year one thousand five hundred and sixty-four, the pacification and
conversion that has been made therein, their mode of governing, and
the provisions of his Majesty during these years for their welfare,
have caused innovations in many things, such as are usual to kingdoms
and provinces that change their religion and sovereign. The foremost
has been that, besides the name of Filipinas which all the islands
took and received from the beginning of their conquest, they belong
to a new kingdom and seigniory to which his Majesty, Filipo Second,
our sovereign, gave the name of Nuevo Reyno de Castilla ["New Kingdom
of Castilla"]. By his royal concession, he made the city of Manila
capital of it, and gave to it as a special favor, among other things,
a crowned coat-of-arms which was chosen and assigned by his royal
person. This is an escutcheon divided across. In the upper part is a
castle on a red field, and in the lower a lion of gold, crowned and
rampant, holding a naked sword in its right paw. One-half of the body
is in the form of a dolphin upon the waters of the sea, to signify
that the Spaniards crossed the sea with their arms to conquer this
kingdom for the crown of Castilla. [336]
The city of Manila was founded by the adelantado Miguel Lopez de
Legazpi, first governor of the Filipinas, in the island of Luzon. It
occupies the same site where Rajamora had his settlement and fort--as
has been related more at length--at the mouth of the river which
empties into the bay, on a point between the river and the sea. The
whole site was occupied by this new settlement, and Legazpi apportioned
it to the Spaniards in equal building-lots. It was laid out with
well-arranged streets and squares, straight and level. A sufficiently
large main square [Plaza mayor] was left, fronting which were erected
the cathedral church and municipal buildings. He left another square,
that of arms [Plaza de armas], fronting which was built the fort, as
well as the royal buildings. He gave sites for the monasteries, [337]
hospital, and chapels which were to be built, as being a city which
was to grow and increase continually--as already it has done; for,
in the course of the time that has passed, that city has flourished
as much as the best of all the cities in those regions.
The city is completely surrounded with a stone wall, which is more
than two and one-half varas wide, and in places more than three. It
has small towers and traverses at intervals. [338] It has a fortress
of hewn stone at the point that guards the bar and the river, with a
ravelin close to the water, upon which are mounted some large pieces
of artillery. This artillery commands the sea and river, while other
pieces are mounted farther up to defend the bar, besides some other
moderate-sized field-pieces and swivel-guns. These fortifications
have their vaults for storing supplies and munitions, and a magazine
for the powder, which is well guarded and situated in the inner
part; and a copious well of fresh water. There are also quarters
for the soldiers and artillerymen, and the house of the commandant
[alcayde]. The city has been lately fortified on the land side at the
Plaza de armas, where it is entered by a strong wall and two salient
towers, defended with artillery, which command the wall and gate. This
fortress is called Santiago, and has a company of thirty soldiers
with their officers, and eight artillerymen who guard the gate and
entrance by watches--all in charge of a commandant who lives inside,
and has the guard and custody of the fort.
There is another fortress, also of stone, in the same wall, within
culverin range, located at the end [339] of the curtain, which extends
along the shore of the bay. It is called Nuestra Señora de Guia, and
is a very large round tower. It has its own court, well, and quarters
inside, as well as the magazine, and other rooms for work. It has a
traverse extending to the beach, on which are mounted a dozen large and
moderate-sized pieces, which command the bay and sweep the wall, which
extends along the shore to the gate and to the fort of Santiago. On
the other side the fortress has a large salient tower, mounted with
four large pieces, which command the shore ahead in the direction of
the chapel of Nuestra Señora de Guia. The gate and entrance is within
the city and is guarded by a company of twenty soldiers and their
officers, six artillerymen, and one commandant and his lieutenant,
who live inside.
On the land side, where the wall extends, there is a rampart called
Sant Andres, which mounts six pieces of artillery that command in
all directions, and some swivel-guns. Farther on is another traverse
called San Gabriel, opposite the parián of the Sangleys, with a like
amount of artillery. Both have some soldiers and an ordinary guard.
