The largest number of the Polish immigrants is composed of u

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[Illustration: _From stereograph copyright--1904, by Underwood &

Underwood, N. Y._

AT THE GATE

With tickets fastened to coats and dresses, the immigrants pass out

through the gate to enter into their new inheritance, and become our

fellow citizens.]

ON THE TRAIL

OF

THE IMMIGRANT

EDWARD A. STEINER’S

Studies of Immigration

_From Alien to Citizen_

The Story of My Life in America

Illustrated net $1.50

In this interesting autobiography we see Professor Steiner

pressing ever forward and upward to a position of international

opportunity and influence.

_The wonderful varied Life-story of the author of

“On the Trail of the Immigrant.”_

_The Broken Wall_

Stories of the Mingling Folk.

Illustrated net $1.00

“A big heart and a sense of humor go a long way toward making

a good book. Dr. Edward A. Steiner has both these qualifications

and a knowledge of immigrants’ traits and character.”

--_Outlook._

_Against the Current_

Simple Chapters from a Complex Life.

12mo, cloth net $1.25

“As frank a bit of autobiography as has been published for

many a year. The author has for a long time made a close

study of the problems of immigration, and makes a strong

appeal to the reader.”--_The Living Age._

_The Immigrant Tide--Its Ebb and Flow_

Illustrated, 8vo, cloth net $1.50

“May justly be called an epic of present day immigration,

and is a revelation that should set our country thinking.”

--_Los Angeles Times._

_On the Trail of The Immigrant_

Illustrated, 12mo, cloth net $1.50

“Deals with the character, temperaments, racial traits, aspirations

and capabilities of the immigrant himself. Cannot fail to afford

excellent material for the use of students of immigrant

problems.”--_Outlook._

_The Mediator_

A Tale of the Old World and the New.

Illustrated, 12mo, cloth net $1.25

“A graphic story, splendidly told.”--ROBERT WATCHORN€,

_Former Commissioner of Immigration_.

_Tolstoy, the Man and His Message_

A Biographical Interpretation.

_Revised and enlarged._ Illustrated, 12mo, cloth net $1.50

ON THE TRAIL

OF

THE IMMIGRANT

EDWARD A. STEINER

_Professor in Iowa College, Grinnell, Iowa_

_ILLUSTRATED_

[Illustration]

NEW YORK€ CHICAGO€ TORONTO€

Fleming H. Revell Company

LONDON AND EDINBURGH€

Copyright, 1906, by

FLEMING H. REVELL COMPANY

New York: 158 Fifth Avenue

Chicago: 125 No. Wabash Ave.

Toronto: 25 Richmond Street, W.

London: 21 Paternoster Square

Edinburgh: 100 Princes Street

_This book is affectionately dedicated to

“The Man at the Gate”

ROBERT WATCHORN,

United States Commissioner of Immigration

at the

Port of New York:

Who, in the exercise of his office has been loyal to the interests

of his country, and has dealt humanely, justly and without

prejudice, with men of “Every kindred and tongue and people and

nation.”_

_ACKNOWLEDGMENT_

_Cordial recognition is tendered to the editors of The Outlook for

their courtesy in permitting the use of certain portions of this

book which have already appeared in that journal._

CONTENTS

I. BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION€ 9

II. THE BEGINNING OF THE TRAIL€ 16

III. THE FELLOWSHIP OF THE STEERAGE€ 30

IV. LAND, HO!€ 48

V. AT THE GATEWAY€ 64

VI. “THE MAN AT THE GATE”€ 78

VII. THE GERMAN IN AMERICA€ 94

VIII. THE SCANDINAVIAN IMMIGRANT€ 112

IX. THE JEW IN HIS OLD WORLD HOME€ 126

X. THE NEW EXODUS€ 143

XI. IN THE GHETTOS OF NEW YORK€ 154

XII. THE SLAVS AT HOME€ 179

XIII. THE SLAVIC INVASION€ 198

XIV. DRIFTING WITH THE “HUNKIES”€ 213

XV. THE BOHEMIAN IMMIGRANT€ 225

XVI. LITTLE HUNGARY€ 238

XVII. THE ITALIAN AT HOME€ 252

XVIII. THE ITALIAN IN AMERICA€ 262

XIX. WHERE GREEK MEETS GREEK€ 282

XX. THE NEW AMERICAN AND THE NEW PROBLEM€ 292

XXI. THE NEW AMERICAN AND OLD PROBLEMS€ 309

XXII. RELIGION AND POLITICS€ 321

XXIII. BIRDS OF PASSAGE€ 334

XXIV. IN THE SECOND CABIN€ 347

XXV. AU REVOIR€ 359

APPENDIX€ 365

INDEX€ 371

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

_Facing page_

AT THE GATE€ _Title_

AS SEEN BY MY LADY OF THE FIRST CABIN€ 10

THE BEGINNING OF THE TRAIL€ 26

WILL THEY LET ME IN?€ 50

THE SHEEP AND THE GOATS€ 66

BACK TO THE FATHERLAND€ 92

FAREWELL TO HOME AND FRIENDS€ 114

ISRAELITES INDEED€ 140

THE GHETTO OF THE NEW WORLD€ 156

FROM THE BLACK MOUNTAIN€ 180

WITHOUT THE PALE€ 208

HO FOR THE PRAIRIE!€ 246

THE BOSS€ 270

IN AN EVENING SCHOOL, NEW YORK€ 294

A SLAV OF THE BALKANS€ 302

ON THE DAY OF ATONEMENT€ 330

ON THE TRAIL OF THE IMMIGRANT

I

BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION

_My Dear Lady of the First Cabin_:

