MANDAN VILLAGE, UPPER MISSOURI.

In several of my former Letters I have given sketches of the village,

and some few of the customs of these peculiar people; and I have many

more yet in store; some of which will induce the readers to laugh, and

others almost dispose them to weep. But at present, I drop them, and

introduce a few of the wild and gentlemanly Mandans themselves; and

first, Ha-na-tah-nu-mauh, the wolf chief (+plate+ 49). This man is

head-chief of the nation, and familiarly known by the name of “Chef

de Loup,” as the French Traders call him; a haughty, austere, and

overbearing man, respected and feared by his people rather than loved.

The tenure by which this man holds his office, is that by which the

head-chiefs of most of the tribes claim, that of inheritance. It is

a general, though not an infallible rule amongst the numerous tribes

of North American Indians, that the office of chief belongs to the

eldest son of a chief; provided he shews himself, by his conduct, to be

equally worthy of it as any other in the nation: making it hereditary

on a very proper condition—in default of which requisites, or others

which may happen, the office is elective.

The dress of this chief was one of great extravagance, and some beauty;

manufactured of skins, and a great number of quills of the raven,

forming his stylish head-dress.

The next and second chief of the tribe, is Mah-to-toh-pa (the four

bears). This extraordinary man, though second in office is undoubtedly

the first and most popular man in the nation. Free, generous, elegant

and gentlemanly in his deportment—handsome, brave and valiant; wearing

a robe on his back, with the history of his battles emblazoned on it;

which would fill a book of themselves, if properly translated. This,

readers, is the most extraordinary man, perhaps, who lives at this day,

in the atmosphere of Nature’s noblemen; and I shall certainly tell you

more of him anon.

After him, there are Mah-tahp-ta-ha, he who rushes through the middle

(+plate+ 50); Seehk-hee-da, the mouse-coloured feather (+plate+ 51);

San-ja-ka-ko-kah (the deceiving wolf); Mah-to-he-ha (the old bear), and

others, distinguished as chiefs and warriors—and there are belles also;

such as Mi-neek-e-sunk-te-ca, the mink (+plate+ 53); and the little

gray-haired Sha-ko-ka, mint (+plate+ 52); and fifty others, who are

famous for their conquests, not with the bow or the javelin, but

with their small black eyes, which shoot out from under their unfledged

brows, and pierce the boldest, fiercest chieftain to the heart.

[Illustration: 49]

[Illustration: 50 51]

[Illustration: 52 53]

The Mandans are certainly a very interesting and pleasing people in

their personal appearance and manners; differing in many respects, both

in looks and customs, from all other tribes which I have seen. They

are not a warlike people; for they seldom, if ever, carry war into

their enemies’ country; but when invaded, shew their valour and courage

to be equal to that of any people on earth. Being a small tribe, and

unable to contend on the wide prairies with the Sioux and other roaming

tribes, who are ten times more numerous; they have very judiciously

located themselves in a permanent village, which is strongly fortified,

and ensures their preservation. By this means they have advanced

further in the arts of manufacture; have supplied their lodges more

abundantly with the comforts, and even luxuries of life, than any

Indian nation I know of. The consequence of this is, that this tribe

have taken many steps ahead of other tribes in manners and refinements

(if I may be allowed to apply the word refinement to Indian life); and

are therefore familiarly (and correctly) denominated, by the Traders

and others, who have been amongst them, “the polite and friendly

Mandans.”

There is certainly great justice in the remark; and so forcibly have

I been struck with the peculiar ease and elegance of these people,

together with the diversity of complexions, the various colours of

their hair and eyes; the singularity of their language, and their

peculiar and unaccountable customs, that I am fully convinced that

they have sprung from some other origin than that of the other North

American tribes, or that they are an amalgam of natives with some

civilized race.

Here arises a question of very great interest and importance for

discussion; and, after further familiarity with their character,

customs, and traditions, if I forget it not, I will eventually give it

further consideration. Suffice it then, for the present, that their

_personal appearance_ alone, independent of their modes and customs,

pronounces them at once, as more or less, than savage.

A stranger in the Mandan village is first struck with the different

shades of complexion, and various colours of hair which he sees in a

crowd about him; and is at once almost disposed to exclaim that “these

are not Indians.”

There are a great many of these people whose complexions appear as

light as half breeds; and amongst the women particularly, there are

many whose skins are almost white, with the most pleasing symmetry

and proportion of features; with hazel, with grey, and with blue

eyes,—with mildness and sweetness of expression, and excessive modesty

of demeanour, which render them exceedingly pleasing and beautiful.

