MEXIANA AND MARAJÓ.
Visit to Olería—Habits of Birds—Voyage to
Mexiana—Arrival—Birds—Description of the
Island—Population—Slaves, their treatment and habits—Journey to
the Lake—Beautiful stream—Fish and Birds at the Lake—Catching
Alligators—Strange sounds, and abundance of Animal Life—Walk
back—Jaguar meat—Visit to Jungcal in Marajo—Embarking cattle—Ilha
das Frechas.
Soon after our return to Pará, my hand became so much inflamed, that I
was obliged to put my arm in a sling, and go to a doctor, under whose
treatment I remained a fortnight, unable to do anything, not even pin
an insect, and consequently rather miserable. As I intended, as soon as
possible, going to the great island of Marajo, in search of some of the
curious and rare water-birds which abound there, I obtained permission
from Mr. C., an English gentleman, to visit his cattle estates; but as
there was no canoe going there for some weeks, I spent the interim at
Olería, where M. Borlaz kindly offered me a room and a place at his
table.
I found plenty of occupation in procuring specimens of the various
small birds, and making myself acquainted with their habits. None were
more abundant, both in species and individuals, than the bush-shrikes,
which are all remarkable for the same kind of falling note I have
already alluded to, though each one has some slight peculiarity by
which it may be distinguished. They generally hide themselves in the
very thickest and most impenetrable bushes, where it is impossible to
see them except by creeping up within a distance of two yards, when it
is difficult to shoot, without blowing them to pieces. They are small
birds with very loose, long, silky feathers, prettily banded or spotted
with black and white, and are constantly hopping about the bushes and
twigs, picking off whatever small insects they fall in with.
The ant-thrushes are another closely allied group, which are equally
abundant. They have stronger legs and very short tails, and walk more
on the ground, picking up insects, especially ants, very much after the
manner of poultry. When one is shot, it is often a dangerous matter
to go and fetch it, for the ground generally swarms with ants, which
attack an intruder most unmercifully both with stings and jaws. Many
times, after a fruitless attempt, have I been obliged to leave the dead
body on the field, and beat an inglorious retreat.
In all works on Natural History, we constantly find details of the
marvellous adaptation of animals to their food, their habits, and
the localities in which they are found. But naturalists are now
beginning to look beyond this, and to see that there must be some
other principle regulating the infinitely varied forms of animal
life. It must strike every one, that the numbers of birds and insects
of different groups, having scarcely any resemblance to each other,
which yet feed on the same food and inhabit the same localities, cannot
have been so differently constructed and adorned for that purpose
alone. Thus the goatsuckers, the swallows, the tyrant flycatchers, and
the jacamars, all use the same kind of food, and procure it in the
same manner: they all capture insects on the wing, yet how entirely
different is the structure and the whole appearance of these birds! The
swallows, with their powerful wings, are almost entirely inhabitants of
the air; the goatsuckers, nearly allied to them, but of a much weaker
structure, and with largely developed eyes, are semi-nocturnal birds,
sometimes flying in the evening in company with the swallows, but most
frequently settling on the ground, seizing their prey by short flights
from it, and then returning to the same spot. The fly-catchers are
strong-legged, but short-winged birds, which can perch, but cannot fly
with the ease of the swallows: they generally seat themselves on a bare
tree, and from it watch for any insects which may come within reach
of a short swoop, and which their broad bills and wide gape enable
them to seize. But with the jacamars this is not the case: their bills
are long and pointed—in fact, a weak kingfisher’s bill—yet they have
similar habits to the preceding: they sit on branches in open parts
of the forest, from thence flying after insects, which they catch on
the wing, and then return to their former station to devour them. Then
there are the trogons, with a strong serrated bill, which have similar
habits; and the little humming-birds, though they generally procure
insects from the flowers, often take them on the wing, like any other
fissirostral bird.
What birds can have their bills more peculiarly formed than the ibis,
the spoonbill, and the heron? yet they may be seen side by side,
picking up the same food from the shallow water on the beach; and
on opening their stomachs, we find the same little crustacea and
shell-fish in them all. Then among the fruit-eating birds, there are
pigeons, parrots, toucans, and chatterers,—families as distinct and
widely separated as possible,—which yet may be often seen feeding all
together on the same tree; for in the forests of South America, certain
fruits are favourites with almost every kind of fruit-eating bird. It
has been assumed by some writers on Natural History, that every wild
fruit is the food of some bird or animal, and that the varied forms and
structure of their mouths may be necessitated by the peculiar character
of the fruits they are to feed on; but there is more of imagination
than fact in this statement: the number of wild fruits furnishing food
for birds is very limited, and birds of the most varied structure and
of every size will be found visiting the same tree.
Insects were now more abundant than ever, and new kinds were met with
almost every day. Lovely little butterflies, spangled with gold, or
glittering with the most splendid metallic tints, hid themselves under
leaves or expanded their wings in the morning sun; while the larger and
more majestic kinds flew lazily along the shaded forest paths. The more
sombre _Hesperidæ_ were the most abundant, and it would often happen
that, of a dozen specimens taken in a day’s excursion, no two were
alike.
