OBSTACLE PRODUCED BY THE FEAR OF OSAGE HOSTILITY--MEANS
PURSUED TO OVERCOME IT--NATURAL MONUMENTS OF DENUDATION IN
THE LIMESTONE CLIFFS--PURITY OF THE WATER--PEBBLES OF
YELLOW JASPER--COMPLETE THE HUNTERS' CABINS--A JOB IN
JEWELLERY--CONSTRUCT A BLOWPIPE FROM CANE--WHAT IS THOUGHT
OF RELIGION.
Dec. 13th. Holt and Fisher were the highest occupants of the White river
valley. They had reached this spot about four months before, and had
brought their effects partly on pack-horses, and partly in canoes. The
site was judiciously chosen. A finer tract of rich river bottom could
not have been found, while the site commanded an illimitable region,
above and around it, for hunting the deer, buffalo, elk, and other
species, besides the beaver, otter, and small furred animals, which are
taken in traps. We tried, at first vainly, to persuade them to accompany
us in our further explorations. To this they replied that it was Osage
hunting-ground, and that tribe never failed to plunder and rob all
who fell in their power, particularly hunters and trappers. And besides,
they were but recent settlers, and had not yet completed their houses
and improvements.
As we were neither hunters nor trappers, we had no fears of Osage
hostility; for this was, in a measure, the just retribution of that
tribe for an intrusion on their lands, and the destruction of its game,
which constituted its chief value to them. Nor did we anticipate
encountering them at all, at this season, as they must have withdrawn,
long ere this, to their villages on the river Osage.
Dec. 14th. There appears no other way to induce the hunters to go with
us, but to aid them in completing their cottages and improvements. This
we resolved to do. Holt then agreed to accompany us as a guide and
huntsman, with the further stipulation that he was to have the horse
which had been left at M'Garey's, and a small sum of money, with liberty
also to undertake a journey to the settlements below for corn. Hereupon,
Fisher also consented to accompany us.
Dec. 15th. This obstacle to our movements being overcome, we busied
ourselves in rendering to the hunters all the assistance in our power,
and made it an object to show them that we could do this effectively. We
began by taking hold of the frow and axe, and aiding Holt to split
boards for covering a portion of the roof of his house. I doubt whether
my companion had ever done the like work before; I am sure I never had;
but having thrown myself on this adventure, I most cheerfully submitted
to all its adverse incidents.
Dec. 16th. This morning, Holt and Fisher--the latter accompanied by his
son, with three horses--set out on their journey to purchase corn,
leaving us, in the interim, to provide fuel for their families; a labor
by no means light, as the cold was now severe, and was daily growing
more intense. To-day, for the first time, we observed floating ice in
the river; and, even within the cabins, water exposed in vessels for a
few moments, acquired a thin coating of ice.
Dec. 17th. At daybreak we built a substantial, rousing fire in the
cabin, of logs several feet long; we then pounded the quantity of corn
necessary for the family's daily use. This process brings the article
into the condition of coarse grits, which are boiled soft, and it then
bears the name of homony. Of this nutritious dish our meals generally
consist, with boiled or fried bear's bacon, and a decoction of sassafras
tea. The fat of the bear is very white and delicate, and appears to be
more digestible than fresh pork, which is apt to cloy in the stomach.
After breakfast, wishing to give the hunters evidence of our capacity of
being useful, we took our axes and sallied out into the adjoining wood,
and began to fell the trees, cut them into proper lengths for firewood,
and pile the brush. About five o'clock, we were summoned to our second
meal, which is made to serve as dinner and supper. We then carried up
the quantity of firewood necessary for the night. This consumed the
remainder of the short December day; and, before lying down for the
night, we replenished the ample fire. This sketch may serve as an
outline of our daily industry, during the eleven days we tarried with
the hunters.
Dec. 18th. I have mentioned the fondness of my companion for tea. This
afternoon he thought to produce an agreeable surprise in our hostess's
mind, by preparing a dish of young hyson. But she sipped it as she would
have done the decoction of some bitter herb, and frankly confessed that
she did not like it as well as the forest substitutes, namely,
sassafras, dittany, and spicewood. And the manner in which she alluded
to it as "store tea," plainly denoted the article not to be numbered
among the wants of a hunter's life.