Why this diversity of complexion I cannot tell, nor can they

themselves account for it. Their traditions, so far as I have yet

learned them, afford us no information of their having had any

knowledge of white men before the visit of Lewis and Clarke, made to

their village thirty-three years ago. Since that time there have been

but very few visits from white men to this place, and surely not enough

to have changed the complexions and the customs of a nation. And I

recollect perfectly well that Governor Clarke told me, before I started

for this place, that I would find the Mandans a strange people and half

white.

The diversity in the colour of hair is also equally as great as that

in the complexion; for in a numerous group of these people (and more

particularly amongst the females, who never take pains to change its

natural colour, as the men often do), there may be seen every shade and

colour of hair that can be seen in our own country, with the exception

of red or auburn, which is not to be found.

And there is yet one more strange and unaccountable peculiarity, which

can probably be seen nowhere else on earth; nor on any rational grounds

accounted for,—other than it is a freak or order of Nature, for which

she has not seen fit to assign a reason. There are very many, of both

sexes, and of every age, from infancy to manhood and old age, with hair

of a bright silvery grey; and in some instances almost perfectly white.

This singular and eccentric appearance is much oftener seen among the

women than it is with the men; for many of the latter who have it,

seem ashamed of it, and artfully conceal it, by filling their hair

with glue and black and red earth. The women, on the other hand, seem

proud of it, and display it often in an almost incredible profusion,

which spreads over their shoulders and falls as low as the knee. I have

ascertained, on a careful enquiry, that about one in ten or twelve of

the whole tribe are what the French call “cheveux gris,” or greyhairs;

and that this strange and unaccountable phenomenon is not the result of

disease or habit; but that it is unquestionably a hereditary character

which runs in families, and indicates no inequality in disposition or

intellect. And by passing this hair through my hands, as I often have,

I have found it uniformly to be as coarse and harsh as a horse’s mane;

differing materially from the hair of other colours, which amongst the

Mandans, is generally as fine and as soft as silk.

The reader will at once see, by the above facts, that there is enough

upon the faces and heads of these people to stamp them peculiar,—when

he meets them in the heart of this almost boundless wilderness,

presenting such diversities of colour in the complexion and hair; when

he knows from what he has seen, and what he has read, that all other

primitive tribes known in America, are dark copper-coloured, with jet

black hair.

From these few facts alone, the reader will see that I am amongst a

strange and interesting people, and know how to pardon me, if I lead

him through a maze of novelty and mysteries to the knowledge of a

strange, yet kind and hospitable, people, whose fate, like that of all

their race is sealed;— whose doom is fixed, to live just long enough

to be imperfectly known, and then to fall before the fell disease or

sword of civilizing devastation.

The stature of the Mandans is rather below the ordinary size of

man, with beautiful symmetry of form and proportion, and wonderful

suppleness and elasticity; they are pleasingly erect and graceful,

both in their walk and their attitudes; and the hair of the men,

which generally spreads over their backs, falling down to the hams,

and sometimes to the ground, is divided into plaits or slabs of two

inches in width, and filled with a profusion of glue and red earth or

vermilion, at intervals of an inch or two, which becoming very hard,

remains in and unchanged from year to year.

This mode of dressing the hair is curious, and gives to the Mandans the

most singular appearance. The hair of the men is uniformly all laid

over from the forehead backwards; carefully kept above and resting on

the ear, and thence falling down over the back, in these flattened

bunches, and painted red, extending oftentimes quite on to the calf

of the leg, and sometimes in such profusion as almost to conceal the

whole figure from the person walking behind them. In the portrait

of San-ja-ka-ko-kah (the deceiving wolf, +plate+ 54), where he is

represented at full length, with several others of his family around

him in a group, there will be seen a fair illustration of these and

other customs of these people.

The hair of the women is also worn as long as they can possibly

cultivate it, oiled very often, which preserves on it a beautiful gloss

and shows its natural colour. They often braid it in two large plaits,

one falling down just back of the ear, on each side of the head; and

on any occasion which requires them to “put on their best looks,” they

pass their fingers through it, drawing it out of braid, and spreading

it over their shoulders. The Mandan women observe strictly the same

custom, which I observed amongst the Crows and Blackfeet (and, in fact,

all other tribes I have seen, without a single exception), of parting

the hair on the forehead, and always keeping the crease or separation

filled with vermilion or other red paint. This is one of the very few

little (and apparently trivial) customs which I have found amongst the

Indians, without being able to assign any cause for it, other than that

“they are Indians,” and that this is an Indian fashion.

In mourning, like the Crows and most other tribes the women are obliged

to crop their hair all off; and the usual term of that condolence is

until the hair has grown again to its former length.

