Return to India--Attached to Foreign Office--Imperial assemblage at
Delhi--Almorah--Appointed to Manipur--Journey to Shillong--Cherra
Poojee--Colonel McCulloch--Question of ceremony.
Malaria, and all the evils that follow in its train, are more easily
acquired than got rid of. Possibly two years in England, including
four visits to Carlsbad, which high medical authorities seem to
consider, and very justly, a sine qua non, might give a man a good
chance if he never again visited a malarious district, otherwise,
my own experience shows me that two years are nothing. Every time I
have gone before a Medical Board in London, preparatory to returning
to duty, their last charge has been, "You must never again go to
a malarious district!" Medical Boards propose, and Government and
circumstances dispose.
I stayed at home in a high and healthy part of the Midlands, and left
for India again in October. I arrived in Calcutta in November, where
I again suffered from malarious symptoms; but I soon got better,
and was attached to the Foreign Office, at my own request, extra
attaches being required for the Imperial Assemblage.
I had the good fortune to see the whole of that gorgeous pageant,
the like of which this generation will probably never witness again,
under the most favourable auspices; and though I had on an average
eighteen hours' work out of each twenty-four, I was well repaid by
being able to take part in it. I met many old friends, and also became
acquainted with Salar Jung, Maharajahs Scindiah and Holkar, Sir Dinkur
Rao, Madhava Rao, and several other now historical celebrities. The
Viceroy's reception-tent at night was a grand sight, filled with
gallant soldiers, European and native, and great statesmen.
Among the new arrivals was the Khan of Khelat, an intelligent but
savage-looking chief, with eyes all about him. I was being constantly
deputed to carry polite messages from the Viceroy to different chiefs
and celebrities and to meet them at the railway stations. Among those
whom I met were the envoy from the Chief of Muscat, also the Siamese
Ambassador and his suite, a highly intelligent and sensible set of
men. I remember well the rough-and-ready way in which the younger
Siamese officers looked after their luggage and effects. They were
provided with a handsome set of tents, and all dined together at
one table in European fashion, in the most civilised way, with the
British officer attached to them.
I stayed at Delhi till the assemblage broke up, and after a few days
in Calcutta with the Foreign Office, went to Bombay to meet my wife,
who, with our two boys, arrived there on February 2nd. We at once set
out on our way to Almorah in the Himalayas, where I was permitted to
reside for a year and compile Foreign Office records.
We were delayed at Moradabad for a few days, as the passes were covered
with snow. At last we started, and found Nynee Tal deep in snow, and
the lake frozen. Next day we marched across the track of an avalanche,
and the following afternoon reached the Almorah Dak Bungalow, or
rest house. The ground was covered with snow, and the cold intense,
the bungalow draughty and very uncomfortable. After a few days we got
into a house, which Sir H. Ramsey, who was then out on duty in the
district, had kindly taken for us, and I dived deep into my records,
consisting of early documents relating to Assam and the Singpho tribes.
As the weather grew warmer, Almorah became very pleasant. I pined
for active work, but our stay here gave my wife experience in the
mode of life in India, for which she was afterwards very thankful,
and she obtained hints on housekeeping subjects from other ladies,
which were a help to her later on. Life in the Naga Hills was of
course very different to what it is in more civilised parts of India.
The Foreign Office had my name down in their list for an appointment. I
could have gone to Manipur when I landed in Calcutta, but was not
well enough. In July, I had a telegram to say that Lieut. Durand,
who had lately been appointed, was ill, and must be relieved. Would
I go? I at once replied in the affirmative, and off we started on
July 16th. It was very short notice, but changing quarters at short
notice is part of an Indian official's life, and the prospect of
work was delightful to me. We had a trying journey down to Calcutta,
as the rains had not begun in the North-West Provinces, and the heat
was tremendous. However, we arrived none the worse for it, and stayed
for a day or two with our kind friends, the Medlicotts.
As Colonel Keatinge, the Chief Commissioner of Assam, wished to see
me before I went to Manipur, I was ordered to join at Shillong, so
we proceeded by rail to Goalundo, one night's journey from Calcutta,
and thence by river steamer to Chuttuk, on the Soorma, where we
changed into country boats, and proceeded up a smaller river and
across great jheels or shallow lakes, often passing for miles through
high grass growing in the water, which hid us from everything, till we
reached a place called Bholagunj, situated on a river rapidly becoming
narrower, where we again changed, this time into small canoes, the
only conveyances that could take us up the rapids, with which the
river abounds.
From Chuttuk we had come through a country mostly covered with grass
jungle, twelve to fifteen feet in height; now we passed through
forest scenery, very lovely fine trees, with festoons of creepers
and flowers overhanging the stream. At last we reached Thuria Ghat,
where the ascent of the hills commenced, and there we halted for the
night in the Dak Bungalow, or rest house. Most places situated as
Thuria Ghat is, would be deadly on account of malaria, but it seems
to be an exception, and, as far as I have seen, healthy.
Knowing the servant difficulties in the province of Assam, we had
brought servants with us from Almorah, men who had implored us to
take them. When I consented to do so I voluntarily raised their wages
from fifty to eighty per cent. above what they had been receiving,
but with the exception of a Dhobee (washerman), and a bearer (a
compound of housemaid and valet), they all became corrupted by the
other servants they met at Shillong, and who spoke of Manipur in
very disparaging terms, so before going farther I let them go, as
they demanded an enormous increase of wages.
The Dhobee Nunnoo, and the bearer Horna, stuck to me to the very last,
and proved admirable servants. It was fortunate that we had servants,
as there were none at Thuria Ghat rest house; as it was, we managed
very well, and were prepared to march in the morning before the coolies
were ready to take up our luggage. We had a tiring march up the hill
to Cherra Poojee; my wife and the children were in baskets on men's
backs, but I was on foot and felt the march in the intense heat to be
very fatiguing, though we halted to rest half-way. However, when we
reached the plateau of Cherra Poojee, 4000 feet above Thuria Ghat,
the cool air speedily set me right, and we all enjoyed the scenery,
hills, plains, waterfalls in abundance, deep valleys, and the lowlands
of Sylhet, covered with water, as far as the eye could reach. We had
a comfortable bungalow to rest in, and a cool night at last.
Next day we marched to Moflung, 6000 feet above the sea, and then to
Shillong, where for the next few days we were hospitably entertained by
the Chief Commissioner, Colonel (now General) Keatinge, V.C., C.S.I.,
who kindly sent a carriage to meet us on the road. As Colonel Keatinge
wished me to remain at Shillong for a time, and meet Mr. Carnegy,
political officer in the Naga Hills, who was coming there later on,
I arranged to stay, and took a house; so we settled down comfortably
till the early part of October--a very pleasant arrangement for us
instead of facing the intense heat of the Cachar Valley in August. It
gave me a good opportunity of looking over the records of the Chief
Commissioner's office, where I found much relating to Manipur, but
I fear that it was lost when the Record Office was burnt down some
years ago, the copies also having been destroyed in Manipur during
the rebellion of 1891. At last the day for leaving came, and we packed
up our things and prepared once more to set off on our travels.
Before leaving, I paid several visits to Colonel McCulloch, who, since
retiring from the service, had established himself at Shillong, and
asked his advice on many points, and learned much from him regarding
Manipur. He very kindly gave his opinion freely on all questions,
telling me where some of my predecessors had failed, and pointing out
the pitfalls to be avoided. He added to all his kindness by writing
to the Maharajah, and telling him that, from what he had seen of me,
he was sure it would be his fault if we did not get on together.