Chapter 4. Up the St. John's

There was not much stirring in the Department of the South early in

1863, and the St. Mary's expedition had afforded a new sensation. Of

course the few officers of colored troops, and a larger number who

wished to become such, were urgent for further experiments in the same

line; and the Florida tax-commissioners were urgent likewise. I well

remember the morning when, after some preliminary correspondence, I

steamed down from Beaufort, S. C., to Hilton Head, with General Saxton,

Judge S., and one or two others, to have an interview on the matter with

Major-General Hunter, then commanding the Department.

Hilton Head, in those days, seemed always like some foreign military

station in the tropics. The long, low, white buildings, with piazzas

and verandas on the water-side; the general impression of heat and

lassitude, existence appearing to pulsate only with the sea-breeze; the

sandy, almost impassable streets; and the firm, level beach, on which

everybody walked who could get there: all these suggested Jamaica or the

East Indies. Then the head-quarters at the end of the beach, the Zouave

sentinels, the successive anterooms, the lounging aids, the good-natured

and easy General,--easy by habit and energetic by impulse,--all had a

certain air of Southern languor, rather picturesque, but perhaps not

altogether bracing. General Hunter received us, that day, with his usual

kindliness; there was a good deal of pleasant chat; Miles O'Reilly was

called in to read his latest verses; and then we came to the matter in

hand.

Jacksonville, on the St. John's River, in Florida, had been

already twice taken and twice evacuated; having been occupied by

Brigadier-General Wright, in March, 1862, and by Brigadier-General

Brannan, in October of the same year. The second evacuation was by

Major-General Hunter's own order, on the avowed ground that a garrison

of five thousand was needed to hold the place, and that this force could

not be spared. The present proposition was to take and hold it with

a brigade of less than a thousand men, carrying, however, arms and

uniforms for twice that number, and a month's rations. The claim was,

that there were fewer rebel troops in the Department than formerly,

and that the St. Mary's expedition had shown the advantage possessed by

colored troops, in local knowledge, and in the confidence of the loyal

blacks. It was also urged, that it was worth while to risk something, in

the effort to hold Florida, and perhaps bring it back into the Union.

My chief aim in the negotiation was to get the men into action, and

that of the Florida Commissioners to get them into Florida. Thus far

coinciding, we could heartily co-operate; and though General Hunter made

some reasonable objections, they were yielded more readily than I had

feared; and finally, before half our logical ammunition was exhausted,

the desired permission was given, and the thing might be considered as

done.

We were now to leave, as we supposed forever, the camp which had thus

far been our home. Our vast amount of surplus baggage made a heavy job

in the loading, inasmuch as we had no wharf, and everything had to be

put on board by means of flat-boats. It was completed by twenty-four

hours of steady work; and after some of the usual uncomfortable delays

which wait on military expeditions, we were at last afloat.

I had tried to keep the plan as secret as possible, and had requested

to have no definite orders, until we should be on board ship. But this

larger expedition was less within my own hands than was the St. Mary's

affair, and the great reliance for concealment was on certain counter

reports, ingeniously set afloat by some of the Florida men. These

reports rapidly swelled into the most enormous tales, and by the time

they reached the New York newspapers, the expedition was "a great

volcano about bursting, whose lava will burn, flow, and destroy," "the

sudden appearance in arms of no less than five thousand negroes,"

"a liberating host," "not the phantom, but the reality, of servile

insurrection." What the undertaking actually was may be best seen in the

instructions which guided it.*

* HEAD-QUARTERS, BEAUFORT, S. C.,

March 5, 1863.

COLONEL,--You will please proceed with your command, the First and

Second Regiments South Carolina Volunteers, which are now embarked upon

the steamers John Adams, Boston, and Burn-side, to Fernandina, Florida.

Relying upon your military skill and judgment. I shall give you no

special directions as to your procedure after you leave Fernandina.

I expect, however, that you will occupy Jacksonville, Florida, and

intrench yourselves there.

The main objects of your expedition are to carry the proclamation of

freedom to the enslaved; to call all loyal men into the service of the

United States; to occupy as much of the State of Florida as possible

with the forces under your command; and to neglect no means consistent

with the usages of civilized warfare to weaken, harass, and annoy those

who are in rebellion against the Government of the United States.

Trusting that the blessing of our Heavenly Father will rest upon your

noble enterprise,

I am yours, sincerely,

R. SAXTON,

Brig.-Gen., Mil. Gov. Dept. of the South. Colonel Higginson, Comdg.

Expeditionary Corps.

In due time, after touching at Fernandina, we reached the difficult

bar of the St. John's, and were piloted safely over. Admiral Dupont had

furnished a courteous letter of introduction.* and we were cordially

received by Commander Duncan of the Norwich, and Lieutenant Watson,

commanding the Uncas. Like all officers on blockade duty, they were

impatient of their enforced inaction, and gladly seized the opportunity

for a different service. It was some time since they had ascended as

high as Jacksonville, for their orders were strict, one vessel's coal

was low, the other was in infirm condition, and there were rumors of

cotton-clads and torpedoes. But they gladly agreed to escort us up

the river, so soon as our own armed gunboat, the John Adams, should

arrive,--she being unaccountably delayed.

FLAG SHIP WABASH,

PORT ROYAL HARBOR, S. C., March 6, 1863. SIR,--I am informed by

Major-General Hunter that he is sending Colonel Higginson on an

important mission in the southerly part of his Department.

I have not been made acquainted with the objects of this mission, but

any assistance that you can offer Colonel Higginson, which will not

interfere with your other duties, you are authorized to give.

Respectfully your obedient servant,

S. F. DUPONT, Rear-Adm. Comdg. S. Atl. Block. Squad.

To the Senior Officer at the different Blockading Stations on the Coast

of Georgia and Florida.

