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Transcriber’s note:
Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
[Illustration:
_SKETCH OF THE SOURCES_
OF THE
MISSISSIPPI RIVER.
_Drawn from Lieuᵗ. Allen’s observations
in 1832, to illustrate_
SCHOOLCRAFT’S INLAND JOURNEY
TO ITASCA LAKE.
De Count & Hammond Sᶜ.]
NARRATIVE
OF AN
EXPEDITION
THROUGH THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI
TO ITASCA LAKE,
THE ACTUAL SOURCE OF THIS RIVER;
EMBRACING
AN EXPLORATORY TRIP THROUGH THE ST. CROIX
AND BURNTWOOD (OR BROULE) RIVERS;
IN 1832.
UNDER THE DIRECTION OF
HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT.
NEW-YORK:
PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS,
NO. 82 CLIFF-STREET.
1834.
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1833,
By HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT,
In the Clerk’s Office of the District of Michigan.
GEO. L. WHITNEY, Printer, Detroit.
TO GEN. HUGH BRADY,
OF THE UNITED STATES ARMY.
SIR:
In prefixing your name to this volume, I am reminded that, while
indulging the gratification of personal friendship, I am addressing
a soldier, who early entered the field of western warfare under the
veteran Wayne; and who, for a period of upwards of forty years, during
the changing circumstances of war and of peace, has ever been found
faithfully, bravely, and honorably serving his country.
With sentiments of respect,
HENRY ROWE SCHOOLCRAFT.
PREFACE.
The circumstances under which the present expedition was undertaken,
are indicated in the following extracts from the letters of instruction.
“_Detroit, Aug. 9, 1830._
“SIR: I have been directed by the War Department to request you
to proceed into the Chippewa country, to endeavor to put an end
to the hostilities between the Chippewas and Sioux. The general
route must be left to your discretion. Whether it will be necessary
for you to go beyond Fond du Lac, you can best determine on your
arrival there. From the limited means applicable to this object, I
am apprehensive that your journey cannot be extended beyond that
place. But in that event, it will be necessary to summon some of
the principal Mississippi Chiefs to meet you, as without their
concurrence no durable pacification can be effected.
“Your object will be to impress upon them, the necessity
of terminating their hostilities with the Sioux. And the
considerations connected with the subject are so familiar to you,
that I need not dwell upon them. You are perfectly acquainted with
their useless and harrowing contests, and the miseries these have
inflicted, and yet threaten to inflict upon them. But it will be
well to state to them the result of the recent council at Prairie
du Chien, that they may know what has been done by the other
Indians, and that the Sioux, now freed from the pressure in other
quarters, can direct their whole force against them.
“In addition to the other considerations you may urge, I enclose a
speech to be delivered to them, which you will please to accompany
with a proper belt. I think it will be best for them to send a
message to the Sioux without delay, stating their determination to
refrain from hostilities in conformity with the wish of their great
father the President, and their adhesion to the treaty of Prairie
du Chien. This message should be sent while you are with them,
and I recommend that one from you be likewise sent to the Sioux,
explanatory of the matter.
“You will proceed to the execution of this duty without delay, if
the season be not too far advanced when you receive this letter.
But I am apprehensive it will not reach you in season. Should
it be so, you will please send a message to the chiefs stating
your intention to visit them next summer, and recommending them
to sit still until you can see them. It may have the effect of
keeping them quiet. If, however, you cannot proceed this fall, it
is probable that circumstances may require some change in these
instructions before the next season, and your arrangements must
therefore depend upon such as may be hereafter given.”
“Very respectfully, &c.
LEW. CASS.”
“DEPARTMENT OF WAR, }
_Office of Indian Affairs, 25th April, 1831_. }
“Sir: Since writing the letter to you of the 5th instant, Gov.
Cass has arrived here, and submitted to the Secretary of War
his views, as to the propriety of directing you to proceed into
Lake Superior and the Mississippi country, &c. These views have
been approved, and I am accordingly directed to instruct you to
proceed as soon as your arrangements can be made for the purpose,
on the proposed expedition. The objects to be accomplished are so
well known, and have also been so fully explained in the letter
of Gov. Cass to you of the 9th of August last, that it is deemed
unnecessary to give you any further instructions on the subject.
“Orders will be issued through the proper department, to the
Commanding Officer at the Sault Ste. Marie for a detachment of the
troops, to form a part of the proposed expedition.
