Captain Kortling, of the bark, had been ill in his cabin for

[Illustration: (cover)]

[Illustration: ISAAC M. SMALL

WHO RESPECTFULLY DEDICATES THIS LITTLE VOLUME

OF “SHIPWRECKS”

TO CAPE COD’S SUMMER VISITORS

]

SHIPWRECKS ON CAPE COD

THE STORY OF A FEW OF THE

MANY HUNDRED SHIPWRECKS WHICH HAVE

OCCURRED ON CAPE COD

BY ISAAC M. SMALL

FOR SIXTY YEARS MARINE REPORTING AGENT

FOR BOSTON CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

HIGHLANDS OF NORTH TRURO, MASSACHUSETTS

HIGHLAND LIGHT

MAY 1st, 1928

Reprinted 1967 By

THE CHATHAM PRESS INC.

CHATHAM, MASS.

[Illustration: (logo)]

CONTENTS

PAGE

Author’s Preface 5

Loss of the Josephus 8

The Clara Bell 11

The Loss of the Ship Peruvian 14

The Bark Francis 18

Loss of the Giovanni 21

The Jason 24

Loss of the Steamship Portland 27

The Gift of the Sea 31

A Few of the Many Deep Sea Mysteries 34

The Monte Taber 35

Loss of the Oakland 37

Loss of the Castagnia 39

Thomas W. Lawson--the Largest Schooner 41

Loss of the Ship Asia 42

Barges Wadena and Fitzpatrick 43

Story of the Sloop Trumbull 46

Wreck of the Somerset--British Man of War 48

The Mystery of the Mary Celeste 50

The Self-Steered Craft 52

Tragedy of the Herbert Fuller 53

The Job Jackson Wreck 56

Loss of the Number 238 57

The Palmer Fleet 59

A Gale, and What it Did 61

Loss of the Montclair on Orleans Beach 63

Loss of the Reinhart at Race Point 65

Was it Murder? 67

Stranding of the Barges 69

The John Tracy Mystery 72

Wreck of the Roger Dicky 73

The Gettysburg Tow 75

Loss of the Elsia G. Silva 77

A Terrible Disaster 78

Terrible Submarine Disaster 80

Stranding of the Robert E. Lee 85

PREFACE

I hardly know whether to call this a preface or part of the story, it

seems rather too long for the former and too short for a chapter of the

latter, but I may as well follow the general rule and call it a preface.

Friends have often said to me, “Why don’t you write some stories

concerning shipwrecks which have occurred on Cape Cod?”

Perhaps one of the strongest reasons why I have not done so is

because, to describe all of the sad disasters which have come under my

observation during my more than half a century of service as Marine

Reporting Agent, at Highland Light, Cape Cod, would make a book too

bulky to be interesting, and a second reason has been the difficulty of

selecting such instances as would be of the greatest interest to the

general reader.

But out of the hundreds of shipwrecks which have become a part of the

folk lore and history of this storm beaten coast I have finally decided

to tell something of the circumstances connected with the loss of life

and property in a few of the more prominent cases.

The descriptions herein written are only just “unvarnished tales,”

couched in such language that even the children may understand, and in

order that there may be a clear understanding of how I came to be in

close touch with the events of which I write, it is perhaps necessary

to state briefly a few facts concerning my life work here.

So far back as 1853, the merchants of Boston, desiring to obtain rapid

and frequent reports concerning the movements of their ships along the

coast of Cape Cod, were instrumental in causing the construction of a

telegraph line from Boston to the end of Cape Cod, and a station was

established on the bluffs of the Cape at Highland Light, this station

was equipped with signal flags, books and a powerful telescope, and

an operator placed in charge, whose duty it was to watch the sea from

daybreak until sunset, and so far as possible obtain the names of or

a description of every passing ship. This information was immediately

transmitted over the wires to the rooms of the Chamber of Commerce,

where it was at once spread upon their books for the information of

their subscribers.

When the boys in blue were marching away to southern battlefields at

the beginning of the Civil War, in 1861, I began the work of “Marine

Reporting Agent,” and now on the threshold of 1928, I am still watching

the ships.

A fair sized volume might be written concerning the changes which have

taken place in fifty years, as to class of vessels and methods of

transportation, but that is not what I started to write about.

My duties begin as soon as it is light enough to distinguish the rig

of a vessel two miles distant from the land, and my day’s work is

finished when the sun sinks below the western horizon. Every half hour

through every day of the year we stand ready to answer the call at the

Boston office, and report to them by telegraph every item of marine

intelligence which has come under our observation during the previous

half hour. With our telescope we can, in clear weather, make out the

names of vessels when four miles away. When a shipwreck occurs, either

at night or during the day, we are expected to forward promptly to the

city office every detail of the disaster. If the few stories herein

told serve to interest our friends who tarry with us for a while in the

summer, then the object of the writer will have been attained.

[Illustration: HIGHLAND LIGHT, NORTH TRURO

This is known as Cape Cod Light, more often spoken of as Highland

Light. It stands on a bluff 140 feet above sea level. The brick tower

is 65 feet high. It was built by the United States Government in 1777

and rebuilt in 1851. It is a revolving flash light and its rays can be

seen 45 miles at sea.]

