MOUTH OF YELLOW STONE, _UPPER MISSOURI_.

The Letter which I gave you yesterday, on the subject of “medicines”

and “medicine-men,” has somewhat broken the “thread of my discourse;”

and left my painting-room (in the bastion), and all the Indians in it,

and portraits, and buffalo hunts, and landscapes of these beautiful

regions, to be taken up and discussed; which I will now endeavour to

do, beginning just where I left (or digressed) off.

I was seated on the cool breech of a twelve-pounder, and had my easel

before me, and Crows and Blackfeet, and Assinneboins, whom I was

tracing upon the canvass. And so I have been doing to-day, and shall

be for several days to come. My painting-room has become so great a

lounge, and I so great a “medicine-man,” that all other amusements are

left, and all other topics of conversation and gossip are postponed

for future consideration. The chiefs have had to place “soldiers”

(as they are called) at my door, with spears in hand to protect me

from the throng, who otherwise would press upon me; and none but the

worthies are allowed to come into my medicine apartments, and none to

be painted, except such as are decided by the chiefs to be worthy of so

high an honour.

The Crows and Blackfeet who are here together, are enemies of the

most deadly kind while out on the plains; but here they sit and smoke

quietly together, yet with a studied and dignified reserve.

The Blackfeet are, perhaps, one of the most (if not entirely the most)

numerous and warlike tribes on the Continent. They occupy the whole of

the country about the sources of the Missouri, from this place to the

Rocky Mountains; and their numbers, from the best computations, are

something like forty or fifty thousand—they are (like all other tribes

whose numbers are sufficiently large to give them boldness) warlike and

ferocious, _i. e._ they are predatory, are roaming fearlessly about the

country, even into and through every part of the Rocky Mountains, and

carrying war amongst their enemies, who are, of course, every tribe who

inhabit the country about them.

The Crows who live on the head waters of Yellow Stone, and extend from

this neighbourhood also to the base of the Rocky Mountains, are similar

in the above respects to the Blackfeet; roaming about a great part of

the year—and seeking their enemies wherever they can find them.

They are a much smaller tribe than the Blackfeet, with whom they are

always at war, and from whose great numbers they suffer prodigiously

in battle; and probably will be in a few years entirely destroyed by

them.

[Illustration: 20]

The Crows have not, perhaps, more than 7000 in their nation, and

probably not more than eight hundred warriors or fighting men. Amongst

the more powerful tribes, like the Sioux and Blackfeet, who have been

enabled to preserve their warriors, it is a fair calculation to count

one in five as warriors; but among the Crows and Minatarees, and

Puncahs, and several other small but warlike tribes, this proportion

cannot exist; as in some of these I have found two or three women to

a man in the nation; in consequence of the continual losses sustained

amongst their men in war, and also whilst pursuing the buffaloes on the

plains for food, where their lives are exceedingly exposed.

The Blackfeet and the Crows, like the Sioux and Assinneboins, have

nearly the same mode of constructing their wigwam or lodge; in which

tribes it is made of buffalo skins sewed together, after being dressed,

and made into the form of a tent; supported within by some twenty

or thirty pine poles of twenty-five feet in height, with an apex or

aperture at the top, through which the smoke escapes and the light

is admitted. These lodges, or tents, are taken down in a few minutes

by the squaws, when they wish to change their location, and easily

transported to any part of the country where they wish to encamp;

and they generally move some six or eight times in the course of the

summer; following the immense herds of buffaloes, as they range over

these vast plains, from east to west, and north to south. The objects

for which they do this are two-fold,—to procure and dress their skins,

which are brought in, in the fall and winter, and sold to the Fur

Company, for white man’s luxury; and also for the purpose of killing

and drying buffalo meat (+plate+ 22), which they bring in from their

hunts, packed on their horses’ backs, in great quantities; making

pemican, and preserving the marrow-fat for their winter quarters; which

are generally taken up in some heavy-timbered bottom, on the banks of

some stream, deep imbedded within the surrounding bluffs, which break

off the winds, and make their long and tedious winter tolerable and

supportable. They then sometimes erect their skin lodges amongst the

timber, and dwell in them during the winter months; but more frequently

cut logs and make a miserable and rude sort of log cabin, in which they

can live much warmer and better protected from the assaults of their

enemies, in case they are attacked; in which case a log cabin is a

tolerable fort against Indian weapons.

