CHAPTER XXII. DISEASE IN WEST AFRICA.

Great as is the delay and difficulty placed in the way of the

development of the immense natural resources of West Africa by the

labour problem, there is another cause of delay to this development

greater and more terrible by far--namely, the deadliness of the

climate. "Nothing hinders a man, Miss Kingsley, half so much as

dying," a friend said to me the other day, after nearly putting his

opinion to a practical test. Other parts of the world have more

sensational outbreaks of death from epidemics of yellow fever and

cholera, but there is no other region in the world that can match

West Africa for the steady kill, kill, kill that its malaria works

on the white men who come under its influence.

Malaria you will hear glibly talked of; but what malaria means and

consists of you will find few men ready to attempt to tell you, and

these few by no means of a tale. It is very strange that this

terrible form of disease has not attracted more scientific

investigators, considering the enormous mortality it causes

throughout the tropics and sub-tropics. A few years since, when the

peculiar microbes of everything from measles to miracles were being

"isolated," several bacteriologists isolated the malarial microbe,

only unfortunately they did not all isolate the same one. A resume

of the various claims of these microbes is impossible here, and

whether one of them was the true cause, or whether they all have an

equal claim to this position, is not yet clear; for malaria, as far

as I have seen or read of it seems to be not so much one distinct

form of fever as a group of fevers--a genus, not a species. Many

things point to this being the case; particularly the different

forms so called malarial poisoning takes in different localities.

This subject may be also subdivided and complicated by going into

the controversy as to whether yellow fever is endemic on the West

Coast or not. That it has occurred there from time to time there

can be no question: at Fernando Po in 1862 and 1866, in Senegal

pretty frequently; and at least one epidemic at Bonny was true

yellow fever. But in the case of each of these outbreaks it is said

to have been imported from South America, into Fernando Po, by ships

from Havana, and into Bonny by a ship which had on her previous run

been down the South American ports with a cargo of mules. The

litter belonging to this mule cargo was not cleared out of her until

she got into Bonny, when it was thrown overside into the river, and

then the yellow fever broke out. But, on the other hand, South

America taxes West Africa--the Guinea Coast--with having first sent

out yellow fever in the cargoes of slaves. This certainly is a

strange statement, because the African native rarely has malarial

fever severely--he has it, and you are often informed So-and-so has

got yellow fever, but he does not often die of it, merely is truly

wretched and sick for a day or so, and then recovers. {516}

Regarding the haematuria there is also controversy. A very

experienced and excellent authority doubts whether this is entirely

a malarial fever, or whether it is not, in some cases at any rate,

brought on by over-doses of quinine, and Dr. Plehn asserts, and his

assertions are heavily backed up by his great success in treating

this fever, that quinine has a very bad influence when the

characteristic symptoms have declared themselves, and that it should

not be given. I hesitate to advise this, because I fear to induce

any one to abandon quinine, which is the great weapon against

malaria, and not from any want of faith in Dr. Plehn, for he has

studied malarial fevers in Cameroon with the greatest energy and

devotion, bringing to bear on the subject a sound German mind

trained in a German way, and than this, for such subjects, no better

thing exists. His brother, also a doctor, was stationed in Cameroon

before him, and is now in the German East African possessions,

similarly working hard, and when these two shall publish the result

of their conjoint investigations, we shall have the most important

contribution to our knowledge of malaria that has ever appeared. It

is impossible to over-rate the importance of such work as this to

West Africa, for the man who will make West Africa pay will be the

scientific man who gives us something more powerful against malaria

than quinine. It is too much to hope that medical men out at work

on the Coast, doctoring day and night, and not only obliged to

doctor, but to nurse their white patients, with the balance of their

time taken up by giving bills of health to steamers, wrestling with

the varied and awful sanitary problems presented by the native town,

etc., can have sufficient time or life left in them to carry on

series of experiments and of cultures; but they can and do supply to

the man in the laboratory at home grand material for him to carry

the thing through; meanwhile we wait for that man and do the best we

can.

The net results of laboratory investigation, according to the French

doctors, is that the mycetozoic malarial bacillus, the microbe of

paludism, is amoeboid in its movements, acting on the red

corpuscles, leaving nothing of them but the dark pigment found in

the skin and organs of malarial subjects. {517} The German doctors

make a practice of making microscopic examinations of the blood of a

patient, saying that the microbes appear at the commencement of an

attack of fever, increase in quantity as the fever increases, and

decrease as it decreases, and from these investigations they are

able to judge fairly accurately how many remissions may be expected;

in fact to judge of the severity of the case which, taken with the

knowledge that quinine only affects malarial microbes at a certain

stage of their existence, is helpful in treatment.

