Morning dawned at length, and in a short time afterwards we reached the
great commercial city, which, half destroyed by the dreadful
conflagration of 1842, had risen grander and more majestic from its
ashes. {11} I took up my quarters with a cousin, who is married to the
Wurtemburg consul, the merchant Schmidt, in whose house I spent a most
agreeable and happy week. My cousin-in-law was polite enough to escort
me every where himself, and to shew me the lions of Hamburgh.
First of all we visited the Exchange between the hours of one and two,
when it is at the fullest, and therefore best calculated to impress a
stranger with an idea of the extent and importance of the business
transacted there. The building contains a hall of great size, with
arcades and galleries, besides many large rooms, which are partly used
for consultations, partly for the sale of refreshments. The most
interesting thing of all is, however, to sit in the gallery, and looking
downwards, to observe the continually increasing crowd passing and
repassing each other in the immense hall and through the galleries and
chambers, and to listen to the hubbub and noise of the thousands of eager
voices talking at once. At half-past one o'clock the hall is at its
fullest, and the noise becomes absolutely deafening; for now they are
marking up the rates of exchange, by which the merchants regulate their
monetary transactions.
Leaving the Exchange, we bent our steps towards the great harbour, and
entering a small boat, cruised in and about it in all directions. I had
resolved to count only the three-masted ships; but soon gave it up, for
their number seemed overwhelming, even without reckoning the splendid
steamers, brigs, sloops, and craft. In short, I could only gaze and
wonder, for at least 900 ships lay before me.
Let any one fancy an excursion amidst 900 ships, great and small, which
lined both shores of the Elbe in tiers of three deep or more; the passing
to and fro of countless boats busily employed in loading or unloading
these vessels; these things, together with the shouting and singing of
the sailors, the rattling of anchors which are being weighed, and the
rush and swell of passing steamers, combine to constitute a picture not
to be surpassed in any city except in that metropolis of the world,
London. {12}
The reason of this unusual activity in the harbour lay in the severity of
the past winter. Such a winter had not been experienced for seventy
years: the Elbe and the Baltic lay for months in icy chains, and not a
ship could traverse the frozen river, not an anchor could be weighed or
lowered. It was only a short time before my arrival that the passage had
once more become free.
In the neighbourhood of the harbour are situated the greater number of
the so-called "yards." I had read concerning them that, viewed from the
exterior, they look like common houses; but that they constitute separate
communities, and contain alleys and streets, serving as the domicile of
innumerable families. I visited several of these places, and can assure
the reader that I saw nothing extraordinary in them. Houses with two
large wings, forming an alley of from eighty to a hundred paces in
length, are to be met with in every large town; and that a number of
families should inhabit such a house is not remarkable, considering that
they are all poor, and that each only possesses a single small apartment.
The favourite walk in the town is the "Jungfernstieg" (Maiden's Walk), a
broad alley, extending round a spacious and beautiful basin of the
Alster. On one side are splendid hotels, with which Hamburgh is richly
provided; on the other, a number of private residences of equal
pretensions. Other walks are, the "Wall," surrounding the town, and the
"Botanical Garden," which resembles a fine park. The noblest building,
distinguished alike as regards luxury, skill, tastefulness of design, and
stability, is the Bazaar. It is truly a gigantic undertaking, and the
more to be admired from the fact that it is not built upon shares, but at
the expense of a single individual, Herr Carl Sillem; the architect's
name is Overdick. The building itself is constructed entirely of stone,
and the walls of the great room and of the hall are inlaid with marble.
A lofty cupola and an immense glazed dome cover both the great room and
the hall; the upper staircases are ornamented with beautiful statues.
When in the evening it is brilliantly lighted with gas, and further
ornamented by a tasteful display of the richest wares, the spectator can
almost fancy himself transported to a fairy palace.
Altogether the shops in Hamburgh are very luxurious. The wares lie
displayed in the most tasteful manner behind huge windows of plate-glass,
which are often from five to six feet broad, and eight or ten feet high;
a single sheet frequently costs 600 florins. This plate-glass luxury is
not confined to shops, but extends to windows generally, not only in
Hamburgh, but also in Altona, and is also seen in the handsomest
country-houses of the Hamburghers. Many a pane costs eight or ten
florins; and the glass is insured in case of breakage, like houses in
case of fire.
This display of glass is equalled by the costliness of the furniture,
which is almost universally of mahogany; a wood which is here in such
common use, that in some of the most elegant houses the very
stair-banisters are constructed of it. Even the pilots have often
mahogany furniture.
The handsomest and most frequented street is the "Neue Wall" (New Wall).
I was particularly struck with the number of shops and dwellings
underground, to which one descends by a flight of six or eight stairs; an
iron railing is generally placed before the entrance, to prevent the
passers-by from falling down.
A very practical institution is the great slaughterhouse, in which all
cattle are killed on certain days of the week.
Concerning the town of Altona, I have only to observe that it appeared to
me a continuation of Hamburgh; from which town, indeed, it is only
separated by a wooden door. A very broad, handsome street, or, more
properly speaking, an elongated square, planted with a double row of
large trees, is the most remarkable thing about Altona, which belongs to
the Danish Government, and is considered, after Copenhagen, the most
important place in the kingdom.
