CHAPTER XVI.

Ratong river below Mon Lepcha -- Ferns -- Vegetation of Yoksun,

tropical -- _Araliaceae,_ fodder for cattle -- Rice-paper plant --

Geology of Yoksun -- Lake -- Old temples -- Funereal cypresses --

Gigantic chait -- Altars -- Songboom -- Weather -- Catsuperri --

Velocity of Ratong -- Worship at Catsuperri lake -- Scenery -- Willow

-- Lamas and ecclesiastical establishments of Sikkim -- Tengling --

Changachelling temples and monks -- Portrait of myself on walls --

Block of mica-schist -- Lingcham Kajee asks for spectacles --

Hee-hill -- Arrive at Little Rungeet -- At Dorjiling -- Its deserted

and wintry appearance.

On the following day we marched to Yoksun: the weather was fair,

though it was evidently snowing on the mountains above. I halted at

the Ratong river, at the foot of Mon Lepcha, where I found its

elevation to be 7,150 feet; its edges were frozen, and the

temperature of the water 36 degrees; it is here a furious torrent

flowing between gneiss rocks which dip south-south-east, and is

flanked by flat-topped beds of boulders, gravel and sand, twelve to

fourteen feet thick. Its vegetation resembles that of Dorjiling, but

is more alpine, owing no doubt to the proximity of Kinchinjunga.

The magnificent _Rhododendron argenteum_ was growing on its banks.

On the other hand, I was surprised to see a beautiful fern (a

_Trichomanes,_ very like the Irish one) which is not found at

Dorjiling. The same day, at about the same elevation, I gathered

sixty species of fern, many of very tropical forms.* [They consisted

of the above-mentioned _Trichomanes,_ three _Hymenophyllae, Vittaria,

Pleopeltis,_ and _Marattia,_ together with several _Selaginellas._]

No doubt the range of such genera is extended in proportion to the

extreme damp and equable climate, here, as about Dorjiling.

Tree-ferns are however absent, and neither plantains, epiphytical

_Orchideae,_ nor palms, are so abundant, or ascend so high as on the

outer ranges. About Yoksun itself, which occupies a very warm

sheltered flat, many tropical genera occur, such as tall bamboos of

two kinds, grasses allied to the sugar-cane, scarlet _Erythrina,_ and

various _Araliaceae,_ amongst which was one species whose pith was of

so curious a structure, that I had no hesitation in considering the

then unknown Chinese substance called rice-paper to belong to a

closely allied plant.* [The Chinese rice-paper has long been known to

be cut from cylinders of pith which has always a central hollow

chamber, divided into compartments by septa or excessively thin

plates. It is only within the last few months that my supposition has

been confirmed, by my father's receiving from China, after many years

of correspondence, specimens of the rice-paper plant itself, which

very closely resemble, in botanical characters, as well as in outward

appearance of size and habit, the Sikkim plant.]

The natives collect the leaves of many Aralias as fodder for cattle,

for which purpose they are of the greatest service in a country where

grass for pasture is so scarce; this is the more remarkable, since

they belong to the natural family of ivy, which is usually poisonous;

the use of this food, however, gives a peculiar taste to the butter.

In other parts of Sikkim, fig-leaves are used for the same purpose,

and branches of a bird-cherry (_Prunus_), a plant also of a very

poisonous family, abounding in prussic acid.

We were received with great kindness by the villagers of Yoksun, who

had awaited our return with some anxiety, and on hearing of our

approach had collected large supplies of food; amongst other things

were tares (called by the Lepchas "Kullai"), yams ("Book"), and a

bread made by bruising together damp maize and rice into tough thin

cakes ("Ketch-ung tapha"). The Lamas of Doobdi were especially civil,

having a favour to ask, which was that I would intercede with

Dr. Campbell to procure the permission of the Nepalese to reopen the

Kanglanamo pass, and thus give some occupation to their herds of

yaks, which were now wandering idly about.

