_LA CUISINE CREOLE_
_A COLLECTION OF
CULINARY RECIPES_
_From Leading Chefs and Noted Creole Housewives,
Who Have Made New Orleans
Famous for Its Cuisine_
[Illustration]
_SECOND EDITION_
NEW ORLEANS:
F. F. HANSELL & BRO., Ltd.
COPYRIGHT
1885
HAMMOND PRESS
W. B. CONKEY COMPANY
CHICAGO
_INTRODUCTION_
“La Cuisine Creole” (Creole cookery) partakes of the nature of
its birthplace--New Orleans--which is cosmopolitan in its nature,
blending the characteristics of the American, French, Spanish,
Italian, West Indian and Mexican. In this compilation will be found
many original recipes and other valuable ones heretofore unpublished,
notably those of Gombo file, Bouille-abaisse, Courtbouillon,
Jambolaya, Salade a la Russe, Bisque of Cray-fish a la Creole,
Pusse Cafe, Cafe brule, Brulot, together with many confections and
delicacies for the sick, including a number of mixed drinks. Much
domestic contentment depends upon the successful preparation of
the meal; and as food rendered indigestible through ignorance in
cooking often creates discord and unhappiness, it behooves the young
housekeeper to learn the art of cooking.
It is the author’s endeavor to present to her a number of recipes
all thoroughly tested by experience, and embracing the entire field
of the “Cuisine,” set forth in such clear, concise terms, as to be
readily understood and easily made practicable, thereby unveiling the
mysteries which surround her, upon the _entree_ into the kitchen.
Economy and simplicity govern “La Cuisine Creole”; and its many
savory dishes are rendered palatable more as the result of care in
their preparation than any great skill or expensive outlay in the
selection of materials. The Creole housewife often makes delicious
_morceaux_ from the things usually thrown away by the extravagant
servant. She is proud of her art, and deservedly receives the
compliments of her friends. This volume will be found quite different
from the average cook-book in its treatment of recipes, and is the
only one in print containing dishes peculiar to “la Cuisine Creole.”
_LA CUISINE CREOLE_
SOUP
Soup being the first course served at all ordinary dinners, we make
it the basis for preliminary remarks. Nothing more palatable than
good, well-made soup, and nothing less appetising than poor soup. Now
to attain perfection in any line, care and attention are requisite,
careful study a necessity, and application the moving force. Hence,
cooking in all its branches should be studied as a science, and not
be looked upon as a haphazard mode of getting through life. Cooking
is in a great measure a chemical process, and the ingredients of
certain dishes should be as carefully weighed and tested as though
emanating from the laboratory. Few female cooks think of this, but
men with their superior instinctive reasoning power are more governed
by law and abide more closely to rule; therefore, are better cooks,
and command higher prices for services.
Now, with regard to soup making, the first care is to have the fire
brisk, the vessel in which it is cooked thoroughly cleaned and free
from odor. To insure this, keep one vessel sacred to soup as nearly
as possible; and after serving wash the pot with potash water, or
take a piece of washing soda the size of a nutmeg, dissolve in hot
water and then cleanse the vessel. A good workman is known by his
tools, so also a good cook will look well to the utensils before
commencing operations. Good results follow carefulness.
_Soup must have time_ to cook, and should always boil gently, that
the meat may become tender, and give out its juices. Allow a quart
of water and a teaspoonful of salt for each pound of meat. Soup meat
must always be put down in cold water. Skim well before it comes
to the boiling point, and again skim off superfluous fat before
putting in the vegetables. The vegetables most used in soups are
carrots, leeks, parsley, turnip, celery, tomatoes, okras, cabbage,
cauliflower, peas and potatoes.
One large leek, two carrots, one bunch of parsley, two turnips and a
potato, will be enough for one pot of soup. One head of celery, two
leeks, two turnips, and five or six small potatoes will be enough
another time. Six tomatoes skinned, the juice strained from the
seeds, a leek, a bunch of parsley, and six potatoes will answer for
another style; a carrot, some cabbage, tomatoes, and potatoes will
do another time. Okra alone is vegetable enough for a gombo, unless
onion is liked with it. Green peas, lettuce, and new potatoes are
enough for spring lamb soup. Vermicelli and macaroni are for chicken,
lamb or veal soup, with the addition of onion if liked.
It is well to prepare the vegetables when the meat is put over the
fire to boil; allow a quart of water to a pound of meat. Trim and
scrape carrots, then cut or grate them. Wash parsley and cut it
small. Pare turnips and cut them in slices a quarter of an inch
thick. Cut leeks in thick slices. Cut celery in half lengths; the
delicate green leaves give a fine flavor to the soup.
Pour boiling water on tomatoes, which will cause the skins to peel
off easily; when cool, squeeze out the seeds, and reserve the juice
for use in soup.
Shave cabbage in thin slices. Slice okra for gombo or okra soup. Pare
the potatoes, shell the peas, and cut off green corn from the cob,
for all these add fine flavor to soup.
To color soup brown, use browned flour or a little burnt sugar.
Spinach leaves give a fine green color. Pound the leaves, tie them
in a cloth, and squeeze out all the juice which add to the soup
five minutes before serving. This is also used to give color to
mock-turtle soup.
You may color soup red by putting in the strained juice of tomatoes,
or the whole tomato, if it is run through a sieve; grated carrot
gives a fine amber color; okra gives a pale green.
For white soups, which are made of veal, lamb, and chicken, white
vegetables are best, such as rice, pearl barley, vermicelli, and
macaroni; the thickening should then be made of unbrowned flour.
