Transcriber's Note: Minor typographical errors have been corrected
without note. Irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have
been retained as printed.
Words printed in italics are marked with underscores: _italics_.
Words printed in bold are marked with tildes: ~bold~.
There are some prescriptions where the symbols cannot be represented
in plain text. These are instead shown as:
Prescription, [Rx]
Scruple, [Sc]
Dram, [Dr]
Ounce, [Oz].
The 20 pages of ads preceding the title page were moved to the end of
the book.
HOW TO TRAVEL.
HINTS, ADVICE, AND SUGGESTIONS TO TRAVELERS
BY
LAND AND SEA ALL OVER THE GLOBE.
BY
THOMAS W. KNOX,
AUTHOR OF "CAMP-FIRE AND COTTON-FIELD," "OVERLAND THROUGH
ASIA," "UNDERGROUND," "BACKSHEESH," "JOHN," "THE BOY TRAVELERS
IN THE FAR EAST," ETC.
NEW YORK:
CHARLES T. DILLINGHAM.
BOSTON:
LEE AND SHEPARD.
LONDON AND GENEVA
THE AMERICAN EXCHANGE IN EUROPE.
1881.
Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1880, by
THOMAS W. KNOX,
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
All rights of translation and foreign publication are reserved.
TO ALL TRAVELERS ON LAND AND SEA,
THIS VOLUME
IS SYMPATHETICALLY INSCRIBED.
PREFACE.
In preparing this volume for the press the author of "How to Travel"
has endeavored to supply a want whose existence has long been apparent
to him. Having journeyed somewhat over the earth he is frequently
consulted by friends and acquaintances who are about to travel, and
wish to know what to do before setting out on their undertakings, and
how to meet the various perplexities that are sure to arise. In
preparing this book he has answered a great many interrogatories
that have been addressed to him in person, and if the manner of his
response should be considered didactic, he begs the reader to remember
that the author is endeavoring to meet the questions of the would-be
traveler, and, therefore, addresses him in the second person. As
nearly as possible he has embodied in "How to Travel" as much
information as could be wrung from him by a vigorous and thorough
interrogation of a couple of long winter evenings, conducted by an
inquisitive couple who were about starting on a journey around the
world and up and down its surface.
With the changes that are constantly going on, some of the information
here given may be found slightly inaccurate, but it is hoped that
instances of this sort will be rare. Prices of hotels, steamships,
railroads, and the like are subject to alteration, and consequently no
absolute rule can be laid down. But the author believes that in the
instances where his figures may be found astray they are so near the
mark that they will prove of material assistance to the traveler.
As the author is neither a lady nor a lawyer, he has found it
desirable to invoke the aid of those important members of society in
the preparation of the book. A reference to the table of contents
will show the assistance they have given him, the one in a chapter
of "Special Advice to Ladies" and the other in "Legal Rights of
Travelers." All other parts of the book are of his own production and
the results of his experience in travel, covering a period of more
than 20 years and embracing many lands and seas.
With this explanatory preface, and trusting that the volume will be
a sufficient apology for its existence, the author delivers it to the
hands of the traveling public, and hopes for a verdict in its favor.
T. W. K.
NEW YORK, February, 1881.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER. PAGE.
I. General Advice Applicable to all Kinds of Travel, 9
II. Railway Travel in the United States and Canadas, 20
III. American Steamboat Travel, 28
IV. Sea and Ocean Travel, 37
V. Sea Sickness and How to Avoid it, 48
VI. Special Advice to Ladies, by a Lady, 55
VII. Daily Life at Sea, 64
VIII. Going on Shore--Hotels, 76
IX. The System of Fees, 87
X. English and Continental Money, 102
XI. Languages and Couriers, 108
XII. Railway Traveling on the Continent, 118
XIII. Steamboat Traveling in Europe, 133
XIV. Sea-going Steamers in European Waters, 139
XV. Sea and Ocean Steamers in Various Parts of the World, 147
XVI. Travel by Stage-Coach, Diligence, and Post, 155
XVII. Traveling with Camels and Elephants, 167
XVIII. Traveling with Reindeer and Dogs, 174
XIX. Traveling with Man-power--Palankeens, Jinrikishas,
and Sedan Chairs, 179
XX. Pedestrian Traveling--Mountain Climbing, 186
XXI. Traveling Without Money--Round the World for $50, 193
XXII. Skeleton Tours for America and Europe, 201
XXIII. } General Directions for a Journey Round the
XXIV. } World, with Routes, Distances, etc., etc., 207
XXV. Legal Rights of Travelers, by a Lawyer, 230
XXVI. Wilderness and Frontier Travel, 242
CHAPTER I.
