of the

day, upon that humble seat, you may not know that Martin Luther himself

sat on that very bench, tired and wayworn, as he came back from Worms,

where, braving the power of king and kaiser, he had gone manfully to

defend his opinions, and assert the doctrines of the Reformation.

It was there he lay down to sleep--a sleep I would dare to say; not the

less tranquil, because the excommunication of Rome had been fulminated

over his head. He was alone. He had refused every offer of

companionship, which zeal for the cause and personal friendship had

prompted, when suddenly he was aroused by the tramp of armed men, and

the heavy clattering of horses, coming up the glen. He knew his life was

sought for by his enemies, and what a grateful deed his assassination

would be to record within the halls of many a kingly palace. In an

instant, he was on his legs, and grasping his trusty broad-sword, he

awaited the attack. Not too soon, however, for scarcely had the horsemen

come within sight, than, putting spurs to their steeds, they bore down

upon him; then checking their horses suddenly, the leader called aloud

to him, to surrender himself his prisoner.

Good Martin’s reply was a stroke of his broad-sword that brought the

summoner from his saddle to the ground. Parley was at an end now, and

they rushed on him at once. Still, it was clear that their wish was not

to kill him, which from their numbers and superior equipment, could not

have been difficult. But Luther’s love of liberty was as great as his

love of life, and he laid about him like one who would sell either as

dearly as he could. At length, pressed by his enemies on every side, his

sword broke near the hut, he threw the useless fragment from his hand,

and called out, “Ich kann nicht mehr!”--“I can do no more!”

He was now bound with cords, and his eyes bandaged, conveyed to the

castle of the Wartburg, about two miles distant, nor did he know for

several days after, that the whole was a device of his friend and

protector, the Elector of Saxony, who wished to give currency to the

story, that Luther’s capture was a real one, and the Wartburg his

prison, and not, as it really proved, his asylum. Here he spent nearly a

year, occupied in the translation of the Bible, and occasionally

preaching in the small chapel of the “Schloss.” His strange fancies of

combats with the evil one, are among the traditions of the place, and

the torn plaster of the wall is pointed out as the spot where he hurled

his inkstand at the fiend, who tormented him in the shape of a large

blue-bottle fly.

One cannot see, unmoved, that rude chamber, with its simple furniture of

massive oak, where the great monk meditated those tremendous truths that

were to shake thrones and dynasties, and awake the world from the

charmed sleep of superstition, in which, for centuries, it lay buried.

The force of his strong nature, his enthusiasm, and a kind of savage

energy he possessed, frequently overbalanced his reason, and he gave way

to wild rantings and ravings, which often followed on the longest

efforts of his mental labour, and seemed like the outpourings of an

overcharged intellect. The zeal with which he prosecuted his great task,

was something almost miraculous--often for thirty, or even forty, hours,

did he remain at the desk without food or rest, and then such was his

exhaustion, bodily as well as mental, that he would fall senseless on

the floor, and it required all the exertions of those about him to rally

him from these attacks. His first sensations on recovering, were ever

those of a deadly struggle with the evil one, by whose agency alone he

believed his great work was interrupted; and then the scene which

succeeded would display all the fearful workings of his diseased

imagination. From these paroxysms, nothing seemed to awake him so

readily, as the presence of his friend Melancthon, whose mild nature and

angelic temperament were the exact opposites of his bold, impetuous

character. The sound of his voice alone would frequently calm him in his

wildest moments, and when the torrent of his thought ran onward with mad

speed, and shapes and images flitted before his disordered brain, and

earthly combats were mingled in his mind with more dreadful conflicts,

and that he burst forth into the violent excesses of his passion--then,

the soft breathings of Melancthon’s flute, would still the storm, and

lay the troubled waters of his soul--that rugged nature would yield even

to tears, and like a child, he would weep till slumber closed his eyes.

