3d of October. A general Thanksgiving was immediately performed, and
orders issued for proclaiming the Grand Signior _gazi_, or victorious.
LETTER XXVIII.
TO CAPTAIN SMITH.
Constantinople, Jan. 1st, 1789.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
An unexpected opportunity having offered to carry us to Constantinople,
we set sail for the Dardanelles on the 25th Oct. having previously sent
to desire an express might meet us there, with the Grand Signior's
permission to pass the forts, and go up to his capital. A favor, which,
through the interest of Sir Robert Ainslie, our Ambassador, the Porte
very readily granted.
This permission, however, is a compliment seldom or ever paid to a man
of war of any nation, except when she has an Ambassador on board; and it
was the more flattering to us, because L'Iris, a French frigate,
commanded by the Viscount D'Orleans, which was lying close to us,
applied for it in vain at the moment we gained it. To add to the
compliment, the Governor of the forts which command the pass, promised
to salute us.
Nothing could be more delightful than our voyage through these straits.
The country on each side is beautifully picturesque, and the situation
in itself highly interesting. The Dardanelles, you recollect, are the
ancient Hellespont, and the spots on which the forts stand, are famous
for the loves of Hero and Leander. Behind us were the Tomb of Achilles,
the Semois and Scamander, the celebrated rivers of Troy, and every point
brought an interesting character to our view.
The day was most heavenly; and our ship, elegantly painted, and all her
appointments in the highest order, formed in herself a most beautiful
object. Every sail was set, and the breeze had just strength enough to
enable her to overcome the force of the current. This occasional
slowness of her motion, added to the majesty of her appearance, and one
might almost have fancied that she herself was conscious of the
compliments she was receiving from the mouths of the cannon of Europe
and Asia.
The Turks at the Dardanelles always salute with ball, and the nearer
they go to the vessel, the greater the compliment. Each fort fired
seventeen guns; their cannon are monstrous, and the shot flying _en
ricochet_ along the smooth surface of the water across our bows, from
Europe and Asia alternately, and throwing up the sand on the opposite
shores, while shouts of applause from the admiring multitude, hailed us
on our returning their salute, crowned this charming morning.
It was near dusk when we got to Galipoli, where the straits open into
the sea of Marmora, and on the 15th of November we arrived here.
The approach to Constantinople by sea is thought superior to that of
Naples, or Messina, and of course the finest in the world; we missed
seeing it, by entering at night--a loss we hope to compensate on our
departure.
Travellers in general express great disappointment when they get into
the town; and in comparison of European capitals, the streets are
certainly miserable, and the buildings in general but paltry; but as
they are much superior to any I have seen in the Turkish dominions, I
confess that they have exceeded my expectations.
Some of the Mosques are tolerable edifices, however different from our
taste in the ornamental part of architecture. To these Christians are
prohibited access; but the Turks, like other people, are not always
proof against bribery. I have been shewn several, and among the rest,
the celebrated one of St. Sophia, supposed to have been built by
Constantine the Great. But in which I was very much disappointed. The
dome only is tolerable. It is supported by two tier of columns of verde
antique. From this style of architecture, and the value of the marble,
one would expect a rich and elegant appearance, but the magnificent
effect of the double tier of columns, is lost by the entablature being
supported by arches, which reduces the columns to mere piers; and thus,
in comparison of other works of the ancients, the design becomes poor
and inelegant. The capitals are by no means chaste, and the architecture
throughout is very indifferently executed.
The Navy Hospital, though small, would do credit to any nation; and some
of the Grand Signior's summer palaces, constructed in the Chinese style,
display an elegant neatness which could not be surpassed, even by that
ingenious people. But the Seraglio, as far as I was admitted, has
nothing to boast of. I have been through most parts of the first court
on the inside, which contain the Mint, and some other public offices,
and have once or twice been just within the gate of the Seraglio
gardens; but to the inner court no common bribe will gain a Christian
admittance, except when an Ambassador has an audience of the Sultan, and
this happens but once during his residence; for Foreign Ministers
transact no business with the Grand Signior in person, and never visit
him but on their arrival, to deliver their credentials.
