FOOTNOTES:

[1] Iliad, ix. 187-190.

[2] Iliad, ix. 310-320.

[3] Iliad. Pope renders this--Alike regretted in the dust he lies. But

it is an expression of discontent with destiny, which sets a common

limit to life, and not to men, whose regrets may be unequal.

[4] Jean Jacques Rousseau. Confessions, p. 1. l. vi.

[5] We remember perfectly well the beginning of an apostrophe to the

Jewish philosopher; "Du _heiliger_ Spinoza." Herder, too, has a good

deal to say in defence of him.

ART. III.--_Travels in Kamtchatka and Siberia; with a Narrative of a

Residence in China._ By PETER DOBELL. 2 vols. 12mo. 1830.

Mr. Dobell, the author of these volumes, is an American gentleman, who

formerly resided in the city of Philadelphia, where he was known as an

enterprising and intelligent merchant. Commercial business led him to

make several voyages, beyond the Cape of Good Hope; and circumstances at

length induced him to prolong his residence in Asia. He established

himself at Canton, where he lived for some years, and undertook, from

time to time, trading expeditions to various ports on the shore of the

Pacific Ocean. In the course of these, frequent opportunities were

afforded of noticing the manners, country, and state of society in

China, superior to such as occur to ordinary travellers; and much too of

the remote people of Eastern Russia, who are very little known to those

inhabiting the civilized portions of the world. These voyages were

succeeded by more than one journey across the country to St. Petersburg,

in which he observed, with an attentive eye and inquisitive disposition,

the extensive regions forming the _penetralia_ of that vast empire. His

intelligence and exertions were noticed and rewarded by the confidence

of the government, who conferred on him the office of Consul at some

Eastern port, and he was subsequently raised to the post of "Counsellor

of the court" of his Imperial Majesty, a rank which he still retains,

having probably relinquished the intention of returning to his own

country.

The account of China, which, in the natural order, would form the first

portion of his narrative, is comprised in a sort of supplement to the

travels in Siberia, and contains in a more compendious form, a good

sketch of the manners and state of society in that singular country. The

means of observation, and of obtaining information, are indeed greatly

diminished, by the well known jealousy of the Chinese towards strangers,

and the extreme vanity and exaggeration with which they speak of

themselves and their country; but the pursuits of Mr. Dobell, together

with the recurrence of the opportunities by which he profited, give to

his account a considerable degree of novelty, and certainly entitle it

to more than ordinary confidence.

On his first arrival at Canton, he was struck with the new and

interesting scene that presented itself. Islands, hills, canals, and

rivers, were scattered around. The verdure was lively, the population

excessive, the vegetation and general appearance of the country totally

different from those he had elsewhere beheld, and the waters glittered

with innumerable fleets of boats of various sizes and descriptions. The

boatmen and pilots addressed him in a language which he afterwards

found to prevail extensively at Canton, and which was called English; it

is, in truth, a bad dialect of that language, the composition and

pronunciation of which are so curious and difficult, that a residence of

a year or two is necessary for its acquisition. None of the Chinese,

rich or poor, understand those who speak plain English. The first

intercourse of a foreigner with the natives, displays that imposition

and venality which are more strongly exhibited, during every month of

his residence among them. He is at once surrounded by persons, called

_compradors_, who offer their assistance in supplying him with

provisions of every description; they serve him without wages, although

they are obliged to pay the Mandarins for the privilege of affording

their generous aid to strangers; the consequence is, they take especial

care to remunerate themselves handsomely at the expense of those to whom

they extend their kindness. Besides this, as they bribe the custom-house

officers, they are able to offer many facilities, and to carry on an

extensive contraband commerce. Those officers are sent to a vessel

immediately on her arrival, and their boats, called hoppoo-boats are

constantly attached to her stern while she remains in port; their

consciences, however, are easily satisfied by the liberality of the

comprador, and they pass their time in smoking, sleeping, and playing at

cards; indeed, if any extraordinary smuggling is desired to be

accomplished, they protect the offender against the officious

interference of other officers: they keep shops on board of their boats,

where they exercise their expertness in cheating, and, as every thing is

sold by weight, it is necessary to weigh for yourself what you buy, to

avoid the tricks which they always endeavour to play.

Undoubtedly, the venality of the Chinese has been increased by the

introduction of commerce from beyond the Cape of Good Hope; but there is

no doubt also, that its existence is of very old date, and that it is

owing to the nature and conduct of the government, more than to the

character of the people. There are so many prohibitions and enormous

duties to tempt their prevailing passion, avarice, that vast numbers

engage in the contraband trade, as being the most profitable; moderate

duties, and freedom of importation, would destroy the temptation, and

render smuggling dangerous and unprofitable; at present it has become an

organized system of plunder, protected by the Mandarins themselves.

"The opium trade," says Mr. Dobell, "with the exception of ten

chests of that pernicious drug, that are allowed to be imported

into Macao, for medicinal purposes, is entirely conducted by

smugglers. In defiance of an annual edict from the Emperor,

making it death to smuggle opium, the enormous quantity of

nearly _four thousand chests_ is imported every year to Macao

and Whampoa; the greater part, however, goes to the former

place. When I inform my readers that each chest weighs a

_pecul_, that is to say, 133-1/3 English pounds, and that it

sells for twelve to fifteen hundred, and sometimes two thousand

Spanish dollars a chest, they may form some judgment of the

value and extent of smuggling in China. It is a business that

all the inferior Mandarins, and some of the higher ones, their

protectors, are engaged in; so that opium is carried through

the streets of Macao, in the most bare-faced manner, in the

open day. The opium dealers at Whampoa, formerly took it away

by night, but latterly I have seen them go to the ship, with

the linguist of the Whampoa custom-house officer, and take it

out in the day time. Sixty Spanish dollars is the bribe paid

for each chest of opium sold at Macao; and if it goes to

Canton, it pays sixty more on its arrival there. Large boats

armed, and having from thirty to forty men, called opium boats,

ply between Macao and Canton, when that market offers an

advantage in price. These boats carry this drug, and are

sanctioned by the custom-house officers, who, of course,

receive for this business likewise, a good bribe."

The only attempts made to suppress this practice, are on the initiation

into office of new _foo-yunes_, or governors, who have not yet perfectly

learned the established usages, or who have not been propitiated by the

necessary gratuities. In these cases, a terrible revolution occurs in

the peaceful and quiet frauds of the smugglers; their shops are broken

up, their property confiscated without mercy, and all the terrors of the

law invoked upon the persons of such, who indeed are few, as have not

alertness and foresight enough to keep out of the way. This excess of

virtue does not endure long however; and the liberal generosity of the

traders generally contrives, in a month, to overcome the scruples of the

most resolute.

"During my residence, however," says Mr. Dobell, "a _foo-yune_

arrived, who proved incorruptible, and he almost destroyed the

smugglers, as well as the profits of his colleagues; which

latter, becoming tired of his persecutions, united together,

and by their intrigues had him advanced to a much higher

station. Being a man of talent, he got another step again in a

short time, and at length came back to Canton as Tsan-tuk or

viceroy. The opium dealers and smugglers were greatly alarmed,

shut up their shops, and secreted themselves for some time. It

appeared their fears were groundless. This artful man, who

formerly persecuted them from political motives, to insure his

advancement, was now as mild and propitious as possible. Having

arrived at an elevated station, with the certainty of rising

still higher, he sought to enrich himself, in order to be more

sure of gratifying his ambition. Accordingly, he proved kind to

his colleagues, and polite to Europeans; and by his affability

of deportment, contrived to amass the largest fortune that ever

fell to the share of a viceroy of Canton. He was afterwards

made a member of the emperor's council at Pekin."

The robbery of the government, if conducted with sufficient skill and

boldness, seems to be as successful as smuggling--indeed, it is a maxim

with those in power, never to risk a defeat, and that it is best to

accomplish their ends, by a crafty and cautious delay until a favourable

moment for executing them arrives. The salt trade is one of the most

lucrative, important, and extensive, and is conducted entirely under

special licenses from Mandarins, appointed by the crown. Some years

since, the pirates on the coast intercepted the salt-junks, and

compelled the monopolists to negotiate with them, and pay a certain sum

for the safe passage of every vessel. After a while, this intercourse

led to a regular trade, by which the captains of the salt-junks supplied

the pirates with arms and ammunition, and the government discovering it,

an entire stop was put to the salt trade. The pirates, however, were not

to be so easily frightened or defeated; their admiral, Apo-Tsy,

forthwith commenced an offensive warfare; assembled an immense fleet of

junks and a force of upwards of twenty thousand men, invaded the country

near Macao, cut all the ripe rice, and carried it off, as well as a

great number of women, whom he presented to his followers. In vain did

the viceroy attack the piratical fleet,--he was defeated in every

engagement, and the affair was only terminated by making Apo-Tsy

governor of the province of Fokien, and pardoning all his followers!

Matters however did not stop here; in some of his battles, Apo-Tsy had

taken prisoner an admiral nearly related to the heir to the crown, and

cut off his head; as soon as the relative ascended the throne, he

despatched a polite message to the governor of Fokien, to say, that the

laws of the empire required blood for blood, and that his excellency's

head was therefore required instead of the admiral's. There was no

excuse to be made, and the twenty thousand pirates were no longer at

hand, so that Apo-Tsy's head was conveyed to Pekin.

This salt trade is very extensive; no less than twenty thousand tons of

shipping being occupied in it alone. Indeed the great commerce of the

Chinese appears to be that carried on by their own junks to the

Indo-Chinese islands. One of these vessels will carry a cargo of from

three to five thousand dollars value, in earthenware, silks, nankeens,

ironmongery, tea, and other productions and manufactures of the Chinese.

They have settlements on all these islands, and are certainly invaluable

colonists, as they have sufficiently proved wherever they are

established. They work the mines, plant cotton, make indigo and sugar,

and acquire large fortunes among the slothful and careless Malays.