STOCK FOR SOUP
Stock in its composition is not confined to any set rules for any
particular proportions. All cook books give particular as well as
general directions for its manufacture; but all cooks know that
the most economical plan is to have a general stock-pot, where,
or into which, you can throw any pieces of beef or any piece of
meat from which gravy can be extracted--bones, skin, brisket or
tops of ribs, ox-cheek, ham, trimmings of turkey and other fowls,
pieces of mutton, bacon, veal, game, etc., etc. In fact, anything
that will become a jelly will assist in making stock. To this
medley of ingredients add pepper, salt, spices, herbs, carrots cut
small, onions, and curry, if wished, etc., and stew all to a rich
consistency over a slow fire, and then remove to cool. When cool, or
rather cold, every particle of fat must be removed and stock poured
clear of all sediment; it is now ready for use. When very rich soup
is desired, the jelly from a cow-heel, or lump of butter rolled in
flour, must be added to the stock.
TO CLARIFY STOCKS OR SOUPS
The whites of two eggs to about four quarts of stock or soup; two
pints and a half of cold water.
Whisk the whites of two fresh eggs with half a pint of water for ten
minutes; then pour in very gently the four quarts of boiling stock or
soup, stirring it all the time. Place the stewpan over the fire, and
skim the mixture till clear before allowing it to boil. When on the
point of boiling, stir rapidly; then place it a little back from the
fire, and let it settle till the whites of the eggs become separated.
Strain it through a fine cloth placed over a sieve, and it will be
clear and good.
STOCK FOR GRAVIES
Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal, and put it, with a pound of
lean beef, into two quarts of water; add one table-spoonful of salt
and a teaspoonful of pepper; cover it close, and let it stew until
the meat is very tender; then strain it and keep it for rich soups
or gravies, as thinning them with water spoils them. Always keep a
pot or stewpan in which to throw all nice pieces of meat left from
dinner, also any steak, bones, chicken wings, etc., etc. This makes
a reserve of stock with very little fresh meat. It is useful and
economical, and, being without vegetables, never sours. In making
oyster soup use a pint or so of this stock to the usual quart of
oysters and a pint of milk.
PLAIN BEEF SOUP
Five pounds of the leg or shin of beef; one gallon of water; a
teaspoonful of salt; two heads of celery; five carrots; three onions;
four turnips; two tomatoes, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Boil four
hours and a half.
Cut the meat in two or three pieces, and put them into a pot with a
gallon of cold water, which gradually soaks out the juices of the
meat before coming to the boil. Salt well, then skim as the soup
heats. Boil slowly with a regular heat for about four hours; then
add two heads of celery, five carrots cut small, two tomatoes, three
onions sliced and fried, and the sweet herbs tied up in muslin. The
turnips should be added half an hour before serving. If any portion
of the meat is required for the table, take it from the soup about
two hours before dinner. Let the remainder be left in the soup, which
must be strained through a hair sieve before it is served.
SOUP ET BOUILLI
Six or eight pounds of a brisket of beef; three carrots; four
turnips; two onions; six cloves; two heads of celery; one clove of
garlic; a bunch of sweet herbs; a little salt; a piece of butter; a
little flour; one French roll; a tablespoonful of French mustard.
Put the beef into a pot and cover it with water, and when it boils
take off the scum as it rises; then draw it to the side of the fire
to stew slowly for five or six hours, with the carrots, turnips,
celery, garlic, bunch of sweet herbs, and the onions stuck with
cloves. When done lay the bouilli on a hot dish, and strew over it
some carrots, turnips and the stalks of celery, previously boiled
and cut into shapes. Add to it a sauce made of a little of the soup,
thickened with flour fried in butter, and seasoned with pepper and
salt. Strain the soup over a French roll placed at the bottom of the
tureen and serve. The bouilli may have a spoonful of French mustard
added to the soup sauce.
BROTH IN HASTE
Cut some rare roast meat or broiled steak very fine. To a teacupful
of the cut meat put a pint and a half of boiling water; cover it, and
set it on the fire for ten minutes; season to taste. Roll a cracker
fine, and put in with the meat. This broth is both excellent and
convenient for invalids or children.
PLAIN CHICKEN-BROTH FOR AN INVALID
Cut a young fowl into four parts, wash well in cold water, put the
pieces in a stewpan with one quart of cold water and a little salt;
let it boil gently, skim it well; add the white heart of a head of
lettuce and a handful of chervil. Boil the broth for an hour, then
strain it into a bowl. Two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley added to
the broth when first put on makes it quite nourishing for an invalid.
CRAYFISH-BROTH FOR PURIFYING THE BLOOD
Take two pounds of the lean part of very white veal, chop it very
fine; add to it three dozen crayfish and a handful of green chervil;
pound them together to thoroughly bruise the crayfish; then put the
whole into a stewpan, and pour upon it three pints of cold spring
water; add a little salt, and place the stewpan on the stove to boil.
After half an hour, set it back on the stove, and let it simmer very
gently for an hour, then strain. It should be taken fasting to insure
its best effect.
SOUPE MAIGRE, WITHOUT MEAT, FOR LENT
Melt half a pound of butter in a stewpan, put in six onions sliced;
add two heads of celery cut small, one-half a head of white cabbage,
and a bunch of chopped parsley; let them boil twenty minutes, then
stir in three rolled crackers; pour in two quarts of boiling milk, or
milk and water; let this boil up gently for half an hour, and just
before serving stir in two well-beaten eggs.
CHICKEN SOUP. YELLOW AND VERY RICH
Take two pounds of veal, half as much beef or lamb, and one small
chicken cut up; boil them in three quarts of water, skim off all the
scum as it rises; slice a leek or two onions, grate a large carrot or
two small ones; put all these to the soup; add two tablespoonfuls of
salt and one of pepper. Let it boil gently for two hours, then add a
spoonful of butter worked in flour; cover this for fifteen minutes,
and serve in a tureen. Take the chicken into a deep dish, put over it
butter, pepper, and sprigs of parsley; or you may chop the chicken
up, season with pepper, salt, butter, and an egg; form into balls,
roll them in flour, and drop them in a few minutes before serving.
