WITH PREFATORY REMARKS, &c. &c.
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TURKS are said to assign as a reason for not wearing Hats, that they are
put together by _witchcraft_. There is certainly a great deal of
ingenuity in the practice, and some _effects_ produced whose _causes_
are as yet unexplained: but, with all due deference to these _turban
gentlemen_, it is presumed that they have objections beyond what is
above stated, some of which are as follows:—_First_, their country is
destitute of the most essential material—FUR. _Second_, the climate
being extremely sultry, stoves, irons, and scalding water are not likely
to become favourites. _Thirdly_, being compelled by their religion to
keep their heads _close shaved_, a Hat, above all human inventions,
would be the most ridiculous covering _they_ could adopt.
There are many opinions as to the time Hats were first invented, and,
very probably, all equally erroneous. Some carry the date as far back as
the foundation of Christianity, attributing the merit to St. Luke, of
whom it is said, that he, having tender feet, put a layer of hair or fur
between them and his sandals, in which situation friction and moisture
caused such an interweaving of particles, that the whole became strongly
united, or (technically called) FELTED. Whether the story, as applied to
Luke, be true or false, is immaterial; but that such did happen with
some one, is very likely; nor is it at all unlikely, but that an
occurrence of this kind did really give the first idea of Hat-making.
Having remarked thus much, I shall next proceed to state, what is not
the less true than surprising, which is, that of the various branches of
manufacture which this country is so highly distinguished for, none are
less understood than Hat-making; nay, there is not one person in fifty
who, if he were asked the question, could tell whether a Hat was or was
not a _woven_ substance; nor is there one in 500 but what suppose that
the _skin_ of a hare or rabbit is worked with the fur _attached_ to it,
as in the natural state; and, to form a correct judgment of the external
material, when manufactured, whether it be hair, wool, or beaver,
although many pretend, none are really competent but those _experienced_
in the _trade_.
To show the absurd notions some entertain on this matter, I state as a
fact, that I do not know a manufacturer or seller in the trade but what
has been applied to, by some one or other, to have a _Beaver_ Hat made
from a _hare_’s skin. Nay, I remember once offending a very good
customer, and a man not wanting for sense either, by an involuntary
burst of laughter, on his presenting the skin of a _French lap-dog_ for
the very same purpose.
It is no uncommon thing for persons who are on pretty good terms with
their capabilities to give opinions as to the _merits_ or _demerits_ of
a Hat; which opinions are as opposite to the true state of the case as
the sun’s rays to a state of darkness. I shall give an instance,
although a trifling one, of a very common error among persons who
_suppose_ themselves to have a knowledge of the subject, which is this,
if the picker has not a very good eye, some of the larger hairs will be
left in the Hat, and consequently the most _visible_; these are directly
termed “_grey hairs_,” when the truth is, that they are the _blackest_
in the whole composition; but being thicker than the general mass, they
receive a greater portion of _light_, which is mistaken for a grey
colour: an easy method of proving the fact is to pull one of these _grey
hairs_ from the Hat, and place it on a piece of white paper, the
_contrast_ will decide the question.
Again, whatever produces a glutinization of the NAP, is said to be the
effect of the stiffening; this is not true in every case, for it is
frequently owing to improper management in placing the Hat, when wet,
before a large fire, which should never be done; the better way is, if
very wet, to hang it up without brushing or wiping, and when dry it is
easily put to rights, by gently passing over a clothes brush: if only
slightly wet, wipe it with a handkerchief, and, when dry, it will brush
clean. But the great fault with most persons is to put on their Hats,
day after day, in the same _dirty state_ as when taken off at night;
from which it is natural to infer, that there must be a vast
accumulation of dirt; it is this dirt, when exposed to the rain, that
forms a sort of cement, or paste, having all the appearance of what is
commonly called “_gum_.”
Another proof of erroneous judgment—Profuse perspiration of the head is
what many are subject to; by reason of which, from the frequency of
wearing, and the _porosity_ of the Hat, there is a continual absorption
of moisture going on until it becomes completely _saturated_,
particularly in front, the consequence is, that the nap lies buried in a
greasy matter, which matter is also, but very inappropriately termed
_gum_ or _stiffening_, when in point of fact it is _neither_, for the
very same effect would, under the like circumstances, be produced, and
in much less time, if the Hat were not stiffened at all. The best remedy
for this is a piece of thin flannel under the leather, and that
frequently changed.
