_General arrangements for the route of the expedition on the waters
of the Upper Mississippi.—The width of this stream at Sandy Lake
ascertained.—Notices of the ascent from that point by the Falls
of Peckagama and Lake Winnipec, to Cass Lake.—Attack of a party
of Mandans on the Chippewas at Pembina.—The route of the
Bogottowa Lake.—Encamped at Winnipec House.—Inquiries respecting
the opposition trade, and the traffic in ardent spirits.—Reach
Cass Lake.—The width of the Mississippi, at its outlet.—Encamped
on an island in this lake.—Yellow Head’s town; its population and
hunting grounds.—Remarks on the Fur Trade.—North West, Hudson’s
Bay, and American Fur Companies.—Lord Selkirk’s triumph.—Murder
of Owen Keveny._
At Sandy Lake the expedition made its general arrangements for the
route. Most of the Indians at that post being absent, with their
principal Chief, on the plains near the junction of the Des Corbeau,
it was determined to assemble them at that point, so as to meet the
expedition on its return down the Mississippi, and to deposit at Sandy
Lake House, the presents intended for distribution to this band,
together with the supplies required for the home route. These were
placed in charge of a trusty person, with directions to proceed down
the river with them, to the Isle Des Corbeau, in season to meet the
party at that place on the 24th July. Relieved of this portion of the
burthen of transportation, it was then settled that the expedition
should go up the Mississippi, through all its windings, to Cass Lake;
there make a final deposit of the remainder of its heavy baggage,
and fit out a select exploring party, in light canoes, to ascend to
its actual source. This point fixed, the party would again descend
to Cass Lake, thence, cross the interior, by a route, represented
to be practicable, to Leech Lake, and from the latter, strike
south-westwardly, falling on a series of portages and lakes leading to
the head of the great Des Corbeau, or Crow Wing River. This river it
was proposed to follow down its entire length, to its entrance into the
Mississippi, the point fixed on, for assembling the Sandy Lake, Pine
River, and Mille Lac Indians.
In conformity with these arrangements, the party left Sandy Lake House,
on the afternoon of the 4th of July, having previously ascertained the
width of the Mississippi, at that place, to be 331 feet. The evening
of this day and the two following days, were employed in reaching
the vicinity of the Peckagama Falls, against a brisk current, with
occasional rapids. They made a portage on the 7th over the Granular
Quartz ridge, producing the Falls, and encamped the same evening at
Point aux Chenes, in the savannahs above. The next day, being the
Sabbath, was passed at that point. While there, a French _engagé_
arrived from Leech Lake, being on his way to Sandy Lake. Advantage was
taken of this opportunity, to send directions for the hastening the
meeting of the Indians at _Isle Des Corbeau_, by the space of two days,
as the waters were found even more favorable, than had been anticipated.
This man, whose name was La Plante, confirmed reports which had
been current at Fond du Lac and at Sandy Lake, of the going out of a
strong war party of the Leech Lake Indians against the Sioux. But he
added, that the party, which had been headed by the popular Chief,
Aishkibugikozh, or the Geulle Platte, had returned, bringing, as a
trophy of their victory, three Sioux scalps. He also reported the
attack of a hostile party of Indians, supposed to be Sioux, on the
outskirts of the Pembina settlement, where they scalped a girl, in
open day, but were pursued by a party of Chippewas, overtaken in the
act of crossing a stream, and lost several men. It was found, by
subsequent information, of an authentic character, that the attacking
party, on this occasion, were Mandans, and that it consisted of forty
men. They crossed the river Pembina, at the point of its junction
with Red River, on a raft, went down the latter about four miles, and
concealed themselves in the vicinity of a trading house, at which there
were several lodges of Chippewas. After waiting a definite time, and
finding no opportunity to effect their purpose, they resolved to return
to the raft at the crossing of the river, leaving a select party to
make a sally upon the Chippewas. This party met the girl, tore off
her scalp in haste, and fled to rejoin their companions at the raft.