GENERAL ADVICE APPLICABLE TO ALL KINDS OF TRAVEL.
There is an old saying of unknown origin that a light heart and a thin
pair of trowsers are the principal requisites for a journey. The
proper texture of one's garments depends largely on his route of
travel and the difficulties to be encountered; thin ones would be
desirable in hot countries and for lounging on the deck of a ship in
low latitudes, while they would be eminently out of place in the
region of the north pole or in the rough traveling of the wilderness.
But no one will deny that a light heart has much to do with the
pleasure of travel, and the man who can be serene under all
circumstances, who laughs at mishaps, and accepts every situation with
a smile of content, or at least with a feeling of resignation, is the
model voyager. For him the miles go by as on the wings of a bird,
while to the grumbler and misanthrope they are weighted with lead. The
former comes back from his wanderings refreshed and instructed while
the latter is no better in mind and body than when setting out on his
journey. For your own comfort and happiness, and your own mental and
physical advantage, start on your journey with a determination to see
the bright side of everything and to endure as cheerfully as possible
the jolts and buffetings and petty disappointments that are sure to be
your lot. And in the same proportion that a light heart makes you
better for yourself it makes you better and more agreeable for those
who may be traveling with you.
If you have been reared in the belief that your own country, or your
own state, town, or hamlet, contains all that is good in the world,
whether of moral excellence, mental development, or mechanical skill,
you must prepare to eradicate that belief at an early date. That you
and yours have the best and are the best we will not for a moment
deny, but when you attempt to claim everything you claim too much. To
an observant and thoughtful individual the invariable effect of travel
is to teach respect for the opinions, the faith, or the ways of
others, and to convince him that other civilizations than his own are
worthy of consideration. At the same time he will find his love for
his native land as strong as ever and his admiration for his own
institutions as warm as on the day of his departure. An old traveler
once said: "I have found good among every people, and even where there
was much to condemn there was much to admire. I have never returned
from a journey without an increased respect for the countries I have
visited and a greater regard for my own land than ever before. The
intelligent traveler will certainly be a true patriot."
So much for the mental conditions of travel. We will come now to the
practical and tangible needs of locomotion.
Money is the first of these things. It is true that one can travel
without money, and in a later chapter we will see how it may be
accomplished; for the present we will look upon money as a requisite.
Never carry a large amount of cash about your person or in your
baggage. A letter of credit, procurable at any banker's, is far better
than ready money, as its loss causes nothing more than temporary
inconvenience. It is best not to lose it at all; but, in case of its
disappearance, payment may be stopped and the finder or thief can
derive no benefit from its possession. The usual form of a letter of
credit is about as follows:
"New York, 18 .
"_To our correspondents:_
"We have the pleasure of introducing to you * * * * * the bearer
of this letter, whose signature you will find in the margin. We
beg you to honor his drafts to the amount of * * * * * pounds
sterling upon our London house. All deductions and commissions to
be at the expense of the bearer.
"We have the honor to remain, gentlemen,
"Very truly yours,
"* * * * * *."