It is a delicious ride to the village of Blankenese, distant nine miles
from Hamburgh; the road lies among beautiful country-houses and large
park-like gardens. Blankenese itself consists of cottages, grouped in a
picturesque manner round the Sulberg, a hill from which the traveller
enjoys a very extended view over the great plain, in which it is the only
elevated point. The course of the Elbe, as it winds at moderate speed
towards the sea, is here to be traced almost to its embouchure at
Cuxhaven.
The breadth of the Elbe at Blankenese exceeds two miles.
Another interesting excursion is to the "New Mills," a little village on
the Elbe, not more than half a mile from Altona, and inhabited only by
fishermen and pilots. Whoever wishes to form an idea of Dutch prettiness
and cleanliness should come here.
The houses are mostly one story high, neatly and tastefully built; the
brightest of brass handles adorn the street-doors; the windows are kept
scrupulously clean, and furnished with white curtains.
In Saxony I had found many dwellings of the peasantry tidy and neat
enough, displaying at any rate more opulence than we are accustomed to
find with this class of people; but I had seen none to compete with this
pretty village.
Among the peasants' costumes, I only liked that worn by the women from
the "Vierlanden." They wear short full skirts of black stuff, fine white
chemisettes with long sleeves, and coloured bodices, lightly fastened in
front with silk cords or silver buckles. Their straw hats have a most
comical appearance; the brim of the hat is turned up in such a manner
that the crown appears to have completely sunk in. Many pretty young
girls dressed in this manner come to Hamburgh to sell flowers, and take
up their position in front of the Exchange.
The 26th of April, the day appointed for my departure, arrived only too
speedily. To part is the unavoidable fate of the traveller; but
sometimes we part gladly, sometimes with regret. I need not write many
pages to describe my feelings at the parting in Hamburgh. I was leaving
behind me my last relations, my last friends. Now I was going into the
wide world, and among strangers.
At eight o'clock in the morning I left Altona, and proceeded by railway
to Kiel.
I noticed with pleasure that on this railway even the third-class
carriages were securely covered in, and furnished with glass windows. In
fact, they only differed from those of the first and second class in
being painted a different colour, and having the seats uncushioned.
The whole distance of seventy miles was passed in three hours; a rapid
journey, but agreeable merely by its rapidity, for the whole
neighbourhood presents only widely-extended plains, turf-bogs and
moorlands, sandy places and heaths, interspersed with a little meadow or
arable land. From the nature of the soil, the water in the ditches and
fields looked black as ink.
Near Binneburg we notice a few stunted plantations of trees. From
Eisholm a branch-line leads to Gluckstadt, and another from Neumunster, a
large place with important cloth-factories, to Rendsburg.
From here there is nothing to be seen but a convent, in which many Dukes
of Holstein lie buried, and several unimportant lakes; for instance,
those of Bernsholm, Einfeld, and Schulhof. The little river Eider would
have passed unnoticed by me, had not some of my fellow-passengers made a
great feature of it. In the finest countries I have found the natives
far less enthusiastic about what was really grand and beautiful, than
they were here in praise of what was neither the one nor the other. My
neighbour, a very agreeable lady, was untiring in laudation of her
beautiful native land. In her eyes the crippled wood was a splendid
park, the waste moorland an inexhaustible field for contemplation, and
every trifle a matter of real importance. In my heart I wished her joy
of her fervid imagination; but unfortunately my colder nature would not
catch the infection.
Towards Kiel the plain becomes a region of low hills. Kiel itself is
prettily situated on the Baltic, which, viewed from thence, has the
appearance of a lake of middling size. The harbour is said to be good;
but there were not many ships there. {13} Among these was the steamer
destined to carry me to Copenhagen. Little did I anticipate the good
reason I should have to remember this vessel.
Thanks to the affectionate forethought of my cousin Schmidt, I found one
of his relations, Herr Brauer, waiting for me at the railway. I was
immediately introduced to his family, and passed the few hours of my stay
very agreeably in their company.
Evening approached, and with it the hour of embarkation. My kind friends
the Brauers accompanied me to the steamer, and I took a grateful leave of
them.
I soon discovered the steamer _Christian VIII._, of 180-horse power, to
be a vessel dirtier and more uncomfortable than any with which I had
become acquainted in my maritime excursions. Scrubbing and sweeping
seemed things unknown here. The approach to the cabin was by a flight of
stairs so steep, that great care was requisite to avoid descending in an
expeditious but disagreeable manner, by a fall from top to bottom. In
the fore-cabin there was no attempt at separate quarters for ladies and
gentlemen. In short, the arrangements seemed all to have been made with
a view of impressing the ship vividly on the recollection of every
traveller.
At nine o'clock we left Kiel. The day and the twilight are here already
longer than in the lands lying to the south and the west. There was
light enough to enable me to see, looming out of the surrounding
darkness, the fortress "Friedrichsort," which we passed at about ten
o'clock.
April 27th.
To-day I still rose with the sun; but that will soon be a difficult
matter to accomplish; for in the north the goddess of light makes amends
in spring and summer for her shortcomings during the winter. I went on
deck, and looked on the broad expanse of ocean. No land was to be seen;
but soon a coast appeared, then disappeared, and then a new and more
distant one rose out of the sea. Towards noon we reached the island of
Moen, which lies about forty {14} miles distant from Copenhagen. It
forms a beautiful group of rocks, rising boldly from the sea. They are
white as chalk, and have a smooth and shining appearance. The highest of
these walls of rock towers 400 feet above the level of the surrounding
ocean. Soon we saw the coast of Sweden, then the island of Malmo; and at
last Copenhagen itself, where we landed at four o'clock in the afternoon.