“Very respectfully, &c.
SAMUEL S. HAMILTON.”
“DEPARTMENT OF WAR, }
_Office of Indian Affairs, May 3rd, 1832_. }
“Sir: Your letter of Feb. 13th has been received, and its general
views are approved. The Secretary of War deems it important
that you should proceed to the country upon the heads of the
Mississippi, and visit as many of the Indians in that, and the
intermediate region, as circumstances will permit.
“Reports have reached the department, from various quarters, that
the Indians upon our frontiers are in an unquiet state, and that
there is a prospect of extensive hostilities among themselves. It
is no less the dictate of humanity, than of policy, to repress this
feeling, and to establish permanent peace among these tribes. It is
also important to inspect the condition of the trade in that remote
country, and the conduct of the traders. To ascertain whether the
regulations and the laws are complied with, and to suggest such
alterations as may be required. And finally to inquire into the
numbers, standing, disposition and prospects of the Indians, and to
report all the statistical facts you can procure and which will be
useful to the government in its operations, or to the community in
the investigation of these subjects.
“In addition to these objects, you will direct your attention
to the vaccination of the Indians. An act for that purpose, has
passed Congress, and you are authorised to take a surgeon with
you. Vaccine matter prepared and put up by the Surgeon General is
herewith transmitted to you, and you will, upon your whole route,
explain to the Indians the advantages of vaccination, and endeavor
to persuade them to submit to the process. You will keep and report
an account of the number, ages, sex, tribe, and local situation of
the Indians who may be vaccinated, and also of the prevalence, from
time to time, of the small pox among them, and of its effects as
far as these can be ascertained.
“Very respectfully, &c.
ELBERT HERRING.”
In the execution of these orders, the summer season of two years was
devoted. All the bands of the Chippewa nation, located north of the
mouth of the Wisconsin, and some bands of the Sioux were visited.
Councils were held with them at various points, for the objects above
specified, and no opportunity was omitted to acquire statistical and
other information suited to aid in the formation of correct opinions
respecting their condition, and the policy to be pursued respecting
them.
The portion of country situated between the bands of Lake Superior
and the Mississippi, south of St. Anthony’s falls, occupied the
summer of 1831. The area extending thence north, to the source of
the Mississippi, and the Hauteur des Terres, forming the elevation
separating its waters, from the streams received by Hudson’s bay,
constituted the object of the expedition of 1832. So much of this area,
as lies north of a latitude line passing through Cass lake, and west
of about its parallel of longitude, comprehends the principal topic of
description in the following work. And it is thus distinguished, from
other portions of the western country, brought into discussion, in my
two previous volumes of travels.
HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT.
_Detroit, October 10, 1833._
CONTENTS
NARRATIVE
OF AN EXPEDITION THROUGH THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI,
TO ITASCA LAKE.
CHAPTER I.
_Introductory observations on the sources of the
Mississippi.—Pike’s expedition in 1805, for exploring its course,
and ascertaining its origin.—The expedition of Gov. Cass,
directed to the same objects, in 1820.—Its extent, termination,
and results.—Renewed efforts to ascend to its source, by the
author, in 1831.—Diverted to the unexplored country lying in
the area between Lake Superior and the Upper Mississippi, south
of St. Anthony’s Falls.—Summary of the route.—The St. Croix and
Chippewa Rivers.—Massacre of the Monomonees at Prairie du Chien, in
1831.—Mine country.—Return to the Straits of St. Mary._
CHAPTER II.
_Farther observations on the exploration of the Upper Mississippi,
and the discovery of its source.—An expedition authorised by the
United States government, in 1832.—Its organization, objects, and
route.—Leaves St. Mary, and proceeds through Lake Superior.—Sketch
of this lake.—Notice of the murder of Brunet, by an Indian, in
1831.—Mission at Lapointe, or Chagoimegon.—The importance of this
point in Indian history.—Mongozid, Wahbojeeg.—Meet Ozawindib, at
the Brule.—Route to Sandy Lake, on the Upper Mississippi.—Portages
on the St. Louis.—The Savanne portage.—Sandy Lake.—Assassination of
Mr. Kay._
CHAPTER III.
