[Illustration: Decoration]
TO enter _fully_ into the various regulations and forms that the
“_trade_” have, from time to time, instituted and acted upon, would of
itself fill a volume; all that can be done then in this small work will
be to give the best possible outline of such matters as are most likely
to interest those who may wish for information on the subject. The most
important laws of this trade are these:—
_First_—No man shall work as a _maker_ or _finisher_, unless he has
served an apprenticeship of seven years to what is called a “_fair
master_.”
_Second_—To be a fair master, and entitled, according to the rules of
the trade, to take an apprentice, he must have manufactured his _own
Hats_, seven years prior to the _taking_, or otherwise have served a
fair seven years’ apprenticeship himself to the trade.
_Third_—Whether there be one, two, or more in a manufacturing firm, that
firm are not to have more than two apprentices at one time.
_Fourth_—There are a number of masters who do not manufacture their own
“_stuff_,” but are employed by “_Great Houses_,” who, although they have
a right, by law, to take apprentices, yet those apprentices, by reason
of their masters not working their _own materials_, are never admitted
to stand by the side of _fair men_, on which account they must ever
continue _foul_, and debarred of the usual privileges, or submit to a
_second_ apprenticeship. This is a case that frequently occurs; indeed
it is no uncommon thing to see a man with a wife and half a dozen
children, himself near thirty years old, serving a second apprenticeship
for a fair time; the hardship of this must be admitted, inasmuch as it
is punishing a man for a fault he never committed.
_Fifth_—A _foul man_ is one that has not served his apprenticeship
agreeably to the rule of the trade, or has been guilty of some act
detrimental to the _supposed_ interests of the journeymen in general.
These are called “KNOBSTICKS.”
_Sixth_—A fair man has the privilege of what is called “_turns upon
tramp_,” that is, if he cannot obtain work in the town where he resides,
or has an inclination to _travel_, he may journey or _tramp_ to the
next; should any of the _fraternity_ be there, and he wishes to get
“_shopped_” he is “_asked for_” by one in that factory, (no man being
allowed to ask for himself), if unsuccessful, there are two night’s
lodging for him, two pots of strong beer, bread and cheese, and a
shilling or two to forward him to the next town. The _money turn_ in
London is five shillings, but no man is entitled to a _second_ turn in
one place, until after the expiration of six months from his receiving
the first.
_Seventh_—If a journeyman has, by his own act, become _foul_, nothing
can absolve him but submitting to a _fine_, and this is measured
according to the offence, which, in some _heinous_ cases, such as
“_creeping_” into favour with the master, or going to work when all the
rest have struck for wages, is as high as ten guineas.
There are three distinct courts for the examination and punishment of
offenders. The _first_, or High Court of CONGRESS, is a sort of general
assembly, composed of either Makers or Finishers, just as their separate
interests may be concerned; but on all joint questions these parties
form a _junction_. In this court matters of importance only are
discussed; as, for instance, the _advance of prices_, the abrogation of
old laws, and the making of new ones, under the _operation_ of which, it
sometimes happens that both men and masters, as well as the law of the
land, are alike the victims. The _fines_ levied in this court are
appropriated to special and “STRIKING” purposes, often tending to
produce a “COMBINATION” of interesting effects. The masters too are not
wholly exempt from these pretty little combinations, which, however, do
not always realize or carry their intended _point_; this is owing (it is
thought) to the vast affection journeymen bear towards their employers;
indeed so much so, that they cannot bear the _latter_ should “LOWER”
themselves.
There is a court below this, which is formed by taking one or two men
from the seven _nearest_ shops. Their sitting, if not _public_, is sure
to be in a _public-house_, president, _Sir John Barleycorn_. The matters
chiefly brought here are those that relate to the misconduct of
journeymen towards each other in the same factory, and which cannot be
settled where they originated. This is called “DOZENING,” and their
power of FINE extends to two guineas, which is drank in good old stout
by the whole seven shops; but as all _dry_ subjects are prohibited in
this tribune, the extent of fine greatly depends on the state of the
weather; so that if it be a sultry summer’s day, the punishment of an
offender is in proportion to the _sun’s heat_.
The third and lowest _court_ is an assembly of shop-mates only, this
meeting is called a “GARRET MATCH,” and may be demanded for the
punishment of an aggressor, by any aggrieved man in a factory. Power of
fine from two to ten shillings.
I have before stated that there are in this trade _foul_ men; in point
of number they constitute about one-sixth part of the whole; but their
earnings, or price of labour is the same as the fair trade.
A journeyman finisher in full work will earn, on an average, from three
to four pounds a-week; while, on the contrary, a maker cannot get more
than _fifty shillings_. This is a subject of much jealousy and
discontent; nor is it likely to be otherwise, unless the latter can
raise himself to an equality with the former; against this there are
many obstacles, one of which is, the _increasing_ foul trade, who would
continue working, even though the fair men had “_struck_.” Another is,
that they could never obtain the co-operation of the finishers, who,
being amply paid themselves, think it best to leave well alone.
These are the _principal regulations_ which govern journeymen hatters,
whether they have a good or a bad tendency is questionable; there are
many in the _trade_ who decidedly condemn them, giving as their reasons,
that they encourage idleness, tippling, and endless squabbles.
_Idleness_—inasmuch as when men are summoned to discuss the most
trifling matters, even though the meeting be at five o’clock in the
morning, they seldom feel _disposed_ to return to their work that day.
_Tippling_—for the reason that, as _fines_ are mostly spent in _drink_,
the conviction of a supposed offender is generally _thirsted_ after; but
as the quantum levied seldom suffices, all further supplies for the
remainder of the day are met by individual subscription. In these cases
there is no show of niggardliness, as every succeeding gallon of the
“_sparkling entire_,” is but an _internal_ messenger, bearing the glad
tidings of another to come. _Squabbles_, because it is natural, when the
_desire_ for a thing is once created, and the gratification of that
desire (where nothing of criminality attaches) can be indulged, by
having recourse to a little contrivance, that the opportunity of so
doing should be more frequently _made_, than suffered to approach
accidentally; which will account for the _trifling magnitudes_ that are
allowed to agitate shops and factories in general. The arguments in
_favour_ of these laws are, that without them, apprentices would be
careless in serving out their _time_, the trade over-run with bad
workmen, hats greatly deteriorated in the manufacture, the excellence of
which is their chief recommendation in a foreign market, and the surest
guarantee of the master’s profits at home.
Having given the _contending_ opinions, in reference to the laws of this
trade, I shall say a word or two concerning the shape, and manner of
placing a hat on the head.
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