The distance from Kiel to Copenhagen is 136 sea-miles.
I remained seven days at Copenhagen, and should have had ample time to
see every thing, had the weather been more favourable. But it blew and
rained so violently, that I was obliged to give up all thoughts of
visiting the surrounding parks, and was fain to content myself with
seeing a few of the nearest walks, which I accomplished with some
difficulty.
The first street in Copenhagen which I traversed on coming from the
harbour generally produces a great impression. It is called the "Broad
Street," and leads from the harbour through the greater part of the town.
In addition to its breadth it is very long and regular, and the splendid
palaces and houses on either side give it a remarkably grand appearance.
It is a peculiar sight, when, in the midst of this fine quarter, we come
suddenly upon a ruin, a giant building resting on huge pillars, but half
completed, and partly covered with moss and lichens. It was intended for
a splendid church, and is built entirely of marble; but the soft ground
would not bear the immense weight. The half-finished building began to
sink, and the completion of the undertaking became for ever impossible.
Many other streets rival the "Broad Street" in size and magnificence.
Foremost among them comes the Amalienstrasse. The most bustling, but by
far not the finest, are the Oster and Gotherstrasse. To walk in these is
at first quite a difficult undertaking for a stranger. On one side of
the pavement, which is raised about a foot above the carriage-way, he
comes continually in contact with stairs, leading sometimes to warehouses
above, at others to subterranean warehouses below the level of the
street. The approaches to the latter are not guarded by railings as in
Hamburgh. The other side of the pavement is bounded by a little
unostentatious rivulet, called by unpoetical people "canal," into which
tributaries equally sweet pour from all the neighbouring houses. It is
therefore necessary to take great care, lest you should fall into the
traitorous depths on the one side, or stumble over the projecting steps
on the other. The pavement itself is covered with a row of stone slabs,
a foot and a half wide, on which one walks comfortably enough. But then
every body contends for the possession of these, to avoid the uneven and
pointed stones at the side. This, added to the dreadful crowding,
renders the street one which would scarcely be chosen for a walk, the
less so as the shops do not contain any thing handsome, the houses are
neither palace-like nor even tastefully built, and the street itself is
neither of the broadest nor of the cleanest.
The squares are all large and regularly built. The finest is the
Kongensnytorf (King's New Market). Some fine mansions, the chief
guard-house, the theatre, the chief coffee-houses and inns, the academy
of the fine arts, and the building belonging to the botanical garden, the
two last commonly known by the name of "Charlottenburg," are among the
ornaments of this magnificent square, in the midst of which stands a
beautiful monument, representing Christian V. on horseback, and
surrounded by several figures.
Smaller, but more beautiful in its perfect symmetry, is the
"Amalienplatz," containing four royal palaces, built exactly alike, and
intersected by four broad streets in the form of a cross. This square
also is decorated by a monument standing in the midst, and representing
Frederick V. In another fine square, the "Nytorf" (New Market), there is
a fountain. Its little statue sends forth very meagre jets of water, and
the fountain is merely noticeable as being the only one I could find at
Copenhagen.
The traveller can hardly fail of being surprised by the number and
magnificence of the palaces, at sight of which he could fancy himself in
the metropolis of one of the largest kingdoms. The "Christianensburg" is
truly imperial; it was completely destroyed by fire in the year 1794, but
has since been rebuilt with increased splendour. The chapel of this
palace is very remarkable. The interior has the appearance rather of a
concert-room than of a building devoted to purposes of worship.
Tastefully decorated boxes, among which we notice that of the king,
together with galleries, occupy the upper part of the chapel; the lower
is filled with benches covered with red velvet and silk. The pulpit and
altar are so entirely without decoration, that, on first entering, they
wholly escape notice.
In the "Christianensburg" is also the "Northern Museum," peculiarly rich
in specimens of the ornaments, weapons, musical instruments, and other
mementoes of northern nations.
The Winter Riding-school, in which concerts are frequently given, is
large and symmetrical. I admired the stalls, and yet more the grey
horses which occupied them--descendants of the pure Arabian and wild
Norwegian breeds--creatures with long manes and tails of fine silky hair.
Every one who sees these horses, whether he be a connoisseur or one of
the uninitiated, must admire them.
Adjoining the "Christianensburg" is Thorwaldsen's Museum, a square
building with fine saloons, lighted from above. When I saw it, it was
not completed; the walls were being painted in fresco by some of the
first native artists. The sculptured treasures were there, but
unfortunately yet unpacked.
In the midst of the courtyard Thorwaldsen's mausoleum is being erected.
There his ashes will rest, with his exquisitely finished lion as a
gravestone above them. {15}
The largest among the churches is the "Woman's Church." The building has
no architectural beauty; the pillars, galleries, and cupola are all of
wood, covered with a mixture of sand and plaster. But whatever may be
wanting in outward splendour is compensated by its contents, for this
church contains the masterpieces of Thorwaldsen. At the high altar
stands his glorious figure of our Saviour, in the niches of the wall his
colossal twelve apostles.
In the contemplation of these works we forget the plainness of the
building which contains them. May the fates be prosperous, and no
conflagration reach this church, built as it is half of wood!
The Catholic Church is small, but tasteful beyond expression. The late
emperor of Austria presented to it a good full-toned organ, and two
oil-paintings, one by Kuppelweiser, the other by a pupil of this master.