At length the canoe, for which I had been waiting, was ready to sail;
and on the 3rd of November we left Pará, for the island of Mexiana,
situated in the main stream of the Amazon, between the great island of
Marajó and the northern shore. We had to go down the Pará river, and
round the eastern point of Marajó, where we were quite exposed to the
ocean; and, though most of the time in fresh water, I was very sea-sick
all the voyage, which lasted four days. The canoe was intended for the
conveyance of cattle, and therefore had no particular accommodation for
human passengers. There was certainly a little cabin, with two berths
just five feet long, but not at all suitable for me (I am six feet two
inches high), so I preferred the hold. Our crew consisted of eight
young Tapuyas,—fine active fellows, from fifteen to twenty years of
age. Each wore a tight-fitting pair of trousers and a very short shirt,
so that six inches of red skin appeared between the two garments. The
shrouds of the canoe consisted of the stay-ropes only, without any
rattlins or cross-steps, yet up these they would run like monkeys,
holding on with their toes.
The island of Mexiana is about twenty-five miles long by twelve broad,
of a regular oval shape, and is situated exactly on the equator. It
is quite flat, and is all _campo_, or open ground, but dotted with
scattered trees and bushes, and with a little forest at the water’s
edge. It is celebrated for its birds, alligators, and onças, and is
used as a cattle estate by the proprietor. The alligators abound in
a lake in the centre of the island, where they are killed in great
numbers for their fat, which is made into oil.
I was accompanied by Mr. Yates, a collector of Orchids, who, after a
few weeks’ stay, not finding much variety of those plants, returned to
Pará. On our arrival we were received by Senhor Leonardo, a German,
who is the overseer, to whom we presented our letter from Mr. C. We
were then shown the rooms we were to occupy in the house, which is
spacious and has an upper story; and having got our luggage on shore,
we soon made ourselves at home. Round the house are a good many orange
and mango trees, behind which is a row of cottages, where reside the
_vaqueiros_ or herdsmen, who are mostly Negroes and slaves; and beyond,
as far as the eye can reach, is the flat campo, dotted over with cattle
and horses.
On inquiring about the best localities for insects, birds, and plants,
we were rather alarmed by being told that onças were very numerous,
even near the house, and that it was dangerous to walk out alone or
unarmed. We soon found however that no one had been actually attacked
by them; though they, poor animals, are by no means unmolested, as
numerous handsome skins drying in the sun, and teeth and skulls lying
about, sufficiently proved. There is no doubt but they are unpleasant
animals to encounter, and their teeth and claws are so fearfully
adapted to destroy whatever may come within their reach, that it is
much better to be a little cautious, than to run any risk: I therefore
put half-a-dozen bullets in my game-bag, in case of an encounter.
Some of the horses and cattle were miserable-looking objects, from
wounds inflicted by the bats, which cause them to lose much blood, and
sometimes, by successive attacks, kill them. Senhor Leonardo informed
us that they particularly abounded in some parts of the island, and
that he often has bat-hunts, when several thousand are killed. It is
a large species, of a coffee-brown colour, probably the _Phyllostoma
hastatum_.
The morning after my arrival I took my gun, and walked out to see what
sport the island afforded. First going to a tree near the house, which
Senhor Leonardo pointed out to me, I found numerous humming-birds
fluttering about the leaves (which were still wet with dew), and
seeming to wash and cool themselves with the moisture: they were of
a blue and green colour, with a long forked tail (_Campylopterus
hirundinaceus_). Walking on in the campo, I found abundance of Bemteví
flycatchers, cuckoos, and tanagers, and also shot a buzzard and a black
eagle different from any I had seen at Pará. Insects were very scarce,
owing to the dryness of the season and the absence of forest; so I
soon gave up collecting them, and attended entirely to birds, which
were rather plentiful, though not very rare or handsome. In ten days I
obtained seventy specimens, among which were fourteen hawks and eagles,
several herons, egrets, paroquets, woodpeckers, and one of the large
yellow-billed toucans (_Rhamphastos Toco_), which are not found at Pará.
Having made several excursions for some miles into the interior of
the island and along the coast, I obtained a tolerable idea of its
geography. It is everywhere a perfect flat, the greatest elevations
being a very few feet. Along the shore in most places, and extending
along the banks of the creeks inland, is a belt of forest, varying in
width from a hundred yards to half a mile, containing a few palms and
lofty trees, and abundance of bamboos and climbers, rendering it almost
impassable. The whole of the interior is campo, or open plain, covered
with a coarse herbage, and in places sprinkled with round-headed palms,
and with low branching trees bearing a profusion of yellow flowers.
