Geography of the Gaboon.
Before going further afield I may be allowed a few observations,
topographical and ethnological, about this highly interesting
section of the West African coast.
The Gaboon country, to retain the now familiar term, although no
one knows much about its derivation, is placed, by old travellers
in "South Guinea," the tract lying along the Ethiopic, or South
Atlantic Ocean, limited by the Camarones Mountain-block in north
latitude 4°, and by Cabo Negro in south latitude 15° 40' 7", a
sea-line of nearly 1,200 miles. The Gaboon proper is included
between the Camarones Mountains to the north, and the
"Mayumba,"properly the "Yumba" country southwards, in south
latitude 3° 22',--a shore upwards of 400 miles long. The inland
depth is undetermined; geographically we should limit it to the
Western Ghats, which rarely recede more than 60 miles from the
sea, and ethnologically no line can yet be drawn. The country is
almost bisected by the equator, and by the Rio de Gabão, which
discharges in north latitude 0° 21' 25" and east longitude 9° 21'
23"; and it corresponds in parallel with the Somali-Galla country
and the Juba River on the east coast.
The general aspect of the region is prepossessing. It is a
rolling surface sinking towards the Atlantic, in parts broken by
hills and dwarf chains, either detached or pushed out by the
Ghats; a land of short and abnormally broad rivers, which cannot,
like the Congo, break through the ridges flanking the Central
African basin, and which therefore are mere surface drains of the
main ranges. The soil is mostly sandy, but a thin coat of rich
vegetable humus, quickened by heavy rains and fiery suns,
produces a luxuriant vegetation; whilst the proportion of area
actually cultivated is nothing compared with the expanse of bush.
In the tall forests, which abound in wild fruits, there are
beautiful tracts of clear grassy land, and the woods, clear of
undergrowth, resemble an English grove more than a tropical
jungle. Horses, which die of the tsetse (Glossina morsitans) in
the interior of North Guinea, and of damp heat at Fernando Po,
thrive on its downs and savannahs. The Elais palm is rare,
sufficing only for home use. The southern parts, about Cape Lopez
and beyond it, resemble the Oil River country in the Biafran
Bight: the land is a mass of mangrove swamps, and the climate is
unfit for white men.
The Eastern Ghats were early known to the "Iberians," as shown by
the Sierra del Crystal, del Sal, del Sal Nitro and other names,
probably so called from the abundance of quartz in blocks and
veins that seam the granite, as we shall see in the Congo
country, and possibly because they contain rock crystal. Although
in many places they may be descried subtending the shore in lumpy
lines like detached vertebræ, and are supposed to represent the
Aranga Mons of Ptolemy, they are not noticed by Barbot. Between
the Camarones River and Cape St. John (Corisco Bay), blue,
rounded, and discontinuous masses, apparently wooded, rise before
the mariner, and form, as will be seen, the western sub-ranges of
the great basin-rim. To the north they probably anastomose with
the Camarones, the Rumbi, the Kwa, the Fumbina north-east, and
the Niger-Kong mountains.[FN#5]
They are not wanting who declare them to be rich in precious
metals. Some thirty years ago an American super-cargo ascended
the Rembwe River, the south-eastern line of the Gaboon fork, and
is said to have collected "dirt" which, tested at New York,
produced 16 dollars per bushel. All the old residents in the
Gaboon know the story of the gold dust. The prospector was the
late Captain Richard E. Lawlin, of New York, who was employed by
Messrs. Bishop of Philadelphia, the same house that commissioned
the chasseur de gorilles to collect "rubber" for them, and who
was so eminently useful to the young French traveller that the
scant notice of his name is considered curious.
Great would be my wonder if the West African as well as the East
African Ghats did not prove auriferous; both fulfil all the
required conditions, and both await actual discovery. The
Mountains of the Moon, so frequently mentioned by M. du Chaillu
and the Gaboon Mission, are doubtless the versants between the
valleys of the Niger and the Congo. Lately Dr. Schweinfurth found
an equatorial range which, stretching northwards towards the Bahr
el Ghazal, was seen to trend westward. According to Mr. Consul
Hutchinson ("Ten Years' Wanderings among the Ethiopians," p.
250), the Rev. Messrs. Mackey and Clemens, of the Corisco Mission
"explored more than a hundred miles of country across the Sierra
del Crystal Range of Mountains" --I am inclined to believe that a
hundred miles from the coast was their furthest point. We shall
presently travel towards this mysterious range, and there is no
difficulty in passing it, except the utter want of a commercial
road, and the wildness of tribes that have never sighted a
traveller nor a civilized man.