There is, I may remark, a very peculiar point regarding haematuric

disease, the most deadly form of West Coast fever. This disease, so

far as we know, has always been present on the South-West Coast, at

Loando, the Lower Congo and Gaboon, but it is said not to have

appeared in the Rivers until 1881, and then to have spread along the

West Coast. My learned friend, Dr. Plehn, doubts this, and says

people were less observant in those days, but the symptoms of this

fever are so distinct, that I must think it also totally impossible

for it not to have been differentiated from the usual remittent or

intermittent by the old West Coasters if it had occurred there in

former times with anything like the frequency it does now; but we

will leave these theoretical and technical considerations and turn

to the practical side of the question.

You will always find lots of people ready to give advice on fever,

particularly how to avoid getting it, and you will find the most

dogmatic of these are people who have been singularly unlucky in the

matter, or people who know nothing of local conditions. These

latter are the most trying of all to deal with. They tell you,

truly enough no doubt, that the malaria is in the air, in the

exhalations from the ground, which are greatest about sunrise and

sunset, and in the drinking water, and that you must avoid chill,

excessive mental and bodily exertion, that you must never get

anxious, or excited, or lose your temper. Now there is only one--

the drinking water--of this list that you can avoid, for, owing to

the great variety and rapid growth of bacteria encouraged by the

tropical temperature, and the aqueous saturation of the atmosphere

from the heavy rainfall, and the great extent of swamp, etc., it is

practically impossible to destroy them in the air to a satisfactory

extent. I was presented by scientific friends, when I first went to

the West Coast, with two devices supposed to do this. One was a

lamp which you burnt some chemical in; it certainly made a smell

that nothing could live with--but then I am not nothing, and there

are enough smells on the Coast now. I gave it up after the first

half-hour. The other device was a muzzle, a respirator, I should

say. Well! all I have got to say about that is that you need be a

better-looking person than I am to wear a thing like that without

causing panic in a district. Then orders to avoid the night air are

still more difficult to obey--may I ask how you are to do without

air from 6.30 P.M. to 6.30 A.M.? or what other air there is but

night air, heavy with malarious exhalations, available then?

The drinking water you have a better chance with, as I will

presently state; chill you cannot avoid. When you are at work on

the Coast, even with the greatest care, the sudden fall of

temperature that occurs after a tornado coming at the end of a

stewing-hot day, is sure to tell on any one, and as for the orders

regarding temper neither the natives, nor the country, nor the

trade, help you in the least. But still you must remember that

although it is impossible to fully carry out these orders, you can

do a good deal towards doing so, and preventive measures are the

great thing, for it is better to escape fever altogether, or to get

off with a light touch of it, than to make a sensational recovery

from Yellow Jack himself.

There is little doubt that a certain make of man has the best chance

of surviving the Coast climate--an energetic, spare, nervous but

light-hearted creature, capable of enjoying whatever there may be to

enjoy, and incapable of dwelling on discomforts or worries. It is

quite possible for a person of this sort to live, and work hard on

the Coast for a considerable period, possibly with better health

than he would have in England. The full-blooded, corpulent and

vigorous should avoid West Africa like the plague. One after

another, men and women, who looked, as the saying goes, as if you

could take a lease of their lives, I have seen come out and die, and

it gives one a sense of horror when they arrive at your West Coast

station, for you feel a sort of accessory before the fact to murder,

but what can you do except get yourself laughed at as a croaker, and

attend the funeral?

The best ways of avoiding the danger of the night air are--to have

your evening meal about 6.30 or 7,--8 is too late; sleep under a

mosquito curtain whether there are mosquitoes in your district or

not, and have a meal before starting out in the morning, a good hot

cup of tea or coffee and bread and butter, if you can get it, if

not, something left from last night's supper or even aguma.

Regarding meals, of course we come to the vexed question of

stimulants--all the evidence is in favour of alcohol, of a proper

sort, taken at proper times, and in proper quantities, being

extremely valuable. Take the case of the missionaries, who are

almost all teetotalers, they are young men and women who have to

pass a medical examination before coming out, and whose lives on the

Coast are far easier than those of other classes of white men, yet

the mortality among them is far heavier than in any other class.

Mr. Stanley says that wine is the best form of stimulant, but that

it should not be taken before the evening meal. Certainly on the

South-West Coast, where a heavy, but sound, red wine imported from

Portugal is the common drink, the mortality is less than on the West

Coast. Beer has had what one might call a thorough trial in

Cameroon since the German occupation and is held by authorities to

be the cause in part of the number of cases of haematuric fever in

that river being greater than in other districts. But this subject

requires scientific comparative observation on various parts of the

Coast, for Cameroons is at the beginning of the South-West Coast,

whereon the percentage of cases of haematuric to those of

intermittent and remittent fevers is far higher than on the West

Coast.

