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HISTORY
OF
NEW BRUNSWICK
_By_ Peter Fisher
AS ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN 1825
(With a few additional Explanatory Notes)
NOW RE-PRINTED JOINTLY BY
THE GOVERNMENT OF NEW BRUNSWICK
AND
WILLIAM SHIVES FISHER
(Grandson of the Author)
UNDER THE AUSPICES OF
THE NEW BRUNSWICK HISTORICAL SOCIETY
ST. JOHN, N. B.
1921
Publisher's Notice.
_The tale of the Loyalists; their loyalty to high ideals of national
duty--to fulfil which they underwent untold losses, privations and
sufferings when they abandoned their homes and their all, and sought
new homes and commenced a new life in a northern wilderness--is a story
that appeals wherever patriotism is an honor and self-sacrifice a
virtue. In this Province of New-Brunswick, settled mainly by families
torn and rent by the American revolution and whose descendants are
reaping the reward of their sacrifice, it is of peculiar interest._
_In 1825, when Peter Fisher published the first Historical work, the
Province of New-Brunswick had received the loyalist immigration
forty-three years before, at which date it was constituted a separate
Province. The progress of the country during a period when its
political institutions and industrial life were in a formative
condition is of deep interest. The account given of it in Mr. Fisher's
work is of sufficient value in the opinion of the New Brunswick
Historical Society to warrant its being reprinted. In addition to the
original work, there has been embodied with it, notes and observations
prepared by the Venerable Archdeacon Raymond and published in Vol. X of
the records of the Society. A copy of the history not being available,
this is printed from a photostat copy furnished by the Dominion
archives._
SKETCHES
OF
NEW-BRUNSWICK;
CONTAINING
AN ACCOUNT OF THE FIRST SETTLEMENT
OF THE PROVINCE,
WITH
A BRIEF DESCRIPTION
OF THE
COUNTRY, CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, INHABITANTS, GOVERNMENT,
RIVERS, TOWNS, SETTLEMENTS, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS,
TRADE, REVENUE, POPULATION, &c.
BY
An Inhabitant of the Province.
"_Whatever concerns my country, interests me;
I follow nature, with truth my guide._"
SAINT JOHN:
PRINTED BY CHUBB & SEARS,
MARKET-SQUARE.
1825.
To the Reader.
Having at different times collected what information I could obtain
relating to the Province of New-Brunswick, I intended whenever I had a
sufficient fund of correct materials, to publish them in such a shape
as to diffuse a general knowledge of the Country, its productions,
sources of wealth, &c. For this reason I had kept the different
Counties, as well as the several subjects of which I intended to treat,
separate, in order to receive such additions as I could from time to
time make. But as I am happy to find that it is one of the objects of
the New-Brunswick Agricultural and Emigrant Society, to publish a
Geographical and Statistical Account of the Province, as soon as
materials can be collected, I have given up my first design--being
convinced that such a Society can collect correct information and the
materials for such a desirable object with far greater facility and
accuracy than an individual. In the mean time, I have given these
Sketches to the public, hoping they may serve to give a faint knowledge
of the Country, till a more perfect Work is prepared. It is no small
matter to give any thing like a full description of a new Country like
New-Brunswick, where the Compiler has but few helps--where there are
but few written documents to resort to, and where neither Animals,
Minerals, or Plants, have been properly arranged; and where there are
but few correct materials to guide him in pointing out the changes of
the seasons and other natural phenomena, with many other things which
are requisite in a complete description of a new Country. The labour of
even arranging the different Parishes was considerable, which the
statement of the population of the Province, (had I possessed that
document in time,) would have at once supplied.
It was my intention to add a concise history of the principal
transactions that have taken place in the Country from its first
occupation to the present time, from such sources both written and
oral, as came within my researches; but have for the reasons before
stated relinquished that design.
The description of some of the Counties is not so full as I could wish,
but it may be observed this is but an outline of what I at first
designed; and that the information I had collected of some of the
Counties, was very scanty; but that I intended to extend it to
considerable length, as correct materials could be procured. Having
therefore abandoned my first design, I had to contract the description
of some of the Counties of which I had a fuller knowledge, to make the
Work more uniform; and not to appear partial to some parts of the
Province, or to have forgotten others.
Fractional accuracy cannot be expected in such a brief outline; neither
indeed is it of much consequence. I have, however, endeavoured to come
as near the reality as possible, and given as full a detail as the size
of the Work would allow.
THE AUTHOR.
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
_Old Settlers on the River Saint John. New-Brunswick erected into a
Government, and settled by the Loyalists in 1783-4. Difficulties of the
first Settlers. List of successive Governors and Presidents._
The Province of New-Brunswick formerly formed a part of Nova-Scotia,
which was the first European settlement on the Continent of North
America.--The first grant of land in it was given by King JAMES the
FIRST to Sir WILLIAM ALEXANDER, in 1621--from whom it had the name of
Nova-Scotia or New Scotland. It was at that time regarded by the
English as a part of CABOT'S discovery of Terra-Nova. The first
settlers, however, were emigrants from France, who as early as the year
1604 came to the Country with DE MONT, a French adventurer, and gave it
the name of Acadia.
This country frequently changed masters; passing from the French to the
English, and back again, till it was finally ceded in full sovereignty
to the British at the peace of Utrecht in 1713.
In 1760, a number of persons from the County of Essex, in
Massachusetts, obtained a grant of a Township, twelve miles square, on
the River Saint John, from the British Government; and after several
delays in exploring and surveying, they commenced a settlement at
Maugerville.
During the American War of 1775, they were joined by a number of other
families from New England: the district adjoining Maugerville was
settled, and the whole called by the general name of Sunbury, where the
Courts of Justice were held till 1783: when the peace with America left
the Loyalists who had followed the British standard, to seek an asylum
in some part of the British dominions.
Prior to this period a number of families from Yorkshire in England,
and others from Massachusetts, had settled in and about Cumberland,
where many of their descendants still remain.--These people, actuated
by different attachments, lived during the war in a state of hostility
with each other;--one part adhering to the British, and the other to
the Americans.
In the month of April, 1783, about three thousand persons, men, women,
and children, sailed from New-York for the River Saint John; many of
them being passengers, but the major part persons who had joined the
British army, and were now sent to this Country to be disbanded and
settled. In the month of October following, about twelve hundred more
arrived from the same place. Those as well as the former had to seek a
shelter from the approaching winter, by building log and bark huts; a
few indeed were admitted into the houses of the settlers who had
resided here before and during the American war. Provisions and
clothing were furnished by Government for the first year, with a few
implements to commence a settlement. Lord DORCHESTER appointed the Rev.
Mr. SAYRE, GEORGE LEONARD, WILLIAM TYNG, and JAMES PETERS, Esquires, as
agents to apply for lands and locate them. Major STUDHOLM was soon
after added to the number by Governor PARR.--This Officer at that time
commanded the Garrison of Fort Howe, at the entrance of Saint John
River. These agents appointed the Rev. Mr. ARNOLD for their secretary.
The duties that devolved on these gentlemen were of the most arduous
nature; they had however the satisfaction of receiving the thanks of
the Governor and Council of Nova-Scotia, for their upright conduct in
transacting that business.
In the year 1785, the present limits of New-Brunswick were divided from
Nova-Scotia, and a separate Charter of a Constitution was granted to
the Province, under Governor CARLETON, with a Council composed of the
following gentlemen:--BEVERLEY ROBINSON, GABRIEL G. LUDLOW, GEORGE D.
LUDLOW, ABIJAH WILLARD, JONATHAN ODELL, JAMES PUTNAM, JOSHUA UPHAM,
EDWARD WINSLOW, WILLIAM HAZEN, GILFRED STUDHOLM, AND DANIEL
BLISS.--BEVERLEY ROBINSON, ABIJAH WILLARD, and JAMES PUTNAM, died soon
after, when BEVERLEY ROBINSON, the son of the former, with GEORGE
LEONARD, and JOHN SAUNDERS, were appointed to succeed them. The above
Members of the Council transacted the business of the Province for a
long while. Governor CARLETON was authorized from the Crown to locate
lands to the Loyalists and disbanded Troops in proportion to their
ability and rank.
From this period the Province slowly improved in Agriculture, Ship
Building, and the exportation of Masts, Spars, &c. to Great-Britain,
and Fish, Staves, Shingles, Hoop Poles, and sawed Lumber to the
West-Indies. Receiving in return coarse Woollens and other articles
from England; and Rum, Sugar, Molasses, and other produce from the
West-Indies.--a Town was built at the mouth of the River Saint John,
and another at St. Ann's Point, called Fredericton, where part of two
Regiments were stationed till the French revolution.--Barracks and
other public works were erected in different places, and the upper part
of the Country settled by establishing two military posts in the
interior, one at the Presqu-Isle, eighty miles above Fredericton, and
another at the Grand Falls, fifty-two miles farther up. But the
difficulties to which the first settlers were exposed continued for a
long time almost insurmountable. Having been reared in a pleasant
Country, abounding in all the comforts of life, they found themselves
suddenly transplanted to a wilderness with a rigorous climate, devoid
of almost every thing that could make life tolerable.--On their arrival
they found a few hovels where Saint John is now built, the adjacent
country exhibiting a most desolate aspect; which was peculiarly
discouraging to people who had just left their homes in the beautiful
and cultivated parts of the United States. Up the River Saint John the
country appeared better, and a few cultivated spots were found occupied
by old settlers. At St. Ann's, where Fredericton was afterwards built,
a few scattered huts of French were found; the country all around being
a continued wilderness--uninhabited and untrodden, except by the savage
and wild animals; and scarcely had these firm friends of their country
began to construct their cabins, when they were surprised by the rigors
of an untried climate: their habitations being enveloped in snow before
they were tenantable. The climate at that period (from what cause has
not yet been satisfactorily ascertained) being far more severe than at
present. They were frequently put to the greatest straits for food and
clothing to preserve existence; a few roots were all that tender
mothers could at times procure to allay the importunate calls of their
children for food.--Sir GUY CARLETON had ordered them provisions for
the first year at the expense of Government; but as the country was not
much cultivated at that time, food could scarcely be procured on any
terms. Frequently had those settlers to go from fifty to one hundred
miles with hand sleds or toboggans through wild woods or on the ice to
procure a precarious supply for their famishing families. The
privations and sufferings of some of those people almost exceed belief.
The want of food and clothing in a wild, cold country, was not easily
dispensed with or soon remedied. Frequently in the piercing cold of
winter a part of the family had to remain up during the night to keep
fire in their huts to prevent the other part from freezing. Some very
destitute families made use of boards to supply the want of bedding:
the father or some of the elder children remaining up by turns, and
warming two suitable pieces of boards, which they applied alternately
to the smaller children to keep them warm; with many similar
expedients.
Some readers looking only at the present state of the country may smile
at this account as wildly exaggerated, and may suppose that the skins
of the moose and other wild animals would have been a far better
substitute for bedding. But I have received the account of the above
facts, with many other expedients which were at that time adopted by
the settlers, from persons of undoubted veracity, and who had been eye
witnesses of what they related. It is, however, needless to enlarge
upon the hardships they endured, as most of the sufferers are now no
more. Some indeed were discouraged and left the country; but most of
those who remained had the pleasure of seeing the country improved and
their families comfortably settled. Many of those Loyalists were in the
prime of life when they came to this country; and most of them had
young families. To establish these they wore out their lives in toil
and poverty, and by their unremitting exertions subdued the wilderness,
and covered the face of the country with habitations, villages, and
towns.
I have not noticed these circumstances as if they were peculiar to the
settlers of New-Brunswick; but to hold up to the descendants of those
sufferers the hardships endured by their parents; and to place in a
striking point of view, the many comforts they possess by the
suffering, perseverance, and industry of their fathers. All new
settlements formed at a great distance from the parent state, are
exposed to difficulties, till the country becomes improved. Many of the
Colonies in North America, when first settled, were more than once on
the point of total extinction. The remnant of the inhabitants of some
of them were even embarked to abandon the country altogether, when they
were stopped by succour from home. The remembrance of the difficulties
of the first settlers should make their descendants contented with
their present advantages, and instead of wishing to change, to use
their own exertions to improve the country, and duly to appreciate the
many blessings and privileges they enjoy.