The rivers of our region are of three kinds; little surface
drains principally in the north; broad estuaries like the Mersey
and many streams of Eastern Scotland in the central parts, and a
single bed, the Ogobe, breaking through the subtending Ghats, and
forming a huge lagoon-delta. Beginning at Camarones are the Boroa
and Borba Waters, with the Rio de Campo, fifteen leagues further
south; of these little is known, except that they fall into the
Bight of Panari or Pannaria.
According to Barbot (iv. 9), the English charts give the name of
Point Pan to a large deep bight in which lies the harbour-bay
"Porto de Garapo" (Garápa, sugar-cane juice?); and he calls the
two rounded hillocks, extending inland from Point Pan to the
northern banks of the Rio de Campo, "Navia." The un-African word
Panari or Pannaria is probably a corruption of Páo de Nao, the
bay north of Garapo, and "Navia."
These small features are followed by the Rio de São Bento,
improperly called in our charts the St. Benito, Bonito, Bonita,
and Boneto; the native name is Lobei, and it traverses the Kombi
country, --such is the extent of our information. The next is the
well-known Muni, the Ntambounay of M. du Chaillu, generally
called the Danger River, in old charts "Rio de São João," and
"Rio da Angra" (of the bight); an estuary which, like most of its
kind, bifurcates above, and, receiving a number of little
tributaries from the Sierra, forms a broad bed and empties itself
through a mass of mangroves into the innermost north-eastern
corner of Corisco Bay. This sag in the coast is formed by Ninje
(Nenge the island?), or the Cabo de São João (Cape St. John) to
the north, fronted south by a large square-headed block of land,
whose point is called Cabo das Esteiras--of matting (Barbot's
Estyras), an article of trade in the olden time. The southern
part receives the Munda (Moondah) river, a foul and unimportant
stream, which has been occupied by the American missionaries.
We shall ascend the Gaboon estuary to its sources. South of it, a
number of sweet little water-courses break the shore-line as far
as the Nazareth River, which debouches north of Urungu, or Cape
Lopez (Cabo de Lopo Gonsalvez), and which forms by anastomosing
with a southern river the Ogobe (Ogowai of M. du Chaillu), a
complicated delta whose sea-front extends from north to south, at
least eighty miles. Beyond Cape Lopez is an outfall, known to
Europeans as the Rio Mexias: it is apparently a mesh in the net-
work of the Nazareth-Ogobe. The same may be said of the Rio
Fernão Vaz, about 110 miles south of the Gaboon, and of yet
another stream which, running lagoon-like some forty miles along
the shore, has received in our maps the somewhat vague name of R.
Rembo or River River. Orembo (Simpongwe) being the generic term
for a stream or river, is applied emphatically to the Nkomo
branch of the Gaboon, and to the Fernão Vaz.
The Ogobe is the only river between the Niger and the Congo which
escapes, through favouring depressions, from the highlands
flanking the great watery plateau of Inner Africa. By its plainly
marked double seasons of flood at the equinoxes, and by the time
of its low water, we prove that it drains the belt of calms, and
the region immediately upon the equator. The explorations of
Lieutenant Serval and others, in "Le Pionnier" river-steamer,
give it an average breadth of 8,200 feet, though broken by sand-
banks and islands; the depth in the main channel, which at times
is narrow and difficult to find, averages between sixteen and
forty-eight feet; and, in the dry season of 1862, the vessel ran
up sixty English miles.
Before M. du Chaillu's expeditions, "the rivers known to
Europeans," he tells us in his Preface ("First Journey," p. iv.),
"as the Nazareth, Mexias, and Fernam Vaz, were supposed to be
three distinct streams." In 1817 Bowdich identified the "Ogoowai"
with the Congo, and the Rev. Mr. Wilson (p. 284) shows us the
small amount of knowledge that existed even amongst experts, five
years before the "Gorilla book" appeared. "From Cape Lopez, where
the Nazareth debouches, there is a narrow lagoon running along
the sea-coast, and very near to it, all the way to Mayumba. This
lagoon is much traversed by boats and canoes, and, when the
slave-trade was in vigorous operation, it afforded the Portuguese
traders great facilities for eluding the vigilance of British
cruizers, by shifting their slaves from point to point, and
embarking them, according to a preconcerted plan."