VEAL GRAVY SOUP
Throw into a stewpan one pound veal cutlet, three slices of ham,
two tablespoonfuls of lard, and let them fry gently; then, before
browning, add three sliced onions, two carrots, two parsnips, a
head of celery, and a few cloves. Let them cook slowly till lightly
browned, then add a pint and a half of boiling broth or water; let
this cook for an hour, and then put in a cup of mushrooms; skim and
strain for use.
SCOTCH BARLEY BROTH. CHEAP AND SUBSTANTIAL
Wash half a pound of Scotch barley in cold water; put it in a pot
with four or five pounds of shin beef sawed into small pieces, cover
it with cold water and set it on the fire. When it boils skim it
well, and then add three onions. Set it near the fire to simmer
gently for two hours. If much fat rises skim again; then add two
heads of celery and a couple of turnips cut into thin pieces. Season
with salt, and let it boil for an hour and a half. Take out the meat
on a platter and cover to keep warm; then pour the soup in a tureen
and serve.
CONSOMME OF BEEF AND FOWL
Take two pounds of lean beef and a fowl half roasted and cut in
pieces, put into a saucepan, which must be filled with stock or plain
broth; skim it well, salt it to taste, and add two carrots, two
onions, a head of celery or a pinch of celery seed, also a little
thyme, a whole pepper, mace, and a bay leaf. Let it simmer gently
for three or four hours, then strain through a coarse cloth; free it
entirely from fat, and clarify it with the white of an egg.
WHITE CONSOMME OF FOWL
Take one or two fowls, old or young. Let them lie half an hour
in cold water to cleanse from the blood, then drain and put them
in a pot; fill it with water, let it boil, then skim it. Add one
large carrot, or two small ones, two turnips, one onion, one head
of celery, two cloves, a piece of mace, a little salt. Let it boil
gently for two hours if the chickens are young; if old, three hours.
When they are tender, skim off the fat, and pass the consomme through
a sieve. This consomme may be considered a basis for all white soups,
as well as white sauces, and should be used instead of water for
filling them up.
PLAIN VERMICELLI SOUP, NO. 1
Put a soup-bone, weighing from two to three pounds, or a brisket
of beef, into four quarts of water; add two onions, two carrots,
and two turnips; salt to taste, and place over the fire to boil for
three hours; then remove and strain; put back on the stove, and add a
quarter of a pound of vermicelli, and let it boil till tender; serve
with tomatoes.
VERMICELLI SOUP, NO. 2
Cut about four pounds of knuckle of veal, one pound and a half of the
scrag of mutton, and a few slices of ham into small pieces; put them
into a saucepan with one onion stuck with cloves, and four ounces
of butter; then add the carrots, mace, bunch of sweet herbs, one
anchovy, and the celery. Mix all together, cover it close, and set it
over the fire till all the gravy has been extracted from the meat;
pour the liquor into a bowl, let the meat brown in the pan, and add
to it four quarts of water; boil it slowly till it is reduced to
three pints, strain it, and stir in the gravy drawn from the meat.
Set it over the fire, add the vermicelli, one head of celery cut
fine, a little cayenne, and salt; boil it up for ten minutes. Lay
a French roll in the tureen, pour the soup over it, and strew some
vermicelli on the top.
BAKED SOUP
Cut the beef or mutton and the vegetables in pieces, season them with
salt and pepper, and put them into a jar with a pint of peas and the
Patna rice. Pour in four quarts of water, cover the jar very closely,
and set it in the oven to bake. When done, strain it through a sieve,
and serve it very hot.
VERMICELLI OR MACARONI SOUP
Swell a quarter of a pound of vermicelli or macaroni (whichever is
preferred) in a quart of warm water for one hour; then add it to
some good stock or plain veal, chicken or beef soup; add a spoonful
of butter and half a pint of stewed tomatoes just before the soup is
served. This is a very fine soup, and is especially nourishing for
delicate stomachs.
GREEN PEA SOUP, WITHOUT MEAT, FOR LENT
Put two pints of green peas in two quarts of water, boil until the
peas are very soft; then add three or four onions, two heads of
celery, a carrot, and a turnip, all cut small; season with salt to
taste, add a little butter, and boil for two hours. If it becomes
too thick, add one pint of boiling water. The peas may be boiled the
day before, and kept over for convenience, if desired. This recipe
is intended for green peas but it may be made with dried peas also,
and the longer they boil, the better the soup will be. Do not add the
vegetables until the day it is wanted.
TOMATO SOUP WITH VEGETABLES. VERY FINE
Cut small, three carrots, three heads of celery, four onions and two
turnips; put them into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter, a
slice of ham and a half cup of water; let them simmer gently for an
hour; then if a very rich soup is desired add to the vegetables two
or three quarts of good soup stock, made by boiling a beef bone in
three quarts of water until the meat is tender. Let all boil together
for half an hour, and then add ten or twelve ripe tomatoes and a
half-dozen whole peppers. It should cook for another hour or so. It
must then be strained through a sieve or coarse cloth. Serve with
toasted or fried bread cut in bits in the tureen. This is an elegant
family soup, particularly nice in summer when the vegetables are
fresh.
CHEAP WHITE SOUP
Chop up any remains you may have of cold veal, chicken, game or
rabbit roasted dry. Grate them, beat them in a mortar, and rub them
through a sieve. Then add to the panada a quart of stock, put it into
a saucepan and cook. Pay great attention to skimming as it boils.
QUEEN VICTORIA’S FAVORITE GREEN PEA SOUP
Take two quarts of green peas, a double-handful of parsley, four
stalks of green mint, and a good handful of green onions. Have
ready two quarts of veal or beef stock, place it on the fire, throw
in the above peas, mint and onions. Let them all boil; when they
are thoroughly done take them out, drain them and pound them well
together. Put them in the stewpan again with the liquor; warm it and
run it through a sieve. Add at the last moment a half pound of butter
and a spoonful of sugar. Serve with fried bread.
