Not long ago, as I walked slowly up Second Avenue, I was met by a

well-dressed man, whose face was shaven and whose trousers were creased

after the manner of Americans. In good English although with a strong

accent, he called my name and brought back to my memory a journey across

the sea, and a start in life together on this side. “And how are you

getting along, Abromowitz?” “Getting along like pulling teeth.” “What do

you mean?” “I am learning to be a dentist with my father-in-law, who

keeps a fine office.” “Where do you live?” “On Rivington Street, and you

must come to see me.” I followed him into a tenement house of the better

class, and found him rather well situated. The home which consisted of

three rooms contained all the hall marks of American civilization.

Carpets of various hues were upon the floor, coloured supplements of

Sunday newspapers lined the walls, a huge plush album contained

pictures of the friends left behind and the new ones made in America,

and “last but not least” on the wall hung crayon portraits of himself

and his bride in their wedding attire. They also possessed a phonograph

on which they played for my special benefit the latest songs current in

the variety theatres. The young husband told me of his increasing

prosperity, and when I questioned him as to why he did not move into a

better locality, he answered, that he had contemplated doing so, even

having rented a flat out towards Harlem; but when he and his wife viewed

the neighbourhood they found that it was peopled by Russian Jews not of

their own native region, so they preferred to remain on Rivington

Street. To them that street is only a suburb of Minsk; here the news

drifts with every incoming steamer, and although it is almost always sad

news, they thus keep in close touch with the weal and woe of their

kindred and acquaintances.

I have made it an especial task to follow as closely as possible the

career of a hundred Russian Jews with whom I have come in touch during

my journeys and investigations. Although they did not pass into my field

of observation together, and represent various ages and conditions, the

following may be of interest: After five years, about forty per cent.

had learned to speak English very well, and about fifteen per cent.

could write it almost faultlessly, while more than sixty per cent. could

read English newspapers. Of this number seventy-eight per cent. had

become wage-earners and only fifteen per cent. of these had not

materially improved their lot in life. Eighteen were citizens of the

United States, three were Social Democrats of an intense type, five

believed that way, but voted the Republican ticket, and the rest were

divided on national questions about evenly between the two dominant

parties. They voted as they pleased in local affairs, although they were

strongly influenced first by Tammany and later by the Hearst movement

which more and more dominates the east side of New York. Ninety-one per

cent. has ceased to be orthodox in their religious practices, although

in thirty-seven per cent. the “spirit was willing but the flesh was

weak.” All the Social Democrats with the exception of one, had entirely

drifted from their ancient moorings and were avowed atheists. As to

their relation to Christianity I asked one of them, “Do you know

anything about American Christians?” and he replied, “How shall I know

anything about Christians on the East side?” Nearly all of them were

saving some money and one of them had grown rich, at least in the

estimation of his neighbours, and he was in the real estate business.

Among all of them there has been an intellectual awakening. As one of

them said: “They have room to think though they have but little

leisure.”

Modifications and almost marvellous transformations had taken place in

the features of many, and these were the men who had thought themselves

most into our life. Whether there was growth in ethical conception it is

hard to say, for one cannot easily reach beyond the exterior in

sociological observations, and depths do not disclose themselves when

one watches people by the hundred. Their business sense certainly has

not grown less keen, and making money is as much an object in life as it

always was. Perchance even a little more. The scale of things has

changed. I find in most of them that they are more honest in little

things, which comes from the fact that they need not be penurious. The

real estate dealer is an unscrupulous sharper, I know, but in that he

merely shares the unenviable reputation of his guild.

I should say that many of the surface vices born of certain economic

conditions have disappeared, although I do not see that any great

virtues have taken their places or that at the present time any great

ethical movement is apparent. The synagogue is sterile in that

direction, and the average Rabbi among this class is no ethical factor.

The public schools, which of course reach only the children, are much

too crowded and have such a superabundance of raw material to work upon

that it is impossible for them to reach deep enough into the crowded

life of the Ghetto. Great ethical factors are the Jewish Alliance

already mentioned, Cooper Institute, with its many lectures and Sunday

afternoon services, and some of the settlements in which many honest

attempts are made and splendid results achieved.