Under the judicious and paternal care of Governor CARLETON, assisted by
several of the leading characters, many of the difficulties of settling
an infant and distant Country were lessened. The condition of the
settlers was gradually ameliorated; agriculture was particularly
attended to: The Governor himself set a pattern in which he was
followed by several of the leading men in the different offices. A
variety of grains and roots were cultivated with success, and
considerable progress made in clearing the wilderness. Barren seasons
were sometimes experienced, when the scarcity of food was partially
remedied by the exertions of the Governor, assisted by several other
public spirited gentlemen, who are now no more.
After having governed the Province for nearly twenty years--after
having seen the country from a desolate wilderness rising to a state of
importance among the surrounding Colonies--after having seen the
settlers placed in a state of comparative comfort and independence--and
after having in every respect endeared himself to them as their common
father and benefactor--Governor CARLETON, in 1803, removed to England,
when the Government of the Province was administered by the following
persons, under the style of Presidents, till his death, viz.--G. G.
LUDLOW, from his departure till February, 1808; EDWARD WINSLOW,
Esquire, from that period till the 24th May following; when he was
succeeded by Major-General HUNTER, who held the Government, with the
exception of two short intervals, (during which the Government devolved
first on Lieutenant-Colonel JOHNSTONE, and afterwards on Major-General
BALFOUR,) till 1812, when he was succeeded by Major-General SMYTH; he
having gone to England in 1813, the Government was administered by
Major-General SAUMAREZ; but was resumed by General SMYTH, in 1814, who
having again left the Province, the Government devolved on
Lieutenant-Colonel HAILES. On the death of Governor CARLETON,
Major-General GEORGE STRACEY SMYTH, was appointed to the Government by
His Majesty's Commission, dated the 28th February, 1817. Governor SMYTH
died the 27th March, 1823, when the Government was assumed by WARD
CHIPMAN, Esquire, who administered the same till his death in the month
of February following, when it devolved on JOHN MURRAY BLISS, Esquire.
In the mean time, Major-General Sir HOWARD DOUGLAS, Baronet, had been
appointed to the Government by His Majesty. He arrived in the Province
in August, 1824, and immediately repaired to Fredericton, and assumed
the Government on the 28th of the same month, and is at present (1825)
Lieutenant-Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Province of
New-Brunswick, and its Dependencies.
The lively interest which Sir HOWARD takes in whatever concerns the
prosperity of the Province, may be best inferred from his own words in
his address to the Legislative Body, and his speech at the formation of
the Agricultural Society, which are inserted in full in the Appendix to
this short work.
CHAPTER II.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
_Situation. Extent. Boundaries. Face of the Country. Soil, Animals.
Mineral and Vegetable Productions. Inhabitants, Religion, and
Government._
New-Brunswick is situated between the forty-fifth and forty-ninth
degrees of North latitude, and between the sixty-fourth and
sixty-eighth degrees of West longitude. It is nearly 200 miles in
length, and 180 in breadth, containing about twenty-two thousand square
miles of land and water. It is bounded on the North by the river St.
Lawrence and Canada, on the West by the State of Maine, on the South
and Southeast by the Bay of Fundy and Nova-Scotia, and on the East by
the Gulf of St. Lawrence and Bay Verte. It is divided into eight
Counties, viz. St. John, Westmorland, King's, Queen's, Charlotte, York,
Sunbury, and Northumberland, which are again divided into Parishes,
according to their extent, and will be described when I come to treat
of the Counties separately.
This Province is watered with several fine rivers which lay open the
inmost recesses of the country, and are of the utmost advantage to the
inhabitants in transporting the products of the forests to the
seaports, as their chief trade consists in lumber and other bulky
articles. It likewise abounds in lakes, streams, springs, and rivulets,
so that there are few places unprovided with good mill seats or water
conveyance. It is diversified with beautiful acclivities, hills and
mountains, some of which will be noticed in the course of this work.
The appearance of the country along the Bay of Fundy is forbidding,
rugged and broken, and the soil indifferent. Advancing from the
sea-board into the interior the face of the country becomes more level,
being interspersed with gentle risings and vales, with large strips of
fertile intervals along the rivers, which being annually overflowed
produce excellent crops. In many places along the margin of the rivers,
the banks are high and abrupt, and to a stranger the land appears poor
and hard to cultivate; but after rising the banks, and advancing a
short distance from the water, the land becomes level, and the soil
rich; being covered with a thick black mould, produced by the
putrefaction of the leaves of the numerous trees with which the country
is covered. In other parts the land rises with a beautiful slope from
the water, offering many fine situations for buildings and seats. The
land in some parts being a second intervale, and in others a good
upland with a strong soil.
Most of the rivers have numbers of fine Islands interspersed in their
courses, which being chiefly formed by the washing of the currents,
consist of rich alluvial soil, producing grain, roots and grass in the
greatest luxuriance. These islands may be considered as the gardens of
the country, which they enrich and beautify. The rapidity of the
rivers, swoln by the melting of the snow in the spring, tears away the
soil in some parts, and deposits it in others; by which means their
courses are gradually altered; new Islands are formed, and alluvial
soil accumulated in some parts of the rivers, while it is washed away
in others; and this is more or less the case according to the looseness
of the soil, and the bends of the river: so that a man may have a
growing estate, or he may see his land diminishing from year to year
without the power to remedy it.
As most of the settlements are as yet confined to the margin of rivers
and streams, the country a little back is a continued forest, covered
with a stately growth of trees, consisting of pines, firs, spruce,
hemlock, maple, birch, beech, ash, elm, poplar, hornbeam, &c. In some
parts of the country white and red oak are found, but in no great
quantity; although men who have ranged the woods in search of pine, say
there are large groves in the interior. The islands are generally
covered with butternut, basswood, elm, maple, alder, &c. and in some
places the same trees are found on them, as on the high land in their
vicinity.
As the climate of a new country, abounding with lakes, rivers and
streams, and covered with close woods, which exclude the sun, must be
daily altering as the country becomes cleared and improved: I shall
hereafter notice some of the changes that have taken place in the
climate of this Province since it was settled by the Loyalists in 1783.
The domestic animals in this Province are much the same as those in the
United States; many of the horses and oxen used in the lumber business,
being annually furnished by the Americans. The breed of horses has been
improved by stallions imported at different periods from England and
other places. In Cumberland the inhabitants have paid considerable
attention to the improvement of the breed of horned cattle; in
consequence of which, and the extensive marshes in that country, their
dairies are superior to any in the Province. The sheep and swine are of
a good size and various breeds. As Agriculture has been much neglected
in this Province on account of the great trade that is carried on in
lumber, not much attention has been paid to improving the domestic
animals, till of late, a Society has been formed, and cattle
exhibitions instituted, which no doubt will soon make an alteration in
that part of the rural economy of the Province.
The wild animals are not so numerous as formerly, and some species are
nearly extinct. The Moose or Elk, which were found in great abundance
when the loyalists first came to the province, were wantonly destroyed,
being hunted for the skin, while their carcases were left in the woods,
a few only being used for food, although their flesh is equal to the
Ox, and would have supplied the destitute settlers with animal food for
a long while, had there been any effectual means at that time to
restrain the waste of the mercenary hunter. So great was the
destruction of those valuable animals, that in a few years they totally
disappeared. A few have lately been seen, and a law has been enacted
for their preservation; but they can scarcely be reckoned among the
present animals of the Province. The other wild animals are Bears,
Foxes, Wolves, Caraboo, Sable, Loup-cervier, Peaconks, Racoon, Mink,
Ground and Red Squirrels, Weasels, Muskrats, Wild Cats, Hares, &c. with
that valuable animal the Beaver.
The domestic Fowls are Turkies, Geese, Ducks, Hens, and other Poultry;
and among the wild are, Partridges, Geese, Ducks, Pigeons, Owls, Crows,
and Swans; with a variety of small Birds, which have nothing peculiar
to render a particular description of them necessary. There are but few
reptiles in the Province, and those are harmless.
Most of the rivers are well stored with Salmon, Shad, Bass, Suckers,
and Herrings, with abundance of small Fish, such as Trout, Perch, Chub,
Smelt, Eels, &c. Cusks are taken in the winter, and Sturgeon are taken
in some parts, but not often.
The Bays and Harbors are well supplied with Cod, Pollock, Haddock, &c.
Mackerel are taken in different places at the entrance of the Bay of
Fundy, and along the coasts.
But little can be said about the mineral or fossil productions of a
country which is yet in its infancy, and where the industry of the
inhabitants can be more profitably employed on the surface of the earth
than in ransacking its bowels. Minerals cannot be procured and
manufactured without money. To work mines effectually, many things are
requisite that cannot be expected in a new country. Such as capitalists
who can risk money on experiments, and wait a long time for returns:
for all property employed in the first working of mines is uncertain.
The next thing is abundance of cheap labour--then a demand for the
articles produced; next to produce it of such a quality, and at such a
price as to make it find a market: with many other considerations
sufficient to deter men who feeling themselves straitened in pecuniary
resources, see the necessity of employing what little they possess in
the way that will give a sure and quick return; and to such persons,
the surface of the country covered with pines, holds out a more
inviting prospect than the concealed riches of the earth. From the
appearance of the country, there is reason to believe it is rich in
minerals, and that the mountains contain ores of different metals in
abundance; but as no attempts of consequence have been made to procure
specimens or assay them, it cannot be expected that any particular
account of them could be given in this short work. It is probable the
time is not far distant when men of intelligence will turn their
attention to investigate scientifically the different natural
productions of the Province. Coals are found in abundance at the Grand
Lake, and specimens have been discovered in several other places, so as
to leave no doubt of the Province being well stored with that useful
article. Limestone of a good quality is found in different parts of the
Province; particularly at the narrows, near the mouth of the river St.
John, where there is not only sufficient for the use of the country;
but to supply Europe and America for ages, should they need it. Gypsum
is also found up the Bay, near Cumberland, and Manganese at Quaco.
This Province abounds in different kinds of excellent Stone for
building, and other purposes. Grindstones are manufactured in abundance
for home use and exportation. Veins of Marble, of different species,
have been discovered, some of which have been partially explored, and
small quantities manufactured.
The vegetable productions are, Wheat, Rye, Oats, Barley, Maize, Beans,
Peas, Buckwheat and Flax, with a variety of Roots, Grasses, and
Hortulan Plants.
The fruits are Apples, Plums, Cherries, Currants, Gooseberries,
Cranberries, Blue and Black Berries, Raspberries, Strawberries, and
small Grapes, with a number of small wild fruits. Butter Nuts, a large
oily nut, Beech Nuts, and Hazel Nuts are found in different parts of
the country in abundance, and in many places serve for fattening hogs;
particularly the Beech Nut, which after the severe frosts in the fall
nearly cover the ground.
There are no disorders peculiar to the climate. The air throughout most
part of the year is very pure and the inhabitants in general enjoy a
good share of health. Whether the observations that have been made of
the Americans sooner decaying than Europeans will apply to the
inhabitants of New-Brunswick cannot yet be ascertained; as the Province
has not been long enough settled; but there is good reason to believe
that with temperance and care the human frame will exist as long in
vigor in the latter as in Europe.--Another remark as a proof of the
former has been made which is that the human mind sooner arrives to
maturity in America than in Europe; but this if true may be more owing
to accidental than physical causes.
Their earlier marriages likewise proves nothing as they arise from the
peculiar circumstances of the different countries.
The inhabitants of New-Brunswick may be classed as follows according to
priority of settlement.
1st. The Aborigines or Indians.
2d. Acadians, being the descendants of the French who were allowed to
remain in Nova-Scotia after it was ceded to the British. They were
called the French neutrals--their descendants are at present settled in
different parts of the Province and are considerably numerous and will
be noticed with the Indians hereafter.
The old Inhabitants, were those families who were settled in the
Province before the conclusion of the American revolution, as already
noticed. They were so called by the disbanded troops and refugees who
came to the country in 1783, and the appellation is still applied to
their descendants. Some of those were settled at Maugerville where they
had made considerable improvements before the loyalists came to the
country. A few of the old stock are still living, having attained to a
great age. Their descendants are however numerous, and by
intermarriages with the new comers, spread over every part of the
Province.