The Crows, of all the tribes in this region, or on the Continent,

make the most beautiful lodge. As I have before mentioned, they

construct them as the Sioux do, and make them of the same material;

yet they oftentimes dress the skins of which they are composed almost

as white as linen, and beautifully garnish them with porcupine

quills, and paint and ornament them in such a variety of ways, as

renders them exceedingly picturesque and agreeable to the eye. I have

procured a very beautiful one of this description (+plate+ 20),

highly-ornamented, and fringed with scalp-locks, and sufficiently large

for forty men to dine under. The poles which support it are about

thirty in number, of pine, and all cut in the Rocky Mountains, having

been some hundred years, perhaps, in use. This tent, when erected, is

about twenty-five feet high, and has a very pleasing effect; with the

Great or Good Spirit painted on one side, and the Evil Spirit on the

other. If I can ever succeed in transporting it to New York and other

eastern cities, it will be looked upon as a beautiful and exceedingly

interesting specimen.

The manner in which an encampment of Indians strike their tents and

transport them is curious, and to the traveller in this country a very

novel and unexpected sight, when he first beholds it. Whilst ascending

the river to this place, I saw an encampment of Sioux, consisting of

six hundred of these lodges, struck, and all things packed and on the

move in a very few minutes. The chief sends his runners or criers (for

such all chiefs keep in their employment) through the village, a few

hours before they are to start; announcing his determination to move,

and the hour fixed upon, and the necessary preparations are in the

meantime making; and at the time announced, the lodge of the chief is

seen flapping in the wind, a part of the poles having been taken out

from under it; this is the signal, and in one minute, six hundred of

them (on a level and beautiful prairie), which before had been strained

tight and fixed, were seen waving and flapping in the wind, and in one

minute more all were flat upon the ground. Their horses and dogs, of

which they had a vast number, had all been secured upon the spot, in

readiness; and each one was speedily loaded with the burthen allotted

to it, and ready to fall into the grand procession.

For this strange cavalcade, preparation is made in the following

manner: the poles of a lodge are divided into two bunches, and the

little ends of each bunch fastened upon the shoulders or withers of a

horse, leaving the butt ends to drag behind on the ground on either

side. Just behind the horse, a brace or pole is tied across, which

keeps the poles in their respective places; and then upon that and

the poles behind the horse, is placed the lodge or tent, which is

rolled up, and also numerous other articles of household and domestic

furniture, and on the top of all, two, three, and even (sometimes) four

women and children! Each one of these horses has a conductress, who

sometimes walks before and leads it, with a tremendous pack upon her

own back; and at others she sits astride of its back, with a child,

perhaps, at her breast, and another astride of the horse’s back behind

her, clinging to her waist with one arm, while it affectionately

embraces a sneaking dog-pup in the other.

In this way five or six hundred wigwams, with all their furniture

(+plate+ 21), may be seen drawn out for miles, creeping over the

grass-covered plains of this country; and three times that number of

men, on good horses, strolling along in front or on the flank; and, in

some tribes, in the rear of this heterogeneous caravan, at least five

times that number of dogs, which fall into the rank, and follow in

the train and company of the women, and every cur of them, who is large

enough, and not too cunning to be enslaved, is encumbered with a car or

sled (or whatever it may be better called), on which he patiently drags

his load—a part of the household goods and furniture of the lodge to

which he belongs. Two poles, about fifteen feet long, are placed upon

the dog’s shoulder, in the same manner as the lodge poles are attached

to the horses, leaving the larger ends to drag upon the ground behind

him; on which is placed a bundle or wallet which is allotted to him to

carry, and with which he trots off amid the throng of dogs and squaws;

faithfully and cheerfully dragging his load ’till night, and by the way

loitering and occasionally

“Catching at little bits of fun and glee

That’s played on dogs enslaved by dog that’s free.”