But “Salvation is still from the Jews,” still from within, and the best

thing which can be done for the Russian Jews of New York, and for all

the Jews in America, is to make them more truly Jewish, and that is a

task at which happily both Jew and Christian may work, and for that task

we all need the larger vision which comes partially, at least, from

knowing one another.

XII

THE SLAVS AT HOME

Nearly the whole eastern portion of Europe is Slavic territory, and

although here and there broken into by other races, it is the Slav’s own

world which he inhabits. A world which is constantly growing larger in

spite of the fact that his advance in Asia has been checked.

One need not travel longer than a few hours from the German cities of

Berlin, Leipsic, from the Austrian capital, Vienna, or from Venice, in

Italy, to find himself far from German speech, habits and customs.

On the Baltic and on the Adriatic, as well as on the Black Sea, the Slav

holds complete possession, although politically he may not everywhere be

the master. He undoubtedly differs in many ways from his close

neighbours, but just where that difference lies is hard to tell, because

the portrayal of the characteristics of a race seems perilous, the

danger being to ascribe to a nation, as traits, the agreeable or

disagreeable impressions gathered from individuals during visits of

shorter or longer duration. Inherited prejudices play no little part in

such judgments; and, again, we too often hear nations given praise or

blame which is based upon an indigestible dish, a disagreeable day, a

good glass of wine, or joyous _camaraderie_.

To characterize the Slav is doubly difficult, because he has managed in

the last twenty years to start many conflicts, and therefore has made

enemies, who are apt to ascribe to him uncomplimentary characteristics.

The Englishman has disagreeable notions of the Slav in the East, the

German has his Polish problem, the Austrian has the belligerent Czech,

the Italian on the Adriatic has the assertive Illyrian; the Turk doesn’t

think very highly of his Slav neighbours, the Bulgarians and

Montenegrins. It is not only hard not to be prejudiced against the Slav,

but it is hard to be informed about him; first, because he has written

very little about himself, with a few notable exceptions, and, secondly,

because there are so many Slavic tribes which have remained isolated one

from the other, have developed upon different lines, or have been

influenced by the stronger race to which they happened to be neighbours,

so that many characteristics which we ascribe to them are often the

borrowed virtues, or more frequently the sins, of their neighbours.

[Illustration: FROM THE BLACK MOUNTAIN.

There is no more sturdy stock in Europe than the Slav of Montenegro,

none more ready to turn from gun to wood axe, from blood-revenge to

citizenship.]

The Wends, Poles, and Bohemians show in speech and life influences of

their German neighbours; the Slovak in Hungary has a strong Magyar

taint; the Croatian, Servian, Bulgarian, and the Montenegrin come

dangerously near the Turk; the Dalmatian on the Adriatic, in spite of

his resistance against it, shows influences of Venice, not only in the

magnificent architecture of his churches, but also in language and

character; while the Slovene of the Alps has received much good from his

brave Tyrolese neighbours whom of course he in turn has influenced.

The only Slavic people who present an unbroken surface for observation

are the Russians, who, undivided by high mountains or other natural

difficulties, have blended their differences to some extent, and have

become a vast nation, with a common language, a common faith, and

certain characteristics which have become the common possession of all

the people. But to generalize even about the Russian is impossible,

inasmuch as there are at least two well-defined types, divided

geographically, and differing not only in outward appearance, but in

nearly everything about which one is sorely tempted to write in general

terms.

The Great Russian, who occupies the largest part of his native land, is

undoubtedly of mixed blood, the Finnish extraction manifesting itself in

the flattened features and the protruding cheek-bones; while his enemies

say that you need not scratch him long before you strike the Tartar. He

is rather roughly made, his features are anything but delicate, the nose

is heavy and inclined to be pugnacious (this may be taken as the

general tendency of the Slavic nose), his eyes are brown or pale blue,

and friendly, and the face is suffused by a health-betraying glow. The

colour of the hair is seldom or never black, and shades all the way from

a light brown to a definite red, and from that to a rather indefinite

blond.

The other pronounced type is that of the Little Russian, who occupies

nearly all the southern portion of the country, and differs from his

more numerous brothers in physique and habits as the southern people

usually differ from the northern. The Little Russians are, generally

speaking, smaller, the face more delicately chiselled, complexion and

hair darker, their women vivacious and handsome, and they claim to be of

purer Slavic blood, although you do not have to scratch them at all to

find the Tartar.