M. du Chaillu first proved that the Ogobe was formed by two
forks, the northern, or Rembo Okanda, and the southern, or Rembo
Nguye. The former is the more important. Mr. R.S.N. Walker found
this stream above the confluence to be from 1,800 to 2,100 feet
wide, though half the bed was occupied by bare sand-banks. Higher
up, where rocks and rapids interfered with the boat-voyage, the
current was considerable, but the breadth diminished to 600 feet.
The southern branch (also written Ngunië) was found in Apono Land
(S. lat. 2°), about the breadth of the Thames at London Bridge,
700 feet. In June the depth was ten to fifteen feet, to which the
rainy season added ten.
M. du Chaillu also established the facts that the Nazareth river
was the northern arm of the Delta, and that the Fernão Vaz
anastomosed with the Delta's southern arm.
The only pelagic islands off the Gaboon coast are the Brancas,
Great and Little; Corisco Island, which we shall presently visit;
Great and Little Elobi, called by old travellers Mosquito
Islands, probably for "Moucheron," a Dutchman who lost his ship
there in 1600. The land about the mouths of the Ogobe is a mass
of mangrove swamps, like the Nigerian Delta, which high tides
convert into insular ground; these, however, must be considered
terra firma in its infancy. The riverine islands of the Gaboon
proper will be noticed as we ascend the bed.
Pongo-land ignores all such artificial partitions as districts or
parishes; the only divisions are the countries occupied by the
several tribes.
The Gaboon lies in "Africa-on-the-Line," and a description of the
year at Zanzibar Island applies to it in many points.[FN#6] The
characteristic of this equatorial belt is uniformity of
temperature: whilst the Arabian and the Australian deserts often
show a variation of 50° Fahr. in a single day, the yearly range
of the mercury at Singapore is about 10°. The four seasons of the
temperates are utterly unknown to the heart of the tropics--even
in Hindostan the poet who would sing, for instance, the charms of
spring must borrow the latter word (Buhar) from the Persian. If
the "bull" be allowed, the only rule here appears to be one of
exceptions. The traveller is always assured that this time there
have been no rains, or no dries, or no tornadoes, or one or all
in excess, till at last he comes to the conclusion that the Clerk
of the Weather must have mislaid his ledger. Contrary to the
popular idea, which has descended to us from the classics, the
climate under the Line is not of that torrid heat which a
vertical sun suggests; the burning zone of the Old World begins
in the northern hemisphere, where the regular rains do not
extend, beyond the tenth as far as the twenty-fifth degree. The
equatorial climate is essentially temperate: for instance, the
heat of Sumatra, lying almost under the Line, rarely exceeds 24°
R.= 86° Fahr. In the Gaboon the thermometer ranges from 65° to
90° Fahr., "a degree of heat," says Dr. Ford, "less than in many
salubrious localities in other parts of the world."
Upon the Gaboon the wet seasons are synchronous with the vertical
suns at the vernal and autumnal equinoxes. "The rainy season of a
place within the tropics always begins when the sun has reached
the zenith of that place. Then the tradewinds, blowing regularly
at other seasons, become gradually weaker, and at length cease
and give way to variable winds and calms. The trade-wind no
longer brings its regular supply of cooler, drier air; the rising
heats and calms favour an ascending current" (in the sea-depths,
I may add, as well as on land), "which bears the damp air into
the upper regions of the atmosphere, there to be cooled, and to
occasion the heavy down-pour of each afternoon. The nights and
mornings are for the most part bright and clear. When the sun
moves away from the zenith, the trade-winds again begin to be
felt, and bring with them the dry season of the year, during
which hardly ever a cloud disturbs the serenity of the skies.
"Between the tropical limits and the equator, however, the sun
comes twice to the zenith of each place. If now, between the
going and coming of the sun, from the Line to its furthest range,
a sufficient pause intervenes, or if the sun's temporary distance
from the zenith is great enough, the rainy season is divided into
two portions, separated by a lesser dry season. Closer to the
tropical lines, where the sun remains but once in the zenith, the
rainy season is a continuous one."