LOSS OF THE JOSEPHUS

The first shipwreck of which I have any personal recollection was that

of the British ship “Josephus,” which occurred about the first of

April, 1849. The terrible circumstances attending the destruction of

this ship were so vividly impressed upon my childish mind, (I was four

years of age at the time) that they are as plain in memory as though

they had occurred but yesterday.

This vessel stranded during a dense fog, on the outer bar, directly

opposite the location of the present Highland Life Saving Station,

about one mile north of the Highland Lighthouse. She was a full rigged

ship from some port in England, bound to Boston, and carried a cargo

of iron bars. Losing her bearings during a protracted fog and severe

easterly gale her keel found the sand bar half a mile from shore,

immediately the huge waves swept her decks, and the ship was doomed to

destruction.

In those days no life savers patrolled the beach to lend a rescuing

hand and the first intimation of the disaster was when, during a

temporary rift in the fog the light keeper, from the cliffs, discovered

the stranded ship. The alarm quickly spread to all the neighboring farm

houses and to the village, from all directions men came hurrying to

the beach, hoping in some way to be able to aid the suffering sailors

on the wreck, which by this time was fast being smashed to pieces by

the thunderous waves which pounded upon her partly submerged hull. Her

masts had already been torn from her decks and with tangled rigging

and strips of sail thrashed her sides in a constant fury. Many of her

crew had been crushed to death and their bodies swept into the boiling

surf. When the spars went down others could be seen clinging to such

portions of the wreck as yet remained above the angry waters, and their

screams for help could be heard above the wild roar of the awful surf,

by the watchers on the shore, utterly powerless to render the least

assistance. At this moment down the cliffs came running two young men,

just home from a fishing voyage. They had not even stopped to visit

their homes and families, but hearing of the wreck had hurried to the

beach. Lying on the sands of the shore was a fisherman’s dory, a small

boat, about twelve feet in length, such as small fishing vessels use

and carry on their decks.

These men were Daniel Cassidy and Jonathan Collins. Immediately they

seized this boat and ran it quickly over the sands to the edge of the

surf. The watchers on the beach stood aghast, and when they realized

that these men intended to launch this frail skiff into that raging

sea strong cries of protest arose from every one. “Why, men,” they

said, “you are crazy to do this, you cannot possibly reach that ship,

and your lives will pay the forfeit of your foolhardy attempt.” But in

the face of the earnest pleadings of their friends and neighbors they

pushed their boat into the gale-driven surf and headed her towards

the wreck. Their last words were, “We cannot stand it longer to see

those poor fellows being swept into the sea, and we are going to try

to reach them.” Standing with my mother and holding by her hand on the

cliffs overlooking the scene I saw the little boat, with the two men

pulling bravely at the oars. They had hardly gone fifty yards from

the shore when a great white cataract of foam and rushing water was

hurled towards them. The next instant it buried men and boat under

its sweeping torrent as it swept onward towards the beach with the

overturned dory riding its crest; two human heads rose for a moment

through the seething sea, only to be covered by the next on-rushing

wave, and they were seen no more. Darkness soon settled over the

terrible scene, the cries of the despairing sailors grew fainter and

ceased, while the mad waves rushed unceasingly towards the shore. The

watchers, believing that every sailor had perished, turned away and

sought their homes with sad hearts. The light keeper, Mr. Hamilton,

coming down from the lighthouse tower at midnight, where he had been

to attend to the lamps, decided to visit the beach again, thinking

possibly that some of the bodies of the lost sailors might drift to

shore. What was his surprise to find upon a piece of the cabin of the

ship, which had washed ashore, a helpless sailor moaning piteously,

still alive but suffering terribly from the hardships he had endured;

he had been scratched and torn by the broken timbers through which he

had been washed and driven.

After great exertion and a long struggle the lightkeeper succeeded in

getting the unfortunate sailor up the cliff and to the lighthouse,

where the man was put to bed and a physician sent for. He finally

recovered, but he was the only man of that ship’s company of 24 souls

who escaped with life, these and the two men who attempted a rescue

made a total death list in this disaster of 25.

It is a far cry from 1849 to 1872, and the broken timbers of many a

lost ship, and the whitened bones of hundreds of dead sailors lie

buried in the drifting sands of this storm beaten coast, between

those dates, but as we cannot here present the details of more than a

very few of them, we only select those having especial and somewhat

different features and so pathetic as to stand out more prominently

than those of a lesser degree of horror, though it would be hard to

describe a shipwreck on this coast devoid of suffering, death and

destruction.

THE CLARA BELL

On the afternoon of March 6th, 1872, a moderate wind was blowing from

the land across the sea, the sun shone full and clear, a great fleet

of sailing vessels, urged forward by the favoring breeze, made rapid

progress over the smooth sea towards their destination. In the late

afternoon, as the sun approached the western horizon, it settled behind

a dark and ominous cloud that was rising towards the zenith and casting

a dark shadow over all the sea.

[Illustration: WRECK OF THE CLARA BELL]

The two masted schooner Clara Bell, Captain Amesbury, with a cargo of

coal for Boston, had that morning sailed out of the harbor of Vineyard

Haven and passed across the shoals of Vineyard Sound, moved rapidly up

the coast, and by ten o’clock that night was nearly opposite Highland

Light. The wind, which had been only fairly strong up to this time,

rapidly increased in velocity, and snow began falling thick and fast.