The wall has a sufficient height, and is furnished with battlements and
turrets, built in the modern style, for its defense. It has a circuit
of about one legua, which can be made entirely on top. It has many
broad steps of the same hewn stone, at intervals inside. There are
three principal city gates on the land side, and many other posterns
opening at convenient places on the river and beach, for the service
of the city. Each and all of them are locked before nightfall by
the ordinary patrols. These carry the keys to the guard-room of the
royal buildings. In the morning when day comes, the patrols return
with the keys and open the city. [340]
The royal arsenals front on the Plaza de armas. In them are kept and
guarded all the supplies of ammunition, food, rigging, iron, copper,
lead, artillery, arquebuses, and other things belonging to the royal
estate. They have their own officers and workmen, and are placed in
charge of the royal officials.
Near these arsenals is located the powder-house, with its master,
workmen, and convicts, where powder is generally ground in thirty
mortars, and that which is spoiled is refined. [341]
The building for the founding of artillery is located on a suitable
site in another part of the city. It has its molds, ovens, and tools,
founders, and workmen who work it. [342]
The royal buildings are very beautiful and sightly, and contain many
rooms. They have many windows opening toward the sea and the Plaza
de armas. They are all built of stone and have two courts, with
upper and lower galleries raised on stout pillars. The governor and
president lives inside with his family. There is a hall for the royal
Audiencia, which is very large and stately; also a separate chapel,
a room for the royal seal, [343] and offices for the scriveners of the
Audiencia, and the government. There are also other apartments for the
royal treasury and the administration of the royal officials, while a
large porch opens on the street with two principal doors, where the
guardroom is located. There is one company of regular arquebusiers,
who come in daily with their banners to stand guard. Opposite, on the
other side of the street, is another edifice for the royal treasury
and those in charge of it. [344]
The houses of the cabildo, located on the square, are built of
stone. They are very sightly and have handsome halls. On the ground
floor is the prison, and the court of the alcaldes-in-ordinary. [345]
On the same square is situated the cathedral church. It is built
of hewn stone, and has three naves, and its main chapel, and choir,
with high and low seats. The choir is shut in by railings, and has
its organ, missal-stands, and other necessary things. The cathedral
has also its sacristan [346] and his apartments and offices.
Within the city is the monastery of St. Augustine. It is very large
and has many dormitories, a refectory and kitchens. They are now
completing a church, which is one of the most sumptuous in those
districts. This convent has generally fifty religious. [347]
The monastery of St. Dominic is inside the walls. It contains
about forty religious. It was built of stone, and was very well
constructed. It has a church, house, and all offices. It has lately
been rebuilt, and much better; for it was completely destroyed in
the burning of the city in the year six hundred and three.
The monastery of St. Francis is farther on. It is well constructed
of stone, and its church is being rebuilt. It contains about forty
discalced religious.
The residence [colegio] of the Society of Jesus is established near
the fortress of Nuestra Señora de Guia. It contains twenty religious
of their order, and is an excellent stone house and church. There
they study Latin, the arts, and cases of conscience. Connected with
them is a seminary and convictorio [348] for Spanish scholars, with
their rector. These students wear gowns of tawny-colored frieze with
red facings. [349]
In another part of the city stands a handsome house, walled in, with
its stone church, called San Andres and Santa Potenciana. It is a royal
foundation, and a rectoress lives there. It has a revolving entrance
and a parlor, and the rectoress has other confidential assistants;
and there shelter is given to needy women and girls of the city,
in the form of religious retirement. Some of the girls leave the
house to be married, while others remain there permanently. It has
its own house for work, and its choir. His Majesty assists them with
a portion of their maintenance; the rest is provided by their own
industry and property. They have their own steward and their priest,
who administers the sacraments to them. [350]
In another part is the royal hospital for Spaniards, with its
physician, apothecary, surgeons, managers, and servants. It and its
church are built of stone; and it has its sick rooms and the bed
service. In it all the Spaniards are treated. It is usually quite
full; it is under the royal patronage. His Majesty provides the most
necessary things for it. Three discalced religious of St. Francis
act there as superintendents, and they prove very advantageous for
the corporal and spiritual relief of the sick. It was burned in the
conflagration of the former year six hundred and three, and is now
being rebuilt.