I lingered the entire day in the Wartburg--sometimes in the Rittersaal,

where suits of ancient and most curious armour are preserved; sometimes

in the chapel, where the rude desk is shown at which Luther lectured to

the household of the “Schloss.” Here, too, is a portrait of him, which

is alleged to be authentic. The features are such as we see in all his

pictures; the only difference I could perceive, was, that he is

represented with a moustache, which gives, what a Frenchman near me

called an “air brigand” to the stern massiveness of his features. This

circumstance, slight as it is, rather corroborates the authenticity of

the painting, for it is well known that during his residence at the

Wartburg, he wore his beard in this fashion, and to many retainers of

the castle, passed for a Ritter, or a knight confined for some crime

against the state.

With a farewell look at the old chamber, where stands his oaken chair

and table, I left the Schloss, and as night was falling descended

towards Eisenach--for a description of whose water-mills and windmills,

whose cloth factories and toy shops, I refer you to various and several

guide books--only begging to say, on my own account, that the “Reuten

Kranta” is a seemly inn, and the host a pleasant German of the old

school; that is, in other words, one whose present life is always about

twenty years in advance of his thoughts, and who, while he eats and

drinks in the now century, thinks and feels with that which is gone. The

latest event of which he had any cognizance, was the retreat from

Leipsic, when the French poured through the village for five days

without ceasing. All the great features of that memorable retreat,

however, were absorbed in his mind, by an incident which occurred to

himself, and at which, by the gravity of his manner in relating it, I

could not help laughing heartily.

When the commissariat arrived at Eisenach, to make arrangement for the

troops on their march, they allowed the inhabitants the option--a

pleasant one--of converting the billets, imposed upon them, for a

certain sum of money, in virtue of which, they obtained an exemption

from all intrusion on the part of men and officers, save those of the

rank of colonel and upwards; and in evidence, a great placard was

affixed to their door, setting forth the same, as a “general order,” Now

as it was agreed that only one officer should be accommodated at a time,

the privilege was worth paying for, particularly by our host of the “Rue

Garland,” whose larder was always stored with delicacies, and whose

cellar was famed for thirty miles round. He accordingly counted down his

reichs-thalers, gulden, and groschen--with a heavy heart it is true, but

to avert a heavier evil, and with his grand patent of immunity, hung out

upon his sign post, he gave himself no farther trouble about the war or

its chances. On the third evening of the retreat, however, a regiment of

the Chasseurs de la Garde, conspicuous by their green coats and white

facings, the invariable costume of the Emperor himself, entered the

town, and bivouacked in the little square. The colonel, a handsome

fellow of about five-and-thirty, or forty, looked about him sharply for

a moment or two, irresolute where he should fix his resting-place; when

a savoury odour of sausages frying in the “Reuten Krantz,” quickly

decided his choice. He entered at once, and making his bow to mine host,

with that admirable mixture of deference and command a Frenchman can

always assume, ordered his dinner to be got ready, and a bed prepared

for him.

It was well worth the host’s while to stand on good terms with the

officers of rank, who could repress, or wink, at the liberties of the

men, as occasion served, and so the “Rue Garland” did its utmost that

day to surpass itself.

“Je dois vous prévenir,” said the colonel, laughing as he strolled from

the door, after giving his directions, “Je dois vous prévenir, que je

mange bien, et beaucoup.”

“Monsieur shall be content,” said the host, with a tap on his own

stomach, as though to say,--“The nourishment that has sufficed for this,

may well content such a carcass as thine--”

“And as for wine--continued the colonel.

“Zum kissen!” cried the host, with a smack of his lips, that could be

heard over the whole Platz, and which made a poor captain’s mouth water,

who guessed the allusion.

I shall not detail for my reader, though I most certainly heard myself

the long bill of fare, by which the Rue Branch intended to astonish the

weak nerves of the Frenchman, little suspecting, at the time, how mutual

the surprise was destined to be. I remember there was “fleisch” and

“braten” without end, and baked pike, and sausages, and boar’s head, and

eels, and potted mackerel, and brawn, and partridges; not to speak of

all the roots that ever gave indigestion since the flood, besides

sweetmeats and puddings, for whose genera and species it would take

Buffon and Cuvier to invent a classification. As I heard the formidable

enumeration, I could not help expressing my surprise at the extent of

preparations, so manifestly disproportionate to the amount of the

company; but the host soon satisfied me on this head, by saying, “that

they were obliged to have an immense supply of cold viands always ready

to sell to the other officers throughout the town, whom,” he added in a

sly whisper, “they soon contrived to make pay for the heavy ransom

imposed on themselves.” The display, therefore, which did such credit to

his hospitality, was made with little prospect of injuring his pocket--a

pleasant secret, if it only were practicable.