A comparative study of the diseases of the western division of the

continent would, I should say, repay a scientific doctor, if he

survived. The material he would have to deal with would be

enormous, and in addition to the history of haematuric he would be

confronted with the problem of the form of fever which seems to be a

recent addition to West African afflictions, the so-called typhoid

malaria, which of late years has come into the Rivers, and

apparently come to stay. This fever is, I may remark, practically

unknown at present in the South-West Coast regions where the "sun

for garbage" plan is adhered to. At present the treatment of all

white man's diseases on the Coast practically consists in the

treatment of malaria, because whatever disease a person gets hold of

takes on a malarial type which masks its true nature. Why, I knew a

gentleman who had as fine an attack of the smallpox as any one would

not wish to have, and who for days behaved as if he had remittent,

and then burst out into the characteristic eruption; and only got

all his earthly possessions burnt, and no end of carbolic acid

dressings for his pains.

I do not suppose this does much harm, as the malaria is the main

thing that wants curing; unless Dr. Plehn is right and quinine is

bad in haematuria. His success in dealing with this fever seems to

support his opinion; and the French doctors on the Coast, who dose

it heavily with quinine, have certainly a very heavy percentage of

mortality among their patients with the haematuric, although in the

other forms of malarial fever they very rarely lose a patient.

But to return to those preventive measures, and having done what we

can with the air, we will turn our attention to the drinking water,

for in addition to malarial microbes the drinking and washing water

of West Africa is liable to contain dermazoic and entozoic

organisms, and if you don't take care you will get from it into your

anatomy Tinea versicolor, Tinea decalvans, Tinea circinata, Tinea

sycosis, Tinea favosa, or some other member of that wretched family,

let alone being nearly certain to import Trichocephalus dispar,

Ascaris lumbricoides, Oxyuris vermicularis, and eight varieties of

nematodes, each of them with an awful name of its own, and

unpleasant consequences to you, and, lastly, a peculiar abomination,

a Filaria. This is not, what its euphonious name may lead you to

suppose, a fern, but it is a worm which gets into the white of the

eye and leads there a lively existence, causing distressing itching,

throbbing and pricking sensations, not affecting the sight until it

happens to set up inflammation. I have seen the eyes of natives

simply swarming with these Filariae. A curious thing about the

disease is that it usually commences in one eye, and when that

becomes over-populated an emigration society sets out for the other

eye, travelling thither under the skin of the bridge of the nose,

looking while in transit like the bridge of a pair of spectacles. A

similar, but not identical, worm is fairly common on the Ogowe, and

is liable to get under the epidermis of any part of the body. Like

the one affecting the eye it is very active in its movements,

passing rapidly about under the skin and producing terrible pricking

and itching, but very trifling inflammation in those cases which I

have seen. The treatment consists of getting the thing out, and the

thing to be careful of is to get it out whole, for if any part of it

is left in, suppuration sets in, so even if you are personally

convinced you have got it out successfully it is just as well to

wash out the wound with carbolic or Condy's fluid. The most

frequent sufferers from these Filariae are the natives, but white

people do get them.

Do not confuse this Filaria with the Guinea worm, Filaria

medinensis, which runs up to ten and twelve feet in length, and

whose habits are different. It is more sedentary, but it is in the

drinking water inside small crustacea (cyclops). It appears

commonly in its human host's leg, and rapidly grows, curled round

and round like a watch-spring, showing raised under the skin. The

native treatment of this pest is very cautiously to open the skin

over the head of the worm and secure it between a little cleft bit

of bamboo and then gradually wind the rest of the affair out. Only

a small portion can be wound out at a time, as the wound is very

liable to inflame, and should the worm break, it is certain to

inflame badly, and a terrible wound will result. You cannot wind it

out by the tail because you are then, so to speak, turning its fur

the wrong way, and it catches in the wound.

I should, I may remark, strongly advise any one who likes to start

early on a canoe journey to see that no native member of the party

has a Filaria medinensis on hand; for winding it up is always

reserved for a morning job and as many other jobs are similarly

reserved it makes for delay.