We are lucky enough to be here at such a moment, for the new Venetian
Ambassador is to have his audience of introduction in a few days, and
has promised to take me in his suite. On this occasion, I shall have the
honor of dining with the Reis Effendi, and the other Grand Officers of
State, in the interior part of the Seraglio.
I have already seen the Grand Signior several times, for he goes
publicly to Mosque every Friday; and I attended the Prussian Envoy when
he had his audience of the Caimacan, or acting Grand Vizir, from whom I
had the honor of receiving a muslin handkerchief. It is not very fine,
being only intended as a mark of amity, for the Turks strictly adhere to
the Oriental custom of giving presents, and their government seems to
retain much of its primitive institution. Civil and religious law, as in
the days of the Patriarchs, form but one code. The Coran is the book,
and the Mufti the head of both. Like the practice of earlier ages, also,
he who rules the state in time of peace, leads her armies in time of
war. Thus the Grand Vizir is at once Prime Minister, as well as
Captain-General, and Commander in Chief of the forces. The police of the
town resembles the discipline of a camp; the people retire at dusk,
patroles are established, and in case of fire, or any other alarm, the
Grand Signior himself, and all the Great Officers are immediately
abroad. Were the Sovereign to neglect appearing on occasions of this
kind, it would be thought as great a reflection on him, as if, as a
General, he remained in his tent when his camp was attacked.
Immense as the Ottoman Empire is, the whole number of those troops that,
from being constantly embodied, can be called regulars, amount to but
about twenty-six thousand foot, and a few thousand horse. Among the
former are a corps of Gardeners, (Bostangi) and another of Porters
(Capigi) and these are part of the Sultan's body guards. The head
gardener (Bostangi Bashaw) is, by virtue of his employment, Governor of
all the forts on the Bosphorus, commonly called the Canal of the Black
Sea, and the first of the Black Eunuchs, is also by his Office, Governor
and Commander in Chief of the Seraglio, or Grand Palace and Citadel of
Constantinople.
The canal, including its windings, is about twenty miles in length, and
in most parts not more than a mile wide, which defends the capital
against an attack by shipping from the Black Sea, whilst the
Dardanelles, although an hundred miles distant, protect it against men
of war from the Mediterranean. The last of these straits, at the points
on which the old castles stand, are only about 1300 yards wide; and
although they expand immediately, yet for the course of forty miles a
ship can seldom be out of gunshot from one or other side.
A strong north wind blows all summer, which renders it impossible for
vessels to force their way up at that season, and the current at all
times sets so strong, that even with a fair wind, they must be exposed
for several hours to a very hot fire. The castles are close to the
water's edge; they have each two tier of guns, many of the lower carry
balls of eighteen inches diameter, and when an enemy is in force in the
Mediterranean, the whole extent of the Dardanelles is lined with
batteries.
The town properly called Constantinople, is a kind of Peninsula, in the
form of a triangle, one side of which is washed by the sea of Marmora,
at the north end of which it stands; the second by the harbour, on which
the canal opens; this side fronts the north, and, except the Seraglio,
which forms the east salient angle, is entirely open. There is nothing
towards the sea of Marmora, except a dead wall, the Turks trusting to
the defences I have already mentioned, against an attack by sea. Neither
do they seem more apprehensive on the third, or land side, for the
ancient triple wall, which, by running across from the bottom of the
harbour to the sea of Marmora, cuts the town from the country, is
falling to decay. I found it to be near five miles in length, and the
only part of it kept in repair, is the Castle of the Seven Towers, now
converted into a state prison. English artillery would lay both it and
the Seraglio in ashes in half an hour.
Besides the triangle I have just described, the populous towns of Pera,
Galata, and Tophana, which run into each other on the opposite side of
the harbour, are also included in what is commonly called
Constantinople. Galata contains the dockyard and naval arsenal; Tophana
the ordnance and foundry, and Pera is the residence of the Foreign
Ministers. No part of these three towns have even a mud wall to defend
them.
The Janizaries form the chief part of the standing army. They are still
highly respected both by the court and the people, but have lost so much
of their former consequence, that at the commencement of the present
war, the Grand Vizir broke a whole chamber, or regiment of them, for
showing a spirit of discontent. A severity, which though just, none of
his predecessors, nor even the Sultans themselves dared ever attempt.
