_Continuation of the descent.—Velocity of the rapids.—One of the
canoes is upset, and its contents carried over the falls.—Notices
of the vegetation and zoology.—Fork-tailed hawk.—A novel species
of lizard.—The Yellow Head’s failure in hunting.—Instinct
of the saw-billed duck in preserving its young.—The river
continues to exhibit a succession of rapids and plateaux, during
its passage through the alpine region.—Purity and frequency
of springs on its banks.—Influx of the Cano and Piniddiwin
rivers.—Notice of an inroad and murder committed by the Sioux
in former years.—A night descent.—Some of its incidents.—Reach
the junction of the east and west forks.—Return to Cass
Lake.—Observance of the Sabbath.—Missionary field of labor in the
northwest.—Superstitions and idolatry of the Indians.—Their name
for the Deity.—Its probable derivation._
We were in motion again a little before five o’clock, in the morning,
(14th.) The rapids continued. The branches of large trees often hung
so near to the water, that if we were not in peril of being entangled,
like the jewish rebel king, we were in a more continual danger of
having every moveable article swept from the canoes. An accident
occurred to one of the canoes, about six o’clock in the morning, which
might have had a fatal termination. My men had paused a few moments at
the head of a formidable rapid, to determine the best place of going
down it. Lieut. Allen, who, with his canoe, was behind at the moment,
soon came up. His bowsman caught hold of my canoe to check his own
velocity. It produced that effect, but the stern of his canoe swung
across the stream, so that the steersman caught hold of a branch to
prevent its being carried broadside over the rapid. Being thus rendered
tense between bank and bank, the velocity of the water poured over
the gunnel, and it was instantly reversed, with all its contents.
This whole occurrence could not have occupied half a minute. It was
impossible to render assistance, and Mr. Allen was hardly conscious
of the matter, till he found himself in the stream. With no little
exertion, he recovered himself, so as to be able to keep his feet,
against the pressure of the current. The water was breast high. The
canoe-compass was irrecoverably lost. He fetched up his fowling piece
himself. Other articles went over the falls.
The character of the stream, made this part of our route a most rapid
one. Willing or unwilling we were hurried on. But we had every reason
to desire rapidity. Less time was given to the examination of objects
than might otherwise have been devoted. Yet I am not aware that any
important object was neglected. Where there is much sameness in natural
features, frequent landings are unnecessary, and whoever has devoted
his time in going thus far up the Mississippi, will have made himself
so familiar with its plants, soil and productions, that “he who runs
may read.” The pine, in its varieties, is the prevailing tree; and
whenever we get out of the narrow alluvions of the valley, arenaceous
plains appear. Among the plants that border the river, the wild rose,
which is so conspicuous on all the streams northwest of Lake Superior,
is very often seen. The salix, so common to the lower Mississippi, and
so uniformly infested with mosquitoes, presents itself on the first
plateau, and is afterwards one of the constant shrubs on the savannahs.
The Indian reed first shews itself distinctly, about the mouth of the
Piniddiwin, and is here associated with wild rice. The stag and hind
appear to be the species of deer, which were most frequently seen, and
were several times fired at by the party, along this branch of the
river. We also observed the _falco furcatus_, or swallow tailed hawk,
a species not heretofore, thought to inhabit the continent, so far
north. A small animal of the amphibious kind was here brought to our
notice, under the name of _Ocaut Ekinabic_, or legged snake, a species
of lizard, striped blue, black, and white, with a disproportionate
length of tail. It is thus readily distinguished from ordinary species.
Its most striking peculiarity of habit, is its extreme activity and
swiftness of motion.
The Yellow Head landed, during the morning, to fire at a deer,
which was seen grazing on a meadow, at some distance. He approached
cautiously, but was unsuccessful in the shot he fired. What most
excited our surprise, was the rapidity with which he reloaded and
fired again, before the deer had got without the range of his shot.