On the fourth morning out from Hamburg, after your maid had disentangled

you from your soft wrappings of steamer rugs, and leaning upon her arm,

you paced the deck for the first time, the sun smiled softly upon the

smooth sea, and its broken reflections came back hot upon your pale

cheeks. Then your gentle eyes wandered from the illimitable sea back to

the steamer which carried you. You saw the four funnels out of which

came pouring clouds of smoke trailing behind the ship in picturesque

tracery; you watched the encircling gulls which had been your fellow

travellers ever since we left the white cliffs of Albion; and then your

eyes rested upon those mighty Teutons who stood on the bridge, and whose

blue eyes searched the sea for danger, or rested upon the compass for

direction.

From below came the sweet notes of music, gentle and wooing, one of the

many ways in which the steamship company tried to make life pleasant

for you, to bring back your “Bon appétit” to its tempting tables. Then

suddenly, you stood transfixed, looking below you upon the deck from

which came rather pronounced odours and confused noises. The notes of a

jerky harmonica harshly struck your ears attuned to symphonies; and the

song which accompanied it was gutteral and unmusical.

The deck which you saw, was crowded by human beings; men, women and

children lay there, many of them motionless, and the children, numerous

as the sands of the sea,--unkempt and unwashed, were everywhere in

evidence.

You felt great pity for the little ones, and you threw chocolate cakes

among them, smiling as you saw them in their tangled struggle to get

your sweet bounty.

You pitied them all; the frowsy headed, ill clothed women, the men who

looked so hungry and so greedy, and above all you pitied, you said

so,--do you remember?--you said you pitied your own country for having

to receive such a conglomerate of human beings, so near to the level of

the beasts. I well recall it; for that day they did look like animals.

It was the day after the storm and they had all been seasick; they had

neither the spirit nor the appliances necessary for cleanliness. The

toilet rooms were small and hard to reach, and sea water as you well

know is not a good cleanser. They were wrapped in gray blankets which

they had brought from their bunks, and you were right; they did look

like animals, but not half so clean as the cattle which one sees so

often on an outward journey; certainly not half so comfortable.

[Illustration: _From stereograph copyright--1905, by Underwood &

Underwood, N. Y._

AS SEEN BY MY LADY OF THE FIRST CABIN.

The fellowship of the steerage makes good comrades, where no barriers

exist and introductions are neither possible nor necessary.]

You were taken aback when I spoke to you. I took offense at your

suspecting us to be beasts, for I was one of them; although all that

separated you and me was a little iron bar, about fifteen or twenty

rungs of an iron ladder, and perhaps as many dollars in the price of our

tickets.

You were amazed at my temerity, and did not answer at once; then you

begged my pardon, and I grudgingly forgave you. One likes to have a

grudge against the first cabin when one is travelling steerage.

The next time you came to us, it was without your maid. You had quite

recovered and so had we. The steerage deck was more crowded than ever,

but we were happy, comparatively speaking; happy in spite of the fact

that the bread was so doughy that we voluntarily fed the fishes with it,

and the meat was suspiciously flavoured.

Again you threw your sweetmeats among us, and asked me to carry a basket

of fruit to the women and children. I did so; I think to your

satisfaction. When I returned the empty basket, you wished to know all

about us, and I proceeded to tell you many things--who the Slavs are,

and I brought you fine specimens of Poles, Bohemians, Servians and

Slovaks,--men, women and children: and they began to look to you like

men, women and children, and not like beasts. I introduced to you,

German, Austrian and Hungarian Jews, and you began to understand the

difference. Do you remember the group of Italians, to whom you said

good-morning in their own tongue, and how they smiled back upon you all

the joy of their native land? And you learned to know the difference

between a Sicilian and a Neapolitan, between a Piedmontese and a

Calabrian. You met Lithuanians, Greeks, Magyars and Finns; you came in

touch with twenty nationalities in an hour, and your sympathetic smile

grew sweeter, and your loving bounty increased day by day.

You wondered how I happened to know these people so well; and I told you

jokingly, that it was my Social nose which over and over again, had led

me steerage way across the sea, back to the villages from which the

immigrants come and onward with them into the new life in America.

You suspected that it was not a Social nose but a Social heart; that I

was led by my sympathies and not by my scientific sense, and I did not

dispute you. You urged me to write what I knew and what I felt, and now

you see, I have written. I have tried to tell it in this book as I told

it to you on board of ship. I told you much about the Jews and the

Slavs because they are less known and come in larger numbers. When I had

finished telling you just who these strangers are, and something of

their life at home and among us, in the strange land, you grew very

sympathetic, without being less conscious how great is the problem which

these strangers bring with them.

If I succeed in accomplishing this for my larger audience, the public, I

shall be content.