The hour of dinner arrived at last, and the Colonel, punctual to the

moment, entered the salon, which looked out by a window on the Platz--a

strange contrast, to be sure, for his eyes; the great side-board loaded

with luscious fare, and covered by an atmosphere of savoury smoke; and

the meagre bivouack without, where groups of officers sat, eating their

simple rations, and passing their goblets of washy beer from hand to

hand.

Rouchefoucauld says, “There is always something pleasant in the

misfortunes of our best friends;” and as I suppose he knew his

countrymen, I conclude that the Colonel arranged his napkin on his knee

with a high sense of enjoyment for the little panorama which met his

eyes on the Platz.

It must certainly have been a goodly sight, and somewhat of a surprise

besides, for an old campaigner to see the table groaning under its

display of good things; amid which, like Lombardy poplars in a Flemish

landscape, the tall and taper necks of various flasks shot up--some

frosted with an icy crest, some cobwebbed with the touch of time.

Ladling the potage from a great silver tureen of antique mould, the host

stood beside the Colonel’s chair, enjoying--as only a host can enjoy--

the mingled delight and admiration of his guest; and now the work began

in right earnest. What an admirable soup, and what a glass of

“Niederthaler”--no hock was ever like it; and those pâtés--they were “en

bechamelle.” “He was sorry they were not oysters, but the Chablis, he

could vouch for.” And well he might; such a glass of wine might console

the Emperor for Leipsic.

“How did you say the trout was fried, my friend?”

“In mushroom gravy, dashed with anchovy.”

“Another slice, if you’ll permit me,” pop! “That flask has burst its

bonds in time; I was wishing to taste your ‘OEil de Perdrix.’”

The outposts were driven in by this time, and the heavy guns of the

engagement were brought down; in other words, the braten, a goodly dish

of veal, garnished with every incongruity the mind of man could muster,

entered; which, while the host carved at the side-board, the Colonel

devoured in his imagination, comforting himself the while by a salmi of

partridges with truffles.

Some invaluable condiment had, however, been forgotten with the veal,

and the host bustled out of the room in search of it. The door had not

well closed, when the Colonel dashed out a goblet of Champagne, and

drank it at a draught; then, springing from the window into the Platz,

where already the shadow of evening was falling, was immediately

replaced by the Major, whose dress and general appearance were

sufficiently like his own to deceive any stranger.

Helping himself without loss of time to the salmi, he ate away, like one

whose appetite had suffered a sore trial from suspense.

The salmi gave place to the veal, and the veal to the baked pike; for so

it is, the stomach, in Germany, is a kind of human ark, wherein, though

there is little order in the procession, the animals enter whole and

entire. The host watched his guest’s performance, and was in ecstasies--

good things never did meet with more perfect appreciation; and as for

the wine, he drank it like a Swabian, whole goblets full at a draught.

At length, holding up an empty flask, he cried out “Champagne!” And away

trotted the fat man to his cellar, rather surprised, it is true, how

rapidly three flasks of his “Aï Mousseux” had disappeared.

This was now the critical moment, and with a half-sigh of regret, the

Major leaped into the street, and the first Captain relieved the guard.

Poor fellow, he was fearfully hungry, and helped himself to the first

dish before him, and drank from the bottle at his side, like one whose

stomach had long ceased to be pampered by delicacies.

“Du Heiliger!” cried the host to himself, as he stood behind his chair,

and surveyed the performance. “Du Heiliger! how he does eat, one

wouldn’t suppose he had been at it these fifty minutes; art ready for

the capon now?” continued he, as he removed the keel and floor timbers

of a saddle of mutton.

