A MONTH AWAY FROM THE TRENCHES
(For a month our life is spent in marches and more or less prolonged
stays in various encampments in the region of the Meuse—a calm
existence, without many events of interest. My journal relates only a
few scattered incidents.)
_April 3._ First stage. Left Cabane-Puits this morning at three, and
reached here at eight.
Little village partly destroyed by the Boches, barbarously, when they
were obliged to fall back at the time of the battle of the Marne. I am
billeted in the house of a peasant woman who has told us many tales of
their atrocities. The church is in ruins. It seems they locked up in it
a very old grandmother and then set fire to it. A striking thing in the
midst of the ruins of this church is a statue, still standing,—the only
one,—a statue of Joan of Arc made of plaster, her sword broken, her face
blackened with smoke, her banner half gone, but proud and erect, truly a
stirring sight. What a fine subject for an article for Maurice Barrès!
That virgin symbolizing our will to conquer, France wounded and
bleeding, but still valiant and undaunted and full of faith. I am told
the statue of Joan of Arc at the entrance to the Cathedral of Rheims has
not been touched by shells either. It is as if the soul of our country,
incarnated in our superb heroine, wished to manifest itself thus to its
defenders.
There is a rumor that we shall go to the Dardanelles. What luck that
would be! Perhaps I could rejoin my brother who enlisted at eighteen and
has just started with the expeditionary force.
_April 6._ We have been on the march for three days. I cannot quite make
out the reason for all this marching. Certainly we are not on the way to
fight, for then we should go by rail. It isn’t rest, either, thirty
kilometres a day of rather hard marching. And then we march in broad
daylight. Perhaps it is to throw the enemy off the scent and simulate
extensive shifting of troops.
We have crossed the rich pasture lands of the Argonne and the deep,
thick forests to the north of which the fighting is in progress. The
sight of all this wonderful vegetation has suddenly made me realize that
spring is here. The desolation of Champagne—a real desert, with a few
clumps of mutilated pines—had given scarcely a hint of its coming. Here
there are perfumes and flowers, gayety, pleasant sunshine, birds. But
not everything is gay. We have come through many a wrecked and
desecrated village—one especially in which not a single house was left
standing. It happened that a sort of wooden shed just outside the
village hid the ruins. The band was marching with our battalion that
day. The band-master, as usual, had them play a march, and we prepared
to file into the village at attention. Then, in our proudest trim, with
clarions and flourish of trumpets, we entered suddenly upon a blackened,
blasted street between two long heaps of rubbish,—not a house, not a
living soul, only chaos and emptiness. A strange contrast—that sparkling
music with those ruins. But was not this also an act of faith—a promise?
As a rule we set out about eight in the morning and at one o’clock make
a long halt. A rolling kitchen for each company has been included in our
regimental train since our departure from the trenches. When we arrive,
generally rather tired, we have hot coffee and soup. In the evening on
reaching encampment we salute the flag and every one gets settled in his
quarters. Villages in ruins for the most part. There has been no
fighting here, but, when they left, the Germans set fire to things
everywhere.
At B.-sur-A. is a marvellous Gothic church in the purest style very
nearly wrecked. Oh, destroyers of cathedrals! It brings freshly to my
mind the great grief I felt on learning of the burning of Notre Dame de
Rheims. Since that moment I have sworn hatred to the Germans. To kill
men is, after all, the business of war and it can be explained, even if
it cannot be excused. But to try to kill the soul of a whole epoch, the
sublime and imposing spirit of the Middle Ages, which had put into its
cathedrals all its faith, all its aspirations, all its life!—The Germans
are jealous of the splendor of our country, and they who have raised
their Gothic monuments only in the school of France—for Gothic was born
in the Île de France—they who have had the wit only to imitate are
determined to be first and foremost in the art of destruction. And they
know very well that the French will not make reprisals and that
Nuremberg and the Wartburg will still be standing after our victory.
_April 9._ On the banks of the Meuse between Verdun and Saint-Mihiel.
The taking of Éparges has just been announced to us. It is a great
success, and great in consequences I think. We have been brought here as
an army of reinforcements to be used in case of need. But our comrades
took the mountain without us.
We rest, we exercise mildly. I have been boating a little on the Meuse.
At night I like to climb the heights above the village, where one can
see the search-lights of Verdun sweeping the sky.
I play a while at the church every day. The band of our regiment gives a
daily concert at four.
Much bustle and stir. Endless convoys pass; Boche ’planes come along
from time to time and are driven off by our artillery.
_April 14._ We are kept continually on the move. Now we are headed
south.
A splendid ceremony yesterday—the decoration of our flag. Our regiment
received the _Croix d’Honneur_ for its conduct in Champagne.
The whole army corps was massed in a vast area of untilled fields.
Bluecoats everywhere. It was very beautiful. The generals arrived and
passed along our front, while we all presented arms. Then the flags of
all the regiments were placed side by side, with their escort of honor.
Three of the number were to be decorated, and were set a little in
advance of this splendid group of shimmering rags floating triumphantly
in the wind. All the bands together played the Marseillaise. I could not
see much, I was so far away, but I did see the general kiss the flags
which seemed to droop toward him, and I clearly heard the swelling notes
of our national hymn flung to the sky by the bands and by our hearts.
Then the whole army corps, bayonets and sabres bared, defiled.
With our beloved standard we returned to cantonment. The colonel made us
march before it once more. The glory of our flag was reflected on each
one of us and we were very proud.
_April 20._ Continual marches. Springtime. Rest.
