The _Forum_ was situated below the Capitoline hill, between it and the

Palatine. This is the real point from which the reform of the topography

of Rome must proceed, for point by point can be established by the

aid of the ancient authors. I there made the beginning of some happy

discoveries, which, however, were not continued, because those who have

it in their power to grant permission, are afraid lest their arbitrary

assertions should be overturned. Materials are not wanting, and many have

undertaken the task, but a singular misfortune seems to hang over these

things. In the earlier times this part of Roman topography was sadly

bungled, even by most excellent men, and Nardini proceeded in quite a

wrong way. He is one of those who, with great industry but insufficient

learning, produced very little; he did not understand Greek, but helped

himself by means of Latin translations, whence he often commits the

strangest blunders. Notwithstanding his great diligence, he has not only

produced bad and perverse results, but has done positive harm by making

posterity acquiesce in his conclusions, for, until our own days, it was

the prevalent opinion that he had settled every point, and people were

satisfied with having read Nardini. Hence his work has been translated

into Latin and incorporated in the “Thesaurus Antiquitatum Romanorum.”

There were only few able men that were not misled by his authority, and

ventured upon independent investigations after him, such as Ficoroni,

though he entered only into special points. I knew at Rome a bookseller,

a respectable and unassuming person, whose business was stopped for no

other reason but because he had disregarded the authority of Nardini.

Morelli, an excellent Italian, has written a treatise on the decay of

scholarship in Italy, in which he makes a witty application of the

scriptural expression, “Ablatum ab Israel, translatum ad gentes,” telling

his countrymen, that they have to learn their own antiquities from

foreigners, and that philology in Italy is at an end. This is not indeed

quite true, but the Italians are not sure in their own minds, they are

often influenced by a certain feeling of uneasiness, and do not possess

calm confidence. An honest inquirer need not despond; he does not mind

owning that he has been mistaken, for who is exempt from it! Whoever

makes great pretensions without having corresponding abilities, becomes

unfaithful to truth, and will endeavour to crush and calumniate others,

in order to preserve for himself dictatorial influence. Such is the case

of Fea. Roman topography, as I have said before, was brought by Nardini

to a stand still which lasted more than a century and a half. Zoëga

too has made inquiries into it: being a Dane he is almost a countryman

of mine, and I do not undervalue his learning; but if his works were

written at the present time, the true scholars of Germany would not be

a little surprised, for he was entirely deficient in real grammatical

knowledge. He directed his mind and attention to things about which a

healthy philology does not concern itself, such as the Egyptian mysteries

and the like. His reading was uncommonly extensive, but he had little

scholarship, and owing to this he will be forgotten. He had examined the

antiquities of Rome, and had read all the books upon them, but formed no

sound conception of the ancient city. Nardini was quite aware that the

Forum was the heart of Rome, both topographically and politically, but

he unfortunately took an entirely wrong direction; instead of making the

buildings succeed one another on the left, he makes them follow on the

right, and puts in juxtaposition those which belong to different periods.

Hence his confusion; his view of ancient Rome is altogether false. I have

gained the right point of view in a peculiar way, and am quite certain

of its correctness. I will relate the matter to you as an example of a

thread in a labyrinth. Pliny states that, before sun-dials were known

at Rome, the parts of the day, sunrise, noon, and sunset were cried

out. But the Romans did not calculate according to the moment when the

sun really set, but from the moment when the sun was no longer visible

in the Forum. By this means it was determined as to whether an act had

taken place at the right time or not, for the Romans were very exact

in such trifles. Now in the Forum the sun became invisible about three

minutes before the real sunset; the crier called out from the Curia,

and at the different seasons of the year stated, when he had seen the

sun. I have been on the spot innumerable times, and knew the district as

well as I knew my own room; I sought the place where the Curia must have

stood, and made experiments by watching the sun from that point at the

different seasons of the year. By this means I obtained the advantage

of certainty in regard to the whole side near the Palatine. Having once

found the Curia Hostilia, I had at the same time the Comitium[20] and

the Graecostasis. In a poem of Statius there occurs a description of

the gigantic equestrian statue of Domitian, and the poet says that it

looked towards the temple of Concord: the site of this statue I also

succeeded in discovering. It then happened very fortunately that during

an excavation an enormous cube was found, on which smaller cubes had

been fastened bearing pillars: this was the identical pedestal of the

equestrian statue of Domitian. It is clear, that its base consisted of

bricks with a coating of marble; the masonry belongs to a period which

a practised eye cannot mistake, and we may assert, that the great cubic

block was built before the time of Severus, for afterwards the masonry

became quite different. In the Monumentum Ancyranum of Augustus, the

author, in speaking of a basilica, mentions that a temple of Castor

was adjoining it; and this temple I discovered with the assistance of

Statius. Its site is a subject of great difficulty, for according to the

Monumentum Ancyranum, it was adjoining the basilica Julia, whereas it is

commonly supposed to have been situated on the other side; but I knew

from Ovid[21], that it was at the end of the Forum, and in this manner

the whole Forum was made out.