“The capon,” sighed the other; “Yes, the capon, now.” Alas! he knew that

delicious dish was reserved for his successor. And so it was; before the

host re-entered, the second Captain had filled his glass twice, and was

anxiously sitting in expectation of the capon.

Such a bird as it was!--a very sarcophagus of truffles--a mine of

delicious dainties of every clime and cuisine.

“Good--eh?”

“Delicious!” said the second Captain, filling a bumper, and handing it

to the host, while he clinked his own against it in friendly guise.

“A pleasant fellow, truly,” said the host, “and a social--but, Lord, how

he eats! There go the wings and the back! Himmel und Erde! if he isn’t

at the pasty now!”

“Wine!” cried the Frenchman, striking the table with the empty bottle,

“Wine.”

The host crossed himself, and went out in search of more liquor,

muttering as he shuffled along, “What would have become of me, if I

hadn’t paid the indemnity!”

The third Captain was at his post before the host got back, and whatever

the performance of his predecessors, it was nothing to his. The pasty

disappeared like magic, the fricandeau seemed to have melted away like

snow before the sun; while he drank, indiscriminately, Hock, Hermitage,

and Bordeaux, as though he were a camel, victualling himself for a three

weeks’ tramp in the desert.

The poor host now walked round the board, and surveyed the “débris” of

the feast, with a sad heart. Of all the joints which he hoped to have

seen cold on the shelves of his larder, some ruined fragments alone

remained. Here was the gable end of a turkey--there, the side wall of a

sirloin; on one side, the broken roof of a pasty; on the other, the bare

joists of a rib of beef. It was the Palmyra of things eatable, and a sad

and melancholy sight to gaze on.

“What comes next, good host?” cried the third Captain, as he wiped his

lips with his napkin.

“Next!” cried the host, in horror, “Hagel und regen! thou canst not eat

more, surely!”

“I don’t know that,” replied the other, “the air of these mountains

freshens the appetite--I might pick a little of something sweet.”

With a groan of misery, the poor host placed a plum pie before the all-

devouring stranger, and then, as if to see that no legerdemain was

practised, stationed himself directly in front, and watched every

morsel, as he put it into his mouth. No, the thing was all fair, he ate

like any one else, grinding his food and smacking his lips, like an

ordinary mortal. The host looked down on the floor, and beneath the

cloth of the table--what was that for? Did he suspect the stranger had a

tail?

“A glass of mulled claret with cloves!” said the frenchman, “and then

you may bring the dessert.”

“The Heavens be praised!” cried the host as he swept the last fragments

of the table into a wide tray, and left the room.

“Egad! I thought you had forgotten me altogether, Captain,” said a

stout, fat fellow, as he squeezed himself with difficulty through the

window, and took his seat at the table. This was the Quarter-master of

the Regiment, and celebrated for his appetite throughout the whole

brigade.

“Ach Gott! how he is swelled out!” was the first exclamation of the

host, as he re-entered the room; “and no wonder either, when one thinks

of what he has eaten.”

“How now, what’s this?” shouted the Quarter-master, as he saw the

dessert arranging on the table, “Sacré tonnerre! what’s all this?”

“The dessert--if you can eat it,” said the host, with a deep sigh.

“Eat it!--no--how the devil should I?”

“I thought not,” responded the other, submissively, “I thought not, even

a shark will get gorged at last!”

“Eh, what’s that you say?” replied the Quarter-master, roughly, “you

don’t expect a man to dine on figs and walnuts, or dried prunes and

olives, do you?”

“Dine!” shouted the host, “and have you not dined?”

“No, mille bombes, that I haven’t--as you shall soon see!”

“Alle Gute Geisten loben den Hernn!” said the host, blessing himself,

“An thou be’st the Satanus, I charge thee keep away!”

A shout of laughter from without, prevented the Quartermaster’s reply to

this exorcism being heard; while the trumpet sounded suddenly for “boot

and saddle.”