The wind rapidly increased to a gale, when the vessel had reached a

point two miles north of Highland Light the wind suddenly changed to

north and in a short time became a howling gale; the fast falling

snow hid all the lights and the surrounding sea from view, and the

temperature dropped to zero. In trying to make an off shore tack the

vessel was struck by a huge wave, forced shoreward and with an awful

plunge the schooner struck a bar a fourth of a mile from shore. It

was now nearly midnight; the sea, though running fierce and wild,

had not at this time reached monstrous size, and Captain Amesbury,

thinking that his only hope for life depended upon getting away from

the schooner, decided to make an attempt to launch the ship’s boat.

After great exertion upon the part of himself and crew they succeeded

in getting the boat over the vessel’s side, and the crew of six men and

himself jumped in and cast off the line that held them to the vessel,

but not two strokes of the oars had been taken when the cockleshell,

borne like a chip on the top of an onrushing wave, was thrown bottom

up and her crew were struggling in the icy waters. Captain Amesbury

and one of his men were carried on a towering wave rapidly towards the

shore, but before they could gain a foothold the remorseless undertow

had drawn them back into the swirling waters. With the next oncoming

wave the sailor was thrown shoreward again and succeeded in grasping a

piece of wreckage and by its aid managed to crawl away from the jaws of

death; not so fortunate the captain, who with the other members of his

crew were swept away in the freezing sea and seen no more. The sailor,

finding himself safe beyond the reach of the mad sea on the sand-swept

and desolate shore, started to find shelter. In his struggles to reach

the shore one of his boots had been torn off and lost, he was coatless,

without covering on his head, thoroughly drenched, his clothes freezing

to his benumbed body and limbs. In the blinding snow storm which had

now set in in dead earnest with a cold so intense that it nearly took

his breath away, this poor fellow started out to find if possible some

human habitation; he could make no progress against the freezing gale

so was obliged to turn towards the south and follow the direction of

the wind. Over frozen fields, through brush and brambles that tore

his bare foot at every step, over the ever increasing snow drifts,

through bogs and meadows and hills and hollows, he struggled until the

coming of daylight; then a farmer going out to his stable in the early

morning found this unfortunate, frozen and exhausted sailor standing

in the highway a short distance from the Highland House, so dazed by

his terrible night of torture that he could not speak or move. He

was carried into the farm house and the writer was one of those who

helped to revive him. We were finally made to understand that he

had come from a shipwreck on the coast and that all of his shipmates

were drowned. Leaving him to the care of the women of the household I

hurried with others to the beach, believing it possible that even yet

there might be some other unfortunate still alive on the wreck.

After a somewhat exhausting trip over the drifted snow and the frozen

beach, we reached the stranded vessel, which had in the meantime been

driven by the huge seas completely over the sand bar upon which she

struck and the constant pounding of the waves had driven her high and

dry upon the main beach. We walked on board dry footed and passed down

the cabin stairs. There in the cabin stove burned a nice cheerful fire

and all was dry and warm. The haste of Captain Amesbury and his crew to

leave the strong vessel for a little frail skiff had cost them their

lives, and this has been so often the case, it would seem that sailors

so often exposed to the dangers of the sea would realize when brought

suddenly into positions of extreme danger by the stranding of their

ship, that their only chance for life lay in staying by their vessel,

rather than taking the chances afforded by a small boat in the wild

sea; if their large and strong vessel cannot stand the shock certainly

the little boat cannot. Many men have gone down to their death in the

sea because of too great a faith in the ship’s boat.

The sailor who escaped with his life from this wreck finally recovered

after the amputation of three toes and a finger.

People have sometimes said, “Are there no romances connected

with shipwrecks?” Fiction writers have often distorted the facts

sufficiently to be able to weave about the incidents of a shipwreck

some romantic story, but most of the disasters which overtake those who

go down to the sea in ships to do work on the great waters, partake

so much of the elements of tragedy that there is little room for the

entrance of romance into the situation. In almost every instance

where ships are overwhelmed by the storms and the seas the cold hard

facts are so distressing that every other feature, except the one of

suffering, is lost sight of and only the thought of drowning men takes

possession of the senses. The following story, though bearing the color

of romance, had a sad and heartbreaking ending.

THE LOSS OF THE SHIP PERUVIAN

Over the North Atlantic ocean and the coast of Cape Cod on the night of

the 26th of December, 1873, swept a gale and storm so fierce and wild

that even dwellers of the coast were surprised.

With almost hurricane force the wind-driven sea rushed in mountainous

waves towards the outlying sand bar and hurled themselves with a

terrific roar on the sands of the beach.

Many weeks before from the smooth waters of the harbor of Calcutta the

American ship Peruvian had passed out into the deep sea and with a blue

sky and favoring breeze had spread her white sails and headed for home

on her long voyage.

Beneath her decks was stored a valuable cargo of sugar and block tin

and Boston was her destination.