Dec. 19th. The river having been closed with ice within the last two
days, we crossed it this afternoon to visit the two pyramidal monuments
of geological denudation which mark the limestone range of the opposite
shore. I determined, if possible, to ascend one of them. The ascent lies
through a defile of rocks. By means of projections, which could
sometimes be reached by cedar roots, and now and then a leap or a
scramble, I succeeded in ascending one of them to near its apex, which
gave me a fine view of the windings of the river. The monuments consist
of stratified limestone, which has, all but these existing peaks,
crumbled under the effects of disintegration. I observed no traces of
organic remains. It appeared to be of the same general character with
the metalliferous beds of Missouri, and is, viewed in extenso, like
that, based on grey or cream-colored sand-rock. I found this limestone
rock cavernous, about seven miles below.
In crossing the river, I was impressed with the extreme purity of the
water. The ice near the cliffs having been formed during a calm night,
presented the crystalline purity of glass, through which every
inequality, pebble, and stone in its bed, could be plainly perceived.
The surface on which we stood was about an inch thick, bending as we
walked. The depth of water appeared to be five or six feet; but I was
told that it was fully twenty. The pebbles at this place are often a
small, pear-shaped, opaque, yellow jasper. They appear to have been
disengaged from some mineral bed at a higher point on the stream.
Dec. 20th. Observed as a day of rest, it being the Sabbath. The
atmosphere is sensibly milder, and attended with haziness, which appears
to betoken rain.
Dec. 21st. We employed ourselves till three o'clock in hewing and
splitting planks for Holt's cabin floor, when rain compelled us to
desist.
The following circumstance recently occurred here: Two hunters had a
dispute about a horse, which it was alleged one had stolen from the
other; the person aggrieved, meeting the other some days after in the
woods, shot him dead. He immediately fled, keeping the woods for several
weeks; when the neighboring hunters, aroused by so glaring an outrage,
assembled and set out in quest of him. Being an expert woodsman, the
offender eluded them for some time; but at last they obtained a glimpse
of him as he passed through a thicket, when one of his pursuers shot him
through the shoulder, but did not kill him. This event happened a few
days before our arrival in this region. It will probably be the cause of
several murders, before the feud is ended.
Dec. 22d. The rain having ceased, we resumed and completed our job of
yesterday at Holt's. The atmosphere is hazy, damp, and warm.
My medical skill had not been called on since the affair at the Four
Bear creek, where my companion sprained his ankle. The child of Mrs.
Holt was taken ill with a complaint so manifestly bilious, that I gave
it relief by administering a few grains of calomel. This success led to
an application from her neighbor, Mrs. F., whose delicate situation made
the responsibility of a prescription greater. This also proved
favorable, and I soon had other applicants.
Dec. 23d. About ten o'clock this morning, Holt and Fisher returned,
laden with corn. The day was mild and pleasant, the severity of the
atmosphere having moderated, and the sky become clear and bright. They
appeared to be pleased with the evidences of our thrift and industry
during their absence, and we now anticipated with pleasure an early
resumption of our journey. To this end, we were resolved that nothing
should be wanting on our part. We had already faithfully devoted seven
days to every species of labor that was necessary to advance their
improvements.
Dec. 24th. I had yesterday commenced hewing out a table for Holt's
domicile, from a fine, solid block of white-ash. I finished the task
to-day, to the entire admiration of all. We now removed our lodgings
from Fisher's to Holt's, and employed the remainder of the day in
chinking and daubing his log house.
Of these two men, who had pushed themselves to the very verge of western
civilization, it will be pertinent to say, that their characters were
quite different. Holt was the better hunter, and more social and ready
man. He was quick with the rifle, and suffered no animal to escape him.
