operates the second elevator arm by means of a roller following the
contour of this cam. This arm, to which the lever is fastened, lowers
the second elevator to receive the line of matrices at the transfer
position and then raises them to the distributor box.
The seventh is the pot pump cam and operates the pump lever. There
is a roller on this lever resting against the face of the cam. This
lever forces the metal into the mold cell as the cam revolves to
the low portion. The lever is forced down by a strong spring. The
new style pot pump lever is connected to its shaft and has a lever
extending into the column. It is pulled downward by a stiff coil
spring.
The eighth is the pot cam, which acts on the pot lever, forcing the
mouth of the pot forward against the mold. There are two shoes on
this cam. The first or short shoe is to cause the face alignment; the
second or long shoe is to lock the pot firmly against the mold before
the slug is cast. A roller is carried in the pot lever and follows
the contour of this cam and is the medium through which the above
lockup is accomplished.
The ninth is the mold slide cam and driving gear. The right side of
this gear is channeled out, and carries the mold slide lever roller
which operates the mold slide to advance the mold disk to a position
in which the lugs of the matrices are held in the groove of the mold
for alignment. It also returns the mold disk after the line has been
cast, advances it again to ejecting position, and returns it after
the slug is ejected. This gear also carries the pot return cam, which
withdraws the pot from the mold after the cast. It also carries the
ejector cam which engages the pawl on the ejector lever and moves it
forward, ejecting the slug from the mold.
The tenth cam operates the delivery slide and transfer cam roller
arms and causes these two parts to return to normal position after
their respective movements. The delivery slide cam roller rotates on
the outer surface, while the transfer slide cam roller acts on the
inner surface. This cam also retracts the ejector lever after the
slug has been ejected. The automatic safety and stopping pawls are
attached to this cam. They are operated by the transfer slide and the
delivery slide rollers. This cam really consists of two parts in
one, the outer cam controlling the return of the delivery slide and
the inner one controlling the return of the transfer slide lever.
The cams are all fastened together by four long bolts extending from
cam No. 2 and ending at cam No. 9. They are all keyed to the main
shaft and held in place by a set screw under cam No. 7. The cams can
be shifted a little sidewise but should set against a collar on the
left side of the main shaft under cam No. 2. Cam No. 10 is held in
place by a key on the shaft and a set nut and is kept from working
toward the left by a locating piece fastened to the main shaft.
The cams should be kept clean to prevent undue wear. Under ordinary
conditions, the cams should be cleaned once each week. This may be
accomplished by locking the controlling lever out so the cams will
continue to rotate. Then hold a rag against the surface of the cam.
A small amount of a mixture of gasoline and kerosene on the rag will
help to cut all dirt and grit loose from the cams, and leave the
surface in good condition and reduce the wear. Cams allowed to run
without being cleaned will wear very rapidly and soon cause much
trouble and expense.
FIRST ELEVATOR SLIDE GUIDE
The first elevator slide guide contains the intermediate bar and pawl
(assembled), adjusting screws for the same, first elevator jaw duplex
rail operating blocks, and the elevator transfer slide releasing
lever.
The height of the intermediate bar and pawl is adjusted by the
two small screws that pass through the top and touch the bar. The
purpose of the bar and pawl is to push down any spacebands that may
not have dropped to normal position as the line is carried from
casting position to the transfer. If the pawl was set too high, the
spacebands would strike the second elevator bar, and wear the lower
rail.
The bar should be set so that when the second elevator is seated
at transfer position, the pawl, when raised to its highest point,
will be in line with the bottom of the second elevator bar. This
adjustment is made with the two screws that pass through the slide
guide and touch the intermediate bar.
It is also necessary for both ends of the intermediate bar to be the
same height. After adjusting the pawl, turn the machine until the
transfer slide finger has entered the channel; lay a six-inch scale
flat on the first elevator jaws in line with the bar, but clearing
the pawl. Raise the first elevator slide by hand until the scale
touches the bar. Adjust the bar horizontal with the scale by the same
two screws that pass through top of the slide guide.