The ship was in command of Captain Charles H. Vannah. And she carried a

crew of 24 men. With such a bright departure they were anticipating a

quick and safe voyage. All had gone well with ship and crew until this

fateful December morning. All day long the snow had fallen thick and

fast, driven over the deck of the ship and through her rigging by the

ever increasing gale. Riotous waves lifted the big ship to their crests

only to plunge her the next moment into the depths of the deep hollows

as they tore madly away in the approaching darkness.

Captain Vannah had been unable for 24 hours to obtain an observation,

but he knew that his ship was approaching the coast of Cape Cod. Hoping

every moment that some slight abatement in the storm might give him a

chance to pick up some outlying beacon or the glimmer of some friendly

lighthouse he kept the ship’s head to the north with all the sail upon

the spars that they could stand without breaking. Higher and stronger

ran the seas, wilder and more terrific blew the gale, often across

the ship’s decks swept the huge waves, while all about them the dark

skies lowered and the angry waters swirled when suddenly, just before

midnight with a terrible plunge and an awful crash the ship struck

the sand bars of the dreaded Peaked Hill Shoals, nearly a mile from

shore; then utter confusion reigned on the ship. Up to that time only

occasional seas had swept her decks; now the huge waves in torrents

constantly swept her and pounded unceasingly her breaking decks.

Boats, deck fittings and everything movable was swept away in the

darkness and the turbulent sea; her crew driven to the rigging found

there only a temporary place of escape; soon came a mountain-like wave,

overtopping all those which had preceded it and thundered over the

doomed ship, tearing away all of her masts and portions of her deck,

hurling the entire ship’s crew into this mass of thrashing wreckage and

churning sea, and their last sad cries were hushed in the mad seas that

covered them.

With the first glimmer of approaching daylight men hurried to the outer

beach, believing that some terrible disaster had occurred. They found

the shore for miles covered with portions of the cargo and many broken

timbers of the lost ship, but owing to the distance from shore to where

the ship went down only three bodies were ever recovered and those only

after many days of washing about in the surf.

Out there across yonder bar, where you see the waters curl and break

into a ripple, forming a white line against the blue of the sea beyond,

lies the sunken and sea-washed hull of the once stately ship; in that

sparless hull and the rotting and sand covered timbers you cannot

recognize the majestic vessel that only a few short years ago sat out

there in all her splendor and with her strong sides seemed to defy the

elements.

That blue water, so quiet now, and breaking with such gentle ripples on

the shore, does not give you the impression, that in a few hours with

a change of wind, it could be lashed into fury, and with towering foam

capped waves dash upon the beach with the roar of a Niagara.

The storm is o’er and all along the sandy reach,

The shining wavelets ripple on the lonely beach,

Beneath the storm-washed sands and waves of blue,

There rests unclaimed, the members of the lost ship’s crew.

Captain Vannah had been a seafaring man all his life. In a pretty

little town, nestling among the granite hills of New Hampshire, he had

known and loved a dear young girl; for several years they had planned

that when his sea voyages were ended he would come to claim his bride

and would sail the seas no more. He had secured a fair competency and

had promised her that this would be his last voyage. He wrote to her

when his ship sailed out of that far eastern port, advising her of the

probable date of his arrival at Boston. She had made all arrangements

to go down to the city and meet him when his ship should be reported as

approaching the harbor.

She daily scanned the ship news columns of the papers, and on this

December morning she knew his ship must be nearing port, but in her

sheltered home she did not realize what a terrible storm was sweeping

the coast.

Only those who have been suddenly overwhelmed with a paralyzing blow

can appreciate what, with ruined hopes, this young girl felt, when she

opened the daily paper only to read in great black, cruel headlines

these words, “Ship Peruvian goes down off Cape Cod, and all hands are

lost.”

[Illustration: HIGHLAND LIGHT, CLIFFS AND BEACH, NORTH TRURO]

BARK FRANCIS

The same storm that carried the Peruvian and her whole ship’s company

to destruction drove the North German Bark Francis to the same fate

only three miles farther down the coast, but though sad enough in some

of its features this disaster was not attended with the appalling loss

of life that accompanied the loss of the Peruvian.

These two vessels sailed from the same port in Calcutta only a few

days apart, and had almost been in sight of each other during the long

voyage.

The Peruvian was so unfortunate as to become involved in the shallows

of Peaked Hill Bars, while the Francis, in the deeper waters to the

south was driven by wind and sea over the outer line of bars and

finally grounded within two hundred yards of the beach; her hull was of

iron and she soon settled firmly into the sand.

Every avenue of approach to the beach was blocked with snow, huge

drifts covering every highway and hollow. There were no mortar guns and

no life saving crews then, and no boats of any kind on the outer beach

available. At the shore on the bay side of the cape was a whale boat,

a boat sharp at both ends and about eighteen feet in length; this boat

might afford possibly safe means of reaching the imperilled crew on the

ship, but to get it to the scene of the wreck was a problem. Finally,

through the united exertions of twenty strong men, the boat was drawn

to the edge of the pond in the village of North Truro, then dragged

over the frozen surface of the pond to the highway near the Post

Office, where a pair of horses was attached to wheels, the boat mounted

on them and the journey to the outer beach and possible rescue was

fairly begun; when snow drifts were not too deep horses and men hurried

the boat along; when great drifts were encountered shovels were brought

into use and a way broken for the horses; then on again, ever in the

face of the storm swept moors towards the ocean, across the gale swept

hills and snow covered valleys the party struggled, until finally, at

ten o’clock in the forenoon, almost exhausted, they reached a point on

the beach opposite the wreck.