We waited twenty-four hours for her, at the sultry mouth of that glassy

river, watching the great pelicans which floated lazily on its tide, or

sometimes shooting one, to admire the great pouch, into which one of

the soldiers could insert his foot, as into a boot. "He hold one quart,"

said the admiring experimentalist. "Hi! boy," retorted another quickly,

"neber you bring dat quart measure in _my_ peck o' corn." The protest

came very promptly, and was certainly fair; for the strange receptacle

would have held nearly a gallon.

We went on shore, too, and were shown a rather pathetic little garden,

which the naval officers had laid out, indulging a dream of vegetables.

They lingered over the little microscopic sprouts, pointing them out

tenderly, as if they were cradled babies. I have often noticed this

touching weakness, in gentlemen of that profession, on lonely stations.

We wandered among the bluffs, too, in the little deserted hamlet called

"Pilot Town." The ever-shifting sand had in some cases almost buried

the small houses, and had swept around others a circular drift, at a few

yards' distance, overtopping then: eaves, and leaving each the untouched

citadel of this natural redoubt. There was also a dismantled lighthouse,

an object which always seems the most dreary symbol of the barbarism

of war, when one considers the national beneficence which reared and

kindled it. Despite the service rendered by this once brilliant light,

there were many wrecks which had been strown upon the beach, victims of

the most formidable of the Southern river-bars. As I stood with my foot

on the half-buried ribs of one of these vessels,--so distinctly traced

that one might almost fancy them human,--the old pilot, my companion,

told me the story of the wreck. The vessel had formerly been in the

Cuba trade; and her owner, an American merchant residing in Havana,

had christened her for his young daughter. I asked the name, and was

startled to recognize that of a favorite young cousin of mine, besides

the bones of whose representative I was thus strangely standing, upon

this lonely shore.

It was well to have something to relieve the anxiety naturally felt at

the delay of the John Adams,--anxiety both for her safety and for the

success of our enterprise, The Rebels had repeatedly threatened to

burn the whole of Jacksonville, in case of another attack, as they had

previously burned its mills and its great hotel. It seemed as if the

news of our arrival must surely have travelled thirty miles by this

time. All day we watched every smoke that rose among the wooded hills,

and consulted the compass and the map, to see if that sign announced the

doom of our expected home. At the very last moment of the tide, just

in time to cross the bar that day, the missing vessel arrived; all

anxieties vanished; I transferred my quarters on board, and at two the

next morning we steamed up the river.

Again there was the dreamy delight of ascending an unknown stream,

beneath a sinking moon, into a region where peril made fascination.

Since the time of the first explorers, I suppose that those Southern

waters have known no sensations so dreamy and so bewitching as those

which this war has brought forth. I recall, in this case, the faintest

sensations of our voyage, as Ponce de Leon may have recalled those

of his wandering search, in the same soft zone, for the secret of the

mystic fountain. I remember how, during that night, I looked for the

first time through a powerful night-glass. It had always seemed a thing

wholly inconceivable, that a mere lens could change darkness into light;

and as I turned the instrument on the preceding gunboat, and actually

discerned the man at the wheel and the others standing about him,--all

relapsing into vague gloom again at the withdrawal of the glass,--it

gave a feeling of childish delight. Yet it seemed only in keeping

with the whole enchantment of the scene; and had I been some Aladdin,

convoyed by genii or giants, I could hardly have felt more wholly a

denizen of some world of romance.

But the river was of difficult navigation; and we began to feel

sometimes, beneath the keel, that ominous, sliding, grating, treacherous

arrest of motion which makes the heart shudder, as the vessel does.

There was some solicitude about torpedoes, also,--a peril which became

a formidable thing, one year later, in the very channel where we found

none. Soon one of our consorts grounded, then another, every vessel

taking its turn, I believe, and then in turn getting off, until the

Norwich lay hopelessly stranded, for that tide at least, a few miles

below Jacksonville, and out of sight of the city, so that she could not

even add to our dignity by her visible presence from afar.

This was rather a serious matter, as the Norwich was our main naval

reliance, the Uncas being a small steamer of less than two hundred tons,

and in such poor condition that Commander Duncan, on finding himself

aground, at first quite declined to trust his consort any farther alone.

But, having got thus far, it was plainly my duty to risk the remainder

with or without naval assistance; and this being so, the courageous

officer did not long object, but allowed his dashing subordinate to

steam up with us to the city. This left us one naval and one army

gunboat; and, fortunately, the Burn-side, being a black propeller,

always passed for an armed vessel among the Rebels, and we rather

encouraged that pleasing illusion.

We had aimed to reach Jacksonville at daybreak; but these mishaps

delayed us, and we had several hours of fresh, early sunshine, lighting

up the green shores of that lovely river, wooded to the water's edge,

with sometimes an emerald meadow, opening a vista to some picturesque

house,--all utterly unlike anything we had yet seen in the South, and

suggesting rather the Penobscot or Kennebec. Here and there we glided

by the ruins of some saw-mill burned by the Rebels on General Wright's

approach; but nothing else spoke of war, except, perhaps, the silence.

It was a delicious day, and a scene of fascination. Our Florida men were

wild with delight; and when we rounded the point below the city, and saw

from afar its long streets, its brick warehouses, its white cottages,

and its overshadowing trees,--all peaceful and undisturbed by

flames,--it seemed, in the men's favorite phrase, "too much good," and

all discipline was merged, for the moment, in a buzz of ecstasy.

The city was still there for us, at any rate; though none knew what

perils might be concealed behind those quiet buildings. Yet there were

children playing on the wharves; careless men, here and there, lounged

down to look at us, hands in pockets; a few women came to their doors,

and gazed listlessly upon us, shading their eyes with their hands. We

drew momently nearer, in silence and with breathless attention. The

gunners were at their posts, and the men in line. It was eight o'clock.

We were now directly opposite the town: yet no sign of danger was seen;

not a rifle-shot was heard; not a shell rose hissing in the air.