I know, my friends, that you one and all say that the drinking water

at your particular place is of singular beauty and purity, and that

you always tell the boys to filter it; but I am convinced that that

water is no more to be trusted than the boys, and I am lost in

amazement at people of your intelligence trusting the trio of water,

boys, and filter, in the way you do. One favourite haunt of mine

gets its drinking water from a cemented hole in the back yard into

which drains a very strong-smelling black little swamp, which is

surrounded by a ridge of sandy ground, on which are situated several

groups of native houses, whose inhabitants enhance their fortunes

and their drainage by taking in washing. At Fernando Po the other

day I was assured as usual that the water was perfection, "beautiful

spring coming down from the mountain," etc. In the course of the

afternoon affairs took me up the mountain to Basile, for the first

part of the way along the course of the said stream. The first

objects of interest I observed in the drinking-water supply were

four natives washing themselves and their clothes; the next was the

bloated body of a dead goat reposing in a pellucid pool. The path

then left the course of the stream, but on arriving in the region of

its source I found an interesting little colony of Spanish families

which had been imported out whole, children and all, by the

Government. They had a nice, neat little cemetery attached, which

his excellency the doctor told me was "stocked mostly with children,

who were always dying off from worms." Good, so far, for the

drinking water! and as to what that beautiful stream was soaking up

when it was round corners--I did not see it, so I do not know--but I

will be bound it was some abomination or another. But it's no use

talking, it's the same all along, Sierra Leone, Grain Coast, Ivory

Coast, Gold Coast, Lagos, Rivers, Cameroon, Congo Francais, Kacongo,

Congo Belge, and Angola. When you ask your white friends how they

can be so reckless about the water, which, as they know, is a

decoction of the malarious earth, exposed night and day to the

malarious air, they all up and say they are not; they have "got an

awfully good filter, and they tell the boys," etc., and that they

themselves often put wine or spirit in the water to kill the

microbes. Vanity, vanity! At each and every place I know, "men

have died and worms have eaten them." The safest way of dealing

with water I know is to boil it hard for ten minutes at least, and

then instantly pour it into a jar with a narrow neck, which plug up

with a wad of fresh cotton-wool--not a cork; and should you object

to the flat taste of boiled water, plunge into it a bit of red-hot

iron, which will make it more agreeable in taste. BEFORE boiling

the water you can carefully filter it if you like. A good filter is

a very fine thing for clearing drinking water of hippopotami,

crocodiles, water snakes, catfish, etc., and I daresay it will stop

back sixty per cent. of the live or dead African natives that may be

in it; but if you think it is going to stop back the microbe of

marsh fever--my good sir, you are mistaken. And remember that you

must give up cold water, boiled or unboiled, altogether; for if you

take the boiled or filtered water and put it into one of those

water-coolers, and leave it hanging exposed to night air or day on

the verandah, you might just as well save yourself the trouble of

boiling it at all.

Next in danger to the diseases come the remedies for them. Let the

new-comer remember, in dealing with quinine, calomel, arsenic, and

spirits, that they are not castor sugar nor he a glass bottle, but

let him use them all--the two first fairly frequently--not waiting

for an attack of fever and then ladling them into himself with a

spoon. The third, arsenic--a drug much thought of by the French,

who hold that if you establish an arsenic cachexia you do not get a

malarial one--should not be taken except under a doctor's orders.

Spirit is undoubtedly extremely valuable when, from causes beyond

your control, you have got a chill. Remember always your life hangs

on quinine, and that it is most important to keep the system

sensitive to it, which you do not do if you keep on pouring in heavy

doses of it for nothing and you make yourself deaf into the bargain.

I have known people take sixty grains of quinine in a day for a

bilious attack and turn it into a disease they only got through by

the skin of their teeth; but the prophylactic action of quinine is

its great one, as it only has power over malarial microbes at a

certain state of their development,--the fully matured microbe it

does not affect to any great degree--and therefore by taking it when

in a malarious district, say, in a dose of five grams a day, you

keep down the malaria which you are bound, even with every care, to

get into your system. When you have got very chilled or over-tired,

take an extra five grains with a little wine or spirit at any time,

and when you know, by reason of aching head and limbs and a

sensation of a stream of cold water down your back and an awful

temper, that you are in for a fever, send for a doctor if you can.

If, as generally happens, there is no doctor near to send for, take

a compound calomel and colocynth pill, fifteen grains of quinine and

a grain of opium, and go to bed wrapped up in the best blanket

available. When safely there take lashings of hot tea or, what is

better, a hot drink made from fresh lime-juice, strong and without

sugar--fresh limes are almost always to be had--if not, bottled

lime-juice does well. Then, in the hot stage, don't go fanning

about, nor in the perspiring stage, for if you get a chill then you

may turn a mild dose of fever into a fatal one. If, however, you

keep conscientiously rolled in your blanket until the perspiring

stage is well over, and stay in bed till the next morning, the

chances are you will be all right, though a little shaky about the

legs. You should continue the quinine, taking it in five-grain

doses, up to fifteen to twenty grains a day for a week after any

attack of fever, but you must omit the opium pill. The great thing

in West Africa is to keep up your health to a good level, that will

enable you to resist fever, and it is exceedingly difficult for most

people to do this, because of the difficulty of getting exercise and

good food. But do what you may it is almost certain you will get

fever during a residence of more than six months on the Coast, and

the chances are two to one on the Gold Coast that you will die of

it. But, without precautions, you will probably have it within a

fortnight of first landing, and your chances of surviving are almost

nil. With precautions, in the Rivers and on the S.W. Coast your

touch of fever may be a thing inferior in danger and discomfort to a

bad cold in England.