There is another charitable hospital in charge of the Confraternity of
that name. It was founded in the city of Manila by the Confraternity
of La Misericordia of Lisboa, and by the other confraternities of
India. [351] It has apostolic bulls for works of charity, such as
burying the dead, supporting the modest poor, marrying orphans, and
relieving many necessities. There the slaves of the city are treated,
and lodgings are likewise provided for poor women.
Next to the monastery of St. Francis is located the hospital for
natives, [352] which is under royal patronage. It was founded with
alms, by a holy lay-brother of St. Francis, one Fray Joan Clemente. A
great many natives, suffering from all diseases, are treated there
with great care and attention. It has a good edifice and workrooms
built of stone. The discalced religious of St. Francis manage it;
and three priests and four lay-brothers, of exemplary life, live
there. These are the physicians, surgeons, and apothecaries of the
hospital, and are so skilful and useful, that they cause many marvelous
cures, both in medicine and in surgery.
The streets of the city are compactly built up with houses, mostly of
stone, although some are of wood. Many are roofed with clay tiling, and
others with nipa. They are excellent edifices, lofty and spacious, and
have large rooms and many windows, and balconies, with iron gratings,
that embellish them. More are daily being built and finished. There
are about six hundred houses within the walls, and a greater number,
built of wood, in the suburbs; and all are the habitations and homes
of Spaniards.
The streets, squares, and churches are generally filled with people
of all classes, especially Spaniards--all, both men and women,
clad and gorgeously adorned in silks. They wear many ornaments and
all kinds of fine clothes, because of the ease with which these are
obtained. Consequently this is one of the settlements most highly
praised, by the foreigners who resort to it, of all in the world,
both for the above reason, and for the great provision and abundance
of food and other necessaries for human life found there, and sold
at moderate prices.
Manila has two drives for recreation. One is by land, along the point
called Nuestra Señora de Guia. It extends for about a legua along
the shore, and is very clean and level. Thence it passes through a
native street and settlement, called Bagunbayan, to a chapel, much
frequented by the devout, called Nuestra Señora de Guia, and continues
for a goodly distance further to a monastery and mission-house of
the Augustinians, called Mahalat. [353]
The other drive extends through one of the city gates to a native
settlement, called Laguio, by which one may go to a chapel of San
Anton, and to a monastery and mission-house of discalced Franciscans,
a place of great devotion, near the city, called La Candelaria. [354]
This city is the capital of the kingdom and the head of the
government of all the islands. It is the metropolis of the other
cities and settlements of the islands. In it reside the Audiencia and
Chancillería of his Majesty, and the governor and captain-general of
the islands. [355]
Manila has a city cabildo with two alcaldes-in-ordinary, twelve
perpetual regidors, an alguaçil-mayor [i.e., chief constable], a royal
standard-bearer, the scrivener of the cabildo, and other officials.
The archbishop of the Filipinas Islands resides in this city. He has
his metropolitan church, and all the cathedral dignitaries--canons,
racioneros, medias racioneros, [356] chaplains, and sacristans--and a
music-choir, who chant to the accompaniment of the organ and of flutes
[ministriles]. The cathedral is quite ornate and well decorated,
and the Divine offices are celebrated there with the utmost gravity
and ceremony. As suffragans the cathedral has three bishops--namely,
in the island of Sebu, and in Cagayan and Camarines. [357]
There is a royal treasury with three royal officials--factor,
accountant, and treasurer--by whom the royal revenue of all the
islands is managed. [358]
The vessels sailing annually to Nueva España with the merchandise and
investments of all the islands are despatched from the city of Manila;
and they return thither from Nueva España with the proceeds of this
merchandise, and the usual reënforcements.