Scattered about, at intervals of a few miles, are clumps of trees and
bushes, some very small, but others sufficiently extensive to form
little forests. These are generally known as “ilhas,” or islands,
and many of them have separate names, as, “Ilha do São Pedro,” “Ilha
dos Urubus.” In the wet season a great part of the island appears to
be flooded, and dead crabs and fresh-water shells are found a long
way inland: these groves are then probably real islands, though not
perceptibly above the general level.
A phenomenon, which is seen on the banks of the Mississippi and most
other rivers which overflow their banks, also occurs here. The land
is highest near the water’s edge, and gradually falls inland, caused
by the heavier sediment being deposited during floods at the shortest
distance, while the lighter matter only is carried inland, and spread
over a larger area. The surface of the campos is very uneven for
walking, being in little clumps or hillocks, so that it is equally
tiresome and fatiguing to walk on their summits or between them. The
stems of the palms were all covered with orchideous plants, but they
had now generally neither leaves nor flowers, and seemed to be of very
little variety of species. In the marshy places shrubby convolvuli are
abundant, and in others are large beds of cassias and mimosas, while
scattered among them are many delicate little flowers.
Long-tailed, light-coloured cuckoos were continually flying about from
tree to tree, uttering their peculiar note, not at all like that of our
cuckoo, but more like the creaking of a rusty hinge, which the name
given to them, _Carerú_, is intended to resemble. Equally abundant
are the black hornbill cuckoos, called Anús; and on almost every tree
may be seen sitting a hawk or buzzard, the variety of which is very
great, as in a few weeks I obtained eight different kinds. Pretty
paroquets, with white and orange bands on their wings, and others with
an orange-coloured crown, were very plentiful, and it was amusing to
watch the activity with which they climbed about over the trees, and
how suddenly and simultaneously they flew away when alarmed. Their
plumage is so near the colour of the foliage, that it is sometimes
impossible to see them, though you may have watched a whole flock enter
a tree, and can hear them twittering overhead, when, after gazing until
your patience is exhausted, they will suddenly fly off with a scream of
triumph.
Then among the bushes there were flocks of the beautiful red-breasted
oriole, _Icterus militaris_; but they were unfortunately not in good
plumage at the time of my visit. The common black vulture is generally
to be seen sailing overhead, or seated on some dead tree; and great
Muscovy ducks fly past with a rushing sound, like some great aerial
machine beating the air violently to support its ponderous body, and
offering a striking contrast to the great wood-ibis, which sails along
with noiseless wings in flocks of ten or a dozen. In the skirt of
forest and in the larger “ilhas,” black and spotted jaguars are often
found, while pacas, cotias, tatus or armadillos, deer, and other small
game are plentiful.
The whole population of the island consists of about forty persons, of
whom twenty are slaves, and the remainder free Indians and Negroes in
the employ of the proprietors. These are all engaged in attending to
the cattle and horses on the island, which vary in number, and were
much more numerous three or four years ago; the horses in particular
having been almost exterminated by a disease which suddenly appeared
among them. There were now about fifteen hundred head of cattle,
besides a great number of wild ones, which keep in the remote parts
of the island, and four hundred horses. The slaves and labourers are
allowed farinha only; but they can cultivate Indian corn and vegetables
for themselves, and have powder and shot given them for hunting, so
that they do not fare so badly. They also have tobacco allowed them,
and most of them earn money by making baskets or other trifles, or
by killing onças, the skin being worth from five to ten shillings.
Besides attending to the cattle and horses, they have to build houses
and corrals, to hunt alligators for oil, and kill bats, which do great
injury to the cattle by sucking their blood night after night. The bats
live in holes in trees, where they are killed in considerable numbers,
Senhor Leonardo informing me that they had destroyed about seven
thousand during the last six months. Many hundreds of cattle are said
to have been killed by them in a few years.
The slaves appeared contented and happy, as slaves generally do. Every
evening at sunset they came to bid good-night to Senhor Leonardo and
myself, a similar salutation taking place when they first met us in the
morning. If one goes out for the day to any distance, he bids adieu
to all he may meet, as if he were parting from his dearest friends on
the eve of a long journey; contrasting strongly with the apathy of the
Indian, who scarcely ever exhibits any feelings of regret on parting,
or of pleasure on his return. In the evening they play and sing in
their own houses: their instrument is a homemade guitar, from which
they obtain three or four notes, which are repeated for hours with the
most wearisome monotony. To this music they join an extempore song,
generally relating to some events of the day; and the doings of the
“brancos,” or white people, have often a considerable share in it.
Many of them keep fowls and ducks, which they sell, to buy any little
luxuries they may require, and they often go fishing to supply the
house, when they have a share for themselves.