Abdoul Hamet, the Grand Signior, is upwards of sixty years old; but he
possesses an engaging, benevolent countenance; and I like him the more
from his attention to his wives; for although he may have as many of the
most beautiful women as he pleases, yet he has attached himself to one.
His happy favorite is now pregnant for the fourth time, and such is the
attention paid her, that the vessels in the harbour are obliged to
suspend the regular method of carrying on duty, and are not permitted to
fire a musket, nor to strike the bell, nor even to give the word of
command in a loud voice. By which you will perceive, that the invisible
chains of the fair are as powerful in Turkey as in our blessed island;
and that the rude Turk, and the generous Englishman, though different in
manners, are alike sensible of the respect due to gentleness and beauty.
LETTER XXIX.
TO CAPTAIN SMITH.
Constantinople, Jan. 24th, 1789.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
The Porte having given a decisive answer, relative to the frigates which
were brought to Constantinople to be sold, we shall sail for Gibraltar
immediately. We have been detained here much longer than we expected,
but the hospitality and munificence of Sir Robert Ainslie, have amply
compensated this delay; and it is with the greatest regret, that I see
myself on the eve of leaving his society, and of quitting a place where
the hearts of every one seem to wish to detain us.
Nothing could exceed the animation of the Turks at the moment of our
arrival at this capital. The King of Sweden had relieved the Porte from
a great part of the force of the Russians, and the accounts of the
glorious victories of Meadia and Caransebes, obtained over the Emperor,
were confirmed and increased by the hundreds of prisoners who were daily
brought in.
So complete a panic pervaded the Imperial troops, that on an alarm of
the enemy's approach, the heavy baggage, which had been sent on towards
Temeswar, was immediately abandoned, and a great part of it pillaged,
and carried off by a corps of Partisans.
But at this moment, when victory, with extended wings, was following the
Ottoman arms, and when each day brought them fresh advantages, the Grand
Vizir suddenly halted, and then turned to the left. It was still hoped,
however, that his operations would continue offensive; but probably
reflecting on the danger of not finding subsistance for so immense an
army, during the approaching winter, should he pursue the Emperor into
the heart of his country, and that the Imperial armies from Transylvania
and Moldavia might come down and cut him off from the Danube, he had
determined not to lose sight of the banks of that river; and that,
instead of pursuing the Emperor at random, wherever he chose to lead
him, he had resolved to secure the conquests he had made, which would
enable him to winter with safety in the enemy's country.
This opinion was, for some time, strengthened by his subsequent
movements; he left a strong garrison in Meadia, and his march was
directed through the Bannat of Temeswar, and pointed immediately at
Semlin, which, had he taken, would have secured the left flank of the
chain of posts, by which it was supposed he would have inclosed the
Bannat. All his motions most strongly indicated an attempt upon that
fortress, and, as there was no doubt of his succeeding, the inhabitants
fled with all their effects. A corps of 3000 men, who were encamped
under its walls, to watch the motions of the garrison of Belgrade,
retired on his approach. He had been unopposed for six weeks, and his
conduct at Illova had given the Emperor so formidable an impression of
his vigour and abilities, that his Majesty had gone in person as far as
Arad, to put that place in a state of defence.
But now that the Grand Vizir was in sight of Semlin, instead of taking
this town, and afterwards wintering in the Bannat, or in the district
the Imperialists occupied in the spring, he blasted the hopes of his
friends, by withdrawing his whole force out of the Austrian
territories[7].
I am exceedingly sorry that I am not sufficiently informed to produce
those satisfactory reasons which so sublime a genius, and so brave a
man, must doubtless possess for this retrograde motion in the hour of
victory. Neither can I take upon me to advance, that the success of
Marshal Laudohn formed any part of them.
This great General having taken Dubitza on the 26th of August, marched
for Novi on the 29th. The Bashaw of Travenick retarded for some time his
operations against that fortress, but having too courageously attempted
to storm the Austrian trenches, he was repulsed with a heavy loss. The
Marshal now pursued the siege with vigour, and on the 21st of September,
a practicable breach being made, he advanced to the assault, but was now
in his turn repulsed, and the Vienna Gazette acknowledges, that on this
occasion he lost 284 men. On the 3d of October he renewed the attack,
and the garrison being by this time reduced to 600 men, were made
prisoners.