The Slav has moved from the Dnieper as far east as the Ural, and has

moved beyond it as fast as steam could carry him. He has entered the

heart of Europe, is at the doors of the German capital, and has almost

supplanted the native Austrian in Vienna. In the Alps, on its southern

slopes, he has built his huts within nature’s citadels, and faces Italy

on the Adriatic. In the Balkans he has asserted himself, has shaken off

the yoke of Islam, and is destined to be the master of the Bosphorus;

while the Karpathians, which, like a crescent, wind about Hungary, are

the stronghold of the ever-increasing Slav.

In a larger measure the other Slavic tribes on non-Russian soil differ

one from another; thus, the Dalmatian is the giant among them, and he of

the Boche de Cattaro is a veritable Slavic Apollo, measuring, on an

average, six feet three inches. He is dark-skinned, and graceful in his

movements. But size and beauty decrease as one travels northward through

Bulgaria and Servia into Hungary, Bohemia, and Poland.

One despairs of designating as a race, or even as a nation, a people

which differs more widely than one can tell within the limits of a

chapter; people who have neither a history nor a literature in common,

and whose language, although philologically one, varies so that if they

undertook to build a tower or an empire, the confusion of the Biblical

Babel would find a parallel in modern history.

And yet these differing tribes or nationalities have some things in

common, especially in the social life and organism. There is, first of

all, a temper which is among all of them impassive, seldom aroused even

under the influence of drink. This explains the ease with which they

have been conquered by other races, seldom coming to independence, only

the nature of their country having compelled the Russians to make a

Russia, which they were a long time in making. This also explains the

despotism of the Czar, the patience with which it has been borne, and

the long stretches of years without revolution or reformation. But now

his wrath is kindled and the oppression of years has aroused his fury.

The Slav is not a builder of empires, because he is not a citizen but a

subject--a severe master or a submissive servant. As a rule, he bears

oppression patiently, shrinks from overcoming obstacles, is seldom

inquisitive enough to climb over the mountains which lock in his native

village to see what is beyond them, never cares much for the sea and its

perils, the Russian’s desire for harbours being a political necessity

rather than a natural want. Even a democratic institution, such as the

“mir” in Russia, which borders strongly upon communism, and is by some

scholars urged as an indication of the Slavs’ independent spirit, is to

me a proof of their lack of that spirit. Any one who has been at a

meeting of the “mir” knows that the one or the few never dissent; things

go just as they come, and the strong rascal (and there are such among

the Slavs) rules “mir” or “bratstvo” at his own pleasure, and no one

says, “Why do ye so?”

The family bears among the Slavs strong archaic forms, especially among

those of the south, where the bratstvo (brotherhood) is still the unit.

A bratstvo occupies, according to its size, one or more villages; and

church, cemetery, meadows, and mills are held in common. Besides these

peaceful possessions, they have every quarrel in common, and every

member of the bratstvo is most ready to avenge the honour of his people.

These are characteristics visible in their colonies in America. In

Montenegro, the Herzegovina, and also in some parts of Dalmatia, blood

vengeance is still practiced, and it not seldom happens that, to avenge

one life, war is waged until there is not one male member left who can

carry a gun; then the quarrels are continued by the next generation. The

bratstvo is ruled by an elder, elected by all its male members. He is

their justice of the peace, the presiding officer at all meetings, and

in case of war is the captain of his company. The members of a bratstvo

consider themselves blood relatives, intermarriages were formerly

prohibited, and even now are not common. The aristocratic spirit shows

itself in the fact that mechanics, especially blacksmiths, are expelled

from it and share none of its privileges or responsibilities. The elder

of the bratstvo, or household, is an embryo Czar, and the honours shown

to him by all its members express the reverence which the Slav always

shows to those in authority. He can withhold permission for smoking,

dancing, or playing; no one touches the food until he has tasted it, no

one is seated in his presence until he has permitted it; he is the one

member of the household who has an individual spoon, which may not be

used in the cooking; and yet from experience I know that he may

sometimes play the Czar too much, and that there is temper enough left

in the household, if not in the men at least in the women, to make it

decidedly uncomfortable for him, and to remind him of his plebeian

origin and his democratic relatives.

The further north one travels, the more the bratstvo decreases, although

the large communal households do not entirely disappear even in Russia.

