The knots so far described are used mainly for fastening rope ends
together or for ending a rope. A quite different class of knots is that
used for fastening a rope to a stationary or solid object. This type of
knots is known as hitches.
Hitches as well as other types of knots should be easily made, should
not slip under strains and should be easily untied. If all ropes
were the same size and stiffness it would be possible to select two
or three knots which would meet all requirements. But, since this is
not true and since a knot suitable for a silken fish line will not be
satisfactory for a ship’s hawser, we find a great variety of knots,
each of which is designed to meet some special requirements of service.
The following illustrations show a variety of the most typical and
useful knots used on fiber or manila rope.
Fig. 49. The Half-hitch is good only for temporary fastenings where
pull is continuous. It is usually used as part of a more elaborate
hitch.
Fig. 50. The Timber-hitch is very similar to the Half-hitch but is much
more permanent and secure. Instead of the end being passed under the
standing part once it is wound around the standing part three or four
times as shown.
[Illustration: _Fig. 49; Fig. 50; Fig. 51; Fig. 52_]
Fig. 51. The Clove, or Builder’s-hitch, is more secure than either of
the above hitches. It will hold fast on a smooth timber and is used
extensively by builders for fastening the staging to upright posts. It
will hold without slipping on wet timber. It is also used to make the
scaffold hitch.
Fig. 52. The Rolling-hitch is made by wrapping the rope three or four
times around the object to which it is to be fastened and then making
two half-hitches around the standing part of the rope. It is then drawn
tight. This hitch is easily and quickly made and is very secure.
Fig. 53. This illustrates another type of Rolling-hitch very similar to
the above but which is not as secure under a heavy strain.
[Illustration: _Fig. 53; Fig. 54_]
Fig. 54. The Snubbing-hitch is made by passing the rope around the
object to which it is desired to fasten it, and then making what is
known as a Taut-line hitch, Figure 68, about the standing part of the
rope.
[Illustration: _Fig. 55; Fig. 56_]
Fig. 55. Timber-hitch and Half-hitch is a combination of the two
separate hitches shown in Fig. 49 and Fig 50. It is more secure than
either used alone.
Fig. 56. The Chain-hitch is a combination of the above hitch and two
or more half-hitches. It is used for hauling in a larger rope or cable
with a tow line, etc.
Fig. 57. The Twist-hitch is more secure than the Half-hitch and it is
suitable only where the strain is continuous.
Fig. 58. Twist-and-bow-hitch is similar to the Simple Twist-hitch but
is easier to untie.
[Illustration: _Fig. 57; Fig. 58; Fig. 59; Fig. 60; Fig. 61_]
Fig. 59. The Blackwall-hitch is widely used as illustrated. The greater
the strain the more securely it holds, but it is unreliable if the rope
is slack. This hitch can be used with chain as well as rope.
Fig. 60. The Lark’s-head with toggle is easily made and is
used as a rule where it is desired to have a type of hitch which is
easily and quickly released.
Fig. 61. Round-turn-and-half-hitch is suitable for a more or
less permanent method of attaching a rope to a ring. Whipping the
end to the standing part of the rope makes it quite permanent.
[Illustration: _Fig. 62; Fig. 63; Fig. 64; Fig. 65; Fig. 66_]
Fig. 62. The Fisherman’s hitch is used for fastening large ropes or
lines to rings and is very similar to the hitch shown in Fig. 61. It is
improved by whipping the free end to the standing part.
Fig. 63. The Cat’s-paw-hitch is suitable for attaching a hook to the
middle part of a rope where the ends are not free. Strain may be taken
on either or both ends. It is easily released.
Fig. 64. The Slippery-hitch is easily made, but has the objection that
it draws very tight under strain, making it hard to untie.
Fig. 65. The Double Blackwall is similar to the Single Blackwall and is
used for the same purpose.
Fig. 66. The Slip Knot and Half-hitch constitute a combination that
is used for the same purpose as the Flemish loop. It is made by first
tying a slip knot so that it will run on the short end of the rope.
Then complete by tying a half hitch with the short end as shown.
[Illustration: _Fig. 67; Fig. 68_]
Fig. 67. The Fisherman’s-bend is similar to the Fisherman’s-hitch
except that the half hitches are replaced with whipping.
Fig. 68. A Taut-line-hitch is used for attaching a rope to another rope
already under strain, where no slack is available for making any other
hitch. It is not secure unless pulled very tight. A few threads of hemp
or marlin served about the taut line for the knot to pull against will
improve the hitch.
[Illustration: _Fig. 69; Fig. 70; Fig. 71; Fig. 72_]
Fig. 69. The Jam Hitch is used in tying up light packages, such as
bundles of lath, small boxes, rolls of paper, and the like. It is a
hitch that will slide along a cord in one direction, but will jam
and hold against moving the other way and will be found exceedingly
convenient. The Jam Hitch will answer the requirements provided the
cord is large enough and of not too hard a body nor too smooth a
surface.
Fig. 70. The Scaffold-hitch is very useful for slinging a scaffold so
that it will not turn in the sling. It is started by making a Clove
hitch with the two free ends of the rope below the scaffold. Then draw
each rope back on itself and up over opposite sides of the board, where
the short end is joined to the other with a bowline. Plenty of slack in
the Clove will make it possible to draw the bight of each end out to
the edge of the scaffold as shown in the left of the figure. The two
illustrations at the right of the figure show another method of making
a Scaffold hitch. Wrap the rope around the scaffold plank so that it
crosses the top of the plank three times. Pull the middle loop as shown
by the arrow and fold it down over the end of the plank, resulting as
shown in the illustration immediately to the left of the arrow. This
is completed by attaching the free end to the standing part with a
bowline. Both hitches are equally good.