You were loth to listen to figures; for you said that statistics were

not to your liking and apt to be misleading; so I leave them from these

pages and crowd them somewhere into the back of the book, where the

curious may find them if they delight in them.

My telling deals only with life; all I attempt to do is to tell what I

have lived among the immigrants, and not much of what I have counted.

Here and there I have dropped a story which you said might be worth

re-telling; and I tell it as I told it to you--not to earn the smile

which may follow, but simply that it may win a little more sympathy for

the immigrant.

If here and there I stop to moralize, it is largely from force of habit;

and not because I am eager to play either preacher or prophet. If I

point out some great problems, I do it because I love America with a

love passing your own; because you are home-born and know not the lot

of the stranger.

You may be incredulous if I tell you that I do not realize that I was

not born and educated here; that I am not thrilled by the sight of my

cradle home, nor moved by my country’s flag.

I know no Fatherland but America; for after all, it matters less where

one was born, than where one’s ideals had their birth; and to me,

America is not the land of mighty dollars, but the land of great ideals.

I am not yet convinced that the peril to these ideals lies in those who

come to you, crude and unfinished; if I were, I would be the first one

to call out: “Shut the gates,” and not the last one to exile myself for

your country’s good.

I think that the peril lies more in the first cabin than in the

steerage; more in the American colonies in Monte Carlo and Nice than in

the Italian colonies in New York and Chicago. Not the least of the peril

lies in the fact that there is too great a gulf between you and the

steerage passenger, whose virtues you will discover as soon as you learn

to know him.

I send out this book in the hope that it will mediate between the first

cabin and the steerage; between the hilltop and lower town; between the

fashionable West side and the Ghetto.

Do you remember my Lady of the First Cabin, what those Slovaks said to

you as you walked down the gangplank in Hoboken? What they said to you,

I now say to my book: “Z’Boghem,” “The Lord be with thee.”

II

THE BEGINNING OF THE TRAIL

Some twenty years ago, while travelling from Vienna on the Northern

Railway, I was locked into my compartment with three Slavic women, who

entered at a way station, and who for the first time in their lives had

ventured from their native home by way of the railroad. In fear and awe

they looked out the window upon the moving landscape, while with each

recurring jolt they held tightly to the wooden benches.

One of them volunteered the information that they were journeying a

great distance, nearly twenty-five miles from their native village. I

ventured to say that I was going much further than twenty-five miles,

upon which I was asked my destination. I replied: “America,” expecting

much astonishment at the announcement; but all they said was: “Merica?

where is that? is it really further than twenty-five miles?”

Until about the time mentioned, the people of Eastern and Southeastern

Europe had remained stationary; just where they had been left by the

slow and glacial like movement of the races and tribes to which they

belonged. Scarcely any traces of their former migrations survive,

except where some warlike tribe has exploited its history in song,

describing its escape from the enemy, into some mountain fastness, which

was of course deserted as soon as the fury of war had spent itself.

From the great movements which changed the destinies of other European

nations, these people were separated by political and religious

barriers; so that the discovery of America was as little felt as the

discovery of the new religious and political world laid bare by the

Reformation. Each tribe and even each smaller group developed according

to its own native strength, or according to how closely it leaned

towards Western Europe, which was passing through great evolutionary and

revolutionary changes.

On the whole, it may be said that in many ways they remained stationary,

certainly immobile. Old customs survived and became laws; slight

differentiations in dress occurred and became the unalterable costume of

certain regions; idioms grew into dialects and where the native genius

manifested itself in literature, the dialect became a language. These

artificial boundaries became impassable, especially where differences in

religion occurred. Each group was locked in, often hating its nearest

neighbours and closest kinsmen, and also having an aversion to anything

which came from without. Social and economic causes played no little

part, both in the isolation of these tribes and groups and in the

necessity for migration. When the latter was necessary, they moved

together to where there was less tyranny and more virgin soil. They went

out peacefully most of the time, but could be bitter, relentless and

brave when they encountered opposition.

But they did not go out with the conqueror’s courage nor with the

adventurer’s lust for fame; they were no iconoclasts of a new

civilization, nor the bearers of new tidings. They went where no one

remained; where the Romans had thinned the ranks of the Germans, where

Hun, Avar and Turk had left valleys soaked in blood and made ready for

the Slav’s crude plow; where Roman colonies were decaying and Roman

cities were sinking into the dunes made by ocean’s sands. They destroyed

nothing nor did they build anything; they accepted little or nothing

which they found on conquered soil, but lived the old life in the new

home, whether it was under the shadow of the Turkish crescent, or where

Roman conquerors had left empty cities and decaying palaces.

In travelling through that most interesting Austrian province, Dalmatia,

on the shores of the Adriatic, opposite Italy, I came upon the palace of

Diocletian, in which the Slav has built a town, using the palace walls

for the foundations of his dwellings. In spite of the fact that both

strength and beauty lie imbedded in these foundations, the houses are

as crude and simple as those built in an American mining camp. Upon the

ruins of the ancient city of Salona, I found peasants breaking the

Corinthian pillars into gravel for donkey paths. These people although

surrounded by conquering nations were not amalgamated, and were enslaved

but not changed. Art lived and died in their midst but bequeathed them

little or no culture.

