SOCIETY IN GIBRALTAR.
The best thing that I find in any place is the men that are in it.
Strong walls and high towers are grand, but after a while they oppress
me by their very massiveness, unless animated by a living presence. Even
the great guns, those huge monsters that frown over the ramparts, would
lose their majesty and terror, if there were not brave men behind them.
And so, after I had surveyed Gibraltar from every point of land and
sea; after I had been round about it, and marked well its towers and its
bulwarks; to complete the enjoyment I had but one wish--to sit down in
some quiet nook and talk it all over.
There is no man in the world whom I respect more than an old soldier.
He is the embodiment of courage and of all manly qualities, and he has
given his life to his country. And if he bears in his person the scars
of honorable wounds, I look up to him with a feeling of veneration. Of
such characters no place has more than Gibraltar, which perhaps may
be considered the centre of the military life of England. True, the
movements of the Army are directed by orders from the Horse Guards in
London. But here the military feature is the predominant, if not the
exclusive, one; while in London a few thousand troops would be lost in a
city of five millions of inhabitants. Here the outward and visible sign
is ever before you: regiments whose names are historical, are always
coming and going; and if you are interested in the history of modern
wars, (as who can fail to be, since it is a part of the history of our
times?) you may not only read about them in the Garrison Library, but
see the very men that have fought in them. Here is a column coming
up the street! I look at its colors, and read the name of a regiment
already familiar through the English papers; that has shown the national
pluck and endurance in penetrating an African forest or an Indian
jungle, or in climbing the Khyber Pass in the Himalayas to settle
accounts with the Emir of Cabul. There must be strange meetings of old
comrades here, as well as new companionships formed between those who
have fought under the same royal standard, though in different parts of
the world. A regiment recalled from Halifax is quartered near another
just returned from Natal or the Cape of Good Hope; while troops from
Hong Kong, or that have been up the Irrawaddi to take part in the
late war in Upper Burmah, can exchange experiences with their brother
soldiers from the other side of the globe. Almost all the regiments
collected here have figured in distant campaigns, and the officers that
ride at their head are the very ones that led them to victory. To a
heart that is not so dead but that it can still be stirred by deeds of
daring, there is nothing more thrilling than to sit under the guns of
the greatest fortress in the world, and listen to the story as it comes
from the lips of those who were actors in the scenes.
But it would be a mistake to suppose that the society of Gibraltar is
confined to men. The home instincts are strong in English breasts;
and wherever they go they carry their household gods with them. In my
wanderings about the world, it has been my fortune to visit portions of
the British Empire ten thousand miles away from the mother country; yet
in every community there was an English stamp, a family likeness to the
old island home. Hence it is that in the most remote colony there are
the elements of a good society. Whatever country the English may enter,
even if it be in the Antipodes, as soon as they have taken root and
become established they send back to England for their wives and
daughters, that they may renew the happy life that they have lived
before, so that the traveller who penetrates the interior of Australia,
of New Zealand, or Van Dieman's Land, is surprised to find, even "in the
bush," the refinement of an English home.
This instinct is not lost, even when they are in camps or barracks. If
you visit a "cantonment" in Upper India, you will find the officers with
their families about them. The brave-hearted English women "follow the
drum" to the ends of the earth; and I have sometimes thought that their
husbands and brothers owed part of their indomitable resolution to the
inspiration of their wives and sisters.
It is this feature of garrison life, this union of "fair women and brave
men," which gives such a charm to the society of Gibraltar--a union
which is more complete here than in most garrison towns, because the
troops stay longer, and there is more opportunity for that home-life
which strangers would hardly believe to exist. Most travellers see
nothing of it. Indeed it is probable that they hardly think of Gibraltar
as having any home-life, since its population is always on the come and
go; living here only as in a camp, and to-morrow
"Folding its tents like the Arabs,
And silently stealing away."
This is partly true. Soldiers of course are subject to orders, and the
necessities of war may cause them to be embarked at an hour's notice.
But in time of peace they may remain longer undisturbed. Regiments which
have done hard service in India are sometimes left here to recruit
even for years, which gives their officers opportunity to bring their
families, whose presence makes Gibraltar seem like a part of England
itself, as if it were no farther away than the Isle of Wight. This it is
which makes life here quite other than being imprisoned in a fortress. I
may perhaps give some glimpses of these interiors (without publicity to
what is private and sacred), which I depict simply that I may do justice
to a place to which I came as a stranger, and from which I depart as a
friend.