Everywhere the bond of relationship is very strong, and to become the

godfather of a child unites one to its family for weal or woe. There is

one relationship common among the southern Slavs which exceeds that of

the closest tie of blood; it is that of _probratimtsvo_, or

_prosestrimtstvo_, a brotherhood or sisterhood, or close friendship,

between two men or two women, or even between a man and a woman, which

among orthodox Slavs is still solemnized with the sacraments of the

church. Of course this solemn service is followed by a feast, and the

following toast shows the spirit of that occasion:

With whom drink I to-day?

With thee, honoured brother, with thee drink I to-day

In God’s name.

The Virgin bless thine earthly store;

Increase thine honour more and more;

Be near thy friend with helpful deed,

But never thou his help to need.

God grant thee much of earthly bliss,

And may the saints thy forehead kiss.

May wine for friends abundant flow,

And children in thy household grow.

May God unite our house and land,

As we thus grasp each other’s hand.

Admirable as is the family tie which binds the Slav, abhorrent even to

the strongest “Slavophile” is the position occupied by woman in the

family and in the social life among Southern and Eastern Slavs. To

escape the charge of prejudice, I shall quote a few proverbs current

among the Southern Slavs--a few out of many hundreds:

The man is the head, the woman is grass.

One man is worth more than ten women.

A man of straw is worth more than a woman of gold.

Let the dog bark, but let the woman keep silent.

He who does not beat his wife is no man.

“What shall I get when I marry?” asks a boy of his father. “For

your wife a stick, for your children a switch.”

Twice in his life is a man happy: once when he marries, and once

when he buries his wife.

And the woman sings in the Russian folk-song, which I have freely

translated,

Love me true, and love me quick,

Pull my hair, and use the stick.

Although there are love-songs of another kind, in which woman is

praised for her charms, she becomes virtually a slave as soon as she

marries, and the little poetry of the folk-song does not accompany her

even to the marriage altar. She is valued only for the work she can do

in a household and for the children she can bear; and should this latter

blessing be denied her, her lot becomes doubly pitiable, and she

sometimes seeks release by suicide, after which the proverb says of her,

“It is better thus; a barren woman is of no use in the world.” In

Montenegro the proverb says, “My wife is my mule,” and she is treated

accordingly; and to see her bent double beneath her load of wood, flour,

or oil, while her liege lord walks erect by her side, with his arsenal

of weapons in his girdle, is to see the proverb in action. Yet here,

where woman’s lot is the worst, woman’s virtue is regarded most highly,

the penalty for adultery being swift death, and the social vice almost

unknown.

It would, of course, be unjust to charge every Slav with beating his

wife, but, unfortunately, it is the rule rather than the exception among

the peasants; and the lot of the Slavic woman grows better only as the

Slav is further from Eastern barbarism and nearer to Western

civilization. Yet she is wooed with the same ardour as is her more

favoured sister, and perhaps she is loved just as much by her husband,

only he has a strange way of showing his affection. That the Slavic

woman possesses the qualities to make of herself a “new woman” can be

plainly seen among the women of the higher class in Russia, where there

is a second paradise for women; America, by common consent, being the

first.

Among all the Slavs music is much loved, and the fields in the busiest

harvest-time are melodious from song. The Czech’s love for music has

become proverbial, although the proverb is not complimentary to him and

was invented by his enemies. It is said that when a Czech boy is born,

the nurse holds up to him a penny and a violin; if he seizes the penny,

he will be a thief; if the violin, he will be a musician. It is true

that every Czech village has its band, which often wanders all over

Europe, making melody as it goes; and, in nine cases out of ten, the

“Leetle Sherman pand” upon which the American bestows his pennies and

his jokes does not come from Germany at all, but from some village in

Bohemia. Mechanical musical instruments have played havoc with the

native genius of these people. Slavic music has a melancholy strain, and

this is especially true of the music of the Southern Slav, whose simple

musical instruments, the “swirala” and the “gusla,” are not capable of

giving one joyous note, even at a wedding. They may be truly called

Jeremiac instruments. With love of music goes the love of dancing, and

the Czechs and Poles invent new dances for every occasion, while the

Southern Slavs cling to their monotonous national “kolo,” which is a

reckless sort of kicking exercise, accompanied by the aforesaid

instruments, while some old minstrel sings of the heroic deeds of the

past.