I botanized for two days on the Yoksun flat, searching for evidence

of lacustrine strata or moraines, being more than ever convinced by

the views I had obtained of this place from Mon Lepcha, that its

uniformity of surface was due to water action. It is certainly the

most level area of its size that I know of in Sikkim, though situated

in one of the deepest valleys, and surrounded on almost all sides by

very steep mountains; and it is far above the flat gravel terraces of

the present river-beds. I searched the surface of the flat for gravel

beds in vain, for though it abounds in depressions that must have

formerly been lake-beds, and are now marshes in the rainy season,

these were all floored with clay. Along the western edge, where the

descent is very steep for 1800 feet to the Ratong, I found no traces

of stratified deposits, though the spurs which projected from it were

often flattened at top. The only existing lake has sloping clay

banks, covered with spongy vegetable mould; it has no permanent

affluent or outlet, its present drainage being subterranean, or more

probably by evaporation; but there is an old water-channel several

feet above its level. It is eighty to a hundred yards across, and

nearly circular; its depth three or four feet, increased to fifteen

or sixteen in the rains; like all similar pools in Sikkim, it

contains little or no animal life at this season, and I searched in

vain for shells, insects, or frogs. All around were great blocks of

gneiss, some fully twelve feet square.

The situation of this lake is very romantic, buried in a tall forest

of oaks and laurels, and fringed by wild camellia shrubs; the latter

are not the leafy, deep green, large-blossomed plants of our

greenhouses, but twiggy bushes with small scattered leaves, and

little yellowish flowers like those of the tea-plant. The massive

walls of a ruined temple rise close to the water, which looks like

the still moat of a castle: beside it are some grand old funereal

cypresses, with ragged scattered branches below, where they struggle

for light in the dense forest, but raising their heads aloft as

bright green pyramids.

Illustration--ALTAR AND SONG-BOOM AT YOKSUN.

After some difficulty I found the remains of a broad path that

divided into two; one of them led to a second ruined temple, fully a

mile off, and the other I followed to a grove, in which was a

gigantic chait; it was a beautiful lane throughout, bordered with

bamboo, brambles, gay-flowered _Melastomaceae_ like hedge-roses, and

scarlet _Erythrina_: there were many old mendongs and chaits on the

way, which I was always careful to leave on the right hand in

passing, such being the rule among Boodhists, the same which ordains

that the praying-cylinder or "Mani" be made to revolve in a direction

against the sun's motion.

This great chait is the largest in Sikkim; it is called "Nirbogong,"

and appears to be fully forty feet high; facing it is a stone altar

about fifteen feet long and four broad, and behind this again is a

very curious erection called "Song-boom," used for burning juniper as

incense; it resembles a small smelting furnace, and consists of an

elongated conical stone building eight feet high, raised on a single

block; it is hollow, and divided into three stories or chambers; in

the lower of which is a door, by which fuel is placed inside, and the

smoke ascending through holes in the upper slabs, escapes by lateral

openings from the top compartment. These structures are said to be

common in Tibet, but I saw no other in Sikkim.

During my stay at Yoksun, the weather was very cold, especially at

night, considering the elevation (5,600 feet): the mean temperature

was 39 degrees, the extremes being 19.2 degrees and 60 degrees; and

even at 8 a.m. the thermometer, laid on the frosty grass, stood at 20

degrees; temperatures which are rare at Dorjiling, 1500 feet higher.

I could not but regard with surprise such half tropical genera as

perennial-leaved vines, _Saccharum, Erythrina,_ large bamboos,

_Osbeckia_ and cultivated millet, resisting such low temperatures.*

[This is no doubt due to the temperature of the soil being always

high: I did not sink a thermometer at Yoksun, but from observations

taken at similar elevations, the temperature of the earth, at three

feet depth, may be assumed to be 55 degrees.]

On the 14th January I left Yoksun for the lake and temples of

Catsuperri, the former of which is by much the largest in Sikkim.

After a steep descent of 1800 feet, we reached the Ratong, where its

bed is only 3,790 feet above the sea; it is here a turbulent stream,

twelve yards across, with the usual features of gravel terraces, huge

boulders of gneiss and some of the same rock _in situ,_ striking

north-east. Some idea of its velocity may be formed from the descent

it makes from the foot of Mon Lepcha, where the elevation of its bed

was 7,150 feet, giving a fall of 3,350 feet in only ten miles.

Hence I ascended a very steep spur, through tropical vegetation, now

become so familiar to me that I used to count the number of species

belonging to the different large natural orders, as I went along.

I gathered only thirty-five ferns at these low elevations, in the

same space as produces from fifty to sixty in the more equable and

humid regions of 6000 feet; grasses on the other hand were much more

numerous. The view of the flat of Yoksun from Lungschung village,

opposite to it, and on about the same level, is curious; as is that

of the hamlet of Lathiang on the same side, which I have before

noticed as being placed on a very singular flat shelf above the

Ratong, and is overhung by rocks.

