Aranjuez—A Warning—A Night Adventure—A Fresh
Expedition—Segovia—Abades—Factious Curas—Lopez in Prison—Rescue of Lopez.
The success which had attended our efforts in the Sagra of Toledo
speedily urged me on to a new enterprise. I now determined to direct my
course to La Mancha, and to distribute the word amongst the villages of
that province. Lopez, who had already performed such important services
in the Sagra, had accompanied us to Madrid, and was eager to take part in
this new expedition. We determined in the first place to proceed to
Aranjuez, where we hoped to obtain some information which might prove of
utility in the further regulation of our movements; Aranjuez being but a
slight distance from the frontier of La Mancha and the high road into
that province passing directly through it. We accordingly sallied forth
from Madrid, selling from twenty to forty Testaments in every village
which lay in our way, until we arrived at Aranjuez, to which place we had
forwarded a large supply of books.
A lovely spot is Aranjuez, though in desolation: here the Tagus flows
through a delicious valley, perhaps the most fertile in Spain; and here
upsprang, in Spain’s better days, a little city, with a small but
beautiful palace shaded by enormous trees, where royalty delighted to
forget its cares. Here Ferdinand the Seventh spent his latter days,
surrounded by lovely señoras and Andalusian bull-fighters: but as the
German Schiller has it in one of his tragedies:
“The happy days in fair Aranjuez,
Are past and gone.”
When the sensual king went to his dread account, royalty deserted it, and
it soon fell into decay. Intriguing courtiers no longer crowd its halls;
its spacious circus, where Manchegan bulls once roared in rage and agony,
is now closed, and the light tinkling of guitars is no longer heard
amidst its groves and gardens.
At Aranjuez I made a sojourn of three days, during which time Antonio,
Lopez, and myself visited every house in the town. We found a vast deal
of poverty and ignorance amongst the inhabitants, and experienced some
opposition: nevertheless it pleased the Almighty to permit us to dispose
of about eighty Testaments, which were purchased entirely by the very
poor people; those in easier circumstances paying no attention to the
word of God, but rather turning it to scoff and ridicule.
One circumstance was very gratifying and cheering to me, namely, the
ocular proof which I possessed that the books which I had disposed of
were read, and with attention, by those to whom I sold them; and that
many others participated in their benefit. In the streets of Aranjuez,
and beneath the mighty cedars and gigantic elms and plantains which
compose its noble woods, I have frequently seen groups assembled
listening to individuals who, with the New Testament in their hands, were
reading aloud the comfortable words of salvation.
It is probable that, had I remained a longer period at Aranjuez, I might
have sold many more of these divine books, but I was eager to gain La
Mancha and its sandy plains, and to conceal myself for a season amongst
its solitary villages, for I was apprehensive that a storm was gathering
around me; but when once through Ocaña, the frontier town, I knew well
that I should have nothing to fear from the Spanish authorities, as their
power ceased there, the rest of La Mancha being almost entirely in the
hands of the Carlists, and overrun by small parties of banditti, from
whom, however, I trusted that the Lord would preserve me. I therefore
departed for Ocaña, distant three leagues from Aranjuez.
I started with Antonio at six in the evening, having early in the morning
sent forward Lopez with between two and three hundred Testaments. We
left the high road, and proceeded by a shorter way through wild hills and
over very broken and precipitous ground: being well mounted we found
ourselves just after sunset opposite Ocaña, which stands on a steep hill.
A deep valley lay between us and the town: we descended, and came to a
small bridge, which traverses a rivulet at the bottom of the valley, at a
very small distance from a kind of suburb. We crossed the bridge, and
were passing by a deserted house on our left hand, when a man appeared
from under the porch.
What I am about to state will seem incomprehensible, but a singular
history and a singular people are connected with it: the man placed
himself before my horse so as to bar the way, and said “_Schophon_,”
which, in the Hebrew tongue, signifies a rabbit. I knew this word to be
one of the Jewish countersigns, and asked the man if he had any thing to
communicate? He said, “You must not enter the town, for a net is
prepared for you. The corregidor of Toledo, on whom may all evil light,
in order to give pleasure to the priests of Maria, in whose face I spit,
has ordered all the alcaldes of these parts, and the escribanos and the
corchetes to lay hands on you wherever they may find you, and to send
you, and your books, and all that pertains to you to Toledo. Your
servant was seized this morning in the town above, as he was selling the
writings in the streets, and they are now awaiting your arrival in the
posada; but I knew you from the accounts of my brethren, and I have been
waiting here four hours to give you warning in order that your horse may
turn his tail to your enemies, and neigh in derision of them. Fear
nothing for your servant, for he is known to the alcalde, and will be set
at liberty, but do you flee, and may God attend you.” Having said this,
he hurried towards the town.
