CHAPTER VI.

_Remembering when farming in the West was misunderstood, and land

could not be sold._

In some respects, the Winnipeg of thirty years ago was a truer

reflection of the conditions in the country from which it drew its

sustenance than it has been during the last two decades. The boom had

broken so disastrously that people asked whether the prairie region

could ever be a country. Immigration fell to almost nothing. Beyond

Manitoba, for several years, there were more abandoned than occupied

homesteads. We said: “The greatest of these is Hope,” but we didn’t

say “Hope” with capital letters during most of the ten years I was

with the Manitoba North Western, the last three of which were spent

in Winnipeg.

The census of 1891, in the midst of that period, gave only 152,000

people for all Manitoba, and 98,000 for the Northwest Territories.

This quarter of a million, from the Lake of the Woods to the Rocky

Mountains, and from the American boundary to the Arctic ocean,

included about forty-five thousand Indians and Eskimos. From 1881 to

1891, the natural increase among the whites, and immigration to the

present provinces of Saskatchewan and Alberta--leaving out of this

the present North West Territories--increased the population by only

forty-two thousand.

Winnipeg, then, was the only city for about three-quarters of a

million habitable square miles. When the first locomotive entered the

city on Christmas Eve, in 1879, on rails laid over double-length ties

across the Red River ice, under the supervision of Mr. D. D. Mann,

about six thousand people were within it. At the height of the boom,

in 1882, the population was estimated at 33,000. When I first saw

it in 1886 the people were said to number 20,000, of whom probably

2,000 were creditable to Hope. By 1891 the total had crept to 25,000.

The growth was puny until later than the twentieth century came in,

for in 1901, five years after the Canadian Northern was begun, the

enumerators found only 42,000 people in Winnipeg.

The explanation, of course, is that prairie agriculture had not

developed as rapidly as the prophets of Hope had foretold. The

abandoned homestead told an eloquent story, but not the whole

story. The conditions governing crop production on the plains

were imperfectly understood. The conditions underlying permanent

settlement were not appreciated by the Governments or by the business

people who were largely interested in colonization.

The prairie farmer’s two prime foes are frost and drought. To

defeat frost, early-ripening varieties of wheat are necessary; for,

if possible, the entire process from seeder to binder should be

completed within 110 days. The evolution of Red Fife and later of

Marquis wheat largely solved the frost problem, though it is still

true, despite the issuance of much literature, that the nearer you

approach the North Pole the chillier the nights are prone to be.

There is no denying that over a considerable proportion of the

treeless prairies the climate tends to scarcity rather than abundance

of rain. Through the late eighties it was commonly said that while

wheat might possibly be grown around Regina, the ultima thule of

wheat farming was Moose Jaw, forty miles west. The Government’s

maps of the pre-railroad era showed Battleford, the capital of the

North West Territories, at the junction of the Battle and North

Saskatchewan rivers, 300 miles north of the international boundary,

as the northern apex of the great American desert. The flora of the

country was of drought-resisting species, like that of the middle

northwestern states.

Conservation of moisture in cultivated soil was thought to be

entirely a matter for unassisted Divine Providence. It was found to

be good to let a third of the broken ground lie fallow each year--to

give it a rest, and to clean it of weeds. The farmer saw last year’s

stubble swiftly hidden by weeds in May and early June. Towards the

end of June he plowed the weeds in, using a logging or other chain

from his off-horse’s whippletree to the coulter, with a dragging loop

to pull the long plants straight into the furrow, and entirely bury

them. The heavier the green crop plowed in, the more, when rotted,

it enriched the soil. But the heavier the weeds, the stronger their

roots and the easier for the sun to dry out the loose covering soil.

When the summer-fallow had been plowed, the farmer left it untouched.

The sun thoroughly dried the land. Rains in the fall, and the melting

snows of spring did the less soaking because of the more drying of

the torrid summer time.