[Illustration: 21]

[Illustration: 22]

The Crows, like the Blackfeet, are beautifully costumed, and perhaps

with somewhat more of taste and elegance; inasmuch as the skins of

which their dresses are made are more delicately and whitely dressed.

The art of dressing skins belongs to the Indians in all countries;

and the Crows surpass the civilized world in the beauty of their

skin-dressing. The art of tanning is unknown to them, so far as

civilized habits and arts have not been taught them; yet the art of

dressing skins, so far as we have it in the civilized world, has been

(like hundreds of other ornamental and useful customs which we are

practising), borrowed from the savage; without our ever stopping to

enquire from whence they come, or by whom invented.

The usual mode of dressing the buffalo, and other skins, is by

immersing them for a few days under a lye from ashes and water, until

the hair can be removed; when they are strained upon a frame or upon

the ground, with stakes or pins driven through the edges into the

earth; where they remain for several days, with the brains of the

buffalo or elk spread upon and over them; and at last finished by

“graining,” as it is termed, by the squaws; who use a sharpened bone,

the shoulder-blade or other large bone of the animal, sharpened at the

edge, somewhat like an adze; with the edge of which they scrape the

fleshy side of the skin; bearing on it with the weight of their bodies,

thereby drying and softening the skin, and fitting it for use.

The greater part of these skins, however, go through still another

operation afterwards, which gives them a greater value, and renders

them much more serviceable—that is, the process of smoking. For this,

a small hole is dug in the ground, and a fire is built in it with

rotten wood, which will produce a great quantity of smoke without

much blaze; and several small poles of the proper length stuck in the

ground around it, and drawn and fastened together at the top, around

which a skin is wrapped in form of a tent, and generally sewed together

at the edges to secure the smoke within it; within this the skins

to be smoked are placed, and in this condition the tent will stand a

day or so, enclosing the heated smoke; and by some chemical process

or other, which I do not understand, the skins thus acquire a quality

which enables them, after being ever so many times wet, to dry soft

and pliant as they were before, which secret I have never yet seen

practiced in my own country; and for the lack of which, all of our

dressed skins when once wet, are, I think, chiefly ruined.

An Indian’s dress of deer skins, which is wet a hundred times upon his

back, dries soft; and his lodge also, which stands in the rains, and

even through the severity of winter, is taken down as soft and as clean

as when it was first put up.

A Crow is known wherever he is met by his beautiful white dress, and

his tall and elegant figure; the greater part of the men being six

feet high. The Blackfeet on the other hand, are more of the Herculean

make—about middling stature, with broad shoulders, and great expansion

of chest; and the skins of which their dresses are made, are chiefly

dressed black, or of a dark brown colour; from which circumstance, in

all probability, they having black leggings or moccasins, have got the

name of Blackfeet.

The Crows are very handsome and gentlemanly Indians in their personal

appearance: and have been always reputed, since the first acquaintance

made with them, very civil and friendly.

These people to be sure, have in some instances plundered and robbed

trappers and travellers in their country; and for that I have sometimes

heard them called rascals and thieves, and rogues of the first order,

&c.; yet they do not consider themselves such; for thieving in their

estimation is a high crime, and considered the most disgraceful act

that a man can possibly do. They call this _capturing_, where they

sometimes run off a Trader’s horses, and make their boast of it;