The next and most numerous class of inhabitants are the descendants of
the Loyalists who came to the Province at the conclusion of the
American revolution, and whose sufferings I have already slightly
noticed.--These are the descendants of those genuine patriots who
sacrificed their property and comfort in the United States for their
attachment to that Government under which they drew their first breath;
and came to this Province (at that period a wilderness) to transmit
those blessings to their posterity. For although many of them belonged
to the army and were sent here to be disbanded, they had formerly been
comfortably settled in the States; and when it came to the trying point
whether they should forsake their homes or abandon their King, the
former was preferred without hesitation, although many of them had
young families and the choice was made at the risk of life, and also
with the change of habit from the peaceful yeoman to the bustle of a
camp.--As however the choice was made with promptness so it was
persevered in with constancy.
The other inhabitants are emigrants from different parts of Europe. In
some parts they have obtained allotments of land and are settled a
number of families together, in other places again they are intermixed
with the other settlers and by intermarriages, &c. are assimilating as
one people: proving themselves in many instances, good subjects, and
valuable members of society.
The last class that I shall notice are the people of Colour, or
Negroes.--These are found in considerable numbers in different parts of
the Province. In some parts a number of families are settled together
as farmers; but they do not make good settlers, being of a volatile
disposition, much addicted to dissipation; they are impatient of
labour, and in general fitter for performing menial offices about
houses as domestics, than the more important, but laborious duties of
farmers.--In their persons, the inhabitants of New-Brunswick are well
made, tall and athletic. There are but few of those born in the
country, but what have attained to a larger growth than their parents.
The genius of these people differ greatly from Europeans--the human
mind in new countries left to itself exerts its full energy; hence in
America where man has in most cases to look to himself for the supply
of his wants, his mind expands, and possesses resources within itself
unknown to the inhabitants of old settled countries, or populous
cities. In New-Brunswick, a man with his axe and a few other simple
tools, provides himself with a house and most of his implements of
husbandry,--and while a European would consider himself as an outcast,
he feels perfectly at home in the depth of the forest. In new countries
likewise the mind acquires those ideas of self-importance and
independence so peculier to Americans. For the man who spends the
greater part of his time alone in the forest, as free as the beasts
that range it without controul, his wants but simple and those supplied
from day to day by his own exertions, acquires totally different habits
of acting and thinking, from the great mass of the people in crowded
cities, who finding themselves pressed on all sides, and depending on
others from day to day for precarious support, are confirmed in habits
of dependence.
Hence the inhabitants of this Province are men who possess much native
freedom in their manners. This, from their veneration to their King
makes them faithful subjects and good citizens, not blindly passive,
but from affection adhering to that Government under which they drew
their first breath and under which they have been reared.
In noticing the state of religion in this Province, it may not be amiss
to observe that the old inhabitants who came originally from
New-England, where the genius of their church government was
republican, were generally Calvinistic in their modes and doctrine;
while the loyalists and others who came to the country in 1783, were
generally Churchmen, Quakers, or Methodists. The Emigrants who have
come since that period include all the above denominations.
The Church of England is in a flourishing state in this Province; there
are nineteen Clergymen belonging to the establishment who are under the
jurisdiction of the Bishop of Nova-Scotia. Many of them have handsome
churches with numerous congregations. Two of them are employed as
Itinerants for the vacant districts of the Province, and several of the
others serve two or more Parishes--An Ecclesiastical Commissary has the
superintendence of the whole.
The Catholics have a few Chapels and appear to be on the increase.
Their congregations are chiefly composed of Emigrant Irish, French, and
Indians.--There are six Clergymen in the Province, some of whom are
settled and others are employed as Missionaries among the scattered
French and Indians.
There are but two Ministers of the Kirk of Scotland in the Province;
they have handsome churches in Saint John and St. Andrews. There are
however a number of Seceders from the Presbyterian form of Church
Government, but all holding the doctrines of Calvin; several of them
have commodious places of worship, and respectable congregations.
There are no places of worship belonging to the Quakers in this
Province. There are however, a few of these primitive worshippers
scattered through the country, who joining sincerity and honesty with
plainness, are excellent members of society.
The Methodists are a numerous and respectable body of people. There are
four Wesleyan Missionaries in this Province, with a number of Methodist
Preachers, who although not immediately in connection with the
Missionaries, adhere strictly to the old Methodist discipline and
doctrine; and usually attend the Conferences, which are held once a
year, either in Nova-Scotia or New-Brunswick; where the Missionaries
for the two Provinces and the adjacent Islands assemble to arrange the
different stations of their Preachers and regulate the affairs temporal
and spiritual of that body. At these conferences young Preachers are
admitted on trial, and probationers who have laboured four years in the
Ministry to the satisfaction of the Conference, are taken into full
connection.
The Baptists are the descendants of those followers of Mr. WHITFIELD,
who formerly were very numerous under the denomination of New-Lights.
About 25 or 30 years ago, a change in their forms and discipline took
place among the leaders in Nova-Scotia, who adopted the mode of
Baptizing only Adults, and the other tenets of the old Baptists whose
name they also assumed. There are however a few of the New-Lights still
scattered through the country, who carrying the levelling spirit into
their religion, do not like order of any kind. They style themselves
Baptists, Christians, &c. The Baptists on the contrary have a formula
of faith comprised in seventeen articles, and are very strict in church
government. They are a numerous class of people, and have several fine
Chapels; they have however but few settled Ministers, not having as yet
made sufficient provision to supply their members with a stated
Ministry. They regulate their affairs by an annual association.
In general a desire for the christian Ministry is increasing in the
Province.--Places of worship are erecting in most of the settlements,
and such other provision for the support of the Gospel provided as the
abilities of the settlers will admit.
The Government of New-Brunswick, like most of the British Colonies, is
Royal and a miniature of the parent state. The other forms originally
established in the Colonies and Plantations were charter and
proprietory governments, which of late years have mostly given place to
royal or monarchial governments, after the British model.
The Governor has a Council consisting of twelve Members, to assist him
in the discharge of the executive duties of his station. These with the
representatives from the different Counties constitute the Provincial
Legislature.
The principal Courts established in the Province are the following.--
The Court of Chancery, which is a Prerogative Court, as well as a Court
of Equity. The Lieutenant-Governor, or Commander-in-Chief is
Chancellor, and the Justices of the Supreme Court Assignees.
The Court of Governor and Council, for hearing and determining Causes
relating to Marriage and Divorce.
The Supreme Court of Judicature for the Province is held in
Fredericton. It consists of the Chief Justice and three Assistant
Judges. The Terms are the third Tuesday of February and May, and the
second Tuesday of July and October. The Jurisdiction of this Court is
very extensive, partaking of the power of the Courts of King's Bench,
Exchequer, Common Pleas, and other Courts in England. All civil causes
of importance and capital cases are determined in this Court. The
present Chief Justice SAUNDERS, who presides in this Court, the reader
will observe, was a Member of the first Council in the Province. He has
ever since been actively employed in the first stations in the country,
which he has filled with the greatest ability and integrity. He is the
only survivor capable of filling a public station among all those who
bore a share in the public concerns of the Province on its first
erection into a separate Government under Governor CARLETON. The salary
of the Chief Justice is L700 or L750 sterling. The other Justices have
each L500 sterling per annum. The Justices, besides attending the
Supreme Court at the Seat of Government, hold Circuit Courts in the
different Counties.
The Inferior Court of Common Pleas consists of two, three, or more
Justices, who preside occasionally. They are assisted by the
Magistrates of the County. Here civil causes that do not involve
property to a great amount are determined, as are also crimes and
misdemeanors not affecting life. The Grand Inquest of the County
attends this Court, when Bills of Indictment are found, which if
involving matters above its Jurisdiction, are handed over to the
Supreme Court for trial. Most of the Police of the Counties and
Parishes is regulated by this Court, which is held half-yearly or
quarterly in the several Counties, as the public business may require.
Here the parish officers are appointed, parish and county taxes
apportioned; the accounts from the different parishes audited;
retailers and innkeepers licensed and regulated, &c. In short, this
Court exercises in many respects the same powers in the several
Counties, in regard to their internal police, as those that are
exercised by the Mayor, Aldermen, and Commonalty of incorporated
Cities.
Besides these Courts there is a summary mode of recovering debts under
five pounds before a single Magistrate.
The Legislature of New-Brunswick, like most of the British Colonies, is
a miniature of the British Parliament, consisting of the
Lieutenant-Governor, the Council, and House of Representatives. The
Governor represents the King. The Council form the upper House, in
humble imitation of the House of Lords in England; and the
Representatives from the different Counties forming the lower House, or
House of Assembly. The number of Representatives for the several
Counties is as follows: For the Counties of St. John, Westmorland,
Charlotte, and York, four each; the Counties of King's, Queen's,
Sunbury and Northumberland, two each; and two for the City of St. John,
making in all twenty-six. This representation, the reader will observe,
is very unequal. The County of Saint John, which includes the City,
having two more members than the extensive County of York, which
includes the Seat of Government; and the County of Sunbury, which is
not as large as some parishes in the other counties, has as many
members as the County of Northumberland, which comprises over one-third
of the Province. It must indeed be admitted that Saint John and Sunbury
are far better settled than Northumberland; but when we look at the
great extent of the latter, the numerous settlements and great trade in
that part of the Province, we must allow that the inhabitants of that
part of the country have not an equal share of what may be considered
the bulwark of liberty--namely, a fair representation. Six members at
least, would not be out of proportion for that large County.
The Assembly sits in the winter at Fredericton: the sessions continue
from six to seven weeks. Its chief business is in managing the
provincial revenue, providing for schools, roads, &c. and making such
laws as the state and trade of the Province may from time to time
require. When laws are enacted that interfere with Acts of Parliament,
they are transmitted to the King, with a suspending clause, and are not
in force until they receive the royal approbation.
CHAPTER III.
_Climate. Produce._
As New-Brunswick lies in nearly the same parallel of latitude as Paris,
Vienna, and other places in Europe, it would be natural to suppose the
climate would be similar to those places; but it must be observed that
cold is found to predominate on the continent of America. Hence in
places under the same parallels, the differences between the old and
new continents, with regard to cold, is very great, and this difference
increases as you advance from the equator. This has been supposed by
Dr. Robertson and others to arise from the western situation of
America, and its approaching the pole nearer than Europe or Asia, and
from the immense continent stretching from the St. Lawrence towards the
pole and to the westward; and also from the enormous chain of mountains
which extend to an unknown distance through that frozen region, covered
with eternal snow and frost; over which the wind in its passage
acquires that piercing keenness which is felt as far as the Gulf of
Mexico, but more severely in the Canadas, New-Brunswick, and
Nova-Scotia.
The prevailing winds, from October to April, are from the north and
north-west, during most of which period the air, though frequently
intensely keen, is clear and healthy. December is a temperate, pleasant
winter month. In January the heavy falls of snow commence, and the
drifting storms prevail chiefly in February and March; but these are
not so frequent as formerly, and the major part of the winter is clear,
hard weather.
In April the spring commences, and the winds are chiefly from the east
north-east, which occasion dull, heavy weather. The rivers, lakes, and
streams break up this month. As May advances, the weather becomes
settled, and the mornings are uncommonly fine. The sun, which rises a
little after four o'clock, diffuses his beams in full splendor through
an unclouded sky. This is the usual month for sowing and planting on
the high land. The intervale and low lands are generally later in
drying, and are generally cultivated in June. The prevailing winds in
the summer are from the south and south-west, veering at times to the
eastward, but never continuing long to the north-west. In the first
part of June the cold is considerable at night, frequently attended
with frosts, particularly at the changes of the moon, which sometimes
injure the early flowering fruits; and it is not till after the summer
solstice that the night air loses its chilliness. This is no doubt
occasioned by the snow, which lies undissolved in the deep recesses of
the forest, as well as by the waters of the numerous rivers, lakes, &c.
all which are swoln at this season; and by the cold acquired by the
earth during the winter, which requires the full effect of the sun's
influence, till late in June, before it is sufficiently heated. As soon
as the earth is so thoroughly warmed that the nights lose their chill,
vegetation becomes surprisingly rapid. In a few days, plants that
appeared yellow and stunted, assume a deep green, and show a vigorous
growth; and in less than a week, should a shower intervene, the face of
the country exhibits the most luxurious vegetation, sufficient to
astonish those who have only been familiar with temperate climates.