In the city is established the camp of the regular soldiers whom his
Majesty has had stationed in the islands.
Several galleys are also stationed at Manila with their general and
captains, as well as other war-vessels, of deep draft, and smaller
ones built like those used by the natives, to attend to the needs of
all the islands.
The majority of the vessels from China, Japon, Maluco, Borney, Sian,
Malaca, and India, that come to the Filipinas with their merchandise
and articles of trade, gather in the bay and river of Manila. In that
city they sell and trade for all the islands and their settlements.
In the province [of Cagayán] of this same island of Luzon was founded
the city of Segovia, [359] during the term of Don Gonçalo Ronquillo,
the third governor. It has two hundred Spanish inhabitants who live in
wooden houses on the shore of the Tajo River, two leguas from the sea
and port of Camalayuga. There is a stone fort near the city for the
defense of it and of the river. This fort mounts some artillery, and
has its own commandant. Besides the inhabitants, there are generally
one hundred regular soldiers, arquebusiers, and their officers. They
are all in charge and under command of the alcalde-mayor of the
province, who is its military commander.
In that city is established a bishop and his church, although at
present the latter has no dignitaries or prebendaries. [360] There
is a city cabildo consisting of two alcaldes, six regidors, and an
alguacil-mayor. The city abounds in all kinds of food and refreshment
at very cheap prices.
The city of Caçeres was founded in the province of Camarines of the
same island of Luzon, during the term of Doctor Sande, governor of
the Filipinas. It has about one hundred Spanish inhabitants; and
has its cabildo, consisting of alcaldes, regidors, and officials. A
bishop of that province is established there and has his church,
although without dignitaries or prebendaries. A monastery of discalced
Franciscans is located there. The government and military affairs of
that province are under one alcalde-mayor and war-captain, who resides
in Caçeres. The latter is a place abounding in and furnished with all
kinds of provisions, at very low rates. It is founded on the bank of
a river, four leguas inland from the sea, and its houses are of wood.
The fourth city is that called Santisimo Nombre de Jesus; it is located
in the island of Sebu, in the province of Bicayas or Pintados. It was
the first Spanish settlement and was founded by the adelantado Miguel
Lopez de Legazpi, the first governor. It is a fine seaport, whose water
is very clear and deep, and capable of holding many vessels. The city
has an excellent stone fort, which mounts a considerable quantity of
artillery, and which has its commandant and officers for the guard
and defense of the port and of the city. It is sufficiently garrisoned
with regulars, and is under command of the alcalde-mayor, the military
commander of the province, who lives in the city. The settlement
contains about two hundred Spanish inhabitants who live in houses
of wood. It has a cabildo, consisting of two alcaldes-in-ordinary,
eight regidors, and an alguacil-mayor and his officers. It has a
bishop and his church, like those of other cities of these islands,
without prebendaries. [361]
The city is provided with food by, and is a station for, the ships
going from Maluco to Manila. Through his Majesty's concession they keep
there a deep-draft merchant vessel, which generally leaves its port
for Nueva España, laden with the merchandise of the products gathered
in those provinces. It has a monastery of Augustinian religious and
a seminary of the Society of Jesus.
The town of Arevalo was founded on the island of Oton [Panay], during
the term of Don Gonçalo Ronquillo. [362] It contains about eighty
Spanish inhabitants, and is located close to the sea. It has a wooden
fort, which mounts some artillery, and a monastery of the Order of
St. Augustine; also a parish church, with its own vicar and secular
priest. This church belongs to the diocese of the Sebu bishopric.
It has a cabildo, consisting of alcaldes, regidors, and other
officials. There is one alcalde-mayor and military leader in those
provinces. The town is well supplied with all kinds of provisions,
sold at very low rates.