Respecting the extent of the Roman Forum equally erroneous notions are

current, because not only the district occupied by the ancient Forum,

but the whole valley far and wide, up to the eminence from which the

Via Sacra came down, has several times been covered with rubbish. This

whole district is now called Campo Vaccino, and Andreas Fulvius and

Bartholomaeus Marliani imagined that all this space, from the Capitol

to the arch of Titus, was occupied by the Forum. People were the more

tempted to assume this extent, as they entertained the most exaggerated

notions about the population and magnitude of the city, as is the case,

e.g., in Lipsius’ book, “De Magnitudine Urbis Romae.” He believes that

Rome extended north as far as Civita Castellana, a distance of from

thirty-five to forty English miles; for he imagined that the numbers of

the census under the first emperors were those of the inhabitants of the

city, whereas they embraced the whole body of citizens, and accordingly

amounted to millions. Nothing can be more senseless than what Lipsius

has written on this subject; the exaggerations are enormous: sometimes

he was misled by appearances, but sometimes he has not even this excuse.

The Forum, in comparison with the present Campo Vaccino, was small, and

in all our maps it is pushed too far towards the Capitol. It was situated

between the Tarpeian and the Palatine, but did not occupy the whole

length of the Capitoline; the triumphal arch of Septimius Severus stood

beside, and not in, the Forum.

The first question here is as to the distinction between the Forum and

the _Comitium_. In the earliest times they were as different as the

populus was from the plebs: the Comitium being the place of assembly

for the curiae (patricians), and the Forum the original market-place,

in which, however, the plebeians met for the purpose of voting. The

Comitium has been the subject of endless discussions and controversies,

but most of the opinions about it are quite foolish. Things went so far

that Nardini gained immense applause from the _imperiti_ when he declared

that the Comitium was the building of which three pillars are still

standing: but these pillars belong to the Curia Julia. The Comitium was

no building at all, it was nothing but an open place, and a part of the

Forum in its wider sense. Both the Forum and the Comitium are parts of

the same plain; at a later time the Comitium, in every-day language, was

included in the word Forum, and there can be no doubt that the portico

surrounding the Forum also inclosed the Comitium. The _rostra_ formed

the separation between the two. It is difficult to give you an accurate

idea of the rostra, for we have no word conveying an adequate notion.

Imagine a _suggestum_ about twelve feet in breadth and at least thirty

in length; imagine this to be of the height of a full-grown man, perhaps

even somewhat higher, and on both sides steps leading up to it. I should

never have been able to form a correct notion of it, had it not been

for the fortunate accident, that just during my residence at Rome the

new rostra were excavated. No person recognised it or understood what

it was; I was not inclined to enter into a dispute, but only took my

friend, De Serre, the greatest orator of the present time, to see the

spot, where if he had lived in ancient times, he would have achieved as

great a reputation as any other. The inner kernel only remains, which is

constructed of beautiful bricks and cement. The outside was probably,

or I may say certainly, covered with marble, and the beaks of the ships

(_rostra navium Antiatum_ or _Antiatium_) were walled in in the front.

So long as I had no correct notion of the rostra, I could not understand

the meaning of the words _statuae in rostris positae_; it is only on such

an extensive platform that they could be set up. Such a space is quite

natural if we bear in mind the animated character of southern oratory,

in which the speaker is in constant communication with those around him.