Footnote 7:
For which he was afterwards beheaded; but as both his resolution and
abilities were unquestionably great, his fate was deservedly lamented
by all intelligent people.
---
From Novi Marshal Laudohn advanced to Gradiska; but the overflowing of
the Save obliged him to suspend his operations, and to retire into
winter quarters.
The campaign is now closed, except in the environs of Oczakow, where the
Russian fleet being froze in, the army is obliged to remain for their
defence, notwithstanding that immense numbers of their men are every day
carried off by the severity of the weather, and the scarcity and badness
of provisions.
In the mean while the Captain Bashaw has brought his fleet here to
refit, and will resume the blockade of the Russians as soon as the ice
breaks. The success of this Admiral has not been so great as his force,
abilities, and resolution gave the Porte reason to expect; but they are
satisfied, that by engaging almost the whole attention of the Russians,
he paved the way for the success of the Grand Vizir, whose victories
have more than compensated in the eyes of the Turks, for the
disappointment of the Captain Bashaw.
The squadron from the southward have brought in three Russian
Privateers, and since there is reason to hope that Oczakow[8] will hold
out, this campaign has, upon the whole, exceeded the most sanguine
expectations of the Turks. I am astonished that they have made it out so
well, for their army is really little better than an animated mob under
the command of a popular leader. I have searched in vain for field-days
or reviews, even among the standing forces. The only thing like military
exercise, that I could ever discover, was now and then two or three men
firing at a mark, or practising themselves in throwing the lance on
horseback.
At present the grand army is elated with victory, and formidable by the
spirit infused by success; but as one or two defeats will destroy that
religious confidence and enthusiastic fury, which, for a time, supply
the want of discipline and skill, the third campaign, I am afraid, will
shake this very capital, unless England and Prussia forbid such a
catastrophe, and by resolute measures, confirm the expectations of the
Porte, and of all those who wish well to the honor and interest of the
Triple Alliance.
Footnote 8:
A magazine having blown up, and made a practicable breach, the
Russians immediately advanced to the assault, and, after sacrificing
four thousand men, carried the town.
---
ADVERTISEMENT.
It was the Author's original intention to publish his work in two
volumes, one of which was to contain the whole of his first voyage to
the Levant, with his return to Italy, describing all the places he
visited previous to his departure from Palermo, whence he set out on his
second voyage to Turkey.
This voyage would have formed the second volume, but finding the time
allowed him on leave of absence insufficient to complete his design, he
has been obliged, for the present, to withhold the latter part of it;
and therefore, to make the first in some degree a complete work in
itself, he has curtailed his journal, and added a brief account of
Constantinople, and of the leading events in the present war between the
Porte and the two Imperial Courts. Convinced that these would never be
so interesting as at the present moment, he could not think of
withholding them from the public till he should have leisure to publish
his second volume. And indeed, even in the time since his letters on
these important transactions were written, the scene, as he foresaw, is
entirely changed, and the Russian and Austrian armies are now advancing
towards Constantinople with such success, that the safety of that
capital seems no longer to depend upon the Turks, but on those Powers,
without whose countenance, it is to be supposed, the Porte would never
have engaged against such superior enemies.
The Author during his first voyage, treated but slightly on the manners
and government of the Turks. The customs of those people being totally
different from any other nation he had visited, his respect for the
public would not permit him to offer a particular description on so
slight an acquaintance, especially as he was to return to Turkey
immediately, and to pass near a twelvemonth in that country.
He therefore desires to have himself considered as being now on the
point of leaving Palermo, on his return to the Archipelago; and if the
indulgence of the Public should give him sufficient encouragement to
appear before them once more, he will endeavour to gratify their
curiosity, by publishing the second part of his Tour as soon as his
military duty will permit him.
If the Author has not been so copious as he might on Italy and Sicily,
it is out of deference to Mr. Moore and Mr. Brydone, whose elegant works
have been so universally read and admired, that but little can now be
said on the same subject.
The very liberal and distinguished patronage with which the Author has
been honored, merits his warmest acknowledgment; and he has only to add,
that it now rests with the public, either to encourage him to appear
before them again, or by their silence, to command his.
FINIS.
LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.
A.
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