The Uncas rounded to, and dropped anchor in the stream; by previous

agreement, I steamed to an upper pier of the town, Colonel Montgomery

to a lower one; the little boat-howitzers were run out upon the wharves,

and presently to the angles of the chief streets; and the pretty town

was our own without a shot. In spite of our detention, the surprise had

been complete, and not a soul in Jacksonville had dreamed of our coming.

The day passed quickly, in eager preparations for defence; the people

could or would give us no definite information about the Rebel camp,

which was, however, known to be near, and our force did not permit our

going out to surprise it. The night following was the most anxious I

ever spent. We were all tired out; the companies were under arms, in

various parts of the town, to be ready for an attack at any moment. My

temporary quarters were beneath the loveliest grove of linden-trees,

and as I reclined, half-dozing, the mocking-birds sang all night like

nightingales,--their notes seeming to trickle down through the sweet air

from amid the blossoming boughs. Day brought relief and the sense of due

possession, and we could see what we had won.

Jacksonville was now a United States post again: the only post on the

main-land in the Department of the South. Before the war it had three or

four thousand inhabitants, and a rapidly growing lumber-trade, for which

abundant facilities were evidently provided. The wharves were capacious,

and the blocks of brick warehouses along the lower street were utterly

unlike anything we had yet seen in that region, as were the neatness and

thrift everywhere visible. It had been built up by Northern enterprise,

and much of the property was owned by loyal men. It had been a great

resort for invalids, though the Rebels had burned the large hotel

which once accommodated them. Mills had also been burned; but the

dwelling-houses were almost all in good condition. The quarters for the

men were admirable; and I took official possession of the handsome brick

house of Colonel Sunder-land, the established head-quarters through

every occupation, whose accommodating flag-staff had literally and

repeatedly changed its colors. The seceded Colonel, reputed author of

the State ordinance of Secession, was a New-Yorker by birth, and we

found his law-card, issued when in practice in Easton, Washington

County, New York. He certainly had good taste in planning the inside of

a house, though time had impaired its condition. There was a neat office

with ample bookcases and no books, a billiard-table with no balls,

gas-fixtures without gas, and a bathing-room without water. There was

a separate building for servants' quarters, and a kitchen with every

convenience, even to a few jars of lingering pickles. On the whole,

there was an air of substance and comfort about the town, quite alien

from the picturesque decadence of Beaufort.

The town rose gradually from the river, and was bounded on the rear by a

long, sluggish creek, beyond which lay a stretch of woods, affording an

excellent covert for the enemy, but without great facilities for attack,

as there were but two or three fords and bridges. This brook could

easily be held against a small force, but could at any time and at

almost any point be readily crossed by a large one. North of the town

the land rose a little, between the river and the sources of the brook,

and then sank to a plain, which had been partially cleared by a previous

garrison. For so small a force as ours, however, this clearing must be

extended nearer to the town; otherwise our lines would be too long for

our numbers.

This deficiency in numbers at once became a source of serious anxiety.

While planning the expedition, it had seemed so important to get the men

a foothold in Florida that I was willing to risk everything for it.

But this important post once in our possession, it began to show

some analogies to the proverbial elephant in the lottery. To hold it

permanently with nine hundred men was not, perhaps, impossible, with the

aid of a gunboat (I had left many of my own regiment sick and on duty

in Beaufort, and Colonel Montgomery had as yet less than one hundred and

fifty); but to hold it, and also to make forays up the river, certainly

required a larger number. We came in part to recruit, but had found

scarcely an able-bodied negro in the city; all had been removed farther

up, and we must certainly contrive to follow them. I was very unwilling

to have, as yet, any white troops under my command, with the blacks.

Finally, however, being informed by Judge S. of a conversation with

Colonel Hawley, commanding at Fernandina, in which the latter had

offered to send four companies and a light battery to swell our

force,--in view of the aid given to his position by this more advanced

post, I decided to authorize the energetic Judge to go back to

Fernandina and renew the negotiation, as the John Adams must go thither

at any rate for coal.

Meanwhile all definite display of our force was avoided; dress-parades

were omitted; the companies were so distributed as to tell for the

utmost; and judicious use was made, here and there, of empty tents. The

gunboats and transports moved impressively up and down the river,

from time to time. The disposition of pickets was varied each night to

perplex the enemy, and some advantage taken of his distrust, which might

be assumed as equalling our own. The citizens were duly impressed by our

supply of ammunition, which was really enormous, and all these things

soon took effect. A loyal woman, who came into town, said that the Rebel

scouts, stopping at her house, reported that there were "sixteen hundred

negroes all over the woods, and the town full of them besides." "It was

of no use to go in. General Finnegan had driven them into a bad place

once, and should not do it again." "They had lost their captain and

their best surgeon in the first skirmish, and if the Savannah people

wanted the negroes driven away, they might come and do it themselves."

Unfortunately, we knew that they could easily come from Savannah at any

time, as there was railroad communication nearly all the way; and

every time we heard the steam-whistle, the men were convinced of their

arrival. Thus we never could approach to any certainty as to their

numbers, while they could observe, from the bluffs, every steamboat that

ascended the river.

To render our weak force still more available, we barricaded the

approaches to the chief streets by constructing barriers or felling

trees. It went to my heart to sacrifice, for this purpose, several of my

beautiful lindens; but it was no time for aesthetics. As the giants lay

on the ground, still scenting the air with their abundant bloom, I used

to rein up my horse and watch the children playing hide-and-seek amongst

their branches, or some quiet cow grazing at the foliage. Nothing

impresses the mind in war like some occasional object or association

that belongs apparently to peace alone.