ECONOMICAL GREEN PEA FAMILY SOUP WITH EGG DUMPLINGS
Take a quart of shelled English peas for a large family, but if for
a small family a pint will do. Put on the fire a veal bone or half
a chicken; if a pint only of peas is used add any broiled steak,
bones, nice scraps, or a small beef marrow bone; set it on the fire
with a gallon of water and let it boil two hours. Then tie up in a
muslin bag, one coffeecupful of the green peas; let the others stand
in a cool place until wanted. Put this bag of peas into the pot
with the beef and chicken stock, and let them boil until the peas
are perfectly done. Skim out the peas, meat and bones, and add the
rest of the peas, and let them boil gently. While these are cooking
pour the peas in the bag into a pan and mash them smoothly; then add
to them a batter made with two eggs, a spoonful of milk and flour.
Add to the boiling peas a spoonful of butter and a little eschalot,
if the flavor of onion is liked; then drop the batter in gently, a
little at a time, in small round dumplings, and when they boil up
your soup is ready to serve. This is an excellent spring soup, and is
improved by adding lettuce heads, but they must be taken out before
the dumplings are put in, as they give a dark color if left in too
long.
CLEAR PEA SOUP
Take two quarts of good beef or veal soup stock--which is better for
being boiled the day before; into this put a quart of young green
peas, heads of lettuce, and a sprig of mint; add salt and pepper to
taste.
DRIED SPLIT-PEA SOUP
Take a good beef marrow-bone of one or two pounds weight, or the
remains of roast beef-bones and gravy; add a slice of ham. Put these
in a pot with a gallon of cold water; throw in the pot two cups of
split peas or small white beans, two carrots, two turnips, two large
onions or three small ones, a stalk of celery cut in pieces, a bunch
of thyme, and a teaspoonful of mixed black and red pepper. When the
vegetables are quite soft, which will be in about two hours, take the
soup from the fire, strain it through a sieve or coarse cloth; add
salt, and put on the fire again and boil for a few moments; then pour
it over toasted bread.
GREEN CORN SOUP. VERY DELICATE
Cut corn from the cob until you have at least a pint; cover it with
a quart of sweet milk. Let it boil half an hour, add a teaspoonful
of salt, skim it carefully, then throw into it a piece of butter the
size of a hen’s-egg and pepper to suit your taste. Serve with rolls
or toasted bread.
OYSTER SOUP. DELICATE
Take the oysters from their liquor. To every quart of the liquor
add a pint of water or milk (milk is preferable); season with salt,
pepper, butter, and toasted bread-crumbs that have been toasted and
pounded. When this has boiled, put in a quart of oysters to two
quarts of liquor. Let all boil a few minutes, and serve.
ANOTHER OYSTER SOUP. VERY STRENGTHENING
Take a knuckle of veal or a piece of lamb; allow a quart of water and
a teaspoonful of salt to each pound; set it over the fire, let it
come to a boil, skim it well and then set it back on the stove. Let
it simmer for two hours. This will form a fine, strong, nourishing
stock for the soup. Take out the meat, and skim the stock clear;
put in half a pound of rolled crackers and a quart of nice oysters.
Let it boil up, and finish by putting in a large tablespoonful of
butter, and pepper and salt to taste. Macaroni or vermicelli can be
substituted for the crackers, if preferred.
TURTLE SOUP FOR A LARGE COMPANY, NO. 1
Cut the head off the turtle the day before you dress it, and drain
the blood thoroughly from the body. Then cut it up in the following
manner: Divide the back, belly, head and fins from the intestines
and lean parts. Be careful not to cut the gall bag. Scald in boiling
water to remove the skin and shell. Cut up in neat pieces and throw
into cold water. Boil the back and belly in a little water long
enough to extract the bones easily. If for a large company a leg of
veal will also be required, and a slice of ham, which must be stewed
with the lean parts till well browned; then add boiling water, and
the liquor and bones of the boiled turtle. Season with sliced lemon,
whole pepper, a bunch of parsley, two leeks sliced, and salt to
taste. Let this all boil slowly for four hours then strain. Add the
pieces of back, belly, head and fins (take the bones from the fins),
pour in half a pint of Madeira wine and a quarter of a pound of good
sweet butter, with a tablespoonful of flour worked in it; also, a
lemon sliced thin. Let it boil gently for two hours, then serve.
In cutting up the turtle great care should be taken of the fat,
which should be separated, cut up neatly, and stewed till tender in
a little of the liquor, and put into the tureen when ready to serve.
Garnish with the eggs, if any; if not, use hard-boiled eggs of fowls.
TURTLE SOUP NO. 2
Put on, at an early hour in the morning, eight pounds of beef or
veal, one pound of ham or bacon, eight onions, with pepper, salt,
and sweet herbs to taste. Make a rich soup of this, and add to it
the liquor of a boiled turtle; season very high with wine, spice,
cayenne, and catsup. Put in the flesh of the turtle, prepared as in
recipe No. 1--do not use the eyes or tongue. Let this boil up till
tender, and serve with force-meat balls in tureen. Curry powder will
give a higher flavor to soups than spice.
PLAIN MOCK-TURTLE SOUP
Boil a calf’s-head until very tender; take out the head, strain the
liquor, and skim off the fat when cold, and keep till following day.
Cut up the meat of the head and brain, and add to the liquor; place
over the fire, after seasoning to taste with pepper, salt, mace,
cloves, sweet herbs, and onions. Let it stew an hour, then add a
tumbler of white wine, and it is ready for the force-meat balls. For
the balls, chop a pound of lean veal with half a pound of salt pork;
add the brains of the calf’s-head, seasoned with pepper, salt, mace,
cloves, sweet herbs, or curry powder. Make into balls the size of the
yolk of an egg; boil part in the soup, fry the rest for a separate
dish.