DUPLEX RAIL OPERATING BLOCKS
The first elevator jaw duplex rail operating blocks are fastened to
the slide guide adjusting strip and have a limited adjustment, but
when they are worn so they will not operate the rail properly, they
should be renewed.
RELEASING LEVER
The releasing lever is for the purpose of preventing the transfer of
a line in case the second elevator does not descend or seat properly.
The adjusting screw in the side of the second elevator lever should
raise the left end of the releasing lever 1/32 of an inch above the
block on the transfer slide when the second elevator is seated in
transfer position.
TRANSFER SLIDE
The transfer slide gets its motion from the transfer lever to which
it is connected by means of a link.
The transfer lever gets its action from the split transfer cam lever
and roller, which are held against cam No. 10 by a spring in the
column.
The slide should be adjusted to allow 5-9/16 inches from the
intermediate channel to slide finger. (Allow one inch more on 36-em
machines). This adjustment should be made with the machine in normal
position. Loosen the two screws on the split lever, move the slide
finger 5-9/16 inches from the channel, and hold; then move the
roller against the cam and tighten the screws. This adjustment is
necessary so that a 30-em line, which measures 5 inches, will clear
the transfer slide finger 5/32 of an inch. The last matrix is carried
13/32 of an inch inside the first elevator jaws. There will be a
clearance of 5/32 of an inch from the first matrix and the transfer
slide finger when the machine is in transfer position. Be sure the
transfer finger is not bent when measuring this distance.
The cut in the slide finger should be flush with the left end of
the second elevator bar plate, when it has transferred the line to
the second elevator. This adjustment is made by the screw in the
automatic safety pawl, which comes in contact with the buffer, on cam
No. 10.
With the machine in transfer position, the cam lever roller is
against the buffer in cam No. 10. The adjusting screw in the
automatic safety pawl, being against the inner end of buffer,
regulates the distance between the cut in the finger and second
elevator bar plate. This adjustment, when properly made, insures the
line being moved from the first to the second elevator. Turning the
adjusting screw to the right increases the distance between the slide
finger and the bar plate. Turning to the left decreases it.
The horizontal screw in the transfer slide should bank against the
buffer in the spaceband lever to allow ⅛ of an inch between the cut
in the slide finger and the spaceband lever pawl when the slide
finger and spaceband lever pawl are at their closest point during
transfer.
After the line has been transferred to the second elevator the
spacebands, not having combinations, remain in the transfer channels
and must be moved under the spaceband lever pawl so they can be
returned to spaceband box. When the transfer cam lever roller is at
the lowest part of cam No. 10, the adjusting screw in transfer slide,
coming in contact with the buffer in the spaceband lever, regulates
the distance between the cut in the slide finger and the bottom of
the slot in the spaceband lever pawl.
SPACEBAND LEVER
The spaceband lever gets its motion from the transfer lever, through
a turnbuckle which connects the transfer lever and the spaceband
lever. The purpose of this form of coupling, so threaded that when
connecting the two levers it may be turned to regulate the length
of the connected parts, is to adjust the spaceband lever so the
spaceband lever pawl will pass the highest point of the spaceband
box rails, properly bringing the spacebands into the box.
Before making the spaceband lever adjustment, make sure that the
transfer slide finger is properly adjusted. Then place the machine in
normal position.
Adjust the turnbuckle so the hook of the pawl passes to the right of
the highest point of the spaceband box rails not more than 1/16 of an
inch. If there is too much space between the end of the pawl and the
latch on the spaceband box, which is used as a lock, when recasting
30 ems the slide finger would move to the right against the line and
force the matrix from the inner end of the first elevator before the
pawl would come in contact with the latch. If the slide adjustments
are properly made, the turning of the turnbuckle will have no effect
in the adjustment of the slide finger.