Though they intermarry with these people, they never adopt their habits

or religion, but remain, as well as their descendants, a distinct race;

and wherever found, their settlements present a complete miniature

picture of China. It is indeed a gross error to consider China a country

wholly agricultural and manufacturing; on the contrary, the Chinese are

one of the most commercial nations of the globe. It is true, they affect

themselves to hold the trade which they carry on with distant nations,

as comparatively unimportant, and assert that with the contiguous

islands to be infinitely more lucrative; yet this is to be ascribed to

their habit of decrying other countries; and it is not to be doubted

that the revenue derived from the commerce they thus contemn, is very

great. The importations into Canton from England, America, Holland,

France, Sweden, Denmark, Manilla, and India, in European and American

ships, in money and merchandise, must be annually from thirty to forty

millions of dollars. The bad policy which occasions the immense

contraband trade in opium, deprives the government of duties, annually,

to the amount of four or five millions of dollars. Their commercial

system with foreigners, shows a great deal of deep cunning, but it is

repulsive to wisdom and good policy, and by no means calculated to

afford them the advantages they might derive from that intercourse.

The highly wrought principles and moral maxims, which abound in the

writings of the lawgivers and philosophers of China, have been sometimes

cited to prove the existence of a superior system of institutions and

laws. Theoretical speculations, vanity, and self adulation, are one

thing; wise administration, and practical justice, are another. The

doctrines of Confucius are worthy to be placed with those of Solon; the

rescripts of the celestial emperor, abound in common-places of unbending

integrity and the sternest equity; but notwithstanding all this, the

morals of the people are debased, the very foundations of virtue are

sapped by bribery and corruption, with all their concomitant vices; the

sword of justice is arrested; and license is widely given to the

violation of public and private rights. Some instances of this

unblushing venality are mentioned by Mr. Dobell.

"By the law of homicide, life must atone for life; and, if a

person dies suddenly, the master of the house is treated in the

same manner as if he had been guilty, until he proves the fact.

This keeps the Chinese always on their guard, and ready to

deceive the mandarins, or to bribe them, if necessity should

require. A person of my acquaintance related to me, that he had

a large garden, where there were some nice fruits, which were

often stolen; and although his servants had frequently watched,

they could not detect the offender. He therefore determined to

watch with them; and, having armed himself with a pike,

accompanied his two servants in the night, to try and detect

the thief. Not long after he had placed himself at his post, he

saw a naked man approach the trees near where he stood. He

called to him to stand still or he would kill him. The fellow,

frightened at this summons, made off with all speed; and the

master of the house, seeing him about to escape, threw his pike

at him, which killed him on the spot. He was much alarmed at

the accident; but recollecting himself, he promised his

servants a handsome present to keep the affair secret; and with

their assistance, threw the dead body over the wall, into his

neighbour's garden. This, too, was managed in so careful

manner, as to render it impossible to discover whence the body

came. His neighbour, who was a very rich tea-merchant, felt no

less alarmed than astonished, on the following morning, when

his servants informed him that a dead man had been found in the

garden, who to all appearance had been murdered. The story soon

reached the mandarin of the district, who proceeded, in all due

form, to execute the duties of his office, and examine the

body; not a little delighted to have to deal with such a man as

the rich tea-merchant. A corpse found in this way cannot be

touched or removed until the police-mandarin of the district

comes and inquires into the manner of the person's death; and

if there is any thing suspicious, he will not suffer the dead

man to be taken away, before he has had some satisfactory

proofs of the cause of his death. As none such could be

elicited from the merchant, who, conscious of his innocence,

thought the mandarin could do him no harm, the latter

commenced a regular process, and made him daily visits, besides

sending for him frequently, and thus perplexed him exceedingly.

All this time the dead man was left in the garden, which being

near the house, and the body beginning to putrefy, such an

odour was caused as became almost insupportable. At length, the

merchant, overpowered by the bad smell, and alarmed by the

measures the mandarin was preparing to prove him culpable, was

happy to compromise the affair, and have the dead body removed,

on paying the sum of four thousand five hundred Spanish

dollars!"

Nor was this the end of the adventure, which reminds one of the story of

the Little Hunch-back, in the Arabian Nights Entertainments:--

"A few years after, the person who put the dead man into the

merchant's garden, had himself a disagreeable affair, though it

cost him less trouble and money to get rid of it. In the street

where he lived, and not far from his house, was an eating house

for the lower classes. A beggar, who had been half-starved,

receiving from some compassionate person enough to purchase

himself a very ample repast, repaired to this eating house, and

called for several things at the same moment, which he ate most

voraciously. The owner of the eating house requested him to

stop a while before he ate again, as he perceived it must have

been some time since he had satisfied his hunger. The beggar,

however, would not listen to reason; he demanded food for his

money till it was all expended, and then dropped down dead.

This happened towards evening; and when the host perceived that

it was dark, he and his servants took up the dead mendicant,

and placed him at the door of the person before mentioned. On

the following morning, the beggar-mandarin of the district came

to him, and was very troublesome, declaring the beggar had been

killed by some of his family, and that he should institute a

process against him immediately. The accused, however, had the

good fortune to find a witness, who had seen the keeper of the

eating house and his servants put the body at his door.

Although the beggar-mandarin could now do nothing against him

in law, he refused to take the corpse away; and he was obliged

to pay him two hundred dollars to have it removed before it

became offensive. No doubt he got a good fee likewise from the

master of the eating house."

The accounts we have of the population of China, greatly exaggerate it

in the opinion of Mr. Dobell. The persons by whom these statements are

given, have been generally ambassadors, missionaries and others, who

were, from political motives, as well as convenience of travelling,

conducted in boats on the canals and rivers which intersect the richest,

best cultivated and most populous parts of the empire. But it is

ridiculous to calculate the number of inhabitants, by assuming, as the

basis, the population of a square league so settled, and to imagine that

all the land is equally well cultivated. The truth is, that all the rice

grounds of the empire--and the whole population eats rice--would be

utterly insufficient to afford the necessary quantity, for any thing

approaching to the numbers which it is currently asserted to contain.

The system of husbandry, too, is defective, though the cultivators of

the soil are industrious; about Canton and Macao, they transplant every

stalk of rice by hand with great regularity, and make two crops in the

year; one in July, the other in October. In the cultivation of

vegetables of all sorts, they are not surpassed by any nation of the

globe. Rents are usually paid in cattle, hogs, fowls, rice, and the

various productions of the soil, and the tenure is a species of feudal

one, derived primarily from the emperor, who is considered theoretically

as the actual proprietor of all the soil.[6] Fruits are so plentiful,

that there is less attention paid to them than in colder climates;

almost every month of the year has its peculiar fruits; but those most

esteemed are the oranges, mangoes, and lichees. Of the productions of

the soil, however, that most prized by foreigners, as well as most used

and esteemed in China, is tea. To the history of this celebrated plant,

Mr. Dobell has devoted a whole chapter, but we confess that we have

found it less perspicuous, except as to the commercial value of the

various qualities offered for sale, than we desired or expected, after

the opportunities of observation which he possessed. We infer, that he

agrees with the prevailing opinion, that there is but one species of the

tea plant. He speaks of four _stocks_, by which he seems to mean the

varieties arising from a difference of cultivation, soil, or

temperature. These four stocks are _Bohea_, _Ankay_, _Hyson_, and

_Singlo_--names derived from the places in which they are particularly

cultivated. From the two former are prepared what we call _black_ teas,

from the two latter _green_ teas. According to the season at which the

leaves are gathered, and the manner in which they are subsequently

prepared, is the excellence of each kind. Of _black_ teas, the Bohea

kinds are superior to the Ankay; thus, the simplest or commonest sort of

the first, sells at Canton for twelve to fourteen taels per pecul,[7] of

the other for eight to ten; and the finest sort of the first, Bohea

Pecho, brings from forty to one hundred and twenty taels; but of the

latter, Ankay Pecho, only thirty-two to forty-two taels. In like manner

of _green_ teas, the Hyson kinds are superior to the Singlo; thus the

commonest sort of the first, called Hyson Skin, sells for twenty-six to

thirty taels, while that of the latter, called Singlo Skin, sells at

twenty-two to twenty-five taels; and the finest sort of the first, or

Hyson Gunpowder, brings eighty to one hundred and twenty taels, while

Singlo Gunpowder brings only fifty to eighty taels. As the subject is

one of considerable interest, we have condensed into a short table the

comparative qualities and values of the different kinds of teas, so far

as we can do so from the remarks of Mr. Dobell:--the value is reduced to

our own currency, and the quantity to our own weights; the price is that

of the Canton market.

_Black Teas._

Common Bohea, 21 dollars per 133-1/3 pounds

Bohea Congou, 33 " " "

Bohea Campoi, 34 " " "

Bohea Souchong, 60 " " "

Bohea Pecho, 133 " " "

Common Ankay, 15 " " "

Ankay Congou, 27 " " "

Ankay Campoi, 38 " " "

Ankay Souchong, 41 " " "

Ankay Pecho, 61 " " "

_Green Teas._

Hyson Skin, 46 dollars per 133-1/3 pounds

Hyson Young-hyson, 63 " " "

Hyson, 91 " " "

Hyson Gunpowder, 166 " " "

Singlo Skin, 39 " " "

Singlo Young-hyson, 47 " " "

Singlo Hyson, 78 " " "

Singlo Gunpowder, 108 " " "

Tea is the common beverage of all classes, and is always drunk warm,

even in the hottest weather, and at all hours of the day. It is prepared

by putting a small quantity of the leaves in a fine porcelain cup;

boiling water is then poured on it, and it is covered immediately with

another cup fitting closely: as soon as the flavour of the tea is

slightly extracted, it is sipped hot, as it is, great strength being

avoided; the cup is then filled again with boiling water, until all the

flavour of the herb is exhausted. Mechanics and labourers, who cannot

afford to drink it in this manner, draw it in a large block-tin tea-pot,

cased with wood, and having cotton wool put between the wood and the

vessel to preserve the warmth longer. The extreme heat of the tea, as

preferred by the Chinese, is one of the causes, perhaps, that tend to

produce the relaxation, weakness of digestion, and languor of nerve,

with which they are much afflicted.