MOCK-TURTLE SOUP NO. 2
Put into a pot a knuckle of veal, two calf’s feet, two onions, a
few cloves, pepper, allspice, mace and sweet herbs; cover them with
water; tie a thick paper over the pot, or cover it close. Let it stew
four hours. Remove from the fire and let it cool. When cold take off
the fat very nicely, cut the meat and feet into bits an inch square,
remove the bones and coarse parts; then place over the fire again to
warm. Add a large spoonful of walnut catsup, one of mushroom catsup,
a little mushroom powder, or a few mushrooms, and the jelly of the
meat. When hot, serve with hard eggs, forcemeat balls, and the juice
of one lemon.
MOCK-TURTLE SOUP. EXCELLENT, NO. 3
Clean a calf’s _head_ nicely, split it and take out the brains; put
the head into considerably more water than will cover it. Let it boil
gently, and skim it carefully; when very tender take it out and cut
in small pieces. Put into the boiling soup three pounds of beef and a
knuckle of veal with all the bones broken fine. Add to this four or
five onions, a carrot and turnip sliced, and a bunch of sweet herbs.
Let it boil gently for three hours. Parboil the tongue and brains of
the calf’s head, and add them when the soup is nearly done. Let it
cool and take off the fat.
_To finish it for the table_, melt a quarter of a pound of nice fresh
butter, add a handful of flour and stir over the fire till the butter
and flour are brown; add to this a little of the soup, a few sprigs
of parsley and sweet basil; boil it for fifteen minutes and add it to
the soup, together with two tablespoonfuls of catsup, the juice of a
lemon, and salt to taste. It is usual to add a pint of sherry. When
dished in the tureen, put in two dozen egg balls.
EGG BALLS FOR MOCK-TURTLE SOUP
Make a paste of the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs and the white of
two raw ones; season with salt and cayenne pepper. Take bits of the
paste the size of small marbles, run them in flour and roll into
balls; fry carefully in butter and drop into the soup.
OX-TAIL SOUP
Cut each joint of two ox-tails with a meat-saw, steep them in water
for two hours; then place them in a stew-pan with three carrots,
three turnips, three onions, two heads of celery, four cloves, and a
blade of mace.
Fill up the stew-pan from the boiling stock-pot; boil this over a
slow fire until done and the joints quite tender. Take them out, cool
them, and clarify the broth. Strain this into a soup-pot, put with it
the pieces of ox-tail, some olive shaped pieces of carrot and turnip
which have been boiled in a little of the broth; add to this when
it has boiled half an hour a small lump of sugar and a little red
pepper. This soup is excellent, and may be served with any kind of
vegetables strained in it, such as puree of peas, carrots, turnips,
or celery.
RABBIT SOUP
Cut one or two rabbits into joints; lay them for an hour in cold
water; dry and fry them in butter until they are half done; place
the meat in a saucepan with four or five onions and a head of celery
cut small; add to these three parts of cold water and a cup of peas,
either green or dry; season with pepper and salt, then strain and
serve it. Some like it unstrained.
REMARKS ON GOMBO OF OKRA OR FILEE
This is a most excellent form of soup, and is an economical way of
using up the remains of any cold roasted chicken, turkey, game,
or other meats. Cut up and season the chicken, meat, or other
material to make the soup; fry to a light brown in a pot, and
add boiling water in proportion to your meat. Two pounds of meat
or chicken (bones and all), with a half pound of ham, or less of
breakfast-bacon, will flavor a gallon of soup, which, when boiled
down, will make gombo for six people. When the boiling water is
added to the meat, let it simmer for at least two hours. Take the
large bones from the pot, and add okra or a preparation of dried and
pounded sassafras leaves, called filee. This makes the difference
in gombo. For gombo for six people use one quart of sliced okra; if
filee be used, put in a coffeecupful. Either gives the smoothness so
desirable in this soup. Oysters, crabs, and shrimp may be added when
in season, as all improve the gombo. Never strain gombo. Add green
corn, tomatoes, etc., etc., if desired. Serve gombo with plain-boiled
rice.
GOMBO WITH CRABS, OR SHRIMP
To a pound of beef add half a pound knuckle of ham; chop up both in
inch pieces and fry them brown in two tablespoonfuls of boiling lard;
add to them four large crabs cut up, or a pound of peeled shrimps, or
both if desired; cut into this four dozen small okra pods, one large
onion, a little red pepper, and salt to taste. Let all simmer on a
slow fire for about twenty minutes; then fill up with warm water,
enough to cover the contents two inches deep. Let this boil for two
hours. If it becomes too thick, add as much water as required. If
preferred a chicken can be used instead of the beef.
SIMPLE OKRA GOMBO
Chop a pound of beef and half a pound of veal brisket into squares
an inch thick; slice three dozen okra pods, one onion, a pod of red
pepper, and fry all together. When brown pour in half a gallon of
water; add more as it boils away. Serve with rice as usual.
OYSTER GOMBO WITH FILEE, NO. 1
Take a grown chicken, fifty oysters, and a half-pound of ham to
flavor the gombo. Cut up two onions fine, fry them in lard and
thicken the gravy with flour; a teaspoonful will be enough. Cut up
the chicken and ham, and put them to fry with the onions. Let all
cook gently till brown, then put in a pint of boiling water and boil
the chicken until it is almost in pieces. Half-an-hour before dinner
pour in the oysters and their liquor. When ready for the table take
a large spoonful of fresh powdered sassafras leaves or filee, wet it
with a little of the soup, and stir it into the soup. If not thick
or ropy enough, stir in another spoonful. Do not let the soup boil
after the filee is put in, but remove it from the fire, or serve it
immediately.
