By A. O. Wheeler
Director Alpine Club of Canada
_Yoho Glacier._
The Yoho glacier is situated at the head of the Yoho valley and is of
very spectacular appearance. It presents a magnificent cascade of broken
ice falling into the valley a long way below timber line and the forest
is seen thickly clothing the heights far above it.
The glacier is of the alpine type. It has its origin in the Wapta
icefield, a wide snow covered tract of ice with an area of some
twenty-five square miles, and affords one of the principal overflows
that maintain the yearly accumulation of snow on this great basin at a
constant level.
The glacier presents a splendid opportunity for study and observation.
It is readily accessible by the pony trails that traverse the valley and
can be reached in a day from either Emerald lake chalet or the Takakkaw
falls summer camp, to both of which places good driving roads are open
from the village of Field on the C.P.R. railway.
From glaciers at the summit of Balfour pass, lying some two and a half
miles east of Yoho glacier, Waves creek flows westward and is the main
source of Yoho river. Until recently the bed of Waves creek, a deep,
narrow rock canyon, lay, at its terminal point, beneath the icefall of
the Yoho glacier and there joined with the flow from it, reappearing at
the nose of the glacier as the Yoho river. As a result of this
combination, during the summer months, a very beautiful ice cave was
formed at the nose of the glacier, which was a source of much delight to
visitors. The ice, however, has been in retreat for many years and has
now gone back so far that the bed of Waves creek is quite clear of it
and the great ice arch formed yearly by its torrent is no longer seen.
In 1906, the Alpine Club of Canada, through the writer, began
observations and measurements of the flow and advance of retreat of the
ice. Such observations were carried on steadily, year by year, until
1919, when, owing to the ice tongue having shrunken very greatly and
having become much crevassed, they were discontinued.
During the period of twelve years it has been found by measurements from
marked rocks that the ice has receded 396 feet; also by means of metal
plates placed on the surface of the forefoot the movement of which was
annually measured, it was found that the mean average rate of surface
flow of the ice has been 3·3 inches per day for the period mentioned.
The Yoho glacier is but one half a dozen that flow from the Wapta
icefield, and the icefield itself one of many such wide snow-filled
basins that lie among the crest of the Main Range of the Rocky mountains
and culminate in the great Columbia icefield with an area of 110 square
miles of ice and snow, reaching out with numerous ramifications and many
magnificent ice-falls.
_Victoria Glacier._
The Victoria glacier is of the _alpine type_, that is, has its origin in
the snow that accumulates at the summit of the Abbot pass, and is fed by
snow and ice avalanching from the adjacent slopes of Mts. Lefroy and
Victoria.
It flows in a narrow channel between the precipitous sides of the two
mountains named, which is known as the death Trap, owing to the number
of avalanches that are precipitated from side to side directly across
its bed. It is wise to make the traverse of this part of the glacier
during the early morning hours before avalanches begin to fall. The
altitude of the pass is 9,588 feet above sea level. The snow covered
part of the glacier, or névé, below the pass lies at an altitude of
about 7,500 feet. The Lefroy glacier comes in as a tributary from the
southeast from below the cliffs of Mt. Lefroy.
The length of the Victoria glacier is about 2¾ miles. The Lefroy glacier
is about 1 mile in length. The combined glaciers flow down the valley.
The forefoot or tongue of the glacier is covered by a thick veneer of
rock detritus carried down by the flow of the ice and fallen from the
cliffs of Popes peak on the west side, and Mt. Aberdeen on the east. The
ice terminates at from 1½ to 2 miles from the end of lake Louise. Owing
to the close proximity of the glacier to Lake Louise Château, the C.P.R.
tourist hotel, and its easy access therefrom it is of great interest on
account of the many spectacular features it present and its unique
setting of cliffs and snow clad mountains. Particularly may be mentioned
the number of avalanches that thunder into Death Trap daily and the
exhibit of semi-circular markings, known as “Forbes dirt bands” seen on
the body of the ice opposite the junction with the Lefroy glacier.