With a bottle of wine stuffed in each pocket, the Quartermaster rose

from table, and hurried away to join his companions, who had received

sudden orders to push forward towards Cassel, and as the bewildered host

stood at his window, while the regiment filed past, each officer saluted

him politely, as they cried out in turn, “Adieu, Monsieur! my

compliments to the braten”--“the turkey was delicious”--“the salmi

perfect”--“the capon glorious”--“the venison a chef-d’ouvre!” down to

the fat Quarter-master, who, as he raised a flask to his lips, and shook

his head reproachfully, said, “Ah! you old screw, nothing better than

nuts and raisins to give a hungry man for his dinner!” And so they

disappeared from the Platz, leaving mine host in a maze of doubt and

bewilderment, which it took many a day and night’s meditation to solve

to his own conviction.

Though I cannot promise myself that my reader will enjoy this story as

much as I did, I could almost vouch for his doing so, if he heard it

from the host of the “Reuten Krantz” himself, told with the staid

gravity of German manner, and all the impressive seriousness of one who

saw in the whole adventure, nothing ludicrous whatever, but only a most

unfair trick, that deserved the stocks, or the pillory.

He was indeed a character in his way, his whole life had only room for

three or four incidents, about, and around which, his thoughts revolved,

as on an axis, and whose impression was too vivid to admit of any

occurrence usurping their place. When a boy, he had been in the habit of

acting as guide to the “Wartburg” to his father’s guests--for they were

a generation of innkeepers, time out of mind, and even yet, he spoke of

those days with transport.

It was amusing, too, to hear him talk of Luther, as familiarly as though

he had known him personally, mentioning little anecdotes of his career,

and repeating his opinions as if they were things of yesterday; but

indeed his mind had little more perspective than a Chinese tea-tray--

everything stood beside its neighbour, without shadow, or relief of any

kind, and to hear him talk, you would say that Melancthon and Marshal

Macdonald might have been personal friends, and Martin Luther and Ney

passed an evening in the blue salon of the Reuten Krantz. As for

Eisenach and all about it, he knew as little as though it were a city of

Egypt. He _hoped_ there was a public library now--he _knew_ there was in

his father’s time, but the French used to make cartridges with the books

in many towns they passed through--perhaps they had done the same here.

These confounded French--they seemed some way to fill every avenue of

his brain--there was no inlet of his senses, without a French sentinel

on guard over it.

Now,--for my sins, I suppose,--it so chanced that I was laid up here for

several weeks, with a return of an old rheumatism I had contracted in

one of my wanderings. Books, they brought me, but alas! the only volumes

a German circulating library ever contains are translations of the very

worst French and English works. The weather was, for the most part,

rainy and broken, and even when my strength permitted me to venture into

the garden, I generally got soundly drenched before I reached the house

again. What insupportable ennui is that which inhabits the inn of a

little remote town, where come few travellers, and no news! What a

fearful blank in existence is such a place. Just think of sitting in the

little silent and sanded parlour, with its six hard chairs, and one

straight old sofa, upholstered with flock and fleas; counting over the

four prints in black wood frames, upon the walls. Scripture subjects,

where Judith, with a quilted petticoat and sabots, cuts the head off a

Holofernes in buckskins and top boots, and catches the blood in a soup

tureen; an Abraham with a horse pistol, is threatening a little Isaac in

jacket and trowsers, with a most villanous expression about the corners

of his eyes; and the old looking-glass, cracked in the middle, and

representing your face, in two hemispheres, with a nose and one eye to

each--the whole tinged with a verd antique colouring that makes you look

like a man in bronze.

Outside the door, but near enough for every purpose of annoyance, stands

a great hulking old clock, that ticks away incessantly--true type of

time that passes on its road whether you be sick or sorry, merry or

mournful. With what a burr the old fellow announces that he is going to

strike--it is like the asthmatic wheezing of some invalid, making an

exertion beyond his strength, and then, the heavy plod of sabots, back

and forward through the little hall, into the kitchen, and out again to

the stable yard; with the shrill yell of some drabbled wench, screaming

for “Johann” or “Jacob;” and all the little platitudes of the “ménage”

that reach you, seasoned from time to time by the coarse laughter of the

boors, or the squabbling sounds that issue streetwards, where some

vender of “schnaps” or “kirch-wasser” holds his tap.

