HORSES ELOPE--DESERTION OF OUR GUIDE--ENCAMP ON ONE OF THE
SOURCES OF BLACK RIVER--HEAD-WATERS OF THE RIVER CURRENTS
--ENTER A ROMANTIC SUB-VALLEY--SALTPETRE CAVES--DESCRIPTION
OF ASHLEY'S CAVE--ENCAMPMENT THERE--ENTER AN ELEVATED SUMMIT
--CALAMARCA, AN UNKNOWN STREAM--ENCOUNTER FOUR BEARS--NORTH
FORK OF WHITE RIVER.
Nov. 10th. While we laid on our pallets last night, the trampling of
hoofs was frequently heard; but at length the practised ear of the
hunter detected that these were the sounds of wild animals' hoofs, and
not of our horses. This man's eye had shown an unwonted degree of
restlessness and uneasiness during the afternoon of the preceding day,
while witnessing the abundant signs of deer and elk in the country; but
this excited no suspicions. He was restless during the night, and was
disturbed at a very early hour, long before light, by this trampling of
animals. These sounds, he said to me, did not proceed from the horses,
which were hobbled. He got up, and found both animals missing. Butcher's
memory of corn and corn-fodder, at his old master's at Potosi, had not
yet deserted him, and he carried the hunter's horse along with him. I
immediately jumped up, and accompanied him in their pursuit. There was
some moonlight, with clouds rapidly passing. We pursued our back-track,
anxiously looking from every eminence, and stopping to listen for the
sound of the bells. Roberts occasionally took up a handful of leaves,
which were thickly strewn around, and held them up in the moonlight, to
see whether the corks of the horses' shoes had not penetrated them. When
he finally found this sign, he was sure we were in the right way. At
length, when we had gone several miles, and reached an eminence that
overlooked the broad plain of the Valley of Leaves, we plainly descried
the fugitives, jumping on as fast as possible on the way back. We soon
overhauled them, and brought them to camp by daybreak, before my
companion had yet awaked.
Roberts now sallied out, and in a few minutes fired at and killed a fat
doe, which he brought in, and we made a breakfast by roasting steaks.
Roberts had expressed no dissatisfaction or desire to return, but,
sallying out again among the deer on horseback, said he would rejoin us
presently, at a future point. We travelled on, expecting at every turn
to see him reappear. But we saw no more of him. The rascal had not only
deserted us at a difficult point, but he carried off my best new
hunting-knife--a loss not to be repaired in such a place.
We at length came to a point where the trail forked. This put us to a
stand. Which to take, we knew not; and the result was of immense
consequence to our journey, as we afterwards found; for, had we taken
the right-hand fork, we should have been conducted in a more direct line
to the portions of country we sought to explore. We took the left-hand
fork, which we followed diligently, crossing several streams running to
the north-west, which were probably tributary to the Missouri through
the Gasconade. It was after dark before we came to a spot having the
requisites for an encampment, particularly water. It was an opening on
the margin of a small lake, having an outlet south-east, which we
finally determined to be either one of the sources of the Black river,
or of the river Currents.
We had now travelled about twenty miles from our last camp, in a
southerly direction. We did not entirely relinquish the idea of being
rejoined by Roberts, nor become fully satisfied of his treachery, till
late in the evening. We had relied on his guidance till we should be
able to reach some hunters' camps on the White or Arkansas rivers; but
this idea was henceforth abandoned. Left thus, on the commencement of
our journey, in the wilderness, without a guide or hunter, we were
consigned to a doubtful fate; our extrication from which depended
wholly upon a decision and self-reliance, which he only knows how to
value, who is first called to grapple with the hardships of western
life.
It was the edge of a prairie where we had halted. Wood was rather
scarce; but we made shift to build a good fire, and went to sleep with
no object near us, to excite sympathy, but our horse, who was securely
belled and tethered. When we awoke in the morning, the fire was out, and
a pack of wolves were howling within a few hundred yards of our camp.
Whether the horse feared them, I know not; but he had taken his position
near the embers of the fire, where he stood quite still.
Nov. 11th. In passing two miles, we crossed a small stream running
south-east, which evidently had its source in the little lake at our
last night's encampment. The trail beyond this was often faint; in the
course of eight or ten miles, we began to ascend elevations covered with
pines, but of so sterile and hard a soil, that we lost all trace of it.
We wound about among these desolate pine ridges a mile or two, till,
from one of the higher points, we descried a river in a deep valley,
having a dense forest of hard wood, and every indication of animal life.