Experience has changed all that, thanks mainly to the experiments

of a wheat-grower below the line, who became famous as “Dry-Farming

Campbell”. The wise farmer, with his gang plow, turning two or more

furrows at a time, harrows as he plows, and makes a mulch of finely

powdered soil, through which the sun cannot suck up the moisture

as he did through unmulched soil. By frequent harrowing during the

summer the mulch is kept efficient, and the moisture wonderfully

conserved. Next year, if there is drought all around, the sower will

confidently expect twenty bushels from each acre of his dry-farmed

land.

This simple device for the conquest of aridity had not been

discovered when I became a Westerner. But there was no reason why

immigration should not have been fostered on wiser lines than those

that were followed. The immigration policy of the then Dominion

Government, viewed in the light of 1924, is something wonderful

to behold; and its literature something terrible to read. It was

represented that a British family arriving with seven hundred and

twenty-seven dollars and fifty cents could carry their farm until

their farm carried them.

It was an alluring prospect that the Queen’s Government held out to

the Queen’s subjects. The spirit of it was “You tickle the soil with

a plowshare, and it giggles you back a fortune.” There wasn’t a word

of cautionary advice. The newcomer was to discover his homestead,

build a house, buy a yoke of oxen, a wagon and a plow, and watch

himself grow rich with his growing grain. It used to be said, with

some sediment of truth, no doubt, that Government agents told the

confiding Englishman, who had never seen a milkpail, that his oxen

would plow the land all day and furnish cream at sunset.

There was great need for people in the illimitable, empty country;

but there was greater need for very uncommon common sense among

those who procured the people. The politician and his henchmen who

were thinking of votes risked none of their own money on immigration

promotions. But there were other interests, who sincerely desired to

settle the prairies with good people, and who obligated their own

and others’ finances to that end--the owners of the Manitoba North

Western, for example.

Over and above their means for raising capital for building the

railway, they established companies for furnishing the railway’s

territory with the settlers who alone could furnish the railway

with the traffic, which alone could keep it alive. The Commercial

Colonization Company was chiefly concerned with catching the

immigrant. The Canadian Settlers’ Loan and Trust Company financed

him, when, at his own charges, he arrived on the scene of his

predicted triumph.

Legislation was procured under which a lien could be placed on the

homestead--the 160 acres of land--while it was still the property of

the Canadian Government, and the homesteader was performing the work

which, after three years, would secure him a patent. In those days no

intending farmer in his senses thought of buying land, when he could

get 160 acres free, and could pre-empt another quarter section, with

the right to buy it at $2.50 an acre.

The emigrant was told a farm would be selected for him, and that the

Settlers’ Loan and Trust Company would build a house, dig a well,

furnish a yoke of stout and trusty oxen, a wagon, a plow, and other

items of a farmer’s outfit, and would ask no payments for two years,

by which time, all being fairly well, his crops would at least enable

him to live and meet the fixed charges of his debt.

The improvements, gear, and interest due for two years would absorb

$600, and the homestead would be obligated to that extent. That was

a very good scheme, on paper, as most financial schemes are. But it

lacked two essentials of success--the right selection of people, and

the right initiation of them into the mysteries of wresting a living

from an unknown soil, and a capricious, misunderstood climate.

The rock upon which so many immigration schemes have split has been

the belief that the most essential requirement of all was people

with money of their own. A Scot is the last man in the world to

depreciate the value of money; but nobody is better aware that money

is not the principal thing, when a family is invited to emigrate

to a strange land. Distant fields look green. Distant farm work is

very apt to look romantic. It is a beautiful contemplation for a

man, tired of an old-world city and its grinding occupation, to gaze

across half the world, and see himself the centre of an exquisitely

balanced estate--the lowing herd winding slowly o’er the lea; the

rustling fields of golden grain in the still more golden, evening

sunglow; and the occasional sallying forth to shoot the game which

chiefly retards the plough.

This vision of a new life, in a new world, has got seed-catalogue

gardening beaten to a hum-drummery. It may go into a man’s history

as a charming idyll of the mind, but it is likely to meet sudden

death at a pair of calloused hands, a yoke of cattle who insist on

running the wagon into the middle of a miry slough, and a plow which,

striking a stone concealed in virgin soil, lifts its handle against

an unoffending jaw. The West always needed people with the will to

work, and an inherent attachment to the land, and not too proud to

take guidance from those who had been through the mill. When money

has gone and profitable experience hasn’t come; the will to work

on the farm is likely to succumb to a desire to return to urban

occupations, which, though they are good enough in themselves, are

not Canada-builders, as farming is.