Fig. 71. The Studding-sail-bend is frequently employed on shipboard for
attaching a rope or line to a spar.
Fig. 72. The Midshipman’s-hitch is somewhat similar to the Snubbing
hitch shown in Figure 54, but is perhaps a little easier to make if the
rope is under a strain while being tied.
[Illustration: _Fig. 73; Fig. 74; Fig. 75; Fig. 76_]
Fig. 73. A Bale-sling as shown is useful where it is necessary to hoist
an object to which it is difficult to attach the hoisting tackle. It
may be used on bales, sacks, kegs, etc.
Fig. 74. The Hamburger hitch is useful in connection with a bale sling
which is too long for the object it is carrying. It is also used to
balance the load where two slings are used. The sling is placed around
the load as in Fig. 73. Then with the loop end of the sling form a
second loop as shown. Where the two ropes cross start to tie a square
or Reef knot. Draw up the loops as shown, resulting in the Hamburger
hitch. This may be adjusted by running the knot up or down the rope
while slack, but it will not slip under strain.
Fig. 75. Sling for a cask, head up, is very useful where it is desired
to hoist an open barrel of water or lime or other material. Tie an
ordinary knot over the barrel lengthwise. Then separate the two ropes
in the middle of the twisted part and drop them over the head of the
cask or barrel. Fasten the two rope ends together above the barrel as
shown with a bowline.
Fig. 76. A Well Pipe Hitch is used in hoisting pipe, where no special
clamp is available for attaching the hoisting tackle to the pipe. The
hitch shown will pull tighter, the harder the strain, and is also easy
to untie. Pull up all slack possible in the coils when forming the
hitch, in order to prevent slipping when the strain is first applied.
[Illustration: _Fig. 77_]
Fig. 77. The Hackamore hitch is commonly known and used as an emergency
rope bridle or halter, in the western part of the United States. Among
sailors it is known as a running turk’s head, and it may be used in
carrying a jug or other vessel of similar shape. When used for a halter
about twenty feet will be required. The knot is started by forming a
bight in the center of the rope. Proceed as indicated in the successive
illustrations shown. The result will be a running turk’s head. Draw
together the two center ropes forming a bridle complete with bit,
nose piece, head piece and reins. Such a bridle is not suitable for
continuous use, to be sure, but it will be found useful in an emergency.
Fig. 78. The Halter Tie is a knot preferred by some persons for use in
hitching or in tying the halter rope in the stall. If properly set,
it is secure and may be used in some cases in place of the underhand
bowline knot. The halter tie should never be used around a horse’s
neck, because if the tie is not set up correctly it forms a slip knot
and its use might result in strangulation of the animal. In completing
the tie draw the end through and set the knot by pulling first on the
short end. This is important. If the long rope is pulled first and the
kinks in it are straightened out, the tie forms a slip knot, being
simply two half hitches around the rope.
Fig. 79. Horse-hitch or tie is commonly used by farmers and stockmen
to tie a horse or cow with a rope, so it will not choke itself. Tie
an overhand knot in the standing part of the rope and leave open. Tie
another overhand knot or a Stevedore knot in the end of the rope. Loop
the rope around the animal’s neck and insert the knotted end through
the open Overhand knot. This hitch will not slip and choke the animal.
[Illustration: _Fig. 78; Fig. 79; Fig. 80; Fig. 81_]
Fig. 80. The Manger tie is used for tying a horse or other animal to
a manger or stanchion or hitching rack. The end of the halter rope is
first passed through the hole in the manger with a bight or loop on the
free end of the rope, tie a slip knot on the standing part. Stick the
free end of the rope through the loop or bow as shown. This knot is
easily and quickly tied, but under great strain will pull tight, making
it hard to untie.
Fig. 81. The Figure Eight Manger Tie is superior to the ordinary Manger
Tie in that it will not pull tight under heavy strain such as would
occur if the animal became frightened and attempted to break away. Pass
the free end of the rope through the hole in the manger or around the
hitching rack. Form a bight or loop with the free end of the rope and
hold the loop along the standing part. With the free end form another
loop and serve around both the first loop and the standing part.
Complete the tie by inserting the second loop through the first loop
and secure by inserting the free end of the rope through the second
loop as shown. This is easily untied by first withdrawing the free end
from the loop and then pulling on same until knot is untied.
[Illustration: _Fig. 82; Fig. 83; Fig. 84_]
Fig. 82. The Harness hitch is employed for forming a loop on a rope
in such a way that strain may be applied to both ends and to the loop
without slipping. Start to tie an Over-hand knot as shown. Reach
through between the two twisted parts and draw the opposite side of the
loop through, following the arrow. The completed harness hitch appears
as shown.
Fig. 83. The Strap hitch or Line knot is used to join the free ends of
two leather driving lines on a team. It may be employed as an emergency
tie for a broken line or strap but is not to be recommended as a
permanent repair.
Fig. 84. The Clevis hitch is used for forming a loop on the end of a
rope which is both secure under strain and easily untied.