Transcriber’s Note
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LINOTYPE MECHANISM
By ALVIN G. SWANK and
RAYMOND MEANS
Published by
SWANK AND MEANS
729 N. Bosart Ave.
Indianapolis, Indiana
COPYRIGHTED 1924
PRINTED IN U. S. A.
_Preface_
Changes and improvements on the Linotype have been frequent in the
past, and will probably continue to be so in the future. For this
reason students, operators, machinists, and owners should keep
themselves posted on all matters pertaining to the Linotype. The only
way this can be accomplished is by reading, studying, and observing.
All books, pamphlets, or trade journals dealing with printing should
be carefully read, and the articles pertaining to improvements on
typesetting machinery should be carefully studied. Pamphlets or trade
journals will either be discarded or lost; whereas a book will be
placed on the desk, bench, or in the pocket of the one who desires to
be well informed of things dealing with the machine. Frequent reading
or reference will refresh the memory on minor points forgotten or
overlooked.
This book has been produced as an endeavor to furnish a much-needed
text or reference book for the aid of the Linotype student, the user,
and the experienced worker. Simple terms, which will enable the
student to grasp the fundamentals quickly, have been used throughout
the book, but when the name of a part is necessary, the catalog name
is used. No illustrations are used, as the book is intended for use
where the actual machine is available for study, and the parts may be
seen. The main parts of the machine are listed with a description of
their action and function. Mechanical troubles that are common to the
Linotype are mentioned, together with helpful suggestions for their
remedy. All adjustments necessary to the proper care of the machine
are listed. The user of Linotypes will find helpful hints as to the
care and adjustments of the machines.
In the schools using machines, this book will fill a long-felt want.
It is the first attempt to write a text book of this nature that can
be used in lesson form. The class schedule will lead the student to
a systematic study of the machine. The text matter is so arranged
that the student is led in a natural way through the things he should
know first. With the schedule arrangement the instructor is enabled
to arrange his mechanism classes at any hour or as many hours as he
desires.
THE KEYBOARD
The linotype keyboard is power driven and mechanically operated, the
operator merely touching the keybutton lightly to get a matrix. The
keyboard and escapement mechanism consists of ninety-one mechanical
units, or series of levers, escapements, and cams—one series for each
key on the keyboard.
The keyboard consists of the frame; the keylevers, extending through
the slots to the back of the keyboard frame; the keylever fulcrum
rods, which are the pivot rods for the keylevers; the keybars, that
groove into the rear end of the keylevers; the keybar banking bar,
(fastened to the right- and left-hand keyboard posts), holding the
keybars in place; and the keyboard locking bar. The various parts
of the keyboard are held in their respective places by the keyboard
frame.
Mounted on the top, at the rear of the keyboard, are the two cam yoke
frames. The keyboard cam yoke frames contain the cams and the cam
yokes, assembled; the cam yoke triggers; the cam stop strips; the
hinge rods; the keyboard cam rubber roll shafts, with the pulleys or
the gears and friction springs; and the rubber rolls, assembled. The
frames are fastened to the keyboard posts by a screw at each end of
the frame, which extends through the rubber roll shaft brackets. Both
the frames are equipped with cover pans.
The keyboard action for releasing a matrix from the magazine is as
follows: When the keybutton is depressed it lowers the outer end of
the keylever, raising the back end. The keylever raises the keybar.
The keybar raises the lower end of the trigger, causing the upper end
to tilt. This allows the free end of the cam yoke to drop, causing
the cam to engage the revolving rubber roll. The cam is revolved by
the rubber roll, and as it reaches the high point it raises the free
end of the cam yoke. This end of the cam yoke engages the keyrod and
causes it to be raised. The keyrod operates the escapement mechanism
in the magazine and releases the matrix.
KEYBOARD PARTS
The keylevers extend through slots in the keyboard frame and are
pivoted near their center by the fulcrum rods. The front end of the
keylevers carry the keybuttons and the back ends fit into notches in
the keybars.
The keybars are held in place on the back of the keyboard by the
banking bar and the upper and lower keybar guides. The keybars have
notches on the upper end into which the triggers set. Also there are
notches into which the keylevers extend. These notches are cut at
different points on each six keybars, to correspond with the point at
which the keylever protrudes through the frame.
On the late model machines the keybars are made with notches so they
will fit in any alternate position, each bar having three notches,
any one of which will register with the keylever. In removing the
bars for cleaning, always take them off in groups of six and keep
them in order so that no difficulty will be experienced in replacing
them. It is always better to replace each bar in its original place
after having them off.
The keyboard locking bar extends across the back of the keyboard,
just above a shoulder on the keybars. When this bar is forced down it
prevents the keybar from being raised, thus locking the keyboard.
KEYBOARD CAMS AND PARTS
The keyboard cams are small, brass, non-circular or eccentric pieces
and are used to raise the cam yokes to operate the keyrods. The cams
are pivoted and held in place in cam yokes. The outer end of the cam
yokes are pivoted to the frame, while the inner ends are left free
to move up or down in slots in the frame, directly underneath the
keyrods.