The perfection of many of the mechanic arts in China, which cannot be

denied in some instances, results less from any scientific skill, than

from the laboured experience of ages brought slowly to a certain point.

Beyond that, no discoveries of modern knowledge have led them. Thus, the

brightness and permanence of colouring in their silk manufactures, are

not produced by any secret mordents or process, but derived from a very

nice experience of the climate, and certain concurrent circumstances.

For instance, great numbers of persons are employed, so that great

rapidity in the execution of the process is assured. The north wind,

called Pak-fung, is the only period at which the silks are dried. And

when they are packed up for exportation, great care is taken to avoid a

time when there is the slightest dampness.

Nothing has ever been more exaggerated, than the state of civilization

and social advancement among the Chinese. They are, in general, a

frugal, sober, and industrious people; but the accounts of their

government, sciences, religion, public institutions, and improvement in

morals and arts, are both false and ridiculous. The administration of

public affairs, is such as would disgrace any country on the globe; and

the code of laws which is expressed in such high flown metaphors, and

boasts such wonderful wisdom in its doctrines, serves, in truth, but as

a cloak to hide injustice and oppression. In former times, the mandarins

or nobles were said to be chosen from amongst the best of the nation, by

wise men sent for that purpose by the emperor; at present, money wins

its way more easily than talent or virtue, to the hearts of these

electors. The poorer classes live in a state of extreme wretchedness;

their houses are low, confined, and filthy, and they crowd together in

great numbers; on the coasts, those who live in boats,--and they are

stated to amount at Canton to sixty or eighty thousand souls,--have much

cleaner and more commodious habitations. There is said to be more

deformity among them than among any other people; and all classes are

subject to the complaints which result from debauchery and the use of

opium. In the latter, they appear to find an almost inexpressible

delight. The Chinese have no surgeons, and are almost totally ignorant

of anatomy; the first physicians of Canton, have none but the most

confused notions of the circulation of the blood; they believe it flows

differently on the right and left sides of the body, and they therefore

feel both pulses when they visit a patient.

At Canton, during the summer months, the thermometer varies from 82 deg. to

92 deg.. There is but little frost in winter, and not much rain. The streets

are only made for foot passengers. The mandarins ride in sedan-chairs of

large size, with glass windows, carried on the shoulders of four, six,

ten, or twelve men; several fellows run before with whips, which they

apply without mercy to any one obstructing the way; others beat gongs to

warn the crowd; whilst some cry out, with a shrill voice, like the

howling of dogs. The Chinese, indeed, though supposed to be a grave

nation, are remarkably fond of personal display; few countries abound

more with fops. The dress of an exquisite is very expensive, being

composed of the most costly crapes or silks; his boots or shoes are of a

particular shape, and made of the richest black satin of Nankin, with

soles of a certain height; his knee caps are elegantly embroidered; his

cap and button are of the neatest cut; his pipes elegant and

high-priced; his tobacco of the best manufacture of Fokien; an English

gold watch; a tooth-pick hung at his button, with a string of valuable

pearls; and a fan from Nankin, scented with _chulan_ flowers--such are

his personal appointments. He is attended by servants in costly

liveries; and, when he meets an acquaintance, his studied manners and

ceremonial are as carefully displayed, as the airs of the most

accomplished dandy in Christian countries.

All amusements are anxiously sought after. Theatrical exhibitions

constantly take place after dinner in the houses of the rich. Cards and

dice abound every where. Besides these, they have many other sports and

games of chance, peculiar to the country. Cricket fighting and quail

fighting are very common. To make two male crickets fight, they are

placed in an earthen bowl, about five or eight inches in diameter; the

owner of each, tickles his cricket with a feather, which makes them both

run round the bowl different ways, frequently jostling one another as

they pass. After several meetings in this way, they at length become

exasperated, and fight with great fury until they literally tear each

other limb from limb.

Quails for fighting are prepared with great care. Every one has a

separate keeper, who has his bird confined in a small bag, which he

carries with him wherever he goes. The poor prisoner is rarely permitted

to see the light, except when he is fed, or it is deemed necessary for

his health; he is then held by the keeper on his hand, sometimes for

hours. When two quails are brought to fight, they are placed in a thing

like a large sieve, in the centre of a table, round which the spectators

stand to witness the battle and make their bets. Some grains of millet

seed are put into the sieve, and the quails are taken from the bags and

placed near it, opposite to each other. If they are birds of courage,

the moment one begins to eat he is attacked by the other, and they fight

hard for a few minutes. The quail that is beaten flies up, and the

conqueror remains to eat the seed. The best fights seldom last more than

five minutes. Immense sums of money are lost and won on them, for they

are very uncertain; sometimes one quail has been known to win several

hundred battles, and then suddenly to be beaten by a new and untutored

bird.

Next to quail fighting, the flower-boats occupy most of a Chinese

gentleman's leisure hours. They are the residence of women, generally of

agreeable conversation and lively manners, but not of the purest

character. The vessels are so called, from having the sides, windows,

and doors, carved in flowers, and painted green and gilded. They are

divided into rooms, which are well ventilated and fitted up with

verandas, galleries, and all the conveniences of comfort, luxury, and

dissipation. The gentlemen go to them in the afternoon; parties are

formed; they all sit round a large table, well furnished, and eat,

drink, sing, and play, until morning. It is said that from forty to

fifty thousand dollars are spent daily in the flower-boats of Canton. By

an ancient custom, the Hong-merchants there, when making their contracts

for tea, (which is generally done a year in advance,) are obliged to

invite the persons with whom they wish to contract, to partake of a

repast in one of those boats. The bargain is always easy in proportion

to the sumptuousness and splendour of the supper, during which it is

concluded; and although very expensive, is fully repaid by the

advantages gained in the contract.

When a Chinese gives a ceremonious dinner, it is done with great

splendour. Several days before, a large red paper is sent to the guests,

on which the invitation is written in the politest terms of the

language. On the day preceding the party, another invitation is sent on

rose coloured paper, to remind them of it, and to ascertain whether they

are coming. Again, on the next day, a short time before the hour

appointed, the invitation is repeated, to inform them that the feast is

prepared and awaits them. A great number of dishes are served on small

ebony tables, and dressed in the most piquant manner; there are several

courses; and, in addition to various wines, cordials of a fiery nature

are offered from time to time. When two persons wish to pledge one

another, they leave the tables, go into the middle of the room, and take

care to place the cups to their lips exactly at the same instant. They

are not apt to become intoxicated. Between the courses they rise from

the table and walk about. The most expensive delicacy they can offer is

_birds' nest soup,_ with pigeons' or plovers' eggs floating on it. The

birds' nests, so used, are formed of a mucilage supposed to be collected

from certain weeds floating on the sea, by the swallows of the Indian,

Chinese, and Pacific oceans; some of the best come from Batavia and the

Nikobar Islands; they are sold by weight, and a catty (one pound and

three quarters) of the best parts, sells for the enormous price of

forty-five to sixty dollars.

The Chinese do not appear to be governed by fixed and solid principles

of religion, such as the Christian faith, produced by conviction or

reason. They have a superstitious reverence for certain ceremonies,

rights, and ancient customs, which have prevailed for ages; and these

serve, in many respects, to cover various vices and habits which are

prevalent. They seem, however, to believe in a Supreme Being, called the

_Great Joss_, or _Yook-Chee_, represented only to the mind, and not

allowing his image to be made on earth; and they say, should any one be

rash enough to make a statue of him, he would be immediately struck

dead. He is, however, described on paper, holding the little finger of

his right hand across the first joint of the middle finger, the

fore-finger resting on the point of the little finger, and the third

finger bent round it, whilst the thumb is also bent upwards, a very

curious and difficult position to place the fingers in. They believe

that when he opens his hand, the world and mankind are to be destroyed;

and they consider all the other deities and spirits, to whom, however,

they do not pay a very great adoration, as sent by him to the world.

These are supposed to preside over rain, crops, dreams, &c., and have

various attributes, which it would require volumes to explain. The

Chinese have no regular priesthood, supported by the government; it

depends on voluntary contributions and endowments of the rich; it has

its monasteries, where numbers of both sexes devote themselves to

celibacy; but, in general, it seems, as a body, to have less influence

than in most countries. In all rich families, there is a shing-shang, or

astrologer, who is consulted on all occasions; he is the tutor, and

generally the writer; and thus becomes a man of much importance. The

funerals are objects of great attention; and, where it is possible,

great expense is bestowed on them; every care is taken to choose a lucky

spot for interment, and the tombs are made very splendid.

These are a few of the facts we have noted with regard to the Chinese,

in perusing Mr. Dobell's volumes; and but a very few. Those who are

desirous to obtain a fuller account of the country, manners, and state

of society of that singular people, than our limited space will permit

us to give, may turn to them with great profit. He has evidently devoted

much attention to the collection of information; and, resulting as it

does, from the observations of a number of years, with an opportunity of

correcting and comparing accounts and impressions, received at various

times and under various circumstances, we believe that just and great

reliance may be placed on it. We must now leave China, however, and

follow him on his expedition to the north of Asia.