_General arrangements for the route of the expedition on the
waters of the Upper Mississippi.—The width of this stream and
Sandy Lake ascertained.—Notices of the ascent from that point by
the Falls of Peckagama and Lake Winnipec, to Cass Lake.—Attack of
a party of Mandans on the Chippewas at Pembina.—The route of the
Bogottowa Lake.—Encamped at Winnipec House.—Inquiries respecting
the opposition trade, and the traffic in ardent spirits.—Reach Cass
Lake.—The width of the Mississippi, at its outlet.—Encamped on an
island in this lake.—Yellow Head’s town; its population and hunting
grounds.—Remarks on the Fur Trade.—North West, Hudson’s Bay, and
American Fur Companies.—Lord Selkirk’s triumph.—Murder of Owen
Keveny._
CHAPTER IV.
_Brief detail of transactions at Cass Lake.—A select exploring
party is organised here, for ascending to the actual source
of the Mississippi.—Council with the Indians.—Speech of Oza
Windib.—The Indians furnish canoes and guides.—Arrangement of the
party.—Notice of a Warrior’s widow.—Scalp dance.—Facts respecting
foreign interference in the trade of the Upper Mississippi.—The
question of the use of ardent spirits in the trade.—Act of
Congress of 1832, prohibiting it.—Departure of the exploring
party.—Ascent to Pamitchi Gumaug, or Lac Travers.—Its elevation
and size.—A Shingaba Wossin.—Image worship.—Bay.—Ultimate forks
of the Mississippi.—Ascend the east fork.—Lake Marquette.—Lake La
Salle.—Kubbakunna Lake.—Notices of the Natural History._
CHAPTER V.
_Ascent of the east fork of the Mississippi, from Kubbakunna Lake
to the Naiwa rapids.—Its productions.—Indians kill a deer; their
mode of dissecting it.—Reach the foot of Naiwa rapids.—The Naiwa
portage.—Copper-head snake.—Zoned agate.—Journey from thence to
Ossowa Lake, the source of this branch of the Mississippi.—Mistake
in the latitude.—Portage from the east to the west branch.—Hauteur
des Terres.—The height of land between the Hudson’s Bay and Gulf
of Mexico waters.—Geographical notices of its extent.—Its natural
productions.—Its geology.—Arrival at Itasca Lake._
CHAPTER VI.
_Outlines of Itasca Lake.—Its scenery and productions.—Forest
trees, deer, fish, shells.—Width of its outlet.—Altitude above the
ocean.—Length of the Mississippi.—Its course above Cass Lake.—Its
origin south of latitude 47 deg. 16 minutes.—General observations
on the Mississippi.—Erect a flag on the island in Itasca
Lake.—Commence the descent of the West, or Itascan branch of the
Mississippi.—Character of its channel.—Rapids and plateaux.—Falls
of Kakábikons.—Portage.—Encamp at Pine Banks._
CHAPTER VII.
_Continuation of the descent.—Velocity of the rapids.—One of the
canoes is upset, and its contents carried over the falls.—Notices
of the vegetation and zoology.—Fork-tailed hawk.—A novel species
of lizard.—The Yellow Head’s failure in hunting.—Instinct of the
saw-billed duck in preserving its young.—The river continues to
exhibit a succession of rapids and plateaux, during its passage
through the alpine region.—Purity and frequency of springs on
its banks.—Influx of the Cano and Piniddiwin rivers.—Notice of
an inroad and murder committed by the Sioux in former years.—A
night descent.—Some of its incidents.—Reach the junction of the
east and west forks.—Return to Cass Lake.—Observance of the
Sabbath.—Missionary field of labor in the northwest.—Superstitions
and idolatry of the Indians.—Their name for the Deity.—Its probable
derivation._
CHAPTER VIII.
_Council with the Chippewas at Cass Lake.—Speeches of Oza
Windib, Neezh Opinais, and Wai Wain Jeegun.—Distribution
of presents.—Geographical and Geological notices of Cass
Lake.—Colcaspi Isle.—Allen’s Bay.—Pike’s Bay.—Heights and
distances.—Tributary of Turtle River.—Turtle Lake.—Portage from
Cass Lake to Leech Lake.—Hieroglyphic marks.—Moss Lake.—Reach
Lake Shiba.—The source of the River Shiba flowing into Leech
Lake.—Traverse Leech Lake at night, and encamp at Guelle Plat’s
village.—Received by the Indians with respect.—Description of
Leech Lake.—Its population and principal Chiefs.—Warlike character
of the Pillagers.—Efforts made by them to defend the Chippewa
frontiers.—Their warfare defensive._
CHAPTER IX.