Overjoyed at this, we mended our pace, and, by dint of great caution,
led our pack-horse into it. It proved to be the river Currents, a fine
stream, with fertile banks, and clear sparkling waters. The
grey-squirrel was seen sporting on its shady margin, and, as night
approached, the wild turkey came in from the plains to drink, and make
its nightly abode. After fording the river, we soon found our lost
trail, which we followed a while up the stream, then across a high ridge
which constituted its southern banks, and through dense thickets to the
summits of a narrow, deep, and dark limestone valley, which appeared to
be an abyss. Daylight left us as we wound down a gorge into its dreary
precincts; and we no sooner found it traversed by a clear brook, than we
determined to encamp. As the fire flashed up, it revealed on either side
steep and frowning cliffs, which might gratify the wildest spirit of
romance. This stream, with its impending cavernous cliffs, I designated
the Wall-cave or Ononda valley.
We had advanced this day about eighteen or twenty miles. We had an
opportunity, while on the skirts of the high prairie lands, to fire at
some elk, and to observe their stately motions; but, being still
supplied with venison, we were not willing to waste the time in pursuing
them. Our course varied from south to south-west.
Nov. 12th. Daylight fully revealed our position. We were in a valley,
often not more than six hundred feet wide, with walls of high
precipitous limestone rock. These cliffs were remarkable for nothing so
much as their caverns, seated uniformly at a height of forty or fifty
feet above the ground, in inaccessible positions. I do not know the
number of these caves, as we did not count them; but they existed on
either side of the valley as far as we explored it. Most of them were
too high to reach. A tree had fallen against the cliff near one of them,
by climbing which I reached a small ledge of the rock that afforded a
little footing, and, by cautiously groping along, the orifice was
finally reached and entered. It proved interesting, although of no great
extent; but it contained stalactites depending in clusters from the
walls. Of these, I secured a number which were translucent. Slender
crystals of nitrate of potash, of perfect whiteness and crystalline
beauty, were found in some of the crevices. Having secured specimens of
these, I again got out on the ledge of rock, and, reaching the tree,
descended in safety.
About half a mile higher up the valley, on its south side, we discovered
a cavern of gigantic dimensions. The opening in the face of the rock
appeared to be about eighty or ninety feet wide, and about thirty high.
A projection of rock on one side enabled us to enter it. A vast and
gloomy rotundo opened before us. It very soon, after the entry,
increases in height to sixty or seventy feet, and in width to one
hundred and fifty or two hundred feet, forming an immense hall. This
hall has another opening or corridor, leading to a precipitous part of
the cliff. It extends into the rock, southerly, an unexplored distance,
branching off in lateral avenues from the main trunk. We explored the
main gallery five or six hundred yards, when we found obstructions. The
roof has been blackened by the carbonaceous effect of fires, kindled by
Indians or white men, who have visited it, in former years, in search of
nitrous earth. In some parts of it, compact bodies of pebbles and
reddish clay, very similar to that found on the cliffs, are seen, which
creates an idea that the cavern must have been an open orifice at the
geological era of the diluvial deposits. This earth, by being lixiviated
with common house-ashes, produces a liquid which, on evaporation, yields
saltpetre. The cave, I was informed at Potosi, has been visited for this
purpose by Colonel Ashley, and it appropriately bears his name. Finding
it a perfect "rock-house," and being dry, and affording advantages for
some necessary repairs to our gear, and arrangements for the further
continuation of our explorations, we, about four o'clock in the
afternoon, removed our camp up the valley, and encamped within it. We
could shelter ourselves completely in its capacious chambers in case of
rain, of which there were indications, and take a calm view of the
course it seemed now expedient to pursue. Thus far, we had had a trail,
however slight, to follow; but from this point there was none--we were
to plunge into the pathless woods, and to trust ourselves alone to the
compass, and the best judgment we could form of courses, distances, and
probabilities. A wilderness lay before us, behind us, and around us. We
had "taken our lives in our hands," and we were well satisfied that our
success must depend on our vigilance, energy, and determination. In
addition to the exertion of providing food, and repairing our clothing,
which, as we urged our way, was paying tribute to every sharp bush we
pressed through, we had to exercise a constant vigilance to prevent
Indian surprises; for experience had already taught us that, in the
wilderness, where there is no law to impose restraint but the moral law
of the heart, man is the greatest enemy of man.
Nov. 13th. The threatening appearance of the atmosphere induced us to
remain most of the day in our rock-house, which was devoted to devising
a more safe and compact mode of carrying specimens, to repairs of our
pack-saddles, a reconstruction of the mode of packing, &c. We then made
a further reconnoissance of the cavern, and its vicinity and
productions. I had paid particular attention to the subject of the
occurrence of animal bones in our western caves, as those of Europe had
recently excited attention; but never found any, in a single instance,
except the species of existing weasels, and other very small quadrupeds,
which are to be traced about these castellated and cavernous cliffs. As
evening approached, a flock of turkeys, coming in from the plain to the
top of the cliff above the cavern, flew down on to the trees directly in
front of us, sheltered as we were from their sight, and afforded a fine
opportunity for the exercise of our sportsmanship.