Leaving Canton, and proceeding along the western shore of the Pacific

ocean, he landed at the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, on the 25th

of August, 1812. He describes the bay of the Avatcha, which forms the

port, as forty versts in circumference, encompassed by forest-covered

mountains and extensive meadows. It is so capacious and safe, that large

fleets may securely lie there; and it affords a combination of

picturesque beauty, grandeur, and security, rarely equalled in other

parts of the globe. Immense tracts of low ground extend along the outlet

of the river Avatcha, which present the appearance of having been banked

out in former times, to prevent their being overflowed. So numerous,

indeed, are these embankments, and so far beyond the necessities or

ability of such a population as the present, to erect, that they are by

many of the inhabitants supposed to be natural mounds. This conjecture,

however, Mr. Dobell was convinced was incorrect, from repeated

observation.

"Evident marks remain," he observes, "where the earth has been

dug out and thrown up; the holes, which were very deep, are now

ponds, whilst the shallower ones have been filled up with soft

mud, and have a thick surface of turf upon them, resembling

what is called a shaking bog. There is no doubt of their being

the work of man; but when and how it was performed was what I

could not discover. The Kamtchatdales themselves could have had

no inducement to undertake such a laborious task; as, when they

were first known, they had neither horned cattle nor horses.

They were probably made after the conquest of that country by

the Russians, when domestic animals were introduced; as they

are evidently intended to preserve the low lands for hay and

pasture. This has been so well accomplished, that the greater

part of them are still actually in good order."

After passing a few days at Avatcha, and gratifying the inhabitants with

a ball on board of his vessel, Mr. Dobell set out, on the first of

September, for Nijna Kamtchatsk, a town seven hundred and fifty miles

distant, the residence of the governor, whom it was necessary for him to

see, in order to make the commercial arrangements he desired. He

ascended the Avatcha river, the banks of which are for the most part

composed of fine meadow land, or hills thickly covered with birch. Early

on the following day, the party left their boats, and proceeded on

horseback over two or three very steep mountains, and amid clouds of

mosquitoes, which tormented them exceedingly. The houses at which they

stopped, from time to time, were in general black, smoky, and dirty, but

the inhabitants kind and hospitable beyond measure, though poor. The

universal food is fish--men, dogs, bears, wolves, and birds of prey, all

live upon them, and indeed they abound, in quantities fully sufficient

to supply all; they are seen in the streams sporting about by thousands,

and even the shores are covered with dead ones thrown up by the current.

The dwelling of the Kamtchatdales is of two kinds--for the summer and

the winter. The former, which is called a _ballagan,_ is a building of a

conical form, composed of poles fourteen or fifteen feet long, laid up

from the edge of a circle, ten or twelve feet in diameter, the tops

meeting at the centre, and tied there by ozier twigs or ropes. The

outside of these is covered with birch or pine bark, over which there is

sometimes a thatching of coarse grass, fastened down by other poles and

oziers. This kind of hut is generally erected in the centre of a square

platform, elevated ten or twelve feet, upon large posts planted deep in

the ground. Poles are again placed in rows under the building and

between the posts, where they dry their fish, which the hut serves to

cover from the weather, as well as to store and preserve them when

dried. The door of the ballagan is always opposite to the water; the

fire-place on a bed of earth outside, at one corner of the platform. A

large piece of timber, with notches cut in it instead of steps, and

placed against the platform at an angle of forty-five degrees, is the

method of ascending and descending, particularly unsafe and inconvenient

for those not accustomed to so uncouth a staircase.

The winter house, or _jourta_, is a sort of subterranean dwelling. It

generally consists of a frame of timber, put into a square hole four or

five feet deep, and within the frame a quantity of stakes are set close

together, inclining a little inwards, and the earth thrown against them.

The stakes are left round on the outside, but hewn within, and the top

is framed over in the same manner and arched and supported by

stanchions. In the centre of the roof is a square hole, which serves the

double purpose of a door and a chimney, the inhabitants passing in or

out by means of a piece of timber with notches cut in it, such as we

have before described. The top and sides of the jourta are covered

outside with a quantity of earth and sodded. At one end, there is a

large hole with a stopper to it, which is opened when the oven is

heating, to force the smoke out at the door. When once heated, and the

stopper closed, jourtas are warm, and, were it not for the smoke, would

be comfortable. The description of such subterranean habitations, and of

the lives led by these rude people during their long and bitter winters,

cannot be read without reviving in the memory those lines of Virgil,

which describe a race similar in all respects--even to the acid liquors

they distil; but dwelling in regions far less remote from the warm skies

of Italy.--

"Ipsi in defossis specubus secura sub alta

Otia agunt terra; congestaque robora, totasque

Advolvere focis ulmos, ignique dedere.

Hic noctem ludo ducunt, et pocula laeti

Fermento atque acidis imitantur vitea sorbis.

Talis hyperboreo septem subjecta trioni

Gens effraena virum Riphaeo tunditur Euro

Et pecudum fulvis velantur corpora setis."

The increase of civilization, wealth, and intercourse with other

nations, has however effected a great change in the mode of life among

this remote people. Cottages, made generally of logs, are substituted

for these ruder mansions, especially in the neighbourhood of the

sea-ports; and a traveller occasionally meets with much that reminds him

of fairer climes, and a state of society less primitive.

"On reaching Sherrom, a cottage was pointed out to us as the

habitation of the Toyune, the outward appearance of which was

too engaging not to excite anticipations of good cheer within.

As it was a low building, I put my head into one of the windows

that was open, and was quite surprised to see so neat and

clean a dwelling in that country. The name of the owner, who

was Toyune of Sherrom, was Conon Merlin. He and his wife were

absent fishing, but we were not less hospitably received by his

daughter and daughter-in-law, two clean dressed pretty young

women, who welcomed us with their smiles, and made us imagine,

that, instead of Kamtchatka, we had got into the land of

enchantment. Every thing about them seemed in unison with their

appearance. The tables and stools were of poplar white as snow;

no vermin was to be seen on the walls, which were hewn smooth

and whitened; and the whole presented a picture of neatness,

cleanliness, and comfort, such as we had not yet seen in

Kamtchatka. In fifteen minutes after our arrival, a refreshing

cup of tea was prepared, with fresh butter, cream, and milk;

and their being served up in so neat a manner, made them taste

more delicious than usual. Our hostess being a well-behaved

young woman, we requested her to do the honours of the table,

which she performed with the utmost cheerfulness and

politeness, just as if she had been bred in a city. In the

evening the old Toyune and his wife returned from fishing, and

seemed quite overjoyed to see us, as such guests, they said,

were not common; and they certainly took uncommon pains to

treat and to please us. The old man appeared between sixty and

seventy years of age, with a long white beard and moustachios,

which, added to a mild, sensible, and prepossessing

countenance, gave him a most sage and respectable appearance,

and personified to my imagination the wise enchanter whose name

he bore. Conon Merlin had been educated by the famous Mr.

Evashkin, a Russian nobleman, who was banished to Kamtchatka

during the reign of Catharine II., and is since dead; but who

was well known to former travellers in Kamtchatka. Our Toyune,

therefore, could write and read Russian well, knew most of the

dialects of Kamtchatka, and was certainly the most intelligent

man I ever met among the natives."

On the morning of the 13th, soon after leaving the village of Klutchee,

they beheld the majestic volcano of Klootchefsky, rearing its awful and

flaming head far above the clouds. This huge mountain, towering to the

skies, is a perfect cone, decreasing gradually from its enormous base to

the summit; its top is whitened by perpetual snow, and the flame and

smoke, for ever issuing from its crater, are seen shading the sky at the

distance of many miles. Sometimes quantities of ashes are thrown out, so

fine as to impregnate the atmosphere, and be inhaled in breathing; and,

it is said, that occasionally a white clammy substance, resembling,

perhaps, the honey dew elsewhere observed, has flowed from the crater,

sweet to the taste, and very adhesive when touched. Altogether, this

mountain is one of the most picturesque and sublime of the volcanoes

described by travellers, though from its remote situation it has been,

and probably long will be, visited but by few.

Mr. Dobell reached Nijna Kamtchatsk on the 14th of September, and was

most kindly received and treated by the governor, General Petrowsky,

with whom he made all the arrangements he desired, and, after a visit of

six days, returned to St. Peter and St. Paul. He describes the town of

Nijna Kamtchatsk as one of eighty or ninety houses, and between four and

five hundred inhabitants. Its situation is not good, the ground being

low and moist. It is on the bank of the river Kamtchatka, about

thirty-five versts from the sea. Since the period we allude to, the

seat of government has been removed to St. Peter and St. Paul, and the

town has lost nearly all its population, there being but five or six

families left there.

On his way back he again visited his kind host, the Toyune of Sherrom,

whom he found laying in his winter stock of provisions, which offered a

good example of the economy, wants, and supplies of a Kamtchatdale

family. He assured Mr. Dobell that himself and his sons had killed

twelve bears, eleven mountain sheep, several reindeer, a large number of

geese, ducks, and tiel, and a few swans and pheasants. "In November,"

said he, "we shall catch many hares and partridges; and I have one

thousand fresh salmon, lately caught, and now frozen for our winter's

stock. Added to this, in my cellar there is a good supply of cabbages,

turnips, and potatoes, with various sorts of berries, and about thirty

poods of sarannas, the greater part of which we have stolen from the

field mice, who collect them in large quantities for the winter." In the

spring, the Kamtchatdales supply themselves with the skins of the hair

seals and other sea animals, from whose fat also they obtain oil. The

hunting of these is therefore a matter of no small importance, and

carries many of the Kamtchatdales down to the coast. It is accompanied

with great fatigue and occasional risk.

"The Toyune of Malka," says Mr. Dobell, "related to me a

curious adventure that occurred to him and two of his friends.