Ascending very steeply for several thousand feet, we reached a hollow

on the Catsuperri spur, beyond which the lake lies buried in a deep

forest. A Lama from the adjacent temple accompanied us, and I found

my people affecting great solemnity as they approached its sacred

bounds; they incessantly muttered "Om mani," etc., kotowed to trees

and stones, and hung bits of rag on the bushes. A pretence of

opposing our progress was made by the priest, who of course wanted

money; this I did not appear to notice, and after a steep descent, we

were soon on the shores of what is, for Sikkim, a grand sheet of

water, (6,040 feet above the sea), without any apparent outlet: it

may be from three to five hundred yards across in the rains, but was

much less now, and was bordered by a broad marsh of bog moss

(_Sphagnum_), in which were abundance of _Azolla,_ colouring the

waters red, and sedges. Along the banks were bushes of _Rhododendron

barbatum_ and _Berberis insignis,_* [This magnificent new species has

not been introduced into England; it forms a large bush, with

deep-green leaves seven inches long, and bunches of yellow flowers.]

but the mass of the vegetation was similar to that of Dorjiling.

We crossed the marsh to the edge of the lake by a rude paved way of

decaying logs, through which we often plunged up to our knees.

The Lama had come provided with a piece of bark, shaped like a boat,

some juniper incense and a match-box, with which he made a fire, and

put it in the boat, which he then launched on the lake as a votive

offering to the presiding deity. It was a dead calm, but the impetus

he gave to the bark shot it far across the lake, whose surface was

soon covered with a thick cloud of white smoke. Taking a rupee from

me, the priest then waved his arm aloft, and pretended to throw the

money into the water, singing snatches of prayers in Tibetan, and at

times shrieking at the top of his voice to the Dryad who claims these

woods and waters as his own. There was neither bird, beast, nor

insect to be seen, and the scenery was as impressive to me, as the

effect of the simple service was upon my people, who prayed with

redoubled fervour, and hung more rags on the bushes.

I need hardly say that this invocation of the gods of the woods and

waters forms no part of Lama worship; but the Lepchas are but half

Boodhists; in their hearts they dread the demons of the grove, the

lake, the snowy mountain and the torrent, and the crafty Lama takes

advantage of this, modifies his practices to suit their requirements,

and is content with the formal recognition of the spiritual supremacy

of the church. This is most remarkably shown in their acknowledgment

of the day on which offerings had been made from time immemorial by

the pagan Lepchas to the genius of Kinchinjunga, by holding it as a

festival of the church throughout Sikkim.* [On that occasion an

invocation to the mountain is chanted by priests and people in

chorus. Like the Lama's address to the genius of Catsuperri lake, its

meaning, if it ever had any, is not now apparent. It runs thus:--

"Kanchin-jinga, Pemi Kadup

Gnetche Tangla, Dursha tember

Zu jinga Pemsum Serkiem

Dischze Kubra Kanchin tong."

This was written for me by Dr. Campbell, who, like myself, has vainly

sought its solution; it is probably a mixture of Tibetan and Lepcha,

both as much corrupted as the celebrated "Om mani padmi boom," which

is universally pronounced by Lepchas "Menny pemmy boom." This reminds

me that I never got a solution of this sentence from a Lama, of

whatever rank or learning; and it was only after incessant inquiry,

during a residence of many years in Nepal, that Mr. Hodgson at last

procured the interpretation, or rather paraphrase: "Hail to him

(Sakya) of the lotus and the jewel," which is very much the same as

M. Klaproth and other authorities have given.]

The two Catsuperri temples occupy a spur 445 feet above the lake, and

6,485 feet above the sea; they are poor, and only remarkable for a

miserable weeping-willow tree planted near them, said to have been

brought from Lhassa. The monks were very civil to me, and offered

amongst other things a present of excellent honey. One was an

intelligent man, and gave me much information: he told me that there

were upwards of twenty religious establishments in Sikkim, containing

more than 1000 priests. These have various claims upon the devout:

thus, Tassiding, Doobdi, Changachelling, and Pemiongchi, are

celebrated for their antiquity, and the latter also for being the

residence of the head Lama; Catsuperri for its lake; Raklang for its

size, etc. All are under one spiritual head, who is the Tupgain Lama,

or eldest son of the Rajah; and who resides at the Phadong convent,

near Tumloong: the Lama of Pemiongchi is, however, the most highly

respected, on account of his age, position, and sanctity. Advancement

in the hierarchy is dependent chiefly on interest, but indirectly on

works also; pilgrimages to Lhassa and Teshoo Loombo are the highest

of these, and it is clearly the interest of the supreme pontiffs of

those ecclesiastical capitals to encourage such, and to intimate to

the Sikkim authorities, the claims those who perform them have for

preferment. Dispensations for petty offences are granted to Lamas of

low degree and monks, by those of higher station, but crimes against

the church are invariably referred to Tibet, and decided there.