When the cams are setting at normal, the free end of the yokes are
supported by the pivoted triggers, which set directly beneath the
yokes. When a trigger is moved by the keybar, it allows the free end
of the yoke to drop, carrying the cam against the revolving rubber
roll. The low part of the cam has small teeth cut in it, so when it
drops on the revolving rubber roll, it is caused to turn. When the
high part of the revolving cam is on the rubber roll, the free end of
the cam yoke is raised to its highest point, raising the keyrod.
There are ninety-one cams and yokes in a keyboard. In order to get
the cams in the smallest possible space, forty-five of them are
located in the front frame, and forty-six in the back frame. The
cam on the right-hand end of the back row is used to operate the
spaceband lever.
A stop strip is fastened by means of six screws to each cam frame in
such a manner that the small cross pins in the revolving cams come
in contact with small pins which extend downward, stopping the cams
after their revolution and holding them in normal position. The front
strip has forty-five teeth and the rear strip has forty-six teeth;
therefore they are not interchangeable. The strip should be located
so the teeth do not bind the sides of the cams.
The top row of keys on the keyboard operate the cams in the back
frame, the keys in the second row operate the cams in the front
frame, the third in the back, etc., alternating for each row, so when
tracing keyboard troubles it is known in which frame an offending cam
will be found.
Several types of cam yokes have been manufactured for the various
models of machines. Some are made of brass, others are stamped out
of steel, while still another kind is milled out of a solid piece of
steel. Different methods of fastening the pivoted end of the yoke
have also been used. The older models were held by a pivot wire
which ran through the yoke. The later models, however, have spring
bars which set just above the pivoted end of the yoke, the yoke
being hooked on the hinge rod and held down by a spring and plunger
directly above the yoke, in the bar. This spring and plunger takes
the strain off the yoke and keyrod when in an unusually heavy pull,
and prevents damage to the rubber rolls.
On the top of the spring bar is an adjusting screw bushing through
which the plunger projects. This plunger is forced against the top
of the cam yoke by a spring. As the free end of the cam yoke raises,
the spring must be strong enough to hold the pivoted end of the yoke
from raising more than enough to give the full stroke of the keyrod.
If something prevents the free movement of the escapement, the strain
would come to the pivoted end of the yoke, forcing the plunger up,
thus releasing the keyrod, cam, or rubber roll of undue strain.
If this spring becomes weak, it will allow the pivoted end of the
yoke to raise too high, thus lessening the up stroke of the keyrod.
This shortened stroke of the keyrod does not permit the full stroke
operation of the escapement, and does not allow the matrix to drop.
A weak spring will sometimes cause the matrix to drop slowly, due
to the lug of the matrix binding on the lower pawl. By using the
adjusting bushing this trouble can be remedied. Be careful in
adjusting the spring, because too much tension will cause the cam to
cut the rubber roll.
On some models the spaceband cam is of a different shape or larger
than the other cams. This is done to accomplish the timing of the
dropping of the spacebands.
To remove a single cam from the frame, shut off the power of the
machine, take off the cover pans, touch the keybutton of the desired
cam, draw out the pivot wire on old models or release the latch and
tilt the spring bar on new models, turn the rubber rolls by hand
until the end of the cam yoke raises, then lift the yoke and cam out.
KEYBOARD RUBBER ROLLS
The rubber rolls are held on shafts which extend through the cam
frame. The right end of the shafts run in bushings which are held
in the cam frame by a screw extending through the cam frame bracket
into the shaft bushing. Two kinds of rubber rolls may be obtained:
corrugated and ground. The rolls must be kept free from oil at all
times. About once each month they should be removed and washed with
soap and water to remove all oil, and freshen the rubber. The rubber
roll may be livened up by the use of course sandpaper, rubbing from
end to end and turning the roll so it does not become flat. The roll
should be washed after using the sandpaper to remove the small
particles of rubber that may be adhering to the surface.
If the rubber rolls become worn until they are grooved where the cams
operate on them, or if they become hard with long use, they should
be replaced with new rubber. Good, live rubber rolls have much to do
with quick, even response of the matrices.
A rubber roll that is in good shape with the exception of a groove
or two, can be used by cutting out the worn parts and placing in a
good piece of another roll and fitting it to the shaft. Save parts of
old rubber rolls for this purpose. They at least may be valuable for
emergency patching, until a new roll can be ordered from the factory.
The rubber roll shafts are driven by friction, so that if anything
binds unduly the shaft will stop, preventing damage to the rubber.
To replace a rubber roll, remove the old roll, polish the shaft,
using care to clean thoroughly. A new roll must fit tightly and if
the shaft is not clean and smooth, it will be hard to force the new
roll on. Place the shaft in an upright position, start the end of the
roll through the pulley end of the shaft. Place your thumb or hand
over the other end of the roll to hold in the air and push down on
the roll until it is in position.
On the later models the shaft carries a collar, pin, and oil collar
on each end. This assembly must be removed on one end before the roll
can be removed. The collar is held to the shaft by a taper pin and
the oil collar forced over the top of the pin and collar. This oil
collar must be pried off before the pin can be driven out.
KEYBOARD TROUBLES
Many of the mechanical troubles will be found in the keyboard, such
as continuous response or non-response of matrices.