GOMBO FILEE WITH OYSTERS, NO. 2
Fry a tablespoonful of flour in a tablespoonful of lard. Let it brown
slowly so as not to scorch. Boil the liquor of two quarts of oysters,
and when it is boiling throw in a cupful of cut leeks or onions, a
large slice of ham, some parsley, and stir in the browned flour. Let
this cook fifteen minutes; then pour in two quarts of oysters. Let
them boil a few minutes, season with salt and pepper; take out the
parsley and sift in half a cup of dried and pounded fresh filee; if
not fresh more will be required.
CHICKEN GOMBO WITH OYSTERS
Take a young chicken, or the half of a grown one; cut it up, roll
it in salt, pepper and flour, and fry it a nice brown, using lard
or drippings, as if for fricassee. Cut up a quart of fresh green
okras, and take out the chicken and fry the okra in the same lard.
When well browned return the chicken to the pot and boil. Add to it a
large slice of ham; a quarter of a pound will be about right for this
gombo. Pour onto the chicken, ham and okra, half a gallon of boiling
water, and let it boil down to three pints. Ten minutes before
serving pour into the boiling soup two dozen fine oysters with half
a pint of their liquor. Let it come to a good boil, and serve it with
well-boiled rice.
MAIGRE OYSTER GOMBO
Take 100 oysters with their juice, and one large onion; slice
the onion into hot lard and fry it brown, adding when brown a
tablespoonful of flour and red pepper. When thick enough pour in the
oysters. Boil together twenty minutes. Stir in a large spoonful of
butter and one or two tablespoonfuls of filee, then take the soup
from the fire and serve with rice.
MAIGRE SHRIMP GOMBO FOR LENT
Boil a pint of shrimps in a quart of water; give them only one boil
up; then set them to drain and cool, reserving the water they were
boiled in. Chop up three dozen okra pods, two onions, a pod of
pepper, and a little parsley, and fry them brown in a little lard
or butter; add to the okra the shrimps and the strained water in
which they were boiled. Let all boil for an hour, and season with
salt and pepper to taste. When shrimp and crabs can not be procured,
half a pound of dry codfish, soaked an hour or two, and chopped
fine, will do very well. All gombo should be thickened with a little
flour--browned if preferred--and stirred in just before adding the
water; then boil an hour.
CRAB GOMBO, WITH OKRA
Take six large crabs, throw them in cold water for a few moments.
When cool cut off the limbs--while they are living if possible, as
this renders them more delicate; clean them, and put them to fry,
shells and all, in a pot containing a cup of lard, a cup of cut
onions, a small bunch of parsley, and two tablespoonfuls of browned
flour. Let them cook about fifteen minutes, and then pour on them
two pints of boiling water and a quart of sliced okra; let it all
stew gently for half an hour, and add a slice of lean ham and a quart
of good veal or beef stock (made by boiling two pounds of veal or
beef in two quarts of water until reduced to a quart); season with a
teaspoonful of salt, and same of black and red pepper, and let all
boil for half an hour. This soup can be made in the oyster season by
putting in a quart of oysters and two quarts of their liquor instead
of the boiled beef stock.
CRAYFISH BISQUE. A CREOLE DISH
Parboil the fish, pick out the meat, and mince or pound it in a
mortar until very fine; it will require about fifty crayfish. Add
to the fish one-third the quantity of bread soaked in milk, and a
quarter of a pound of butter, also salt to taste, a bunch of thyme,
two leaves of sage, a small piece of garlic and a chopped onion. Mix
all well and cook ten minutes, stirring all the time to keep it from
growing hard. Clean the heads of the fish, throw them in strong salt
and water for a few minutes and then drain them. Fill each one with
the above stuffing, flour them, and fry a light brown. Set a clean
stewpan over a slow fire, put into it three spoonfuls of lard or
butter, a slice of ham or bacon, two onions chopped fine; dredge over
it enough flour to absorb the grease, then add a pint and a half of
boiling water, or better still, plain beef stock. Season this with a
bunch of thyme, a bay leaf, and salt and pepper to taste. Let it cook
slowly for half an hour, then put the heads of the crayfish in and
let them boil fifteen minutes. Serve rice with it.
FISH
FRICASSEE OF FISH
All large fish make nice fricassee. Cut the fish into slices and lay
it in a gravy made of fried onions, parsley, tomatoes and a little
garlic; fry in butter and serve. Add catsup if liked.
TO FRY FISH
The fat from bacon, or salt pork, is much nicer to fry fish in, than
lard. After the fish is cleaned, wash it and wipe it dry, and let
it lie on a cloth till all the moisture is absorbed; then roll it
in flour. No salt is required if fried in bacon or pork fat. There
must be fat enough to float the fish or they will not fry nicely, but
instead soak fat and be soft to the touch.
TO STUFF AND BAKE FISH
Choose any of the many dressings in this book. Take either plain
bread stuffing, veal stuffing, or force-meat; fill the fish and sew
it up; put a teacup of water in the baking pan, with a spoonful of
butter and bake, according to the size of the fish, from thirty
minutes to an hour. Season with pepper and salt and bake brown.
CROAKERS AND MULLETS FRIED
Have them perfectly cleaned; trim the fins, wipe the fish with a
clean cloth, salt and pepper each one, and roll it in flour or fine
corn meal, and then drop it into a pot of boiling lard and bacon
grease mixed. When brown, pile up on a hot dish and serve, with any
desired sauce or catsup.
FILLETS OR SLICED FISH, FRIED
When the fish is too large to fry whole, cut into slices and place
them in a crock; season with pepper, salt, oil, lemon juice, and
chopped parsley. Turn the fish in this mixture so that all parts may
become well saturated with the seasoning. When wanted, drain, wipe
dry and dip each piece separately in flour; drop into boiling lard;
take it up as it browns, and ornament the dish with a border of fried
parsley. Send to table with sauce to suit the taste.