A volunteer crew manned the boat, willing hands helped to push the boat

through the foam covered surf, the men bent to the oars and the trip to

the side of the bark was made in safety.

Captain Kortling, of the bark, had been ill in his cabin for many

days and it was with no little difficulty that he was finally lowered

helpless into the rocking and pitching boat, which the thrashing sea

threatened every moment to dash to pieces against the iron sides of the

ship. Brought to the beach and landed, Captain Kortling was taken in a

farm wagon and hurried to the Highland House. Weakened by disease and

worn out by the terrible exposure of the wreck and the storm, he lived

but four days after reaching shore, and his remains lie buried in the

Old Cemetery on the hill, near the west entrance. The other members of

the crew, twenty in number, were rescued without mishap.

In a few days tugs and lighters were brought to the scene of the wreck

and the work of attempting to save the cargo was begun. A large part

of her cargo was sugar in great straw mats; these in the process of

hoisting out of the hold of the vessel frequently became broken and

the sugar sifted out upon the deck; some twenty-five men were required

to assist in this work of hoisting out the cargo and placing it upon

the lighters. As it was not practicable for these men to go ashore at

noontime they were obliged to take their dinners with them to the ship;

generally a small pail or basket sufficed for carrying the noon meal.

When these men left their work at night the overseer in charge of the

work of unloading would tell the workmen that they might fill their

lunch baskets with the loose sugar which had sifted out of the broken

mats and take it home. In the beginning their pails as a rule held two

or three quarts, but when it became known that the dinner pails could

be filled each night on leaving the ship the size of these lunch pails

and baskets increased amazingly, from a receptacle with a three quart

capacity they soon rose to twenty-five and even fifty pounds capacity,

so that the boat in her last trip to the shore was in danger of being

swamped with the great weight of lunch baskets. This abuse of a

privilege resulted in the cutting off the supply, although many workmen

had already secured a year’s supply of sugar for their families when

the shut off edict was issued.

This vessel seemed to offer the wreckers a good proposition as an

investment and a company was formed with the purpose of making an

attempt to raise and float the vessel. They purchased her of the

Insurance Companies into whose hands the ship had fallen; then they

spent hundreds of dollars in trying to get her from the sand bar;

finally after many weeks of preparation everything seemed ready, a

powerful tug was engaged to stand by and be ready to pull the ship away

as soon as she floated, big steam pumps were installed on board and

all was expectancy; then after a full day’s steady pumping by the great

pumps on her deck, suddenly the big ship stirred in her bed and rose to

the surface with a bound; then a great shout went up from the assembled

crowd on the beach and from the interested investors on the bark’s deck

when they believed their venture was about to be crowned with success,

but this quickly turned to dismay when the ship, as suddenly as she had

come to the surface, sank back again beneath the sea, from which place

she never moved again, and the shifting sands soon covered her.

The rocking of the ship by the waves and the storms that beat over her

on the sand and coarse gravel of the bed of the sea had worn holes

through her iron sides where her masts were stepped into her keel, and

immediately the ship rose from the bottom a great torrent of water

poured in through these openings, flooded the entire ship again and

carried her back into the sandy bed where she had so long reposed. For

many years in the ever changing sands the jagged sides of her ever

diminishing hull would be exposed only to be buried by the next great

storm that swept her.

LOSS OF THE GIOVANNI

A northeast gale and furious snow storm was sweeping the coast of Cape

Cod and hiding the great sea in its smother all through the day of

March 4th, 1875. Late in the afternoon, during a momentary breaking

away of the storm filled clouds, a great vessel was discovered fast

upon the outer sand bar nearly three miles north of Highland Life

Saving Station. It proved to be the Italian bark Giovanni, Captain

Ferri, from Palermo for Boston, with a cargo of sumac, nuts and

brimstone; her sails were blown away, her rudder broken. She was in

a position to be pounded to pieces before another sunrise; her crew

was almost helpless from exposure to the cold storm. The crews of

Life Saving Stations 6 and 7 were promptly at the scene of the wreck,

but owing to the snow bound conditions of the roads and the almost

impassable state of the beach, added to the great distance from the

Life Saving Stations, it was a task almost beyond the power of human

endurance to get their boats and beach apparatus to the shore opposite

the scene of the disaster, but as soon as the position of the vessel

was clearly determined, and it was recognized what kind of gear was

necessary in order to aid the men in the ship, they hurried to their

stations, and after hours of almost superhuman exertions, dragging

their beach carts, mortar guns and apparatus through heavy snow drifts

that had to be broken out before they could proceed. Over sand hills

swept bare by the driving gale, through meadow bogs and brush covered

ridges, they finally reached the beach in the vicinity of the wreck.

No attempt was made to launch the life boat, as such an effort, in the

face of all the terrible conditions that prevailed, the awful sea and

the distance of the vessel from shore, would have been foolhardy in the

extreme, and would only have added to the death roll the lives of the

life-savers, without accomplishing the saving of a single life.