This is true not only of many of the Slavs but also of many of the Jews

who live among them and who have remained unimpressed and unchanged for

centuries; except as tyrannical governments played shuffle-board with

them, pushing them hither and thither as policy or caprice dictated.

The Italian peasant began his wanderings earlier than the other nations,

at least to other portions of Europe, where he was regarded as

indispensable in the building of railroads. These movements, however,

were spasmodic, and he soon returned to his native village to remain

there, locked in by prejudice and superstition, and unbaptized by the

spirit of progress.

But all this is different now; and the change came through that word

quite unknown in those regions twenty-five years ago--the word AMERICA€.

Having exhausted the labour supply of northern Europe which, as for

instance in Germany, needed all its strength for the up-building of its

own industries, American capitalists deemed it necessary to find new

human forces to increase their wealth by developing the vast, untouched

natural resources. Just how systematically the recruiting was carried on

is hard to tell, but it is sure that it did not require much effort, and

that the only thing necessary was to make a beginning.

In nearly all the countries from which new forces were to be drawn there

was chronic, economic distress, which had lasted long, and which grew

more painful as new and higher needs disclosed themselves to the lower

classes of society. Most of the land as a rule, was held by a privileged

class, and labour was illy paid. The average earning of a Slovak peasant

during the harvest season was about twenty-five cents a day, which sank

to half that sum the rest of the time, with work as scarce as wages were

low.

If a load of wood was brought to town, it was besieged by a small army

of labourers ready to do the necessary sawing; other work than wood

sawing there practically was none, and consequently in the winter time

much distress prevailed.

The labour of women was still more poorly paid. A muscular servant girl,

who would wash, scrub, attend to the garden and cattle and help with the

harvesting, received about ten dollars a year, with a huge cake and

perhaps a pair of boots no less huge as a premium. These wages were

paid only in the most prosperous portion of the Slavic world, being much

lower in other regions, while in the mountains neither work nor wages

were obtainable.

The hard rye bread, scantily cut and rarely unadulterated, with an

onion, was the daily portion, while meat to many of the people was a

luxury obtainable only on special holidays. I remember vividly the

untimely passing away of a pig, which belonged to a titled estate.

According to the law, which reached with its mighty arm to this small

village, the pig must be decently buried and covered by--not balsam and

spices, but quick lime and coal oil. Hardly had these rites been

performed when the carcass mysteriously disappeared--but meat was

scarce, and the peasants were hungry.

During this same period, the Jewish people who were scattered through

Eastern Europe, began to feel not only economic distress, but existence

itself was often made unbearable by the newly awakened national feeling,

which reacted against the Jews in waves of cruel persecution. Such trade

as could be diverted into other channels was taken from them and they

grew daily poorer, living became precarious and life insecure. It did

not take much agitation to induce any of these people to emigrate, and

when the first venturesome travellers returned with money in the bank,

silver watches in their pockets, “store clothes” on their backs, and a

feeling of “I am as good as anybody” in their minds, each one of them

became an agent and an agitator, and if paid agents ever existed, they

might have been immediately dispensed with.

Now one can stand in any district town of Hungary, Poland or Italy and

see, coming down the mountains or passing along the highways and byways

of the plains, larger or smaller groups of peasants, not all

picturesquely clad, passing in a never ending stream, on, towards this

new world. The stream is growing larger each day, and the source seems

inexhaustible.

Sombre Jews come, on whose faces fear and care have plowed deep furrows,

whose backs are bent beneath the burden of law and lawlessness. They

come, thousands at a time, at least 5,000,000 more may be expected; and

he does not know what misery is, who has not seen them on that march

which has lasted nearly 2,000 years beneath the burden heaped by hate

and prejudice. Both peasant and Jew come from Russian, Austrian or

Magyar rule, under which they have had few of the privileges of

citizenship but many of its burdens. From valleys in the crescent shaped

Carpathians, from the sunny but barren slopes of the Alps and from the

Russian-Polish plains they are coming as once they went forth from

earlier homes; peaceful toilers, who seek a field for their surplus

labour or as traders to use their wits, and it is a longer journey than

any of their timid forbears ever undertook.

The most venturesome of the Slavs, the Bohemians, in whom the love of

wandering was always alive, started this stream of emigration as early

as the seventeenth century, sending us the noblest of their sons and

daughters, the heroes and heroines of the reformatory wars; idealists,

who like the Pilgrim Fathers, came for “Freedom to worship God.” Their

descendants have long ago been blended into the common life of the

people of America, scarcely conscious of the fact that they might have

the same pride in ancestry which the descendants of the Pilgrims delight

to exhibit. Not until the latter part of the nineteenth century, in the

70s, did the Bohemian immigrants come in large numbers and in a steady

stream, bringing with them the Czechs of Moravia, a neighbouring

province. Together they make some 200,000 of our population, fairly

distributed throughout the country, and about equally divided between

tillers of the soil and those following industrial pursuits. Nearly all

Bohemian immigrants come to stay, and adjust themselves more or less

easily to their environment. The economic distress which has brought

them here, while never acute, threatens to become so now from the over

accentuated language struggle which diverts the energies of the people

and makes proper legislation impossible. The building of railroads and

other governmental enterprises have been retarded by parliamentary

obstructionists, to whom language is more than bread and butter.