Among all these solicitudes, it was a great thing that one particular

anxiety vanished in a day. On the former expedition the men were upon

trial as to their courage; now they were to endure another test, as to

their demeanor as victors. Here were five hundred citizens, nearly all

white, at the mercy of their former slaves. To some of these whites it

was the last crowning humiliation, and they were, or professed to be,

in perpetual fear. On the other hand, the most intelligent and lady-like

woman I saw, the wife of a Rebel captain, rather surprised me by saying

that it seemed pleasanter to have these men stationed there, whom they

had known all their lives, and who had generally borne a good character,

than to be in the power of entire strangers. Certainly the men deserved

the confidence, for there was scarcely an exception to their good

behavior. I think they thoroughly felt that their honor and dignity were

concerned in the matter, and took too much pride in their character

as soldiers,--to say nothing of higher motives,--to tarnish it by any

misdeeds. They watched their officers vigilantly and even suspiciously,

to detect any disposition towards compromise; and so long as we pursued

a just course it was evident that they could be relied on. Yet the

spot was pointed out to me where two of our leading men had seen their

brothers hanged by Lynch law; many of them had private wrongs to avenge;

and they all had utter disbelief in all pretended loyalty, especially on

the part of the women.

One citizen alone was brought to me in a sort of escort of honor by

Corporal Prince Lambkin,--one of the color-guard, and one of our ablest

men,--the same who had once made a speech in camp, reminding his hearers

that they had lived under the American flag for eighteen hundred and

sixty-two years, and ought to live and die under it. Corporal Lambkin

now introduced his man, a German, with the highest compliment in his

power, "He hab true colored-man heart." Surrounded by mean, cajoling,

insinuating white men and women who were all that and worse, I was quite

ready to appreciate the quality he thus proclaimed. A colored-man heart,

in the Rebel States, is a fair synonyme for a loyal heart, and it is

about the only such synonyme. In this case, I found afterwards that the

man in question, a small grocer, had been an object of suspicion to the

whites from his readiness to lend money to the negroes, or sell to

them on credit; in which, perhaps, there may have been some mixture of

self-interest with benevolence.

I resort to a note-book of that period, well thumbed and pocket-worn,

which sometimes received a fragment of the day's experience.

"March 16, 1863.

"Of course, droll things are constantly occurring. Every white

man, woman, and child is flattering, seductive, and professes Union

sentiment; every black ditto believes that every white ditto is a

scoundrel, and ought to be shot, but for good order and military

discipline. The Provost Marshal and I steer between them as blandly as

we can. Such scenes as succeed each other! Rush of indignant Africans.

A white man, in woman's clothes, has been seen to enter a certain

house,--undoubtedly a spy. Further evidence discloses the Roman

Catholic priest, a peaceful little Frenchman, in his professional

apparel.--Anxious female enters. Some sentinel has shot her cow by

mistake for a Rebel. The United States cannot think of paying the

desired thirty dollars. Let her go to the Post-Quartermaster and select

a cow from his herd. If there is none to suit her (and, indeed, not one

of them gave a drop of milk,--neither did hers), let her wait till

the next lot comes in,--that is all.--Yesterday's operations gave the

following total yield: Thirty 'contrabands,' eighteen horses, eleven

cattle, ten saddles and bridles, and one new army-wagon. At this rate we

shall soon be self-supporting _cavalry_.

"Where complaints are made of the soldiers, it almost always turns out

that the women have insulted them most grossly, swearing at them, and

the like. One unpleasant old Dutch woman came in, bursting with wrath,

and told the whole narrative of her blameless life, diversified with

sobs:--

"'Last January I ran off two of my black people from St. Mary's to

Fernandina,' (sob,)--'then I moved down there myself, and at Lake City I

lost six women and a boy,' (sob,)--'then I stopped at Baldwin for one

of the wenches to be confined,' (sob,)--'then I brought them all here

to live in a Christian country' (sob, sob). "Then the blockheads'

[blockades, that is, gunboats] 'came, and they all ran off with the

blockheads,' (sob, sob, sob,) 'and left me, an old lady of forty-six,

obliged to work for a living.' (Chaos of sobs, without cessation.)

"But when I found what the old sinner had said to the soldiers I rather

wondered at their self-control in not throttling her."

Meanwhile skirmishing went on daily in the outskirts of the town.

There was a fight on the very first day, when our men killed, as before

hinted, a Rebel surgeon, which was oddly metamorphosed in the Southern

newspapers into their killing one of ours, which certainly never

happened. Every day, after this, they appeared in small mounted squads

in the neighborhood, and exchanged shots with our pickets, to which the

gunboats would contribute their louder share, their aim being rather

embarrassed by the woods and hills. We made reconnoissances, too, to

learn the country in different directions, and were apt to be fired upon

during these. Along the farther side of what we called the "Debatable

Land" there was a line of cottages, hardly superior to negro huts,

and almost all empty, where the Rebel pickets resorted, and from whose

windows they fired. By degrees all these nests were broken up and

destroyed, though it cost some trouble to do it, and the hottest

skirmishing usually took place around them.

Among these little affairs was one which we called "Company K's

Skirmish," because it brought out the fact that this company, which was

composed entirely of South Carolina men, and had never shone in drill

or discipline, stood near the head of the regiment for coolness and

courage,--the defect of discipline showing itself only in their extreme

unwillingness to halt when once let loose. It was at this time that the

small comedy of the Goose occurred,--an anecdote which Wendell Phillips

has since made his own.

One of the advancing line of skirmishers, usually an active fellow

enough, was observed to move clumsily and irregularly. It soon appeared

that he had encountered a fine specimen of the domestic goose, which had

surrendered at discretion. Not wishing to lose it, he could yet find no

way to hold it but between his legs; and so he went on, loading, firing,

advancing, halting, always with the goose writhing and struggling and

hissing in this natural pair of stocks. Both happily came off unwounded,

and retired in good order at the signal, or some time after it; but I

have hardly a cooler thing to put on record.

Meanwhile, another fellow left the field less exultingly; for, after a

thoroughly courageous share in the skirmish, he came blubbering to his

captain, and said,--"Cappen, make Caesar gib me my cane." It seemed

that, during some interval of the fighting, he had helped himself to an

armful of Rebel sugar-cane, such as they all delighted in chewing. The

Roman hero, during another pause, had confiscated the treasure; whence

these tears of the returning warrior. I never could accustom myself to

these extraordinary interminglings of manly and childish attributes.