Yet remember, before you elect to cast your lot in with the West

Coasters, that 85 per cent. of them die of fever or return home with

their health permanently wrecked. Also remember that there is no

getting acclimatised to the Coast. There are, it is true, a few men

out there who, although they have been resident in West Africa for

years, have never had fever, but you can count them up on the

fingers of one hand. There is another class who have been out for

twelve months at a time, and have not had a touch of fever; these

you want the fingers of your two hands to count, but no more. By

far the largest class is the third, which is made up of those who

have a slight dose of fever once a fortnight, and some day,

apparently for no extra reason, get a heavy dose and die of it. A

very considerable class is the fourth--those who die within a

fortnight to a month of going ashore.

The fate of a man depends solely on his power of resisting the so-

called malaria, not in his system becoming inured to it. The first

class of men that I have cited have some unknown element in their

constitutions that renders them immune. With the second class the

power of resistance is great, and can be renewed from time to time

by a spell home in a European climate. In the third class the state

is that of cumulative poisoning; in the fourth of acute poisoning.

Let the new-comer who goes to the Coast take the most cheerful view

of these statements and let him regard himself as preordained to be

one of the two most favoured classes. Let him take every care short

of getting frightened, which is as deadly as taking no care at all,

and he may--I sincerely hope he will--survive; for a man who has got

the grit in him to go and fight in West Africa for those things

worth fighting for--duty, honour and gold--is a man whose death is a

dead loss to his country.

The cargoes from West Africa truly may "wives and mithers maist

despairing ca' them lives o' men." Yet grievous as is the price

England pays for her West African possessions, to us who know the

men who risk their lives and die for them, England gets a good

equivalent value for it; for she is the greatest manufacturing

country in the world, and as such requires markets. Nowadays she

requires them more than new colonies. A colony drains annually

thousands of the most enterprising and energetic of her children

from her, leaving behind them their aged and incapable relations.

Moreover, a colony gradually becomes a rival manufacturing centre to

the mother country, whereas West Africa will remain for hundreds of

years a region that will supply the manufacturer with his raw

material, and take in exchange for it his manufactured articles,

giving him a good margin of profit. And the holding of our West

African markets drains annually a few score of men only--only too

often for ever--but the trade they carry on and develop there--a

trade, according to Sir George Baden-Powell, of the annual value of

nine millions sterling--enables thousands of men, women and children

to remain safely in England, in comfort and pleasure, owing to the

wages and profits arising from the manufacture and export of the

articles used in that trade.

So I trust that those at home in England will give all honour to the

men still working in West Africa, or rotting in the weed-grown,

snake-infested cemeteries and the forest swamps--men whose battles

have been fought out on lonely beaches far away from home and

friends and often from another white man's help, sometimes with

savages, but more often with a more deadly foe, with none of the

anodyne to death and danger given by the companionship of hundreds

of fellow soldiers in a fight with a foe you can see, but with a foe

you can see only incarnate in the dreams of your delirium, which

runs as a poison in burning veins and aching brain--the dread West

Coast fever. And may England never again dream of forfeiting, or

playing with, the conquests won for her by those heroes of commerce,

the West Coast traders; for of them, as well as of such men as Sir

Gerald Portal, truly it may be said--of such is the Kingdom of

England.

APPENDIX. THE INVENTION OF THE CLOTH LOOM.

This story is taken down from an Eboe, but practically the same

story can be found among all the cloth-making tribes in West Africa.

In the old times there was a man who was a great hunter; but he had

a bad wife, and when he made medicine to put on his spear, she made

medicine against his spear, but he knew nothing of this thing and

went out after bush cow.

By and by he found a big bush cow, and threw his spear at it, but

the bush cow came on, and drove its horns through his thigh, so the

man crept home, and lay in his house very sick, and the witch doctor

found out which of his wives had witched the spear, and they killed

her, and for many days the man could not go out hunting. But he was

a great hunter, and his liver grew hot in him for the bush, so he

dragged himself to the bush, and lay there every day. One day, as

he lay, he saw a big spider making a net on a bush and he watched

him. By and by he saw how the spider caught his game, and that the

spider was a great hunter, and the man said "If I had hunted as this

spider hunts, if I had made a trap like that and put it in the bush

and then gone aside and let the game get into it and weary itself to

death quickly,--quicker and safer than they do in pit-falls--that

bush cow would not have gored me." And so after a time he tried to

make a net like the spider's, out of bush rope, and he did this

thing and put his net into the forest, and caught bush deer

(gazelles) and earthpig (pangolins) and porcupines, and he made more

nets, and every net he made was better, and he grew well, and became

a greater hunter than before. One day he made a very fine net, and

his wife said "This is a cloth, it is better than our cloth (bark

cloth) because when the rain gets to it, it does not shrivel. Make

me a cloth like this and then I will beat it with the mallet and

wear it." And the man tried to do this thing, but he could not get

it a good shape and he said, "Yet the spider gets a shape in his

cloth. I will go and ask him again this thing." And he went to the

spider, and took him another offering, and said: "Oh, my lord,

teach me more things." And he sat and watched him for many days.