One may still see this. There was at Rome a highly respectable monk who

preached every Sunday, and during Lent, daily, in the Colosseum. He

stood in the open air, and walked up and down as if he were conversing

with his hearers. I think I never heard a sermon that made a deeper

impression: sometimes he stood still, and sometimes he went from one

to another of his hearers, without, however, calling any one by his

name. It is this active communication with the audience that produced

the _percussio laterum_; if a man, standing on a small platform, were

to do this often, he would become ridiculous. At Athens, the case was

different; the orators there did not move about so much, and the βῆμα

seems to have been smaller; I have not indeed found any passage about

it in the ancients, but I infer it from the locality; and according to

the descriptions we have of it, it seems that it could not have been

otherwise. Upon the rostra, at Rome, the statues stood _in loco aprico

et conspicuo_. In the most ancient language, this platform was called

_templum_, and the new name arose in 417, from the beaks of the ships,

with which the front was adorned. I have often been on that spot, and

often stood in the Roman Forum: who will describe the emotions that rise

in one’s breast on a spot where Tiberius spoke upon Augustus, and other

relations upon Germanicus (for these rostra are not the most ancient),

where all the funeral orations upon the emperors were delivered, and

where all great solemnities took place! And how wretched, how bare, and

how stripped is that spot of all its splendour! Before you, you have Rome

and its most ancient monuments, the career of Ancus Marcius; on the other

side, the place once occupied by the temple of Concord, which Camillus

built after having appeased the plebs: the lacus Servilius, where in the

days of Sulla the heads of the proscribed were stuck up; the site of the

temples of Castor and Vesta, and the Capitoline district: to such a place

one can always return with a feeling of reverence; there one may imbibe

the inspiration for writing the history of ancient times, and there

one becomes familiar with it. The most ancient rostra were, no doubt,

constructed of peperino. According to Plutarch, C. Gracchus transferred

the real sovereignty to the people, by turning towards the Forum and the

commonalty, instead of facing the Comitium where the patricians and the

senate stood. Until then it had been customary for the orator, even when

communicating something to the plebeians, to turn towards the patricians:

but Gracchus turned round, and thus symbolically threw off the mask

which he had worn until then. The present level of the Forum is about

twenty-five or twenty-six feet higher than in ancient times.

The _Curia Hostilia_ was situated on the πρόπους of the Palatine, just

opposite the narrow side of the rostra. Its name is no doubt derived

from Tullus Hostilius, who is certainly an historical personage; but we

ought not to assert that he reigned from A.U. 78 till 110, for no one

can know when he lived. This Curia existed down to the time of Cicero,

when the populace led on by Sext. Clodius, carried into it the body of P.

Clodius, who had been killed by Milo, and, in burning the corpse, reduced

the building to ashes. Even Sulla had made some alterations in the

district around the rostra, but we do not know in what they consisted.

The Curia was not restored on the ancient site, but farther to the right;

Caesar commenced the new building, and Augustus completed it: this is

the _Curia Julia_, near which the new rostra were constructed. The three

splendid Corinthian columns which are still standing, belong to this

Curia Julia; they stand parallel to the ridge of the Palatine and the

line of the Capitoline, and are generally considered to have belonged

to the temple of Jupiter Stator, while Fea believes them to be remnants

of the temple of Castor. This latter hypothesis is impossible, for we

read in Suetonius[22] that the arch of Caligula extended over the temple

of Castor as far as the Capitol: but this is impossible, if the three

columns belonged to the temple of Castor. They belong, I repeat it, to

the Curia Julia; and this accounts for the fact that the rostra are found

close by, and that the Capitoline Fasti, which formed one wall in that

Curia, were found among its ruins. There can be no doubt that the very

ancient plan of Rome,[23] which formed the floor of the church S. Cosma e

Damiano, likewise belonged to it: there could not be a better place for

it than one of the walls in the Curia Julia. The idea of Pirro Ligorio,

that the Fasti were set up in an arch, is as improbable as many others of

his views; attempts have been made to justify him, but he has evidently

been guilty of many falsehoods. Notwithstanding this, however, his papers

ought not to be neglected; they are preserved partly in the Vatican and

partly among the manuscripts at Turin.[24] Rome, accordingly, had two

Curiae, the Hostilia and Julia, which, however, did not exist at any

time simultaneously; but the two rostra, the _vetera_ and the _nova_ or

_Julia_, both existed at the same time. The _nova rostra_ were built on

the site of the ancient Curia.

The whole of the Forum was surrounded by a portico, which had been built

either in the time of the kings or at the commencement of the republic;

the columns were undoubtedly Etruscan, that is, old Doric, and the whole

was made of peperino, covered with stucco, and not high. The booths

(_tabernae_ or _mensae argentariorum_), the stalls of money-changers or

bankers, were set up in this portico to be protected against the weather.