The keylevers sometimes get gummy or sprung to one side and bind on
the frame, causing a continuous response of matrices. Another cause
for continuous response may often be traced to some foreign substance
such as metal shavings or dirt getting between the keylever and the
frame.
A large percentage of keyboard troubles can be traced to the keybars.
Most continuous response trouble is due to dirty or sticking keybars.
These bars have several points of contact with other parts, and
frequently a very small particle of dirt or dust will prevent the
proper return of the keybar after being raised. This will hold the
trigger out from under the cam yoke, which will continue to revolve
and cause more than one matrix to drop. This trouble can usually be
remedied by blowing out all dust from around the keybars and then
washing them with gasoline, using a squirt can or brush to apply the
gasoline. Before applying the gasoline, it is best to place a pan or
cloth beneath the keybars to catch the surplus gasoline.
Be very careful not to get any gasoline on the cams or rubber rolls,
as it will cut the lubrication on the yoke pivot and soften the
rubber roll. After washing the bars, blow the surplus gasoline off
with an air hose or bellows. Keep the air from the keyboard cams as
much as possible, as it has a tendency to dry the oil on the yoke
pivot pins, causing slow moving cams.
Sometimes the trouble is above the keybar banking bar. In this case
it will be necessary to remove the back cam frame to clean the bars
above the banking bar.
Should the keyboard locking bar become loose it may drop down a
trifle and, preventing free action of the keybars, make the keyboard
touch heavy.
In addition to the continuous response caused by the keylever or
keybar, sometimes a dirty and sticking trigger or the trigger hinge
rod being bent will cause this trouble. If one of the pins in the
stop strip or the cam becomes worn or broken, the cam will continue
to revolve.
Some of the common troubles of non-response might be caused by the
free end of the cam yoke being dirty or gummy, a rusty, gummy, or
bent cam yoke hinge rod, not allowing the cam to drop. A dry cam
pivot will often prevent the cam from turning. A hard or oily rubber
roll will not cause the cam to turn, especially on a cold morning.
A tooth on the stop strip being bent sideways might bind the cam.
Something binding the rubber roll, not allowing it to revolve,
stops all cam response. A dry cam pivot or a sluggish cam will cause
transposition of letters.
To locate the cause of a non-response, first observe if the keyrod is
moving. If it is, the trouble will probably be found in the magazine
or magazine escapement. If the keyrod does not raise, look for the
trouble in the keyboard.
Do not take the keyboard apart every time a few matrices fail to
respond correctly. It is much quicker to correct the trouble with the
individual parts that may be bothering. Always locate the cause of
the trouble before attempting to correct it.
KEYBOARD LAYOUT
There are two standard layouts in common use. The one most commonly
used, especially in commercial shops, has the small capital layout
shown on the keybuttons. The fractions run as side sorts when this
layout is used. In the other standard layout the fractions are run
in the keyboard. This is frequently used on newspapers for setting
markets, stock reports, and tables, where a great number of fractions
are used.
There are a variety of different keyboard layouts for different
classes of work, but no great variation from the standard layout is
advisable.
TO REMOVE THE KEYBOARD CAM FRAMES
Be sure the keyrods are connected to the verges on the models 1,
2, 3, 4, or 5. On the models 1, 2, or 3 the keyboard should not be
locked with the locking bar.
Take off the cover pans and the cover tray, remove the two screws
that extend through the rubber roll shaft bracket, pull the frame off
dowel pins.
CLEANING THE KEYBOARD CAMS
Whenever the keyboard cams become dirty and several of them are
causing trouble, the entire set should be removed from the frame
and cleaned. Do not take the entire set off, however, every time a
cam fails to act. If there are but a few cams bothering, it is much
quicker to take out these individual cams and clean them.
The entire set of cams will usually need cleaning and oiling every
three or four months in the average shop. Due to some particular shop
surroundings, this time often varies.
To clean the cams, remove the keyboard cam frames from the machine;
take out the rubber rolls, assembled; release the pivot end of the
cam yokes and remove the cams. The sides of the cam yokes at each end
and the outer surface of the cam should be thoroughly cleaned. Dry
the cam by wiping with a lintless rag and blowing with an air hose or
bellows. The triggers should then be removed and cleaned. While the
cams and triggers are out of the frame, the frame should be washed
clean. Gasoline or denatured alcohol should be used for washing and
cleaning the various parts. A jeweler’s brush will be found useful in
cleaning the various parts.
Before replacing the triggers, polish them with graphite and string
them on a pivot wire to make sure that no dirt nor grit has gotten
into the pivot holes during the cleaning.
Clean the rubber rolls before replacing them.
Before replacing the cams in the frame the pivots should be oiled.
Use only a good grade of clock or watch oil and put a small drop on
the pivot. A broomstraw or ordinary pen will be found convenient for
applying the oil. Be sure to wipe off all surplus oil to prevent it
being transferred to the rubber rolls.
NOTE—Before replacing the frames in position on the machine, see
that the bracket screws that extend into the frame at each end are
loose. If the screws draw the brackets too tight, difficulty will
be experienced in seating the brackets to the dowels on the posts.