When a man mourns for the death of a near relation the case is quite

different; his long, valued tresses, are of much greater importance,

and only a lock or two can be spared. Just enough to tell of his grief

to his friends, without destroying his most valued ornament, is doing

just reverence and respect to the dead.

To repeat what I have said before, the Mandans are a pleasing and

friendly race of people, of whom it is proverbial amongst the Traders

and all who ever have known them that their treatment of white men

in their country has been friendly and kind ever since their first

acquaintance with them—they have ever met and received them, on the

prairie or in their villages, with hospitality and honour.

They are handsome, straight and elegant in their forms—not tall,

but quick and graceful; easy and polite in their manners, neat in

their persons and beautifully clad. When I say “neat in person and

beautifully clad,” however, I do not intend my readers to understand

that such is the case with them all, for among them and most other

tribes, as with the enlightened world, there are different grades of

society—those who care but little for their personal appearance, and

those who take great pains to please themselves and their friends.

Amongst this class of personages, such as chiefs and braves, or

warriors of distinction, and their families, and dandies or exquisites

(a class of beings of whom I shall take due time to speak in a future

Letter), the strictest regard to decency, and cleanliness and elegance

of dress is observed; and there are few people, perhaps, who take more

pains to keep their persons neat and cleanly than they do.

At the distance of half a mile or so above the village, is the

customary place where the women and girls resort every morning in the

summer months, to bathe in the river. To this spot they repair by

hundreds, every morning at sunrise, where, on a beautiful beach, they

can be seen running and glistening in the sun, whilst they are playing

their innocent gambols and leaping into the stream. They all learn to

swim well, and the poorest swimmer amongst them will dash fearlessly

into the boiling and eddying current of the Missouri, and cross it with

perfect ease. At the distance of a quarter of a mile back from the

river, extends a terrace or elevated prairie, running north from the

village, and forming a kind of semi-circle around this bathing-place;

and on this terrace, which is some twenty or thirty feet higher than

the meadow between it and the river, are stationed every morning

several sentinels, with their bows and arrows in hand, to guard and

protect this sacred ground from the approach of boys or men from any

directions.

At a little distance below the village, also, is the place where

the men and boys go to bathe and learn to swim. After this morning

ablution, they return to their village, wipe their limbs dry, and use a

profusion of bear’s grease through their hair and over their bodies.

The art of swimming is known to all the American Indians; and perhaps

no people on earth have taken more pains to learn it, nor any who turn

it to better account. There certainly are no people whose avocations

of life more often call for the use of their limbs in this way; as

many of the tribes spend their lives on the shores of our vast lakes

and rivers, paddling about from their childhood in their fragile bark

canoes, which are liable to continual accidents, which often throw the

Indian upon his natural resources for the preservation of his life.

There are many times also, when out upon their long marches in the

prosecution of their almost continued warfare, when it becomes

necessary to plunge into and swim across the wildest streams and

rivers, at times when they have no canoes or craft in which to cross

them. I have as yet seen no tribe where this art is neglected. It is

learned at a very early age by both sexes, and enables the strong and

hardy muscles of the squaws to take their child upon the back, and

successfully to pass any river that lies in their way.

[Illustration: 54]

The mode of swimming amongst the Mandans, as well as amongst most of

the other tribes, is quite different from that practiced in those parts

of the civilized world, which I have had the pleasure yet to visit. The

Indian, instead of parting his hands simultaneously under the chin, and

making the stroke outward, in a horizontal direction, causing thereby

a serious strain upon the chest, throws his body alternately upon the

left and the right side, raising one arm entirely above the water and

reaching as far forward as he can, to dip it, whilst his whole weight

and force are spent upon the one that is passing under him, and like a

paddle propelling him along; whilst this arm is making a half circle,

and is being raised out of the water behind him, the opposite arm is

describing a similar arch in the air over his head, to be dipped in the

water as far as he can reach before him, with the hand turned under,

forming a sort of bucket, to act most effectively as it passes in its

turn underneath him.

By this bold and powerful mode of swimming, which may want the grace

that many would wish to see, I am quite sure, from the experience I

have had, that much of the fatigue and strain upon the breast and spine

are avoided, and that a man will preserve his strength and his breath

much longer in this alternate and rolling motion, than he can in the

usual mode of swimming, in the polished world.

In addition to the modes of bathing which I have above described,

the Mandans have another, which is a much greater luxury, and often

resorted to by the sick, but far more often by the well and sound, as

a matter of luxury only, or perhaps for the purpose of hardening their

limbs and preparing them for the thousand exposures and vicissitudes

of life to which they are continually liable. I allude to their vapour

baths, or _sudatories_, of which each village has several, and which

seem to be a kind of public property—accessible to all, and resorted to

by all, male and female, old and young, sick and well.