Every Saturday evening they meet for Divine service, which is performed
in a room fitted up as a chapel, with an altar gaily decorated with
figures of the Virgin and Child, and several saints painted and gilt
in a most brilliant manner. Some of these figures are the work of
Senhor Leonardo, who is an excellent self-taught carver; and when the
candles are lit, and all is in order, the effect is equal to that of
many village churches. Two of the oldest Negroes conduct the service,
kneeling at the altar; the rest kneel or stand about the room. What
they chant is, I believe, part of the vesper service of the Roman
Catholic Church, and all join in the responses with much fervour,
though without understanding a word. Sunday is their own day, for
working in their gardens, hunting, or idleness, as they choose; and in
the evening they often assemble in the verandah to dance, and sometimes
keep it up all night.
While I was on the island a child of a few weeks old was to be
baptized. This they consider a most important ceremony; so the father
and mother, with godfathers and godmothers, set out in a canoe for
Chaves, on the island of Marajó, the nearest place where there is a
priest. They were absent three days, and then returned with the news
that the Padre was ill, and could not perform the ceremony; so they
were obliged to bring back the poor little unsanctified creature,
liable, according to their ideas, should it die, to eternal perdition.
The same evening they sang for three hours to their usual music the
whole history of their journey, judging from the portions which were
here and there intelligible.
They made every fact into a verse, which was several times repeated.
Thus one would suddenly burst out—
“The Padre was ill, and could not come,
The Padre was ill, and could not come.”
CHORUS.
“The Padre was ill, and could not come.”
Then for a time the music continued without the voices, while they were
trying to find another fact to found a verse upon. At length some one
continued the subject:—
“He told us to come the next day,
To see if he was better.”
CHORUS.
“He told us to come the next day,
To see if he was better.”
And so on to the end of the history, which struck me as being probably
very similar to the unwritten lays of the ancient bards, who could
thus make well-known facts interesting by being sung to music in an
appropriate and enthusiastic manner. In a warlike nation, what more
would at first be necessary than to relate the bold deeds of the
warriors, the discomfiture of the enemy, and the trophies of victory,
in order to raise the enthusiasm of the audience to the highest pitch?
Some of these would be handed down from generation to generation, the
language improved, and when they came to be reduced to writing, rhyme
would be added, and a regular poem constructed.
Having now arrived at the height of the dry season, and the waters of
the lake before mentioned being sufficiently low, the German steward
informed me that he should make an excursion there to kill alligators,
and I determined to accompany him. There are two ways to reach the
place—overland in nearly a direct line, or round to the other side
of the island in a boat and up a stream, which can be ascended to
within a few miles of the lake, with which indeed in the wet season it
communicates. The tide served for the boat to start about midnight, and
I decided on going in it, as I thought I should thus see more of the
island. The overseer was to go by land in the morning. Being roused
up at midnight, I got into the canoe with three Negroes, and tried to
compose myself for a nap as well as I could upon the baskets of farinha
and salt with which it was loaded. It was a large clumsy canoe, and
with a sail and the tide we went on pretty well; but as morning dawned
we got out rather far from land into the ocean-like river, and the
swell beginning to be disagreeable, I arose from my uneven couch very
qualmish and uncomfortable.
However, about ten o’clock we reached the mouth of the igaripé, or
small stream we were to ascend, and I was very glad to get into still
water. We staid for breakfast in a little clear space under a fine
tree, and I enjoyed a cup of coffee and a little biscuit, while the
men luxuriated on fish and farinha. We then proceeded up the stream,
which was at its commencement about two hundred yards wide, but soon
narrowed to fifty or eighty. I was much delighted with the beauty of
the vegetation, which surpassed anything I had seen before: at every
bend of the stream some new object presented itself,—now a huge cedar
hanging over the water, or a great silk cotton-tree standing like a
giant above the rest of the forest. The graceful assaí palms occurred
continually, in clumps of various sizes, sometimes raising their stems
a hundred feet into the air, or bending in graceful curves till they
almost met from the opposite banks. The majestic murutí palm was also
abundant, its straight and cylindrical stems like Grecian columns,
and with its immense fan-shaped leaves and gigantic bunches of fruit,
produced an imposing spectacle. Some of these bunches were larger than
any I had before seen, being eight or ten feet in length, weighing
probably two or three hundredweight: each consisted of several bushels
of a large reticulated fruit. These palms were often clothed with
creepers, which ran up to the summits, and there put forth their
blossoms. Lower down, on the water’s edge, were numerous flowering
shrubs, often completely covered with convolvuluses, passion-flowers,
or bignonias. Every dead or half-rotten tree was clothed with parasites
of singular forms, or bearing beautiful flowers, while smaller palms,
curiously-shaped stems, and twisting climbers, formed a background in
the interior of the forest.
Nor were there wanting animated figures to complete the picture.
Brilliant scarlet and yellow macaws flew continually overhead, while
screaming parrots and paroquets were passing from tree to tree in
search of food. Sometimes from a branch over the water were suspended
the hanging nests of the black and yellow troupial (_Cassicus
icteronotus_), into which those handsome birds were continually
entering. The effect of the scene was much heightened by the river
often curving to one side or the other, so as to bring to view a
constant variety of objects. At every bend we would see before us a
flock of the elegant white heron, seated on some dead tree overhanging
the water; but as soon as we came in sight of them, they would take
flight, and on passing another bend we would find them again perched
in front of us, and so on for a considerable distance. On many of the
flowering shrubs gay butterflies were settled, and sometimes on a muddy
bank a young alligator would be seen comfortably reposing in the sun.