Be sure to lock the keyboard cam yoke triggers by running a wire
through the upper holes in the triggers. This is done so the triggers
will enter the slots in the keybars. See that all cams are in normal
position. This is necessary so the cam yokes will pass under the
lower end of the keyrods.
TO TAKE A KEYBOARD APART
Whenever it is necessary to take the keyboard apart to clean, it
should be removed from the machine in the following manner: Remove
the keyboard cam frames. Remove the assembling elevator lever.
Procure a strip of wood furniture fifteen inches long, which is the
proper length to just pass inside of the frame posts, fasten a strong
cord to each end of the wood strip, take off the keyboard locking
bar, place the strip of wood along the back of the keybars, bring the
string inside of the side posts to the front of the keyboard. Draw
the two ends of the string tight, so that the strip can not move,
and fasten it to the keylevers. Take out the two keyboard side plate
bracket screws (on each side at the rear of the keyboard frame). Take
out the four keyboard front plate screws. Remove the two screws which
hold the keybar banking bar to the posts and pull the bar off the
dowel pins. Pull the frame toward the front of the machine and lift
it out. Place the frame on a bench or table in a slightly inclined
position with the rear end the higher. Take out the lower row of
keylevers by removing the fulcrum rod. Take off the keybars, keeping
them in their regular order. Take out the remaining keylevers by
removing the fulcrum rods. Wash the keylevers in denatured alcohol
or gasoline, brushing vigorously with a jeweler’s brush the parts
that come in contact with the frame. If there is any corrosion left,
polish the levers with metal polish; wipe them dry with a clean rag.
The keybars should be cleaned in a like manner, but rub each side of
each keybar on a graphite board instead of using metal polish. Wash
the frame of the keyboard thoroughly, and wipe dry. If an air hose is
available, blow all the parts dry with the air.
When reassembling the keyboard, work upward. Place the lower row
of keylevers in first, run the fulcrum rod through the holes; then
assemble the next rows, using the same procedure for each row. This
method makes it easy to assemble the keylevers.
After the board has been assembled, test out each key to see that it
is working freely, before replacing the strip of wood.
When replacing the banking bar the slot in the keybars must fit
over the bar; raise up on all the keybars with the plate extending
underneath them until the banking bar dowel pins fit into the dowel
pin holes.
It is usually necessary to clean the entire keyboard only once or
twice a year unless the shop conditions around the machine are very
dirty.
KEYRODS
The keyrods rest just above the free end of the keyboard cam
yokes and extend upward to the escapement mechanism. They are the
connection between the escapements and the keyboard cams. On the
models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the keyrods are numbered from 1 to 90;
the spaceband being a short rod, it is not necessary for it to be
numbered. They are held in place by two guides. The lower guide
is between the cam frames. On models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the upper
guide is directly under the magazine at the front. The object of the
upper guide is to hold the keyrods in place when locking them on the
verges, as they should rest squarely on the verges.
On the model 1 the upper guides are adjustable sidewise by changing
the position of the brass lug on the right side of the magazine in
which the tongue of the guide fits. In making this adjustment use the
lower case “p” as a guide. On the models 3 and 5 there is a screw
bushing in the right-hand side of the intermediate bracket for the
adjustment of the keyrod upper guide.
When replacing keyrods in the guides, start at the left-hand side
with the first slot in the bottom guide, but leave the first slot
open in the top guide. This guide slot is for an extra keyrod for use
in the special double “e” attachment which may be applied.
The keyrods vary in length on the different models. On models 8, 14,
14-s-k, 18, 19, 9, and K the keyrods are very short and are used to
operate a curved lever known as the escapement lever, which in turn
operates the escapement.
On models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, the keyrod is pulled back to its proper
position by the keyrod spring. The action of this spring in pulling
the keyrod to position stresses the verge spring and pulls the
escapement into normal, allowing the rear pawl to release the matrix
so it can slide into position to be caught and held by the front
pawl.
On models K, 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, 19, and 9 the keyrod is returned
to position by the weight of the escapement lever, and by its own
weight, the verge spring pulling the escapement back into position.
On the later model 1 the keyrods have a groove near the upper ends
and a supporting rail attached to the upper guide plate which keeps
them from dropping when they are disconnected from the verges.
On the model 5 this supporting rail is near the bottom end of the
keyrods, just above the keyrod springs, and is connected to a short
handle at the right end above the keyboard. The keyrods can be
disconnected from the verges only when the handle is lifted.
AUXILIARY KEYRODS
On models 14 and 19 there is an auxiliary magazine which has 28
channels. There are 28 short keyrods assembled the same as on a model
5. These keyrods are operated by an auxiliary keyboard. There is a
supporting rail at the upper end of these keyrods, connected with a
handle at the right side of the auxiliary bracket. The keyrods can
only be disconnected from the verges when the handle is lifted. These
keyrods are disconnected the same as on a model 5 machine.
MODEL FOURTEEN SINGLE KEYBOARD
On the new model 14, known as model 14 single keyboard, there are
34 channels and short keyrods on the auxiliary instead of 28. These
keyrods are operated from the regular keyboard. There is a lug
pressed in the back of the keyrods. These lugs are staggered on the
various keyrods and come in contact with a series of pivoted levers
in a box containing 34 of these levers, fastened at the back of the
keyrods of the main part of the machine.