Nov. 14th. The rain which had threatened to fall yesterday, poured down
this morning, and continued with more or less violence all day. Our
packages, clothing, arms and accoutrements, were thoroughly overhauled
and examined. We had still supplies of everything essential to our
comfort. Our bacon had not been seriously trenched on, while the forest
had amply supplied us with venison, and our groceries bade fair to last
us till we should strike some of the main southern streams, or till our
increasing powers of endurance and forest skill should enable us to do
without them.
Nov. 15th. This morning, the sky being clear and bright, we left our
rock abode in the Wall-cave valley. We ascended this valley a short
distance, but, as it led us too far west, and the brush proved so thick
as to retard our progress, we soon left it. With some ado, the horse was
led to the top of the cliff. A number of lateral valleys, covered with
thick brush, made this a labor by no means light. The surface of the
ground was rough, vegetation sere and dry, and every thicket which
spread before us presented an obstacle which was to be overcome. We
could have penetrated many of these, which the horse could not be forced
through. Such parts of our clothing as did not consist of buckskin, paid
frequent tribute to these brambles.
At length we got clear of these spurs, and entered on a high
table-land, where travelling became comparatively easy. The first view
of this vista of highland plains was magnificent. It was covered with
moderate-sized sere grass and dry seed-pods, which rustled as we passed.
There was scarcely an object deserving the name of a tree, except now
and then a solitary trunk of a dead pine or oak, which had been scathed
by the lightning. The bleached bones of an elk, a deer, or a bison, were
sometimes met. Occasionally we passed a copse of oak, or cluster of
saplings. The deer often bounded before us, and we sometimes disturbed
the hare from its sheltering bush, or put to flight the quail and the
prairie-hen. There was no prominent feature in the distance for the eye
to rest on. The unvaried prospect at length produced satiety. We felt,
in a peculiar manner, the solitariness of the wilderness. We travelled
silently and diligently. It was a dry and wave-like prairie. From
morning till sunset, we did not encounter a drop of water. This became
the absorbing object. Hill after hill, and vale after vale, were
patiently ascended, and diligently footed, without bringing the expected
boon. At last we came, suddenly and unexpectedly, to a small running
stream in the plain, where we gladly encamped. I quickly struck up a
cheerful fire, and we soon had a cup of tea with our evening's repast.
Nor was Butcher neglected. There was a patch of short green grass on the
margin of the brook, to which he did ample justice. We were not long
after supper in yielding ourselves to a sound sleep.
While we were in the act of encamping, I had placed my powder-flask on
the ground, and, on lighting the fire, neglected to remove it. As the
plain was covered with dry leaves, they soon took fire, and burned over
a considerable space, including the spot occupied by myself and the
flask. The latter was a brass-mounted shooting-flask, of translucent
horn, having a flaw through which grains of powder sometimes escaped.
Yet no explosion took place. I looked and beheld the flask, which the
fire had thus run over, very near me, with amazement.
Nov. 16th. We were now on an elevated summit of table-land or
water-shed, which threw its waters off alternately to the Missouri and
Mississippi. It was covered with high, coarse, prairie grass, and its
occasional nodding clusters of prairie flowers run to seed. In depressed
places, the greenbriar occasionally became entangled with the horse's
feet, and required time to extricate him. We very frequently passed the
head and thigh-bones of the buffalo, proving that the animal had been
freely hunted on these plains. In the course of about eight miles'
travel, we passed two small streams running to the north-west, which led
us to think that we were diverging too far towards the Missouri side of
this vast highland plateau. It was still some hours to sunset, and we
had gone about four miles farther when we reached a large, broad stream,
also flowing towards the north-west. It had a rapid and deep current, on
each side of which was a wide space of shallow water, and boulders of
limestone and sandstone. It required some skill to cross this river, as
it was too deep to ford. The horse was led into the edge of the stream
and driven over, coming out with his pack safely on the other side. The
shallow parts offered no obstacle; and we bridged the deeper portion of
the channel with limbs and trunks of trees, which had been brought down
by the stream when in flood and left upon its banks, and, being denuded
of their bark, were light and dry, and as white as bleached bones.
I had crossed the channel safely, after my companion; but he disturbed
the bridge on stepping from it, and caused me to slip from the stick.
Having my gun in my right hand, I naturally extended it, to break my
fall. Each end of it, as it reached the stream, rested on a stone, and,
my whole weight being in the centre, the barrel was slightly sprung.