Business relations with the Germanic portions of Austria have come

almost to a standstill; conditions which are bound to increase

emigration from Bohemia’s industrial centres.

The Poles were the next of the Western Slavs to be drawn out of the

seclusion of their villages; those from Eastern Prussia being the

earliest, and those from Russian Poland the latest who have swelled the

stream of emigration.

The largest number of the Polish immigrants is composed of unskilled

labourers, most of them coming from villages where they worked in the

fields during the summer time, and in winter went to the cities where

they did the cruder work in the factories. The Poles from Germany’s part

of the divided kingdom have furnished nearly their quota of immigrants,

and those remaining upon their native acres will continue to remain

there, if only to spite the Germans who are grievously disappointed not

to see them grow less under the repressive measures of the government.

They are the thorn in the Emperor’s flesh, and with social Democrats

make enough trouble, to verify the saying: “Uneasy lies the head that

wears a crown,” true! even with regard to that most imperial of

emperors.

The Austrian Poles who have retained many of their liberties and have

also gained new privileges, have had a national and intellectual

revival, under the impulse of which the peasantry has been lifted to a

higher level which has reacted upon their economic condition; and

although that condition is rather low in Galicia, as that portion of

Poland is called, immigration from there has reached its high water

mark. The largest increase in immigration among the Poles is to be

looked for from Russian Poland where industrial and political conditions

are growing worse, and where it will take a long time to establish any

kind of equilibrium which will pacify the people and hold them to the

soil.

The Slovaks, who were relatively the best off, and further away from the

main arteries of travel, are, comparatively speaking, newcomers and

furnish at present the largest element in the Western Slavic

immigration. They have retained most staunchly many of their Slavic

characteristics, are the least impressionable among the Western Slavs,

and usually come, lured by the increased wages. They are most liable to

return to the land of their fathers after saving money enough materially

to improve their lot in life.

From the Austrian provinces, Carinthia and Styria, come increasingly

large numbers of Slovenes who are really the link between the Eastern

and Western Slavs. They belong to the highest type of that race, but

represent only a small portion of the large Slavic family. Of the

Eastern Slavs, only the Southern group has moved towards America, the

Russian peasant being bound to the soil, and unable to free himself from

the obligation of paying the heavy taxes, by removal to a foreign

country. With the larger freedom which is bound to come to him, will

also come economic relief so that the emigration of the Russian peasant

in large numbers is not a likelihood.

Lured by promises of higher wages in our industrial centres, Croatians

and Slovenians come in increasingly large numbers, while in smaller

numbers come Servians and Bulgarians.

The only Slavs who are thorough seamen and who are coming to our coasts

in increasingly large numbers as sailors and fishermen, are the

Dalmatians; and last but most heroic of all the Slavs, is the

Montenegrin, who has held his mountain fastnesses against the Turk and

who has been the living wall, resisting the victories of Islam. His

little country is blessed by but a few crumbs of soil between huge

mountains and boulders, and in the measure in which peace reigns in the

Balkans, he is without occupation and sustenance; so that he is

compelled to seek these more fertile shores, where he will for the

first time in history and quite unconsciously, “Turn the sword into a

plowshare and the spear into a pruning hook.”

[Illustration: THE BEGINNING OF THE TRAIL.

The Wanderlust of the olden time still gets its grip on the peasants of

the great plains of Eastern Europe.]

Tennyson does not over-idealize this Montenegrin in his admirable

sonnet:

They rose to where their sovran eagle sails,

They kept their faith, their freedom, on the height,

Chaste, frugal, savage, arm’d by day and night

Against the Turk; whose inroad nowhere scales

Their headlong passes, but his footstep fails,

And red with blood the Crescent reels from fight

Before their dauntless hundreds, in prone flight

By thousands down the crags and thro’ the vales.

O smallest among peoples! rough rock-throne

Of Freedom! warriors beating back the swarm

Of Turkish Islam for five hundred years.

Great Tsernogora! never since thine own

Black ridges drew the cloud and brake the storm

Has breathed a race of mightier mountaineers.

From Lithuania, a province of Russia, come smaller groups of non-Slavic

emigrants; people with an old civilization of which little remains, and

with a language which leans closest to Sanscrit, yet who, because of

their subjection to Russia, have sunk to the level of the Russian

peasants. Then there are Magyars and Finns, rather close kinsmen, who

because one lives in the South and the other far North, are as different

as the South is from the North; Greeks and Syrians, traders all of them

and workers only when they must be. We shall follow them more closely as

they pass into our own national life.

The Italian emigration, the largest which we receive from any one

source, comes primarily from Southern Italy, from the crowded cities

with their unspeakable vices; the smallest number of emigrants come from

the villages where they have all the virtues of tillers of the soil. The

most volatile of our foreign population, and perhaps the most clannish,

they represent a problem recognized by their home government, which was

the first to concern itself with it, to study it systematically, and to

aid our government so far as possible in a rational solution. The number

of Italian emigrants is still undiminished, and in spite of the fact

that in recent years more than 200,000 of them have annually left their

native land, their withdrawal is scarcely felt and the number could be

doubled without perceptible diminution at home.