The election to the Sikkim Lamaseries is generally conducted on the

principle of self-government, but Pemiongchi and some others are

often served by Lamas appointed from Tibet, or ordained there, at

some of the great convents. I never heard of an instance of any

Sikkim Lama arriving at such sanctity as to be considered immortal,

and to reappear after death in another individual, nor is there any

election of infants. All are of the Ningma, Dookpa, or Shammar sect,

and are distinguished by their red mitres; they were once dominant

throughout Tibet, but after many wars* [The following account of the

early war between the red and the yellow-mitred Lamas was given me by

Tchebu Lama:--For twenty-five generations the red-cape (Dookpa or

Ningma) prevailed in Tibet, when they split into two sects, who

contended for supreme power; the Lama of Phado, who headed the

dissenters, and adopted a yellow mitre, being favoured by the Emperor

of China, to whom reference was made. A persecution of the red Lamas

followed, who were caught by the yellow-caps, and their mitres

plunged into dyeing vats kept always ready at the Lamaseries.

The Dookpa, however, still held Teshoo Loombo, and applied to the

Sokpo (North Tibet) Lamas for aid, who bringing horses and camels,

easily prevailed over the Gelookpa or yellow sect, but afterwards

treacherously went over to them, and joined them in an attack on

Teshoo Loombo, which was plundered and occupied by the Gelookpas.

The Dookpa thereafter took refuge in Sikkim and Bhotan, whence the

Bhotan Rajah became their spiritual chief under the name of Dhurma

Rajah, and is now the representative of that creed. Goorucknath is

still the Dookpa's favourite spiritual deity of the older creed,

which is, however, no longer in the ascendant. The Dalai Lama of

Teshoo Loombo is a Gelookpa, as is the Rimbochay Lama, and the Potala

Lama of Lhassa, according to Tchebu Lama, but Turner ("Travels in

Tibet," p. 315) says the contrary; the Gelookpa consider Sakya Thoba

(or Tsongkaba) alias Mahamouni, as their great avatar.] with the

yellow-caps, they were driven from that country, and took refuge

principally in the Himalaya. The Bhotan or Dhurma* [Bhotan is

generally known as the Dhurma country. See note, Chapter V.] Rajah

became the spiritual head of this sect, and, as is well known,

disputes the temporal government also of his country with the Deva

Rajah, who is the hereditary temporal monarch, and never claims

spiritual jurisdiction. I am indebted to Dr. Campbell for a copy and

translation of the Dhurma Rajah's great seal, containing the

attributes of his spirituality, a copy of which I have appended to

the end of this chapter.

The internal organisation of the different monastic establishments is

very simple. The head or Teshoo Lama* [I have been informed by

letters from Dr. Campbell that the Pemiongchi Lama is about to remove

the religious capital of Sikkim to Dorjiling, and build there a grand

temple and monastery; this will be attractive to visitors, and afford

the means of extending our knowledge of East Tibet.] rules supreme;

then come the monks and various orders of priests, and then those who

are candidates for orders, and dependents, both lay-brothers and

slaves: there are a few nunneries in Sikkim, and the nuns are all

relatives or connections of the Rajah, his sister is amongst them.

During the greater part of the year, all lead a more or less idle

life; the dependents being the most occupied in carrying wood and

water, cultivating the land, etc.

The lay-brothers are often skilful workmen, and are sometimes lent or

hired out as labourers, especially as housebuilders and decorators.

No tax of any kind is levied on the church, which is frequently very

rich in land, flocks, and herds, and in contributions from the

people: land is sometimes granted by the Rajah, but is oftener

purchased by the priests, or willed, or given by the proprietor.

The services, to which I have already alluded, are very irregularly

performed; in most temples only on festival days, which correspond to

the Tibetan ones so admirably described in MM. Huc and Gabet's

narrative; in a few, however, service is performed daily, especially

in such as stand near frequented roads, and hence reap the

richest harvest.