_Transactions at Leech Lake.—Notice of the Pillager band.—Their
chief, Aish Kibug Ekozh, or the Flat Mouth.—He invites the agent
and his interpreter to breakfast.—His address on concluding
it.—Vaccination of the Indians.—A deputation from the Rainy Lake
band is received, and a flag presented to their leader, The Hole
in the Sky.—Council with the Pillagers.—Speech of Aish Kibug
Ekozh, in which he makes an allusion to Gen. Pike.—He descants on
the Sioux war, the Indian trade, and the interdiction of ardent
spirits.—Personal notices of this chief._
CHAPTER X.
_Observations on the Leech Lake Chippewas.—Data respecting
the former state of the fur trade.—Their turbulent
character.—Assassination of Relle by Puganoc.—Causes of the
emigration of the North-western Indians.—The unsatisfactory
character of their traditions.—Their language.—Brief synopsis of
its grammatical structure._
CHAPTER XI.
_Encampment on a peninsula in Leech Lake.—Departure for the
portage to the source of the De Corbeau river.—Traverse a
bay.—Commencement of the portage.—The mode of passing it.—First
portage to Warpool Lake.—Pass successively Little Long Lake, the
Four Lakes, Lake of the Mountain, Lake of the Island, and encamp at
the Kagi Nogumaug or Longwater, the source of the De Corbeau.—Are
visited by the Chief of the Pillagers, who performs a journey
for that purpose.—Recognize in his attendant the murderer of
Gov. Semple.—Narrative of facts leading to this event.—Commence
the descent of the river De Corbeau, passing successively the
Longwater, Little Vermillion, Birch Ple, Boutwell’s Vieu, Desert,
Summit, Long-rice, Allen’s, Johnston’s, and Leelina Lakes.—Junction
of the Shell River fork.—Encamp in a storm._
CHAPTER XII.
_Further descent of the De Corbeau.—Remarks on its general course
and character.—Junction of Leaf and Long Prairie Rivers.—The latter
pursued by the Pillagers in their wars against the Sessitons and
Yanktons.—Cause of the appellation of Mukkundwa.—Their robbery of
Berti, and assertion of a belligerent principle.—Forest trees of
the De Corbeau.—Monotony of its scenery.—Meeting with a Chippewa
hunter.—Arrival at the mouth of the river, and entrance of the
Mississippi.—Concourse of Indians assembled at that point.—Council
with them.—Sketch of the speeches of Grosse Gueule, Soangikumig,
and White Fisher.—Arrival of the Pierced Prairie.—First
intelligence of the breaking out of the Sauc War.—Close of the
Narrative.—Notice of the effects of the disuse of ardent spirits by
the men, and the observance of the Sabbath._
EXPLORATION
OF THE
ST. CROIX AND BURNTWOOD RIVERS.
CHAPTER I.
_Interval of the banks of the Mississippi, between the mouths of
the River De Corbeau and St. Croix, adverted to.—Plains above St.
Anthony’s Falls, agricultural.—Fact respecting the recession of
the bison.—Geological change in the character of the Mississippi,
in crossing 45 deg. parallel.—Fort Snelling.—Council.—Reach
the mouth of the St. Croix.—Picturesque character of St. Croix
Lake.—Traits of its natural history.—Encamp near a diminutive
kind of barrows.—“Standing Cedars.”—An Indian trader.—Green-stone
rock.—Falls of the St. Croix.—Traditionary account of an ancient
Indian battle, fought at these falls by the Chippewas, Saucs,
Foxes, and Sioux.—Wahb Ojeeg._
CHAPTER II.
_Ascent of the St. Croix above the falls.—Direct the burning of
illegal trading houses.—Snake River.—Its chief, Pezhicki.—Notices
of Snake River.—Its population and trade.—A foreign trading
company formerly located here.—Effects upon the Indian intercourse
of the present day.—Anecdote of the former mode of using rum
and tobacco.—Kettle Rapids.—Shell River.—A hunting party of
Chippewa boys.—Pokanokuning, or Yellow River.—Its population
and trade.—Notices of its natural history.—Shells.—Prairie
squirrel.—Widow of a murdered Indian, called the Little
Frenchman, declines having her son put to school.—Reach the
forks of the St. Croix.—Notice of the Namakagon Branch.—The
chief, Kabamappa.—Women’s Portage.—The Sturgeon Dam.—Kabamappa’s
village.—Upper St. Croix Lake._
CHAPTER III.