But as the girl was not killed, the alarm was immediately given. Nine
Chippewas started in the pursuit. They overtook and fired upon the
Mandans, killing one man, and driving them in to their main party. The
latter, in the mean time, had tied their guns together and laid them
on the raft, preparatory to crossing. Being suddenly roused by the war
whoop, in their midst, and without arms, they plunged into the Pembina,
and swam across. During this effort, they were fired upon by their
pursuers, who killed two more of their number. One of these succeeded
in gaining the opposite bank, and was carried a short distance by his
companions before he expired. His body was left. The remainder of
the party pursued their flight. But they were without the means of
subsistence, for they had lost their arms. A new calamity overtook
them. The Sioux (who were also their enemies, as well as the enemies of
the Chippewas,) fell upon them, and, in their defenceless state, killed
thirty-six men. The survivor reached his people on the Missouri to
narrate the disaster.
The expedition pursued its way on the 9th. The ascent of this part
of the river, being through a series of savannahs, the guides availed
themselves of an intimate knowledge of the country, and the high state
of the water, to avoid numerous curves, which would have consumed much
time in coursing around, and led the way through extensive fields of
reeds and grass, assuming the character of semi-lakes. Not far above
Oak Point, a side route was taken, through a lake called the Bogottowa,
or _Lac a le Crosse_. This lake, which is a clear and pleasant sheet of
water of some ten miles in extent, receives a small but narrow creek
at its head, noted for its helices, which is ascended to a small lake
terminating a few hundred yards east of the Little Winnipec Lake of the
Mississippi. The portage is through a fine forest. By taking this route
the circuitous south bend of the Mississippi, at the entrance of the
Leech Lake branch, was avoided, and the better part of a day’s travel
saved. Day light was still undiminished, when the party reached the
minor trading post of Winnipec House, where they encamped.
The following queries were put to the Clerk in charge of this post,
respecting the opposition trade, and the traffic in ardent spirits.
1st. Do the Hudson’s Bay Clerks cross the American lines from the post
of Rainy Lake, for the purposes of trade? Ans. No. They furnish goods
to Indians who go trading into the American territories.
2d. Do the Partners, or Clerks of the Hudson’s Bay Company, present
flags and medals to Indians? Ans. Yes.
3d. Do they give such flags and medals to Indians living within the
American lines? Ans. No. I have heard that they took away an American
flag given to an Indian on the United States’ borders of Rainy Lake,
tore it, and burnt it, and gave him a British flag instead.
4th. Was the Hudson’s Bay Company’s post on Rainy Lake, supplied with
ardent spirits last season? (i. e. 1831 and 1832.) Ans. It was. They
had about sixty kegs of highwines, which were shewn to some of our
Indians, who went there, and Mr. Cameron, the person in charge of the
post, said to them, that although their streams were high, from the
melting of the snows, they should swim as high with liquor if the
Indians required it.
5th. What is the usual strength of the highwines? Ans. One keg is
reduced to four.
6th. Have the Indians sent on _derwin_ by the Hudson’s Bay Company,
approached near to your post? Ans. They have come very near—having been
on the Turtle Portage, with goods.
7th. Did they bring liquor thus far? Ans. No. The liquor is kept at
Rainy Lake, to induce the Indians to visit that place with their furs.
8th. Did the disposition made of the liquor, which the Secretary of War
permitted the principal Factor of the Fond du Lac Department, to take
in last year, (1831,) embrace the post of Winnipec? Ans. It did not.
It was kept chiefly at Rainy Lake, and on the lines, to be used in the
opposition trade.
Another trader, inquired of, in the country below, observed that five
Chiefs had been invested with medals and flags, by the British trader
at _Lac le Pluie_.
The party traversed Lake Winnipec on the morning of the 10th, and
entered and passed up the sand-hill bordered valley of the Mississippi,
to Cass Lake, the entrance to which they reached about one o’clock,
being eleven days earlier in the season than this lake had been
visited by the light canoes of Gov. Cass, twelve years previous. The
outlet of this lake, was ascertained to be 172 feet in width, with an
estimated depth of eight feet; being over half the width of the river,
immediately _below_ the inlet of the Sandy Lake branch.