There are then upon this immigrant trail, many people of varied cultural

development; some of them coming from countries in which they have been

part of a very high type of civilization, while others come from the

veritable back woods of Europe, into which neither steam nor electricity

has entered to disturb the old order, nor has yet awakened a new life.

None of them starts for America tempted by wealth which can be picked

up in the streets. That mythical man who, upon landing, refused to take

a quarter from the side-walk, because he had heard that dollars were

lying about loose, in America, has found it true because he has gone

into politics.

The immigrant of to-day, be he Slav, Italian or Jew, starts upon this

trail, with no culture, it is true, but with a virgin mind in which it

may be made to grow. Not always with a keen mind, but with a surplus of

muscle, which he is ready to exchange at the mouth of the pit or by the

furnace’s hot blast, for a higher wage than he could earn in the miry

fields of his native village;--but it is by no means settled who gets

the best of the bargain.

III

THE FELLOWSHIP OF THE STEERAGE

Back of Warsaw, Vienna, Naples and Palermo, with no place on the world’s

map to mark their existence, are small market towns to which the

peasants come from their hidden villages. They come not as is their wont

on feast and fast days, with song and music, but solemnly; the women

bent beneath their burdens, carried on head or back, and the men who

walk beside them, less conscious than usual of their superiority.

The women have lost the splendour which usually marks their attire.

Their embroidered, stiffly starched petticoats, flowered aprons and gay

kerchiefs have disappeared, and instead they have put on more sombre

garb, some cast off clothing of our civilization. The men, too, have

left their gayer coats behind them, to wear the shoddy ones which

neither warm nor become them.

Beneath the black cross which marks the boundary of the Polish town,

they usually rest themselves. The cross was erected when the peasants

were liberated from serfdom, and beneath it every wanderer rests and

prays: every wanderer but the Jew, for whom the cross symbolizes neither

liberty nor rest.

These towns which used to be buried in a cloud of dust in the summer and

a sea of mud in the winter time; to which the peasant came but rarely,

and then only to do his petty trading or his quarrelling before the law,

are the first catch basins of the little percolating streams of

emigration, and have felt their influence in increased prosperity. They

are the supply stations where much of the money is spent on the way out,

and into which the money flows from the mining camps and industrial

centres in America. One little house leans hospitably against the other,

a two-story house marks the dwelling of nobility, and the power of the

law is personified in the gendarmes, who, weaponed to the teeth, patrol

the peaceful town.

In Russia, before one may emigrate, many painful and costly formalities

must be observed, a passport obtained through the governor and speeded

on its way by sundry tips. It is in itself an expensive document without

which no Russian subject may leave his community, much less his country.

Many persons, therefore, forego the pleasure of securing official

permission to leave the Czar’s domain, and go, trusting to good luck or

to a few rubles with which they may close the ever open eyes of the

gendarmes of the Russian boundary. Austrian and Italian authorities also

require passports for their subjects, but they are less costly and are

granted to all who have satisfied the demands of the law.

These formalities over, the travellers move on to the market square, a

dusty place, where women squat, selling fruits and vegetables; the

plaster cast and gaily decorated saints, stoically receiving the

adoration of our pilgrims, who come for the last time with a petition

which now is for a prosperous journey.

There also, the agent of the steamship company receives with just as

much feeling their hard earned money in exchange for the long coveted

“Ticket,” which is to bear them to their land of hope.

From hundreds of such towns and squares, thousands of simple-minded

people turn westward each day, disappearing in the clouds of dust which

mark their progress to the railroad station and on towards the dreaded

sea.

From the small windows of fourth-class railway carriages they get

glimpses of a new world, larger than they ever dreamed it to be, and

much more beautiful. Through orderly and stately Germany, with its

picturesque villages, its castled hills and magnificent cities they

pass; across mountains and hills, and by rushing rivers, until one day

upon the horizon they see a forest of masts wedged in between the

warehouses and factories of a great city.

Guided by an official of the steamship company whose wards they have

become, they alight from the train; but not without having here and

there to pay tribute to that organized brigandage, by which every port

of embarkation is infested. The beer they drink and the food they buy,

the necessary and unnecessary things which they are urged to purchase,

are excessively dear, by virtue of the fact that a double profit is made

for the benefit of the officials or the company which they represent.

The first lodging places before they are taken to the harbours, are

dear, poor and often unsafe. Much bad business is done there which might

be controlled or entirely discontinued. For instance in Rotterdam three

years ago, coming with a party of emigrants, we were met by an employee

of the steamship company and taken in charge, ostensibly to be guided to

the company’s offices near the harbour. On the way we were made to stop

at a dirty, third-class hotel (whose chief equipment was a huge bar) and

were told to make ourselves comfortable. While we were not compelled to

spend our money, we were invited to do so, urged to drink, and left

there fully three hours until this same employee called for us. I

complained to the company through the only official whom I could reach,

and who no doubt was one of the beneficiaries, for the complaint did not

travel far.

This is only the remnant of an abuse from which the emigrant and the

country which received him, used to suffer; for our stringent

immigration laws have made it more profitable to treat the immigrant

with consideration and to look after his physical welfare.

Yet, admirable as is the machinery which has been set up at Hamburg for

the reception of the emigrant, these minor abuses have not all passed

away and while care is taken that his health does not suffer and that

his purse is not completely emptied, he is still regarded as prey.