The settlement of Villa Fernandina, [363] which was founded in the
province of the Ilocos on the island of Luzon, is settled by Spaniards,
but very few of them remain there. It has a church, with its own vicar
and secular priest. Now no mention will be made of it, on account of
what has been said. The alcalde-mayor of the province resides there,
and the town is situated in the diocese of the Cagayan bishopric.
From the earliest beginning of the conquest and pacification of
the Filipinas Islands, the preaching of the holy gospel therein
and the conversion of the natives to our holy Catholic faith were
undertaken. The first to set hand to this task were the religious
of the Order of St. Augustine, who went there with the adelantado
Legazpi in the fleet of discovery, and those of the same order who
went afterward to labor in this work, and toiled therein with great
fervor and zeal. Thus, finding the harvest in good season, they
gathered the first fruits of it, and converted and baptized many
infidels throughout the said islands. [364]
Next to them in the fame of this conversion, the discalced religious
of the Order of St. Francis went to the islands by way of Nueva
España; then those of the Order of St. Dominic, and of the Society of
Jesus. [365] Lastly, the discalced Augustinian Recollects went. One and
all, after being established in the islands, worked in the conversion
and instruction of the natives. Consequently they have made--and
there are now in all the islands--a great number of baptized natives,
besides many others in many parts, who, for want of laborers, have been
put off, and are awaiting this blessing and priests to minister to
them. Hitherto there have been but few missions in charge of secular
priests, as not many of these have gone to the islands; and as very
few have been ordained there, for lack of students.
The Order of St. Augustine has many missions in the islands of Pintados
and has established and occupied monasteries and various visitas. [366]
In the island of Luzon, they have those of the province of Ylocos,
some in Pangasinan, and all those of La Pampanga--a large number of
monasteries; while in the province of Manila and its vicinity they
have others, which are flourishing.
The Order of St. Dominic has the missions of the province of Cagayan,
and others in the province of Pangasinan, where are many monasteries
and visitas. They also administer others about the city.
The Order of St. Francis has some missions and monasteries about
Manila, all the province of Camarines and the coast opposite, and La
Laguna de Bay. These include many missions.
The Society of Jesus has three large missions in the neighborhood
of Manila, which have many visitas. In the Pintados it has many
others on the islands of Sebu, Leite, Ybabao, Camar [Samar], Bohol,
and others near by. They have good men, who are solicitous for the
conversion of the natives.
These four orders have produced many good results in the conversion
of these islands, as above stated; and in good sooth the people
have taken firm hold of the faith, as they are a people of so good
understanding. They have recognized the errors of their paganism
and the truths of the Christian religion; and they possess good and
well-built churches and monasteries of wood with their reredoses and
beautiful ornaments, and all the utensils, crosses, candlesticks,
and chalices of silver and gold. Many devotions are offered, and there
are many confraternities. There is assiduity in taking the sacraments
and in attendance on the Divine services; and the people are careful
to entertain and support their religious (to whom they show great
obedience and respect) by the many alms that they give them, as well
as by those that they give for the suffrages and the burial of their
dead, which they provide with all punctuality and liberality.
At the same time that the religious undertook to teach the natives
the precepts of religion, they labored to instruct them in matters
of their own improvement, and established schools for the reading
and writing of Spanish among the boys. They taught them to serve in
the church, to sing the plain-song, and to the accompaniment of the
organ; to play the flute, to dance, and to sing; and to play the
harp, guitar, and other instruments. In this they show very great
adaptability, especially about Manila; where there are many fine
choirs of chanters and musicians composed of natives, who are skilful
and have good voices. There are many dancers, and musicians on the
other instruments which solemnize and adorn the feasts of the most
holy sacrament, and many other feasts during the year. The native
boys present dramas and comedies, both in Spanish and in their own
language, very charmingly. This is due to the care and interest of
the religious, who work tirelessly for the natives' advancement. [367]