September is a pleasant month: the air is serene and pure. The rivers
and streams are usually lower this month than at any other period
during the year, and the dry weather frequently continues till late in
October. Snow falls sometimes early in November, and lays till late in
April; but this does not always hold. The rivers and lakes freeze up
about the middle of this month, some sooner and others later, according
to their situation. It is not uncommon to have frost in all the months
in the year except July: for, as was observed before, it seldom escapes
at the changes of the moon in June, and it frequently happens at the
full in August, particularly on small streams. If, however, it passes
that period, it generally keeps off till late in September. A stranger
would naturally conclude from this account, that the season was too
short and frosty for crops to come to maturity; but this is not the
case. Roots come to perfection and grain gets ripe in most years; wheat
being oftener hurt by the rust than the frost. The springs are indeed
backward; but vegetation is exceeding rapid, and the autumns are
uncommonly fine. The changes of the weather are frequently very sudden.
Often in the space of two hours, (in the seasons of fall and spring,)
changing from the mild temperature of September to the rigor of winter.
This is chiefly occasioned by the wind: for while it blows from any of
the points from the S.W. to the N.E. the air is mild; but when it veers
from the N.E. to the N.W. it becomes cold and clear; and as it
frequently shifts very suddenly, the transition from heat to cold is
equally short. Even in the sultry month of July, whenever the wind
changes for a few hours to the N.W. the air becomes cool, elastic, and
invigorating. This, as was before noticed, is occasioned by its passing
over the immense continent to the northwestward, and Hudson's Bay to
the northward. On the contrary, when the winds are from the southward
and S.E. they are mild and relaxing, retaining a portion of the heat
acquired in the torrid zone. The changes, however, are not always so
violent. The weather often both in winter and summer, continues for
weeks with little alteration in the temperature, and changes
imperceptibly. The coldest weather generally felt in the country, is on
or near the full moon in January; for it is not till after the cold has
had some time to exert its full influence and chill the earth, that the
full rigor of winter is experienced. The same is the case with the
greatest heat in summer, being in July, after the sun has for some time
exerted his full influence on the earth.--From observations made by
several persons, it is well understood that a gradual change has been
taking place in the climate on the American continent within a century
past. The change in this Province since 1783, has been very great--the
summers having abated much of their former heat, and the winters grown
proportionately milder. Neither are there such excessive droughts in
summer, as formerly; the seasons being cooler, with more rain; neither
does the snow accumulate to such a depth on the earth. This may arise
not so much from a less quantity falling, as from the frequent thaws
which now take place in the winter season.
For several years prior to 1816, the seasons had been growing gradually
cooler--less warmth being felt on a mean in each succeeding year till
1816, when the cold appeared to have arrived at its acme; for in that
year it appeared to predominate: from whatever cause has not yet been
ascertained. Some ascribed it to spots on the sun's disc; others
supposed that large masses of ice had been detached from the shores of
Greenland, and floated so near America as to occasion the uncommon
chill of the air,--with other conjectures of a like nature, totally
unsatisfactory. For spots have frequently been observed on the sun, and
it would require an immense quantity of ice to produce any permanent
effect.--Whatever might have been the cause, it is certain the genial
warmth of the sun appeared nearly lost: for when shining in meridian
splendour in the months of June and July, a cold rigorous air was felt.
There was a fall of snow, which was general over the Province and
extended to the United States, on the 7th June, to the depth of three
or four inches in the northern parts of the country. This was followed
by severe frosts in every month in that year. The crops were very
light: fields of wheat were totally destroyed. Even the never failing
potatoe was chilled and did not yield half a crop.
After this year the seasons began slowly to improve; but the shock
given to agriculture, by the failure of several crops, brought great
distress on the poor, and gave a check to the prosperity of the
Province. So great was the distress of the country, that the
Legislature applied L6,000 to be laid out in seed and provisions, and
advanced to such as were in want on a credit. For a few years back the
seasons have been favorable to agriculture; but the extremes of heat
and cold in winter and summer are not so great, and the rains are more
generally diffused through the year than formerly.
I have been thus particular in noticing the changes of the seasons, as
I think it would be a great advantage to the Province if a correct
register of the weather was kept, and the changes of the seasons
particularly attended to, as it would furnish data to guide the farmer
in his crops, by sowing more of the hardy grains, such as oats, barley,
peas, &c. as the seasons, (judging by a comparison with former years)
was likely to be warm or frosty; and not running so much on Indian
corn, which always requires hot seasons. Had this been attended to in
the cold seasons, less distress would have been felt in the country, as
oats, barley, &c. generally did well, when the other crops failed.
As I observed before, several causes have been assigned for the
difference between the climate of Europe and America, by persons who
have investigated that subject. But the causes of the alteration that
has taken place in the seasons in North America, remain yet a
desideratum with the learned. Whether the alteration is occasioned by
the precession of the equinoxes, or by the position of our globe with
the other planets, (for changes no doubt are taking place in the great
system of the universe, which, though slow, must produce powerful
effects,) or from whatever cause it may be, the effects are visible,
and cannot reasonably be wholly ascribed to the improvement of the
country, or any alteration that has taken place in it.
New-Brunswick appears to be but little liable to the great convulsions
of nature, such as earthquakes, hurricanes, tornadoes, &c. There has
been but one shock of an earthquake experienced by the present
inhabitants since they have settled the country. This shock happened on
the 22d May, 1817, at 25 minutes past three o'clock in the morning. The
duration of the shock was about 45 seconds. It was attended with the
usual rumbling noise, without thunder, the weather being very serene
and pleasant. The appearances, however, usually indicating earthquakes,
such as fiery meteors, the uncommon brilliancy of the aurora borealis,
&c. had been frequent the winter preceding.
I shall now proceed to notice the principal grains, roots, and grasses
cultivated in the Province, and give as correct an account of their
produce, &c. as the imperfect state of the agriculture of the country
will allow.
Wheat is sown from five pecks to two bushels to an acre, and yields
from twelve to twenty-four bushels per acre. Twenty bushels is a good
crop, on new land, although it sometimes produces more, when the soil
is very rich and the season favourable. On old land the return is from
ten to fifteen bushels per acre, the mean is about twelve. Rye is grown
on inferior lands. It takes about the same quantity of seed to the
acre, and gives much the same returns.
Oats are much cultivated in this country, and generally turn out a good
crop. The quantity of seed is from two to three bushels, and the
produce from twenty to thirty bushels per acre. Barley is not much
cultivated, although it would do well as a substitute in frosty
seasons.
Buckwheat is a grain that gives a large return for the quantity sown.
It is raised on lands that are too poor to produce good crops of the
other grains, and sown later in the season, so that the greatest summer
heat may be past before the grain is formed in the ear; for should
there be a few very hot days when the grain is in the milk, the crop
would be destroyed. The same would be the case, if a slight frost
should strike it in that stage. If, however, it escapes these
casualties, to which it is liable, it turns out a good crop, yielding
from forty to sixty bushels to an acre. There is a species of wild
Buckwheat, which is a surer crop, but of an inferior quality.
Millet has lately been introduced into the Province. It is said to do
well on most lands, but has not been much attended to.
Indian Corn or Maize, flourishes in high perfection on the intervales,
which are generally composed of alluvial soil. It is usually planted in
hills nearly four feet asunder. Five grains is the usual quantity for a
hill. It is a plant that requires a light rich soil, old manure, and
hot seasons; should these requisites concur, a good crop may be
expected. It is usually hoed thrice, and produces from twenty-five to
forty bushels per acre.
Pease are a hardy grain, and produce from ten to fifteen bushels to an
acre.
Beans are usually set in drills; they thrive well on light sandy lands,
but are not much cultivated in the country.
Among the ground crops or roots, the most valuable is the Potatoe--a
root that can never be sufficiently prized, as affording one of the
most productive and surest substitutes for bread of any known, and
without which it would have been extremely difficult to have colonized
these Provinces. This may be reckoned the surest crop, and is
peculiarly well adapted to new countries, as it thrives best on new
burnt land. The usual and simplest method of cultivating this root is
by planting cuttings of it in hills, about three feet asunder. This
method is peculiarly convenient on land newly cut down, as the seed is
set with the hoe between the stumps and roots with which the ground is
covered, and where the plough or harrow could be of no service. They
are generally hoed once in the season, and turn out in the fall a large
crop of clean, smooth potatoes, of a superior flavour to those grown on
old lands. The produce is from 150 to 200 bushels from an acre;
although they sometimes greatly exceed that quantity.--They are an
excellent crop for improving new lands; for as the culture is all
performed with the hoe or hack, the small roots of the stumps are
destroyed in planting and digging; for wherever there is room to drop
an eye, it never fails to vegetate, working under roots and around
stones, so that in the autumn the farmer has frequently to cut away or
dig under roots for his crop, which often exceeds his expectation. In
some parts of the Province, where the lands have been long in
cultivation, drilling is practised, and the labour chiefly performed
with the plough and harrow; and of late the Irish method of setting
them in beds has been introduced. There are many varieties of this root
cultivated in the Province; but no attention has been paid to renewing
the seed from the ball, which no doubt would improve the quality as
well as the produce.
Several kinds of Turnips are cultivated in this Province; the best of
which is the ruta-baga, or Swedish turnip. This is an excellent root
and cultivated with great success, particularly on new lands. They
differ from the common field turnip, being of a firm texture they keep
the year round; while the common turnip turns soft and unfit for use
after the winter sets in. They, however, answer a good purpose for
early use and for cattle, being sown late in July, after the other
crops are out of the way. The Swedish turnip is sown early in June. All
the sowing in this country is broad-cast, the method of drilling being
scarcely known.
The other roots are, beets, carrots, parsnips, onions, radishes, &c.
which are chiefly cultivated in gardens. There are a variety of
cabbages, sallads, cauliflowers, squashes, &c. which are also
cultivated in the gardens with great success.
The principal grasses produced in the country, are white and red
clover, timothy, lucerne, browntop, &c. Good uplands produce one and a
half tons per acre, and the intervale from two to three tons. There are
several species of wild grass, such as blue-joint, &c. found in
meadows, in the woods, and along streams, which make very good food for
young stock.
As no regular catalogue of the various species of indigenous plants has
yet been made in this country, it would be useless to attempt anything
like a correct, minute enumeration of them in this concise sketch. I
shall, therefore, prosecute this part of the subject no farther, as I
think the time is not far distant when this branch of the rural economy
of the Province will be particularly attended to; and that the
Societies which have lately been formed for that purpose, will not only
develope and improve the native productions of the country, but
introduce different species of exotics, as they find them answer the
soil and climate.
CHAPTER IV.
PRINCIPAL RIVERS AND TOWNS.
_River St. Croix. St. John. Miramichi. Mars-Hill. City of St. John.
Fredericton. St. Andrews._
Having in the preceding chapters given a brief sketch of the settlement
and face of the country, and noticed its climate, productions, &c. I
shall now proceed to give a short description of the principal rivers,
mountains, and towns, beginning with the
RIVER SAINT CROIX.
This river was made the boundary between the territories of His
Britannic Majesty and the United States, by the treaty of 1783 which
describes the bounds as follows, viz. "That angle, which is formed by a
line drawn due north from the source of the St. Croix river to the
Highlands, along the said Highlands which divide these rivers that
empty themselves into the river St. Lawrence from those which fall into
the Atlantic Ocean to the northwesternmost head of Connecticut river;
thence down along the middle of that river to the 45th degree of north
latitude, from thence by a line due west on said latitude until it
strikes the river Iroquois, or Cataraquy," &c.
The boundaries thus described, have caused considerable difficulty
between the two Governments, in discovering which is the height of land
mentioned in the treaty; and in regard to the St. Croix, it is supposed
that the British Commissioners were totally unacquainted with the river
in question, and not aware that the lines proposed, if run according to
the American construction of the treaty, would separate the British
Provinces of New-Brunswick and Canada. It is also probable that it was
not precisely known at that time what river was meant by the St. Croix,
but that another river, more to the westward, might have been intended.