Some banking-houses have their letters printed in French instead of
English, but the substance is the same. The amount is usually
expressed in pounds sterling, and drafts are made payable in London;
but if the traveler is going directly to the continent of Europe, some
of the bankers will give him, if he desires it, a letter on Paris and
state the amount in francs. Sterling credits are generally the best to
carry, no matter what country you may be visiting, as London is the
money centre of the world, and there is never any difficulty in
ascertaining the rate of exchange upon that great city. The traveling
letter of credit is printed on the front of a four-page sheet, letter
size; the second page is left blank for the endorsement of the amounts
drawn, and the third and fourth pages contain a list of bankers in all
the principal cities that the voyager is likely to visit. Any
respectable banker, even if not named on the printed list, will
generally cash a letter of credit; but it is advisable to adhere as
much as possible to the correspondents of the establishment that
issued the document.
The traveler should only draw at one time sufficient money to last him
for a few days, or till he reaches a convenient place for making
another draft. A week's supply of cash is usually sufficient for a
single draft; but, of course, no absolute rule can be laid down.
Another form of traveling credit is in the shape of circular notes,
which are issued by some bankers, though not by all. They are for
various amounts--five, ten, twenty, fifty, or a hundred pounds--and
are accompanied by a letter of identification which bears the
signature of the holder. The notes are useless without the letter, and
the letter without the notes, and the traveler is advised to carry
them apart from each other. The advantage of this kind of credit is
that you can have the notes cashed at a hotel or at any large shop
where you may be making purchases, and you may have remittances follow
you from time to time in circular notes, the same letter of
identification answering for all. The disadvantage is that they are
bulky, and consequently inconvenient to carry, and the possession of
two parcels in place of one, in different parts of your baggage,
doubles the chances of loss. For a long journey where a considerable
amount is to be carried, or where remittances are to follow, I would
recommend that part of the funds should be in a letter of credit, and
part in circular notes with an identification.
For domestic traveling, bankers' drafts and credits can always be
procured; but American bankers are much more stringent about
identifications than are those of Europe, and the traveler must be
sure that he can be properly identified wherever he is going, or he
may experience difficulty in obtaining his cash. An obliging banker
has been known to pay a draft to an individual who had no other
identification than his name written on his under-clothing or his
initials tattooed on his arm. But such instances are rare, and the
money-changer is very likely to be obdurate, though polite. It is said
that a Boston banker once cashed a check payable to the order of Peter
Bean, under the following circumstances:--The bearer said he knew
nobody in the city, but he proved his identity by ripping open the
lining of his coat-collar and revealing a pea and a bean, securely
stowed away. "That's my name," said he, "P. Bean; and that's the way I
mark my coats." But all names cannot be written with the products of
the garden, and Mr. Bean is not likely to have many imitators.
Your letters can be sent to the care of any banker on whom your
credits are drawn, and they will be forwarded by him as you may
direct. This is the usual custom with European travelers, and there
is rarely any cause for complaint.
When traveling, always be careful to have plenty of small change in
your pockets, and be prepared to pay all obligations, especially the
smallest, in their exact amount. The vast horde of cabmen, porters,
guides, waiters, and all classes of people who render you services, or
pretend to have done so, are proverbially without change, and if you
cannot tender the exact sum due them you are pretty certain to overpay
them. Even where they admit that they are possessed of small coin,
they generally manage so as to mulct you in something by having their
change give out before the proper return is reached. The New York
hackman to whom you hand a five-dollar bill for him to deduct his fare
of two dollars will usually discover that he has only two dollars, or
perhaps two and a half, in his possession; and the London cabman will
play the same trick when you ask him to take half a crown from a
five-shilling piece. All over the world you will find it the same.
There may be an occasional exception, but it only proves the rule. And
when you enter the great field of gratuities, you will find that the
absence of small change will cost you heavily. Many a man has given a
shilling where a sixpence was quite sufficient, and all that was
expected; but he did not have the sixpence in his pocket, and the
shilling had to go.