In the "Museum of Arts" I was most interested in the ancient chair, used
in days of yore by Tycho de Brahe. {16}
The Exchange is a curious ancient building. It is very long and narrow,
and surmounted by nine peaks, from the centre of which protrudes a
remarkable pointed tower, formed of four crocodiles' tails intertwined.
The hall itself is small, low, and dark; it contains a full-length
portrait in oil of Tycho de Brahe. Nearly all the upper part of the
building is converted into a kind of bazaar, and the lower portion
contains a number of small and dingy booths.
Several canals, having an outlet into the sea, give a peculiar charm to
the town. They are, in fact, so many markets; for the craft lying in
them are laden with provisions of all kinds, which are here offered for
sale.
The Sailors' Town, adjoining Copenhagen, and situated near the harbour,
is singularly neat and pretty. It consists of three long, broad,
straight streets, built of houses looking so exactly alike, that on a
foggy night an accurate knowledge of the locality is requisite to know
one from the other. It looks as though, on each side of the way, there
were only one long house of a single floor, with a building one story
high in the middle. In the latter dwell the commandant and overseers.
The lighting of the streets is managed in Copenhagen in the same way as
in our smaller German towns. When "moonlight" is announced in the
calendar, not a lamp is lighted. If the lady moon chooses to hide behind
dark clouds, that is her fault. It would be insolent to attempt to
supply the place of her radiance with miserable lamps--a wise
arrangement! (?)
Of the near walks, the garden of the "Rosenburg," within the town,
pleased me much; as did also the "Long Line," an alley of beautiful trees
extending parallel with the sea, and in which one can either walk or
ride. A coffee-house, in front of which there is music in fine weather,
attracts many of the loungers. The most beautiful place of all is the
"Kastell," above the "Long Line," from whence one can enjoy a beautiful
view. The town lies displayed below in all its magnificence: the
harbour, with its many ships; the sparkling blue Sound, which spreads its
broad expanse between the coasts of Denmark and Sweden, and washes many a
beautiful group of islands belonging to one or the other of these
countries. The background of the picture alone is uninteresting, as
there is no chain of mountains to form a horizon, and the eye wanders
over the boundless flats of Denmark.
Among the vessels lying at anchor in the harbour I saw but few
three-masters, and still fewer steamers. The ships of the fleet
presented a curious appearance; at the first view they look like great
houses with flag-staves, for every ship is provided with a roof, out of
which the masts rise into the air; they are besides very high out of the
water, so that all the port-holes and the windows of the cabins appear in
two or three stories, one above the other.
A somewhat more distant excursion, which can be very conveniently made in
a capital omnibus, takes you to the royal chateau "Friedrichsberg," lying
before the water-gate, two miles distant from the town. Splendid avenues
lead to this place, where are to be found all the delights that can
combine to draw a citizen into the country. There are a tivoli, a
railway, cabinets, and booths with wax-figures, and countless other
sights, besides coffee-houses, beer-rooms, and music. The gardens are
planted at the sides with a number of small arbours, each containing a
table and chairs, and all open in front, so as to shew at one view all
the visitors of these pretty natural huts. On Sundays, when the gardens
are crowded, this is a very animated sight.
On the way to this "Prater" of Copenhagen, we pass many handsome villas,
each standing in a fine garden.
[Picture: Copenhagen: From Frederiesbourg]
The royal palace is situated on the summit of a hill, at the end of the
avenue, and is surrounded by a beautiful park; it commands a view of a
great portion of the town, with the surrounding country and the sea;
still I far prefer the prospect from the "Kastell." The Park contains a
considerable island, which, during some part of the year, stands in the
midst of an extensive lake. This island is appropriated to the Court,
but the rest of the park is open to the public.
Immediately outside the water-gate stands an obelisk, remarkable neither
for its beauty nor for the skill displayed in its erection, for it
consists of various stones, and is not high, but interesting from the
circumstance to which it owes its origin. It was erected by his grateful
subjects in memory of the late king Christian VII., to commemorate the
abolition of feudal service. Surely no feeling person can contemplate
without joyful emotion a monument like this.
I have here given a faithful account of what I saw during my short stay
at Copenhagen. It only remains for me to describe a few peculiar customs
of the people, and so I will begin as it were at the end, with the burial
of the dead. In Denmark, as in fact in the whole of Scandinavia, not
excepting Iceland, it is customary not to bury the dead until eight or
ten days have elapsed. In winter-time this is not of so much
consequence, but in summer it is far from healthy for those under the
same roof with the corpse. I was present at Copenhagen at the funeral of
Dr. Brandis, physician to the king. Two of the king's carriages and a
number of private equipages attended. Nearly all these were empty, and
the servants walked beside them. Among the mourners I did not notice a
single woman; I supposed that this was only the case at the funerals of
gentlemen, but on inquiry I found that the same rule is observed at the
burial of women. This consideration for the weaker sex is carried so
far, that on the day of the funeral no woman may be seen in the house of
mourning. The mourners assemble in the house of the deceased, and
partake of cold refreshments. At the conclusion of the ceremony they are
again regaled. What particularly pleased me in Copenhagen was, that I
never on any occasion saw beggars, or even such miserably clad people as
are found only too frequently in our great cities. Here there are no
doubt poor people, as there are such every where else in the world, but
one does not see them beg. I cannot help mentioning an arrangement which
certainly deserves to be universally carried out;--I mean, the setting
apart of many large houses, partly belonging to the royal family, partly
to rich private people or to companies, for the reception of poor people,
who are here lodged at a much cheaper rate than is possible in ordinary
dwellings.