This uncertainty about the rivers at that time might have arisen from
the general name of St. Croix, which was given by Europeans to all the
rivers falling into the Bay of Fundy, occasioned by the French on their
first landing in the country, having erected crosses at different
points, and named the places from that circumstance, the country of the
Holy Cross. However it may have happened, difficulties ensued in
ascertaining the precise Islands in the Bay of Passamaquoddy belonging
to each power, and the Highlands meant by the treaty of 1783. This
induced the Commissioners of the two Powers at the treaty of Ghent to
provide against any misunderstanding on these points for the future, by
the fourth and fifth articles of that treaty. The fifth article,
bearing particularly on this point, states that "Whereas neither that
point of the Highlands, lying due north from the source of the river
St. Croix, designated in the former treaty of peace between the two
powers, as the north-west angle of Nova-Scotia, nor the
northwesternmost head of Connecticut river, have yet been ascertained:
and whereas that part of the boundary line between the dominions of the
two powers, which extends from the source of the river St. Croix,
directly north to the above-mentioned north-west angle of Nova-Scotia,
thence along the said Highlands which divide those rivers that empty
themselves into the St. Lawrence, from those which fall into the
Atlantic ocean to the north-westernmost head of Connecticut river,
thence down along the middle of that river to the 45th degree of north
latitude, thence by a line due west on said latitude, until it strikes
the river Iroquois or Cataraquy, has not yet been surveyed, it is
agreed that for these several purposes two Commissioners shall be
appointed, sworn, and authorized, to act exactly in the manner directed
with respect to those mentioned in the next preceding article, unless
otherwise specified in the present article. The said Commissioners
shall meet at St. Andrews, in the Province of New-Brunswick, and shall
have power to adjourn to such other place or places as they shall think
fit. The said Commissioners shall have power to ascertain and determine
the points above-mentioned, in conformity with the provisions of the
said treaty of peace of 1783, and shall cause the boundaries aforesaid,
from the source of the river St. Croix to the river Iroquois or
Cataraquy to be surveyed and marked according to the said provisions:
the Commissioners shall make a map of the said boundary, and annex to
it a declaration under their hands and seals, certifying it to be the
true map of the said boundary, and particularizing the latitude and
longitude of the north-west angle of Nova-Scotia, of the
north-westernmost head of Connecticut river, and of such other points
of the said boundary as they may deem proper. And both parties agree to
consider such map and declaration as finally and conclusively fixing
the said boundary. And in the event of the said Commissioners differing
or both or either of them refusing, declining, or wilfully omitting to
act, such reports, declarations, or statements shall be made by them,
or either of them, and such reference to a friendly sovereign or state
shall be made in all respects, as in the latter part of the fourth
article is contained."--The fourth article here alluded to provides
that "such sovereign or state shall decide ex-parte upon the said
report alone, and His Britannic Majesty and the Government of the
United States engage to consider the decision of such friendly
sovereign or state to be final and conclusive on all matters to them
referred."--Notwithstanding these precautions on the part of the Agents
of the two Governments, the points alluded to are not yet ascertained
or settled.
But to resume the description of the river. The St. Croix has two main
branches, one inclines to the eastward, and communicates with a chain
of lakes, some of which are of considerable extent, and lie near a
branch of the Penobscot river. The other turns to the westward. From
this branch there is a route by a succession of lakes and short
portages to the waters that fall into the river St. John. The lands on
the banks of this river are of good quality, and have been well
timbered; most of the pine has been cut off, but there is still
abundance of other timber, consisting of the harder woods, spruce,
firs, &c. There are mills erected on different parts of this river,
which furnish a great quantity of sawed lumber annually.
There are several falls in the river, which obstruct the navigation.
There are, however, several fine settlements along its banks, and the
adjoining country is first improving.
RIVER SAINT JOHN.
This noble river encircles a large portion of New-Brunswick, and may be
considered as the principal drain of those numerous rivers and streams
with which the Province is intersected. Winding in an irregular
semi-circle, it traverses an extent of about five hundred miles, and
falls into the Bay of Fundy nearly in the same parallel of latitude in
which it takes its rise.
It may not be improper to observe, that most of the rivers and streams
in this country were originally named by the Indians, who generally, by
the names they give, wish to signify something peculiar to the thing
named; consequently the Indian name of this river, which they call
"Looshtook," signifies long river.--It rises from lakes near the head
of Connecticut river, between the 45th and 46th degrees of north
latitude, and stretches to the northward, beyond the 47th degree of
north latitude, where it receives the waters of the Madawaska river,
which rises near the St. Lawrence. It then inclines to the southward,
and continues its course uninterrupted, receiving several large
streams, till it arrives at the Grand Falls, in lat. 46 deg. 54'. Here
its channel is broken by a chain of rocks, which run across the river at
this place, over which its waters are precipitated with resistless
impetuosity. The river, just above the cataract, makes a short bend of
nearly a right angle, forming a small bay a few rods above the
precipice, in which there is an eddy, which makes it a safe landing
place, although very near the main precipice, where canoes pass with
the greatest safety. Immediately below this bay, the river suddenly
contracts. A point of rocks project from the western shore and narrow
the channel to the width of a few rods. The waters thus pent up sweep
over the rugged bottom with great rapidity; just before they reach the
main precipice they rush down a descent of some feet, and rebound in
foam from a bed of rocks on the edge of the fall. They are then
precipitated down perpendicular cliffs of about forty-five feet in
height, into an abyss studded with rocks, which nearly choke the
passage, leaving only a small opening in the centre, through which the
water, after whirling for some time in the bason, rushes with
tremendous impetuosity, sweeping through a broken rocky channel and a
succession of falls for more than half a mile, being closely pent up
with rocks, which in some places overhang the river so as to hide most
part of it from the view of the observer. Trees and timber, which are
carried down the falls, are sometimes whirled round in the bason below
the precipice till they are ground to pieces; sometimes their ends are
tapered to a point, and at other times broken or crushed in different
places. Below the falls there is another small bay with a good depth of
still water, very convenient for collecting timber, &c. after it has
escaped through the falls. Here the canoes and boats from Fredericton
and different parts of the river land, and if bound for Madawaska they
are taken out of the water and carried or drawn, as well as their
loads, across the isthmus to the small bay above the falls before
mentioned, where they are again put in the water, and proceed without
any farther interruption to the upper settlements and the Canada line.
The distance of the portage, including the windings of the road up the
hill is about 100 rods from water to water. Flat bottomed boats, from
fifteen to twenty tons burthen, can come from St. John to this place,
which is a distance of about two hundred and twenty-three miles. No
larger craft than canoes have as yet been used above the falls. This
has not arisen from any defect in the river, which above the falls is
smooth and of sufficient depth for large vessels; but from the habits
of the French settlers, who are partial to canoes, which they set
through the rapids with poles at a great rate, and with which they
shoot the cataracts and rapids with great address.
About a mile below the landing place a succession of rapids commence.
The first from their appearance are called the white rapids. The banks
are here every high, and the water being pent up by a narrow channel,
rushes through the beds of rocks which nearly cross the river, and
whirling about in their passage are forced over and around the crags in
sheets of foam. A few miles below the falls the river is increased by
the junction of the Salmon, Restook, and Tobique rivers, which will be
noticed hereafter. It then continues its course without interruption,
receiving every few miles some considerable streams, till it reaches
the Maductic Falls. Its course is nearly south, and its width about a
quarter of a mile, occasionally widening and contracting from the Grand
Falls to Woodstock, where it widens to near a mile and forms several
fine Islands. It afterwards diminishes, and strips of intervale narrow
its bed.
At the Maductic Falls its channel is again nearly choked up with rocks.
The navigation, however, is not totally interrupted, for rafts, boats,
and small craft in their descent are run through the falls by persons
well acquainted with the channel; and in their ascent they are towed
through with men or horses, and but few accidents happen, considering
the numbers that navigate the river.
As the bed of the river is frequently encumbered with rocks and
sand-bars, the navigation is very difficult at the dry time of the
year. The current is likewise swift in many places, and rapids are
frequent, till within six miles of Fredericton, where they end.
About nine miles above Fredericton the river suddenly widens and
receives the Madam-Keswick. Here is a group of fertile islands, some of
which are over a mile in length, and nearly as broad. At Fredericton
the river is about three quarters of a mile wide, and flows with a
beautiful unbroken current to the falls near the City of Saint John.--A
number of fine Islands are scattered in different parts of its bed.
These Islands are composed of rich alluvial soil, and produce large
crops of grass and grain. Being formed by the washings of the river,
they are like garden spots scattered through the country. About nine
miles from St. John the river widens into a bay nearly six miles long
and three wide. The river Kennebeckasis falls into this bay. At the
foot of the bay it suddenly contracts, and winds through a crooked
passage called the narrows, and again opens and forms a small bay
directly above the falls. Here the current is again broken by a bed of
rocks, and suddenly contracted by the near approach of the banks which
appear to have been formerly united and forced asunder by some
convulsion of nature. From the appearance of the rocks on each side it
is probable that the water having been pent up in the small bay just
noticed, have in their efforts to escape undermined the land and rocks
at this place, and forced a subterraneous passage, which by wearing,
aided by some violent concussion, has caused the rocks to fall in, when
the earth being washed away by the rapidity of the current, has left
the present passage open, and that the split-rock and the bed of the
channel is part of the former overhanging rocks.
For that the bed of the channel consists of cragged rocks of various
shapes and sizes, is evident from the whirlpools and eddies at that
place. These falls make a tremendous roaring at certain periods. After
passing the falls, it forms the harbour of St. John, and falls into the
Bay of Fundy in lat. 45 deg. 20' N.
The spring tides at St. John rise from twenty-four to twenty-eight
feet. The body of the river is seventeen and a half feet above low
water mark. When the tide has flowed twelve feet, the falls are smooth
and passable from fifteen to twenty minutes. They are level three and a
half hours on the flood, and two and a half on the ebb, and passable
four times in twenty-four hours. Above the falls the tides rise four
feet. At Maugerville, seventy miles up the river, they rise from one to
two feet; at Fredericton from six to ten inches, and are perceivable
nine miles above that place, varying according to the phases of the
moon. In the spring, the river, swoln with rains and the melting of the
snow and ice, rises higher than the tides, which prevents vessels from
ascending the falls for some weeks.
RIVER MIRAMICHI.
This is one of the finest rivers for lumber in the Province. Its banks
as well as the banks of the numerous streams that fall into it, are
covered with pines of the finest growth, which appear to be almost
inexhaustable, for although lumbering has been prosecuted on this river
to a great extent for a number of years past, there is still abundance
found by going a little back from the water. It is indeed the main
source of the trade of the large County of Northumberland. One hundred
and forty-one thousand three hundred and eighty-four tons of timber
were shipped at the port of Miramichi in 1824. Rafts are taken down
this river with the greatest safety to the shipping, which load at
different places from the mouth of the river up to Fraser's Island. It
has two main branches called the north-west and south-west, which run a
great way into the country, and with their numerous streams lay open
the inmost recesses of this extensive County. Several fine islands lay
in the course of this river, covered with elm, ash, butternut, &c.
which invariably denote the most luxurious soil. Its waters are well
stored with excellent salmon and other fish, which are caught here in
great abundance. There are several settlements along this river, none
of which merit a particular description, the improvement of the country
being neglected for lumbering. The branches of this river approach in
several places very near to streams falling into the river St. John,
which communicate by short portages. As I have never been able to
procure correct information about the sources of this river or its
length, I have not the means of satisfying the reader on these points,
but must dismiss the subject with these few particulars, being all I
could obtain.
As was observed in the commencement of this work, this country is so
intersected with rivers, streams, and lakes, that with small portages
persons can go to most parts of the Province in a canoe. There is a
route from the Madawaska river to the Bay of Chaleur, and another from
the river St. John by the Grand River, which is fifteen miles above the
Great Falls, to the Ristagouche. The river Chicktahawk, which falls
into the St. John near the Presque-Isle, runs near a branch of the
Miramichi; a short portage connects the route. The route from the St.