The mortar gun, however, was made ready with all possible dispatch,

though it was recognized from the first that no gun could carry a line

that distance in the face of such a terrific gale. But the gun was

charged, the charge exploded and out over the foam covered sea the shot

line sped, only to fall spent in the wild sea more than a hundred yards

short of the ship. The uselessness of further attempts along these

lines was apparent, but the life savers again made ready with another

line, hoping that the pounding sea would with the rising tide force

the bark over the sand bar and nearer the shore. But it now became

evident that the ship was so firmly impaled upon the treacherous shoal

that there was no hope of her being moved by sea or tide, and in fact

it was but a short time later that there came to the shore evidence

that the vessel was beginning to break up, as portions of her upper

works and even some portion of her cargo could be seen between shore

and wreck and was being driven shoreward by the savage seas that broke

in fury over the sand bars. Just then two men were seen to leap from

the deck house on the after part of the ship, into the roaring torrent

that raged about them; for a moment they were lost to sight in the suds

of the churned up sea, then as they appeared upon the surface they

were seen to seize upon pieces of wreckage that floated near them; to

these they clung desperately, at one moment buried from sight in the

salt spume, the next moment rising to the top of a foam crested wave

rushing onward and almost wrenching the plank to which they clung from

their grasp; when more than two-thirds of the distance from wreck to

shore had been covered the wreckage which had borne one of the sailors

appeared upon the top of an oncoming wave, but there was no human form

clinging to it; nature had made its last long struggle and the poor

fellow had released his grasp and dropped helpless into the wild sea

that covered him forever.

The other man still retained his hold upon the frail support that

bore him shoreward; now it was a question of only minutes, would his

strength stay by him, could he hold on a moment longer, should his

rapidly waning strength desert him now and his grasp relax he would

be swallowed up in the sea instantly and no power could save him. Men

rushed to the edge of the tide, even into the surf, grasping hands as a

living rope; on came man and wreckage, as the broken water smashed down

upon the sands strong hands reached out and seized the sailor before

the relentless undertow could draw him back into its cruel grip. He was

saved, but he was the only one of the whole ship’s company of fifteen

men.

Night shut in but we kindled a huge bonfire on the beach and patrolled

the shore up and down all night, hoping that some other unfortunate

might be brought in with the tide. Long before daybreak the shore for

miles was strewn with flotsam and jetsam from the wreck which was

being constantly rended by the sea; bags of sumac, bags of nuts and

even casks of wine mingled and washed together in the surf, but not

a human body, alive or dead, was cast up by the sea. Every watcher

on the beach believed that the ship had been entirely broken up, and

that every person on board had perished. Still we lingered awaiting

the coming of the sunlight; when it did come and objects were visible

for any distance, what was our surprise to see the after deck house of

the bark still in place, and a portion of her bow and the stump of her

broken foremast still standing; the huge waves were still smashing over

her furiously. If we had been surprised at seeing any portion of the

hull still standing above the water, we were dumbfounded when we saw

a man jump from the bow near the broken foremast and swim through the

fiercely raging waters to the after deck house, and in the face of the

pounding sea that beat upon him, climb under a sheltering piece of the

cabin that had not been torn away.

That a human being could live through such a night as that, in that icy

water and retain his hold upon any part of those ice covered timbers

and sea swept wreck seemed incredible. But the chapter of horrors was

not yet complete in this wretched disaster. Piece by piece the sea

tore away what remained of the wreck until nothing but the deck house

roof remained above the sea; as wave after wave hurled itself against

the battered top it was seen to lift from its fastenings that held

it to the submerged wreck and the next wave bore it off far into the

thrashing sea. Then we saw, clinging to the few remaining pieces of the

frame of the deck house, with a death grasp, four members of the ship’s

company, but endurance had reached its limits and they were quickly

swept from the last possible thing to which they could cling, and

though they made a last heroic effort to seize some piece of wreckage,

two of them did succeed in grasping some floating object and were

carried for a considerable distance towards the shore, but their long

and terrible exposure had so exhausted and chilled them that they could

make no further exertion and the mad sea claimed them.

Some adverse criticism was directed against the men of the Life Saving

corps, for their failure to rescue these sailors, but it was wholly

unmerited as the Life Savers did everything in their power or that it

was possible to do under the circumstances.

It was one of those terrible marine disasters, of which there are many,

where man is a plaything in the grip of the sea when the storm king is

abroad in his might.

THE JASON

Late in the afternoon of December 5th, 1893, the patrol of the coast

guard of Life Savers of Nauset Beach, a few miles south of Highland

Light, during a momentary break in the furious storm driven snow, saw

the outlines of a great ship, not more than two miles from the beach,

heading towards the Port of Boston under close reefed lower topsails,

struggling with the grasp of giant waves which threatened every moment

to overwhelm her. Soon again the increasing gale hid all the turbulent

waters of the great sea. The winter night came on with rapid pace. All

along the shore each Life Saving crew had been warned by telephone to

watch with increased vigilance for a disaster which their experience

had taught them was inevitable. Not a coast guardsman slept that night.

All the boats and beach apparatus were made ready for instant use; the

patrol watches were doubled; the men at their stations stood ready

dressed, anxious, dreading but ever watchful and ready for the call

which they expected to come at any moment.