The costumes of the peasants did not particularly please me. The women
wear dresses of green or black woollen stuff, reaching to the ankle, and
trimmed at the skirt with broad coloured woollen borders. The seams of
the spenser, and the arm-holes, are also trimmed with smaller coloured
borders. On their heads they wear a handkerchief, and over this a kind
of shade, like a bonnet. On Sundays I saw many of them in small, pretty
caps, worked with silk, with a border of lace of more than a hand's
breadth, plaited very stiffly; at the back they have large bows of fine
riband, the ends of which reach half down to their feet. I found nothing
very remarkable in the dress of the peasants. As far as strength and
beauty were concerned, I thought these peasants were neither more nor
less gifted than those of Austria. As regards the beauty of the fair
sex, I should certainly give the preference to the Austrians. Fair hair
and blue eyes predominate.
I saw but few soldiers; their uniforms, particularly those worn by the
king's life-guards, are very handsome.
I especially noticed the drummers; they were all little lads of ten or
twelve years old. One could almost have exclaimed, "Drum, whither art
thou carrying that boy?" To march, and to join in fatiguing manoeuvres,
carrying such a drum, and beating it bravely at the same time, is rather
cruel work for such young lads. Many a ruined constitution may be
ascribed to this custom.
During my stay in Copenhagen I spent many very delightful hours with
Professor Mariboe and his amiable family, and with the kind clergyman of
the embassy, Herr Zimmermann. They received me with true politeness and
hospitality, and drew me into their circle, where I soon felt myself
quite at ease. I shall never forget their friendship, and shall make use
of every opportunity to shew them my appreciation of it. Herr Edouard
Gottschalk and Herr Knudson have also my best thanks. I applied to the
first of these gentlemen to procure me a passage to Iceland, and he was
kind enough to use his interest with Herr Knudson on my behalf.
Herr Knudson is one of the first general dealers in Copenhagen, and
carries on a larger and more extended commerce with Iceland than any
other house trading thither. He is already beginning to retire, as the
continual journeys are becoming irksome to him; but he still owns a
number of great and small vessels, which are partly employed in the
fisheries, and partly in bringing all kinds of articles of consumption
and luxury to the different harbours of Iceland.
He himself goes in one of his ships every year, and stays a few months in
Iceland to settle his affairs there. On the recommendation of Herr
Gottschalk, Herr Knudson was kind enough to give me a passage in the ship
in which he made the journey himself; a favour which I knew how to value.
It is certainly no small kindness to take a lady passenger on such a
journey. Herr Knudson knew neither my fortitude nor my perseverance; he
did not know whether I should be able to endure the hardships of a
journey to the north, whether I would bear sea-sickness philosophically,
or even if I had courage enough, in case of storms or bad weather, to
abstain from annoying the captain by my fears or complaints at a time
when he would only have too much to harass him. The kind man allowed no
such considerations to influence him. He believed me when I promised to
behave courageously come what might, and took me with him. Indeed his
kindness went so far that it is to him I owe every comfort I enjoyed in
Iceland, and every assistance in furthering the attainment of my
journey's object. I could certainly not have commenced a voyage under
better auspices.
All ships visiting Iceland leave Copenhagen at the end of April, or at
the latest in the middle of May. After this time only one ship is
despatched, to carry the mails of the Danish government. This vessel
leaves Copenhagen in October, remains in Iceland during the winter
months, and returns in March. The gain or loss of this expedition is
distributed in shares among the merchants of Copenhagen.
Besides this, a French frigate comes to Iceland every spring, and cruises
among the different harbours until the middle of August. She
superintends the fishing vessels, which, attracted by the large profits
of the fisheries, visit these seas in great numbers during the summer.
{17}
Opportunities of returning from Iceland occur during the summer until the
end of September, by means of the merchant-ships, which carry freights
from the island to Denmark, England, and Spain.
At length, on Sunday the 4th of May, a favourable wind sprung up. Herr
Knudson sent me word to be ready to embark at noon on board the fine brig
_John_.
I immediately proceeded on board. The anchor was weighed, and the sails,
unfolding themselves like giant wings, wafted us gently out of the
harbour of Copenhagen. No parting from children, relations, or
old-cherished friends embittered this hour. With a glad heart I bade
adieu to the city, in the joyful hope soon to see the fulfilment of my
long-expected journey.
The bright sky smiled above us, and a most favourable wind filled our
sails. I sat on deck and revelled in the contemplation of scenes so new
to me. Behind us lay spread the majestic town; before us the Sound, an
immense natural basin, which I could almost compare to a great Swiss
lake; on the right and left were the coasts of Sweden and Denmark, which
here approach each other so closely that they seem to oppose a barrier to
the further progress of the adventurous voyager.
Soon we passed the little Swedish town of Carlscrona, and the desolate
island Hveen, on which Tycho de Brahe passed the greater portion of his
life, occupied with stellar observations and calculations. Now came a
somewhat dangerous part, and one which called into action all the careful
seamanship of the captain to bring us safely through the confined sea and
the strong current,--the entrance of the Sound into the Cattegat.