The main keyrods, from the figure 1 up to and including the caps (34
in all), have a lug pressed into the back side of them. These lugs
are also staggered on the keyrods so they can be brought into contact
with the fulcrumed levers in the box. This box is known as a bail
box.
The upper keyrod guide slots are made longer for these keyrods
to slide back or forth, actuated by a hand lever that is placed
below the assembler entrance and resting on the delivery slideway.
The auxiliary is brought into operation by shoving back on this
lever, which brings the keyrods and lugs in contact with the bail
box levers, and they in turn operate the keyrods of the auxiliary
whenever a key is touched.
MAGAZINES AND ESCAPEMENTS
ESCAPEMENT MECHANISM
The escapement mechanism of models 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 machines
consists of two pawls, a verge, and a verge spring for each character
in the magazine. The verge is hinged on a pivot rod. The lower end
of the pawls are seated in the verge, and the upper end projects
through the under side of the magazine and engages the lower lugs
of the matrices. When the escapement is at its normal position, the
lower or front pawl extends up into the magazine and holds the column
of matrices in the channel. The end of the upper pawl is flush with
the bottom of the channel groove. The verge and pawls are held in
this position by the keyrod, which hooks onto the verge. This keyrod
is held down by its own weight and a spring near its lower end. The
verge spring, which sets directly back of and against the verge, has
its tension upward on the verge. When the key is touched and the cam
yoke raises the keyrod, it releases the verge, which is pulled upward
by the verge spring. This action lowers the front pawl and raises
the back pawl, releasing the front matrix. The back pawl detains
the other matrices, holding them in the channel until the verge is
restored to normal. The keyrod spring pulls the keyrod down. The
verge, being hooked to the keyrod is pulled down also. This brings
the front pawl up and the back pawl down, letting the matrix slide to
position ready for the next escapement. This verge action is the same
on all single magazine models.
Each magazine of a model 1, 2, or 3 machine carries the escapement
assembly on the bottom, at the front, directly above the keyrod upper
guide.
On a model 5 the verge escapement is fastened by means of two screws
and two dowel pins to the intermediate bracket of the machine. To
remove: Take off the magazine and then raise the keyrods with the
hand lever at the right of the keyrods. This will leave the keyrods
free to be pushed back from the verges, by withdrawing the spring
pin which holds the upper keyrod guide to the verge pivot rod at
the right-hand side, under the escapements, and pushing back on the
guide. The escapements can then be removed by taking out the two
screws, one at each end, and lift off the dowel pins.
The escapement mechanism of models 8, 14, 18, 19, 14-s-k, and K is
similar to the model explained above, except that the verge spring
pulls downward on the verge instead of upward, as in the other
models. The escapement is operated by the escapement lever and a
plunger from the front. The keyrod forces the escapement lever
upward. The lever strikes the plunger and forces it against the verge.
The model 8 or 14 verge escapements can be removed by raising the
magazine and pushing the escapement back from between the escapement
supports.
MAGAZINES
The magazine is the receptacle in which a font of matrices is stored
on the machine, ready for instant use as the matrices are desired in
assembling a line. Some of the main features of the different model
machines are the number of magazines carried on the machine at one
time, the size or width of the magazine, and the manner of removing
the magazines.
The magazine or channel plate consists of 92 channels milled in the
brass plates, which guide the lugs of the matrices and keep them in
line, so as to pass the escapements one at a time. Model 1 magazines
have the old style channel entrances, attached to each magazine
frame. The model 1 magazines are narrow, and will only carry matrices
up to and including 11-point. The escapements of this model are
fastened directly to the magazine.
The magazine for a model 2 or 3 machine is practically the same as a
model 1 in construction, with the exception of being two inches wider
at the lower end.
The verges on these models are practically the same as on the model
1, but on account of the difference in width of the magazines, are
thicker. In this style the verges are locked by turning the grooved
escapement verge locking bar one-fourth of a turn. This is turned by
the crank at the right-hand side of the magazine. The keyboard is
locked with a bar the same as the model 1.
The channel entrance is similar to the model 1.
The lower magazine of the model 2 is shorter than the upper magazine.
The matrices are released by the same keyboard mechanism. The
escapements, however, are on the top of the magazine instead of
beneath it. Each keyrod has a lug fastened to the back end of it,
which engages the escapement levers connected to the escapements.
When the lower magazine is being used, the keyrod is raised and
allows the verge spring to operate the escapement, releasing the
matrix. The keyrod spring pulls the escapement lever down. This lever
brings the escapement into position, ready to release another matrix.
The escapements on both magazines are capable of movement, as
the verge springs of both tend to raise the escapements, but are
prevented from doing so by the keyrod spring. The matrices are
prevented from escaping from both magazines at the same time by a
pair of grooved rods, which lie between the verges and the magazine.
The locks on these rods are so arranged that the locking of one
escapement unlocks the other, the movement of these being controlled
by a hand lever at the right of the face plate, directly above the
keyboard.