Our most untiring scout during this period was the chaplain of my

regiment,--the most restless and daring spirit we had, and now exulting

in full liberty of action. He it was who was daily permitted to

stray singly where no other officer would have been allowed to go, so

irresistible was his appeal, "You know I am only a chaplain." Methinks I

see our regimental saint, with pistols in belt and a Ballard rifle slung

on shoulder, putting spurs to his steed, and cantering away down some

questionable wood-path, or returning with some tale of Rebel haunt

discovered, or store of foraging. He would track an enemy like an

Indian, or exhort him, when apprehended, like an early Christian. Some

of our devout soldiers shook their heads sometimes over the chaplain's

little eccentricities. "Woffor Mr. Chapman made a preacher for?" said

one of them, as usual transforming his title into a patronymic. "He's

_de fightingest more Yankee_ I eber see in all my days."

And the criticism was very natural, though they could not deny that,

when the hour for Sunday service came, Mr. F. commanded the respect and

attention of all. That hour never came, however, on our first Sunday

in Jacksonville; we were too busy and the men too scattered; so the

chaplain made his accustomed foray beyond the lines instead.

"Is it not Sunday?" slyly asked an unregenerate lieutenant. "Nay," quoth

his Reverence, waxing fervid; "it is the Day of Judgment"

This reminds me of a raid up the river, conducted by one of our senior

captains, an enthusiast whose gray beard and prophetic manner always

took me back to the Fifth-Monarchy men. He was most successful that day,

bringing back horses, cattle, provisions, and prisoners; and one of the

latter complained bitterly to me of being held, stating that Captain R.

had promised him speedy liberty. But that doughty official spurned

the imputation of such weak blandishments, in this day of triumphant

retribution.

"Promise him!" said he, "I promised him nothing but the Day of Judgment

and Periods of Damnation!"

Often since have I rolled beneath my tongue this savory and solemn

sentence, and I do not believe that since the days of the Long

Parliament there has been a more resounding anathema.

In Colonel Montgomery's hands these up-river raids reached the dignity

of a fine art. His conceptions of foraging were rather more Western and

liberal than mine, and on these excursions he fully indemnified himself

for any undue abstinence demanded of him when in camp. I remember being

on the wharf, with some naval officers, when he came down from his first

trip. The steamer seemed an animated hen-coop. Live poultry hung from

the foremast shrouds, dead ones from the mainmast, geese hissed from

the binnacle, a pig paced the quarter-deck, and a duck's wings were

seen fluttering from a line which was wont to sustain duck trousers. The

naval heroes, mindful of their own short rations, and taking high views

of one's duties in a conquered country, looked at me reproachfully,

as who should say, "Shall these things be?" In a moment or two the

returning foragers had landed.

"Captain ----," said Montgomery, courteously, "would you allow me to

send a remarkably fine turkey for your use on board ship?"

"Lieutenant ----," said Major Corwin, "may I ask your acceptance of a

pair of ducks for your mess?"

Never did I behold more cordial relations between army and navy than

sprang into existence at those sentences. So true it is, as Charles

Lamb says, that a single present of game may diffuse kindly sentiments

through a whole community. These little trips were called "rest"; there

was no other rest during those ten days. An immense amount of picket and

fatigue duty had to be done. Two redoubts were to be built to command

the Northern Valley; all the intervening grove, which now afforded

lurking-ground for a daring enemy, must be cleared away; and a few

houses must be reluctantly razed for the same purpose. The fort on the

left was named Fort Higginson, and that built by my own regiment, in

return, Fort Montgomery. The former was necessarily a hasty work, and

is now, I believe, in ruins; the latter was far more elaborately

constructed, on lines well traced by the Fourth New Hampshire during the

previous occupation. It did great credit to Captain Trowbridge, of my

regiment (formerly of the New York Volunteer Engineers), who had charge

of its construction.

How like a dream seems now that period of daily skirmishes and nightly

watchfulness! The fatigue was so constant that the days hurried by.

I felt the need of some occasional change of ideas, and having just

received from the North Mr. Brook's beautiful translation of Jean Paul's

"Titan," I used to retire to my bedroom for some ten minutes every

afternoon, and read a chapter or two. It was more refreshing than a nap,

and will always be to me one of the most fascinating books in the world,

with this added association. After all, what concerned me was not so

much the fear of an attempt to drive us out and retake the city,--for

that would be against the whole policy of the Rebels in that region,--as

of an effort to fulfil their threats and burn it, by some nocturnal

dash. The most valuable buildings belonged to Union men, and the upper

part of the town, built chiefly of resinous pine, was combustible to

the last degree. In case of fire, if the wind blew towards the river,

we might lose steamers and all. I remember regulating my degree of

disrobing by the direction of the wind; if it blew from the river, it

was safe to make one's self quite comfortable; if otherwise, it was best

to conform to Suwarrow's idea of luxury, and take off one spur.

So passed our busy life for ten days. There were no tidings of

reinforcements, and I hardly knew whether I wished for them,--or rather,

I desired them as a choice of evils; for our men were giving out from

overwork, and the recruiting excursions, for which we had mainly come,

were hardly possible. At the utmost, I had asked for the addition

of four companies and a light battery. Judge of my surprise when two

infantry regiments successively arrived! I must resort to a scrap from

the diary. Perhaps diaries are apt to be thought tedious; but I would

rather read a page of one, whatever the events described, than any more

deliberate narrative,--it gives glimpses so much more real and vivid.

"HEAD-QUARTERS, JACKSONVILLE,

"March 20, 1863, Midnight.