considering it a kind of retaliation or summary justice, which they

think it right and honourable that they should administer. And why

not? for the unlicensed trespass committed through their country from

one end to the other, by mercenary white men, who are destroying the

game, and catching all the beaver and other rich and valuable furs

out of their country, without paying them an equivalent, or, in fact,

anything at all, for it; and this too, when they have been warned time

and again of the danger they would be in, if they longer persisted in

the practice. Reader, I look upon the Indian as the most honest and

honourable race of people that I ever lived amongst in my life; and in

their native state, I pledge you my honour they are the last of all

the human family to pilfer or to steal, if you trust to their honour;

and for this never-ending and boundless system of theft and plunder,

and debauchery, that is practiced off upon these rightful owners of

the soil, by acquisitive white men, I consider the infliction, or

retaliation, by driving off and appropriating a few horses, but a

lenient punishment, which those persons at least should expect; and

which, in fact, none but a very honourable and high-minded people

could inflict, instead of a much severer one; which they could easily

practice upon the few white men in their country, without rendering

themselves amenable to any law.

Mr. M‘Kenzie has repeatedly told me, within the four last weeks, while

in conversation relative to the Crows, that they were friendly and

honourable in their dealing with the whites, and that he considered

them the finest Indians of his acquaintance.

I recollect whilst in St. Louis, and other places at the East, to have

heard it often said, that the Crows were a rascally and thieving set of

vagabonds, highway robbers, &c. &c.; and I have been told since, that

this information has become current in the world, from the fact that

they made some depredations upon the camp of Messrs. Crooks and Hunt of

the Fur Company; and drove off a number of their horses, when they were

passing through the Crow country, on their way to Astoria. This was no

doubt true; and equally true, would these very Indians tell us, was the

fact, that they had a good and sufficient reason for it.

These gentlemen, with their party, were crossing the Crow country

with a large stock of goods, of guns, and ammunition, of knives, and

spears, arrowheads, &c.; and stopped for some time and encamped in the

midst of the Crow country (and I think wintered there), when the Crows

assembled in large numbers about them, and treated them in a kind and

friendly manner; and at the same time proposed to trade with them for

guns and ammunition, &c. (according to these gentlemen’s own account,)

of which they were in great want, and for which they brought a great

many horses, and offered them repeatedly in trade; which they refused

to take, persisting in their determination of carrying their goods

to their destined place, across the mountains; thereby disappointing

these Indians, by denying them the arms and weapons which were in

their possession, whilst they were living upon them, and exhausting

the game and food of their country. No doubt, these gentlemen told the

Crows, that these goods were going to Astoria, of which place they knew

nothing; and of course, it was enough for them that they were going to

take them farther west; which they would at once suppose was to the

Blackfeet, their principal enemy, having eight or ten warriors to one

of the Crows; where they supposed the white men could get a greater

price for their weapons, and arm their enemies in such a way as would

enable them to turn upon the Crows, and cut them to pieces without

mercy. Under these circumstances, the Crows rode off, and to show their

indignation, drove off some of the Company’s horses, for which they

have ever since been denominated a band of thieves and highway robbers.

It is a custom, and a part of the system of jurisprudence amongst all

savages, to revenge upon the person or persons who give the offence,

if they can; and if not, to let that punishment fall upon the head of

the first white man who comes in their way, provided the offender was a

white man. And I would not be surprised, therefore, if I get robbed of

my horse; and you too, readers, if you go into that country, for that

very (supposed) offence.

I have conversed often and much with Messrs. Sublette and Campbell,

two gentlemen of the highest respectability, who have traded with the

Crows for several years, and they tell me they are one of the most

honourable, honest, and high-minded races of people on earth; and with

Mr. Tullock, also, a man of the strictest veracity, who is now here

with a party of them; and, he says, they never steal,—have a high

sense of honour,—and being fearless and proud, are quick to punish or

retaliate.

So much for the character of the Crows for the present, a subject which

I shall assuredly take up again, when I shall have seen more of them

myself.

LETTER—No. 8.

Illustrations of the manners, customs, & condition of the North American Indians, Vol. 1 (of 2) With letters and notes, written during eight years of travel and adventure among the wildest and most remarkable tribes now existing · 第 10 / 38 题