CHAPTER VIII

TRAVELLING IN THE WILDS

After seeing the strange conveyances and modes of travel in Europe

and in the civilised countries of Asia, it will be interesting

to leave the beaten tracks behind us altogether for a time. We

will go beyond the high roads and the railways, and find out how

people make journeys in the great wildernesses of the world, where

travellers must be prepared to undergo discomforts and hardships,

to meet with dangers, and, very often, to carry their lives in

their hands.

If we open our atlases and turn to the maps of Africa, America,

Asia, and Australia, we shall find that in each continent there are

blank spaces. Sometimes these are called deserts or forests, but

often we can only guess at the character of the country from the

fact of there being no rivers marked and very few names of towns

and cities.

The most famous of all deserts is the Great Sahara, which extends

for thousands of miles across the north of Africa. Most people

picture it as a huge sandy plain, where there is no water and

no sign of life or vegetation; but, in reality, although there

are districts where the shifting sandhills stretch away as far as

the eye can see, a vast part of the Sahara consists of a stony

tableland covered with a scanty growth of low, thorny bushes.

In the deserts there are, moreover, many fertile spots looking

like exquisite little green islands set in the midst of a glowing,

yellow sea. They are called oases, and are found where there are

wells or pools of water. Arabs live in these places, cultivating

the land and building mud-houses, while other tribes spend their

time in wandering about the desert, seeking food for their animals

and trading in the scattered towns and villages. These wanderers,

or nomads, with their camels, horses, and herds of sheep and goats,

may be seen slowly moving across the great sunburnt plain and

pitching their brown tents at night among the sand-dunes.

[Illustration: MIXED TRANSPORT IN NIGERIA.]

The nomadic Arabs travel in large parties called caravans, for

there are brigands in the Sahara who would rob and murder lonely

wayfarers. The men in the caravan often ride, and their horses

are considered the finest in the whole world. The Arabs prize

these horses highly and treat them well, never allowing them to be

teased by the children, and, at the end of a long day's journey,

giving them their meal of milk and dates before they eat anything

themselves.

Horses, however, are only used for riding, and all the hard work is

done by the camels, "the ships of the desert," as they are called.

It is a strange sight to see a great caravan crossing the desert,

sometimes as many as a thousand camels marching along in single

file, each with a heavy load on his back.

Camels are strange animals, for although they are strong and have

wonderful powers of endurance, they are surly, intractable, and

even more obstinate than mules. Occasionally a camel will consider

that he is overloaded, and lying down will snarl at his driver and

refuse to move. Blows and commands are useless in such a case,

but if the driver pretends to remove something from the burden

the animal is often completely deceived, and thinking that he has

outwitted his master and gained a victory, will rise to his feet

and start off contentedly on the journey.

One of the greatest dangers of desert travel is lack of water, for

wells are very few and far apart. Camels are particularly suited

to these conditions, as they can live for several days without

drinking, and when no water is forthcoming, will plod patiently

on and on, until their strength is exhausted and they fall down

beneath their heavy loads.

[Illustration: CAMEL WITH BRIDAL BOWER.]

It will be noticed in a caravan that some of the camels carry

extraordinary fan-shaped palanquins on their backs. These contain

the Arab ladies, whose religion obliges them to be veiled, and who

can thus travel securely screened from sight. In the deserts of

Asia the women ride in a much more airy and comfortable fashion,

being provided with cushioned panniers slung on either side of the

camel's back and sheltered by a light awning. On the occasion of a

wedding in the Nile Delta district, the bride is carried on a camel

in a curious erection shaped like a Red Indian wigwam and decorated

with a large tuft of palm-leaves.

From the deserts we go to the great tropical forests, and there,

although there is plenty of water and shelter from the fierce rays

of the sun, travellers have to encounter new difficulties, new

hardships, and new dangers.

[Illustration: CARRIERS IN THE FOREST.]

Those of us who have seen only woods in our own islands can hardly

imagine what one of the great forests of Central Africa, America,

or Asia is like, with its huge trees, strange plants, and hot,

steamy atmosphere, dank with the smell of rotting vegetation and

stagnant water, or heavy with the overpowering fragrance of some

tropical blossom. It is almost dark, for the foliage is dense, and

the trees are, moreover, hung with matted curtains of creepers,

while below is a tangled undergrowth, so tall and thick that

pathways have to be cut through it inch by inch.

[Illustration: PALANQUIN FOR ARAB WOMEN.]

The travellers must needs walk single file through these narrow

tracks, and they must be always armed and on their guard against

the dangerous wild animals that live in those weird, gloomy

jungles. Leopards, fierce gorillas, and rhinoceros, all have their

homes in those dark thickets, and there are besides great herds

of elephants that if alarmed will charge through the forest and

trample the intruders underfoot.

In addition to these perils the natives are often unfriendly, and

there have been many instances of cruelty and murder.

In these districts it is, of course, impossible to use wagons or

any large vehicles, and the climate is unhealthy for horses and

cattle. Negroes, therefore, act as carriers and march along the

narrow paths with heavy loads on their heads. These natives are

very strong, and may be seen carrying large bales, boxes, and even

bicycles through the jungle.

The Europeans of the party either walk too, or are carried in

hammocks slung on poles. An awning is fixed over the hammock, and

the occupant can lie down comfortably while he is borne along by

two or more negro porters. Wounded men or those ill with fever are

often taken for many miles in this fashion, and in Nigeria special

hospital hammocks are provided for this purpose on which the

familiar red cross may be seen.

[Illustration: MONO-RAIL WORKED BY NATIVES.]

The natives of these tropical forests either carry their

merchandise and other burdens themselves, or have light

conveyances suited to the narrow tracks that are the only roads of

the country. The Sobo negroes of West Africa have a very ingenious

arrangement, and often three or four of them may be seen walking in

single file and carrying a long pole on their shoulders. From this

pole are hung jars, bundles, and baskets of fruit and vegetables.

In another district a still more curious device is used. This is

a single railway line running between two towns, on which light

trucks can travel. These trucks have two wheels each, one behind

the other, and to each truck is fastened a pole which projects on

the left-hand side. Negroes walk beside the line, holding the poles

and thus driving the cars along.

In regions where the forest is less dense and the climate more

dry and healthy, animals can be used, and sometimes strange teams

are seen--camels, donkeys, and oxen being all pressed into the

transport service.

How the World Travels · 第 8 / 12 章