By and by he saw more (his eyes were opened) and he saw the spider

made his net on sticks, and so he went home and got fine bush rope

that he had collected, and taken there, to make his game nets with,

and he brought them to the bush near the spider, and fixing the

strings on to the bush he made a new net and he got shape into it,

and he made more nets this way, and every net he made was better.

And his wife was pleased and gave him sons, and by and by the man

saw that he did not want all the sticks of a bush to make his net

on, only some of them; and so he took these home and put them up in

his house, and made his nets there, and after a time his wife said:

"Why do you make the stuff for me with that bush rope? Why do you

not make it with something finer?" And he went into the bush and

took offerings to the spider and said: "Oh, my lord, teach me more

things!" And he sat and watched the spider, but the spider only

went on making stuff out of his belly. And the man said: "Oh, my

lord, you pass me. I cannot do this thing." And as he went home he

thought and saw that there are trees, and there are bush ropes,

thick bush rope and thin bush rope, and then there is grass which

was thinner still, and he took the grass, and tried to make a net

with it, and did this thing and made more nets and every net he made

was better. And his wife was pleased and said "This is good cloth."

And the man lived to be very old and was a great chief and a great

hunter. For it is good for a man to be a great hunter, and it is

good for a man to please women. This is the origin of the cloth

loom.

It was in the old time, and men have got now thread on spools from

the white man, for the white man is a great spider; but this is how

the black man learnt to make cloth.

NOTES.

{14} Sierra Leone has been known since the voyage of Hanno of

Carthage in the sixth century B.C., but it has not got into general

literature to any great extent since Pliny. The only later classic

who has noticed it is Milton, who in a very suitable portion of

Paradise Lost says of Notus and Afer, "black with thunderous clouds

from Sierra Lona." Our occupation of it dates from 1787.

{15} Lagos also likes to bear this flattering appellation, and has

now-a-days more right to the title.

{28} Along the Coast, and in other parts of Africa, the coarser,

flat-sided kinds of banana are usually called plantains, the name

banana being reserved for the finer sorts, such as the little

"silver banana."

{37} From Point Limbok, the seaward extremity of Cameroons Mountain,

to Cape Horatio, the most eastern extremity of Fernando Po, the

soundings are, from the continent, 13, 17, 20, 23, 27, 29, 30, 34

fathoms; close on to the island, 35 and 29 fathoms.

{44} I am informed that the allowance made to these priests exceeds

by some pounds the revenues Spain obtains from the Island. In

Spanish possessions alone is a supporting allowance made to

missionaries though in all the other colonies they obtain a

government grant.

{47} Ten Years' Wanderings among the Ethiopians, T. J. Hutchinson.

{48a} There is difference of opinion among authorities as to whether

Fernando Po was discovered by Fernando Po or by Lopez Gonsalves.

{48b} From April 1777 till the end of 1782, 370 men out of the 547

died of fever.

{51} Porto is the Bubi name for black men who are not Bubis, these

were in old days Portuguese slaves, "Porto" being evidently a

corruption of "Portuguese," but it is used alike by the Bubi to

designate Sierra Leonian and Accras, in fact, all the outer

barbarian blacks. The name for white men, Mandara, used by the

Bubis, has a sort of resemblance to the Effik name for whites,

Makara, i.e., the ruling one, but I do not know whether these two

words have any connection.