The Victoria glacier has been steadily receding for many years.
Observations carried on by George and William S. Vaux, and later by Miss
Mary Vaux of Philadelphia (now Mrs. Charles Walcott), show that between
1898 and 1903 the glacier receded about 17 feet annually or about 85
feet for the 5 years. Subsequent measurements by Miss Vaux show that for
the year 1909 to 1912 the ice receded 43 feet. The amount of recession
is small compared with that of other glaciers, but a reason is found in
the fact that the whole ice forefoot is thickly covered with a veneer of
broken rock which protects it from the sun’s rays and reduces the
melting process to a minimum.
Of late years no measurements have been made for advance or retreat of
the ice but, as all the most prominent glaciers of the Canadian Rockies
are known to be receding, it is assumed that the same has been the case
with the Victoria glacier.
_Wenkchemna Glacier._
The Wenkchemna glacier lies at the northern base of the Ten Peaks in the
valley of Moraine lake. The name is of Sioux Indian origin, Signifying
ten, and was given to the glacier by Mr. S. E. S. Allen, an early
explorer, in relation to the Ten Peaks.
It is of the _piedmont type_ of glacier, that is, has its source from a
number of commensal streams of ice, fed by snow falling upon the eastern
slopes of the Ten Peaks. These independent streams descend to the valley
of Moraine lake and are so close to one another that when they reach the
floor of the valley they spread out laterally and join together, forming
a single glacier with a breadth of about three miles and a length of
from one-half to one mile. Its supply is maintained by the independent
ice streams referred to above. Glaciers so formed are known as the
“piedmont type.”
The Wenkchemna glacier lies at an altitude between 6,400 feet and 7,500
feet and the easternmost nose is about 400 feet higher than that of the
Victoria glacier.
No systematic observations of the Wenkchemna glacier have been made but
it has been visited and photographed several times by Messrs. William S.
and George Vaux, and Miss Vaux of Philadelphia. Their observations have
shown that the glacier has made an advance while all the other glaciers
in the district have been in retreat. In its advance, it has encroached
on the living forest and has crushed and thrown down the green timber.
Its advance is probably due to the fact that its surface is thickly
covered with broken rock, fallen from the precipitous sides of the Ten
Peaks, and the melting of the ice has been less than the accession it
receives from the ice streams that feed it.
In the absence of systematic observations and measurements it is not
known whether it is continuing to advance, is stationary or is in
retreat. Like the Victoria glacier it affords a feature of very great
interest for observation and scientific study, owing to its easy access
from Lake Louise Château and the summer camp for visitors which is
maintained at Moraine lake close to the glacier.
_Illecillewaet Glacier._
The Illecillewaet glacier is commonly referred to as the Great glacier
of the Selkirks, although it is by no means the largest one. It is,
however, one of the most spectacular, and is seen from Glacier House,
the C.P.R. Hotel near the railway summit of the range, falling some five
thousand feet from skyline of the icefield in which it has its source.
Seen from high up on the opposite mountain side, it presents a
bird’s-eye view that is unique and altogether entrancing.
The glacier is of the _alpine type_ and is fed by the overflow from the
Illecillewaet icefield, which contains an area of some ten square miles.
The icefall is of special interest, owing to the fact that it is
situated about one and a half miles from the hotel and is reached by a
delightful pony trail through primeval forest—forest presenting a most
picturesque setting of giant cedar, hemlock and spruce trees, and, at
their base, an impenetrable tangle of thick undergrowth, midst which the
many-spined devil’s club repels the would-be explorer by its poisonous
punctures. This barrier is of semi-tropical luxuriance and is justly
famous in the valleys of the Selkirks. It is, however, not without its
attractions, for the wonderful collection of ferns, the bright berries
of the devil’s club, the handsome white flowers of the wild rhododendron
and the luscious fruit of the huckleberry are most alluring.