SPACEBAND LEVER PAWL
The spaceband pawl is fastened to the spaceband lever by a pivot pin
and held in place by a bushing, which fits over the pin. The screw
which clamps the bushing to the pin extends downward through the top
of the lever. The pawl pulls the spacebands back into the box after
the transfer. The pawl should ride freely in the transfer channel,
its bearing being a pin screwed into the back side of the pawl. This
pin rides on the top of the transfer channel. The sidewise adjustment
of the pawl is made by loosening the screw in the top of the transfer
lever and allowing the machine to turn over for a few lines, the
pawl thus seating itself. The spaceband pawl is held down on the
transfer channel by a small spring. The tension of this spring should
be strong enough to hold the spacebands from slipping from under the
pawl.
MOLD SLIDE
The mold slide, which carries the mold disk and molds, moves in a
slideway at the right of the metal pot and gets its action from cam
No. 9, and the mold cam lever on which are assembled two rollers.
One roller is fastened to the lever by a screw and a washer, and is
seated in a depression in the rear end of the mold slide connecting
the mold slide with cam No. 9. The other roller has as its bearing
an adjustable eccentric pin fastened to the mold cam lever, and
follows the contour of the cam in the right side of cam No. 9.
When a line of matrices is in position in front of the mold, the
mold slide advances so that the lugs of the matrices will enter
the aligning grooves of the mold. This position is held until the
spacebands are driven up for justification and the line is raised
for alignment. The slide then comes forward a second time for final
lockup just as the metal pot locks against the back of the mold.
When the mold slide comes forward the first time there should be .010
of an inch space between the mold and the vise jaws or the line. This
space between the mold and the jaws is regulated by the eccentric pin
in the mold cam lever roller, and allows the proper justification and
alignment of the matrices before the final lockup.
During the alignment and during the first justification, the matrices
must be perfectly free, so that they may readjust themselves sidewise
in the line. Hence the importance of preventing the mold from
pressing forward against the matrices and spacebands at its first
movement.
If the slide advances too far forward the aligning groove of the
mold would engage the lugs of the matrices before the first elevator
jaws were seated properly on the vise cap, shearing the lugs of the
matrices. Or if the mold was forced to lockup tight against the line,
it would prevent justifying properly, causing hair lines to show
between the matrices or a squirt on the left-hand end. If there is
too much space between the mold and the jaws, when the first elevator
raises for alignment, the lugs of the matrices not being in the
aligning groove, would permit the line of matrices to raise to the
upper aligning groove of the mold, causing the line of matrices to
be cast on the raised position; or if the aligning groove did not
advance close to hold the lugs, there would be a small squirt.
The .010 of an inch adjustment also affects the lockup of the slide
at ejecting position. If there is a trifle more space between the
mold and the line than .010 of an inch, the mold will not seat
against the banking blocks at ejecting point. This will sometimes
allow the slug to twist slightly, causing it to be trimmed crooked.
To test this adjustment: Turn the casting mechanism until the first
elevator jaws are resting on the vise cap; place a pig of metal under
the head of the slide and on top of the vise automatic stop rod;
fold a piece of newspaper three thicknesses, or proof paper until it
measures about .010 of an inch; close the vise jaws; place the paper
between the mold and the vise jaws; turn the machine by hand until
the metal pot is just ready to move forward; pull up on the paper,
which should bind a trifle as it is being withdrawn. If the paper
does not bind or binds too tight it would show that the slide is out
of adjustment.
To make the slide adjustment, place the paper between the jaws and
the mold as in the test. Change the position of the mold slide by
moving the eccentric pin in the mold cam lever roller so that the
paper can be withdrawn, binding just a trifle. Moving the handle
forces the mold slide either forward or backward, as desired.
The mold slide moves in the slideway on a gib. There should be .007
of an inch play between the mold slide and the gib because the mold
slide will expand from the heat of the metal pot, but by having the
above mentioned play, it will not bind, and will slide in and out
freely.
This adjustment is made by the two square head screws under the gib
on which the slide moves. There is no gib on the late model machines,
and consequently no adjustment for the slideway.
As the mold slide advances, it slides up on the locking stud blocks
on the vise, raising the slide approximately .007 of an inch. The
screw beneath the mold disk guide on the mold gear arm should have a
little clearance above it when the slide is forward on the locking
stud blocks. There should be play enough to slip a sheet of paper
between the screw and the guide when the mold disk is forward on the
locking studs.