Just before I left America, I was present at a breakfast given to M.
de Lesseps on his visit to America to attend the inauguration of
Bartholdi's Statue of Liberty. As I sat opposite the "grand Français," I
turned the conversation to Spain, to which I was going, and where I
knew that he had spent many years. He took up the subject with all his
natural fire, and spoke of the country and the people in a way to add
to my enthusiasm. Next to him sat Chief Justice Daly, who kindled at the
mention of Spain, and almost "raved" (if a learned Judge ever "raves")
about Spanish cathedrals. He had continued his journey to the Pillars of
Hercules, and said that "in all his travels he had never spent a month
with more pleasure than in Gibraltar." He had come with letters to the
Governor, Lord Napier of Magdala, which at once opened all doors to
him. Wishing to smooth my path in the same way, the English Minister at
Madrid, who had shown me so much courtesy there, gave me a letter to
the Colonial Secretary, Lord Gilford, who received me with the greatest
kindness, and took me in at once to the Governor, who was equally
cordial in his welcome.
The position of Governor of Gibraltar is one of such distinction as
to be greatly coveted by officers in the English army. It is always
bestowed on one of high rank, and generally on some old soldier who has
distinguished himself in the field. Among the late Governors was Sir
Fenwick Williams, who, with only a garrison of Turks, under the command
of four or five English officers, defended Kars, the capital of Armenia,
in 1855, repelling an assault by the Russians when they endeavored to
take it by storm, and yielding at last only to famine; and Lord Napier
of Magdala, who, born in Ceylon, spent the earlier part of his military
life in India, where he fought in the Great Mutiny, and distinguished
himself at Lucknow. Ten years later he led an English army (though
composed largely of Indian troops, with the Oriental accompaniment of
guns and baggage-trains carried on the backs of camels and elephants)
into Abyssinia, and took the capital in an assault in which King John
was slain, and the missionaries and others, whom he had long held
as prisoners and captives, were rescued. He was afterward
commander-in-chief of the forces in India, and, when he retired from
that, no position was thought more worthy of his rank and services than
that of Governor of Gibraltar, a fit termination to his long and honored
career.
The present Governor is a worthy successor to this line of distinguished
men. Sir Arthur Hardinge is the son of Lord Hardinge, who commanded the
army in India a generation ago. Brought up as it were in a camp, he
was bred as a soldier, and when little more than a boy accompanied his
father to the wars, serving as aide-de-camp through the Sutlej campaign
in 1845-46, and was in the thick of the fight in some hard-fought
battles, in one of which, at Ferozeshah, he had a horse shot under him.
When the Crimean War broke out he was ordered to the field, and served
in the campaign of 1854-55, being at the Alma and at Inkerman, and
remaining to the close of the siege of Sebastopol. Here he had rapid
promotion, besides receiving numerous decorations from the Turkish
Government, and being made Knight of the Legion of Honor. Returning
to England, he seems to have been a favorite at court and at the Horse
Guards, being made Knight Commander of the Bath, honorary Colonel of
the King's Royal Rifle Corps, and Extra Equerry to the Queen, his
honors culminating in his present high position of Governor and
Commander-in-chief of Gibraltar.
The politeness of the Governor did not end with his first welcome: it
was followed by an invitation to his New Year's Reception. It was but
a few weeks since he had taken office; and, wishing to do a courtesy to
the citizens of Gibraltar as well as to the officers of the garrison,
both were included in the invitation. The Government House was the one
place where all--soldiers and civilians--could meet on common ground,
and form the acquaintance, and cultivate the friendly feeling, so
important to the happiness of a community shut up within the limits of a
fortress. Although I was a stranger, the Consul desired me to attend,
as it would give me the opportunity to see in a familiar way the leading
men of Gibraltar, civil and military, and further, as, owing to the
recent death of his son, he could not be present nor any of his family,
so that I should be the only representative of our country.
It was indeed a notable occasion. The Government House is an old
Convent, which still retains its ancient and venerable look, though the
flag floating over it, and the sentry marching up and down before the
door, tell that it is now the seat of English power. To-night it took
on its most festive appearance, entrance and stairway being hung
with flags, embowered in palms, and wreathed with vines and ferns and
flowers; and when the officers appeared in their uniforms, and the
military band filled the place with stirring music, it was a brilliant
scene.
The gathering was in a large hall, part of which was turned to a purpose
which to some must have seemed strangely incongruous with the sacred
associations of the place: for in the old Spanish days this was a
Convent of the Franciscan Friars, who, if they ever revisit the place
of their former habitation, must have been shocked to find their chapel
turned into a place for music and dancing, and to hear the "sound of
revelry by night," where they were wont to say midnight mass, and to
offer prayers for the quick and dead!