Croix to the St. John is first by a chain of lakes with short portages,
and next by Eel river, which falls into the St. John about fifty miles
above Fredericton. There is another route from the St. John to the
Miramichi, by the way of the Jemseg, through the Grand Lake and up
Salmon river, from whence there is a short portage to the river Etienne
which falls into the Miramichi; with several other such communications
where the streams of the different large rivers nearly approach each
other.
The Mountains and Hills with which the Province is diversified, have
nothing peculiar to merit a particular description, except Mars Hill,
which has excited considerable interest, being supposed by the British
Commissioners under the treaty of Ghent to be the height of land
intended by the treaty of 1783, and that consequently the boundary line
between the territories of the United States and the British Provinces
should take a new direction at that place. This is resisted by the
American Commissioners, who wish to prolong the line beyond that point.
This is an object of great importance to the two powers, for should the
line be continued in the old direction, which at this point approaches
very near the river St. John, it would cross that river a little above
the Grand Falls, and would not only separate New-Brunswick and Canada,
but likewise give the Americans the upper part of the County of York
which joins Canada, with a large Settlement of French at
Madawaska--Mars Hill lies about six miles from the river St. John, on
the western side, about one hundred miles above Fredericton. It can be
seen from the high lands on the opposite side of the river, and appears
at that distance majestically towering above the adjacent country. On
approaching the mountain the woods are open and the ascent commences
with an easy swell about half a mile from the main hill, after which
the ascent is more abrupt, and in some parts nearly perpendicular.
Having reached the crest, the spectator has a clear expanse of horizon,
being completely above the surrounding country. From hence he views a
boundless forest beneath his feet. The hills appear like waves covered
with their green foliage of different shades, from the various sorts of
trees with which their brows are covered. In different places the more
elevated hills appear rising above the others like towers. Facing the
river St. John, he beholds Moose Mountain at about nine miles distant
on the opposite side of the river, which is nearly as high as Mars
Hill, and perpendicular on the north side. To his left are a range of
lofty hills on the Restook; to his right he has a distant view of
Houlton-plantation, and in his rear, as far as his eye can reach, are
the lofty Catardhan Mountains on the Penobscot river; the intermediate
space exhibiting an undulating forest of boundless variety of hills and
vallies, lakes, &c. The whole forming a grand and interesting
spectacle. The Mountain is about three miles in length, very narrow,
and divided by a hollow near the centre. A small spot has been cut down
on each end of the hill, and a temporary observatory erected by the
Commissioners under the treaty of Ghent.
The Americans have laid out a settlement in this part of the country,
which takes in Mars Hill. The base of the mountain is washed by the
Presque-Isle river, and other streams which fall into the river St.
John.
The principal Towns in New-Brunswick are SAINT JOHN, FREDERICTON, and
SAINT ANDREWS; which on account of their importance and situation will
be treated of separately. Leaving the other places to be noticed as
they occur in the description of the several Counties, I shall proceed
to give a short description of the situation, trade, public buildings,
and institutions of the places just mentioned; commencing with the
CITY OF SAINT JOHN.
The City of St. John is situated in the county of that name, on a rocky
peninsula at the estuary of the river St. John, in lat. 45 deg. 20' north,
long. 66 deg. 3' west. The city comprehends both sides of the river. The
district on the eastern side of the harbour, formerly called the
township of Parr, and Carleton on the western side. It is divided into
six wards, two of which are in Carleton and four in St. John, properly
so called. It contains, according to the late census, 8,488 inhabitants
of all descriptions.
Like most English towns, the streets in St. John intersect each other
at right angles. They are in some parts well built up, the houses being
of different heights and joining each other for some distance, forming
several fine ranges of buildings. The first houses in this place were
constructed of wood, many of them were low and ill shaped. These when
removed by fires or other causes, are generally replaced with handsome
brick buildings, which is making a great improvement in the appearance
of the city. The streets, likewise, which were formerly nearly
impassable from rocks, hills and chasms, are rapidly improving; hollows
have been filled up, and rocks cut away; so that although the hills in
some parts are still steep, yet carriages drive through most part of
the city with the greatest safety.
A projecting point near the entrance of the harbour, has caused the
different parts of the city to be distinguished by the name of the
upper and lower coves; the latter of which has been much neglected till
lately, Government having built a handsome range of Barracks on the
point fronting the Bay of Fundy, and removed the troops, &c. from Fort
Howe to that station, it is beginning to improve.
Most all the trade of the city is carried on in the upper part of the
town, where there are a number of warehouses, stores, wharves, and
other conveniences for lading and unlading ships. The tides rise to
such a height that large ships can lay at the wharves and discharge
with the greatest safety.
The harbour is convenient and safe, and capable of containing a great
number of vessels of the largest description. Partridge Island lies at
the entrance, on which there is a light house, and signal station,
where signals are carefully attended to and made on the first approach
of vessels. These signals are repeated at Fort Howe. Within the island
there is a bar which extends from the western side, and passes the
lower point of the peninsula, on which the city stands. It has a beacon
on the outer end, and a buoy to direct vessels coming or going. The bar
is dry at ebb tides, but within the harbour there is sufficient water
for the largest ships. The tide ebbs and flows from sixteen to
twenty-four feet perpendicular in this harbour. A pier has been
constructed at the entrance of the harbour for the protection of the
shipping.
St. John carries on a brisk trade with Europe, the West Indies and the
United States, in lumber of different descriptions, fish, gypsum,
grindstones, &c.; but the staple article is squared timber, one hundred
and fourteen thousand one hundred and sixteen tons of which were
shipped from this port in 1824. Ship-building has also been lately
revived here and prosecuted to a considerable extent. Sixty vessels
were registered at this port in 1824, whose tonnage amounted to sixteen
thousand four hundred and eighty-nine tons, besides three ships and
five brigs not in the above estimate. Part of these were built in St.
John, and the remainder up the rivers and along the coasts for
merchants in the city.
The city of St. John contains two Churches on the eastern side of the
river, one of which is neatly finished and has an elegant organ; A
handsome Kirk belonging to the members of the Church of Scotland; a
Catholic Chapel; two Methodist Chapels, one belonging to the Wesleyan
Methodists, and the other to a number of that persuasion who seceded
with Mr. Priestley, and a neat Baptist Meeting-House.--The other public
buildings are a Poor House, a Gaol, a Marine Hospital, with two
handsome ranges of Barracks lately erected at the Lower Cove, with
Government Stores, Houses, &c.
A square near York-Point, reserved for a Market, &c. has an old
building in the centre, the upper part of which has served for many
years as a Court-House, and the under part as a flesh market; a fish
and vegetable market having been lately built contiguous to it, at the
edge of high water mark, and a handsome flesh market in the Lower Cove,
which are generally well supplied. King's-square is situated on the
height of land in King-street, and is reserved for public uses. It is a
very pleasant situation commanding a fine view of the city and harbour.
It is in contemplation to erect a Court House on the East side of this
square on a liberal scale.--Queen's-square is situated in Duke's Ward,
and is also reserved for public uses.
The Public Seminaries in St. John, are a Grammar School, the Central
Madras School, and a number of Sunday Schools.
There are two Public Libraries in the City, a Vaccine Establishment,
three Printing Offices, with the following religious, humane, and
useful Societies:--
1. A Branch of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge.
2. The New-Brunswick Auxiliary Bible Society.
3. Saint John Sunday School Union Society.
4. Saint John Religious Tract Society.
5. Saint George's }
6. Saint Patrick's Societies. } Societies.
7. Saint Andrew's }
Instituted for the purpose of aiding their respective countrymen in
distress.
8. New-Brunswick Society for the improvement of the breed of Horses and
other Cattle.
9. Female Benevolent Society, for the relief of indigent females, and a
Branch of the Wesleyan Missionary Society.
A Provincial Bank is established here with a capital of L30,000, and
increased by an Act of the Legislature in 1825 to L50,000. This Bank
has been found of considerable advantage in facilitating the trade of
the City by discounting Bills, &c. but it may more properly be called
the St. John, than the Province Bank, as it only transacts business
within the City.
A Marine Insurance Company, and a Water Company have lately been
incorporated; the latter is not yet in active operation.
Here is a Chamber of Commerce for the regulation of the trade of the
City, and a Savings' Bank for depositing the small savings of the
Laboring Classes. Carleton on the opposite side of the river is
comprehended in the limits of the City. It is situated on the point,
fronting Navy Island, and comprises the ruins of old Fort Frederick. It
contains a neat Church, and Meeting House, with several fine buildings.
It has a good fishery and is fast improving. Saint John being an
incorporated City, is governed by a Mayor, Recorder, six Aldermen, with
an equal number of Assistants, under the style of "The Mayor, Aldermen,
and Commonalty of the City of St. John." The other officers are a
Sheriff and Coroner (who likewise act for the County of St. John) a
Common Clerk, a Chamberlain, a High Constable, six inferior ones, and
two Marshals.
The Mayor, Recorder, Common Clerk, Sheriff, and Coroner, are appointed
by the Governor, and hold their offices during his pleasure from year
to year.
The Aldermen, Assistants, and inferior Constables are chosen annually
by the Freemen of the City.
The Chamberlain is appointed by the Mayor, Recorder, Aldermen, and
Assistants, in Common Council.
The Mayor appoints the High Constable, Marshals, Cryers, Porters,
Bell-ringers, &c.
The Mayor or Recorder, with three Aldermen and three Assistants,
constitute a Common Council, with power to make Laws, Ordinances, &c.
which are to remain in force for one year only, unless confirmed by the
Governor and Council. They also constitute a Court of Record or
Inferior Court of Common Pleas for the City and County of St. John. The
terms of this Court are quarterly, and it takes cognizance of all
causes from five pounds value to fifty pounds, in which titles of land
shall not come in question: and by an Act of the Provincial
Legislature, its Jurisdiction is enlarged to all transitory actions of
any value.
It may be observed that the Mayor by virtue of his office possesses
extensive powers; such as making Free Citizens, regulating the Markets,
&c.; and that the Aldermen are Justices of the Peace for the County as
well as for the City of St. John.
The Corporation can hold real property to the amount of L2,000 per
annum, within or without the City. They have at present an annual
revenue of about L2,000 at their sole disposal for the improvement of
the City.
It must, however, be observed that no great attention has yet been paid
to ornamenting the City. This arises in some measure from the peculiar
cast of its inhabitants. The men of independent property, and those
holding high offices in the different departments being too few to do
much, although some of them have fine seats, and many of the Merchants
engaged in the shipping business, being transient persons, who from
time to time come to the Province, and whose main object is to make as
much as they can, in as short a time as possible, with the intention of
soon returning to enjoy their gains in their native country. These
persons do not feel that interest in the improvement of the place, that
those do whose interests are identified with the country. Having,
therefore, no local attachment to the soil, it is no wonder that they
should extend their views no farther than present convenience. Such
persons, then, who are to be found in all the ports of the Province add
nothing to the wealth of the country, but rather act as drains to it. A
few seats have, however, lately been begun on the Marsh near the City,
which will soon make an alteration in the appearance of the Suburbs.
Some small improvement is much wanted at the Quays for the convenience
of the Public and protection of Goods from the mud. This could be
easily effected by laying sleepers and covering them with strong plank
and running a railing along the margin. This would obviate the
inconvenience so much felt at present by persons transacting business
on the wharves, who have to walk or rather wade, day after day, through
the mud. It would also facilitate the transfer of Goods, by keeping
them in better order, and prevent many accidents which are yearly
occurring by sailors and others falling off.
FREDERICTON.
Is situated in the County of York, on the west side of the river Saint
John on an extensive flat opposite the Nashwaack, formerly called Saint
Anns point. The river forms an elbow in front of the town, and the
hills encircle the plain, and approach the river about two miles above
the town leaving a spot of low land nearly four miles in length and in
places over a mile in breadth.
The town is laid out in squares of eighteen lots containing one quarter
of an acre each. The streets cross at right angles. Those that run
parallel with the river are more than a mile in length, and are in
places considerably well built up; the houses are all of wood and of
different heights.
The inhabitants are the descendents of the Loyalists who came to the
Province at the close of the American revolution, with a mixture of
Europeans and Americans.