_Character of the St. Croix.—Its productiveness in wild
rice.—Population and trade.—Condition of the Indians, and their
prospect.—Portage to the Burntwood.—Marine sand formation.—Bass
lake.—Character of the Burntwood river.—Arrival at its discharge
into Fond du Lac of Lake Superior.—Indian friends.—Close of
the Narrative.—Brief general remarks on the condition of the
Chippewas.—Traits of character and government.—The institution of
the Totem.—Tale of the origin of White Fish._
APPENDIX
I. NATURAL HISTORY
II. INDIAN LANGUAGE
III. OFFICIAL REPORTS
NARRATIVE
OF AN EXPEDITION THROUGH THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI,
TO ITASCA LAKE.
CHAPTER I.
_Introductory observations on the sources of the
Mississippi.—Pike’s expedition in 1805, for exploring its course,
and ascertaining its origin.—The expedition of Gov. Cass,
directed to the same objects, in 1820.—Its extent, termination,
and results.—Renewed efforts to ascend to its source, by the
author, in 1831.—Diverted to the unexplored country lying in
the area between Lake Superior and the Upper Mississippi, south
of St. Anthony’s Falls.—Summary of the route.—The St. Croix and
Chippewa Rivers.—Massacre of the Monomonees at Prairie du Chien,
in 1831.—Mine country.—Return to the Straits of St. Mary._
American geography may be said to have had three important problems
to solve, in modern times. The first and second of these, related to
the source of the Missouri, and to the course and termination of the
Columbia. Both, were substantially resolved by the expedition of Lewis
and Clark, under the administration of Mr. Jefferson. It is to be
borne in mind, however, that but one of the three forks, up to which
the Missouri was traced, has been explored, that its two northwestern
branches have not been ascended, and that, consequently, we do not
actually know, which of its primary tributaries is the longest, or
brings down the greatest volume of water.
The true source of the Mississippi, which forms the third topic
of inquiry, was brought into discussion at the same period. And
immediately after the acquisition of Louisiana, the American government
sent an officer, with a suitable body of men, to determine it. Lieut.
Pike, who was selected for this service (who, nine years afterwards
lost his life as a general in the service, at the taking of York) did
not, however, set out early enough in the season (1805) to accomplish
the object. After the selection and purchase of the site, on which the
fort near the Falls of St. Anthony, is now situated, he encountered
delays in ascending the rapids characteristic of that part of the
Mississippi. Winter overtook him before reaching the junction of the De
Corbeau. He prepared for its severities by erecting a block house, for
the security of his provisions and men. He then proceeded with a small
detachment, on snow shoes to Sandy Lake, and Leech Lake; two points
of central influence, which were then occupied by the North West Fur
Company. As the partners of this company consisted of foreigners, and
their operations were continued after the legal transfer of the country
to the American government, Lieut. Pike would have been justified in
making a seizure of the valuable furs then in their possession. He
did not, however, adopt this course, and exhibited a magnanimity in
relation to it, which is in accordance with his subsequent acts of
disinterested intrepidity. He collected the geographical data, which
are embodied in his published map and journal, and returned from his
wintry station, on the opening of navigation in the spring.
No further effort was made to explore the sources of the Mississippi,
for several years. In 1820, Gov. Cass, then administering the
government of Michigan Territory and exercising jurisdiction over
Indian affairs, obtained the sanction of the general government to
visit the region. He left Detroit, with a party of thirty-eight men,
including the gentlemen composing his suit, during the latter part of
May. He was supplied for a journey of four months. After traversing
the coasts of Lake Huron, and visiting Michilimackinac, he proceeded
north-westward, by ascending the primitive summit at the Falls of St.
Mary, went through the extended and picturesque basin of Lake Superior,
and first struck the waters of the Upper Mississippi at Sandy Lake. To
this point he was accompanied by the military escort, and by the train
of larger canoes employed to transport stores and baggage. But the
fatigues which the men had undergone in crossing portages, added to the
low state of the water, induced him to form a permanent encampment at
this place. And he proceeded with a select party, in canoes to explore
the Mississippi.