The Italian government safeguards its emigrants admirably at Naples and

Genoa; but other governments are seemingly unconcerned. When the

official has done with the emigrants, they are taken to the emigrant

depot of the company (which in many cases is inadequate for the large

number of passengers), their papers are examined and they are separated

according to sex and religion. At Hamburg they are required to take

baths and their clothing is disinfected; after which they constantly

emit the delicious odours of hot steam and carbolic acid. The sleeping

arrangements at Hamburg are excellent. Usually twenty persons are in one

ward, but private rooms which have beds for four people can be rented.

The food is abundant and good, plenty of bread and meat are to be had,

and luxuries can be bought at reasonable prices. At Hamburg music is

provided and the emigrants may make merry at a dance until dawn of the

day of sailing.

The medical examination is now very strict, yet seemingly not strict

enough; for quite a large percentage of those who pass the German

physicians are deported on account of physical unfitness.

I wish to make this point here, and emphasize it: that restrictive

immigration has had a remarkable influence upon the German and

Netherlands steamship companies, in that they have become fairly humane

and decent, which they were not; but improvement in this direction is

still possible.

The day of embarkation finds an excited crowd with heavy packs and

heavier hearts, climbing the gangplank. An uncivil crew directs the

bewildered travellers to their quarters, which in the older ships are

far too inadequate, and in the newer ships are, if anything, worse.

Clean they are; but there is neither breathing space below nor deck room

above, and the 900 steerage passengers crowded into the hold of so

elegant and roomy a steamer as the _Kaiser Wilhelm II_, of the North

German Lloyd line, are positively packed like cattle, making a walk on

deck when the weather is good, absolutely impossible, while to breathe

clean air below in rough weather, when the hatches are down is an equal

impossibility. The stenches become unbearable, and many of the emigrants

have to be driven down; for they prefer the bitterness and danger of the

storm to the pestilential air below. The division between the sexes is

not carefully looked after, and the young women who are quartered among

the married passengers have neither the privacy to which they are

entitled nor are they much more protected than if they were living

promiscuously.

The food, which is miserable, is dealt out of huge kettles into the

dinner pails provided by the steamship company. When it is distributed,

the stronger push and crowd, so that meals are anything but orderly

procedures. On the whole, the steerage of the modern ship ought to be

condemned as unfit for the transportation of human beings; and I do not

hesitate to say that the German companies, and they provide best for

their cabin passengers, are unjust if not dishonest towards the

steerage. Take for example, the second cabin which costs about twice as

much as the steerage and sometimes not twice so much; yet the second

cabin passenger on the _Kaiser Wilhelm II_ has six times as much deck

room, much better located and well protected against inclement weather.

Two to four sleep in one cabin, which is well and comfortably furnished;

while in the steerage from 200 to 400 sleep in one compartment on

bunks, one above the other, with little light and no comforts. In the

second cabin the food is excellent, is partaken of in a luxuriantly

appointed dining-room, is well cooked and well served; while in the

steerage the unsavoury rations are not served, but doled out, with less

courtesy than one would find in a charity soup kitchen.

The steerage ought to be and could be abolished by law. It is true that

the Italian and Polish peasant may not be accustomed to better things at

home and might not be happier in better surroundings nor know how to use

them; but it is a bad introduction to our life to treat him like an

animal when he is coming to us. He ought to be made to feel immediately,

that the standard of living in America is higher than it is abroad, and

that life on the higher plane begins on board of ship. Every cabin

passenger who has seen and smelt the steerage from afar, knows that it

is often indecent and inhuman; and I, who have lived in it, know that it

is both of these and cruel besides.

On the steamer _Noordam_, sailing from Rotterdam three years ago, a

Russian boy in the last stages of consumption was brought upon the sunny

deck out of the pestilential air of the steerage. I admit that to the

first cabin passengers it must have been a repulsive sight--this

emaciated, dirty, dying child; but to order a sailor to drive him

down-stairs, was a cruel act, which I resented. Not until after repeated

complaints was the child taken to the hospital and properly nursed. On

many ships, even drinking water is grudgingly given, and on the steamer

_Staatendam_, four years ago, we had literally to steal water for the

steerage from the second cabin, and that of course at night. On many

journeys, particularly on the _Fürst Bismark_, of the Hamburg American

line, five years ago, the bread was absolutely uneatable, and was thrown

into the water by the irate emigrants.

In providing better accommodations, the English steamship companies have

always led; and while the discipline on board of ship is always stricter

than on other lines, the care bestowed upon the emigrants is

correspondingly greater.

* * * * *

At last the passengers are stowed away, and into the excitement of the

hour of departure there comes a silent heaviness, as if the surgeon’s

knife were about to cut the arteries of some vital organ. Homesickness,

a disease scarcely known among the mobile Anglo-Saxons, is a real

presence in the steerage; for there are the men and women who have been

torn from the soil in which through many generations their lives were

rooted.

No one knows the sacred agony of that moment which fills and thrills

these simple minded folk who, for the first time in their lives face the

unknown perils of the sea. The greater the distance which divides the

ship from the fast fading dock, the nearer comes the little village,

with its dusty square, its plaster cast saints and its little mud huts.