Fredericton being the seat of Government, contains besides a residence
for the Lieutenant-Governor, a Provincial Hall, where the Supreme
Courts and General Assemblies are held. This building contains a
spacious room for the Supreme Courts, with several Jury rooms, a
Council Chamber, and an Assembly Room, with other apartments and
conveniences for the Legislative Body. Adjoining this building are the
Offices of the Surveyor General and Secretary of the Province.--The
other public buildings are a handsome square of Barracks with a Parade
in front, where part of a Regiment of foot are usually quartered.-Barracks
and Store-houses for a company of Royal Artillery with other buildings
for the use of the troops.
A County Court-House, which also serves for a Market; a small
commodious Church in a sightly situation, two neat Chapels, one
belonging to the Baptists, and the other to the Methodists; a Catholic
Chapel in progress; a Gaol, and a building occupied as a College till
another one on an enlarged scale can be erected; a Poor House in the
vicinity of the town, on a liberal scale; and a Meeting House belonging
to a number of persons composed of congregationalists and other
seceders from the Kirk of Scotland.
Government House is situated a little above the upper part of the town
on a convenient pleasant site, but having been a long time without a
settled family it was when Sir HOWARD DOUGLAS came to the Province
considerably out of order. It wants a wing to be added to make it
uniform with other improvements: for although when the house was built
for Governor CARLETON it was on a liberal scale, considering the state
of the Province at that time, it has been suffered to remain without
enlargement, while the country has rapidly advanced.--It is, therefore,
at present neither sufficiently spacious or splendid for the Governor's
residence.--The same observations may apply to the Province Hall, which
although always too low to make a good appearance or allow a good
Council Chamber, was a good building considering the state of the
country and want of revenue at the time it was erected; but is now too
small and plain, considering the great increase of the population and
trade of the Province.
Public buildings speak much, though silently, for the public spirit,
taste, and importance of a country. They should, therefore, always be
on such an enlightened scale as not to be a prejudice to it. One
general observation may be made on all the public edifices in
Fredericton, which is that being uniformly low they make a flat
appearance, which is peculiarly striking to a stranger coming from
countries where buildings are more elevated.
Probably there are few finer situations for a town than the site on
which Fredericton is built. A beautiful river glides majestically in
front of a spacious plain; bounded by hills of gentle acclivity,
possessing elegant sites for seats and buildings on commanding
situations. On the opposite side of the river the Nashwaack rolls its
tribute to the Saint John and adds much to the beauty of the situation.
Abundance of excellent water is every where found with a soil
peculiarly well adapted for forming gardens, walks, &c. with a pure,
healthy atmosphere. From the hills which skirt the town the river can
be seen to a great distance winding through the country, till it is
lost among the distant Islands.
Fredericton being at the head of the sloop navigation is the main depot
for goods from the seaboard. It is about eighty-five miles from the sea
and surrounded by a large extent of country which is fast settling. The
river Saint John is about three quarters of a mile wide in front of the
town, and extends upwards of four hundred miles above it.--The
surrounding country possesses an excellent soil, and abounds in
valuable timber, and as the whole of the trade to and from the upper
country must pass Fredericton, a great part of it must of course centre
there, and consequently, as the country becomes fully settled,
Fredericton must improve and from its situation remain the great
central emporium of the Province.
Fredericton contains a Printing Office and a Public Library, with the
following public Institutions.
1. A Branch of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge.
2. The Bible Association of Fredericton and its vicinity.
3. A Branch of the Methodist Missionary Society.
4. The Fredericton Emigrant Society. This Society was formed at
Fredericton in 1819, for the relief of destitute strangers, being the
first Institution of that kind formed in the Province. It expended
large sums in that and the following year, and besides relieving the
temporary necessities of great numbers of destitute Emigrants, enabled
many of them to settle on new land, who are now in comfortable
independent circumstances. It is not at present in active operation,
but has funds to a considerable amount.
5. The New-Brunswick Agricultural and Emigrant Society. This is a
Provincial Institution having branches in the different Counties. The
General Society being established at Fredericton.
6. A Branch of the Society for improving the breed of Horses and
Cattle, and a Savings' Bank.
Fredericton was formed by Governor CARLETON in 1785, shortly after the
division of the Province from Nova-Scotia, and being considered the
most eligible and central situation, was made the permanent Seat of
Government. The policy of this measure has been questioned by many who
overlook the general good of the country for partial advantages. Much
jealousy has always existed among the Citizens of St. John in
particular, in regard to this selection. Prejudices in favor of our own
land, religion, institutions, &c. must always be expected, and to a
certain degree it would show a want of attachment not to feel their
influence; but then it must be remembered that when we allow our own
interest to blind our reason, we are prone to view what concerns us
with a partial eye. It is so with a person who being settled at the
seaboard goes but seldom out of sight of the harbor, but from what is
passing before his eyes, concludes his town is the only place of
consequence in the country; and as nature has made it the great mart
for the imports and exports of the interior, it must of course be
likewise the only place fit for the Seat of Government, and every thing
else of consequence in the Province. But when a person whose mind is
above these mercenary considerations, and enlarged to see the general
good of the country, casts his eye on the map of the Province, he will
find that if the situation was as good a few miles farther up, it would
still be more central. For Fredericton is only eighty-five miles from
the sea; at the lower extremity of the County of York, which extends
upwards to the Canada line about two hundred miles. The large County of
Northumberland joins York on the North and Northeastward, and comprises
all the land from Westmorland, along the Gulf and river of St.
Lawrence, till it likewise joins Canada. These two Counties form more
than two thirds of the whole Province; and will no doubt each require
to be divided into two or more Counties, when they become more fully
settled. Consequently the seat of Government is at present in the most
eligible place for the general convenience of the inhabitants of the
Province at large, than any other situation that possibly could be
selected. Diverging as from a common centre, the distance of the routes
from Fredericton to the most important parts of the Province are nearly
equal, viz. to St. John is about eighty-five miles, passing four
counties in the distance; to St. Andrews, the frontier town, about
ninety miles; to Northumberland about the same distance; to Fort
Cumberland in Westmorland, about one hundred and forty miles; and to
Madawaska, the upper settlement on the great road to Canada, about the
same distance.
In time of war, its situation for a military depot is excellent, as
from the direction of the routes just mentioned, the different
accessible parts of the Province could be easier succoured from here
than any other station. And if reinforcements should have to pass
through the Province to Canada during the winter season. Fredericton
and the Great Falls would always, from their situation, be the natural
depots for troops, stores, &c. Neither if magazines were formed at this
place could there be more danger of their being surprised and taken,
than at any of the sea-ports; for it is nearly one hundred miles from
an enemy's frontier, and there must be a great want of vigilance if any
body of men, sufficient to make an impression, should be allowed to
approach without opposing effectual resistance, or at the worst, taking
such measures as should disappoint them.
The importance of good accommodations for troops marching to Canada, at
Fredericton, and the upper parts of the river St. John, was well
ascertained during the last war, and should not soon be lost sight of.
In short, as nature has given St. John and the other sea-ports
advantages that cannot be taken from them, so Fredericton, from its
central situation, possesses advantages peculiar to itself. Instead,
therefore, of indulging in such partial jealousies, every encouragement
should be given to such towns, as they contribute to the improvement of
the interior of a country from whence most of the resources that
support the sea-ports are drawn.
Fredericton is slowly increasing in buildings and improvements. It has
a considerable share in the lumber trade, for which it is well
situated. Ship-building has also lately been commenced, and will
probably be prosecuted to considerable extent as there are no want of
good situations for launching, and abundance of timber.
If the main streets in Fredericton had been laid out to follow the
windings of the river they would have formed an agreeable curve; the
squares could then have been kept uniform in width, and the main
streets could have continued without a jog, the whole length of the
town, which would be a great improvement to the looks of the place.
SAINT ANDREWS.
The frontier town of New-Brunswick, lies nearly opposite Robinstown, in
the State of Maine. It is a small pleasant sea-port in the County of
Charlotte: being situated near the river Saint Croix, on a narrow strip
of low land fronting the Bay of Passamaquoddy, with a range of hills in
the rear. It has two principal streets, running parallel with the
water, which are intersected by cross streets at right angles. The
principal streets are well built up, and the town contains 2,268
inhabitants, according to the census taken in 1824.--It is conveniently
situated for the fishing trade, as the waters abound with cod, haddock,
pollock, and numbers of other fish, and there are numbers of small
Islands nearly within view of the harbor, very suitable for prosecuting
the fishery to advantage. It carries on a considerable trade in
exporting squared and sawed lumber, and in ship-building--thirteen
vessels were registered in the Port of Saint Andrews in 1824, amounting
to three thousand six hundred and thirty-three tons, all of which had
been built in the County, besides about five hundred and ninety tons,
not included in the above amount.--It contains a neat Church belonging
to the establishment, and a commodious Kirk, built at the sole expense
of Mr. CHRISTOPHER SCOTT, and presented by him to the members of the
Kirk of Scotland. It has also a Grammar School, a Court-House and Gaol;
a Printing Office, with a number of fine private buildings.
Here is likewise a Chamber of Commerce, a Savings' Bank, a Bible
Society, an Agricultural and Emigrant Society for the County, with
other public Institutions for promoting the temporal and spiritual
welfare of the inhabitants.
Saint Andrews being situated on the frontiers of the Province, within
view of the American territories, is a place of great importance in the
event of a rupture with the United States. Considerable works were
erected here during the last war, which are now much gone to decay. A
few troops are, however, usually stationed here. At the Commencement of
the last troubles with America, an agreement was wisely entered into
between the Magistrates of this place, and the American authorities in
its immediate vicinity, to abstain from mutual hostilities, which was
strictly observed during the war, to the mutual advantage of both
parties; who were thereby delivered from the horrors of a predatory,
murderous warfare, equally distressing to both nations.
Saint Andrews being the shire town of the important County of
Charlotte, is silently rising into importance; and will no doubt from
its many natural advantages, always maintain its rank among the
principal towns of this Province.
CHAPTER V.
_Topographical Description of the several Counties in the Province of
New-Brunswick. Their Boundaries and Extent. Parishes. Rivers.
Settlements, Produce, &c. Great Roads, &c._
Having, in the preceding pages, given a brief general description of
New-Brunswick, I shall now proceed to give a short sketch of each
County, comprising a view of the face of the country, principal
streams, settlements, produce, &c. And as five of them lie along the
river St. John, I shall begin at the head of that river, and follow it
to its exit into the Bay of Fundy. The three remaining counties will be
noticed afterwards. Following this method, (which by keeping the
counties and parishes distinct, will give the reader a clearer
knowledge of the country than a more elaborate account, where names and
situations are mentioned without method, and described promiscuously) I
shall confine myself to brevity, at the same time endeavouring to avoid
obscurity; and have to lament that the want of correct information
prevents me from making this part of the work as complete as I could
wish.
SECTION I.
YORK.
This County commences at the Canada line, which bounds it on the
north-west. The County of Northumberland bounds it on the north-east,
on the south-east it adjoins Sunbury, and on the south-west Charlotte,
and contains 10,972 inhabitants.
Beginning at the northern and uppermost part of the county, and
proceeding down the main river St. John, the first settlement is
Madawaska, situated between the Grand Falls and the Madawaska river,
which falls into the St. John at the upper part of the settlement. The
inhabitants are the descendants of the old Acadians, who were settled
on different parts of the river St. John, and who on the arrival of the
English moved up to this place, where, being joined by others from
Canada, they formed this settlement distinct from the English, and have
ever since been quiet subjects, and well affected to the British
Government. Madawaska is about midway between Fredericton and Quebec,
and is in a flourishing state. It has a Romish Chapel, where the rites
and ceremonies of that religion are duly performed by a Missionary from
Canada, who likewise, with the assistance of one or two leading persons
regulates the internal police of the settlement by settling disputes,
keeping the peace, &c. and so successful have they been that although
there are neither lawyers or magistrates in the place, the Courts of
Justice have had but little trouble from that quarter. The land along
the margin of the river is in general good, level, and unbroken; but
owing to its northern situation it is unfavourable to Indian corn; but
wheat, oats, grass, &c. flourish there in great perfection. The
inhabitants are all farmers, and generally raise more than they can
consume, having a surplus of grain to sell to traders in the settlement
or to take to Fredericton. Their manners and habits being simple, they
expend but little on luxuries. Their women manufacture a coarse cloth
and kerseys sufficient for their own consumption. The men are about the
middle size, generally spare built and active; the women, on the
contrary, are very stout and short. They are very lively and
hospitable, but very slovenly in their houses and cookery. In short,
they appear a different race from the English. A stranger going above
the Falls, finds himself suddenly among a new race of people, different
in their language, religion, habitations, and manners.