The two coasts here approach to within a mile of each other. On the
Swedish side lies the pretty little town of Helsingborg, on the Danish
side that of Helsingor, and at the extremity of a projecting neck of land
the fortress Kronburg, which demands a toll of every passing ship, and
shews a large row of threatening cannon in case of non-compliance. Our
toll had already been paid before leaving Copenhagen; we had been
accurately signalled, and sailed fearlessly by. {18}
The entrance once passed, we entered the Cattegat, which already looked
more like the great ocean: the coasts retired on each side, and most of
the shifts and barques, which till now had hovered around us on all
sides, bade us "farewell." Some bent their course towards the east,
others towards the west; and we alone, on the broad desert ocean, set
sail for the icy north. Twilight did not set in until 9 o'clock at
night; and on the coasts the flaming beacons flashed up, to warn the
benighted mariner of the proximity of dangerous rocks.
I now offered up my thanksgiving to Heaven for the protection hitherto
vouchsafed me, with a humble prayer for its continuance. Then I
descended to the cabin, where I found a convenient bunk (a kind of crib
fixed to the side of the ship); I laid myself down, and was soon in a
deep and refreshing sleep.
I awoke full of health and spirits, which, however, I enjoyed but for a
short time. During the night we had left behind us the "Cattegat" and
the "Skagerrack," and were driving through the stormy German Ocean. A
high wind, which increased almost to a gale, tumbled our poor ship about
in such a manner, that none but a good dancer could hope to maintain an
upright position. I had unfortunately been from my youth no votary of
Terpsichore, and what was I to do? The naiads of this stormy region
seized me, and bandied me to and fro, until they threw me into the arms
of what was, according to my experience, if not exactly after Schiller's
interpretation, "the horrible of horrors,"--sea-sickness. At first I
took little heed of this, thinking that sea-sickness would soon be
overcome by a traveller like myself, who should be inured to every thing.
But in vain did I bear up; I became worse and worse, till I was at length
obliged to remain in my berth with but one consoling thought, namely,
that we were to-day on the open sea, where there was nothing worthy of
notice. But the following day the Norwegian coast was in sight, and at
all hazards I must see it; so I crawled on deck more dead than alive,
looked at a row of mountains of moderate elevation, their tops at this
early season still sparkling with their snowy covering, and then hurried
back, benumbed by the piercing icy wind, to my good warm feather-bed.
Those who have never experienced it can have no conception of the biting,
penetrating coldness of a gale of wind in the northern seas. The sun
shone high in the heavens; the thermometer (I always calculate according
to Reaumur) stood 3 degrees above zero; I was dressed much more warmly
than I should have thought necessary when, in my fatherland, the
thermometer was 8 or 10 degrees _below_ zero, and yet I felt chilled to
the heart, and could have fancied that I had no clothes on at all.
On the fourth night we sailed safely past the Shetland Islands; and on
the evening of the fifth day we passed so near the majestic rocky group
of the Feroe Islands, that we were at one time apprehensive of being cast
upon the rocks by the unceasing gale. {19}
Already on the seventh day we descried the coast of Iceland. Our passage
had been unprecedentedly quick; the sailors declared that a favourable
gale was to be preferred even to steam, and that on our present voyage we
should certainly have left every steamer in our wake. But I, wretched
being that I was, would gladly have dispensed with the services both of
gale and steam for the sake of a few hours' rest. My illness increased
so much, that on the seventh day I thought I must succumb. My limbs were
bathed in a cold perspiration; I was as weak as an infant, and my mouth
felt parched and dry. I saw that I must now either make a great effort
or give up entirely; so I roused myself, and with the assistance of the
cabin-boy gained a seat, and promised to take any and every remedy which
should be recommended. They gave me hot-water gruel with wine and sugar;
but it was not enough to be obliged to force this down, I was further
compelled to swallow small pieces of raw bacon highly peppered, and even
a mouthful of rum. I need not say what strong determination was required
to make me submit to such a regimen. I had, however, but one choice,
either to conquer my repugnance or give myself up a victim to
sea-sickness; so with all patience and resignation I received the
proffered gifts, and found, after a trial of many hours, that I could
manage to retain a small dose. This physicking was continued for two
long, long days, and then I began slowly to recover.
I have here circumstantially described both my illness and its cure,
because so many people are unfortunately victims to the complaint, and
when under its influence cannot summon resolution to take sustenance. I
should advise all my friends not to hold out so long as I did, but to
take food at once, and continue to do so until the system will receive
it.
As I was now convalescent, I tried to recruit my wearied mind by a
diligent study of the mode of life and customs of the mariners of the
northern seas.
Our ship's company consisted of Herr Knudson, Herr Bruge (a merchant whom
we were to land at the Westmann Islands), the captain, the mate, and six
or seven sailors. Our mode of life in the cabin was as follows: in the
morning, at seven o'clock, we took coffee, but whence this coffee came,
heaven knows! I drank it for eleven days, and could never discover any
thing which might serve as a clue in my attempt to discover the country
of its growth. At ten o'clock we had a meal consisting of bread and
butter and cheese, with cold beef or pork, all excellent dishes for those
in health; the second course of this morning meal was "tea-water." In
Scandinavia, by the way, they never say, "I drink _tea_," the word
"water" is always added: "I drink _tea-water_." Our "tea-water" was, if
possible, worse than its predecessor, the incomparable coffee. Thus I
was beaten at all points; the eatables were too strong for me, the
drinkables too--too--I can find no appropriate epithet--probably too
artificial. I consoled myself with the prospect of dinner; but, alas,
too soon this sweet vision faded into thin air! On the sixth day I made
my first appearance at the covered table, and could not help at once
remarking the cloth which had been spread over it. At the commencement
of our journey it might perhaps have been white; now it was most
certainly no longer of that snowy hue. The continual pitching and
rolling of the ship had caused each dish to set its peculiar stamp upon
the cloth. A sort of wooden network was now laid upon it, in the
interstices of which the plates and glasses were set, and thus secured
from falling. But before placing it on the table, our worthy cabin-boy
took each plate and glass separately, and polished it on a towel which
hung near, and in colour certainly rather resembling the dingy floor of
the cabin than the bight-hued rainbow. This could still have been
endured, but the article in question really did duty _as a towel_ in the
morning, before extending its salutary influence over plates and glasses
for the remainder of the day.