To remove a mold slide: Lower the vise to second position, disconnect
the mold slide, and take out the ejector lever link. Pull forward on
the slide and disk, assembled, and lift out.
MOLD DISK LOCKING STUDS AND BLOCKS
After the mold disk makes the one-quarter and three-quarter
revolutions, the mold slide advances and the mold disk locking studs
enter the locking stud blocks which are on the vise. This keeps the
disk in position until the slug has been cast or ejected, as the case
may be.
On old style machines the bushings are in the disk, and the studs are
in the blocks. On all the new machines the studs are in the disk and
each bushing and block is made in one piece. The blocks are held to
the vise by the screws and dowel pins that pass through the front of
the vise and screw into the blocks. The left-hand stud block on the
newer models is loose sidewise, which permits the studs to enter the
stud blocks with the minimum amount of wear to the parts.
The stud blocks can be renewed by taking the old ones off one at a
time and using the remaining block as a guide.
The studs should be kept lubricated with a little graphite and
grease. Too much will collect on the mold and get to the matrices.
EJECTOR SLIDE
The ejector slide is connected to the ejector lever, by means of
a link, and is located in the channel cut in the side of the mold
slide. It is operated by the ejector cam, which comes in contact with
the ejector lever pawl. The cam is held tight to cam No. 9 by means
of a screw and dowel pin. After the ejector lever is brought forward,
it is pushed back into position by cam No. 10 coming in contact with
a projection on the ejector lever. There is a buffer spring placed
on the ejector slide which prevents the slide falling forward with a
sudden jerk after the ejector lever has passed its center of gravity
and the slug has passed the resistance of the trimming knives. The
spring works on a rod which banks against the ejector blade guide. If
this spring is not functioning, the slug will be thrown out on the
floor.
EJECTOR BLADE
The blade is connected to the ejector slide by the pins that pass
through the holes in the blade, the pins being operated by the
springs, throw-out cam, and lever. The blade pushes the slug out of
the mold, between the trimming knives, into the chase channel.
When the ejector blade advances to the ejecting position the front
end should come flush with the bracket on the chase or galley. If
it advanced beyond, the slug would be pushed out of the galley to
the floor. If it does not advance flush, the slug not being pushed
all the way out, would be turned to the right by the slug lever. The
adjustment is made with the screw that passes through the ejector
lever pawl.
If the blade advances beyond the bracket, turn in the pawl screw and
raise the pawl. The higher the pawl is raised, the less distance the
slug advances.
On machines that have the inclined galley, adjust blade to come flush
with the bevel on the knife block liner.
EJECTOR GUIDE BLOCK
The outer end of the ejector blade is held in place and guided by the
ejector guide block which sets directly back of the flange of the
mold disk, and is held by two machine screws passing through each
end of the block into the mold slide. This guide holds the blade in
position so it will pass squarely through the mold. It also helps the
buffer spring to steady the forward motion of the ejector. The point
of contact of the ejector block with the ejector blade is made of
brass and is held against the blade by spring tension.
The ejector blade guide should be kept free from oil, dirt, and metal
shavings, as these impair the free working of the guide. The brass
strip should be replaced when worn. Loose screws or a worn brass
strip will cause slugs to be thrown out on the floor.
TO CHANGE AN EJECTOR BLADE
Push in on the starting and stopping lever; let the vise down to
first position; back the machine by pushing back on cam No. 1 until
the second elevator falls on the safety hook; turn the mold disk
until the slot is in front of the blade; push the ejector lever
forward; remove the blade by reaching the right-hand in alongside
the mold slide and grasp the releasing lever and draw it towards the
front. Change the blade for the size wanted, and then let machine
come to normal position. Be careful not to get a blade wider than
the slug to be cast or there is danger of damaging the liners, or
the mold will be damaged. A good plan is always to check up on the
ejector blade after changing the liners.