This was effected without the use of wadding to separate the powder
from the ball. It did not, however, arrest the deer, who pursued
his flight. The Indian returned to his canoe with a look of marked
disappointment. Frequent opportunity was given in the course of the
day, for firing at the various species of water fowl which resort to
this stream. The saw-billed duck,[8] which is a common species, has an
art of protecting its young, which we had frequent opportunities of
observing. When the mother is surprised with a brood, she affects to
have a wing broken, and flaps awkwardly on the water, as if unable to
rise. By thus attracting notice to herself, the young, who are unable,
at this season, to fly, have an opportunity to screen themselves: and
the mother then boldly rises from the stream, and puts an end to the
pursuit.
The river continues to descend in steps. The second series of rapids
was followed by a second level, or plateau, in which the channel
assumes a width nearly, or quite, double to that which it presents on
the rapids. On this level, the Cano river comes in, as a tributary
on the right shore. The volume of water is perceptibly increased by
it. This plateau may extend nine miles. It is succeeded by rapids
of a milder character, below which the river again displays itself
in savannahs, with a comparatively wide, winding channel. These are
finally terminated by short and easy rapids, which bring the river
out of what, we may designate as its alpine passes. We landed for
the purpose of breakfast, on an open pine bank, (left shore,) near
the termination of the third plateau. Several beautifully clear and
cool springs were observed running from its base into the river. It
requires, indeed, but a bare recollection of observed facts, to make
it evident that the waters of both branches of the Mississippi, have
their origin in springs of bright and pure water. It may be farther
observed, that although the Upper Mississippi receives a number of
colored tributaries, all its larger rivers are pure, and it is itself
essentially a clear stream, when not in flood, as far as its junction
with the Missouri.
At four o’clock, we came to the junction of the Piniddiwin, a
tributary from the left, having its origin in a lake, and entering the
Mississippi amidst an extensive marsh of rice, reeds, and rushes, which
give it rather the appearance of a marsh than a lake. It is, however,
called _Lac la Folle_. This spot was estimated to be one hundred and
four miles below Itasca Lake. The name of the river employed above,
is an abbreviation of the phrase _Tah-pinuniddewin_, the place of
violent deaths, in allusion to an inroad and murder committed at this
place, in former times, by the Sioux. A party of this tribe, had
previously entrenched themselves on the river above, at a spot which
concealed their position and gave them command of the river channel.
After waiting here for a time, without success, they proceeded lower,
and discovered a Chippewa lodge, not far below the entrance of this
river. It was cautiously approached, assaulted, and all its inmates
killed, without distinction of age or sex. This event happened at an
early period. No persons are now living who were contemporary with the
victims. And it may be regarded as one of the occurrences which marked
the Chippewa conquest of this portion of the country.
About eighteen miles below the junction of the Piniddiwin, we debarked
for the purpose of cooking supper, and preparing our canoes for a
night descent, as the channel of the river was now sufficiently broad,
deep, and equable to justify it. An _Ocaut Ekinabic_, was killed at
this place. Lieut. Allen, wishing day light, to finish tracing the
river to its junction with the east fork, encamped here. By the time
we were ready to embark, clouds had overcast the moon, which afforded
a clear light before. But we trusted to our experienced guide, on a
part of the river familiar to him, and we had no cause to repent of our
confidence. Several shots were fired during the night at deer, standing
in the edge of the water. The men landed at one spot, and pursued
an animal, supposed to have been wounded. We found ourselves at the
junction, about half past one o’clock in the morning, (15th.) Having
given notices of our ascent of the river thus far, it is unnecessary
to add to them. We were borne along with the double force of current
and paddles, and with no care of topographical observation to delay
our progress. The night air became very damp and chilly. To defend
ourselves from it, we disposed of our travelling cloaks and blankets
in the best manner possible. Neither sleep nor rest were, however,
truly attainable, in a confined position where there was not room
enough to extend the body, and every limb was so hampered as to make
it impracticable to afford the relief of a change of position. Day
light broke upon us in our descent from Lac Travers, and we reached our
permanent encampment on the island in Cass Lake, at nine o’clock in the
morning. We had been eleven hours and a half in our canoes. Mr. Allen
did not rejoin us till four o’clock in the afternoon.