{55} I am glad to find that my own observations on the drink

question entirely agree with those of Dr. Oscar Baumann, because he

is an unprejudiced scientific observer, who has had great experience

both in the Congo and Cameroon regions before he came to Fernando

Po. In support of my statement I may quote his own words: --"Die

Bube trinken namlich sehr gerne Rum; Gin verschmahen sie

vollstandig, aber ausser Tabak und Salz gehort Rum zu den

gesuchtesten europaischen Artikeln fur sie. Wie bekannt hat sich in

Europa ein heftiges Geschrei gegen die Vergiftung der Neger durch

Alcohol erhoben. Wenn dasselbe schon fur die meisten Stamme

Westafrikas der Berechtigung fast vollstandig entbehrt und in die

Categorie verweisen worden muss die man mit dem nicht sehr schonen

aber treffenden Ausdrucke 'Humanitatsduselei' bezeichnet, so ist es

den Bube gegenuber wohl mehr als zwecklos. Es mag ja vorkommen dass

ein Bube wenn er sein Palmol verkauft hat, sich ein oder zweimal im

Jahre mit Rum ein Rauschlein antrinkt. Deshalb aber gleich von

Alkohol-Vergiftung zu sprechen ware mindestens lacherlich. Ich bin

uberzeugt dass mancher jener Herren die in Wort und Schrift so

heftig gegen die Alkolismus der Neger zetern in ihren Studenten-

jahren allein mehr geistige Getranke genossen haben als zehn Bube

wahrend ihres ganzen Lebens. Der Handelsrum welcher wie ich mich

ofters uberzeugt zwar recht verwassert aber keineswegs abstossend

schlecht schmeckt, ist den Bube gewohnlich nur eine Delikatesse

welche mit Andacht schluckweise genossen wird. Wenn ein Arbeiter

bei uns einen Schluck Branntwein oder ein Glas Bier geniesst um sich

zu starken, so findet das Jeder in der Ordnung; der Bube jedoch,

welcher splitternackt tagelang in feuchten Bergwaldern umher

klettern muss, soll beliebe nichts als Wasser trinken!" Eine

Africanische Tropen. insel Fernando Poo, Dr. Oscar Baumann, Edward

Holzer, Wien, 1888.

{56} "Beitrage zur Kenntniss der Bubisprache auf Fernando Poo," O.

Baumann, Zeitschrift fur afrikanische Sprachen. Berlin, 1888.

{61} Ten Years' Wanderings among the Ethiopians. T. J. Hutchinson.

{80} The Sierra del Cristal and the Pallaballa range are, by some

geographers, held to be identical; but I have reason to doubt this,

for the specimens of rock brought home by me have been identified by

the Geological Survey, those of the Pallaballa range as mica schist

and quartz; those of the Sierra del Cristal as "probably schistose

grit, but not definitely determinable by inspection," and "quartz

rock." The quantity of mica in the sands of the Ogowe, I think,

come into it from its affluents from the Congo region because you do

not get these mica sands in rivers which are entirely from the

Sierra del Cristal, such as the Muni. The Rumby and Omon ranges are

probably identical with the Sierra del Cristal, for in them as in

the Sierra you do not get the glistening dove-coloured rock with a

sparse vegetation growing on it, as you do in the Pallaballa region.

{96} The villages of the Fans and Bakele are built in the form of a

street. When in the forest there are two lines of huts, the one

facing the other, and each end closed by a guard house. When facing

a river there is one line of huts facing the river frontage.

{167} The M'pongwe speaking tribes are the M'pongwe, Orungu, Nkami,

Ajumba, Inlenga and the Igalwa.

{170} These four Ajumba had been engaged, through the

instrumentality of M. Jacot, to accompany me to the Rembwe River.

The Ajumba are one of the noble tribes and are the parent stem of

the M'pongwe; their district is the western side of Lake Ayzingo.

{181} As this river is not mentioned on maps, and as I was the first

white traveller on it, I give my own phonetic spelling; but I expect

it would be spelt by modern geographers "Kakola."

{185} A common African sensation among natives when alarmed,

somewhat akin to our feeling some one walk over our graves.

{189} Since my return I think the French gentleman may have been M.

F. Tenaille d'Estais, who is down on the latest map (French) as

having visited a lake in this region in 1882, which is set down as

Lac Ebouko. He seems to have come from and returned to Lake

Ayzingo--on map Lac Azingo--but on the other hand "Ebouko" was not

known on the lake, Ajumba and Fans alike calling it Ncovi.

{200} Diospyros and Copaifua mopane.

{205} Vipera nasicornis; M'pongwe, Ompenle.

{208} I have no hesitation in saying that the gorilla is the most

horrible wild animal I have seen. I have seen at close quarters

specimens of the most important big game of Central Africa, and,

with the exception of snakes, I have run away from all of them; but

although elephants, leopards, and pythons give you a feeling of

alarm, they do not give that feeling of horrible disgust that an old

gorilla gives on account of its hideousness of appearance.

{223} An European coat or its equivalent value is one of the

constant quantities in an ivory bundle.

{241} Specimen placed in Herbarium at Kew.

{286} It is held by some authorities to come from gru-gru, a

Mandingo word for charm, but I respectfully question whether gru-gru

has not come from ju-ju, the native approximation to the French

joujou.

{295} The proper way to spell this name is booby, i.e. silly, but as

Bubi is the accepted spelling, I bow to authority.

{301} This article has different names in different tribes; thus it

is called a bian among the Fan, a tarwiz, gree-gree, etc., on other

parts of the Coast.

{306} Care must be taken not to confuse with sacrifices

(propitiations of spirits) the killing of men and animals as

offerings to the souls of deceased persons.

{324} Pronounced Tchwee.

