CHAPTER XVIII

Departure from Cordova—The Contrabandista—Jewish Cunning—Arrival at

Madrid.

One fine morning, I departed from Cordova, in company with the

Contrabandista; the latter was mounted on a handsome animal, something

between a horse and a pony, which he called a jaca, of that breed for

which Cordova is celebrated. It was of a bright bay colour, with a star

in its forehead, with strong but elegant limbs, and a long black tail,

which swept the ground. The other animal, which was destined to carry me

to Madrid, was not quite so prepossessing in its appearance: in more than

one respect it closely resembled a hog, particularly in the curving of

its back, the shortness of its neck, and the manner in which it kept its

head nearly in contact with the ground: it had also the tail of a hog,

and meandered over the ground much like one. Its coat more resembled

coarse bristles than hair, and with respect to size, I have seen many a

Westphalian hog quite as tall. I was not altogether satisfied with the

idea of exhibiting myself on the back of this most extraordinary

quadruped, and looked wistfully on the respectable animal on which my

guide had thought proper to place himself; he interpreted my glances, and

gave me to understand that as he was destined to carry the baggage, he

was entitled to the best horse; a plea too well grounded on reason for me

to make any objection to it.

I found the Contrabandista by no means such pleasant company on the road

as I had been led to suppose he would prove from the representation of my

host of Cordova. Throughout the day he sat sullen and silent, and rarely

replied to my questions, save by a monosyllable; at night, however, after

having eaten well and drank proportionably at my expense, he would

occasionally become more sociable and communicative. “I have given up

smuggling,” said he, on one of these occasions, “owing to a trick which

was played upon me the last time that I was at Lisbon: a Jew whom I had

been long acquainted with palmed upon me a false brilliant for a real

stone. He effected it in the most extraordinary manner, for I am not

such a novice as not to know a true diamond when I see one; but the Jew

appears to have had two, with which he played most adroitly, keeping the

valuable one for which I bargained, and substituting therefor another

which, though an excellent imitation, was not worth four dollars. I did

not discover the trick until I was across the border, and upon my

hurrying back, the culprit was not to be found; his priest, however, told

me that he was just dead and buried, which was of course false, as I saw

him laughing in the corners of his eyes. I renounced the contraband

trade from that moment.”

It is not my intention to describe minutely the various incidents of this

journey. Leaving at our right the mountains of Jaen, we passed through

Andujar and Bailen, and on the third day reached Carolina, a small but

beautiful town on the skirts of the Sierra Morena, inhabited by the

descendants of German colonists. Two leagues from this place, we entered

the defile of Despeña Perros, which, even in quiet times, has an evil

name, on account of the robberies which are continually being perpetrated

within its recesses, but at the period of which I am speaking, it was

said to be swarming with banditti. We of course expected to be robbed,

perhaps stripped and otherwise ill-treated; but Providence here

manifested itself. It appeared that, the day before our arrival, the

banditti of the pass had committed a dreadful robbery and murder, by

which they gained forty thousand rials. This booty probably contented

them for a time; certain it is that we were not interrupted: we did not

even see a single individual in the pass, though we occasionally heard

whistles and loud cries. We entered La Mancha, where I expected to fall

into the hands of Palillos and Orejita. Providence again showed itself.

It had been delicious weather, suddenly the Lord breathed forth a frozen

blast, the severity of which was almost intolerable; no human beings but

ourselves ventured forth. We traversed snow-covered plains, and passed

through villages and towns to all appearance deserted. The robbers kept

close in their caves and hovels, but the cold nearly killed us. We

reached Aranjuez late on Christmas Day, and I got into the house of an

Englishman, where I swallowed nearly a pint of brandy; it affected me no

more than warm water.

On the following day we arrived at Madrid, where we had the good fortune

to find everything tranquil and quiet. The Contrabandista continued with

me for two days, at the end of which time he returned to Cordova upon the

uncouth animal on which I had ridden throughout the journey. I had

myself purchased the jaca, whose capabilities I had seen on the route,

and which I imagined might prove useful in future journeys. The

Contrabandista was so satisfied with the price which I gave him for his

beast, and the general treatment which he had experienced at my hands

during the time of his attendance upon me, that he would fain have

persuaded me to retain him as a servant, assuring me that, in the event

of my compliance, he would forget his wife and children and follow me

through the world. I declined, however, to accede to his request, though

I was in need of a domestic; I therefore sent him back to Cordova, where,

as I subsequently learned, he died suddenly, about a week after his

return.

The manner of his death was singular: one day he took out his purse, and,

after counting his money, said to his wife, “I have made ninety-five

dollars by this journey with the Englishman and by the sale of the jaca;

this I could easily double by one successful venture in the smuggling

lay. To-morrow I will depart for Lisbon to buy diamonds. I wonder if

the beast requires to be shod?” He then started up and made for the

door, with the intention of going to the stable; ere, however, his foot

had crossed the threshold, he fell dead on the floor. Such is the course

of the world. Well said the wise king: Let no one boast of the morrow.

The Bible in Spain Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman, in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the Peninsula · 第 18 / 57 章