TROUT STUFFED AND BAKED
Stuff one or more fish, with any stuffing desired; score them well
and put in a buttered pan to bake; season with pepper, salt and
chopped parsley, moisten them with a little essence of mushrooms or
catsup and butter. Baste every five minutes until they are done;
remove the fish to a hot dish. Throw a little wine or vinegar
into the pan, and stir it to detach the crust from the pan; boil
this sauce down, add a little more butter and pour over the fish.
Mushrooms are an improvement to the sauce; but if not convenient,
tomato sauce will answer.
TROUT A LA VENITIENNE
After well cleaning your trout, make slashes in the back, and insert
butter rolled in parsley, lemon, thyme, basil, chives all minced very
fine; pour some salad oil over it, and let it lie for half an hour;
cover it with bread crumbs and chopped sweet herbs, boil it over a
clear fire which is not too quick, and serve it with sauce No. 13.
BROILED SPANISH MACKEREL
Split the mackerel down the back; season with pepper and salt, rub
it over with oil, place it on a gridiron over a moderate fire and,
when browned on one side, turn. If it is a very large fish, divide it
and broil one half at a time. When done, place it on a dish, and put
butter, parsley and lemon juice over it. Serve with sauce No. 13.
BROILED FLOUNDER
This is cooked just as the Spanish mackerel in the preceding recipe;
and may be sent to table with the same sauce, or sauce a l’aurore No.
14.
FLOUNDERS AND MULLETS FRIED
These fish are very fine when fresh from the waters of Lake
Pontchartrain. Flounder is better broiled, but still is very nice
fried. Clean and dry the fish. Do not cut them in pieces, but score
them across if very large. Have lard or bacon fat very hot; roll the
fish in flour and drop into the boiling fat. Let them cook until
brown, and serve with sauce No. 15.
PLAIN BOILED RED FISH OR RED SNAPPER
Wash the fish; when cleaned, wipe it dry and rub it over with lemon
juice and salt. Put it in a fish kettle or other vessel to boil,
cover it with soft water and throw in a handful of salt. As soon as
it begins to boil, skim it and let it simmer; hard boiling breaks the
flesh before it is cooked thoroughly. When done, lift it out of the
water with a drainer, slip it carefully on a dish and send to table
with sauces No. 13 and No. 3.
RED-FISH A LA PROVENCALE
Have properly cleaned a medium sized fish; score it deep then put in
a large dish and cover with a pickle or marinade made of two sliced
carrots, two onions, some parsley and bay-leaves, three cloves of
garlic, pepper and salt, the juice of two lemons, and a gill of salad
oil. When thoroughly flavored, remove the fish from the marinade
and bake three-quarters of an hour, basting frequently with wine
and butter. When done, put it on a platter and keep hot. Add half a
bottle of wine and some cayenne pepper to the marinade; stew well and
strain over the fish. Garnish with cut lemon, sprigs of parsley and
capers.
BAKED AND STEWED CODFISH
Scald for ten minutes some soaked codfish, it should soak all night;
then scrape it white, pick it in flakes, and put it in a stewpan with
a tablespoonful of nice butter worked into as much flour, and milk
enough to moisten it. Let it stew gently ten minutes; add pepper to
taste, and serve hot. Slice hard-boiled eggs over it, and sprigs of
parsley around the dish.
If the fish is to be baked you must put it on to scald, as above,
after soaking all night; you must then put on double as much Irish
potatoes as the quantity of codfish. Boil them, mash them, and then
pick up the codfish fine, seasoning it with butter and pepper;
moisten it with two beaten eggs, a little chopped onion, and milk if
necessary. Make it all into a large soft pat, or cake, smooth it with
a knife blade and put it in the stove to be browned lightly.
CODFISH CAKES
Soak the codfish all night, then scald for ten minutes; put to it an
equal quantity of potatoes boiled and mashed; moisten it with beaten
eggs, a bit of butter and a little pepper; form it into round cakes,
about half an inch thick, roll them each one in flour, and fry in hot
lard until they are a delicate brown. The lard must be boiling, and
the cakes fried gently.
COD AU BEURRE ROUX
Cod; a little browned butter; a little flour; sugar; one onion;
tablespoonful of vinegar.
For cod au beurre roux, boil a piece of cod and separate it into
flakes; brown some butter, dredge in a little flour, and a little
sugar in powder, and in this fry some slices of onion a fine brown;
throw in the vinegar, boil it up, pour over the fish, and serve it
with crisp parsley.
OYSTER STUFFING FOR TURKEY
Take three or four dozen nice plump oysters, wash and beard them,
add to them a tumblerful of bread crumbs; chop up a tumblerful of
nice beef suet; mix together, and moisten with three eggs; season
with salt, pepper, a little butter, a teaspoonful of mace, and some
cayenne pepper. Roll force-meat into cakes, and fry them. They are
pretty laid around a turkey or chicken.
OYSTERS STEWED WITH CHAMPAGNE
Put into a silver chafing dish a quarter of a pound of butter; lay
in a quart of oysters; strew over them grated bread which has been
toasted, beaten and sifted, some cut parsley and a little pepper and
salt; cover the top with bits of butter cut thin; pour on a pint of
champagne, cover and cook. This may be done in a pan or oven.
OYSTERS STEWED WITH MILK
Take a pint of fine oysters, one-half pint of their own liquor and
a half a pint of milk; boil the liquor, take off the scum; put in a
quarter of a pound of butter, pepper and salt to taste, and serve
crackers and dressed celery with them.
STEWED OYSTERS ON TOAST
Take the oysters from their liquor, let it settle; then strain and
add some whole pepper, two blades of mace, and three cloves, and put
over a moderate fire in a block-tin covered sauce-pan; mix a little
flour with a piece of butter, as large as a hen’s egg for two dozen
oysters, and stir in the boiling liquor; remove any scum which may
rise, then put in the oysters and let them cook for five minutes.