At this point, being the _ultima Thule_ of previous discovery,
our narrative may assume a more personal character. The day was
characterised by the striking warmth of the month of July in this
latitude. The fore part of it had been spent in a diligent ascent
of the Mississippi from Lake Winnipec; and the party reached the
point of entrance, with a feeling of gratification, arising from the
accomplishment of one of its objects. We halted a few moments, to allow
the hindmost canoes to come up, so as to enter the Lake together. Oza
Windib, or the Yellow Head, our Chippewa guide, had preceded the party
a little, as he often did, to get the first glance of little bays and
inlets, where water fowl are usually found. He had put his canoe ashore
behind a small point, where he met a party of the Cass Lake band. Of
this he kept us ignorant till turning the same point, that he might
surprise us with an unexpected salute. The Indians then approached
in their canoes in a body, with a welcome, which could hardly have
been more cordial, had we been old friends. They represented their
residence to be on a large island, bearing south-west from the entrance.
And for this island we set forward, with every appliance. The Indians
accompanied us, imparting a spirit of emulation to the men, by shouts
and firing. In making this traverse, we left the mouth of Turtle river,
(the spot of Gov. Cass’ landing in 1820,) on our right, and did not
come near enough to the shore, distinctly to recognise its features.
We were upwards of an hour in reaching the island, which is called
Grand Island, or Colcaspi. On approaching it, a number of Indians
were observed, running across an elevation, and pointing, with wild
gestures, to a bay beyond. It was the best place of landing. They were
assiduous in directing the men to the spot. They ranged themselves
along the shore, fired a salute, and then came eagerly to the water’s
edge, giving each one a hand, as he alighted from the canoe. He, who
has formed his estimate of an Indian from the reading of books, in
which he is depicted as cruel and morose, without any insight into his
social character, need only to be ushered into a scene like this, to be
convinced that he has contemplated an overshadowed picture. We found
these Indians to be frank, cheerful, and confiding.
[Illustration: CASS LAKE
2978 miles above the Gulf of Mexico.]
On ascending the elevation before referred to, it was found to be the
site of an abandoned village, now covered partially with corn-fields,
and overgrown, in other parts, with sumac and other shrubbery. The
cutting down too much of the forest, and the consequent exposure to
winds, had probably been their reason for removing the village to
a more southerly and sheltered part of the island. An Indian town,
all America over, is nothing but an assemblage of wigwams, built,
exclusively to suit the particular convenience of the occupant, without
right angled streets, for which (as they have no carts or waggons)
they have no occasion, and they get thereby the additional advantage
of having no clouds of dust blown up from the denuded surface. There
is (as we should say) a public _square_, or rather, an open grassy
spot, where councils and dances are held, and the ceremonies of the
wabeno and medicine society performed. Hillocks and elevated grounds
are selected for erecting their lodges on; and clumps of small trees
and shrubs are sought. Large trees are avoided, for the simple reason,
that they often loose a limb during windy weather, and are liable to be
blown down by tempests. But the whole circular opening, constituting a
town plat, is surrounded with forest, to shelter them, in summer and
winter. Gardens are variously located, and generally without fences, as
there are no domesticated cattle. Such, at least, was the town of Oza
Windib, situated nearly a mile from the spot of our landing, to which
he was welcomed, on his return, by groups of men, women, and children.
The total population, as counted during our stay, was 157, and it does
not, probably, at any time, exceed 200 or 250. They rely, in the main,
on hunting for a subsistence, deriving considerable aid, as the season
shifts, from fishing, the gathering of wild rice, and the products of
small fields of corn and potatoes, cultivated by the women. We were
assured that the corn crop was always relied on, and that seed corn
is preserved from year to year, and has not been known to fail. About
sixty miles northwest, at Red Lake, corn is stated by the traders, to
be a profitable crop, and it is among the singularities of the fur
trade, that this article has, within a few of the last years, been
furnished in considerable quantity, from that lake, to the posts on the
Upper Mississippi, and even as far east as Fond du Lac.
The hunting grounds of Yellow Head’s band, embrace the extreme sources
of the Mississippi, and his village is the last fixed location in the
ascent. Part of them go to Lac Travers, and encamp there, for the
purpose of making the winter hunt. And from this point, they ascend
southerly, which carries them still further into the red deer and stag
and hind country of (the absolute head of the Mississippi,) Itasca
Lake. The furs and skins collected, are exchanged for goods with
traders, who visit them annually in the fall, and remain during the
winter. These goods are brought in canoes from Michilimackinac, an
estimated distance, as travelled, of 1120 miles. Of this distance there
are only 18¾ miles land carriage, separated into five portages, at
distant points.