The armour taken from an enemy after a glorious victory was hung upon the

pillars, whence the expression _postes ornare tropaeis_ in one of the

fragments of Ennius. Whether these trophies were carefully preserved, is

unknown; but the old ones probably made room for new ones, though many a

splendid memorial may have been seen there for a long time. In the Forum,

below the Capitol, but beyond the clivus, were the temples of Saturn and

Concord; further, when you look southward, having the Capitoline on the

right and the Palatine on the left, you have on your right-hand side the

temple of Castor, which was dedicated by the dictator A. Postumius; near

it was the well of Juturna, in which the Dioscuri, after the battle of

lake Regillus, washed their horses; next to it was the temple of Vesta,

of which remains would certainly be found, if excavations were made;

distinct mention of it is made in books written as late as the fifteenth

century. On the opposite side was situated the Regia and the Atrium

Vestae, which ought not to be confounded with the temple of that goddess.

Rome contained many Atria, that is, open square spaces surrounded by

houses and a portico, under which people walked in rainy weather.

Such was the Atrium Libertatis, a kind of _bourse_; the most correct

Latin name for a _bourse_ or exchange accordingly would be _atrium

negotiatorum_ or _mercatorum_. The Atrium Vestae must have been like the

cloisters of a monastery, the cells of the Vestals being built around a

square; the priestesses moreover were buried beside the Atrium, as they

had the privilege of being buried within the city. This circumstance

has caused great confusion in the antiquities of Rome, for when in the

sixteenth century the church of S. Maria Liberatrice was erected on

the left-hand side of the Atrium Vestae, and a number of tomb-stones

of Vestal virgins were found there, it was inferred at once that this

must be the site of the temple of Vesta. But this is opposed to all the

statements of the ancients. I think it was one of my friends who had the

happy idea that the temple ought not to be sought near the Atrium; I had

previously said, that I could not believe the temple to have been there,

and that, from all accounts, I must infer that it stood on the opposite

side, not far from the lacus Curtius.

The Forum contained yet another class of buildings; it certainly was a

market-place as well as a place for assembling; but in ancient times it

was also the place for the administration of justice. In like manner, our

own ancestors met under the open sky, and the estates of Lüneburg, as

late as 1660, assembled in a forest, because decrees formed in a covered

building were considered invalid. Such also was the case at Rome, all

business was transacted in the open air. This is the native and natural

custom of Italy: man there feels the necessity of living and doing his

work under the free canopy of heaven; every artizan, if the weather

permits it, works in front of his house where he has his shop. There

still exist at Rome a great many houses built in exactly the same style

as in the most ancient times. These shops have no windows, but are closed

by means of a large door; and in bad weather the people take refuge

within and work by candle-light; when the weather becomes fine again,

they resume their seats in the door or in the street. Such also was the

case with the ancients. Those who worked with their minds, had similar

arrangements: during the night they remained in their rooms, but in the

day-time they walked out into the open air, to some public place where

they dictated or wrote. The air at Rome is very good, if we consider the

dress of the ancients, which consisted of wool, over which they wore the

toga; the climate is more healthy than ours, and old age there commences

later than with us. Justice, as I said before, was administered in the

Forum in the open air; but as this was not without its disadvantages, it

became necessary to devise some protection against them. When the Romans

had become acquainted with Greece, they were much pleased with the στοὰ

βασίλειος at Athens, and the idea of building _basilicae_ suggested

itself to them. The Stoa at Athens was probably a portico composed of

several rows (we do not know how long these rows were), and afforded

both sufficient light and protection in bad weather. When, therefore, an

active intercourse between Rome and Greece had arisen, the Romans built

such basilicae as courts of justice. They are by no means imitations

of royal palaces of the East. Later Greeks, e.g., Agathias, always

translate the word basilicae, whether at Rome or at Constantinople, by

στοὰ βασίλειος. We must conceive that originally they were mere rows

of columns supporting a roof, and without side-walls. They generally

had six rows of columns in front, so that there were five entrances.

Afterwards the two extreme rows, the first and sixth, were changed

into walls; the back part also was walled up, and the tribunal for the

presiding praetor was set up in a crescent formed in this back wall.

This is the origin of the closed buildings called basilicae. As they

were well adapted for public meetings, they became, ever since the time

of Constantine, the regular types of Christian churches. What was the

construction of churches before the time of Constantine, is a question

which we cannot answer; we do not possess the slightest allusion to it.