Very uniform life. On reaching a village, after lodging my men, I always
sally forth to find the church and play the organ. It is my great joy.
The other day we had execution parade. Two soldiers of the regiment were
courtmartialed for refusing to go to the trenches and hiding while the
others were fighting. They were condemned to hard labor.
In the morning the regiment assembled in a hollow square. Three
battalions formed three sides; the fourth was made up of the machine-gun
corps, the sanitary corps, and the band. On the arrival of the condemned
men, who were dressed in the chestnut brown costume of the convict,
their heads shaved, without the slightest vestige of anything military,
the colonel ordered us to fix bayonets and shoulder arms. The prisoners
were brought into the middle of the square under the conduct of four
soldiers with fixed bayonets. The drums beat a ruffle—a long, low roll
followed by complete silence. Then a sergeant-major read the sentence.
The drums rolled once more, after which the two men passed along in
front of the ranks—supreme ignominy for those who are unworthy to bear
arms. Then they were handed over to the gendarmes and we all dispersed.
_April 22._ Reached the banks of the Marne-Rhine Canal, along which I
have had so many beautiful walks near Nancy in the old days. We are
going to entrain. For what point? For Alsace, perhaps, or the
Dardanelles.
_April 25._ Neither Alsace nor the Dardanelles. The secret was well
kept. We did not know where we were going until we actually arrived. To
the Somme, not far from Amiens.
Our journey was a long one. Leaving Bar-le-Duc at 3 A.M. we did not get
out of the train until 11 at night. It was a bitter disappointment when
I found I was turning my back on Alsace. I began to follow on my map the
branch lines leading toward the south. There were two. We passed them
by. We were going in the direction of Paris. We followed the
battle-field of the Marne—Cézanne, Terte-Gauche, La Fère-Champenoise,
Coulommiers. Along the railroad tracks were trenches, and individual
shelters, shell holes, and graves,—graves everywhere, either big, common
graves decorated with flowers and inscriptions, many-colored, or else
separate graves. But over them all waves the bright tricolor, joyously.
They lie in the midst of a veritable flower-garden of flags, those who
have died for our country.
We met an armored train run by marine fusiliers. The big guns are graced
by the names of women: La Joconde, Josephine, etc. The marines made
friendly signals to us as we passed.
And then, toward evening, we reached the outskirts of Paris, in all the
adorable beauty of springtime and blossoming trees, to say nothing of
its houses, real ones, big, beautiful, luxurious. We had come so near
forgetting what they looked like. And the women smiled, and waved to the
soldiers who were going off to defend them.
Very near Paris we stopped for two hours, so near that half an hour in
an omnibus would have brought us out at the Opéra. We stayed there a
long time, with our eyes fixed upon the Capital, and many of us were sad
at being so close to those who were dear to us when they so little
suspected it. The bugle for departure brought me back from my reveries,
and we plunged once more into the night.
At 11 o’clock we detrained and marched until about 2 A.M. Before
daybreak we were under shelter. Orders had arrived. We were forbidden to
go out in the daytime except when it was possible to keep out of sight.
It was essential for the enemy to remain in ignorance of our presence. A
very strict watch was instituted against enemy aviators. Patrols
provided with field-glasses were stationed on the heights; beside each
patrol was a bugler. As soon as an aeroplane was sighted, long, slow
bugle notes indicated that every one must hide. Staccato notes meant
that the danger was over. There were numerous alarms,—Boche ’planes
going to throw bombs on Amiens, also several French ’planes. By way of
precaution, the bugle is sounded for every kind of air-craft and the
short notes indicating “danger past” reëcho as soon as the sentry spies
on the wings of the ’plane the tricolor cockade.
I am billeted at the house of a cheery and charming peasant woman who is
kindness itself. She dotes on officers and treats us royally. I wish it
might last, this life of peace and comfort. But something is brewing.
The storm will burst before long. Of that much I am certain.
_April 27._ Delicious _far niente_. I am enthroned in idleness like a
pasha. We are not allowed to show ourselves, so our rest is absolute.
But we are well taken care of, and I am not complaining. Meanwhile the
commander calls us together each day to expound the principles of the
new tactics. There are not to be any more little local attacks, like
those in Champagne, but big attacks, and the unit of combat will be the
company and no longer the section. The goal we must aim at is to take at
a single blow all the enemy’s trenches, so as to push him back into the
open. First, the artillery will hammer the Boche trenches; then we shall
have to jump over them, while crews of “trench-cleaners” follow in our
wake to put in order the trenches thus conquered. The men of the crews
are armed with revolvers and knives.
Decidedly the war is daily growing more terrible.
There are other principles, too, that have reference to working in
concert with the artillery. But I think it is lunch time.
_April 30._ We start this evening. There is to be a grand offensive.
Some great stroke is being prepared. Will it be the decisive one? I
still dream the same dream that haunted me in the training-camp; the
grand entry into Berlin, Unter den Linden, but especially the triumphal
return to Paris, under the Arc de l’Étoile, down the Champs-Elysées.
I am rather sorry to leave the life of comfort and good cheer I have
been leading these days. But thanks to this respite I shall be all the
more ready for work, I think.
It is a month since I left Champagne. For a month we have been going
about from village to village, from Champagne to the Meuse, from the
Meuse to Lorraine, from Lorraine to Flanders. I have seen many
countrysides. I have lodged in many villages. Everywhere we have had a
marvellous reception, of a kind to make us forget the hardships that are
past, and grow strong for those to come.