What a dreary sensation comes over one, to think of the people who pass

their lives in such a place, with its poor little miserable interests

and occupations! and how one shudders at the bare idea of sinking down

to the level of such a stagnant pool--knowing the small notorieties, and

talking like them; and yet, with all this holy horror, how rapidly, and

insensibly, is such a change induced. Every day rubs off some former

prejudice, and induces some new habit, and, as the eye of the prisoner,

in his darksome dungeon, learns to distinguish each object clear, as if

in noon-day; so will the mind accommodate itself to the moral gloom of

such a cell as this, ay, and take a vivid interest in each slight event

that goes on there, as though he were to the “manner born.”

In a fortnight, or even less, I lay awake, conjecturing why the urchin

who brought the mail from Gotha, had not arrived;--before three weeks I

participated in the shock of the town, at the conduct of the Frow von

Bütterwick, who raised the price of Schenkin or Schweinfleisch, I forget

which--by some decimal of a farthing; and fully entered into the

distressed feelings of the inhabitants, who foretold a European war,

from the fact that a Prussian corporal with a pack on his shoulders, was

seen passing through the town, that morning, before day-break.

When I came to think over these things, I got into a grievous state of

alarm. “Another week, Arthur,” said I, “and thou art done for: Eisenach

may claim thee as its own; and the Grand Duke of------, Heaven forgive

me! but I forget the Potentate of the realm,--he may summon thee to his

counsels, as the Hoch Wohlgeborner und Gelehrter, Herr von O’Leary; and

thou may’st be found here some half century hence, with a pipe in thy

mouth, and thy hands in thy side pockets, discoursing fat consonants,

like any Saxon of them all. Run for it, man, run for it; away, with half

a leg, if need be; out of the kingdom with all haste; and if it be not

larger than its neighbours, a hop, step, and jump, ought to suffice for

it.”

Will any one tell me--I’ll wager they cannot--why it is, that if you

pass a week or a month, in any out-of-the-way place, and either from

sulk or sickness, lead a solitary kind of humdrum life; that when you

are about to take your leave, you find half the family in tears. Every

man, woman, and child, thinks it incumbent on them to sport a mourning

face. The host wipes his eye with the corner of the bill; the waiter

blows his nose in the napkin; the chambermaid holds up her apron; and

boots, with a side wipe of his blacking hand, leaves his countenance in

a very fit state for the application of the polishing brush. As for

yourself, the position is awkward beyond endurance.

That instant you feel sick of the whole household, from the cellar to

the garret. You had perilled your soul in damning them all in turn; and

now it comes out, that you are the “enfant chéri” of the establishment.

What a base, blackhearted fellow you must be all the time; in short, you

feel it; otherwise, why is your finger exploring so low in the recesses

of your purse. Confound it, you have been very harsh and hasty with the

good people, and they did their best after all.

Take up your abode at Mivart’s or the Clarendon; occupy for the six

months of winter, the suite of apartments at Crillons or Meurice; engage

the whole of the “Schwann” at Vienna; aye, or even the Grand Monarque,

at Aix; and I’ll wager my head, you go forth at the end of it, without

causing a sigh in the whole household. Don’t flatter yourself that

Mivart will stand blubbering over the bill, or Meurice be half choked

with his sobs. The Schwann doesn’t care a feather of his wing, and as

for the Grand Monarque, you might as well expect his prototype would

rise from the grave to embrace you. A civil grin, that half implies,

“You’ve been well plucked here,” is the extent of parting emotion, and a

tear couldn’t be had for the price of Tokay.

Well, I bid adieu to the Reuten Krantz, in a different sort of mood from

what I expected. I shook the old “Rue Branch” himself heartily by the

hand, and having distributed a circle of gratuities--for the sum total

of which I should have probably been maltreated by a London waiter--I

took my staff, and sallied forth towards Weimar, accompanied by a shower

of prayers and kind wishes, that, whether sincere or not, made me feel

happier the whole day after.

Arthur O'Leary: His Wanderings And Ponderings In Many Lands · 第 32 / 34 章