Fisher was of a more deliberative temperament, and more inclined to
surround himself with the reliances of agriculture. He was also the
better mechanic, and more inclined to labor. Holt hated labor like an
Indian, and, like an Indian, relied for subsistence on the chase
exclusively. Fisher was very superstitious, and a believer in
witchcraft. Holt was scarcely a believer in anything, but was ever ready
for action. He could talk a little Chickasaw, and had several of their
chansons, which he sung. Both men had kept for years moving along on the
outer frontiers, ever ready for a new remove; and it was plain enough,
to the listener to their tales of wild adventure, that they had not been
impelled, thus far, on the ever advancing line of border life, from the
observance of any of the sterner virtues or qualities of civilized
society. There were occasions in their career, if we may venture an
opinion, when to shoot a deer, or to shoot a man, were operations that
could be performed "agreeably to circumstances." To us, however, they
were uniformly kind, frank, friendly; for, indeed, there was no possible
light in which our interests were brought in conflict. We were no
professed hunters, and our journey into the Ozark hunting-grounds was an
advantage to them, by making them better acquainted with the geography
of their position.
They could not quit home on such a journey, however, without leaving
some meat for their families; and they both set out to-day for this
purpose. It appeared that they had, some days before, killed on a river
bottom, about twelve miles above this point in the river valley, a
buffalo, a bear, and a panther; but, not having horses with them, had
scaffolded the carcases of the two former. Notwithstanding this
precaution, the wolves had succeeded in reaching the buffalo meat, and
had partly destroyed it. The carcase of the bear was safe. They returned
in the afternoon with their trophies. They also brought down some of the
leg-bones of the buffalo, for the sake of their marrow. They are boiled
in water, to cook the marrow, and then cracked open. The quantity of
marrow is immense. It is eaten while hot, with salt. We thought it
delicious.
We learn by conversing with the hunters that a high value is set upon
the dog, and that they are sought with great avidity. We heard of one
instance where a cow was given for a good hunting dog.
Dec. 25th, Christmas day. At our suggestion, the hunters went out to
shoot some turkeys for a Christmas dinner, and, after a couple of hours'
absence, returned with fourteen. In the meantime, we continued our
labors in completing the house.
I prevailed on our hostess, to-day, to undertake a turkey-pie, with a
crust of Indian meal; and, the weather being mild, we partook of it
under the shade of a tree, on the banks of the river.
Dec. 26th. Having now obviated every objection, and convinced the
hunters that no dangers were to be apprehended at this late season from
the Osages, and having completed the preparations for the tour,
to-morrow is fixed on as the time of starting.
Our hostess mentioned to me that she had a brass ring, which she had
worn for many years, and declared it to be an infallible remedy for the
cramp, with which she had been much afflicted before putting it on, but
had not had the slightest return of it since. She was now much
distressed on account of having lately broken it; and, observing the
care I bestowed on my mineralogical packages, she thought I must possess
skill in such affairs, and solicited me to mend it. It was in vain that
I represented that I had no blowpipe or other necessary apparatus for
the purpose. She was convinced I could do it, and I was unwilling to
show a disobliging disposition by refusing to make the attempt. I
therefore contrived to make a blowpipe by cutting several small pieces
of cane, and fitting one into the other until the aperture was drawn
down to the required degree of fineness. A hollow cut in a billet of
wood, and filled with live hickory coals, answered instead of a lamp;
and with a small bit of silver money, and a little borax applied to the
broken ring, with my wooden blowpipe, I soon soldered it, and afterwards
filed off the redundant silver with a small file. I must remark that the
little file and bit of borax, without which the job could not have been
accomplished, was produced from the miscellaneous housewife of my
hostess.
Dec. 27th. Rain, which began at night, rendered it impossible to think
of starting to-day. It was the Sabbath, and was improved as a time of
rest and reflection. I took the occasion to make some allusions, in a
gentle and unobtrusive way, to the subject, and, in connection with some
remarks which one of my entertainers had made a few days previously, on
the subject of religion generally, condense the following
observations:--He said that while living on the banks of the
Mississippi, a few years ago, he occasionally attended religious
meetings, and thought them a very good thing; but he had found one of
the preachers guilty of a gross fraud, and determined never to go again.
He thought that a man might be as good without going to church as with
it, and that it seemed to him to be a useless expenditure, &c.; very
nearly, indeed, the same kind of objections which are made by careless
and unbelieving persons everywhere, I fancy, _in_ the woods or _out_ of
them.
The hardships of the hunter's life fall heavily on females. Mrs. Holt
tells me that she has not lived in a floored cabin for several
years--that during this period they have changed their abode many
times--and that she has lost four children, who all died under two
years.