Like all the natives of Tibet and Sikkim, the priests are intolerably

filthy; in some cases so far carrying out their doctrines as not even

to kill the vermin with which they swarm. All are nominally bound to

chastity, but exemptions in favour of Lamas of wealth, rank, or

power, are granted by the supreme pontiffs, both in Tibet and Sikkim.

I constantly found swarms of children about the Lamaseries, who were

invariably called nephews and nieces.

Descending from the Catsuperri temples, I encamped at the village of

Tengling (elevation 5,257 feet), where I was waited upon by a bevy of

forty women, Lepchas and Sikkim Bhoteeas, accompanied by their

children, and bringing presents of fowls, rice and vegetables, and

apologising for the absence of their male relatives, who were gone to

carry tribute to the Rajah. Thence I marched to Changachelling, first

descending to the Tengling river, which divides the Catsuperri from

the Molli ridge, and which I crossed.

Tree-ferns here advance further north than in any other part of

Sikkim. I did not visit the Molli temples, but crossed the spur of

that name, to the Rungbee river, whose bed is 3,300 feet above the

sea; thence I ascended upwards of 3,500 feet to the Changachelling

temples, passing Tchongpong village. The ridge on which both

Pemiongchi and Changachelling are built, is excessively narrow at

top; it is traversed by a "via Sacra," connecting these two

establishments; this is a pretty wooded walk, passing mendongs and

chaits hoary with lichens and mosses; to the north the snows of

Kinchinjunga are seen glimmering between the trunks of oaks, laurels,

and rhododendrons, while to the south the Sinchul and Dorjiling spurs

shut out the view of the plains of India.

Changachelling temples and chaits crown a beautiful rocky eminence on

the ridge, their roofs, cones and spires peeping through groves of

bamboo, rhododendrons, and arbutus; the ascent is by broad flights of

steps cut in the mica-slate rocks, up which shaven and girdled monks,

with rosaries and long red gowns, were dragging loads of bamboo

stems, that produced a curious rattling noise. At the summit there is

a fine temple, with the ruins of several others, and of many houses:

the greater part of the principal temple, which is two-storied and

divided into several compartments, is occupied by families. The monks

were busy repairing the part devoted to worship, which consists of a

large chamber and vestibule of the usual form: the outside walls are

daubed red, with a pigment of burnt felspathic clay, which is dug

hard by. Some were painting the vestibule with colours brought from

Lhassa, where they had been trained to the art. Amongst other figures

was one playing on a guitar, a very common symbol in the vestibules

of Sikkim temples: I also saw an angel playing on the flute, and a

snake-king offering fruit to a figure in the water, who was grasping

a serpent. Amongst the figures I was struck by that of an Englishman,

whom, to my amusement, and the limner's great delight, I recognised

as myself. I was depicted in a flowered silk coat instead of a tartan

shooting jacket, my shoes were turned up at the toes, and I had on

spectacles and a tartar cap, and was writing notes in a book. On one

side a snake-king was politely handing me fruit, and on the other a

horrible demon was writhing.

A crowd had collected to see whether I should recognise myself, and

when I did so, the merriment was extreme. They begged me to send them

a supply of vermilion, goldleaf, and brushes; our so called

camel's-hair pencils being much superior to theirs, which are made of

marmot's hair.

I was then conducted to a house, where I found salted and buttered

tea and Murwa beer smoking in hospitable preparation. As usual, the

house was of wood, and the inhabited apartments above the low

basement story were approached by an outside ladder, like a Swiss

cottage: within were two rooms floored with earth; the inner was

small, and opened on a verandah that faced Kinchinjunga, whence the

keen wind whistled through the apartment.

The head Lama, my jolly fat friend of the 20th of December, came to

breakfast with me, followed by several children, nephews and nieces

he said; but they were uncommonly like him for such a distant

relationship, and he seemed extremely fond of them, and much pleased

when I stuffed them with sugar.

Changachelling hill is remarkable for having on its summit an immense

tabular mass of chlorite slate, resting apparently horizontally on

variously inclined rocks of the same: it is quite flat-topped, ten to

twelve yards each way, and the sides are squared by art; the country

people attribute its presence here to a miracle.