The day being the Sabbath, the Reverend Mr. Boutwell, devoted a part
of it, as he had done on the previous Sabbaths of our route, in giving
religious instruction. As three of the soldiers of the party were
christians, and two of our canoe-men could sing Indian hymns; singing,
both in English and in Indian, became practicable. Mr. Johnston’s
readiness in scripture translation, put it in the power of Mr. B. to
address them on the leading doctrines of the gospel. With what effects
these exhortations were listened to, on this, or on other occasions,
cannot be fully stated. Strict attention appeared to be paid by the
Indians, during these little forest meetings, which were generally held
under some spreading tree, or on the grassy area of some sheltered
glade, contiguous to the camp. Incredulity and bold cavilings, were
more observable, I think, at the most remote points of our route; and
most interest manifested in the subject, in the villages situated
nearest the frontier posts. Whatever were the results, it is to be
hoped that no circumstances will prevent Mr. B. from communicating his
observations to the christian public, at an early period.
The field for missionary labor, in all the region northwest of St.
Mary’s and Michilimackinac, is certainly a very extensive and important
one. And the incitements to its occupancy, at the present era, may be
said to be decidedly greater, than they have been at any time, since
the discovery of the country. No very strong barriers appear to stand
in the way of the introduction of christianity among the northern
tribes. Their institutions, moral and political, are so fragile, as to
be ready to tumble on the application of the slightest power. They are
not worshippers of the sun, or the moon. They have no list of imaginary
gods, of the horrid character, which belong to the idolatrous nations
of Asia and Africa. A Hindoo worshipper would hardly be able to impose
his tale of multiform incarnations, and transmigratory existence,
upon their belief. And a votary of Juggernaut, would verily be looked
on by them, as little better than a mad man. It is not, however, to
be inferred that because these gross forms of idolatry do not exist,
they have no idolatry at all. Their _medicinism_, is nothing more
nor less than a species of idolatry. They impute supernatural powers
to certain material substances, which are preserved and guarded with
religious care. These objects, which are often taken from the mineral
kingdom, are carried about in sacks, and are appealed to under every
form of solemnity, to perform cures, and to grant deliverances, which
would require a miracle. Their lesser _monedos_, of which the number
is endless, are expected to operate through these idol-medicines. And
although they do not bow down to them, nor appear to place an implicit
confidence in them, they remain in a state of mental alarm, which often
impels them to resort to their influence. Nothing is more common,
however, on conversing with them, than to find individuals, who are
ready to acknowledge, the insufficiency of these means, and who appear
to be prepared to abandon them, and embrace the doctrine of the Savior,
the moment the fear of popular opinion among _their own people_, can
be removed. No dead man has been deified by them, and they have not
a name or word in their language, so far as known, which represents
a god, but that of “Monedo.” This word, I am inclined to think, is
itself, a derivative from one of the forms of the active verb, Momo,
to take. But, like other Chippewa verbs, it is so buried and clogged
with adjuncts, in the nature of prefix and suffix, that it might often
require a Champollion to decipher it. And here, it may be observed,
that Indian verbs, have not only the active and passive forms, but
these forms are indicated by separate words. Thus, momo, verb active
to take. Odápin, verb passive, to take. Each verb has the animate and
inanimate forms. As most verbs are transitives, and their simplest
forms indicate the third person singular of the imperative mood, the
following conjugations of the verb, to take, result:
Momih, verb active, animate, take him.
Momon, verb active, inanimate, take it.
Odápin, verb passive, animate, take him.
Odapinun, verb passive, inanimate, take it.