Such is the theory of the "Allgemeine Erdkunde" (Hahn,
Hochstetter and Pokorny, Prague, 1872). An explanation should be
added of the reason why the cool wind ceases to blow, at the time
when the air, heated and raised by a perpendicular sun, might be
expected to cause a greater indraught. We at once, I have said,
recognize its correctness at sea. The Gaboon, "in the belt of
calms, with rain during the whole year," has two distinctly
marked dry seasons, at the vernal and the autumnal equinoxes. The
former or early rains (Nchangyá?) are expected to begin in
February, with violent tornadoes and storms, especially at the
full and change, and to end in April. The heavy downfalls are
mostly at night, possibly an effect of the Sierra del Crystal. I
found March 28th (1862) very like damp weather at the end of an
English May; April 6th was equally exceptional, raining from dawn
to evening. During my trip to Sánga-Tánga and back (March 25th to
29th) we had frequent fogs, locally called "smokes," and almost
daily tornadoes, sometimes from the south-east, whilst the
lightning was dangerous as upon the Western prairies. After an
interval of fiery sun, with occasional rain torrents and
discharges of electricity, begin the Enomo (Enun?), the "middle"
or long dries, which last four months to September. The "Enomo"
is the Angolan Cacimbo, meaning cool and cloudy weather, when no
umbrella is required, and when the invariably grey sky rarely
rains. Travellers are told that June and July are the cream of
the year, the healthiest time for seasoned Europeans, and this
phantom of a winter renders the climate more supportable to the
northern constitution.
During the "middle dries," when the sun, retiring to the summer
solstice, is most distant, land winds and sea breezes are strong
and regular, and the people suffer severely from cold. In the
Gaboon heavy showers sometimes fall, July being the least subject
to them, and the fiery sun, when it can disperse the clouds,
turns the soil to dust. At the end of September appear the
"latter rains," which are the more copious, as they seldom last
more than six hours at a time. It is erroneous to assert that
"the tract nearest the equator on both sides has the longest
rainy season;" the measure chiefly depends upon altitude and
other local conditions.
The rainy seasons are healthier for the natives than the cold
seasons; and the explorer is often urged to take advantage of
them. He must, however, consult local experience. Whilst
ascending rivers in November, for instance, he may find the many
feet of flood a boon or a bane, and his marching journeys are
nearly sure to end in ulcerated feet, as was the case with poor
Dr. Livingstone. The rains drench the country till the latter end
of December, when the Nángá or "little dries" set in for two
months. The latter also are not unbroken by storms and showers,
and they end with tornadoes, which this year (1862) have been
unusually frequent and violent. Thus we may distribute the twelve
months into six of rains, vernal and autumnal, and six of dry
weather, æstival and hibernal: the following table will show the
sub-sections:--
Early December to early February, the "little dries;" February to
early April, the "former," early or spring rains; May to early
June, the variable weather; June to early September, the Cacimbo,
Enomo, long or middle dries; September to early December, the
"latter rains."
Under such media the disease, par excellence, of the Gaboon is
the paroxysm which is variously called Coast, African, Guinea,
and Bullom fever. Dr. Ford, who has written a useful treatise
upon the subject,[FN#7] finds hebdomadal periodicity in the
attacks, and lays great stress upon this point of
chronothermalism. He recognizes the normal stages, preparatory,
invasional, reactionary, and resolutionary. Like Drs. Livingstone
and Hutchinson, he holds fever and quinine "incompatibles," and
he highly approves of the prophylactic adhibition of chinchona
used by the unfortunate Douville in 1828. Experience in his own
person and in numerous patients "proves all theoretical
objections to the use of six grains an hour, or fifty and sixty
grains of quinine in one day or remission to be absolutely
imaginary." He is "convinced that it is not a stimulant," and
with many apologies he cautiously sanctions alcohol, which should
often be the physician's mainstay. As he advocated ten-grain
doses of calomel by way of preliminary cathartic, the American
missionaries stationed on the River have adopted a treatment
still more "severe"--quinine till deafness ensues, and half a
handful of mercury, often continued till a passage opens through
the palate, placing mouth and nose in directer communication. Dr.
Ford also recommends during the invasion or period of chills
external friction of mustard or of fresh red pepper either in
tincture or in powder, a good alleviator always procurable; and
the internal use of pepper-tea, to bring on the stages of
reaction and resolution. Few will agree with him that gruels and
farinaceous articles are advisable during intermissions, when the
patient craves for port, essence of beef, and consomme; nor can
we readily admit the dictum that in the tropics "the most
wholesome diet, without doubt, is chiefly vegetable." Despite
Jacquemont and all the rice-eaters, I cry beef and beer for ever
and everywhere! Many can testify personally to the value of the
unofficinal prescription which he offers in cases of severe
lichen (prickly heat), leading to impetigo. It is as follows, and
it is valuable:--
Cold cream. . . . . . . . . . 3j.
Glycerine . . . . . . . . . . 3j.
Chloroform . . . . . . . . .3ij.
Oil of bitter almonds . . gtt. x.