They repaired in the latter part of April to their usual

hunting place, where they found the sea still covered with ice

for a considerable extent. Each had a sledge and five dogs, and

although the wind blew strongly off shore, they did not

hesitate to go on the ice in search of seals, as it seemed

firmly attached to the shore, and they observed some

Kamtchatdales hunting on it farther up the coast. They

discovered some seals at a considerable distance out, and

repaired thither to kill them. Already had they killed two, and

were preparing to tie them with thongs on their sledges, when

one of the party, who staid a little behind, came to them of a

sudden, crying that the ice was moving, and that all the other

Kamtchatdales had gone to the shore! This news alarmed them so

much, that they left their seals on the ice, and seating

themselves on their sankas or sledges, pushed their dogs at

full speed to regain the shore. Unfortunately they arrived too

late; the ice had already separated from the land to the extent

of a hundred yards; and as it began to break into pieces, they

were obliged to return to the part that appeared to them the

strongest and thickest. As the wind now blew extremely hard,

they were soon driven out to sea, where the swell being very

heavy, the ice began to break again all round them, leaving

them at last on a solid clump, from forty to fifty feet in

circumference, that was of great thickness and kept entire.

They were now out of sight of land, driven before a gale of

wind and a heavy sea, and their icy vessel rolled so dreadfully

that they had much difficulty to keep themselves on its

surface. However, being furnished with ostals, (poles pointed

with iron,) they made holes and planted them firmly in the ice;

and then tied themselves, their dogs, and sankas, fast to them.

Without this precaution, the Toyune said they would all have

been thrown into the sea. They were sea-sick and disheartened;

but nevertheless, said Spiridon, (the Toyune,) 'I had hopes,

and I told my comrades I thought we should be thrown on some

coast.' It was now two days they had been at sea, and towards

evening the wind abated a little, the weather cleared off, and

they saw land not far off, which one of them, who had been

formerly at the Kurile islands, knew to be Poromochin, and

they now fully expected to be drifted on its shores. However,

as the night approached, the wind changed to the very opposite

direction, and blew even more violently than before. The clump

of ice was tossed about in a most uneasy manner, and several

times the ostals and the thongs were in danger of being broken

by the violent concussion of the waves against the ice.

"All that night and all the next day the storm continued with

unceasing violence. On the morning of the fourth day, before

daylight, they found that their clump had been driven amongst

other cakes of ice, and was closely surrounded on all sides.

When the day broke, how great was their joy and astonishment to

perceive themselves near the land, and within about twenty

versts of the place whence they had been driven! They had

suffered much from thirst, as they found the ice salt as well

as the water. Not having either eaten or drunk during all the

time, they found themselves so weak that they had the greatest

difficulty in preparing their sledges, and in getting from the

ice to the land. The moment they landed, they offered up their

prayers and thanks to God. Spiridon charged his companions not

to eat snow or drink much water at a time, although they were

almost dying with thirst; as they could soon get to an ostrog

that was only about twenty or thirty versts distant. They had

not proceeded far before Spiridon saw the tracks of some

reindeer; he therefore made his companions stop, and, taking

his gun, walked gently round a high bluff on the coast, whither

the deer had gone, and had the good fortune to shoot one of

them. His companions no sooner heard the noise of the gun than

they came to him. They cut the throat of the deer immediately,

and drank his blood while warm. Spiridon said that they felt

their strength revived almost immediately after drinking the

blood. Having given some of the meat to the dogs, they rested

themselves about an hour, and then set off for the ostrog,

where they arrived safely. One of them, who indulged too much

in eating at first, died a short time after; the other two

survived; but Spiridon said he had ever since been afflicted

with a complaint in his breast and shortness of breath."

On the 21st of October the winter set in, and made the travelling much

more difficult and uncomfortable. The cold, however, in Kamtchatka, is

by no means so severe as is generally supposed. About the sea coast, the

thermometer rarely passes 15 deg. to 20 deg. of Reaumur, and in the interior,

seldom exceeds 20 deg. to 25 deg.; and even this but for a short time. The

ordinary cold is about 8 deg. to 10 deg..

After remaining nearly three months at St. Peter and St. Paul, Mr.

Dobell set out on his expedition to Russia. He left the former place on

the 15th of January, with the determination to proceed along the

Aleuters or north-east coast of the peninsula of Kamtchatka, thence

cross over to Kammina at the head of the sea of Ochotsk, and proceed

along the eastern shore of that large bay to the town of Ochotsk itself.

He was accompanied by two Chinese servants, and proceeded in sledges

drawn by dogs. He had frequent occasions to confirm the sentiments he

had previously entertained of the hospitable and honest character of the

inhabitants of the peninsula of Kamtchatka; and he found the climate and

natural resources of the country far superior to what he had been led to

expect. He combats the opinion, long prevalent, that it is a barren and

desolate country, depopulated of the aborigines through the extreme

poverty of its resources; and contends that few parts of the world would

more amply repay the industry of the inhabitants, if well peopled and

wisely governed.

The dogs displayed all the sagacity, perseverance, and swiftness for

which they have been celebrated by travellers in northern regions, and

he had frequent opportunities of observing the instinct or skill with

which they pursued their way in the midst of the most violent storms,

when every trace of the road had disappeared. He gives them a decided

preference over the reindeer, though he states that the latter are more

fleet, when put to their full speed. They are not docile however. When

the snows are deep, and the roads difficult, if the reindeer be pressed

to exert himself he becomes restive and stubborn, and neither beating

nor coaxing will move him. He will lie down and remain in one spot for

several hours, until hunger presses him forward; and if at the second

attempt he is again embarrassed, he will lie down and perish in the snow

for want of food. Reindeer consequently require a great deal of care and

management, and should never be treated too roughly, or they become

totally unmanageable. Besides, great attention must be paid to them in

summer, and their pastures often changed, or they contract diseases and

die fast.

At Veyteway, the most northern point on the eastern coast visited by Mr.

Dobell, he found a Toyune who had come a hundred and fifty versts, from

motives of curiosity, to meet him. Though he had never before seen any

one adopting the customs of civilized life, he behaved with great

propriety, and did not seem in the least embarrassed. Some of the trunks

which were covered with lackered leather and full of brass nails,

excited his astonishment, and indeed proved a fund of amusement for the

natives on all the road. Bets were made constantly as to the number of

nails on each trunk, and they were counted over and over, a hundred

times, with the greatest care. From this point Mr. Dobell struck across

the peninsula, and reached Kammina, at the head of the sea of Ochotsk,

on the 24th of March.

In proceeding southwardly along the coast, the hardiness of his dogs was

strongly put to the test. An insufficient supply of provisions had been

laid in, and some time before they reached Igiga, the first town where a

fresh stock could be obtained, they were reduced to an allowance of half

a fish each, daily. When the dried fish were consumed, they were fed on

reindeer meat and biscuit, of which but a very small supply was left;

but it refreshed and strengthened them, so that one of the party, whose

dogs were strongest, was enabled to go on more rapidly to Igiga, to beg

from the commandant assistance and food for the rest of the party. When

the poor creatures who were left perceived the dogs coming to assist

them, nothing could exceed their joy. They sprang into the air, barked

aloud, and set forward with such eagerness to meet them, that restraint

was impossible. When they came up, they jumped and fawned upon them, and

licked them with an expression of pleasure and satisfaction which it was

impossible to mistake. As they approached the town, it was utterly in

vain to hold them back, they set off at full speed, and if it had not

been for the assistance of several of the inhabitants, who ran and

caught hold of them, the sledges would have been upset, and every thing

broken to pieces.

Leaving Igiga, Mr. Dobell continued his journey by Yamsk and Towisk,

through the country of the Tongusees. He found these people active,

persevering, and obliging; those whom he employed performing every sort

of service with cheerfulness. They are men of small stature, slightly

made, and resembling the northern Chinese in features. Their

countenances generally were indicative of a tractable mild disposition,

and bore a strong Asiatic cast of character, which is indeed found

amongst all the natives throughout Siberia. Their fidelity, however, was

not on an equality with their other good characteristics, as our

travellers had soon an opportunity of learning, by an event which placed

their lives in most imminent peril. The provisions laid in at Towisk

were nearly consumed, and the time at which they should have reached the

next town had arrived, when the native guides confessed that they had

mistaken the road, and there was every prospect of the whole party

perishing in the desert. What were the feelings of Mr. Dobell, when

awaking one morning, in this situation, he found that the Tongusees were

no longer with him; the rascals had gone off in the night, not leaving a

single deer for food, and deserting a party of five in number, all

strangers, on one of the highest mountains of Siberia, in a wild and

uninhabited country! In this emergency Mr. Dobell displayed great

firmness, resolution, and all the energy and resources of an experienced

traveller; indeed the portion of his volumes which contains the account

of his escape from the perilous situation in which he was left, and of

the sufferings he endured, and the expedients to which he was obliged to

resort, is peculiarly and highly interesting. With the aid of a partial

map of Kamtchatka, and a pocket compass, he set out to regain the sea

coast, from which they were, as he supposed, not very far distant.

Leaving all their clothes, and every article with which they could

possibly dispense, they put the rest of their baggage on two sleds,

which they dragged with them. They limited their nourishment to the

least possible quantity of food, drinking tea, of which they had a small

supply, twice in twenty-four hours, and in the morning taking some thin

rice water, with a small lump of chocolate each, to make it palatable.

They were obliged to construct bridges of logs over numerous rivulets,

swelled with the snows, which crossed their path, and they were exposed

to a succession of furious storms. On the twentieth day they arrived at

what they supposed a long narrow lake, and determined there to pass the

night. Having left his companions to make what preparations for so doing

their wretched situation afforded, Mr. Dobell went to examine the lake.

On approaching the bank, he discovered two small ducks, quite near the

shore, and had the good fortune to shoot them both at one shot. "Running

to the water to pick them up," he says, "God only knows the

inexpressible joy that filled my heart, at beholding the water move, and

finding that we were on the banks of a large river." They all set to

work actively the next day, and had soon completed a raft on which they

embarked, and trusted themselves to the current to reach the ocean, so

long and eagerly desired.