There is nothing so detrimental to a Hat as a severe exposure to rain on
the first, second, or even third time of wearing; for this reason, the
materials wherewith it is composed are in a manner quite _green_, and
require _seasoning_; to effect which it should be frequently put on in
dry weather. I have always found that a Hat, constantly worn for five or
six weeks _without being wet_, underwent every sort of hardship
afterwards with little or no injury, retaining at the same time its
beauty—form—and wearing _three times longer_ than it otherwise would
have done. It may be asked, why not, to prevent accidents, render the
Hat _water-proof_? that is, impervious to the action of either
atmosphere or rain. The thing is easy enough, I admit; but where there
is a choice of only _two evils_, it is always best to select the
_least_. We all know (or should know) that if a man were to enclose
himself, arms, legs, and body, in what is called an _oil-skin dress_,
and that drawn close round the neck, the whole tightly fitted to every
part of his person as a Hat is to the head, the most unpleasant
consequences would ensue; the cause why is obviously this, the
exhalations of the body, particularly in a state of exertion, would when
so _enclosed_, be either prevented from flying off, as nature requires,
or otherwise checked altogether; precisely so with the head if the
porosity of the Hat was destroyed, which it must be to resist
effectually the action of water. This deduction must be so clear and
self-evident that further reasoning is unnecessary. Another great
objection against water-proof _Hats_ is, that the ingredients made use
of for such purposes, when exposed to the sun’s heat, are so acted upon
as to cause a _decomposition_ of the colour, and nine times in ten, the
Hat, before it is half worn out, becomes any thing but what it was meant
to be.
It is astonishing to hear the number of qualifications a Hat is _said_
to have, and each as opposite to the other as it is possible for any two
things to be; some, for instance, maintain that it cannot be good unless
it is _light_, others again will decidedly condemn it for _being so_,
insisting that the chief recommendation is its being firm and _stout_.
All that is requisite to be observed on this, is that _weight_ has no
more to do with the _quality_ of a Hat, than the situation of prime
minister has to do with the cramming of turkies. A very inferior Hat may
be made _equally light_ with the most superior, and in both cases the
cost of manufacture will be less than if they were made _stout_.
The length of the beaver too is another point on which the difference of
opinion is often experienced; many are for very _short naps_, declaring
all others to be outrageously vulgar; but the majority of wearers seem
best pleased with _long_ naps, which always _take_ and _retain_ the best
_black_, while, on the contrary those that are very short never do. A
medium between the two is the most preferable.
Having stated thus much, I shall next proceed to explain in what way a
fine Hat is _made_, describing as accurately as possible the various
processes it undergoes, as also the materials with which it is composed,
the proportions of each as well as the quantity of work a man is capable
of doing, whether _maker_ or _finisher_, in a week, the amount of wages,
together with some of the curious regulations, by-laws, &c. &c. &c.
In the first place, as I shall have occasion to mention a few of the
_implements_ by name, a short description of them may not be amiss.
There is the BOW, which in form is not unlike what is used for playing
on a _double bass_, but in length and thickness is equal to a
constable’s staff; there is a bridge at each end, from one to the other
of which is tightly strung a stout line of _catgut_.
The HURDLE is situate in what is called the bow garret, and is a sort of
_table_, on which the _fur_ is bowed, or mixed, having the farther end
and sides enclosed to prevent the material from being blown away.
The BATTERY is somewhat like the hopper of a mill, in this is contained
the hot _liquor_, and is mostly constructed for eight men, _round_ which
they stand when _making_; the lower part is lead, the upper or working
part mahogany. All batteries are formed into divisions called PLANKS,
one of which is allotted to each man. There are many other little things
used by makers, but these three are all that deserve particular notice.
The first thing a maker looks for in the morning is the FUR, or raw
material, which is furnished to him by _weight_; the quantity being more
or less, according to the substance of the Hat required, and is in _two_
parcels, one of which contains the BEAVER, or napping; the other the
BODY (a proportionate scale of both will be seen hereafter). Thus
provided he takes it to the BOW GARRET; the materials for the body are
first placed on the hurdle, and the bow being hung at the centre for
support, is held in the left hand horizontally, so that the catgut may
come in contact with the fur; in the _right_ hand is placed a small
piece of stick, with a _nut_ at the end, and in this position the work
begins after the following manner. The _catgut_ of the bow (being first
placed in the midst of the _fur_) is pulled or struck with the knotted
stick, which produces, from a quick repetition of the stroke, a
continued _vibration_, this _vibration_ it is that causes a separation
or _flitting_ of the fur, at the same time mixing and cleansing it. This
operation is continued until such ends are fully attained. It is next
divided into _halves_, one of which is laid aside, and the other again
bowed over. In this second operation the workman contrives, partly by
bowing, and partly by a slight _wicker frame_, to bring the material
into an oblong form, and equal in size to a large sheet of cartridge
paper; this is called a BAT, and when done it is gently _pressed down_
by the _wicker_, after which a damp linen cloth is laid all over, and on
this again is placed a thick piece of dry HORSE HIDE; the workman now
begins to press hard on the hide for about five minutes; in the doing
this the fur adheres close to the damp cloth, into which it is _doubled
up_, and once more undergoes the pressure of the hand. Under this
operation (which is called BASONING) the _bat_ becomes _consolidated_,
and may be thrown, when taken out of the cloth, from one end of the
garret to the other without injury. The second half is next bowed,
formed into a _bat_, and _basoned_ as the first. This half _remains_ on
_the hurdle_, and a piece of _paper_, somewhat conical, is placed on it,
_over which_, and agreeable to the shape, the sides of the bat are
_doubled_. Here then is formed one half of the _body_, this is laid
aside, and the first bat is then put flat on the hurdle _on which_ the
one previously doubled is placed with its open part downwards; the lower
bat being transversely doubled over the top hat, forms a sort of
conical, or harlequin’s cap; in this state it is once more put into the
damp cloth, where it receives another hardening for the purpose of
uniting or _knitting_ both _bats_ together; after this it is folded into
the compass of _two hands_, ready for the _plank_. The next thing is the
_beaver_, or covering, which is bowed in _form_ to correspond with the
_body_, but has nothing to do with it in this stage.