From far away Russia a small pinched face looks out and a sweet voice

calls to the departing father, not to forget Leah and her six children,

who will wait for tidings from him, be they good or ill. From Poland in

gutteral speech comes a: “God be with you, Bratye (brother), strong oak

of our village forest and our dependence; the Virgin protect thee.”

The Slovak feels his Maryanka pressing her lips against his while she

sobs out her lamentation, and he, to keep up his courage, gives a

“strong pull and a long pull” at the bottle, out of which his white

native palenka gives him its last alcoholic greeting.

Silent are the usually vociferous Italians, whose glorious Mediterranean

is blotted out by the sombre gray of the Atlantic; they shall not soon

again see the full orbed moon shining upon the bay of Naples, sending

from heaven to earth a path of silver upon which the blessed saints go

up and down. In the silence of the moment there come to them the rattle

of carts and the clatter of hoofs, the soft voice of a serenade and then

the sweet scented silence of an Italian night. They all think, even if

they have never thought much before; for the moment is as solemn as

when the padre came with his censer and holy water, or when the acolytes

rang the bells, mechanically, on the way to some death-bed.

It is all solemn, in spite of the band which strikes the well-known

notes of “Lieb Vaterland, magst ruhig sein,” and makes merrier music

each moment to check the tears and to heal the newly made wounds. They

try to be brave now, struggling against homesickness and fear, until

their faces pale, and one by one they are driven down into the hold to

suffer the pangs of the damned in the throes of a complication of

agonies for which as yet, no pills or powders have brought soothing.

But when the sun shines upon the Atlantic, and dries the deck space

allotted to the steerage passengers, they will come out of the hold one

by one, wrapped in the company’s gray blankets; pitiable looking

objects, ill-kempt and ill-kept. Stretched upon the deck nearest the

steam pipes, they await the return of the life which seemed “clean gone”

out of them.--It is at this time that cabin passengers from their

spacious deck will look down upon them in pity and dismay, getting some

sport from throwing sweetmeats and pennies among the hopeless looking

mass, out of which we shall have to coin our future citizens, from among

whom will arise fathers and mothers of future generations.

This practice of looking down into the steerage holds all the pleasures

of a slumming expedition with none of its hazards of contamination; for

the barriers which keep the classes apart on a modern ocean liner are as

rigid as in the most stratified society, and nowhere else are they more

artificial or more obtrusive. A matter of twenty dollars lifts a man

into a cabin passenger or condemns him to the steerage; gives him the

chance to be clean, to breathe pure air, to sleep on spotless linen and

to be served courteously; or to be pushed into a dark hold where soap

and water are luxuries, where bread is heavy and soggy, meat without

savour and service without courtesy. The matter of twenty dollars makes

one man a menace to be examined every day, driven up and down slippery

stairs and exposed to the winds and waves; but makes of the other man a

pet, to be coddled, fed on delicacies, guarded against draughts, lifted

from deck to deck and nursed with gentle care.

The average steerage passenger is not envious. His position is part of

his lot in life; the ship is just like Russia, Austria, Poland or Italy.

The cabin passengers are the lords and ladies, the sailors and officers

are the police and the army, while the captain is the king or czar. So

they are merry when the sun shines and the porpoises roll, when far away

a sail shines white in the sunlight or the trailing smoke of a steamer

tells of other wanderers over the deep.

“Here, Slovaks, bestir yourselves; let’s sing the song of the ‘Little

red pocket-book’ or ‘The gardener’s wife who cried.’ ‘Too sad?’ you say?

Then let’s sing about the ‘Red beer and the white cakes.’” So they sing:

“Brothers, brothers, who’ll drink the beer,

Brothers, brothers, when we are not here?

Our children they will drink it then

When we are no more living men.

Beer, beer, in glass or can,

Always, always finds its man.”

Other Slavs from Southern mountains, sing their stirring war song:

“Out there, out there beyond the mountains,

Where tramps the foaming steed of war,

Old Jugo calls his sons afar;

To aid! To aid! in my old age

Defend me from the foeman’s rage.

“Out there, out there beyond the mountains

My children follow one and all,

Where Nikita your Prince doth call;

And steep anew in Turkish gore

The sword Czar Dushan flashed of yore,

Out there, out there beyond the mountains.”

If the merriment rises to the proper pitch, there will be dancing to the

jerky notes of an harmonica or accordion; for no emigrant ship ever

sailed without one of them on board. The Germans will have a waltz upon

a limited scale, while the Poles dance a mazurka, and the Magyar

attempts a wild czardas which invariably lands him against the railing;

for it needs steady feet as well as a steadier floor than the back of

this heaving, rolling monster.

Men and women from other corners of the Slav world will be reminded of

the spinning room or of some village tavern; and joining hands will sing

with appropriate motions this, not disagreeable song, to Katyushka or

Susanka, or whatever may be the name of this “Honey-mouth.”

“We are dancing, we are dancing,

Dancing twenty-two;

Mary dances in this Kolo,

Mary sweet and true;

What a honey mouth has Mary,

Oh! what joyful bliss!

Rather than all twenty-two

I would Mary kiss.”

On the Trail of the Immigrant · 第 1 / 20 段