While this was going on in one part of the hall, at the other end the
Governor sat on a dais, quietly enjoying the meeting of old friends and
the making of new ones. It was my good fortune to be one of the group,
which gave me the best possible opportunity to see the society of
Gibraltar: for here it was all gathered under one roof. Of course it
was chiefly military. There was a brilliant array of officers--generals,
colonels, and majors; while in still larger number were captains and
lieutenants, in their gay uniforms, who, if they did not exactly realize
my idea of
"Whiskered Pandours and fierce Hussars,"
looked like the brave and gallant Englishmen they were. Nor were they
alone: for there were civilians also--magistrates and lawyers and
judges; and, better still, the lovely English women, who are the
ornament of every English colony. All received me with a manner so
cordial as assured me that I was not to be treated with cold formality
as a stranger. If I had come into a camp of American officers, I could
not have had a more hearty welcome.
At length the clock struck the hour of midnight, and I rose to take
leave of the Governor; but he answered, "No, that will never do; you
must take a lady out to supper." Being under military orders, I could
but obey, and, essaying for the first time the part of a Spanish
cavalier, conducted a Spanish lady into the dining-hall. This is a
historical apartment, in which have been fêted all the royalties that
have visited Gibraltar. On the walls are hung the portraits of the
Governors from the beginning of the English occupation in 1704, among
which every visitor looks for that of "Old Eliott," the defender of the
place in the great siege. He was followed by a long succession of brave
men, who, in keeping Gibraltar, felt they were guarding the honor of
England.
After this pleasant duty had been performed, I returned to the Governor
to "report" that "I had obeyed his orders," and that "in taking leave,
I could only express the wish that Gibraltar might never be attacked in
any other way than it had been that evening," adding that "if he should
treat all my countrymen as he had treated me, I could promise him on
their part, as on mine, an unconditional surrender!"
Thus introduced, I found myself at home in a circle which included men
who had seen service in all parts of the world. Next to the Governor I
was attracted by a grand old officer whom I had observed on the parade,
his breast being covered with decorations won in many wars. This was
Major-General Walker, who has been in the army for a large part of the
reign of Queen Victoria. As long ago as the Anglo-Russian war, he was an
adjutant in one of the regiments sent to the Crimea, where he fought at
the Alma and at Inkerman, and took part in the long siege of Sebastopol.
Eager to be in the post of danger, he volunteered for a night attack, in
which he led a party that took and destroyed a Russian rifle-pit. Soon
after he was dangerously wounded in the trenches, and his right
arm amputated, for which he was promoted and received a number of
decorations. He afterward served throughout the campaign of 1860, in
China.[3]
Lord Gifford, though too young for service dating so far back, and of
such slender figure that he looks more like a university student than
like a soldier, was the hero of the Ashantee War, who led his men
through forest and jungle, in the face of the savage foe, to the capture
of Coomassie, for which he received the Victoria Cross, the proud
distinction of a British soldier.
A little volume published in England, entitled "The Victoria Cross
in the Colonies," by Lieutenant-Colonel Knollys, F.R.G.S., gives the
following sketch of this gallant officer.
"The hero of the Ashantee War, 1873-74, was undoubtedly Ederic,
third Baron Gifford. Born in 1849, he entered the Eighty-third
Regiment as ensign in 1869, became lieutenant the following year,
and in 1873 was transferred to the Twenty-fourth Regiment. He was
one of the body of volunteers who accompanied Sir Garnet Wolseley to
the Gold Coast. Appointed to train and command the Winnebeh company
of Russell's native regiment, he took part in the defence of
Absacampa and the defeat of the Ashantee army. He subsequently,
for several weeks, performed the duties of adjutant to Russell's
regiment. When the Ashantee territory was invaded, to Lord Gifford
was assigned the command of a scouting party. This party was fifty
strong, and composed of men from the West India Regiment of Houssas,
Kossos, and Bonny natives.
"Early on the morning of January 6th, 1874, Gifford, with his
scouts, crossed the Prah in canoes, and explored the country on both
sides of the road to Coomassie. The rest of the army crossed by the
bridge the same day. Marching some five miles ahead of the advance
guard, he reached a village called Essiaman, and found that it was
occupied by an Ashantee detachment, which, on advancing, he at once
attacked and put to flight, losing only one man severely wounded.
Advancing to a village called Akrofumin, he discovered that it
was held by the Ashantees; but not being able to ascertain their
strength, which he believed to be superior to his own, he prudently
contented himself with observing them.
"After remaining in this critical position for several days, he
had the satisfaction of seeing the enemy retire. He then pushed
on--indeed never left off pushing on in the most daring yet skilful
manner till Coomassie was reached--always keeping well ahead. His
scouts were devoted to Lord Gifford, 'whose docile savages,' writes
an historian of the campaign, 'worshipped the English gentleman for
his superior skill and spirit in climbing that steep barrier range,
the Adansi Hills, dividing the Assin from the Ashantee country. The
night previous to the action at Amoaful, he carefully reconnoitred
the enemy's position, and during the fight he was, with his gallant
little band, as usual, well in advance.