On making discoveries such as these, I would merely turn away my eyes,
and try to think that perhaps _my glass_ and _my plate_ would be more
delicately manipulated, or probably escape altogether; and then I would
turn my whole attention to the expected dishes.
First came soup; but instead of gravy-soup, it was water-soup, with rice
and dried plums. This, when mingled with red wine and sugar, formed a
most exquisite dish for Danish appetites, but it certainly did not suit
mine. The second and concluding course consisted of a large piece of
beef, with which I had no fault to find, except that it was too heavy for
one in my weak state of health. At supper we had the same dishes as at
dinner, and each meal was followed by "tea-water." At first I could not
fancy this bill of fare at all; but within a few days after my
convalesence, I had accustomed myself to it, and could bear the sea-diet
very well. {20}
As the rich owner of the vessel was on board, there was no lack of the
best wines, and few evenings passed on which a bowl of punch was not
emptied. There was, however, a reason found why every bottle of wine or
bowl of punch should be drunk: for instance, at our embarkation, to drink
the health of the friends we were leaving, and to hope for a quick and
prosperous voyage; then, when the wind was favourable, its health was
drunk, with the request that it would remain so; when it was contrary,
with the request that it would change; when we saw land, we saluted it
with a glass of wine, or perhaps with several, but I was too ill to
count; when we lost sight of it, we drank a farewell glass to its health:
so that every day brought with it three or four distinct and separate
occasions for drinking wine. {21}
The sailors drank tea-water without sugar every morning and evening, with
the addition of a glass of brandy; for dinner they had pease, beans,
barley, or potatoes, with salted cod, bacon, "or junk;" good sea-biscuit
they could get whenever they chose.
The diet is not the worst part of these poor people's hardships. Their
life may be called a continual fight against the elements; for it is
precisely during the most dreadful storms, with rain and piercing cold,
that they have to be continually upon deck. I could not sufficiently
admire the coolness, or rather the cheerfulness and alacrity with which
they fulfilled their onerous duties. And what reward have they? Scanty
pay, for food the diet I have just described, and for their
sleeping-place the smallest and most inconvenient part of the ship, a
dark place frequently infested with vermin, and smelling offensively from
being likewise used as a receptacle for oil-colours, varnish, tar,
salt-fish, &c. &c.
To be cheerful in the midst of all this requires a very quiet and
contented mind. That the Danish sailors are contented, I had many
opportunities of observing during the voyage of which I am speaking, and
on several other occasions.
But after all this long description, it is high time that I should return
to the journey itself.
The favourable gale which had thus wafted us to the coast of Iceland
within seven days, now unfortunately changed its direction, and drove us
back. We drifted about in the storm-tost ocean, and many a Spanish wave
{22} broke completely over our ship. Twice we attempted to approach the
Westmann Islands {23} (a group belonging to Iceland) to watch an
opportunity of casting anchor, and setting ashore our fellow-traveller
Herr Bruge; but it was in vain, we were driven back each time. At
length, at the close of the eleventh day, we reached Havenfiord, a very
good harbour, distant nine miles from Reikjavik, the capital of Iceland.
In spite of the very inopportune change in the direction of the wind, we
had had an unprecedentedly quick passage. The distance from Copenhagen
to Iceland, in a straight line, is reckoned at 1200 geographical miles;
for a sailing vessel, which must tack now and then, and must go as much
with the wind as possible, 1500 to 1600 miles. Had the strong wind,
which was at first so favourable, instead of changing on the seventh day,
held on for thirty or forty hours longer, we should have landed in
Iceland on the eighth or ninth day--even the steamer could not have
accomplished the passage so quickly.
The shores of Iceland appeared to me quite different from what I had
supposed them to be from the descriptions I had read. I had fancied them
naked, without tree or shrub, dreary and desert; but now I saw green
hills, shrubs, and even what appeared to be groups of stunted trees. As
we came nearer, however, I was enabled to distinguish objects more
clearly, and the green hills became human dwellings with small doors and
windows, while the supposed groups of trees proved in reality to be heaps
of lava, some ten or twelve feet high, thickly covered with moss and
grass. Every thing was new and striking to me; I waited in great
impatience till we could land.
At length the anchor descended; but it was not till next morning that the
hour of disembarkation and deliverance came.
But one more night, and then, every difficulty overcome, I should tread
the shores of Iceland, the longed-for, and bask as it were in the wonders
of this island, so poor in the creations of art, so rich in the phenomena
of Nature.