We may observe in this singular facility of internal water
communication, one of the primary reasons of the heads of the
Mississippi, being supplied with Indian goods at first from Montreal,
and afterwards from New-York. Not only were these facilities early
found to exist, but it was the track of interior discovery, while
the Mississippi itself opposed an obstacle to the trade, by its
difficult navigation, and the unhealthiness of the climate of its lower
latitudes. Political considerations, also, entered into the earlier
arrangements. Indeed, whoever is curious to examine into this matter,
will find the history of the fur trade in north-western America, to be
intimately blended with the civil history of the country, for about
two hundred and fifty years after its discovery. Dating this discovery
from the arrival of Jaques Cartier in the gulf of St. Lawrence, in
1534, (the first well settled era,) the traffic then commenced with
the natives, and, soon assuming an engrossing character, may be traced
through various modifications, up to the surrender of the lake posts
to the American government in 1796. This momentous interval of two
hundred and sixty-two years, is fraught with incidents of a deeply
interesting character, which it will be sufficient here, to allude to.
Through every change of things the fur trade continued to be, not only
cherished, but formed one of the cardinal interests in the policy of
the government which France and Great Britain successively exercised
over this portion of North America. Under the French government the
system was intimately connected with military and with missionary
efforts, in a manner which was peculiar to that government. Licences
to trade were granted by the governor general to superannuated
officers, and other servants of the crown, by whom they were sold out
to enterprising individuals. These persons went inland to exchange
their goods for furs, and first drew upon themselves the epithet of
_Couriers du Bois_. Great irregularities, however, existed. Civil and
ecclesiastic power were alternately exerted to restrain them. And an
order to prohibit the traffic in the article of brandy was issued by
one of the French governors.
Under English rule, local agents were authorised, in the name of the
king, to oversee Indian affairs, grant licences, and exercise a general
supervision over the trade. Serious difficulties arose in acquiring the
confidence of the northern Indians after the fall of Quebec. But, after
an interruption of four or five years, (say from ’59 to ’64,) including
the period of Pontiac’s war, the trade gradually resumed its healthful
action. French enterprise had spread it through the region of Lake
Superior and the Upper Mississippi, to the banks of the Saskatchawine.
Scottish intrepidity carried it to the mouths of the Mackenzie, and the
Columbia.
The date of American authority in the lake country, may be placed
in 1796. It was, however, but feebly felt in its influence on the
northwest fur trade, for several years. Congress first legislated on
the subject in 1802, but four years afterwards Lieut. Pike, on reaching
the Upper Mississippi, found it in the exclusive possession of the
North West Company. The Indians were then as much attached to the
English, as they had been to the French, in 1759. It cost the British
crown the expenses of a war to gain this ascendancy, and the Americans
were not permitted to succeed them, as the sovereign power over Indian
territory, at a less hazard. The war of 1812, found all the northern
tribes confederated with the English. Tecumseh had risen to re-act the
part which Pontiac had failed to accomplish, fifty-two years before,
namely, driving back the infringing power. This happened, in 1759, to
be Great Britain; but in 1812, it was the United States. With less
sterling capacity to organise and command, however, than his great
predecessor had, and with the powerful resources of England to back
him, he utterly failed. It was not till after this failure, and the
re-establishment of American garrisons at Detroit and Michilimackinac,
that the Jeffersonian Indian code of 1802, began to be put into effect
in the north-west. In 1816, a law was passed by Congress to exclude
foreigners from the trade. In 1819 St. Peter’s was established. In
1820, Gov. Cass personally visited the tribes, and in 1822, a military
post was advanced to St. Mary’s Falls, the most northern point occupied
by the United States army.
Although the North West Company had now transferred to an American
company, organised by Mr. Astor, all their posts south and west
of the lines of demarcation, they maintained, however, an active
trade along the lines, and waged one of the most spirited and hard
contested oppositions against the Hudson’s Bay Company, which has ever
characterised a commercial rivalry. Lord Selkirk had now placed himself
at the head of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and staked his character and
resources on the maintenance of its territorial and commercial rights.