Have as little baggage as the circumstances will justify. Don't carry
anything on the principle of Mrs. Toodles, that it may come handy some
time, but take only what you know to be absolutely necessary. No rule
can be laid down, and each person must judge for himself. For a man, a
suit of clothes in addition to the one he wears is sufficient for
outward adornment, unless he is "in society," and expects to dine,
attend parties, or make fashionable visits. In the latter case a
dress-suit is indispensable, and in European travel it is generally
well to have a dress-suit along, since there are many public
ceremonies where the wearer of ordinary clothing is not admitted. For
ladies, a traveling-dress, a walking-dress, and a black silk dress may
be considered the minimum. The black silk garment corresponds to the
masculine dress-suit, but it comes in use on many occasions where the
latter is not demanded. The quantity of under-clothing will depend
largely on personal habits. It should never be less than to cause no
inconvenience in a week's absence of the laundress, and if a long
voyage is to be made by steamship the supply should be proportionally
increased. It is a good rule never to omit an opportunity of giving
your soiled garments to be washed, even if only a day or two has
elapsed since your last employment of the laundress. In all civilized
parts of the world where there is an appreciable volume of travel,
washing is done in from twenty-four to forty-eight hours, but away
from the routes you must count on a week, or four or five days at
least.
A single trunk of moderate size will contain all that is needed for
the actual traveling wants of a reasonable being, of either sex,
except on a long journey. To this add a hand-satchel to hold your
toilet articles, and any little odds and ends of reading matter, or
other personal comforts. Some travelers are content with such toilet
materials as they find in hotels, and do not object to a public comb
or hair-brush; but the majority of individuals are more fastidious. In
most hotels in America, soap is supplied in private rooms; but in
Europe the traveler must provide his own.
Endeavor as much as possible to avoid being in a hurry. Go to your
train, boat, ship, diligence, or other conveyance, in ample season, so
that all needed arrangements can be made without pressure for want of
time. You will save money and temper by adopting this rule.
Respect the rights of other travelers, and by so doing you will lead
them to respect yours. Keep your disposition as unruffled as possible
at all times, and even when angry inside don't let the anger come to
the surface. If you find yourself imposed upon by any official or
employé of railway or steamer, state your views quietly but firmly,
and, if he declines to redress the wrong, ask him to be kind enough to
call his superior. If the latter is inaccessible, ask, in the same
polite tone, for his address, and the chances are ten to one that your
cause of complaint will be removed without more discussion.
Expenses may be roughly set down at five dollars a day, not including
railway or other fares, and not including luxuries of any kind.
Ordinary hotel expenses will be not far from three dollars a day,
leaving two dollars for incidentals. Most persons would be likely to
exceed rather than fall below this figure, and in the United States
they will find that money melts away more rapidly than in Europe.
England is at least twenty-five per cent. dearer than the continental
countries, and only a trifle cheaper than America. The traveler who is
not economical on the one hand and not wasteful on the other can get
along very well on six dollars a day in England or America, and five
dollars on the continent, with the exception of Spain and Russia,
which are dearer than Germany, France, Italy, or Switzerland. The
usual allowance to commercial travelers for their expenses, exclusive
of railway fares, is one pound sterling daily in England, and twenty
francs on the continent; and it is probable that the most of them
manage to keep within their allowances.
A party of two or more will travel somewhat cheaper than the same
number of individuals alone, for the reason that many items are
no more for two than for one. Including all the expenses of
travel--railways, steamships, hotels, carriages, fees, and the
like--an extended journey may be made for ten dollars a day in England
and Europe, and twelve dollars for the United States. This allows for
first-class places on all conveyances, and good rooms at good
hotels--requires no rigid economy, and permits no extravagance. For a
journey around the world, to occupy ten or twelve months, and visiting
Japan, China, Siam, Java, India, Egypt, Italy, France, and England,
together with the run across the American continent, the cost will be
about four or five thousand dollars. But, as before stated, there can
be no fixed rule, and the amount of expenditure depends largely upon
the tastes and habits of the traveler and the amount of money at his
disposal. More will be said on this topic in subsequent pages.