In every Mandan lodge is to be seen a crib or basket, much in the shape

of a bathing-tub, curiously woven with willow boughs, and sufficiently

large to receive any person of the family in a reclining or recumbent

posture; which, when any one is to take a bath, is carried by the squaw

to the sudatory for the purpose, and brought back to the wigwam again

after it has been used.

These sudatories are always near the village, above or below it, on

the bank of the river. They are generally built of skins (in form of

a Crow or Sioux lodge which I have before described), covered with

buffalo skins sewed tight together, with a kind of furnace in the

centre; or in other words, in the centre of the lodge are two walls of

stone about six feet long and two and a half apart, and about three

feet high; across and over this space, between the two walls, are laid

a number of round sticks, on which the bathing crib is placed (vide

+plate+ 71). Contiguous to the lodge, and outside of it, is a little

furnace something similar, in the side of the bank, where the woman

kindles a hot fire, and heats to a red heat a number of large stones,

which are kept at these places for this particular purpose; and having

them all in readiness, she goes home or sends word to inform her

husband or other one who is waiting, that all is ready; when he makes

his appearance entirely naked, though with a large buffalo robe wrapped

around him. He then enters the lodge and places himself in the crib or

basket, either on his back or in a sitting posture (the latter of which

is generally preferred), with his back towards the door of the lodge;

when the squaw brings in a large stone red hot, between two sticks

(lashed together somewhat in the form of a pair of tongs) and, placing

it under him, throws cold water upon it, which raises a profusion of

vapour about him. He is at once enveloped in a cloud of steam, and a

woman or child will sit at a little distance and continue to dash water

upon the stone, whilst the matron of the lodge is out, and preparing to

make her appearance with another heated stone: or he will sit and dip

from a wooden bowl, with a ladle made of the mountain-sheep’s horn, and

throw upon the heated stones, with his own hands, the water which he is

drawing through his lungs and pores, in the next moment, in the most

delectable and exhilarating vapours, as it distils through the mat of

wild sage and other medicinal and aromatic herbs, which he has strewed

over the bottom of his basket, and on which he reclines.

During all this time the lodge is shut perfectly tight, and he quaffs

this delicious and renovating draught to his lungs with deep drawn

sighs, and with extended nostrils, until he is drenched in the most

profuse degree of perspiration that can be produced; when he makes a

kind of strangled signal, at which the lodge is opened, and he darts

forth with the speed of a frightened deer, and plunges headlong into

the river, from which he instantly escapes again, wraps his robe around

him and “leans” as fast as possible for home. Here his limbs are wiped

dry, and wrapped close and tight within the fur of the buffalo robes,

in which he takes his nap, with his feet to the fire; then oils his

limbs and hair with bear’s grease, dresses and plumes himself for a

visit—a feast—a parade, or a council; or slicks down his long hair,

and rubs his oiled limbs to a polish, with a piece of soft buckskin,

prepared to join in games of ball or Tchung-kee.

Such is the sudatory or the vapour bath of the Mandans, and as I before

observed, it is resorted to both as an every-day luxury by those who

have the time and energy or industry to indulge in it; and also used

by the sick as a remedy for nearly all the diseases which are known

amongst them. Fevers are very rare, and in fact almost unknown amongst

these people: but in the few cases of fever which have been known, this

treatment has been applied, and without the fatal consequences which

we would naturally predict. The greater part of their diseases are

inflammatory rheumatisms, and other chronic diseases; and for these,

this mode of treatment, with their modes of life, does admirably well.

This custom is similar amongst nearly all of these Missouri Indians,

and amongst the Pawnees, Omahas, and Punchas and other tribes, who have

suffered with the small-pox (the dread destroyer of the Indian race),

this mode was practiced by the poor creatures, who fled by hundreds

to the river’s edge, and by hundreds died before they could escape

from the waves, into which they had plunged in the heat and rage of a

burning fever. Such will yet be the scourge, and such the misery of

these poor unthinking people, and each tribe to the Rocky Mountains,

as it has been with every tribe between here and the Atlantic

Ocean. White men—whiskey—tomahawks—scalping knives—guns, powder and

ball—small-pox—debauchery—extermination.

LETTER No. 14.

Illustrations of the manners, customs, & condition of the North American Indians, Vol. 1 (of 2) With letters and notes, written during eight years of travel and adventure among the wildest and most remarkable tribes now existing · 第 17 / 38 题