The model 3 magazine is the same as the model 2 (upper). The
escapement action is also the same.
The upper magazine of a model 4 is a removable magazine which is
independent of the escapement mechanism or the channel entrance. This
magazine is as wide as the model 2 or 3, but is not interchangeable
with them. This magazine is interchangeable with those of a model 5,
8, 14, 18, 19, or 14-s-k.
The lower magazine of a model 4 is the same as a model 2, but it
is easily removed from the machine, as the escapement mechanism is
independent of the magazine.
The escapement on the model 4 is the same as on the model 2, except
that the escapement mechanism is fastened to the machine brackets
instead of to the magazine.
On models 2 and 4 there are two channels of lower case “e” matrices.
The mechanism for the operation of the double “e” is one keyboard cam
to be connected alternately to the two short keyrods which connect
with the two “e” verges. The shifting of a short keyrod from one to
the other keyrods is accomplished by the raising of the assembling
elevator, which operates a lever fastened to the assembling elevator
link. This link comes in contact with a pawl and ratchet that operate
the short keyrod by shifting alternately. This attachment can be
applied to any model of machine.
The model 5 is a quick change machine. The magazine changes from the
front and can be lifted off by one person. The escapement mechanism
is separate from the magazine.
The model 5 magazine is the same as the model 4 and is
interchangeable with any of the above mentioned models except models
1, 2, or 3.
The No. 5 (English) magazine is now known as the standard magazine.
This magazine is used on all models 4, 5, 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, and 19
machines.
The model 8 machine carries 3 of these No. 5 magazines. All magazines
may be changed from the front of the machine. The magazines are
interchangeable as to their position in the machine. They are also
interchangeable with the same No. 5 magazines on other machines.
The model 14 is the same as the model 8, except that it has an
auxiliary magazine.
Model 18, which carries two magazines, uses the same magazines as a
model 5, 8, or 14. The escapements are hung to the magazine frame,
but are like the model 5, 8, or 14 escapements, and are held in place
by two spring clamps that fit over the top of the magazines at the
front. By shifting a lever at the right of the magazine frame, the
position of the magazines is changed.
The model 19 is the same as the model 18, except that it has an
auxiliary magazine.
REMOVING A MAGAZINE
It is sometimes necessary to remove the magazines of any model of
machine for the purpose of cleaning or repairing, or to change the
type face.
Read carefully the instructions for the removing of the magazines
until you become thoroughly familiar with the order of procedure. To
forget one operation or to perform an operation at the wrong time may
cause the matrices to be spilled or something more serious.
To remove a model 1 magazine: Lock the verges by placing the locking
wire above the shoulder of the back pawls, lock the keyboard by
inserting the locking rod in the slotted hole in the right-hand
keyboard post and shove the rod through the full length of the
keyboard. This rod passes under the end of the keyboard cam yokes
and raises them, which raises the keyrods off the verges a trifle.
Unlatch the upper keyrod guide at the right-hand side and move the
keyrods off the verges. Pull the flexible front of the assembler
plate forward as far as the chain permits it to come. Remove the
tray under the rear channel entrance, raise the magazine to a level
position and push it through toward the rear and lift out carefully.
It requires two persons to remove a magazine of this model.
In returning the magazine be careful that it is moved forward the
full distance before the front end is lowered; or the lift lever of
the distributor box may be damaged.
To remove the upper magazine from a model 2: Unlatch the connecting
links between the verge locks, throw the verge lock of the upper
magazine down one-fourth of a turn, and slip the sliding block on
the side of the upper magazine downward. This holds the upper verge
lock. Lock the keyboard, and depress the pin beneath the verges of
the upper magazine, at the right. This pin holds the keyrod guide
and keyrods to the verges. Push the guide back and disconnect the
keyrods. The lower end of the upper magazine can now be raised and
the magazine drawn out of the machine at the back. Use care not to
damage the lower magazine or back entrance.
To remove the lower magazine of a model 2: Remove the upper
magazine, throw the keyrods forward with the lever, draw out the rod
beneath the magazine mouth. This rod holds the matrix guides for the
lower magazine in place. Lift out the magazine, using care not to
damage the escapements or levers.
To remove the model 5 magazine: Insert the locking strip, pressing
it firmly in place. This bar holds the matrices in the channels. The
bar also releases the lock at the left-hand side of the magazine and
permits the cam levers to be turned or brought forward into position
for holding the magazine. Pull forward the spring lock which fits
over the lower end of the magazine. With the cam levers, raise the
magazine frame. Lift the front end of the magazine and it will slide
forward; then by allowing the lower end to drop, the magazine will
hang in a vertical position on the levers. Close the cover at the top
of the magazine and lift off.
The above method of locking must be followed with any No. 5 magazine
on any model.
To remove any of the three magazines from a model 8 or 14 proceed in
the following manner:
Any magazine should be in operating position before it is removed.
The upper magazine is removed similarly to a model 5. Place the
locking rod in the magazine to lock the matrices and unlock the catch
at left of the magazine. Take off the bar which extends across the
top side of the magazine. Turn the cam levers forward, and lift the
magazine off.