Whenever you go out of your own country carry a passport. It may not
be needed, as passports are now demanded in very few countries, but it
is a good thing to have along, since it serves as an identification in
case of trouble with the authorities, and is useful in civil actions
or where the assistance of your consul may be required. In many
countries the post-office employés refuse to deliver registered
letters to a stranger except on presentation of his passport, and the
document will occasionally be found useful at the banker's. An old
frontiersman once said of the revolver which he habitually carried,
"You don't need it often; perhaps may never need it at all, but when
you do want it you want it awful bad, I tell you." The same may be
said of the passport.
Passports may be procured through a lawyer or notary public, and a
single passport is sufficient for a family. They may also be obtained
at any United States legation abroad on presentation of proofs of
citizenship. The government fee for a passport is five dollars.
At the custom-house, whatever its nationality, be as civil as possible
and anticipate the desires of the officials. They have a duty to
perform, and if you facilitate their labors the chances are they will
appreciate the politeness and let you off as easily as they can
consistently. Unlock your trunk or valise, or offer to do so, before
they ask you, and open the various compartments immediately. Declare
anything that may be liable to duty and call attention to it, and
conduct yourself generally as though it was one of the delights of
your life to pass a custom-house examination. If you are inclined to
defraud the revenue, do it gracefully and conceal your contraband
articles so that it will not be easy to find them yourself after you
are out of reach of the officials. Honesty is, however, the best
policy in this business, and the smuggler is just as much a violator
of the law as a burglar.
The ways of the custom-house may sometimes be smoothed by a numismatic
application to the hand of the inspector, but it is not altogether a
safe operation. In Turkey, Egypt, Syria, and other Moslem countries
bribery is considered a legitimate and honorable transaction, and the
customs officer looks at the outside of your trunk and extends his
open hand for your money with as little attempt at concealment as does
the cabman when he asks for your fare. At the Italian Dogana fees are
taken on the sly, but you may sometimes make a mistake and hit the
wrong man, and the same is the case in Spain and Russia. In the other
continental countries generally, and in England and the United States,
fee-taking at the custom-house is a pretty rare exception, and the
traveler will do far better to avoid crooked ways than to attempt
them. Instances have been known of American inspectors who went
straight to the point and suggested that a five-dollar bill would make
things easy, and when it was not forthcoming they gave all the trouble
in their power. Happily such occurrences are rare, and if customs
officials are occasionally dishonest it should be remembered that they
are no worse than those who encourage them to be so. A bribe, like a
bargain, requires two persons for its consummation, and of this twain
the officer is but one.
Before starting on any journey buy a copy of "How to Travel," and if
you find the book useful be kind enough to recommend it to your
friends and acquaintances. Find the best guide-books for the region
you are to visit and study them carefully; if you make a mistake and
get hold of a poor one, remember that even a poor guide-book is better
than none at all, and you will generally obtain the worth of your
money from it.
For the United States Osgood's and Appleton's guides are to be
recommended, though there are others that contain a great deal of
information. The name of guide-books for the trans-continental journey
is legion; all have their merits and their faults, and as they are to
be found at all the news-stands on the great railway lines the tourist
can choose for himself.
For Europe the principal guide-books are those of Murray and Baedeker.
Baedeker's books are the most convenient, and contain more practical
information than their English rival; and there are probably ten
copies of Baedeker sold to one of Murray. Where a traveler wishes to
learn about the hotels, railways, cabs, roads, and other things of
every-day life, Baedeker is his friend, but where he desires a long
historical sketch, or perhaps a dissertation on art, he will choose
Murray. It is well to have both these guides, as the one supplies
oftentimes what the other lacks. Harper's and Appleton's guide books
to Europe and the East, each in three volumes, are popular with many
Americans, on account of their compactness.
Syria, Palestine, and Egypt are also covered by both Baedeker and
Murray, and the latter has a guide to India, but it has not been
revised for a long time. There are no complete guide-books to China,
Japan, and the Far East generally, and the tourist must rely on
general works of history and travel. In this connection the writer
respectfully calls attention to his volumes, named on the title-page
of this work.