The Manitoba North Western subsidiaries and allies settled a

great many people on the plains about Birtle, on the incomplete

co-operative plan. But many of the selections were not wisely

determined, and inadequate measures were taken to see that they made

the best of their chances when once they were installed. Nobody can

tell the story of the ineffectual attempts of a green old country

townie to make a prairie farmer of himself as well as the man himself

can, when his sense of humour is sharpened by, and has survived the

discipline, cruel as it has often been. I am rather proud of having

been a good potato harvester as a boy in Scotland, but that isn’t

training enough to qualify one to depict the romantic difference

between the prophecy of a Government folder a generation ago, and the

alternately perspiring and freezing job of trying to make it come

true.

Scarcely more than ten per cent. of the six hundred brigade made good

on their homesteads. I spent many weeks one summer, after the railway

had received a receiver, among the farmers around Saltcoats, trying

to find customers for the lands which had fallen in to us, since the

patents were granted, and the homesteads forsaken. In some cases we

were glad to get a hundred and sixty dollars for land, improvements

and all. If I confessed all the truth it might be not so very far

removed from a story of the land-poor epoch in Minnesota, which

assuredly is an opulent state of the Union to-day.

A farmer drove into a prairie town down there--Marshall, I

think--with a calf for which he was seeking milk. Asked how he

reached such a fix he said:

“Well, a stranger came to my place with this calf and wanted milk for

it. We had none; so he asked me if I would trade something for the

calf. I said ‘No’, but he was so cussed persistent that at last I

told him the only thing I could trade for the calf was a section of

land. He wouldn’t have it; but was willing to take half a section.

Finally I accepted his terms. But I got ahead of him, after all; for

when we came to make out the papers I found the sucker couldn’t read!

and I’ve landed the whole durn section on him.”

One farmer whom I visited was an old naval man. He was literally a

sailor on horseback. He was just starting out on his horse to round

up his solitary cow. He would buy no more land; and, indeed, declared

he would leave the country if only he could get out. “This is no

country for a reasonable man,” he complained, “when you have to go

eight hundred miles for cordwood.”

“That can’t be so,” I retorted, looking eastward towards the

Porcupine Hills clothed with timber and abounding with game.

“I’ll prove it to you,” was the answer. “I have to go twenty miles

for firewood, don’t I? That’s forty miles, there and back, for a

load. It takes twenty loads to keep us warm one winter. Twenty times

forty miles is eight hundred. Now, am I right?”

Lest it be thought that these depleting conditions applied only

to the territory of feeble branch railways like ours, look at a

few other conditions which afflicted the infancy of the country

immediately tributary to the main line of the C.P.R.

E. A. James, who became the operating manager of the Canadian

Northern lines after my removal to Toronto, used to tell how in

1886 he was one of the C.P.R. men who received no salary for four

months. The C.P.R., though it had connected with the Pacific ocean,

was like a poor man with a large and growing family, who finds his

boys pushing their legs through their breeches faster than he can

conveniently cover them. The original outbound traffic from the

Territories had been buffalo bones, but the supply was limited.

Though a line had been built through the mountains, snowslides

compelled the erection of long and costly sheds to protect the track

from the avalanches which were destroying life and property--nine men

were carried to death as they were working on a bridge in 1885.

The C.P.R. was on the Pacific shore; but there was no traffic with

the Orient. Steamers had to be provided which could not possibly pay

at the start. The first C.P.R. steamer from Vancouver to Asia carried

two carloads of shingles and the bodies of several Chinamen piously

being returned to their ancestral sepulchres.

The capital of the North West Territories had been moved from

Battleford to Regina with the building of the railway across the

plains. Regina had about fifteen hundred people. When it had for ten

years been the seat of government for a territory several times as

large as the whole German Empire, if a new-comer wanted a house, the

owner, instead of naming the rent, asked what he would pay. Calgary

was the cowboy’s haunt, and the remittance man’s refuge. Edmonton was

still at the back of beyond; several days’ journey from a railway.