I hesitated not a moment to take his advice, knowing full well that, as
my books had been taken possession of, I could do no more in that
quarter. We turned back in the direction of Aranjuez, the horses,
notwithstanding the nature of the ground, galloping at full speed; but
our adventures were not over. Midway, and about half a league from the
village of Antigola, we saw close to us on our left hand three men on a
low bank. As far as the darkness would permit us to distinguish, they
were naked, but each bore in his hand a long gun. These were rateros, or
the common assassins and robbers of the roads. We halted and cried out,
“Who goes there?” They replied, “What’s that to you? pass by.” Their
drift was to fire at us from a position from which it would be impossible
to miss. We shouted, “If you do not instantly pass to the right side of
the road, we will tread you down between the horses’ hoofs.” They
hesitated and then obeyed, for all assassins are dastards, and the least
show of resolution daunts them. As we galloped past, one cried, with an
obscene oath, “Shall we fire?” But another said, “No, no! there’s
danger.” We reached Aranjuez, where early next morning Lopez rejoined
us, and we returned to Madrid.
I am sorry to state that two hundred Testaments were seized at Ocaña,
from whence, after being sealed up, they were despatched to Toledo.
Lopez informed me, that in two hours he could have sold them all, the
demand was so great. As it was, twenty-seven were disposed of in less
than ten minutes.
“Ride on because of the word of righteousness.” Notwithstanding the
check which we had experienced at Ocaña, we were far from being
discouraged, and forthwith prepared ourselves for another expedition. As
we returned from Aranjeuz to Madrid, my eyes had frequently glanced
towards the mighty wall of mountains dividing the two Castiles, and I
said to myself, “Would it not be well to cross those hills, and commence
operations on the other side, even in Old Castile? There I am unknown,
and intelligence of my proceedings can scarcely have been transmitted
thither. Peradventure the enemy is asleep, and before he has roused
himself, I may have sown much of the precious seed amongst the villages
of the Old Castilians. To Castile, therefore, to Castile la Vieja!”
Accordingly, on the day after my arrival, I despatched several cargoes of
books to various places which I proposed to visit, and sent forward Lopez
and his donkey, well laden, with directions to meet me on a particular
day beneath a particular arch of the aqueduct of Segovia. I likewise
gave him orders to engage any persons willing to co-operate with us in
the circulation of the Scriptures, and who might be likely to prove of
utility in the enterprise. A more useful assistant than Lopez in an
expedition of this kind it was impossible to have. He was not only well
acquainted with the country, but had friends, and even connexions on the
other side of the hills, in whose houses he assured me that we should at
all times find a hearty welcome. He departed in high spirits,
exclaiming, “Be of good cheer, Don Jorge; before we return we will have
disposed of every copy of your evangelic library. Down with the friars!
Down with superstition! Viva Ingalaterra, viva el Evangelio!”
In a few days I followed with Antonio. We ascended the mountains by the
pass called Peña Cerrada, which lies about three leagues to the eastward
of that of Guadarama. It is very unfrequented, the high road between the
two Castiles passing through Guadarama. It has, moreover, an evil name,
being, according to common report, infested with banditti. The sun was
just setting when we reached the top of the hills, and entered a thick
and gloomy pine forest, which entirely covers the mountains on the side
of Old Castile. The descent soon became so rapid and precipitous, that
we were fain to dismount from our horses and to drive them before us.
Into the woods we plunged deeper and deeper still; night-birds soon began
to hoot and cry, and millions of crickets commenced their shrill chirping
above, below, and around us. Occasionally, amidst the trees at a
distance, we could see blazes, as if from immense fires. “They are those
of the charcoal-burners, mon maître!” said Antonio; “we will not go near
them, however, for they are savage people, and half bandits. Many is the
traveller whom they have robbed and murdered in these horrid
wildernesses.”
It was blackest night when we arrived at the foot of the mountains; we
were still, however, amidst woods and pine forests, which extended for
leagues in every direction. “We shall scarcely reach Segovia to-night,
mon maître,” said Antonio. And so indeed it proved, for we became
bewildered, and at last arrived where two roads branched off in different
directions, we took not the left hand road, which would have conducted us
to Segovia, but turned to the right, in the direction of La Granja, where
we arrived at midnight.
We found the desolation of La Granja far greater than that of Aranjuez;
both had suffered from the absence of royalty, but the former to a degree
which was truly appalling. Nine-tenths of the inhabitants had left this
place, which, until the late military revolution, had been the favourite
residence of Christina. So great is the solitude of La Granja, that wild
boars from the neighbouring forests, and especially from the beautiful
pine-covered mountain which rises like a cone directly behind the palace,
frequently find their way into the streets and squares, and whet their
tusks against the pillars of the porticos.
“Ride on because of the word of righteousness.” After a stay of
twenty-four hours at La Granja, we proceeded to Segovia. The day had
arrived on which I had appointed to meet Lopez. I repaired to the
aqueduct, and sat down beneath the hundred and seventh arch, where I
waited the greater part of the day, but he came not, whereupon I rose and
went into the city.
At Segovia I tarried two days in the house of a friend, still I could
hear nothing of Lopez. At last, by the greatest chance in the world, I
heard from a peasant that there were men in the neighbourhood of Abades
selling books.