"For the last twenty-four hours we have been sending women and children

out of town, in answer to a demand by flag of truce, with a threat of

bombardment. [N. B. I advised them not to go, and the majority declined

doing so.] It was designed, no doubt, to intimidate; and in our

ignorance of the force actually outside, we have had to recognize the

possibility of danger, and work hard at our defences. At any time, by

going into the outskirts, we can have a skirmish, which is nothing but

fun; but when night closes in over a small and weary garrison, there

sometimes steals into my mind, like a chill, that most sickening of all

sensations, the anxiety of a commander. This was the night generally set

for an attack, if any, though I am pretty well satisfied that they have

not strength to dare it, and the worst they could probably do is to burn

the town. But to-night, instead of enemies, appear friends,--our devoted

civic ally, Judge S., and a whole Connecticut regiment, the Sixth, under

Major Meeker; and though the latter are aground, twelve miles below, yet

they enable one to breathe more freely. I only wish they were black; but

now I have to show, not only that blacks can fight, but that they and

white soldiers can act in harmony together."

That evening the enemy came up for a reconnoissance, in the deepest

darkness, and there were alarms all night. The next day the Sixth

Connecticut got afloat, and came up the river; and two days after, to

my continued amazement, arrived a part of the Eighth Maine, under

Lieutenant-Colonel Twichell. This increased my command to four

regiments, or parts of regiments, half white and half black. Skirmishing

had almost ceased,--our defences being tolerably complete, and looking

from without much more effective than they really were. We were safe

from any attack by a small force, and hoped that the enemy could

not spare a large one from Charleston or Savannah. All looked bright

without, and gave leisure for some small anxieties within.

It was the first time in the war (so far as I know) that white and black

soldiers had served together on regular duty. Jealousy was still felt

towards even the officers of colored regiments, and any difficult

contingency would be apt to bring it out. The white soldiers, just from

ship-board, felt a natural desire to stray about the town; and no attack

from an enemy would be so disastrous as the slightest collision between

them and the black provost-guard. I shudder, even now, to think of

the train of consequences, bearing on the whole course of subsequent

national events, which one such mishap might then have produced. It is

almost impossible for us now to remember in what a delicate balance

then hung the whole question of negro enlistments, and consequently

of Slavery. Fortunately for my own serenity, I had great faith in the

intrinsic power of military discipline, and also knew that a common

service would soon produce mutual respect among good soldiers; and so

it proved. But the first twelve hours of this mixed command were to me a

more anxious period than any outward alarms had created.

Let us resort to the note-book again.

"JACKSONVILLE, March 22, 1863.

"It is Sunday; the bell is ringing for church, and Rev. Mr. F.,

from Beaufort, is to preach. This afternoon our good quartermaster

establishes a Sunday-school for our little colony of 'contrabands,' now

numbering seventy.

"Sunday Afternoon.

"The bewildering report is confirmed; and in addition to the Sixth

Connecticut, which came yesterday, appears part of the Eighth Maine. The

remainder, with its colonel, will be here to-morrow, and, report says,

Major-General Hunter. Now my hope is that we may go to some point higher

up the river, which we can hold for ourselves. There are two other

points [Magnolia and Pilatka], which, in themselves, are as favorable as

this, and, for getting recruits, better. So I shall hope to be allowed

to go. To take posts, and then let white troops garrison them,--that is

my programme.

"What makes the thing more puzzling is, that the Eighth Maine has only

brought ten days' rations, so that they evidently are not to stay here;

and yet where they go, or why they come, is a puzzle. Meanwhile we can

sleep sound o' nights; and if the black and white babies do not quarrel

and pull hair, we shall do very well."

Colonel Rust, on arriving, said frankly that he knew nothing of

the plans prevailing in the Department, but that General Hunter was

certainly coming soon to act for himself; that it had been reported at

the North, and even at Port Royal, that we had all been captured and

shot (and, indeed, I had afterwards the pleasure of reading my own

obituary in a Northern Democratic journal), and that we certainly needed

reinforcements; that he himself had been sent with orders to carry

out, so far as possible, the original plans of the expedition; that

he regarded himself as only a visitor, and should remain chiefly on

shipboard,--which he did. He would relieve the black provost-guard by

a white one, if I approved,--which I certainly did. But he said that

he felt bound to give the chief opportunities of action to the colored

troops,--which I also approved, and which he carried out, not quite to

the satisfaction of his own eager and daring officers.

I recall one of these enterprises, out of which we extracted a good deal

of amusement; it was baptized the Battle of the Clothes-Lines. A white

company was out scouting in the woods behind the town, with one of my

best Florida men for a guide; and the captain sent back a message that

he had discovered a Rebel camp with twenty-two tents, beyond a creek,

about four miles away; the officers and men had been distinctly seen,

and it would be quite possible to capture it. Colonel Rust at once

sent me out with two hundred men to do the work, recalling the original

scouts, and disregarding the appeals of his own eager officers. We

marched through the open pine woods, on a delightful afternoon, and met

the returning party. Poor fellows! I never shall forget the longing eyes

they cast on us, as we marched forth to the field of glory, from which

they were debarred. We went three or four miles out, sometimes halting

to send forward a scout, while I made all the men lie down in the long,

thin grass and beside the fallen trees, till one could not imagine that

there was a person there. I remember how picturesque the effect was,

when, at the signal, all rose again, like Roderick Dhu's men, and the

green wood appeared suddenly populous with armed life. At a certain

point forces were divided, and a detachment was sent round the head of

the creek, to flank the unsuspecting enemy; while we of the main body,

stealing with caution nearer and nearer, through ever denser woods,

swooped down at last in triumph upon a solitary farmhouse,--where the

family-washing had been hung out to dry! This was the "Rebel camp"!

It is due to Sergeant Greene, my invaluable guide, to say that he had

from the beginning discouraged any high hopes of a crossing of bayonets.