UNIVERSAL EJECTOR
The universal ejector consists of a series of blades, 5-points in
thickness, in 2-em units; as a rule the first, or lower blade is a
4-em, and then in 2-em units up to 30-ems pica. These unit blades
move between plates, which brace them firmly on both sides, making
them rigid and preventing the blade from bending.
The back end of the unit blades are fastened to ejector blade links
that move in grooves cut lengthwise of the slide. There is a link for
each unit blade and they terminate at the back end of the mold slide
in front of a groove milled across the slide. A movable controller
bar works in a groove in the ejector slide, moving up or down in the
groove, back of a lug on each of the blade links. When the ejector
lever forces the ejector slide forward, the controller bar in the
groove of the slide comes against the lugs of the ejector links
forcing the blades forward through the mold.
The blades are withdrawn by a lug on the ejector slide coming in
contact with the lugs on the links.
When desiring to change the length of the blade to be used, move the
ejector blade controlling lever handle up or down. This handle is
situated below the starting and stopping lever and is connected to
the controller bar by a screw link. Also connected to this handle is
a pica gauge which operates in a groove in the delivery channel.
Moving the handle up or down engages less or more blades, the length
being indicated on the pica gauge in the delivery channel.
To remove the mold slide on machines which have a universal ejector,
lower the vise to second position, set the ejector at 10 or 12 ems,
take out the ejector blade controller link which screws into the
controller link lift. This will permit the controller bar to drop
out. Disconnect the mold slide and take out the ejector lever link.
If the machine is connected up with the water for cooling the molds,
it will be necessary to disconnect the hose before taking out the
slide.
REMOVING A STUCK SLUG
When there is a slug stuck in the mold, allow the machine to come
to normal by backing the machine sufficiently to allow the ejector
lever pawl to be raised, draw back on the ejector lever until the
pawl clears the ejector cam. Pull out the starting lever allowing the
machine to come to normal. Open the vise and remove the slug from the
mold by loosening the mold cap screws. Do not drive a stuck slug out
with the ejector blade.
MOLD KNIFE
The mold or back knife trims the base of the slug and is fastened to
the mold slide arm, back of the mold disk. It is placed at an angle
of about 45 degrees and is held by two washers and two round-head
screws which pass through the slotted holes of the knife. It is also
held by two adjusting screws that set against the base so that the
knife will set squarely and press lightly against the mold as the
disk is turned from casting to the ejecting position. As the mold
passes in front of the knife, the slug should be trimmed type-high,
which is .918 of an inch.
The front of the mold disk, when turning, must be bearing against the
mold disk guide so as to keep the mold against the knife while the
slug is being trimmed. If the mold disk guide does not set snugly
against the disk, the disk will spring away from the knife and the
slug will be higher on one end than the other. The guide is adjusted
by loosening the screw which holds it to the mold slide and moving it
snugly against the mold disk. Do not set the guide tight enough to
bind and prevent the free turning of the disk.
It sometimes happens that a disk will bind at one or more places as
it is being turned. This is due to the disk becoming warped from
heat or some other cause. If it is only a slight bind it will not
interfere with the adjustment.
Whenever it is necessary to put on a new or resharpened mold knife,
or to adjust it, be sure the mold disk guide is bearing against the
rim of the mold disk. It is always better to remove the guide and
clean it as it must be perfectly clean when it seats against the
disk. Always have the knife away from the mold when seating the
guide. Tighten the hexagon head screw slightly and then tap the guide
until a slight pressure against the disk is secured. Turn the disk
by hand until an even pressure has been secured and then tighten the
hexagon head nut tight.
Place the mold knife on the knife seat; be sure the seat is clean,
for the least particle of dirt or metal will make it more difficult
to make the adjustment. Also the bottom of the mold must be perfectly
clean and free from all metal. Set the knife square with, but not
quite touching the mold. Tighten down on the two round-head screws,
then adjust with the two screws under the bottom of knife so that
mold will turn without binding. The left-hand end of the knife trims
the ends of the slugs; the center of the knife trims the center of
the slugs. Avoid excessive pressure on either side as the knife is so
shaped that the sharp edge should just touch the mold.