Abades is about three leagues distant from Segovia, and upon receiving
this intelligence, I instantly departed for the former place, with three
donkeys laden with Testaments. I reached Abades at nightfall, and found
Lopez, with two peasants whom he had engaged, in the house of the surgeon
of the place, where I also took up my residence. He had already disposed
of a considerable number of Testaments in the neighbourhood, and had that
day commenced selling at Abades itself; he had, however, been interrupted
by two of the three curas of the village, who, with horrid curses
denounced the work, threatening eternal condemnation to Lopez for selling
it, and to any person who should purchase it; whereupon Lopez, terrified,
forbore until I should arrive. The third cura, however, exerted himself
to the utmost to persuade the people to provide themselves with
Testaments, telling them that his brethren were hypocrites and false
guides, who, by keeping them in ignorance of the word and will of Christ,
were leading them to the abyss. Upon receiving this information, I
instantly sallied forth to the market-place, and that same night
succeeded in disposing of upwards of thirty Testaments. The next morning
the house was entered by the two factious curas, but upon my rising to
confront them, they retreated, and I heard no more of them, except that
they publicly cursed me in the church more than once, an event which, as
no ill resulted from it, gave me little concern.
I will not detail the events of the next week; suffice it to say that
arranging my forces in the most advantageous way, I succeeded, by God’s
assistance, in disposing of from five to six hundred Testaments amongst
the villages from one to seven leagues’ distance from Abades. At the
expiration of that period I received information that my proceedings were
known in Segovia, in which province Abades is situated, and that an order
was about to be sent to the alcalde to seize all books in my possession.
Whereupon, notwithstanding that it was late in the evening, I decamped
with all my people, and upwards of three hundred Testaments, having a few
hours previously received a fresh supply from Madrid. That night we
passed in the fields, and next morning proceeded to Labajos, a village on
the high road from Madrid to Valladolid. In this place we offered no
books for sale, but contented ourselves with supplying the neighbouring
villages with the word of God: we likewise sold it in the highways.
We had not been at Labajos a week, during which time we were remarkably
successful, when the Carlist chieftain, Balmaseda, at the head of his
cavalry, made his desperate inroad into the southern part of Old Castile,
dashing down like an avalanche from the pine-woods of Soria. I was
present at all the horrors which ensued,—the sack of Arrevalo, and the
forcible entry into Martin Muñoz. Amidst these terrible scenes we
continued our labours. Suddenly I lost Lopez for three days, and
suffered dreadful anxiety on his account, imagining that he had been shot
by the Carlists; at last I heard that he was in prison at Villallos,
three leagues distant. The steps which I took to rescue him will be
found detailed in a communication, which I deemed it my duty to transmit
to Lord William Hervey, who, in the absence of Sir George Villiers, now
became Earl of Clarendon, fulfilled the duties of minister at Madrid:—
LABAJOS, PROVINCE OF SEGOVIA,
_August_ 23, 1838.
MY LORD,—I beg leave to call your attention to the following facts.
On the 21st inst. I received information that a person in my employ,
of the name of Juan Lopez, had been thrown into the prison of
Villallos, in the province of Avila, by order of the cura of that
place. The crime with which he was charged was selling the New
Testament. I was at that time at Labajos, in the province of
Segovia, and the division of the factious chieftain Balmaseda was in
the immediate neighbourhood. On the 22nd, I mounted my horse and
rode to Villallos, a distance of three leagues. On my arrival there,
I found that Lopez had been removed from the prison to a private
house. An order had arrived from the corregidor of Avila, commanding
that the person of Lopez should be set at liberty, and that the books
which had been found in his possession should be alone detained.
Nevertheless, in direct opposition to this order, (a copy of which I
herewith transmit,) the alcalde of Villallos, at the instigation of
the cura, refused to permit the said Lopez to quit the place, either
to proceed to Avila or in any other direction. It had been hinted to
Lopez that as the factious were expected, it was intended on their
arrival to denounce him to them as a liberal, and to cause him to be
sacrificed. Taking these circumstances into consideration, I deemed
it my duty as a Christian and a gentleman, to rescue my unfortunate
servant from such lawless hands, and in consequence, defying
opposition, I bore him off, though entirely unarmed, through a crowd
of at least one hundred peasants. On leaving the place I shouted,
“_Viva Isabel Segunda_.”
As it is my belief that the cura of Villallos is a person capable of
any infamy, I beg leave humbly to intreat your Lordship to cause a
copy of the above narration to be forwarded to the Spanish
government.—I have the honour to remain, My Lord, Your Lordship’s
most obedient,
GEORGE BORROW.
To the Right Honourable
LORD WILLIAM HERVEY.
After the rescue of Lopez we proceeded in the work of distribution.
Suddenly, however, the symptoms of an approaching illness came over me,
which compelled us to return in all haste to Madrid. Arrived there, I
was attacked by a fever which confined me to my bed for several weeks;
occasional fits of delirium came over me, during one of which, I imagined
myself in the market-place of Martin Muños, engaged in deadly struggle
with the chieftain Balmaseda.
The fever had scarcely departed, when a profound melancholy took
possession of me, which entirely disqualified me for active exertion.
Change of scene and air was recommended; I therefore returned to England.