To remove the second magazine: Insert the locking bar in the top and
second magazines. Raise the magazines with the elevating mechanism,
as high as they will go. Place the frame supports under the upper
magazine frame. Remove the bar which extends across the top side of
the top magazine. Turn the elevating crank until the frame descends
and the second magazine is in operating position, leaving the upper
magazine elevated. Place the right- and left-hand cams on the second
magazine frame. Lift out the escapements of the upper magazine. Then
proceed as in removing the upper magazine.
To remove the third magazine: Remove the two upper magazines and take
off the frame cams; take out the eight screws that hold the right-
and left-hand gibs to the frame guides; remove the gibs, using care
not to get them mixed. Remove the two frames from the guides; take
out the two clamps that hold the lower magazine at the rear. Have a
helper stand on the frame of the machine in the rear, and reach over
the top of the distributor beam to assist in lifting the magazine,
while the operator in front gradually raises the magazine clear of
the escapement frame. Take out the escapements by removing the two
screws in the left-hand support and pry it off dowel pin holes. Be
careful to hold the escapement with one hand so it does not drop.
To remove a magazine from a model 18 or 19: Put the lower magazine
in operating position. Insert the locking strips. Pull the lever
at the left down as far as it will go, which spreads apart the two
magazines. Drop the escapements down by releasing the two spring
clamps that fit over the top of the magazine. The clamp on the left
is fitted with a lock so it can not be dropped unless the locking
strip is all the way through. Fasten the two shoes for the magazine
bar to slide on, in the holes provided for them, and lift off
magazine from the front. Either magazine can be lifted off.
In making the above changes, be sure you have locked the magazine. In
replacing the magazine on the escapements be sure that the magazine
is seated properly before removing the locking bar.
NEW MODEL 8 AND 14 SINGLE KEYBOARD
These models change practically the same as other models, but the
lower magazine can be changed as easily and quickly as the top or
center magazines.
This is accomplished by changes in the locating rods, guides, and
elevating screw which permit raising the magazine frames higher,
clearing the assembler plate far enough to slide the lower magazine
out the same as the other two.
The escapements are hung to the magazine frame in the same manner
as the models 18 and 19, and are held in place by the clamps, but
the latter clamps are tightened by means of screws and knurled knobs
instead of springs.
To remove a magazine from a late model 8 or 14-s-k: Put the magazine
in operating position next to the one to be changed; if the top one
is to be changed, put the second magazine in operating position;
if the second one, place the lower magazine in position. Lock the
locking strip, drop the escapements down by releasing the two knurled
knob screws that clamp the escapement over the top of the magazine.
Pull the lever at the left down as far as it will go; fasten the two
shoes for the magazine bar to slide on in the lugs provided for them
and lift off the magazine from the front.
SPLIT MAGAZINES
Split magazines can be used on models 8, 14, 14-s-k, 18, 19, 21,
and 22. These magazines are just half the length of the regular
magazines and carry 12 matrices of each character. These magazines
are very handy, where a large amount of changes are made, because of
their lightness. On account of the short fonts carried, they are not
desirable for use below 12-point, except in some job faces.
These magazines are changed the same as the full length magazines.
AUXILIARY MAGAZINES
Auxiliary magazines are narrow, having only 28 channels, and are
operated by separate auxiliary escapements, keyrods, and keyboard.
They are extensively used for carrying headletter and advertising
fonts, and two-line figures. They can be changed the same as changing
a model 5 magazine.
The newer style auxiliary, used on the model 14 single keyboard,
is wider and has 34 channels; permitting the use of larger faces
and carrying more of an assortment of characters than the older
model. This magazine is operated by separate keyrods and escapements
connecting with the regular keyboard through the medium of a series
of fulcrumed levers, which can, by the operation of a small lever, be
brought into instant use at will from the regular keyboard.
MODEL K
The model K is a two magazine machine with magazines the same width
as the model 1. This model does not differ materially from a model
1 except that it has two interchangeable narrow magazines supported
in a frame similar to the frame of a model 19. The magazines are
changed by pulling a lever at the right of the magazine frame. This
machine carries the short keyrods, escapement levers, and escapements
similar to a model 19, except that the escapements are fastened to
the magazine. These magazines are changed from the front. They are
not interchangeable with a model 1 magazine. The other parts of the
machine are the same as any of the other models.
MODEL L
The model L is a rebuilt machine along the same lines as a model
5. The magazine changes from the front the same as a model 5. The
escapements are fastened to the intermediate brackets similar to a
model 5.
To change a magazine on this model: Lock the matrices by inserting
the locking strip, pressing it firmly in place. Raise the cam levers
to positions, lift the front end of the magazine, and it will slide
forward. By allowing the lower end to drop, the magazine will hang in
a vertical position ready to be lifted off.
To remove the verges from this model it is necessary to use the
locking rod that comes with the machine. This rod is similar to the
one used on the model 1, except it has an extra strip at the top
which raises the keyrods higher. Insert this strip in the hole in
the keyboard post at the right; push through as far as it will go.
This will lift the keyrods free of the verges; they can now be pushed
back by releasing the latch that holds the upper keyrod guides to
the verge pivot rod at the right, and pushing back on the guide. The
escapements can now be removed by taking out the two screws, one at
each end, and lift off dowel pins.