Line a hot oyster dish with toasted, well-buttered bread, and pour
over it the boiling oysters. Only rich juicy oysters will stew to
advantage. Milk is always an improvement, but in this recipe it can
be dispensed with; if, however, it is convenient pour in a half a
pint just as the oysters are put in to boil, as earlier it might
curdle.
OYSTER TOAST
A nice little dish for a luncheon or a late supper. Scald a quart of
oysters in their own liquor, take them out and pound or chop them
to a paste; add a little cream or fresh butter, and some pepper and
salt. Get ready some thin slices of toast moistened with boiling
water, and spread with fresh butter; then, spread over the butter the
oyster paste. Put a thin slice of fresh cut lemon on each piece, and
lay parsley on the platter. Serve this very hot or it will not be
good.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS.--NO. 1
Lay the oysters in a shallow pan or dish with a little of their own
liquor, some pepper, salt, chopped parsley, butter, and grated bread
crumbs. Have a layer of bread crumbs on the top of the pan, and set
it in the oven to bake a light brown. They should be served hot with
tomato or walnut catsup poured over them.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS.--NO. 2
Procure any quantity of oysters desired, and place in a baking dish;
put alternate layers of oysters and pounded crackers; season each
layer with salt, pepper and butter. When filled, pour on enough milk
to soak the crackers, and bake forty minutes. Serve hot.
OYSTERS FRIED
Take large oysters from their own liquor; dry and lay them in a towel
till you heat, very hot, a cup of lard in a thick-bottomed pan. Dip
each oyster in wheat flour, or rolled cracker, until it will hold
no more; then lay it in the pan. The fire must be moderate, or the
oysters will scorch before cooking through. They will brown on one
side in five minutes, then turn them. Oysters may be dipped in beaten
egg and rolled cracker, and then fried.
OYSTER PICKLE. VERY EASY AND NICE
Wash four dozen oysters; let them be fine and large, with plenty of
their own liquor. Pick them carefully, strain their liquor and to it
add a dessertspoonful of pepper, two blades of mace, a tablespoonful
of salt, and a cup of strong wine vinegar. Simmer the oysters in this
five minutes, then put them in small jars. Boil the pickle again,
and when cold add a cup of fresh vinegar; and fill up the jars, cork
them, and set away for use.
VEAL SWEETBREAD AND OYSTER PIE
The sweetbread of veal is the most delicate part of the animal. Boil
it tender, season with pepper, salt and butter; put in two dozen
oysters; thicken their juice with a cup of cream, a tablespoonful
of butter, the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and a tablespoonful
of flour. Pour all in a deep pan, and cover with paste and bake.
If there is too much liquid, keep it to serve with the pie, if
necessary, when baked. After baking, the pie is sometimes too dry.
BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTER PIE
Cut three pounds of lean beefsteak. Salt, pepper and fry quickly so
as to brown without cooking through; then place in a deep dish. Get
four dozen oysters, beard them, and lay them in the pan over the
beef; season with salt and pepper. Take the gravy in which the steaks
were fried, pour out some of the grease; dredge in a tablespoonful
of flour, let it brown and add to it a pint of good beef broth,
then put in a wine-glassful of mushroom catsup, some of Harvey’s or
Worcestershire sauce; heat it, and let it boil up a few times, then
pour it over the oysters and steak. When the gravy has become cool,
cover the pie with a good puff paste, and bake it for an hour and a
half.
FRICASSEE OF CRABS
Take six nice fat crabs, wash them, and while _alive_ chop off the
claws; then clean the rest of the crabs carefully and lay them in a
dish. Chop up two onions fine, fry them in a tablespoonful of butter
and lard mixed; when brown and soft stir in a large spoonful of
flour, which must also brown nicely; throw in some chopped parsley
and a little green onion, and when they are cooked pour on a quart
of boiling water--this is the gravy. Now put in the crabs without
parboiling. Let them simmer in the gravy for half an hour, and serve
with boiled rice. Parboiling crabs destroys their flavor; they should
be alive to the last moment.
SOFT-SHELLED CRABS, FRIED
Clean the crabs properly, dip them into rolled cracker, and fry them
in hot lard salted. They must be dried carefully before frying, or
they will not brown well. Serve with any favorite sauce.
TO DRESS A TURTLE
Cut off the head and let it bleed well. Separate the bottom shell
from the top with care, for fear of breaking the gall bag. Throw
the liver and eggs, if any, into a bowl of water. Slice off all the
meat from the under-shell and put in water also; break the shell in
pieces, wash carefully and place it in a pot; cover it with water,
and add one pound of middling or flitch of bacon with four chopped
onions. Set this on the fire to boil. (If preferred, open and clean
the chitterlings or intestines also--some use them.) Let this boil
gently for four hours; keep the liver to fry. While the under-shell
is boiling, wash the top-shell neatly, cut all the meat out, cover it
up and set it by. Parboil the fins, clean them perfectly; take off
the black skin and throw them into water. Now cut the flesh removed
from both shells into small pieces; cut the fins up; sprinkle with
salt, cover and set them by. When the pot containing the shells,
etc., has boiled four hours, take out the bacon, scrape the shell,
clean and strain the liquor, pour back in the pot about one quart,
and put the rest by for the soup (Turtle Soup No. 2). Pick out the
nice pieces strained out, and put with the fins in the gravy. Add
to the meat one bottle of wine, one gill mushroom catsup, one gill
of lemon pickle, cloves, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and one pound fresh
butter rolled in flour. Stew together; take out the herbs, thicken
with flour and put in the shell to bake with a puff paste around it.
Trim with eggs.
“GRENOUILLES FRITES,” OR FRIED FROGS