"We had" says Mr. Dobell, "a most unpleasant time, but anxious

to arrive at the ocean, would not lie by--particularly as the

stream increased greatly in rapidity, and hurried us along with

considerable swiftness. About one o'clock on the 10th of June,

although we were nearly in the middle of the river, which was

here upwards of a verst wide, we were suddenly seized by a

whirlpool, and in spite of our utmost efforts, having nothing

but poles to guide the raft, were drawn violently towards the

left bank, and forced under some large trees which had been

undermined by the water and hung over the surface of the

stream, the roots still holding them fast to the shore. I

perceived the danger to which we were exposed, and called out

to every one to lie flat on his face and hold fast to the

baggage. The branches were so thick it was impossible for all

to escape, and there being barely room to admit the raft under

them, they swept off the two Chinese, the Karaikee, my tin-box

with all my papers and valuables, our soup-kettle, &c. Nothing

now remained but a small tea-kettle, and a few other things

that happened to be tied fast with thongs. The Karaikee and one

of the Chinese seized hold of the branches that swept them off,

and held their heads above water, but the youngest of the

Chinese having floated away with the current, the Cossack and

myself had the greatest difficulty in paddling the raft up to

him. We came just in time to poke our poles down after him as

he sunk for the third time, which he fortunately seized, and we

drew him upon the raft half drowned. As the current was running

at the rate of six or seven miles an hour, we were carried more

than half a verst down before we gained the shore; the other

Chinese and the Karaikee crying out for assistance. I ran up

the shore as quickly as possible, taking a long pole with me,

and leaving the Cossack to take care of the raft and the young

Chinese. When I arrived at the spot, my Chinese cook informed

me he had seized my tin-box with one hand, and was so tired of

holding with the other, that if I did not come soon to his

assistance he must leave it to the mercy of the current. Whilst

I attempted to walk out on the body of the tree whose branches

they were holding, one of the roots broke and very nearly

separated it from the shore; I was therefore obliged to jump

off and stride to one that was nearly two feet under water,

hauling myself along by the branches of the others, and at

length I got near enough to give the Chinese the pole. He

seized fast hold and I pulled him between two branches,

enabling him to get a leg over one and keep his body above

water. Thus placed he tied the tin-box with his handkerchief to

the pole, and I got it safely ashore. I was now obliged to

return and assist the Karaikee, who held by some branches far

out, and where there were no others near enough for him to

reach in order to draw himself in. After half an hour's labour

I got them both on the bank, neither of them knowing how to

swim, and both much exhausted by the cold, and the difficulty

of holding so long against a rapid current."

They continued for several days longer buffeting with the stream, and

exposed to all the inclemencies of the weather. Their food depended on

the scanty supplies of wild fowl they could shoot, and their stock of

cooking utensils was reduced to a small tea-kettle and the lid of the

tin box saved by the Chinese.

Between two and three o'clock in the afternoon of the seventh day since

they had embarked on board their frail vessel, and nearly a month since

they had been deserted on the mountains by the treacherous Tongusees,

they found themselves in a fine wide channel, with a moderate current,

and on a beach not far below descried a man and two boys mending a

canoe. The effect the sight of human beings had upon them was deeply

interesting. Every soul shed tears of joy, and when the natives

approached to assist them in landing, they were unable for some minutes

to reply to their inquiries, and could only answer by hasty signs. The

elder person proved to be a Yakut who had seen Mr. Dobell before; as

soon as he recognised him, he sprung into the raft, clasped him in his

arms, and shed tears in abundance, exclaiming "thank God, thank God! you

are all saved!" He informed them that the Tongusees having returned and

confessed their treachery, an old chief living near Towisk had

despatched his son with a party in search of them, but that every one

there had given them up for lost, knowing how difficult it was to

procure food on those deserted plains and mountains in the spring of the

year. The miraculous escape of the party, after having been left in such

a wilderness, was indeed a matter of surprise to every one; and they had

particular reason to rejoice in having taken the route they did, as they

found on inquiry that had they pursued any other they must infallibly

have perished.

After remaining three days with the hospitable people whom they so

fortunately encountered, and recovering their baggage which had been

left on the mountain, by means of the party sent in search of them from

Towisk, they resumed their journey, and reached Ochotsk without further

accident, on the 4th of July.

Ochotsk, the capital of the Russian province of the same name, which

embraces the most easterly portion of that vast empire, is a town

composed of between two and three hundred houses, and about two thousand

inhabitants. It is situated in north latitude 59 deg. 20' 22", and east

longitude from Greenwich 143 deg. 20' 23", on a small island or sand bank,

three versts and three hundred paces in length, and two hundred in

breadth, where the town stands. The admiralty, marine stores, magazines,

and workshops, were examined by Mr. Dobell, and found to be disposed in

perfectly good order, and prepared for service in the best possible

manner. In the admiralty, there are a school, and shops for coopers,

turners, and blockmakers. There are also large forges, ropewalks, and

all the establishments necessary for a complete naval arsenal. Whilst

Mr. Dobell was there, a large cable was prepared for the frigate Diana,

in the course of four or five days, and appeared quite as well made as a

European cable. The flour magazines are large, and well supplied by

Yakut convoys, which constantly arrive and discharge their loads there.

These convoys consist generally of ten to thirteen horses, having seldom

more than two men to take care of them. Each horse carries on his back

six pood weight of rye flour, packed in two leathern bags, called in

Russian _sumas_, impenetrable to all sorts of weather, and extremely

convenient for carriage, hanging one on each side of the horse. These

bags are of green hide, without the hair; the flour is forced as tightly

as possible into them while they are damp, and when dry the surface is

as hard as stone. On opening them, the flour, for about half an inch

deep, is attached in a hard cake to the bag, and, if originally good, is

preserved in a very perfect state, and will keep for a great length of

time. Some of them have been known to remain all the winter under the

snow without being damaged; nor does it seem possible to carry over land

this important article of life, by any other method so safely and

conveniently as in sumas. Notwithstanding, however, all the attention

which is thus exhibited on the part of the Russian government to make

Ochotsk a complete and valuable naval station; and the care paid to its

arrangement and furnishing supplies, there yet exists an insuperable

obstacle to all their efforts, from the fact that it has not a good

port. No vessel of any great burthen, carrying guns, can enter or be

wintered there, without incurring the risk of being bilged by the ice of

the river Ochota, which flows into or forms the harbour.

On the 19th of July Mr. Dobell left Ochotsk. He now turned inland, and

leaving the shores of the Pacific ocean, directed his course westerly to

Yakutsk, which was distant six hundred and fifty miles. He was

accompanied a short distance by a young officer named Ivan Ivanovitch

Kruz, who was forest-master at the first station called Maitah,

fifty-four versts off. Such a companion was not less unexpected than

agreeable, in so remote a corner of the world. He was a very good

botanist, and understood French and Latin; a modest, sensible, genteel

young man, and what must appear a little singular, perfectly happy and

satisfied with his situation. Even in those wild regions he filled up

his leisure hours with study and the chase, and said that he never found

the time hang heavy on his hands.

On the road they met many convoys of horses carrying provisions to

Ochotsk; and were obliged to keep a strict watch, in order to guard

against the depredations of the Yakuts, by whom they were conducted.

These people are in the habit of stealing horses for food, whenever a

good opportunity offers on the road, being fonder of horse flesh than of

any other. When they get possession of a horse, they contrive to decamp

suddenly, and ride several versts off, where they kill the animal, bury

his bones, and conceal the flesh in their bags, before the person robbed

discovers the theft. They are men generally of small stature, light, and

very active when they choose to exert themselves; indefatigable on the

road, and surpassing every other people in conducting and taking care of

horses. In features they resemble strongly the Chinese of Nankin. The

Tongusees, on the other hand, bear a striking resemblance to the Tartars

who conquered China. The Yakuts and Tongusees however wear very much the

same costume. The hair of the women, which hangs in two or three braids

behind, is stuck over with small copper or silver plates, more or less

rich in proportion to the fortune of the wearer. Sometimes a silver or

copper plate is placed on the forehead. They occasionally wear a close

cap, adorned likewise with plates and beads, and often ornament their

boots with beads of various colours, having much the appearance of the

work on the wampum belts of our Indians. The dress of the Tongusee men

is a close coat, fitting tight round the body, with skirts reaching half

way down the legs, and resembling a frock coat. It is composed of deer

or dog skin, with the hair inward. In very cold weather they wear a

shorter coat over this, as well as parkas and kokclankas or riding

coats, which are nothing more than loose jackets or cloaks of skin, with

sleeves reaching below the knees. The Yakut dress is made in the same

way, but usually of horse or cow hide.

On the 25th, the party crossed the ridge of mountains which extends from

the great central chain of Asia, towards the north-east, and divides the

waters falling into the sea of Ochotsk, from those flowing through the

more central parts of Siberia, towards the west and the north. On the

western side of the ridge they passed a large lake, the source of the

river Udama, surrounded by mountains, and three or four versts in

length. The Udama is a fine river, and though not abounding either with

fish or water in summer, is plentifully supplied with both in spring and

autumn, and then navigable for boats of a considerable size. It falls

into the Maia; the Maia into the Aldan; the Aldan into the Lena, one of

whose branches ascends to within three hundred and fifty versts of

Irkutsk, and which flows into the Northern ocean. A navigation is thus

afforded through the very centre of Siberia for more than two thousand

miles. It is also well adapted to the introduction of steam navigation;

and flat bottomed boats drawing little water might be successfully used

on most of these streams during a considerable portion of the year. The

adoption of such a system would tend immensely to the improvement of a

vast country, where the population is thin, but of which the natural

resources and advantages are very great. It is a mistake to suppose, as

is usually done, that it is an ungrateful wilderness, fit only for the

reception of criminals, or the home of wandering savages; no where is

nature more profusely grand and magnificent than in Siberia; and she has

offered many attractions to human industry and improvement in those

remote regions. It cannot be denied that there are some parts totally

incorrigible, owing to the severity of climate, bad soil, and other

causes; but there is ample testimony that by far the largest portion of

that country possesses resources, soil, and climate, very superior to

what is generally believed, and that it would advance rapidly if well

governed and better peopled.