We continued our journey thus for several hours, the men rowing
vigorously, for fear of the tide turning against us before we reached
our destination: this however happened just as we entered a narrower
part of the stream. The scenery was now much more gloomy; the tall
trees closed overhead so as keep out every sunbeam. The palms twisted
and bent in various contortions, so that we sometimes could hardly pass
beneath, and sunken logs often lay across from bank to bank, compelling
us to get out of the canoe, and use all our exertions to force it over.
Our progress was therefore very slow, and the stream was every minute
running stronger against us. Here was a building-place for various
aquatic birds: the wood-ibis and numerous cranes and herons had their
nests on the summits of the lofty trees over the water, while lower
down was the station chosen by the boat-bill. There was a continual
rustle and flapping of wings as these long-legged, clumsy birds flew
about, startled at our approach; and when I shot one of the large
wood-ibises, the confusion was at its height. Numerous kingfishers were
continually passing up and down, or darting from some dead stick into
the water to seize their prey.
After about two hours of very hard and disagreeable work, we reached
the landing-place, where there was an old deserted cottage, and the
overseer and several Negroes with horses were waiting to convey the
provisions we had brought, to the Lake. We immediately set off on
foot over an extensive plain, which was in places completely bare,
and in others thinly clothed with low trees. There could not be a
greater contrast than between the scene we had just left, and that
which we now entered upon. The one was all luxuriance and verdure,
the other as brown and barren as could be,—a dreary waste of marsh,
now parched up by the burning sun, and covered with tufts of a wiry
grass, with here and there rushes and prickly sensitive plants, and
a few pretty little flowers occasionally growing up among them. The
trees, which in some places were abundant, did not much diminish the
general dreariness of the prospect, for many of the leaves had fallen
off owing to the continued drought, and those that were left were brown
and half-shrivelled. The ground was very disagreeable for walking,
being composed of numerous little clumps and ridges, placed so closely
together that you could neither step securely upon nor between them:
they appeared to be caused by the rains and floods in the wet season
washing away the earth from between the roots of the grass-tufts, the
whole being afterwards hardened by the excessive heat of the sun, and
the grass almost entirely burnt away.
After walking over four or five miles of such ground, we arrived at the
Lake just as it was getting dark. The only building there was a small
shed without any walls, under which we hung our hammocks, while the
Negroes used the neighbouring trees and bushes for the same purpose.
A large fire was blazing, and round it were numerous wooden spits,
containing pieces of fresh fish and alligator’s tail for our supper.
While it was getting ready, we went to look at some fish which had
just been caught, and lay ready for salting and drying the next day:
they were the pirarucú (_Sudis gigas_), a splendid species, five or
six feet long, with large scales of more than an inch in diameter,
and beautifully marked and spotted with red. The Lake contains great
quantities of them, and they are salted and dried for the Pará market.
It is a very fine-flavoured fish, the belly in particular being so fat
and rich that it cannot be cured, and is therefore generally eaten
fresh. This, with farinha and some coffee, made us an excellent supper,
and the alligator’s tail, which I now tasted for the first time, was by
no means to be despised. We soon turned into our hammocks, and slept
soundly after the fatigue of the day. Jaguars were abundant, and had
carried off some fish a night or two before; the alligators too were
plunging and snorting within twenty yards of us: but we did not suffer
such trifles to disturb our slumbers.
Before daybreak I had my gun upon my shoulder, eager to make an attack
upon the ducks and other aquatic birds which swarmed about the lake. I
soon found plenty of them, and, my gun being loaded with small shot, I
killed seven or eight at the first fire. They were very pretty little
birds, with metallic-green and white wings, and besides forming good
specimens, provided us with an excellent breakfast. After the first
discharge however they became remarkably shy, so I went after the
roseate spoonbills, white herons, and long-legged plovers, which I saw
on the other side: they also seemed to have taken warning by the fate
of their companions, for I could not get near enough for a shot, as
there was no means of concealing my approach.
What is called the Lake is a long, winding piece of water, from thirty
to fifty yards wide and of little depth. It is bordered with aquatic
plants and shrubs, and in some parts is thickly covered with floating
grass and duckweed. It is inhabited by immense numbers of the fish
already mentioned, and alligators, which are so thick that there is
scarcely any place where you may not stir one up. There are also great
quantities of very small fish about two inches long, which I suppose
serve as food for the larger ones, which in their turn are probably
sometimes devoured by the alligators; though it appears almost a
mystery how so many large animals can find a subsistence, crowded
together in such a small space.
After breakfast the overseer commenced the alligator-hunt. A number of
Negroes went into the water with long poles, driving the animals to the
side, where others awaited them with harpoons and lassos.