{329} Among the Fjort the body cannot be buried until all the

deceased's debts are paid.

{338} In speaking of native ideas I should prefer to use the good

Yorkshire term of "overthrowing" in place of "superstition," but as

the latter is the accepted word for such matters I feel bound to

employ it.

{363} "Tshi-speaking People," Colonel Sir H. B. Ellis.

{439} Since my return to England I have read Sir Richard Burton's

account of his first successful attempt to reach the summit of the

Great Cameroons in 1862. His companions were Herr Mann, the

botanist, and Senor Calvo. Herr Mann claimed to have ascended the

summit a few days before the two others joined him, but Burton seems

to doubt this. The account he himself gives of the summit is:

"Victoria mountain now proved to be a shell of a huge double crater

opening to the south-eastward, where a tremendous torrent of fire

had broken down the weaker wall, the whole interior and its

accessible breach now lay before me plunging down in vertical cliff.

The depth of the bowl may be 360 feet. The total diameter of the

two, which are separated by a rough partition of lava, 1,000 feet. .

. Not a blade of grass, not a thread of moss, breaks the gloom of

this Plutonic pit, which is as black as Erebus, except where the

fire has painted it red or yellow." This ascent was made from the

west face. I got into the "Plutonic pit" through the S.E. break in

its wall, and was said to be the first English person to reach it

from the S.E., and the twenty-eighth ascender, according to my well-

informed German friends.

{455} The African Association now own two steamers. Alexander

Miller Brothers and Co. also charter steamers.

{463} A Naturalist in Mid Africa, 1896.

{465} The accounts given by the various members of the Stanley Emin

Relief Expedition well describe the usual sort of West African

hinterland work, but the forests of the Congo are less relieved by

open park-like country than those of the rivers to the north or

south. Still the Congo, in spite of this disadvantage, has greater

facilities for transport in the way of waterways than is found east

of the Cross or Cameroon.

{468} Export of coffee from the Gold Coast, 1894, given in the

Colonial Report on that year published in 1896, was of the value of

1,265 pounds 3s. 4d.; cocoa, 546 pounds 17s. 4d. The greater part

of this coffee goes to Germany.

Export of coffee from Lagos, given in Colonial Report for 1892,

published in 1893, was of the value of 12 pounds. No figures on

this subject are given in the 1894 report, published in 1896, but I

cite these figures to show the delay in publishing these reports by

the Colonial Office and the difficulty of getting reliable

statistics on West African trade.

{493} "The Development of Dodos." National Review, March, 1896.

{504} Ethnology, p. 266. A. H. Keane, Cambridge, 1896.

{508} Lagos Annual Consular Report (150, p.6), 1894: "There were

only three cases of drunkenness. Considering that in the Island of

Lagos alone the population is over 33,300, this clearly proves that

drunkenness in this part of Africa is uncommon, and that there is

insufficient evidence for the contention which is advanced that the

native is being ruined by what is so often spoken of as the heinous

gin traffic; it is a well-known fact by those in a position best

able to judge by long residence that the inhabitants of this country

have a natural repugnance to intemperance."

{509} Board of Trade Journal, August 1896.

{514} By slavery, I mean the quasi-feudal system you find existing

among the true negroes. I do not mean either the form of domestic

slavery of Egypt, or the system of labour existing in the Congo Free

State; although I am of opinion that the suppression of his export

slave trade to the Americas was a grave mistake. It has been

fraught with untold suffering to the African, which would have been

avoided by altering the slave trade into a coolie system.

{516} Bilious Haemoglobinuric, black water fever.

{517} See also Klebs and Tommasi Crudeli, Arch. f. exp. Path., xi.;

Ceci, ibid., xv.; Tommasi Crudeli, La Malaria de Rome, Paris, 1881;

Nuovi Studj sulla Natura della Malaria, Rome, 1881; "Malaria and the

Ancient Drainage of the Roman Hills," Practitioner, ii., 1881;

Instituzioni de anat. Path., vol. i., Turin, 1882; Marchiafava e

Cuboni, Nuovi Studj sulla Natura della Malaria, Acad. dei Lincei,

Jan. 2, 1881; Marchand, Virch. Arch., vol. lxxxviii.; Laveran,

Nature parasitaire des Accidents d'Impaludisme, Paris, 1881;

Richard, Comptes Rendus, 1881; Steinberg, Rep. Nat. Board of Health

(U.S.), 1881. Malaria-krankheiten, K. Schwalbe; Berlin, 1890;

Parkes, On the Issue of a Spirit Ration in the Ashantee Campaign,

Churchill, 1875; Zumsden, Cyclopaedia of Medicine; Ague, Dr. M. D.

O'Connell, Calcutta, 1885; Roman Fever, North, Appendix I. British

Central Africa, Sir H. H. Johnstone.

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