"The next day he was sent to reconnoitre the village of Becqua. He
had got close up when some twenty Ashantees sprang up in the bush
and fired, but providentially without effect. On receipt of his
report Sir Garnet Wolseley despatched a strong force to capture
the place. Gifford's scouts led, followed by a body of Houssas,
Russell's Regiment, and the Naval Brigade, the Forty-second
Highlanders, and a company of the Twenty-third Royal Welsh Fusileers
acting as supports. As soon as the firing began, Gifford, followed
by his handful of scouts, rushed on, and dashed into the town,
though it was occupied by a thousand Ashantees. The Houssas, for
once, could not be induced to charge; they persisted in lying down
and firing unaimed shots into the bush.
"In the meantime Lord Gifford and his party were exposed to the
concentrated fire of the defenders. His best scout was killed,
and he and all his men were wounded. In fact, he was in an almost
desperate situation. On this he shouted to the Naval Brigade to come
to his assistance. With a cheer the gallant fellows replied to the
appeal, and at their charge the enemy fled.
"Three days later the action of Ordahsu took place, Coomassie was
entered, and the campaign was virtually at an end.
"From that time Lord Gifford, there being no further need for his
services as a scout, acted as aide-de-camp to Sir Garnet Wolseley.
During the whole war this young, slight, modest-looking lad had
displayed the greatest enterprise and intrepidity, and rendered the
most valuable services. Fortune had in this case certainly favored
the brave; for notwithstanding unremitting exertions and constant
exposure both to climate and the bullets of the enemy, he escaped
disease, and was only once wounded. Modest as he was brave, he never
sought to make capital out of his exploits. They were, however, too
conspicuous to escape notice, and he was repeatedly mentioned in
despatches.
"On his return to England, he paid a visit to his regiment, the
Twenty-fourth, then stationed at Aldershot. He was received with the
greatest enthusiasm by both men and officers. The former carried him
shoulder-high into camp, and the latter entertained him at dinner;
yet he was as unaffected and simple as if he had only returned from
an ordinary duty. For his daring conduct on the Gold Coast he was
granted the Victoria Cross."
It was a privilege to spend an hour with General Walker at his own
table, and to draw him into conversation on the wars in which he had
taken part, and the great soldiers who had been his companions in arms.
Of his own part in these events he spoke very modestly, like the true
soldier that he is; though no modesty could hide the story told by that
empty sleeve of the arm that he had left in the trenches at Sebastopol.
From the Southeastern corner of Europe to the eastern coast of Asia,
is a long stretch round the globe, but here, when the scene of war was
transferred from Russia to China, we find the same gallant officer among
the foremost in the storming of the Taku forts, and with the combined
French and English army that fought its way to Peking.
As the house of the Major General stands on the Line-Wall, it is close
to the enormous batteries in the casemates below, (while one of the
hundred-ton guns is mounted near the Alameda, quite "within speaking
distance,") and must be rudely rocked by the thunder which shakes even
the solid ground like an earthquake. "What do you do at such a time?" I
asked of the ladies of the family, to which they answered gayly, "Oh,
we don't mind it." They took good care, however, to take down their
mirrors, and to lay away their glass and china, lest they should be
shattered in pieces. Then they threw open their windows, and let the
explosion come. For me this would be a trifle too near, and with all my
love for Gibraltar, I do not think I should choose a hundred-ton gun as
a next-door neighbor.
As I rose to leave, I found horses saddled and bridled at the door, on
which the General and his niece were about to take their afternoon ride,
for the officers in Gibraltar are not so shut up within its walls, that
they cannot take their pleasure as if they were in the field. True,
the Rock does not offer a very wide space for excursions, but the gay
troopers of both sexes have but to ride out of the Northern gate, and
cross the Spanish lines, and the whole country is before them. One day I
met the Governor coming in at full speed, with his staff behind him; and
almost daily there are riding parties or hunting parties, which go off
for hours, and come back with the ruddy English glow of health upon
their faces.
Indeed if one had to go about on foot, he need not feel as if he were
shut up in a fortress-prison, for there are pleasant walks over the
Rock, leading to many a nook, from which one may look off upon the sea,
where, if he has an agreeable companion, the hours will not seem long.
If for a few months the climate has a little too much of the warmth of
Africa, there is a delightful promenade along the Alameda, where friends
may saunter on summer evenings, inhaling the fresh breezes; or sit under
the trees, and (as they listen to the bands playing the familiar airs of
England) talk of their dear native island.
[Illustration: WALK IN THE ALAMEDA GARDENS.]