Sometimes the lasso was at once thrown over their heads, or, if first
harpooned, a lasso was then secured to them, either over the head or
the tail; and they were easily dragged to the shore by the united force
of ten or twelve men. Another lasso was fixed, if necessary, so as to
fasten them at both ends, and on being pulled out of the water, a Negro
cautiously approached with an axe, and cut a deep gash across the root
of the tail, rendering that formidable weapon useless; another blow
across the neck disabled the head, and the animal was then left, and
pursuit of another commenced, which was speedily reduced to the same
condition. Sometimes the cord would break, or the harpoon get loose,
and the Negroes had often to wade into the water among the ferocious
animals in a very hazardous manner. They were from ten to eighteen
feet long, sometimes even twenty, with enormous mis-shapen heads, and
fearful rows of long sharp teeth. When a number were out on the land,
dead or dying, they were cut open, and the fat which accumulates in
considerable quantities about the intestines was taken out, and made
up into packets in the skins of the smaller ones, taken off for the
purpose. There is another smaller kind, here called Jacaré-tinga, which
is the one eaten, the flesh being more delicate than in the larger
species. After killing twelve or fifteen, the overseer and his party
went off to another lake at a short distance, where the alligators were
more plentiful, and by night had killed near fifty. The next day they
killed twenty or thirty more, and got out the fat from the others.
I amused myself very well with my gun, creeping among the long grass,
to get a shot at the shy aquatic birds, and sometimes wandering about
the campo, where a woodpecker or a macaw rewarded my perseverance. I
was much pleased when I first brought down a splendid blue and yellow
macaw, but it gave me some hours of hard work to skin and prepare it,
for the head is so fleshy and muscular, that it is no trifling matter
to clean it thoroughly. The great tuyuyú (_Mycteria Americana_) was
often seen stalking about; but, with every precaution, I could not get
within gun-shot of it. The large and small white herons were abundant,
as well as black and grey ibises, boat-bills, blue storks, and ducks of
several species; there were also many black and yellow orioles, and a
glossy starling,—of all of which I procured specimens.
I had an opportunity of seeing the manner of curing fish practised
here. They are partially skinned, and a large piece of meat cut out
from each side, leaving the backbone with the head and skin attacked.
Each piece of meat is then cut lengthways, so as to unfold into a large
flat slab, which is then slightly sprinkled with salt and laid upon a
board. Other slices are laid on this, and, when the salt has penetrated
sufficiently, they are hung upon poles or laid upon the ground in the
sun to dry, which does not occupy more than two or three days. They
are then packed up in bundles of about a hundred pounds each, and are
ready for market. The bones and heads furnish a fine feast for the
vultures, and sometimes a jaguar will carry them away in the night, but
he prefers an entire fish if one is left in his way.
Immediately on the fish being cut up, every part of it is blackened by
thousands of flies, which keep up a continual hum the whole day. In
fact, the sound of animal life never ceases. Directly after sunset,
the herons, bitterns, and cranes begin their discordant cries, and the
boat-bills and frogs set up a dismal croaking. The note of one frog
deserves a better name: it is an agreeable whistle, and, could it be
brought into civilized society, would doubtless have as many admirers
as the singing mouse, or the still more marvellous whistling oyster
described by ‘Punch.’ All night long, the alligators and fish keep
up a continual plunging; but, with the grey of morning, commence the
most extraordinary noises. All of a sudden ten thousand white-winged
paroquets begin their morning song with such a confusion of piercing
shrieks as it is quite impossible to describe: a hundred knife-grinders
at full work would give but a faint idea of it. A little later, and
another noise is heard: the flies, which had weighed down every blade
of grass, now wake up, and, with a sounding hum, commence their attack
upon the fish: every piece that has lain a few hours upon the ground
has deposited around it masses of their eggs as large as walnuts.
In fact, the abundance of every kind of animal life crowded into a
small space was here very striking, compared with the sparing manner
in which it is scattered in the virgin forests. It seems to force us
to the conclusion, that the luxuriance of tropical vegetation is not
favourable to the production and support of animal life. The plains are
always more thickly peopled than the forest; and a temperate zone, as
has been pointed out by Mr. Darwin, seems better adapted to the support
of large land-animals than the tropics.
In this lake the overseer informed me he had killed as many as a
hundred alligators in a few days, whereas in the Amazon or Pará rivers
it would be difficult to procure as many in a year. Geologists, judging
from the number of large reptiles, the remains of which are found in
considerable quantities in certain strata, tell us of a time when the
whole world was peopled by such animals, before a sufficient quantity
of dry land had been formed to support land quadrupeds. But, as it is
evident that the remains of these alligators would be found accumulated
together should any revolution of the earth cause their death, it would
appear that such descriptions are founded upon insufficient data,
and that considerable portions of the earth might have been as much
elevated as they are at present, notwithstanding the numerous remains
of aquatic reptiles which would seem to indicate a great extent of
shallow water for their abode.