He had early explained that it was not he who claimed to have seen the

tents and the Rebel soldiers, but one of the officers,--and had pointed

out that our undisturbed approach was hardly reconcilable with the

existence of a hostile camp so near. This impression had also pressed

more and more upon my own mind, but it was our business to put the thing

beyond a doubt. Probably the place may have been occasionally used for

a picket-station, and we found fresh horse-tracks in the vicinity, and

there was a quantity of iron bridle-bits in the house, of which no clear

explanation could be given; so that the armed men may not have been

wholly imaginary. But camp there was none. After enjoying to the utmost

the fun of the thing, therefore, we borrowed the only horse on the

premises, hung all the bits over his neck, and as I rode him back to

camp, they clanked like broken chains. We were joined on the way by our

dear and devoted surgeon, whom I had left behind as an invalid, but who

had mounted his horse and ridden out alone to attend to our wounded,

his green sash looking quite in harmony with the early spring verdure

of those lovely woods. So came we back in triumph, enjoying the joke all

the more because some one else was responsible. We mystified the little

community at first, but soon let out the secret, and witticisms abounded

for a day or two, the mildest of which was the assertion that the author

of the alarm must have been "three sheets in the wind."

Another expedition was of more exciting character. For several days

before the arrival of Colonel Rust a reconnaissance had been planned in

the direction of the enemy's camp, and he finally consented to its being

carried out. By the energy of Major Corwin, of the Second South Carolina

Volunteers, aided by Mr. Holden, then a gunner on the Paul Jones, and

afterwards made captain of the same regiment, one of the ten-pound

Parrott guns had been mounted on a hand-car, for use on the railway.

This it was now proposed to bring into service. I took a large detail of

men from the two white regiments and from my own, and had instructions

to march as far as the four-mile station on the railway, if possible,

examine the country, and ascertain if the Rebel camp had been removed,

as was reported, beyond that distance. I was forbidden going any farther

from camp, or attacking the Rebel camp, as my force comprised half our

garrison, and should the town meanwhile be attacked from some other

direction, it would be in great danger.

I never shall forget the delight of that march through the open pine

barren, with occasional patches of uncertain swamp. The Eighth Maine,

under Lieutenant-Colonel Twichell, was on the right, the Sixth

Connecticut, under Major Meeker, on the left, and my own men, under

Major Strong, in the centre, having in charge the cannon, to which they

had been trained. Mr. Heron, from the John Adams, acted as gunner.

The mounted Rebel pickets retired before us through the woods, keeping

usually beyond range of the skirmishers, who in a long line--white,

black, white--were deployed transversely. For the first time I saw the

two colors fairly alternate on the military chessboard; it had been the

object of much labor and many dreams, and I liked the pattern at last.

Nothing was said about the novel fact by anybody,--it all seemed to come

as matter-of-course; there appeared to be no mutual distrust among the

men, and as for the officers, doubtless "each crow thought its own young

the whitest,"--I certainly did, although doing full justice to the eager

courage of the Northern portion of my command. Especially I watched with

pleasure the fresh delight of the Maine men, who had not, like the rest,

been previously in action, and who strode rapidly on with their long

legs, irresistibly recalling, as their gaunt, athletic frames and

sunburnt faces appeared here and there among the pines, the lumber

regions of their native State, with which I was not unfamiliar.

We passed through a former camp of the Rebels, from which everything

had been lately removed; but when the utmost permitted limits of our

reconnoissance were reached, there were still no signs of any other

camp, and the Rebel cavalry still kept provokingly before us. Their

evident object was to lure us on to their own stronghold, and had we

fallen into the trap, it would perhaps have resembled, on a smaller

scale, the Olustee of the following year. With a good deal of

reluctance, however, I caused the recall to be sounded, and, after a

slight halt, we began to retrace our steps.

Straining our eyes to look along the reach of level railway which

stretched away through the pine barren, we began to see certain ominous

puffs of smoke, which might indeed proceed from some fire in the woods,

but were at once set down by the men as coming from the mysterious

locomotive battery which the Rebels were said to have constructed.

Gradually the smoke grew denser, and appeared to be moving up along

the track, keeping pace with our motion, and about two miles distant.

I watched it steadily through a field-glass from our own slowly moving

battery: it seemed to move when we moved and to halt when we halted.

Sometimes in the dun smoke I caught a glimpse of something blacker,

raised high in the air like the threatening head of some great gliding

serpent. Suddenly there came a sharp puff of lighter smoke that seemed

like a forked tongue, and then a hollow report, and we could see a great

black projectile hurled into the air, and falling a quarter of a mile

away from us, in the woods. I did not at once learn that this first shot

killed two of the Maine men, and wounded two more. This was fired wide,

but the numerous shots which followed were admirably aimed, and seldom

failed to fall or explode close to our own smaller battery.

It was the first time that the men had been seriously exposed to

artillery fire,--a danger more exciting to the ignorant mind than

any other, as this very war has shown.* So I watched them anxiously.

Fortunately there were deep trenches on each side the railway, with many

stout, projecting roots, forming very tolerable bomb-proofs for those

who happened to be near them. The enemy's gun was a sixty-four-pound

Blakely, as we afterward found, whose enormous projectile moved

very slowly and gave ample time to cover,--insomuch, that, while the

fragments of shell fell all around and amongst us, not a man was hurt.

This soon gave the men the most buoyant confidence, and they shouted

with childish delight over every explosion.

*Take this for example: "The effect was electrical. The Rebels were

the best men in Ford's command, being Lieutenant-Colonel Showalter's

Californians, and they are brave men. They had dismounted and sent their

horses to the rear, and were undoubtedly determined upon a desperate

fight, and their superior numbers made them confident of success. But

they never fought with artillery, and a cannon has more terror for them

than ten thousand rifles and all the wild Camanches on the plains

of Texas. At first glimpse of the shining brass monsters there was a

visible wavering in the determined front of the enemy, and as the shells

came screaming over their heads the scare was complete. They broke

ranks, fled for their horses, scrambled on the first that came to hand,

and skedaddled in the direction of Brownsville."_New York Evening Post_,

September 25, 1864.