It is no part of our object to go into details. Let it suffice, that
he took Fort William on the 13th of August, 1816, carried his power
over the region of Red river, where he planted a colony, and, after
losing the lives of several of his most zealous agents and officers,
(including the governor of his colony,) finally triumphed in asserting
the rights of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and quieted, by an amalgamation
of stocks, the claims of his intrepid rivals.
One of the most painful atrocities which arose, in the course of this
rivalry, was the murder of Owen Keveny. As the facts were subsequently
detailed in a court of justice, they may be succinctly narrated. Mr.
Keveny, a gentleman in the service of the Hudson’s Bay Company, was
taken prisoner by the North West Company, in the summer of 1816; and
ordered to be sent out from Red river to Montreal. On ascending the
river Winnipec, (northwest of the Lake of the Woods,) he was finally
put in charge of a couple of _engagés_, named Faye and La Point, in a
canoe, with an Indian guide, called Joseph, Son-of-the-White-Pratridge,
with directions to take him to Rainy Lake. By these he was landed on
an island below the Dalles, where they slept. Next morning Keveny
complained of being ill, and asked Faye to bring him some warm water.
The latter, on coming to the beach, found that La Pointe, and the
Indian, had put out into the stream. On being called, they came ashore
and took in Faye, and all then went down the river together, abandoning
Keveny on the island. A few days afterwards one of the _engagés_ in
the canoe, quarrelled with the Indian, and the latter left them. They
then turned about and began to ascend the river, but, having lost their
guide, could not find their way, and soon encamped on a small island,
resolved to wait till some canoe should pass. Four or five days had
elapsed, when their expectations were answered, by the arrival of a
light canoe, with two partners of the North West Company, and Charles
de Reinhard, a clerk, and a _Boisbrulè_, named Mainville, besides the
Indian, Joseph, Son-of-the-White-Partridge, who had fled from Faye and
La Pointe, below. After a short halt, during which Mr. M‘Lellan, (a
partner of the North West Company,) beat the two men with a canoe-pole,
all embarked for Rainy Lake. The same day they met other canoes, from
which they learned, that Keveny, whose life had been threatened by de
Reinhard and others, had left the island, where he was first abandoned,
and gone up the river five or six leagues, to another island situated
above the Dalles. He was now the subject of engrossing interest and
conversation. On reaching this, they found Keveny, as expected. Mr.
Grant, one of the partners, landed, with others, and shook hands with
him. They then embarked, leaving de Reinhard, Mainville, and Joseph,
Son-of-the-White-Partridge, on the island with Keveny. After going two
or three leagues further up the river, they encamped. Some time after
landing, the report of a gun was heard in the direction they came from.
In half an hour’s time, a canoe came from the same direction, having
in it de Reinhard, Mainville, and Joseph, Son-of-the-White-Partridge.
It had much blood in it, together with the trunks, and clothes worn by
Keveny, but Keveny himself was not there. On examining the coat, there
was perceived to be a ball hole, and an incision, in different parts
of it. Keveny’s trunks were then landed, unlocked, and a division made
of his clothes, linen, and other effects. De Reinhard wiped the blood
from his sword, declaring in the hearing of the men, as if glorying in
the perpetration of the act, that he had killed him, and was entitled
to the best apparel, which he accordingly appropriated to himself.
Mainville took the perforated coat.
The facts of this foul deed appeared to be these. Keveny, with the
three persons left with him, by the Northwest partners, embarked in
a small Indian canoe, to ascend the river. He complained of being
unwell, and was landed at a certain spot. De Reinhard, Mainville, and
Joseph, waited at the beach. De Reinhard stood near the canoe as Keveny
re-embarked, and suddenly drawing a short sword, thrust it into his
body. Keveny doubled down under the blow, but being a tall and powerful
man, (although weakened by disease,) he recovered himself, seized the
blade of the sword, and would have wrenched it away and overpowered the
assassin, had he not called to Mainville to fire. The latter obeyed.
The ball passed through Keveny’s neck, and he instantly fell. It does
not seem that the Indian participated in the act. The body was stripped
and left on shore, unburied. Two years after (i. e. 1818,) De Reinhard,
who had, it seems, been a subaltern officer in one of the disbanded
foreign regiments, was tried for the murder at Quebec, proved guilty,
(by his own confessions to the men at the encampment,) and sentenced to
the gallows. Mainville escaped.