The alligator fat and a quantity of fish were now ready, so we prepared
to return home. I determined this time to walk overland, so as to see
the character of the interior of the island. I returned with the two
Negroes to the ruined cottage before mentioned, so as to be ready to
start the next morning for a walk of some ten or twelve miles across
the campo. On our way to the hut we passed over a part which was
burning, and saw the curious phenomenon of the fire proceeding in two
opposite directions at the same time. The wind carried the fire rapidly
in a westerly direction, while, at the same time, by causing the tall
grass to bend over into the flames, they progressed, though at a slower
rate, towards the east. The campos are set on fire purposely every
summer, as the coarse grass being burnt down, leaves room for a fine
crop to spring up afresh with the first rains. Near the hut I shot a
large grey heron, which made us a very good supper; and we then hung up
our hammocks for the night in the little dirty ruined hut, from which a
short time before a jaguar had carried away a large bundle of fish.
In the morning the canoe was loaded to return, and I proceeded along
a faint track homewards. The scene was generally very desolate and
barren. Sometimes there was not a blade of grass for miles. Then would
come a wide bed of gigantic rushes, which extends across the island
nearly from one side to the other. In other places were large beds of
prickly mimosas, and, at intervals, considerable tracts covered with
leafless trees about which numbers of woodpeckers were busily at work.
Hawks and vultures were also seen, and the great red-billed toucan
(_Rhamphastos Toco_) flew by in an undulating course in parties of
three or four. It was cloudy, and there was a good deal of wind; but
at this time of the year no rain ever falls here, so I did not hurry
myself on that account, and, early in the afternoon, reached the house,
rather tired, but much interested with my walk. I forgot to mention
that in the evening, after the alligator-hunt, the Negroes sang several
hymns, as a thanksgiving for having escaped their jaws.
The next day all were busily employed boiling the fat into oil,
which supplies the lamps on all Mr. C.’s estates. It has rather a
disagreeable smell, but not worse than train-oil. I now went out every
day with my gun about the campo, or to the clumps of wood called
islands, on the banks of the small streams. The principal birds I
procured were toucans, parrots, hawks, and buzzards, the red-headed
manakin, and numerous small finches and flycatchers. The mango-trees
were loaded with ripe fruit, and attracted many small tanagers and
paroquets. I now ate the mango for the first time, and soon got to like
it very much. It is not generally eaten in Pará except by the Negroes,
who seem very fond of it, to judge by the certainty with which every
fruit disappeared the moment it became ripe. There seems to be scarcely
an animal that is not fond of it,—cattle, sheep, pigs, ducks, and
fowls, all rush to secure every one that falls.
Soon after Christmas we had a few showers at intervals, and the grass
began to grow more greenly—a sign that the summer was nearly at an end.
Some butterflies and moths now made their appearance, and the skirts
of the forest were covered with passion-flowers, convolvuluses, and
many other flowers. Bees and wasps also began to abound, and several
aquatic birds I had not before seen made their appearance. In January,
Mr. C. and his family and some visitors arrived to spend a few weeks on
the island, and the time passed more pleasantly. Several of the Negroes
were sent hunting, and wild ducks of various species, deer, armadillos,
and fish, with beef and mutton, gave us plenty for our table. Several
jaguars were killed, as Mr. C. pays about eight shillings each for
their skins: one day we had some steaks at the table, and found the
meat very white, and without any bad taste.
It appears evident to me that the common idea of the food of an animal
determining the quality of its meat is quite erroneous. Domestic
poultry and pigs are the most unclean animals in their food, yet their
flesh is most highly esteemed, while rats and squirrels, which eat only
vegetable food, are in general disrepute. Carnivorous fish are not less
delicate eating than herbivorous ones, and there appears no reason why
some carnivorous animals should not furnish wholesome and palatable
food. Venison, so highly esteemed at home, is here the most dry and
tasteless meat that can be had, as it must be cooked within twelve
hours after it is killed.
A good deal more rain now fell, and small pools were formed in some
parts of the campos. About these, plovers and other birds were to
be seen wading, and a small flock of the elegant long-legged plover
(_Himantopus_). After much difficulty I succeeded in killing three or
four of them. The curious razor-bill was also often seen skimming over
the water, and the great tuyuyú occasionally approached near the house,
but always kept out of gunshot, and though I crawled along prostrate
to get within reach of him, he always found me out in time for his own
safety.
As I was getting scarcely any insects here, and the birds were not very
valuable, I determined to return to Pará with Mr. C., who was going to
pass a week at his other estate on the island of Marajó by the way.