It was the middle of July when the expedition reached Sandy Lake, and
the difficulty of subsisting so large a party in so remote a position,
with the constant claims of suffering and hungry tribes, who presented
themselves at every point, began to be severely felt. The exploring
party, which was now organized, went out, under a sense of these
circumstances, and with a feeling of the responsibility pressing upon
the claims of the expedition in other quarters, which limited the time
applicable to the ascent. They entered the Mississippi on the 17th
of the month, and found a strong current, with alluvial banks, and a
vegetation indicative of a fertile soil. For the distance of about
one hundred and fifty miles, above this point, the party found no
diminution in the average strength of the current, which was frequently
accelerated by rapids. The latter then assumed a more formidable aspect
for ten or a dozen miles, at the end of which they were terminated
by the falls of Peckágama. At this cataract, the river, which below
has its course through alluvial banks, densely wooded, is compressed
between rocks of granulated quartz, over which it rushes with a
velocity, which would seem to threaten destruction to any species of
craft that should attempt the descent. It became necessary, at this
point, to transport the canoes and baggage from two to three hundred
yards over land.
On reaching the Peckágama summit, the channel of the Mississippi
was found to flow more directly from the west, with a comparatively
sluggish current. But the most distinctive trait of this part of the
river was found to consist of a series of extensive savannahs, through
which the river displays itself in the most elaborate windings. The
junction of the Leech Lake branch takes place at this plateau, at the
computed distance of fifty-five miles above the falls. After passing
this point, the course of the river is again, generally, from the
north-west, about forty-five miles to Lake Winnipec, a handsome body
of clear water, estimated to be ten miles broad. The course of the
ascent is then west, for about fifty miles, at which distance the
river is found expanded into a more considerable lake, presenting
an area of limpid water of, perhaps, 120 square miles. This sheet,
which has subsequently been found to be the largest expansion of the
Mississippi, is since denominated Cass Lake. It was the highest point
reached. The party entered it on the 21st of July. The question of
pursuing the stream further, was then submitted by Gov. Cass, to the
gentlemen composing his party. Anxious as all were to see the actual
source of so celebrated a stream, their wishes were controlled by
circumstances. Inconveniences had been felt from leaving the supplies
at so considerable a distance below, and as the waters were found to
be low, and the preparations inadequate for a journey of indefinite
extent, a decisive opinion was expressed in favor of a return from this
point. This decision was immediately carried into effect.
From the best information that could be obtained, the Mississippi
was represented to have its origin in a lake called _La Biche_,
supposed to be sixty miles distant, in a north-west direction. Upon
this estimate, the length of the river was computed to be 3038 miles,
and by a series of approximate estimates, its altitude placed at 1330
feet above the Atlantic. Numerous rapids and lakes were, however,
stated to exist in this remote part of the stream, and a degree of
vagueness and uncertainty exhibited in relation to it, which evinced,
that the traders, who were relied on for information, either, had
seldom frequented it, or preserved an indefinite recollection of its
geographical features.
Such was the state of public information on this point in 1820. A
veil of obscurity was still cast about the actual source of the
Mississippi, which there was no further attempt to remove for ten or
eleven years. In 1830, the writer of these sheets was directed to
proceed into the Chippewa country, north-west of Lake Superior, in the
execution of duties connected with Indian affairs. But the instructions
were received so late in the season, that their execution became
impracticable until the next year. In the mean time, means for more
extensive observation were provided, a physician and botanist engaged,
and a small detachment of troops, under the command of a subaltern,
ordered to form a part of the expedition.
This expedition numbering twenty-seven persons, exclusive of guides and
Indian auxiliaries, employed on the portages, left St. Mary’s at the
foot of Lake Superior, late in June 1831. After entering, and coursing
around the shores of Lake Superior to Lapointe, it was found, from
every representation, that the low state of the water on the Upper
Mississippi, would render it difficult, if not impracticable, to reach
the bands at its sources, during the drought of summer. Public reasons
were, at the same time, urgent for visiting the interior bands, located
between the group of islands at the head of Lake Superior, and the
Mississippi—where a useless and harassing conflict was kept up between
the Sioux and Chippewa nations.