TO REMOVE A VERGE
Remove the magazine or escapements from the machine and place bottom
side up on a bench or table. On a model 1, with a pair of duck bill
pliers, straighten the bent ears on the verge partition which holds
the narrow brass locking strip in place. Raise the strip to a point
beyond the desired verge. (On the other models there is no strip to
be removed.) Push out the pivot rod with another rod of the same
size, until you reach the desired verge; separate the ends of the two
rods and lift out the verge and its pawls. Verges are made in various
sizes and care should be taken that a verge of the same size is used
in replacing. Examine the verge and pawl to see that there is nothing
to retard its free action. Examine the verge spring for wear at the
point of contact with the verge. If the verge does not work freely
the matrices can not drop properly.
FAILURE OF MATRICES TO RESPOND
(_Due to trouble above the keyboard_)
When the matrices fail to respond to the touch and the keyboard and
keyrods have been found to be working properly, the trouble may
be due to: Dirty magazine, dirty matrices, bent or damaged lugs
on the matrices, weak verge spring, bent verge pawl, bent verge
plunger, broken verge, verge not making full stroke, magazine not
aligning with the assembler front partitions, matrix laying flat in
the magazine and holding others back, no matrices in the channel,
battered channel, keyrod spring weak or off.
CLEANING A MAGAZINE
To clean a magazine, run out all the matrices into a galley and place
the magazine in a convenient place for cleaning. Magazines which have
the verges assembled on them should be placed with the bottom side
up in order to prevent the dirt getting in around the pawls while
cleaning. With a good magazine brush, clean all dirt and gum from
the inside of the magazine. If the magazine is very dirty, first use
a little good gasoline or denatured alcohol on the brush to cut all
the gum loose. Brush the magazine and use the air until dry on the
inside. Then polish the inside by applying a very small amount of
graphite on the brush and rubbing briskly.
In cleaning a magazine, be sure that all the little dark spots, which
show where the lugs of the matrices set in the magazine, are removed.
These spots are gum which forms in the magazine, due to oil and dirt
which are carried in on the lugs of the matrices. If these spots are
not entirely removed it would be better not to clean the magazine at
all. When they are merely loosened up by the cleaning, the matrices
will be held back and will not drop regularly.
Frequently the bristles of the brush will get caught in the
partitions of the magazine and pull out of the brush. These can
usually be removed by dragging the edge of a soft pine yard-stick
across them.
Keep the various parts of the machine, with which the matrices come
in contact, clean and free from oil, and the magazine will not get
dirty for some time.
CLEANING MATRICES
Matrices to be cleaned should be placed on a flat galley. With an ink
eraser (Banner Eberhard Faber No. 1071) remove the gum or dirt from
the lugs and the face. Then blow the loose dust off with the air.
Place another galley bottom side up over the galley of matrices and
turn both galleys and the matrices over. The back lugs and back side
of the matrices may then be cleaned the same as the face.
MAGAZINE HINTS
Never oil the escapements nor put oil in the magazine. To do so will
cause escapement trouble.
Do not slam the magazine entrance when closing it. There may be a
matrix overhanging the edge that you have overlooked, and you will
damage the matrix and the back end of the magazine.
Never pound the magazine to make matrices drop. Locate the cause of
the trouble and remove it.
Don’t forget, when pulling down the magazine entrance, to do so
quickly, as opening it slowly is liable to cause a matrix to fall
into the magazine flatwise.
Never try to force a matrix past the escapement. If it will not come
through easily, pull it out the back way.
A wooden reglet with a rubber band around the end will be found
convenient for removing a flat matrix from the magazine.
Never attempt to remove a magazine without first inserting the
locking bar.
Do not expect a rusty or bent locking bar to work freely. Clean it;
if bent, straighten it.
Never put a No. 5 magazine on the machine until you have run your
fingers along the opening at the back side of the lower end to make
sure there are no matrices with the lugs in the opening. If there
are, push them back in the magazine. Just one lug in this opening
will prevent the magazine seating properly.
ASSEMBLING ELEVATOR
The assembling elevator is held in place on the face plate by the
two gibs, one on each side, and by the assembler roll bracket on the
lower right-hand side.
The assembling elevator on all the later model machines consists
of two castings, held together at the bottom by a large screw and
dowel pins. The two castings carry, as the main parts, the assembler
gate, retaining pawls, the duplex rails, the buffer parts on which
the matrices strike, the releasing pin, the latch, and the detaining
plates.
The matrices, when falling from the magazines, are guided downward
by a series of flexible partitions. These partitions are thin strips
fastened to the assembler plate and are bent at an angle at the
bottom to cause the matrix to drop flat on an endless conveyer belt
which carries them to the assembler rails. These rails are so shaped
that the matrices slide between them and the chute spring into the
assembling elevator and are moved forward into the elevator by a star
wheel.
As the matrix is caught by the star wheel, it is pushed between
the two assembling elevator rail pawls and seated on the elevator
buffers. The matrix is held in place at the bottom of the elevator by
two detaining plates. When these parts are in perfect condition, the
matrix will set straight in the elevator.