This bridge, for the purpose of reference, I called Calamarca. After
crossing the stream, we came to a stand, and, on consultation, explored
it downward, to determine its general course; but, finding it to incline
toward the north-west, we returned up its southern bank two or three
miles above our rustic bridge, and encamped.
Nov. 17th. In the morning we proceeded in a south-south-westerly
direction, which, after keeping up the valley from the camp of
Calamarca for a few miles, carried us up an elevated range of hills,
covered with large oaks bearing acorns. We had reached the top of a
ridge which commanded a view of a valley beyond it, when we observed,
far below us in the valley, four bears on an oak, eating sweet acorns.
The descent was steep and rough, with loose stones, which made it
impossible to lead the horse down without disturbing them. We therefore
tied him to a staddle, and, after looking to our priming, we began to
descend the height. But, as the leaves had all fallen, concealment was
impossible; and when the animals became alarmed, and began to come down
the tree, we ran at our utmost speed to reach its foot first. In this
effort, my companion fell on the loose stones, and sprained his ankle; I
kept on, but did not reach the foot of the tree in time to prevent their
escape, and I followed them some distance. When my companion's absence
led me back to him, I found him badly hurt; he limped along with the
utmost difficulty. I soon mounted him on the pack-horse, and led up the
little valley; but the pain of his ankle became so intense, that he
could not bear the motion, and, after proceeding a mile or two, we
determined to halt and encamp. We had not travelled from our morning's
encampment more than five or six miles. I accordingly unpacked the
horse, prepared a pallet for my companion, and built a fire. I then
bathed his ankle with salt and warm water. This done, I took my gun, and
sauntered along the thickets in the hope of starting some game. Nothing,
however, was found. The shrill and unmusical cry of the bluejay, which
was the largest bird I saw, reminded me of other latitudes. Thoughtful,
and full of apprehension at this untoward accident, I returned to our
little camp, and diligently renewed my antalgic applications.
Nov. 18th. A night's rest, and the little remedies in my power to
employ, had so far abated the pain of my companion's ankle, that he
again consented to mount the pack-horse, and we pursued our way up the
little valley in which we had encamped. We had not, however, travelled
far, when we saw two large black bears playing in the grass before us,
and so intently engaged in their sport that they did not observe us. My
companion, with my aid, quickly dismounted. We examined our arms, tied
the horse, and, having determined to fire together, had reached our
several stations before the animals noticed our approach. They at first
ran a few yards, but then turned and sat up in the high, sere grass, to
see what had disturbed them. We fired at the same moment, each having
singled out his mark. Both animals fled, but on reaching the spot where
the one I fired at had sat, blood was copiously found on the grass. I
pursued him and his mate over an adjoining ridge, where I lost sight of
them; but discovering, on crossing the ridge, a hollow oak, into which I
judged they had crept, I went back for the axe to fell it. While engaged
at this, my companion hobbled up, and relieved me at the axe. The tree
at length came down with a thundering crash, partially splitting in its
fall, and I stood ready with my gun to receive the discomfited inmates;
but, after gazing intently for a time, none appeared. It was now evident
they had eluded us, and that we had lost the track. The excitement had
almost cured my companion's lameness; but it returned when the pursuit
was over, and, resuming his position on the horse, we proceeded over a
succession of high, oak-covered ridges. In crossing one of these, a
large and stately elk offered another object for our notice. He had an
enormous pair of horns, which it seemed he must find it difficult to
balance in browsing; but the moment he became aware of our propinquity,
he lifted his head, and, throwing back the antlers, they seemed to form
shields for his shoulders and sides while plunging forward through the
thickets. We stood a moment to admire his splendid leaps.
These incidents had carried us a few miles out of our course. We were on
high broken summits, which resembled, in their surface, what may be
conceived of the tossing waves of a sea suddenly congealed. On
descending from these towards the south, we came to clumps of bushes,
with gravelly areas between, and an occasional standing pool of pure
water. It was very evident to our minds, as we advanced, that these
pools must communicate with each other through the gravel, and that
there were seasons when there was more water washed from the hills. On
following down this formation about six miles, the connection became
more evident, and the sources of an important river developed
themselves. We were, in fact, on the extreme head-waters of the Great
North Fork of White river; the Unica of the Cherokees, and the _Riviere
au Blanc_ of the French. The manner in which the waters develop
themselves on descending the southern slope of these highlands, is
remarkable. They proceed in plateaux or steps, on each of which the
stream deploys in a kind of lake, or elongated basin, connected with the
next succeeding one by a narrow rapid. The rock is a grey sandstone in
the lower situations, capped with limestone. In some places the water
wholly disappears, and seems to permeate the rock. We came to a place
where the river, being some four feet deep, is entirely absorbed by the
rock, and does not again appear till a mile below, where it suddenly
issues from the rock, in its original volume.