The moment a shell had burst or fallen unburst, our little gun was

invariably fired in return, and that with some precision, so far as we

could judge, its range also being nearly as great. For some reason they

showed no disposition to overtake us, in which attempt their locomotive

would have given them an immense advantage over our heavy hand-car, and

their cavalry force over our infantry. Nevertheless, I rather hoped that

they would attempt it, for then an effort might have been made to cut

them off in the rear by taking up some rails. As it was, this was out

of the question, though they moved slowly, as we moved, keeping always

about two miles away. When they finally ceased firing we took up

the rails beyond us before withdrawing, and thus kept the enemy from

approaching so near the city again. But I shall never forget that

Dantean monster, rearing its black head amid the distant smoke, nor the

solicitude with which I watched for the puff which meant danger, and

looked round to see if my chickens were all under cover. The greatest

peril, after all, was from the possible dismounting of our gun, in which

case we should have been very apt to lose it, if the enemy had showed

any dash. There may be other such tilts of railway artillery on record

during the war; but if so, I have not happened to read of them, and so

have dwelt the longer on this.

This was doubtless the same locomotive battery which had previously

fired more than once upon the town,--running up within two miles

and then withdrawing, while it was deemed inexpedient to destroy the

railroad, on our part, lest it might be needed by ourselves in turn. One

night, too, the Rebel threat had been fulfilled, and they had shelled

the town with the same battery. They had the range well, and every

shot fell near the post headquarters. It was exciting to see the great

Blakely shell, showing a light as it rose, and moving slowly towards us

like a comet, then exploding and scattering its formidable fragments.

Yet, strange to say, no serious harm was done to life or limb, and the

most formidable casualty was that of a citizen who complained that a

shell had passed through the wall of his bedroom, and carried off his

mosquito curtain in its transit.

Little knew we how soon these small entertainments would be over.

Colonel Montgomery had gone up the river with his two companies, perhaps

to remain permanently; and I was soon to follow. On Friday, March 27th,

I wrote home: "The Burnside has gone to Beaufort for rations, and the

John Adams to Fernandina for coal; we expect both back by Sunday, and on

Monday I hope to get the regiment off to a point farther up,--Magnolia,

thirty-five miles, or Pilatka, seventy-five,--either of which would be

a good post for us. General Hunter is expected every day, and it is

strange he has not come." The very next day came an official order

recalling the whole expedition, and for the third time evacuating

Jacksonville.

A council of military and naval officers was at once called (though

there was but one thing to be done), and the latter were even more

disappointed and amazed than the former. This was especially the case

with the senior naval officer, Captain Steedman, a South-Carolinian by

birth, but who had proved himself as patriotic as he was courteous and

able, and whose presence and advice had been of the greatest value

to me. He and all of us felt keenly the wrongfulness of breaking the

pledges which we had been authorized to make to these people, and of

leaving them to the mercy of the Rebels once more. Most of the people

themselves took the same view, and eagerly begged to accompany us on our

departure. They were allowed to bring their clothing and furniture also,

and at once developed that insane mania for aged and valueless trumpery

which always seizes upon the human race, I believe, in moments of

danger. With the greatest difficulty we selected between the essential

and the non-essential, and our few transports were at length loaded to

the very water's edge on the morning of March 29th,--Colonel Montgomery

having by this time returned from up-river, with sixteen prisoners, and

the fruits of foraging in plenty.

And upon that last morning occurred an act on the part of some of the

garrison most deeply to be regretted, and not to be excused by the

natural indignation at their recall,--an act which, through the

unfortunate eloquence of one newspaper correspondent, rang through the

nation,--the attempt to burn the town. I fortunately need not dwell much

upon it, as I was not at the time in command of the post,--as the white

soldiers frankly took upon themselves the whole responsibility,--and

as all the fires were made in the wooden part of the city, which was

occupied by them, while none were made in the brick part, where the

colored soldiers were quartered. It was fortunate for our reputation

that the newspaper accounts generally agreed in exculpating us from all

share in the matter;* and the single exception, which one correspondent

asserted, I could never verify, and do not believe to have existed.

It was stated by Colonel Rust, in his official report, that some

twenty-five buildings in all were burned, and I doubt if the actual

number was greater; but this was probably owing in part to a change of

wind, and did not diminish the discredit of the transaction. It made

our sorrow at departure no less, though it infinitely enhanced the

impressiveness of the scene.

*"The colored regiments had nothing at all to do with it;

they behaved with propriety throughout" _Boston Journal_

Correspondence. ("Carleton.")

"The negro troops took no part whatever in the perpetration of this

Vandalism."_New York Tribune_ Correspondence. ("N. P.")

"We know not whether we are most rejoiced or saddened to observe, by the

general concurrence of accounts, that the negro soldiers had nothing to

do with the barbarous act" _Boston Journal_ Editorial, April 10, 1863.

The excitement of the departure was intense. The embarkation was so

laborious that it seemed as if the flames must be upon us before we

could get on board, and it was also generally expected that the Rebel

skirmishers would be down among the houses, wherever practicable, to

annoy us to the utmost, as had been the case at the previous evacuation.

They were, indeed, there, as we afterwards heard, but did not venture to

molest us. The sight and roar of the flames, and the rolling clouds of

smoke, brought home to the impressible minds of the black soldiers all

their favorite imagery of the Judgment-Day; and those who were not too

much depressed by disappointment were excited by the spectacle, and sang

and exhorted without ceasing.

With heavy hearts their officers floated down the lovely river, which

we had ascended with hopes so buoyant; and from that day to this, the

reasons for our recall have never been made public. It was commonly

attributed to proslavery advisers, acting on the rather impulsive nature

of Major-General Hunter, with a view to cut short the career of the

colored troops, and stop their recruiting. But it may have been simply

the scarcity of troops in the Department, and the renewed conviction at

head-quarters that we were too few to hold the post alone. The

latter theory was strengthened by the fact that, when General Seymour

reoccupied Jacksonville, the following year, he took with him twenty

thousand men instead of one thousand,--and the sanguinary battle of

Olustee found him with too few.

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