In Manitoba, Brandon was bravely telling itself that some day it

would beat Portage la Prairie, and furtively dreaming of keeping up

with Winnipeg, when once it had reached its stride. About twenty-five

hundred people were on the southern slope of the Assiniboine; and a

great deal of wheat was sold by farmers on Pacific Avenue, beside

which stood several elevators. The grain came from far south, and far

north--because there was no other railway to receive it. Brandon now

stretches across the Assiniboine valley, right to the border of the

Dominion Government’s experimental farm.

The history of the acquisition of that farm for public purposes

illustrates, as well as any episode I know of, what the position of

land and agriculture was in a favoured section of Manitoba about the

time I became a Manitoban. The original homesteader and pre-emptor

of the Experimental Farm was a bachelor named Charlie Stewart, whose

brother Jack took the land immediately west of him. Charlie had 320

acres, running down to the river, covering the northern slope, and

taking in some of the upland. It had all the diversities which

should distinguish an experimental station.

The harvest of 1887 was the best Manitoba had ever known--the most

abundant, indeed, until the phenomenal crop of 1915. The C.P.R. had

twelve million bushels of grain to haul to Port Arthur, and the task

staggered the equipment resources of what was even then regarded

as an enormous railway system. Fields that were estimated to yield

twenty-five bushels to the acre, threshed out forty and more. Ideal

weather had come just at the time the heads were filling; and instead

of some rows not amounting to anything, as often happens when milk

in the ear is scarce and development is hindered by hot sun and dry

winds, every husk contained its berry.

This 1887 crop, of magnificent quality, sold in Brandon at from

forty-eight to fifty-one cents a bushel. It was a common saying among

the farmers that a good European war was needed to make Manitoba

wheat worth something--perhaps two dollars a bushel might be obtained

at some impossible time. The big European war did come, and wheat did

go to two dollars a bushel--far higher, in fact. But there was not

so much rejoicing as seemed possible in the eighties; for the other

unthinkable thing had happened, and Manitoba farm boys were being

slain in the European war that made Canadian wheat so dear.

During the summer and harvest of 1887 the Dominion Government agents

had tried to buy Charlie Stewart’s farm. He didn’t want to sell;

for the place was handy to town; his old mother was well settled

with him; and there were advantages in being so near Brandon. On the

other side, the Government wanted so ideal a place, and the situation

was something of Ahab and Naboth’s vineyard over again, but with no

Jezebel intervening.

One day in the early winter Charlie Stewart was horse-power threshing

at Dan MacMillan’s, up the valley, close to where the Little

Saskatchewan enters the Assiniboine--perfectly level fields, good

soil, and flanked by what was left of the original bush, in which

were scores and scores of stumps the trunks of which had been cut

down and taken away by the beaver, remains of whose houses were still

among the brush. To the outfit a Government agent drove. Charlie

Stewart left the stack, and after about ten minutes returned, the

agent driving away. When he was a couple of hundred yards off,

Stewart began to blaspheme as mildly as he knew how, with regret that

he had sold his farm.

Impetuosity was nothing new to Charlie Stewart, as one of his mares,

circling with the horse-power gear below him, silently testified. She

was a big, dark-grey Percheron, foaled on the present Experimental

Farm. When she was a few weeks old, and while Charlie was plowing

with her mother, she got out of the yard, and came over to impede the

breaking, as fillies desiring nourishment will. Failing to drive her

off, Charlie pulled her back to the stable by the ears--and her ears

never pricked again.

Next time you travel westward through Brandon, watch the Assiniboine

valley as the train begins to climb away from the spacious station.

You will see the Experimental Farm in and across the valley, west

of the main road to the north, which crosses the river by the steel

bridge. It is a lovely sight, of perfectly developing crops, trees

flourishing with luxuriant foliage, and buildings which belong to

yourself as much as they belong to anybody. As you reflect that the

Dominion Government, in the year of Manitoba’s record crop, bought

that three hundred and twenty acres of land and buildings on it for

twelve hundred dollars, you will know that, in terms of money at

least, the West was cheap--to those who had the money.