Matters being completed thus far, this is called the _first process of
Hat-making_. The second commences as follows:—The workman having gone
from the bow garret to the making shop, takes his stand at the battery,
under which is a FIRE, for the purpose of heating the liquor;[1] into
this hot liquor the _body_ is quickly _immersed_, where it remains till
soaked through; it is afterwards laid on the _plank_ to _drain_ and
_cool_; this done, it is unfolded, gently rolled, turned at short
intervals in every direction, to prevent the sides uniting together; and
as the _liquor_ becomes _cold_ and rolled out, it is continually
supplied with _hot_ and fresh, by the sprinkling of a _brush_, which is
dipped in the _kettle_ for that purpose; under this operation, assisted
by the astringency of the _vitriol_, the body _shrinks_, and begins to
assume a tough _substance_. When it has shrunk to a _certain size_ (say
three-fifths, if to be _double_ covered), it is laid flat on the
_plank_, and the _first_ coat of _beaver_, as it comes from the _bow_,
is laid quite over it; the _brush_ is now dipped into the hot liquor,
the contents of which is sprinkled all over the _beaver_, directly
afterwards it is gently _patted down_ with the hot brush; here the body
is put into a _hair-cloth_, rolled in hot liquor, turned inside out,
rolled again until the _beaver_, is completely worked into the body;
when this is effected, it is in a fit state to receive the _second_
covering, which is put on as the first, the _working_, _turning_,
_patting_, and _rolling_ still continuing until it is reduced to a fit
dimension, the _beaver_ quite _clean_, and all together assuming a
closely _felted_, fine, solid piece of workmanship; after which it is
immediately _blocked_ in this same liquor, to the size wanted, and put
into a _stove_ to dry, from whence it is taken, and with a small fine
card the beaver is gently raised; without this, one half would lie
buried, and the beauty lost.—Here then is the complete PROCESS OF
HAT-MAKING.
Footnote 1:
The liquor, which is always kept up to _scalding_ heat, is nothing
more than clean soft water, with a wine glass of _vitriol_, and a
small quantity of beer dregs thrown in. The first is to _shrink_ the
body of the Hat in working; the other to destroy the _pernicious_
effect of the vitriol.
It is next sent to the DYER from whom it passes to the FINISHER, who,
after stiffening, blocking, and _half_ finishing, sends it to be picked,
which is performed by a woman, whose place it is to pull out the _kemps_
or thick hairs, without injuring the beaver,[2] although that is not
always accomplished. From the _picker_ it returns to the finisher who,
by the IRON and velvet cushion, gives it those highly brilliant and
admired beauties that an English Hat is so pre-eminently distinguished
for. The shaper next takes it in hand, who is guided in his operations
by the _fancy_ of the wearer, if bespoke, which is sometimes a little
_whimsical_. After shaping, it goes to the _trimmer_, from whom it is
returned to the TIPPER OFF; he gets it ready for wearing; it is then
sent to its destination, when the master, if he is _fortunate_, puts the
amount into his pocket.[3]
Footnote 2:
It has frequently been asked, why not make a Hat with _beaver only_,
the answer is, there is not sufficient _stamina_ or strength in it to
become a sound _felted_ substance. It would be worse than building a
_brick_ house without _mortar_ or some sort of cement, to bind the
whole together.
Footnote 3:
Some have payment _before_-hand, which brings out the following old,
but very foolish saying, “there are but _two_ bad paymasters, _he_ who
pays beforehand, and _he_ who _never_ pays.” How the latter can be a
_paymaster_ requires some little ingenuity to determine.
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