Cities among the Slavs are rare; the people usually live in villages,

nearly all of which have common characteristics. It seemed strange to

find that I could walk through a Russian village near Moscow, and yet

could easily think myself among the Slovaks, thousands of miles away, or

even among the more picturesque Dalmatians on the Adriatic. The villages

all look alike. There is always one street, and just one, in the

village; one wood or mud house leans against the other, one thatched

roof overlaps the other, and there is never more than one fire at a time

in a village like this; for generally the whole business burns down at

once. The barns, called “stodoly,” are generally built together, a short

distance from the village. The church occupies the centre of the

village, and near by is a mud-puddle, where geese, pigs, and babies take

their daily swim. Put into some convenient place a pump, tie some

ox-teams to it, place in the foreground clouds of dust or a sea of mud,

and you have a fair picture of Slavic villages.

Of course they differ in degrees of ugliness, the Russian village taking

the first prize for unadulterated homeliness, as there is no sign of

beauty, not even a primitive attempt at decoration, anywhere. Among the

Slovaks in Hungary, and among the neighbouring tribes, there is an

attempt at art. Crudely painted houses are the rule, and somewhere about

them there will be an indication of decoration, but it requires a vivid

imagination to find out just what it is, the art spirit being strong but

undeveloped.

Little flower-gardens near or around the houses are seldom or never seen

in Russia, but are common among the Czechs and other Western Slavs. The

interior of the houses differs among them as to size and arrangement.

The Russian house has two rooms, separated by the main entrance. One is

called the cold room and the other the hot room. The hot, or winter room

has as its chief possession a brick bake, cook, and heating stove or

oven, the top of which is the bedstead in the winter-time; and a very

comfortable place it is. The cleanliness in these Slavic homes is also

of varied degrees, and is often conspicuous by its absence. Dirt, I am

sorry to say, is often in evidence, and certain insects which would

annoy us dreadfully exist in these rooms in uncountable numbers, but are

treated with silent contempt, which does not tend to their diminution.

The Slavic tribes differ in their costumes, but nearly all of them have

retained the sheepskin coat, which they wear summer and winter. The

wool is turned inside. The skin is often coloured red, and the legs of

the sheep hang over the shoulders. Both men and women wear this coat;

but, of course, the woman’s coat is decorated in fantastic ways and

costs a great deal of money. The rest of the man’s attire consists of

linen trousers and shirt, home-made from the tough fibre to the coarse

stitching. A cap is also worn, and in Russia is generally of fur. There

are numberless varieties of this dress, but in each village all dress

alike, differing only in the fineness of the material used.

“How do the women dress?” Can a man ever describe a woman’s dress? And

can any mortal describe the Slavic woman’s dress, when in nearly every

village they have a peculiar style? And, oh! what styles! Colour in

everything; red, yellow, silver, and gold, laces and embroideries and

what-not, costing sometimes nearly two hundred dollars. But, of course

they do not get a new dress every year, just one in a lifetime, or, if

they are really good, maybe two. The costliness of the woman’s dress is

the cause of much suffering, for, although the styles do not change,

vanity is a shrewd mistress, and will put a half-inch broader lace upon

a woman’s cap, thus setting all the feminine hearts on fire from envy;

and the next market day the broader lace will be shading every woman’s

eyes, although perhaps a feather-bed had to be pawned, or next winter’s

pig had to wander to the butcher’s ere its time had come.

Among the Slovaks, with whom woman’s garb is most costly and most

picturesque, there is a great desire to lay it aside and adopt the more

fashionable dress of society; for the peasant’s costume compels one to

be addressed as an inferior--_ti_ (thou)--and putting on the modern garb

puts one, at least in the eyes of strangers, upon a higher social level,

and _onyi_ (you) is the pronoun used.

The Slavic peasant lives simply enough at home. His food consists

largely of a vegetable diet, and meat on the table is the sign of a

holiday, a wedding, or of a fortunate excursion into a neighbour’s

chicken-coop or pig-sty. Among one large tribe they have only one meal a

day, usually at noon. It is cooked in the morning and kept warm under

the ashes or under the feather-bed until it is time to eat it.

The main staples of diet among all are, potatoes, black, sour rye bread,

cabbage for soups and cakes; _kascha_, or gruel; and, finally

_barshtsh_, a concoction made of beets, and not half so bad as it looks.

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