There are two other special features for which the Illecillewaet glacier
is famous. One is the low altitude at which the nose of the ice-fall is
found, 4,800 feet, while timber line lies at 7,300 feet; consequently
the ice extends 2,500 feet down into the virgin forest. The other is the
immense terminal moraines, consisting of great blocks of rock weighing
hundreds of tons, which are seen across the valley below the glacier.
These moraines have been deposited by the ice many hundred years ago and
are now grown with huge trees and other forest growth. Owing to their
appearance and the frequent cave-like openings between blocks, they are
referred to by Dr. Sherzer, in his treatise on the subject, as “Bear Den
Moraines”. The ice has now retreated a long way from them.
Some years ago the Illecillewaet glacier presented a fine ice cave at
its snout which was much visited by tourists from Glacier House, but
owing to the continued retreat and shrinkage to which the icefall has
been subjected for many years, it is now a feature of the past.
Observations and measurements of the ice-fall were carried on during a
series of years by Messrs. Vaux and Miss Vaux (Mrs. Charles Walcott) of
Philadelphia, the results of which may be summarized as follows:
August 17th, 1898, the most advanced point of the ice forefoot was 60
feet from a deeply imbedded marked boulder. On July 24, 1906, it was 327
feet from the same boulder. On the 19th July, 1912, the ice was found to
have retreated 615 feet from the boulder. Since then the ice has receded
very considerably and the forefoot shrunken greatly in size and
spectacular appearances. Of late years the measurements do not seem to
have been continued and the distance from the boulder is not known to
the writer. The average maximum surface flow of the ice forefoot during
the periods 1898 to 1912 appears from the observations referred to above
to have been approximately five inches per day.
Directly above the icefall towers the Selkirk giant, Mt. Sir Donald,
10,808 feet above sea level, which furnishes one of the most attractive
climbs of the region for mountaineers. From its summit is seen a world
of snowy peaks, widespread icefields, tumbling glaciers and winding
silver streams in the depths of darkly forested valleys filled with
violet haze.
_Asulkan Glacier._
Tributary to the valley of the Illecillewaet glacier is the Asulkan
(Wild Goat) valley, which is, perhaps, the most beautiful specimen of a
mountain valley traversed by a rushing glacier torrent, that can be
found. On either hand are towering mountain slopes and precipices,
exalted rock ledges from which spectacular waterfalls leap from great
heights, overhanging snow crests which often send roaring avalanches
sweeping all before them into the valley below and far up the opposite
side.
At the head of the valley lies the Asulkan glacier. It is of the
_piedmont type_, created by three commensal streams of ice. According to
Dr. Sherzer, it is now in its second childhood. The piedmont
characteristics are disappearing and the glacier resolving itself into
the original glaciers of alpine type which gave rise to it.
It is easy of access from Glacier House, and of great interest to
observers. It has its chief source in the Asulkan icefield, which leads
to a snow crest or col, known as the Asulkan pass. On the opposite side
of the pass a steep descent brings one to the ice stream of the Geikie
glacier, the southern overflow of the Illecillewaet icefield. Beyond,
lies the steep icefall of the Dawson glacier and Mts. Dawson and Selwyn,
over 11,000 feet above sea level.
In the case of the Asulkan glacier, also, observations and measurements
were carried on by Messrs. Vaux and Miss Vaux.
On August 12, 1899, a rock in line with the farthest advanced ice of the
forefoot was marked. On August 8, 1900, the ice had receded 24 feet. On
August 6, 1901, the ice had advanced 36 feet. On July 23, 1906, the ice
was again in line with the rock; that is in the same position as in
1899.
Subsequent observations by Miss Vaux show that between August 20, 1909,
and July 27, 1912, the ice had retreated 259 feet from the marked rock.
During the interval the observations on August 9, 1911, show that the
ice had again advanced 51 feet. No measurements made since that date
have come to the knowledge of the writer.
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