On the 5th of August Mr. Dobell reached the river Aldan, one of the

principal tributaries of the Lena, and found it a very deep stream,

about a verst and a half wide, abounding with fish. On the western shore

he saw several jourtas beautifully situated, and on inquiry was informed

they contained a colony of banished men, sent there by order of the

government. They appeared very well off, having comfortable houses, with

cattle, an abundant supply of fish, and good pastures, so that they

could never suffer from want, unless too indolent to secure the

necessaries of life. They call themselves Possellencies or colonists,

but are stiled Neshchastnie Loodie, or unfortunate people, by the

natives, who avoid, even by a name, to remind them of their unhappy

fate.

"Banishment, then," remarks Mr. Dobell, "to such a country as

Siberia, is certainly no such terrible infliction, except to a

Russian, who, perhaps, of all beings upon earth, possesses the

strongest attachment to the soil on which he grows--taking root

like the trees that surround him, and pining when transplanted

to another spot, even though it should be a neighbouring

province, better than his own. Too much praise cannot be

bestowed on the humane system adopted by the Russian government

in saving the lives of criminals without distinction, and

transporting them to Siberia, to augment the population of a

fine country, much in want of inhabitants, where their morals

are strictly watched, and where they soon become useful, good

people. Death, in fact, is so transitory a punishment, that

unless a man has religion, and a perfect idea of rewards and

penalties in a world to come, it may have no terrors for him,

nor will its anticipation ever prevent the commission of crimes

so well as the idea of banishment and long suffering. I would

not be thought to be the advocate of cruelty; on the contrary,

I warmly espouse the principle of producing a perfect

contrition and change of sentiments and actions in the

criminal, ere we send him into the presence of his God. To

bring about this in an effectual manner, and be satisfied it

springs from a thorough conviction of his error, we must not

confine him in chains, with a priest praying at his side, until

the moment he is launched into eternity. He should be made, as

he generally is in Siberia, so far a free agent, as to have the

power of again doing wrong; else his firmness and resolution

are never put to the test; nor can that repentance be called

sincere, which springs from the imperious necessity of

immediately making his peace with his offended God, before

whose awful tribunal his merciless government sends him

suddenly to appear, with all his crimes fresh upon him. There

are certainly instances in Siberia, where convicts have again

committed crimes, and some of them even murder, and such are

confined to the mines for life; but there are few examples of

this sort, and the majority of the convicts acquire habits of

industry and good conduct superior to the same class of people

in Russia. Having seen the good effects of the Russian penal

code, what I say on the subject is no more than what truth and

justice demand; and I wish, that for humanity's sake, so bright

an example, which sheds a ray of unsullied glory on her

sovereignty, may be followed with equal success by every nation

of the earth."

The route of Mr. Dobell continued to lead him through the country of the

Yakuts, a pastoral and industrious people, sufficient in numbers to

relieve his mind from the painful idea that so fine a country should be

destitute of inhabitants. Their whole attention is turned to the rearing

of horned cattle and horses. Milk, prepared in various ways, is their

principal sustenance; fish and water-fowl they obtain in abundance,

except in the depth of winter; but pigs, sheep, or poultry, are never

seen. On the 14th of August, he descended into an immense and fertile

plain, through which he beheld the noble Lena flowing along, and reached

the town of Yakutsk early in the evening.

This town was, at that time, composed of two hundred and seventy houses,

and two thousand five hundred Russian inhabitants, besides a very

considerable population of Yakuts, in and about it; since then, however,

it is much increased and improved in every way. As regards climate, it

is in winter the coldest spot in all Siberia, the frost often exceeding

40 deg. of Reaumur; the average heat of summer is not beyond 16 deg., though

there are periods at which it is as hot as in the torrid zone. The

public buildings are well constructed, and kept in excellent order.

There is an ancient citadel of wood, built by the Cossacks nearly two

hundred years ago, which still forms a strong and good defence; and

affords evidence of the courage, perseverance, and intelligence, of the

conquerors of Siberia, who, with a handful of men, could erect such a

fortress in the heart of an enemy's country, and during their daily

attacks.

At Yakutsk, Mr. Dobell fell into the track of the carrying trade over

land, which is pursued to so immense an extent through the Russian

empire. The equipage, consisting of the pack-saddles, mats, girths, &c.,

is the manufacture of the Yakuts themselves, for the most part, and

though exceedingly light, is not so constructed as to enable the horse

to carry his burthen with ease. From this circumstance, great numbers of

horses are lost in their long journeys. The Yakuts, however, are

themselves excellent grooms, and, in general, kind and attentive to

their animals. They seldom beat them, and many instances are exhibited

of strong attachment between them. It is so much so, that a herd of

horses will not proceed without their master, should he stop and leave

them. They are turned out to feed at night, and are always collected in

the morning by hallooing to them. Should any of them get out of

hearing, the Yakut jumps on one of the others, who is sure to find his

companions in a very short time. When the Yakut calls, the first horse

that hears answers by neighing, and immediately the whole herd begin to

neigh and run to the keeper.

Mr. Dobell speaks of the society of Yakutsk as hospitable, kind, and

gay. He was at several balls; found the belles well-mannered, and their

dress, like that of their fair countrywomen farther west, an object of

peculiar study. He describes the ceremonies of a Siberian wedding, which

may amuse the votaries of Hymen, whose matrimonial customs are varied by

half the circumference of the globe.

"In the evening, the Governor waited on me, and invited me to

accompany him to a house, to see a ceremony performed,

previously to a wedding that was to take place the next day. We

repaired to the house, where we found a large party of

gentlemen and ladies assembled. The bride and her attendants

occupied one end of the room, near a large table, on which were

placed fruits, cakes, wines, &c. Tea and coffee were then

served. Afterwards, I was called to look at a procession from

an opposite building or store, called in this country an

_anbar_, where every sort of provisions, effects, &c. are kept.

I saw several low, four-wheeled vehicles, each drawn by a

single ox, loaded with furniture, bedding, clothing, &c. &c.

for the new married couple. Lights were carried before them,

and a number of young girls, assembled near the door of the

anbar, sang in concert, as each vehicle was loaded with the

effects of the bride. This ended, the party returned to the

house, when dancing commenced, and was kept up with spirit the

whole night. Before quitting the house, the parents of the

young bridegroom requested me to come the following morning,

and witness the ceremony of his taking leave of them,

previously to his going to church. At twelve o'clock, on the

22d, we attended at the father's house, where a number of the

friends of the bridegroom were collected: several large tables

were laid for dinner, and at the principal one, near the

images, which in a Russian house are always at the eastern

corner of the room, sat the bridegroom and his attendants. A

female relative, representing the bride, was placed in the

chair on the left hand of the bridegroom; and the father and

mother sat at the opposite side of the table. Three dishes of

cold meat were placed before the principal attendant, and wine

and watky being at the same time handed round, he cut a large

cross on the first one, placing it aside; then the second, then

the third, in the same way; and, at the cutting of each, wine

and watky were handed round to the company, who rose, and drank

to the wedding party. Nothing was eaten, this being merely a

ceremony to prepare the feast for the young couple when they

should return from the church. After this, the bridegroom went

round to the opposite side of the table, holding the image of

the Virgin in his hand, and crossed himself on his knees, and

bowed his head three times to the ground, before his father,

who, when he rose, took the image from him, kissed him, and

crossed him with it on his head. The same homage was paid to

his mother, on which she delivered the image to another person,

who preceded the bridegroom and his party to the church, where

they met the bride and her attendants; and the couple were then

led to the altar, and united in the holy bands of wedlock, by

the Protopope, or Chief of the Clergy. The ceremony resembles

that of the Catholic church, except that, towards the close,

the priest places a hymeneal crown on the heads of the man and

woman, and they walk three times round a table, where lie the

cross and the Bible. This part of the proceeding is regarded as

alternately binding them in strict allegiance to each other

during the rest of their lives. There are also two rings used,

which are exchanged, from the man to the woman, during the

ceremony. The whole party now returned to the house of the

bridegroom's father, where a repast was prepared for them,

resembling all large entertainments of this sort. The healths

of the principal persons of the place were drunk, and followed

by a salute of three guns after each toast. The evening was

crowned with an illumination, and a ball, at which, as a

stranger, I had the honour of leading off the bride."

At Yakutsk Mr. Dobell embarked in a large covered boat on the Lena,

which he ascended on his way to Irkutsk. He left the former place on the

29th of August, being drawn by horses, with the assistance of six

peasants, whom he hired to go fifteen hundred versts to Kiringee, and

who were employed at places where it was difficult for the horses. The

banks of the river were varied and picturesque; sometimes steep cliffs

and uncouth heaps of rock, in the most fantastic shapes, rose to a great

height; sometimes the shores sloped away into mountains covered with

thick forests of pine and spruce.

On the 5th of October he arrived at Olekma, a town six hundred versts

above Yakutsk, in latitude 60 deg. 22', and east longitude 89 deg. 15' from St.

Petersburg. He found it to contain four or five hundred inhabitants. It

was, in former times, the place whence the Cossacks set out, when they

waged their wars against the Chinese, and carried their depredations as

far as the Amour. It is said, that three hundred and fifty of these

barbarian warriors were once besieged in a fortress by twenty-two

thousand Chinese, and held out against them a whole year, until a

capitulation was agreed upon, at a period when their force was reduced

to one hundred and fifty men.

At Olekma, the season had become so cold, and there was so much floating

ice in the Lena, as to render it impossible to proceed any longer by

water. The road lay along the shores of the river, frequently obstructed

by half frozen torrents rushing into it, and occasionally cut off by

points and precipices which compelled the party to venture on the ice.