The expedition returned eight miles on its track, and entered the
mouth of Mushkigo, or Mauvais river of Lake Superior. This stream,
which carries down the waters of an extensive slope of highlands, is
embarrassed with permanent rafts of flood wood, and with numerous
rapids, presenting an arduous ascent. The axe, the canoe-pole, and the
carrying-strap, were alternately employed in the ascent, and they were
employed under the influence of the midsummer’s heat, and the annoyance
of the hordes of smaller insects, who are on the wing, in this secluded
valley, during the greater part of the twenty-four hours. This stream
was ascended one hundred and four miles, to the portage. The goods and
canoes were then carried 8¾ miles, across highlands, to a lake called
Kaginógumoc, or the Longwater; and thence by four separate portages,
and three intervening lakes, to the Namakágon river. The latter was
descended one hundred and sixty-one miles, to its junction with the St.
Croix, of which it is the right fork, and the channel of the latter
pursued to Yellow River. From this point, where a public council was
convened, the expedition re-ascended the Namakágon to the portage into
_lac Courtorielle_, or Ottawa Lake. This portage consists of a carrying
place of three miles and a lake, then another carrying place of 750
yards and a lake, from the latter of which there is a navigable outlet
into the Ottawa for canoes.
Ottawa Lake is a sheet of water about twelve miles long, having an
outlet into the Chippewa river of the Upper Mississippi. In order,
however, to visit certain hostile bands, a portage was made from this
outlet (after following it down about half a day’s journey,) of 3½
miles, into lac Chetac, the principal source of Red Cedar river. The
latter was then pursued, through four principal expansions, called
Wigwas, Warpool, Red Cedar and Rice Lakes, to its falls. A short
portage over horizontal sand-rock, interrupts the navigation, after
which there is a series of rapids, extending about 24 miles. Deep
and strong water was then found to its junction with the Chippewa
river, which it enters at the estimated distance of 40 miles from the
confluence of the latter with the Mississippi, (on its eastern bank.)
The entire line of country travelled by this interior route was 643
miles. The Mushkigo, the St. Croix, and the Chippewa, were the rivers,
which by their common origin and interlocking on the summit lands,
afforded this communication. Many bands of Indians were visited in
their fastnesses, where they had hitherto supposed themselves out of
the reach of observation. Councils were held at various points, and
presents distributed. And the pauses afforded by these assemblages,
and by the necessary delays of overland transportation, furnished
opportunities for preserving notes on the manner of living, among
those bands, and their population, traditions and resources, as well
as the geographical features and the natural history of the country.
On entering the Mississippi, the truth of the information, derived on
Lake Superior, respecting its depressed state, was verified. Extensive
portions of its outer channel and bars, were found exposed and dry. The
party encamped on a sand bar formed by the junction of the Chippewa,
which is usually several feet under water.
From the mouth of the Chippewa, the expedition descended the
Mississippi to Galena, in Illinois. While at Prairie du Chien, the
murder of twenty-six Monomonee men, women, and children, by a war
party of the Sacs and Foxes, which had transpired a few days previous,
was the subject of exciting interest. It was narrated with all its
atrocious circumstances. A flag waved over the common grave of the
slain, and several of the wounded Monomonees, who had escaped the
massacre, were examined and conversed with. This affray unparalleled
for its boldness and turpitude, having occurred in the village of
Prairie du Chien, in the hearing of its inhabitants, and in sight of
the fort, was made the subject of demand by the government for the
surrendry of the murderers, and produced the concentration of troops
on that frontier, which eventuated in the Indian war of 1832. Some
excitement was also felt at Galena, and its vicinity, in consequence of
the menacing attitude which the Sacs and Foxes had recently assumed,
in the vicinity of Rock Island, and a general mistrust felt of their
sincerity in the treaty concluded with the United States a short time
previous.
At Galena, the exploring party separated, part returning in canoes up
the Wisconsin, and part crossing the mine country, over the branches of
the Pekatolika, and by the way of the Blue Mounds, to fort Winnebago.
From this point, Fox River was descended to Green Bay, and the route of
the lake coast pursued northward to the straits, and to the Sault of
St. Mary.
A narrative of this expedition, embracing its principal incidents, and
observations on the productions of the country, is in preparation for
publication by one of the gentlemen of the party. In the mean time, the
official report transmitted to Government, and submitted to Congress by
the War Department, together with remarks in a series of letters on the
mine country, are subjoined in the appendix to this volume.