The view of the Kinchin range from this spot being one of the finest

in Sikkim, and the place itself being visible from Dorjiling, I took

a very careful series of bearings, which, with those obtained at

Pemiongchi, were of the utmost use in improving my map, which was

gradually progressing. To my disappointment I found that neither

priest nor people knew the name of a single snowy mountain. I also

asked in vain for some interpretation of the lines I have quoted at

earlier; they said they were Lepcha worship, and that they only used

them for the gratification of the people, on the day of the great

festival of Kinchinjunga.

Hence I descended to the Kulhait river, on my route back to

Dorjiling, visiting my very hospitable tippling friend, the Kajee of

Lingcham, on the way down: he humbly begged me to get him a pair of

spectacles, for no other object than to look wise, as he had the eyes

of a hawk; he told me that mine drew down universal respect in

Sikkim, and that I had been drawn with them on, in the temple at

Changachelling; and that a pair would not only wonderfully become

him, but afford him the most pleasing recollections of myself.

Happily I had the means of gratifying him, and have since been told

that he wears them on state occasions.

I encamped by the river, 3,160 feet above the sea, amongst figs and

plantains, on a broad terrace of pebbles, boulders and sand, ten feet

above the stream; the rocks in the latter were covered with a red

conferva. The sand on the banks was disposed in layers, alternately

white and red, the white being quartz, and the red pulverised

garnets. The arranging of these sand-bands by the water must be due

to the different specific gravities of the garnet and quartz; the

former being lighter, is lifted by the current on to the surface of

the quartz, and left there when the waters retire.

On the next day I ascended Hee hill, crossed it at an elevation of

7,290 feet, and camped on the opposite side at 6,680 feet, in a dense

forest. The next march was still southward to the little Rungeet

guard-house, below Dorjiling spur, which I reached after a fatiguing

walk amidst torrents of rain. The banks of the little Rungeet river,

which is only 1,670 feet above the sea, are very flat and low, with

broad terraces of pebbles and shingle, upon which are huge gneiss

boulders, fully 200 feet above the stream.

On the 19th of January, I ascended the Tukvor spur to Dorjiling, and

received a most hospitable welcome from my friend Mr. Muller, now

almost the only European inhabitant of the place; Mr. Hodgson having

gone down on a shooting excursion in the Terai, and Dr. Campbell

being on duty on the Bhotan frontier. The place looked what it really

was--wholly deserted. The rain I had experienced in the valley, had

here been snow, and the appearance of the broad snowed patches clear

of trees, and of the many houses without smoke or inhabitant, and the

tall scattered trees with black bark and all but naked branches, was

dismal in the extreme. The effect was heightened by an occasional

Hindoo, who flitted here and there along the road, crouching and

shivering, with white cotton garments and bare legs.

The delight of my Lepcha attendants at finding themselves safely at

home again, knew no bounds; and their parents waited on me with

presents, and other tokens of their goodwill and gratitude. I had no

lack of volunteers for a similar excursion in the following season,

though with their usual fickleness, more than half failed me, long

before the time arrived for putting their zeal to the proof.

------------

I am indebted to Dr. Campbell for the accompanying impression and

description of the seal of the Dhurma Rajah, or sovereign pontiff of

Bhotan, and spiritual head of the whole sect of the Dookpa, or

red-mitred Lama Boodhists. The translations were made by Aden Tchehu

Lama, who accompanied us into Sikkim in 1849, and I believe they are

quite correct. The Tibetan characters run from left to right.

The seal of the Dhurma Rajah is divided into a centre portion and

sixteen rays. In the centre is the word Dookyin, which means "The

Dookpa Creed"; around the "Dookyin" are sixteen similar letters,

meaning "I," or "I am." The sixteen radial compartments contain his

titles and attributes, thus, commencing from the centre erect one,

and passing round from left to right:--

1. I am the Spiritual and Temporal Chief of the Realm.

2. The Defender of the Faith.

3. Equal to Saruswati in learning.

4. Chief of all the Boodhs.

5. Head expounder of the Shasters.

6. Caster out of devils.

7. The most learned in the Holy Laws.

8. An Avatar of God (or, by God's will).

9. Absolver of sins.

10. I am above all the Lamas of the Dookpa Creed.

11. I am of the best of all Religions--the Dookpa.

12. The punisher of unbelievers.

18. Unequalled in expounding the Shasters.

14. Unequalled in holiness and wisdom.

15. The head (or fountain) of all Religious Knowledge.

16. The Enemy of all false Avatars.

Himalayan Journals — Volume 1 Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc. · 第 16 / 17 章