At 7.15 a surfman of the Pamet River station rushed breathlessly and

excitedly into the station and shouted, “She is ashore, half a mile

north of this station.” All the stations were immediately notified.

Then out into the storm and darkness and the blinding snow, along the

gale swept beach where the flying sand cut their faces like knives,

toiling through the yielding sand with their mortar guns and boats,

hoping to reach the scene of the disaster ere it was too late, the

Life Savers hurried. Chips and logs along the shore were gathered

together and a huge bonfire kindled that those on the ship might know

that every human effort was being exerted to aid them. By the glare of

the light on the shore away over there in the awful night the faint

outlines of the doomed ship could be seen, her great white sails being

torn to shreds by the savage fury of the winter storm. Great torrents

of gale driven sea swept her decks every moment. Her broken masts fell

with a crash to her decks. Soon her iron hull was twisted and wrenched

asunder; through her rended decks and battered sides floated portions

of her cargo to the shore. The cries of her drowning sailors could be

heard above the fury of the storm. The mortar gun of the Life Savers

thundered again and again. The shots sped true to their mark and the

life lines fell across the ship’s hull, but her men could not reach

them, so madly rushed the waters between. Soon a surfman saw a dark

object thrown up by the sea; it was a human being. He was quickly taken

up by willing hands and hurried to the station, restoratives were

applied and soon he was able to tell the story of the wreck:

“Our vessel was the British ship Jason, Capt. McMillan. We were on a

voyage from the East Indies to Boston with jute bales. We did not know

our position until we saw the land at four this afternoon. We tried,

by crowding every sail upon the ship, to weather Cape Cod; we failed.

There were 27 officers and men in our ship’s company. I am the only one

that lives; I saw all my shipmates perish when the mizzenmast fell.”

[Illustration: WRECK OF THE JASON]

Like many another shipwreck the irony of fate pursued this ship’s

company, when her keel was driven into the sand bar by the force of

the mighty waves which hurled her forward, the only spot upon the

whole ship which seemed to offer a place of refuge from the boiling

surf which tore across her deck was the mizzenmast. Into the rigging

of this spar every man hurried except the one man who was saved. He

was swept from the rail before he could gain a foothold with his

shipmates; but what they had hoped would be their haven of safety was

their doom. Scarcely had they climbed above the maelstrom of rushing

waters when the mast went down with a crash into the sea, killing many

of the sailors in its fall and drowning the others in the wreckage. The

foremast stood unmoved by the winter’s storms for many weeks. Could

this unfortunate crew have reached this portion of the ship many of

them would have been rescued on the following day.

Out there today when the tide is low, protruding through the sands of

the bar and the white caps that wash them, are the broken fragments of

the sunken ship looking like tombstones in the village churchyard. All

along the shores of this wind swept and sea washed coast those half

submerged and silent sentinels remind us that up and down this sandy

reach the ever moving sea has covered hundreds of those heroic men who

have gone down in ships on the great sea.

LOSS OF THE STEAMSHIP PORTLAND

Among all the terrible disasters which have made the dreaded shores of

Cape Cod known to mariners the world over, probably the worst of all

was the loss of the steamer Portland, which sailed from her pier in

Boston, on the evening of November 26th, 1898, on one of her regular

trips to Portland, Maine, and before midnight of the following day

her broken timbers, cabin fittings, large quantities of cargo and

dead bodies lined the outer shores of Cape Cod, from Highland Light

to Chatham. Not a person of her 175 passengers and crew survived the

disaster.

The awful hurricane which swept the coast of New England that fateful

Saturday night and Sunday was the worst in the memory of living men;

the wind attained a velocity of approximately one hundred miles an hour.

When the Portland steamed out of Boston Harbor on that eventful

Saturday night her captain did not anticipate that the storm would be

more severe than the ordinary winter gale. She ran quickly down the

smooth waters of the harbor, out by Boston Light, the gale increasing

every moment. She passed Thatcher’s Island and on towards Cape Ann; she

could have made Gloucester Harbor, but her master hoped the storm had

reached its worst; not so, for every moment it grew more furious; the

lights along the coast, one after another, were now blotted out by the

ever thickening snow, the great seas ran riot in the bay. Now it was

too late to turn back; the ship plunged into the wild seas that rose

like mountains before her. To have attempted to turn the ship about

with her high superstructure when she would have fallen off into the

trough of the sea would mean her speedy destruction. On she staggered

in the inky darkness of the wretched night until the fury of the gale

and sea checked her further progress; then their only hope lay in being

able to keep the ship’s head towards the wind. All through the long

night and far into the next day, Sunday, the ship reared and plunged

in the mad sea, slowly but surely every hour being carried nearer the

lee shore of Cape Cod, drifting helplessly but ever with her bow to

the sea. At 4 o’clock on the afternoon of Sunday the Life Savers at

Race Point Station heard two distinct blasts of a steamer’s whistle,

sharp and piercing; at 10 o’clock that night the patrolmen from

stations south of Race Point came upon great masses of broken beams,

deck-houses, furniture, boxes and barrels of freight and several dead

bodies.