"At Matcha, I found a clean, comfortable dwelling, and a

hospitable reception from the hostess, an old woman, who said

she had been seventeen years in Siberia, having been sent by

the Government from Archangel, to assist in increasing the

population; but she thanked God, at the same time, that she had

not been banished for misconduct. She told me she had always

lived much better than she did in Russia, and had been so

happily situated as to have never felt a wish to return. Having

received from her a fine fat fowl, some cream, vegetables, &c.

I asked her in the morning what I must pay for them. She

replied, 'a little tea and sugar, a piece of soap, and above

all, a few glasses of watky--though I would not have you

suppose I am addicted to liquor, for I only take a little now

and then to preserve my health.' Her emaciated frame and sallow

countenance belied her assertion. Complying with her request, I

begged her to preserve her health by using as little of the

spirit as possible, as it often had the opposite effect to that

of assisting the health. She laughed, and drinking a bumper to

my advice, wished me a safe journey."

Passing Veeteem and Kiringee, two considerable towns on the Lena, Mr.

Dobell found the country improve gradually, and the post-houses

throughout comfortable, clean, and convenient; much more so than could

have been expected in remote Siberia. The horses were also furnished

with great alacrity, and the inhabitants generally were kind and

hospitable. On the 30th of October he passed Katchuk, the place where

all the merchandise is embarked in the spring for Yakutsk and other

towns on the Lena. The river is generally free enough from ice by the

5th to the 12th of May, and but fourteen days are required for the

voyage. From Katchuk to Irkutsk, the road leaves the Lena, and passes

through a fine extensive plain, bounded on either side by well

cultivated hills, and having villages and farm houses dispersed over it

in all directions. This plain is principally inhabited by a horde called

Burettas, who are, for the most part, Christians, and have taken to

agriculture with a great deal of industry and zeal. The richer class

live in log houses, but the great part dwell in cabins, similar to the

winter jourtas of the more eastern hordes. Their clothing consists of a

pelisse of dressed goat or sheep skin, with the wool inside, trimmed

with fur, and painted in black and white stripes round the shoulders.

Irkutsk, the capital of eastern Siberia, is in latitude 52 deg. 16' 41", and

east longitude from St. Petersburg, 73 deg. 51' 48". It is built on the

margin of the river Angarra, and contains a population now probably

exceeding twenty thousand souls. The markets are good, the society is

pleasant, and a traveller finds in the very heart of Siberia almost all

the luxuries of life. In visiting the public works, the governor took

Mr. Dobell to an immense brick building, where he found the workshops of

the exiles.

"In that large range, one sees joiners, carpenters,

carriage-makers, saddlers, blacksmiths, and in short, all sorts

of tradesmen, busily occupied, and all provided with

comfortable apartments, clean clothing, and wholesome food.

From this we passed to the cloth factory, the contemplation of

which afforded me much pleasure, when I recollected that those

beings before me, who were once the victims of depravity,

exhibited no longer any thing to inspire me with the idea of

their having been criminals. All was gaiety and cheerfulness.

There I saw men, women, and children, all industriously

employed in weaving, spinning, carding, picking wool, &c. They

were arranged in several large, clean, warm, and comfortable

apartments; and they really appeared as contented as any

labourers I ever saw; for they looked fat and healthy.

"The cloth is made from the wool and hair of the Buretta sheep,

camels, and goats. It stands the Government in about a rouble

the arshin, and sells for two roubles. This profit, after

paying the expenses of the manufactory, leaves a surplus that

is used to furnish the hospitals, and for other laudable

purposes. Such an institution does honour to any country; nor

can there be a more praiseworthy application of the industry of

those exiles than that which operates to relieve the sick, the

fatherless, and the widow.

"There is every reason to conclude, from the examples which

have been furnished by those countries which have adopted this

system, that the idea of confinement and hard labour is a more

powerful preventive of the commission of crimes than the fear

of death."

At the public ship yard, Mr. Dobell saw a brig on the stocks, destined

to navigate the Baikal. The vessels generally used on that sea are built

on its shores, on account of the difficulty of ascending against the

current of the Angarra. Those belonging to the government are employed

principally to carry convicts and stores to Nerchinsk, where there are

mines of silver, gold, and precious stones, as well as a fine grain

country. The neighbourhood of Irkutsk is fertile and prolific, and the

population increasing. The climate is the mildest of Siberia, the

thermometer of Reaumur seldom exceeding 30 deg. to 34 deg. of cold, and that but

for short intervals.

On the 25th of November, having taken leave of his hospitable

acquaintances, Mr. Dobell left Irkutsk on his journey towards St.

Petersburg. He had fresh occasion to notice the kindness and simplicity

of the people, which his subsequent visits to the country tended to

confirm. On one occasion, at the village of Krasnoyesk, in this

province, he took, at the recommendation of the governor, instead of the

usual Cossack guides, two soldiers, one a grenadier of the guards of the

regiment of Moscow, and the other of the Semenofsky, who, having been

allowed a certain time to go and see their friends in Siberia, from whom

they had been absent eleven years, were anxious to return to St.

Petersburg, and had not money to hire a conveyance.

"They had travelled from Russia on foot, near five thousand

versts, to see their relations. The elder of the two had a wife

and two children. He related to me that when he returned to his

family, his wife, who knew him immediately, was so frightened

that she fell into a swoon; and it was nearly an hour before

she recovered her senses. His parting with his wife and

children again affected us exceedingly; but he seemed to bear

it with firmness, and said, 'God bless you, put your trust in

God: I shall return to you.' Both those men, but particularly

the married one, were the most faithful, obedient, well-behaved

men I ever saw, and proved of infinite service to me on the

road, as I travelled not with the post-horses, but with those

of the common peasants. This gives me an opportunity of

expatiating again on the moral and religious character of the

Siberians, as well as their intelligence, generosity, and

hospitality. I found on the road, even amongst the peasants, a

sympathy, a kindness and attention to the wants of my family

and myself, and a disinterestedness, that I have no where else

experienced. Many times it occurred that we lodged in a house

for the night, were furnished with bread, milk, cream, and a

supper for four servants, and I had a difficulty to make the

man of the house accept of a couple of roubles. The demand was

fifty to seventy kopeks; and sometimes payment was refused

altogether. I met a carrier who was conveying goods from Tumen

to Tomsk, a distance of about one thousand five hundred versts,

for two and a half roubles per pood! On questioning him, how he

could possibly afford to take merchandise at so cheap a rate,

he said, 'the people of my country are kind and hospitable. I

live about Tomsk, so that I must return thither; and I get a

man and a horse found a whole day for fifteen kopeks.' The

grenadier also assured me that the only expense his journey on

foot to see his family had cost him, was about twenty-five

roubles; and those were spent between St. Petersburg and

Ecatherineburg. 'After getting fairly into Siberia,' said he,

'no one would ever receive a kopek from me for either food or

lodging.'

"After we got into Russia, and began to suffer certain

impositions which are put upon travellers on the great roads in

every country, he would often exclaim, 'God be with me and my

beloved Siberia! There people have their consciences and their

hearts in the right place!'"

Tomsk is fifteen hundred versts from Irkutsk, and four thousand five

hundred from St. Petersburg, being in latitude 56 deg. 29' 6", and longitude

54 deg. 50' 6" from the latter place. Its population is about ten thousand.

It has many manufactories, and a number of handsome houses, with a

pleasant though small society. After leaving it, the traveller passes

the vast and fertile plain of Baraba, where he is whirled along at the

rate of two hundred and seventy versts a day.

The first place of importance which he reaches after crossing it, is

Tobolsk, the chief town of the province of that name, and formerly of

Siberia. Its latitude is 55 deg. 11' 14", and its longitude 37 deg. 46' 14" east

from St. Petersburg, from which, and from Irkutsk, it is distant three

thousand versts. Fourteen years ago its population amounted to thirty

thousand inhabitants, since when it has in all probability very much

increased. Its manufactories are numerous; its society is agreeable, and

gives evidence of the same hospitality which is witnessed so generally

and so gratefully by the traveller, in those remote regions; but has it

not in its very name a charm to the reader who peruses an account of it,

in its connexion with those incidents, fictitious or true, which have

been formed into one of the most simple, beautiful, and touching tales,

that have ever flowed from the imagination or the heart?

From Tobolsk, Mr. Dobell passed rapidly through the surrounding district

of the same name, visited Ecatherineburg, where he admired, so far

beyond the ordinary limits of the arts, works in marble, agate, and

precious stones, which would have done honour to Italian artists; and

arriving at the geographical boundary that divides Siberia from Russia,

closes the narrative of his travels, which we would willingly have seen

continued to the gates of the imperial capital of the north.

"I assure the reader," he says at the close of his truly

interesting account, "that in my humble attempt to describe

what I have seen and experienced, I have been governed by no

partial motives whatever. On the contrary, I have laboured to

represent every object faithfully as it has affected my senses.

I am, however, conscious at the same time, that it requires an

abler pen than mine to delineate adequately the sublime and

majestic works of nature in the regions I have been describing,

and to portray them to the imagination in all their simplicity,

beauty, and grandeur. Siberia does not possess the climate of

Italy, nor the luxurious productions of India; but she

possesses a fertile soil, a climate much better than is

generally believed, and natural resources of the highest value;

and she presents to the traveller such a magnificent picture of

natural objects, as is no where to be equalled except on the

immense continent of America. There is no longer any doubt but

the greater part of her territory is susceptible of high

cultivation, having a strong fertile soil, covered with superb

forests, and intersected by fine rivers, or watered by numerous

lakes, many of which may fairly be called seas.

"The race of men produced there, are uncommonly tall, stout,

and robust; certainly the best looking people I have ever seen,

particularly those of the Western parts. My readers will now, I

am sure, agree with me, that this country, hitherto considered

the _Ultima Thule_, or the _finis mundi_, has been highly

gifted by its Creator, and only wants population and

improvement to render it the most valuable portion of his

Imperial Majesty's dominions."