The journey across in Mr. C.’s schooner occupied but a few hours, and
we then entered a river which leads up to the estate called Jungcal. On
arriving we found a mud-walled house not quite finished, which was to
be our abode while we staid. At the back of the house stretched out, as
far as the eye could reach, a perfectly flat plain or campo, on which
fed numerous herds of cattle. Hound about were “corrals” fenced in for
collecting the cattle, and huts for the “vaqueiros,” or cowherds; and
along the banks of the river were patches of wood, and thickets of a
great prickly bamboo. About the campo were numerous marshes and narrow
streams or ditches, which contained many curious and pretty aquatic
plants. Mosquitoes were plentiful, and annoyed us much in the evenings,
when we wished to enjoy the cool air in the verandah.
The Negroes and Mulattoes employed about the estate were mostly fine
young men, and led a life of alternate idleness and excitement, which
they seemed to enjoy very much. All their work is done on horseback,
where they showed to great advantage, only wearing a pair of trousers
and a cap with a tassel, displaying the fine symmetry of their bodies.
We were much amused by seeing them bring in the cattle, driving them
into the corral, or using the lasso when one was to be slaughtered. For
this purpose they generally get two lassos on the head or legs of the
animal, the end of each of which is held by a horseman. The “matador”
then goes up and hamstrings the poor animal with a cutlass. This quite
disables him: in vain he tries to rise on his legs and run at his
merciless assailants, till the cutlass is thrust into his neck and
deep down into his chest. He is hardly dead when he is skinned and cut
up, and the dogs and vultures rush to feast upon the pool of blood and
entrails which mark the spot. The sight was a sickening one, and I did
not care to witness it more than once.
There were few birds or insects worth catching, and it was not the time
of year for the spoonbills and ibises, which have a building-place
near, and arrive in immense numbers in the month of June.
After spending about a week at Jungcal we embarked to return to Pará.
A cattle-canoe was to accompany us, and we were to take some of the
animals on board our schooner. We started early in the morning, and in
about an hour arrived at a corral on the river-side, where the cattle
were. The boat was anchored about twenty yards from the shore, and
a block and fall rigged to haul them up on deck. In the corral were
twenty or thirty wild cattle, who had been kicking and plunging about
till they had filled the place with mud knee-deep. Several men with
lassos were trying to secure them, by throwing the loops over their
horns. The cattle used all their endeavours to avoid being caught,
by shaking their heads and throwing the cords off before they could
be pulled tight. Each man kept his attention directed to one animal,
following it about to every part of the corral. After a few attempts
he generally succeeded in getting the loop fixed over the horns, and
then half-a-dozen came to his assistance, to get the ox out of the
corral into the water. This was done by some pulling at the lassos,
while others poked and beat the animal with long poles, which would so
irritate it that it would roll itself on the ground and rush at the men
with all its force. At this they did not seem to be much alarmed, but
jumped on one side or sprang on to the rails of the corral, and then
immediately returned to the attack. At length the creature would be
either pulled or driven into the water, and the end of the rope being
quickly thrown on board the canoe, the ox was towed up to the vessel’s
side. A strong rope was then noosed over its horns, by which it was
lifted into the air, struggling as helplessly as a kitten held by the
skin of its neck; it was then lowered into the hold, where, after a
little disturbance, it soon became quiet. One after another were put
on board in this manner, each offering something interesting, arising
from the fury of the animal or the great skill and coolness of the
vaqueiros. Once or twice the lasso, which is made of twisted hide, was
thrown short of the canoe, and I then admired the rapidity with which
an Indian plunged head foremost after it, not stopping even to take
the cap from his head; he then gave the rope to those on board, and
mounting on the back of the swimming ox, rode in triumph to the canoe.
We did not get them all on board without an accident. The principal
herdsman, a strong and active Mulatto, was in the corral, driving the
cattle to one end of it, when a furious ox rushed at him, and with
the rapidity of lightning he was stretched, apparently dead, upon the
ground. The other men immediately carried him out, and Mr. and Mrs.
C. went on shore to attend to him. In about half an hour he revived a
little. He appeared to have been struck in the chest by the animal’s
head, the horns not having injured him. In a very short time he was
in the corral again, as if nothing had happened, and when all were
embarked he came on board and made a hearty dinner, his appetite not
having suffered by the accident.
We then proceeded on our voyage, and as soon as we got into the Amazon
I again experienced the uncomfortable sensation of sea-sickness, though
in fresh-water. The next night we had a very strong wind, which split
our mainsail all to pieces. The following day we landed at a little
island called Ilha das Frechas (the Isle of Arrows), on account of the
quantity of a peculiar kind of reed, used by the Indians for making
their arrows, which grows there. We staid nearly the whole day, dining
under the shade of the trees, and roaming about, picking a wild fruit,
like a small plum, which grew there in abundance; there were also many
curious fruits and handsome flowers which attracted our attention. Some
years ago the island is said to have swarmed with wild hogs, but they
are now nearly exterminated. The next day we passed the eastern point
of the island of Marajó, where there is a sudden change from the waters
of the Amazon to those of the Pará river, the former being yellow and
fresh, the latter green and salt: they mix but little at the junction,
so that we passed in a moment from one kind of water to the other. In
two days more we reached Pará.