It is believed by men on the coast familiar with storms and tides that

the whistle heard by the Race Point Life Savers at 4 o’clock was the

last despairing cry sent up by the doomed ship before the sea engulfed

her and those on board, and that between that hour and 7 o’clock that

night the ship’s total destruction was accomplished.

It is no doubt a fact that the ship was held to her course until

suddenly her steering gear was torn away by some huge sea more vicious

than those before, she immediately fell off into the trough of the sea,

and amid the crash of broken timbers and the thunder of the awful sea

the ship went down with all on board.

There has been much speculation and prolonged search by the government

and others to determine if possible approximately where this ship was

swallowed up in the sea; the location of this terrible disaster has

never been satisfactorily determined, but there is no question in the

minds of sea coast men but that this ship went down somewhere between 8

and 12 miles north of Highland Light.

Out of the entire company of passengers and crew which went down with

the ship only 60 bodies were recovered. Some of those found were fully

dressed with life preservers upon them, indicating that the wearers

knew that their chances for life were slight indeed. Other bodies were

entirely nude when recovered, showing that some of the passengers had

evidently retired to their staterooms in the earlier hours of the

voyage and were made so ill by the terrible pitching and rolling that

they made no exertion to dress themselves before the ship went down.

It is believed that no less than 500 human lives were the sea’s death

toll in this awful hurricane that swept the shores of Cape Cod and

Massachusetts Bay in that frightful storm.

This disaster will pass into the annals of Cape Cod’s shipwreck history

as the one which concerned the greatest loss of life from a single

vessel.

The fury of such a gale can hardly be understood or appreciated by any

one not having had personal experience with sea coast storms. As far as

the eye could reach on that Sunday morning over the wild sea not the

least bit of blue water could be seen for a distance of two miles from

the shore; the whole ocean was a mass of seething foam; this driven

shoreward by the gale would be caught from the beach by the wind and

blown skyward high over the towering bluffs, then swept inland and

break like bursting soap bubbles in the fields hundreds of yards away.

[Illustration:

x(  Where wreckage first landed from S.S. Portland Sunday night.

P   Place five miles N. E. of High Head Life Saving Station, where

it is thought by all coast men the Portland went down.

]

Such was the force of this hurricane of wind that every window pane on

the ocean side of our house (the Signal Station at Highland Light) was

blown in and smashed into a thousand fragments. Men exposed to the full

force of the storm were blown from their feet and hurled about like

blocks of wood.

Men of the Life Saving service were exhausted by their exertions in

trying to cover their beats, and several of them were completely

unnerved by their frequent trying experiences in dragging torn and

sea-washed bodies from the surf. There were cases where some of the men

of this service were made almost nervous wrecks by their almost nightly

contact with the disfigured and unfortunate victims thrown up to their

feet by the sea.

Destruction widespread on land and sea was the result of this fearful

storm.

Never had its like been seen before.

* * * * *

My daughter for a number of years was my assistant and the following

story, which originally appeared in the New York World, may be of

interest in this connection:

THE GIFT OF THE SEA

_A true tale of Cape Cod, written for the New York World by Lillian May

Small, only official woman marine observer in the United States._

Fishing schooner Polly, Capt. Peter Rider, weighed anchor one spring

morning in 1800 and sailed away from Provincetown. She was a staunch

craft of eighty tons, bound on a fishing voyage to Chaleurs Bay.

Besides the captain there were on board Jot Rider, the captain’s son;

Ben Smith, broad-shouldered and strong as an ox; the two Larkin boys,

ready to furl a gafftopsail in any weather; George Barnes, Tom Olsen,

the Swede; Nick Adams, Bob Atwood, the cook, and Ned, the “boy,” a

bright lad of ten years, Capt. Peter’s nephew.

This was Ned’s first trip, and he thought himself quite a man until the

Polly had rounded Race Point and began to roll about in the great green

swell of the turbulent ocean; then he wished himself back in Granny

Rider’s kitchen, where the open fireplace kept a fellow dry, where the

dishes didn’t roll off the table, where things smelled good and clean,

not like the nasty bilge water that washed about in the Polly’s run,

but where a boy could take off his boots when he went to bed, you know.

But he couldn’t go back, so, with a quiet cry now and then, all by

himself up in the bow of the Polly, where the men wouldn’t see him, he

managed to brace up and help the cook down in the fo’cas’tle, and pull

on the main sheet and reef an furl, anything except steer; discipline

aboard a “codder” was as strict as on a man-of-war and boys were not

allowed to handle the tiller. Favoring winds wafted the boat eastward

along the northern coast, past jutting, rocky headlands and surf-washed

spits, to an anchorage on the fishing banks. Three months the Polly

swung at her anchors, at times idly upon the smooth waters, at times

pitching wildly with a savage pull at the cable when the tempest beat

down upon the stormy waters of that desolate coast.

But now the low-set hull told the story of a successful catch. The last

basketful of salt had been “wet,” the fishing lines were snugly coiled

upon the reels. It was Sunday morning. Capt. Peter was no autocrat, and

it was his custom to have “all hands” down to breakfast in the cabin on

Sabbath mornings.

“Well, boys,” said Capt. Peter, when all were gathered around the rough

table, “we’ve got a putty good trip under hatches, so arter breakfuss

I guess we’ll get the hook aboard and head the Polly for home.”

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