Below this settlement the country is a wilderness for some distance,
comprising the lands adjoining and below the Grand Falls.
The isthmus formed by the bend of the river at the Grand Falls, was
formerly cleared by the troops stationed at that post. This spot was
selected at the first settlement of the Province for a military
station. It served not only as a security for the settlers at that
period, when the country was a total wilderness and almost impassable,
being without roads or habitations, but also connected and secured the
communication with Canada. Barracks, &c. were constructed and troops
stationed at this place for a number of years. The works are at present
in ruins; although it is no doubt one of the first interior positions
in the Province. This place forms one of the great features of
New-Brunswick. Here the navigation of the great river St. John is
totally obstructed, and the upper part of the country disjoined from
the seaboard. This points out the great importance of its situation, as
the great connecting point and centre for the intercourse and trade of
the upper country, whenever it becomes fully settled. Its situation
will no doubt soon attract a settlement, and in process of time a town
will arise, which will be the depot for goods from the seaboard, where
they will be exchanged for the produce of the upper part of the
country. A canal or tunnel cut through the isthmus, will probably
follow. This would be of the utmost advantage to the Province, by
connecting the navigation and developing the resources of the upper
country, which are said to be almost inexhaustible. The distance to cut
would be nearly one hundred rods. The isthmus being ninety rods across,
from bank to bank, the descent of the water would be nearly half an
inch to a foot.
Descending the St. John seven miles below the falls, it receives the
Salmon river, a considerable stream from the east, and eleven miles
farther the Restook falls into it from the westward. This is a fine
river, running in a very crooked direction through a fine country
abounding in excellent land and well stored with timber of the first
quality. It makes to the southwest and has been explored upwards of one
hundred miles, where it continues of a good width. It is supposed to be
of great length and is claimed by the United States, although some of
the British settlers have lately commenced establishing themselves on
the river and are making very free with the pine. Three miles below the
Restook, the Tobique, named for its red pines, brings its tribute to
the St. John. This is another considerable river, being upwards of two
hundred miles in length. Its banks to a good distance back have been
covered with pines of the finest growth, which have been mostly cut
off. The soil in the pine districts is not favorable for farming
pursuits, but would require much labor to bring it to a state fit for
cultivation. There are, however, some good Islands in the course of the
river, and strips of rich land intermixed with the pine districts, and
the lands adjoining the Tobique lying along the banks of the Saint John
are of the finest quality; and where cultivated produce the most
abundant crops. A district comprising ten miles extending along the
river Saint John and embracing both sides of the Tobique is reserved
for the Indians. This tract is certainly not inferior to any land in
the Province, and it is a pity it should remain in its present
unimproved state. The Indians have only a small clearing at the mouth
of the Tobique, where they have a hut which is reserved as a Chapel,
and where one or two Indians generally sit down as they term it, to
watch a small crop, and keep possession.
After the peace with America in 1814, a number of disbanded, men of the
8th, 98th, and 104th regiments, and of the West-India Rangers and
New-Brunswick Fencibles, were settled on this part of the river Saint
John, chiefly between the military post of Presqu-Isle and the Indian
reserve. Many of these settlers have made good improvements, and have
already secured a comfortable independency. The wilderness has been
converted into cultivated fields, covered with habitations; and the
district formed into a Parish, and named after his Royal Highness the
late Duke of Kent.--It extends on both sides of the river from the
Grand Falls to the Parish of Wakefield. The land is of a superior
quality, covered with a variety of timber of the tallest growth, and
unincumbered with much undergrowth; the trees standing in most places
so far apart, that a man on horse-back would be but seldom incommoded
by them. This is of great advantage to the settler, as it relieves him
from the great labor of clearing away the under brush, which is so
troublesome in some parts of the country. Nor is this fine tract of
land confined to the margin of the river, but extends back, and is
found in many places to improve as you advance into the interior. The
United States line approaches the river St. John within a few miles
along this Parish, and they have a township laid out, embracing Mars
Hill before described. It is to be regretted that many of the settlers
in this Parish having formerly been accustomed to the free use of
spirituous liquors, find the temptation revived by the great
introduction of them by the lumber speculators, who in many instances
are drawing the settlers from their domestic habits, to which they
began to be accustomed, to a dissipated mode of living, to the loss of
their morals and property.
Descending the Saint John, which every few miles receives the tribute
of some considerable creek or river, we arrive at the Presqu-Isle. This
was formerly a military post; Barracks, &c. having been erected at this
place shortly after the American revolution sufficient to accommodate
three companies of foot, which are now in ruins. A few soldiers were
stationed here till 1822, since which period the place has been totally
abandoned as a military station. The bank at this place is high and the
spot where the Barracks stood very pleasant, commanding a fine view of
the adjacent country, having a beautiful Island directly in front. To a
contemplative mind this spot must be interesting when he reflects that
the soldiers who forced their way from Fredericton through the
wilderness to construct these works, have fallen by the sword and
disease; that the men who projected them, as well as those who
superintended their construction, are mouldering in their graves--that
the conductors of the boats which transported the supplies are now no
more--and that the boats are now in view from the site of the Barracks
lying in the bushes and falling gradually to pieces.--If he is an old
settler, this must have past within his memory, and may teach him the
instability of all human affairs. Eight miles below the Presqu-Isle a
stream called the Pekagomique falls into the Saint John on the eastern
side. The land on this stream is very good, and a settlement is begun a
few miles from its mouth, it has good mills and is well stored with
timber. There are several other streams in the Parish of Wakefield,
which extends on both sides of the river, till it joins Woodstock on
the western and Northampton on the eastern side about sixty-three miles
above Fredericton. It is a flourishing Parish, the land being of a good
quality, the farms along the river are improving, and back settlements
forming.
Woodstock is generally well settled. The houses are neat, and make a
fine appearance as the traveller passes along the river. There are some
fine islands in this part of the river, which enrich the settlers by
their produce.--There is an Episcopal Church in this Parish, which has
been filled ever since its erection by the Rev. Mr. DIBBLEE, who
likewise officiates occasionally in the adjoining Parishes. The river
Madaxnikik passes through this Parish to its exit into the Saint John,
and adds to its importance, as several settlements are making along its
banks. This stream has a series of cataracts, and passes by the
American settlement of Houlton which lies directly in the rear of
Woodstock, and commences about fifteen miles from the Saint John. From
this settlement there is a road to the Penobscot river. Eel river falls
into the Saint John near the lower part of Woodstock. This river heads
near the sources of the Saint Croix; a short portage leads from the
waters of one river to the other. Opposite Woodstock on the eastern
side of the river lies the Parish of Northampton, which extends down to
Queensbury. This Parish is well settled, as is the adjoining Parish of
Queensbury. Several streams intersect these Parishes, the most
considerable of which are the Nachiwikik and Mactuqaack.
The farms along this part of the country, are in many places well
improved: but the soil is not equal to the upper part of the river.
There are, however, a succession of fine Islands, which compensate for
the inferiority of the upland.
There is an Episcopal Church at the lower part of Queensbury, which is
filled occasionally by the Rev. Mr. SOMERVILLE, President of the
College of New-Brunswick, and itinerant Missionary for this part of the
country.
Prince William adjoins Woodstock on the Western side of the river. The
upper part of this Parish is but little improved, a large district
belonging to the Chief Justice being mostly a wilderness. The soil,
likewise, is inferior to the land above. The lower part of the Parish
is, however highly improved, some parts being interval land of the
first quality. There are several fine lakes back of this parish, one of
which named Lake George, has a fine settlement on its banks. This lake
discharges its waters into the St. John, by a stream called the
Poquihouk, which is an Indian name, signifying a dreadful place, and a
dreadful place it certainly is. The water just before its exit into the
St. John, appears to have been originally pent up by the high bank
along the river. Through this it has forced a passage, and tumbles down
the rocks and precipices with dreadful impetuosity. The passage through
which it passes is very narrow and nearly seventy feet perpendicular,
composed of large stones, which appear as if they had been laid by
Masons; the whole forming a sublime and terrific appearance. There is a
Chapel belonging to the Baptists in this Parish.
Several of the officers and men of the King's American Dragoons were
formerly settled here, very few of whom are at present alive. Some of
their descendants are occupying their lands and doing well.
The Parish of Kingsclear, which adjoins Prince William, has nothing
peculiar, the soil being much the same as the latter. The face of the
country is hilly, interspersed with several streams well adapted for
mill seats. Many individuals of the reduced Battalion of the New Jersey
Volunteers settled in this Parish, some of whom are still living and
doing well. A Baptist Chapel has lately been erected here, in which
worship is occasionally performed. Opposite this Parish on the eastern
side of the river is the Parish of Douglas, so called in honor of the
present Lieutenant-Governor of the Province. It adjoins Queensbury, and
extends down nearly to the Nashwaack. The Madam Keswick, a considerable
stream, intersects this Parish. This is an extensive settlement, and
was formed by the York Volunteers and some of the Royal Guides and
Pioneers. The settlements on the Keswick Ridge and Mactuquask lie
between this stream and the main river, and are in a flourishing state.
It has a back settlement on the Nashwacksis and another one still
farther in the wilderness, called Cardigan, formed by a number of Welsh
families from Cardigan in Wales, who came to this Province in 1819, and
were located here by Government. Being very destitute, they were
enabled to commence settling by a subscription of the inhabitants of
Fredericton, aided by the Emigrant Society. This Parish has a Church
near the mouth of the Madam Keswick, and two Chapels belonging to the
Methodists and Baptists.
The Parish of St. Mary's, which formerly included the Parish just
mentioned, extends to the County line, and joins Maugerville on the
eastern side of the river. The river Nashwaack runs through this
Parish, and falls into the St. John opposite Fredericton. This stream
was settled by part of the 42d Regiment and some of the disbanded corps
that had been raised in America during the war. It is settled for more
than thirty miles along its banks, having a mixture of good intervale
and high land along its course. About five miles from its confluence
with the St. John, it receives the waters of the Peniack, a
considerable stream with a settlement along its banks, and about twelve
miles further up, the river Tay falls into it. There are two Chapels in
this settlement, one belonging to the Methodists and the other to the
Baptists. They have no stated Ministers, but are visited occasionally.
The road from Fredericton to Miramichi in the County of Northumberland
leads through this settlement.
The Parish of Fredericton adjoins Kingsclear, and extends to the Parish
of Lincoln in the County of Sunbury. It includes the town of
Fredericton, before described, with a back settlement called New
Maryland, and another on the Rushagoannes. The road from Fredericton to
St. Andrews passes through these settlements, and is fast improving.
The lands in the immediate vicinity of the town are not much improved.
Having been reserved for the College, they remain without tenants; the
settlers in this country not liking to lease farms, which are hard to
clear up, when they can obtain lots for themselves by paying the grant
fees. A great part of the land in the site of the town, likewise
belongs to the College or Church, or is reserved for Government uses,
which has been and still remains a great check to the growth and
improvement of the Town.
The County of York is upwards of two hundred miles in length. A great
portion of the lands in this county are well adapted to grain,
particularly wheat. It is well stored with excellent timber and abounds
with navigable rivers and streams. It is settling and improving very
fast, and furnishes the major part of the lumber shipped at the port of
St. John. Fredericton is the principal Town, and situated within four
miles of the lower extremity of the County.--The inconvenience of the
Courts, &c. being established at the extremity of such extensive
Counties are many, and amount almost to a denial of justice to the
distant settlers, who have to travel from one to two hundred miles to
the County Courts. The consequence is that wrongs are frequently
unredressed, and crimes, if not of a capital nature, are often
unnoticed; which if not remedied will in time have a pernicious effect
on the moral character of the inhabitants.