* * * * *
Before I land in Iceland, I must trouble the reader with a few
preliminary observations regarding this island. They are drawn from
Mackenzie's _Description of Iceland_, a book the sterling value of which
is appreciated every where. {24}
The discovery of Iceland, about the year of our Lord 860, is attributed
to the spirit of enterprise of some Swedish and Norwegian pirates, who
were drifted thither on a voyage to the Feroe Isles. It was not till the
year 874 that the island was peopled by a number of voluntary emigrants,
who, feeling unhappy under the dominion of Harold Harfraga (fine hair),
arrived at the island under the direction of Ingold. {25} As the
newcomers are said to have found no traces of dwellings, they are
presumed to be the first who took possession of the island.
At this time Iceland was still so completely covered with underwood, that
at some points it was necessary to cut a passage. Bringing with them
their language, religion, customs, and historical monuments, the
Norwegians introduced a kind of feudal system, which, about the year 928,
gave place to a somewhat aristocratic government, retaining, however, the
name of a republic. The island was divided into four provinces, over
each of which was placed an hereditary governor or judge.
The General Assembly of Iceland (called Allthing) was held annually on
the shores of the Lake Thingvalla. The people possessed an excellent
code of laws, in which provision had been made for every case which could
occur.
This state of things lasted for more than 300 years, a period which may
be called the golden age of Iceland. Education, literature, and even
refined poetry flourished among the inhabitants, who took part in
commerce and in the sea-voyages which the Norwegians undertook for
purposes of discovery.
The "Sagas," or histories of this country, contain many tales of personal
bravery. Its bards and historians visited other climes, became the
favourites of monarchs, and returned to their island covered with honour
and loaded with presents. The _Edda_, by Samund, is one of the most
valued poems of the ancient days of Iceland. The second portion of the
_Edda_, called _Skalda_, dates from a later period, and is ascribed by
many to the celebrated Snorri Sturluson. Isleif, first Bishop of
Skalholt, was the earliest Icelandic historian; after him came the noted
Snorri Sturluson, born in 1178, who became the richest and mightiest man
in Iceland.
Snorri Sturluson was frequently followed to the General Assembly of
Iceland by a splendid retinue of 800 armed men. He was a great historian
and poet, and possessed an accurate knowledge of the Greek and Latin
tongues, besides being a powerful orator. He was also the author of the
_Heims-kringla_.
The first school was founded at Skalholt, about the middle of the
eleventh century, under Isleif, first Bishop of Iceland; four other
schools and several convents soon followed. Poetry and music seem to
have formed a staple branch of education.
The climate of Iceland appears to have been less inclement than is now
the case; corn is said to have grown, and trees and shrubs were larger
and thicker than we find them at present. The population of Iceland was
also much more numerous than it is now, although there were neither towns
nor villages. The people lived scattered throughout the island; and the
General Assembly was held at Thingvalla, in the open air.
Fishing constituted the chief employment of the Icelanders. Their
clothing was woven from the wool of their sheep. Commerce with
neighbouring countries opened to them another field of occupation.
The doctrines of Christianity were first introduced into Iceland, in the
year 981, by Friederich, a Saxon bishop. Many churches were built, and
tithes established for the maintenance of the clergy. Isleif, first
Bishop of Skalholt, was ordained in the year 1057. After the
introduction of Christianity, all the Icelanders enjoyed an
unostentatious but undisturbed practice of their religion.
Greenland and the most northern part of America are said to have been
discovered by Icelanders.
In the middle of the thirteenth century Iceland came into the power of
the Norwegian kings. In the year 1380 Norway was united to the crown of
Denmark; and Iceland incorporated, without resistance, in the Danish
monarchy. Since the cession of the island to Norway, and then to
Denmark, peace and security took the place of the internal commotions
with which, before this time, Iceland had been frequently disturbed; but
this state of quiet brought forth indolence and apathy. The voyages of
discovery were interfered with by the new government, and the commerce
gradually passed into the hands of other nations. The climate appears
also to have changed; and the lessened industry and want of perseverance
in the inhabitants have brought agriculture completely into decline.
In the year 1402 the plague broke out upon the island, and carried off
two-thirds of the population.
The first printing-press was established at Hoolum, about the year 1530,
under the superintendence of the Bishop, John Areson.
The reformation in the Icelandic Church was not brought about without
disturbance. It was legally established in the year 1551.
During the fifteenth century the Icelanders suffered more from the
piratical incursions of foreigners. As late as the year 1616 the French
and English nations took part in these enormities. The most melancholy
occurrence of this kind took place in 1627, in which year a great number
of Algerine pirates made a descent upon the Icelandic coast, murdered
about fifty of the inhabitants, and carried off nearly 400 others into
captivity. {26}
The eighteenth century commenced with a dreadful mortality from the
smallpox; of which disease more than 16,000 of the inhabitants died. In
1757 a famine swept away about 10,000 souls.
The year 1783 was distinguished by most dreadful volcanic outbreaks in
the interior of the island. Tremendous streams of lava carried all
before them; great rivers were checked in their course, and formed lakes.
For more than a year a thick cloud of smoke and volcanic ashes covered
the whole of Iceland, and nearly darkened the sunlight. Horned cattle,
sheep, and horses were destroyed; famine came, with its accompanying
illnesses; and once more appeared the malignant small-pox. In a few
years more than 11,000 persons had died; more than one-fourth of the
whole present population of the island.
Iceland lies in the Atlantic ocean; its greatest breadth is 240
geographical miles, and its extreme length from north to south 140 miles.
The number of inhabitants is estimated at 48,000, and the superficial
extent of the island at 29,800 square miles.