An immense number of fables are current respecting churches said to have

been built by Constantine, but the only one which he really did build,

is still known; it is the church of the Lateran, justly called _princeps

ecclesiarum urbis et orbis_. The day on which that church was consecrated

by Constantine, is quite certain, and is celebrated every year, I

believe about the end of November. The import of this festival of the

consecration of the Church has at Rome itself been completely forgotten,

and there is not one canon of the Lateran who knows it. I have learned

it from an old Flemish gentleman, who, among much that was strange,

also possessed a good deal of interesting information. The form of the

basilicae, as I have described it, is very ancient, and in the Christian

churches it is quite simple: all have five gates, and in the interior,

four rows of columns, the two inner ones high, and the outer ones lower.

This change, however, was not a matter of necessity. From this form I

recognised the _basilica C. et L. Caesarum_, _Julia_, or _Caesaris_ in

what is commonly called the temple of Concord.

In the course of time the Forum became quite filled with basilicae,

monuments, statues, and the like; it contained three or four basilicae,

the Opimia, Porcia, Paulli, etc. Caesar set up a number of statues, so

that during the latter period of the republic there was little space

left for public assemblies, which, however, even without this, were

rarely held; the idea of a free space must in the end have been entirely

forgotten, and the comitium alone preserved this character. About sixty

years ago, the pavement of the Comitium consisting of slabs of the most

beautiful yellow Numidian marble, was discovered, but it was broken to

pieces and sold in a disgraceful manner. In later times all the edifices

were rebuilt, and the portico was restored with far more splendour (we

know this from Orosius) and floored with magnificent stones, while the

roof was of bronze and no doubt gilt.

This may suffice in regard to the Forum Romanum or Maximum. The word

Forum originally, as is stated by the ancient lexicographers, signified

“hollow ground;” but afterwards it assumed the same meaning as ἀγορά, and

thus presupposes an open space. In later times the meaning underwent so

strange a change, that the Fora, e.g., the Forum Ulpium or Trajani, were

not open spaces at all, but places wholly covered with buildings. Of the

same kind were the Fora of Nerva and Domitian. The same must be supposed

to have been the case even with the Forum of Caesar; in regard to that of

Augustus, it may appear doubtful, as to whether a portion of it was not

an open space. This change arose from the fact, that the idea of a free

space, in the case of the Forum Maximum, was entirely lost sight of, and

a Forum was regarded as a place containing courts of justice.

As, therefore, the ancient Forum was already filled with basilicae,

Caesar, wishing to build a handsome one, erected it in a separate

locality, which he purchased by the side of the Forum. This is the _Forum

Caesaris_, which was not an open space at all, but a basilica with the

temple of Venus Genitrix. It was situated at the foot of the Palatine,

by the side of the Forum Maximum, its southern part turning towards the

Vicus Tuscus, opposite the temple of Castor, as I have ascertained beyond

a doubt. I cannot give you the proofs, because I have neither maps nor

plans at hand.

The next _Forum_ planned in the same manner is that of _Augustus_, except

that a portion of it was probably an open space. It was situated at some

distance from the Roman Forum, beyond the Via Sacra and, perhaps, a

few more streets. Hirt, who is himself not rich in ideas, but in Roman

topography has often successfully revived those of earlier writers (such

as Palladio and Serlio), has demonstrated the site of this Forum. He is

not a learned man, but has a well practised eye in observing antiquities;

none of his own original views are good, but among the things he finds

in earlier authors, he can well distinguish what is correct from what

is not, a thing which learned men often cannot. The Forum of Augustus

contained the temple of Mars Ultor, where the standards of Crassus,

recovered from the Parthians, were set up, and also a magnificent

basilica; there also stood—it was a noble conception—the statues of the

most illustrious Romans, which had formerly stood in the market-place

and in the orchestra of the theatre, with the _tituli gestorum_. A

fragment of the latter is still extant fastened in a wall of the Vatican;

but it is not even possible to see whose name is mentioned in it. The

writing certainly belongs to the age of Augustus, as every one can see

who has an eye for such things. I cannot be mistaken in such a matter,

I can immediately see whether an inscription was cut before the time of

Caesar or in the age of Augustus. Such things make a residence at Rome

so pleasing, when on seeing monuments one can immediately determine to

what period they belong. The inscriptions, however, are still extant in

copies, as for instance, at Pesaro. About a Roman mile from Tivoli, I

found an overturned pedestal of a statue of Plancus, with an inscription,

which had been quite rudely cut by a common mason, probably an ignorant

slave. I was not able to convince a native of Tivoli, who even wrote on

the antiquities of his own town, that such inscriptions are genuine.

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