It must not be supposed that because the crop of 1887 was

extraordinarily good, farm returns were not fluctuous. Eighty-seven

was perfectly fine. Eight-eight was also fine--up to the second week

in August. Then came a frost, a killing frost, and thousands of acres

of splendidly-grown straw and half-filled heads were plowed in. To

those whose grain was far enough advanced not to be utterly spoiled

by one awful night, the fall brought a marvellous comfort.

It was the time of Old Hutch’s corner of wheat at Chicago; and

Western farmers with a pretty fair sample could sell for up to a

dollar and twelve cents a bushel. The high prices did not last long,

but they were a godsend to those who received them.

The fluctuation had its influence on the tendency towards farmers’

organizations which quickly became discernible in the West, and

which had already found expression in the Farmers’ Union, the

inspiring spirit of which was a Mr. Purvis, a true forerunner of the

Motherwells, Crerars, Woods and Morrisons.

The Union men objected that, as to grades and prices, the wheat

buyer, was a dictator to the man who had driven into town with his

load, and must take what was offered, or haul his stuff home on the

chance that next week prices would still further be down. The C.P.R.,

under its monopoly charter, was in a very strong position, and was

also under persistent imputation of being in collusion with the

grain buyers. Perhaps nothing is more remarkable in modern Canadian

life than the suspicion that the railways are at the bottom of every

sharp practice which the public believes it has seen, or knows it has

endured. In the eighties it was notoriously undeniable that Manitoba

farmers, near the boundary, received several cents a bushel less

for their wheat than was paid across the line, for exactly the same

grade, the price of which was understood to be finally determined

by exactly the same final condition--the European market. With the

Canadian Pacific enjoying a virtual monopoly, it was easy to assume

that the whole trouble was with the magnates of Montreal. But it

wasn’t.

After his advent in 1882, it did not take Van Horne long to establish

his supremacy. The president of the C.P.R. was George Stephen, who

became Lord Mountstephen. But he had removed to England, and Van

Horne had a free hand in Canada. He had his faults, of course; but he

was a big man, who saw railway policies in a big way. His attitude

to the farmers was like his attitude to poor little lines like the

Manitoba North Western. He knew that the more the farmers received

for their crops, after paying freight charges, the more they could

buy, and the more west-bound freight the C.P.R. would carry. He knew

that the small railway was acting as a feeder to the C.P.R. for both

outbound and inbound traffic. He gave the weak line a square deal

every time until it became apparent that it was intended to compete

with the C.P.R. in the long-haul business. Then there was a fight,

in which his antagonist needed all his wits if he wished to admire

himself when peace was restored.

Well, the Farmers’ Union busied itself with the scandal, as the Union

called it, of Manitoba farmers having to sell their wheat for many

cents a bushel less than their brethren did a few miles away. Just

as the Canada Colonization Company is not the pioneer in financing

land settlement, so the grain growers’ organizations of this century

were not the first farmers’ bodies to jump into the business of grain

buying, in self-defense of the farmers’ interests.

The Farmers’ Union began to buy wheat along our side of the border

at higher prices than were paid by the Manitoba elevator and milling

people. For some time there was a great deal of puzzlement as to how

in the world Purvis and his men managed to buy grain, and pay for it.

The truth was that the C.P.R. and the Bank of Montreal, its very good

friend, had a hand in the revolution--not purely as a sort of joint

Santa Claus for the farmer, but because it was not good business

to allow the farmer to be ground beneath the upper and the nether

millstone.

I do not suggest, of course, that any railways have been operated in

Western Canada purely as philanthropic enterprises. The farmer hardly

claims that distinction for himself. But I do assert that the element

of public service and public fairplay has entered more largely into

railway administration than the public has often been informed;

and that, often and often, compared with his fellows, in purely

private undertakings, the lot of the railway president, manager, and

financier has not been a happy one.

Trains of Recollection Drawn from Fifty Years of Railway Service in Scotland and Canada, and told to Arthur Hawkes · 第 6 / 17 章