A NIGHT IN A LAPP HUT
[Illustration: MIDNIGHT SUN OVER LAKE TORNE TRÄSK, FROM ABISKO]
It was a wonderful night in June when I set out by motor launch one
evening from Abisko to Pålnoviken, where I was to spend a night in
a Lapp hut. And as I approached the small jetty that lies at the
very extremity of the park of the Tourist Hotel, I had once again
the unforgettable spectacle of the midnight sun, as it crept along
the mountain crests to the north-west and illumined Lake Torne
Träsk with a broad shimmering band of gold. The clear atmosphere
peculiar to Sweden brought out every contour and object so vividly
that even the most distant mountain summits appeared to be close at
hand, while rising over the plain behind Abisko, which was covered
with dense clusters of white-stemmed birch and juniper bushes, were
the snow-clad Abisko Alps, and the strangely shaped semi-circular
mountain pass called the Lapgate, through which it is said that
the Laplanders originally invaded the country. The contrast between
the dazzling snow and mountain-tops, now coloured blood-red by the
sun, and the verdant meadows and brawling rivulets, whose gurgling as
they rolled over the stones was almost the only audible sound, was one
of exceeding impressiveness, while the realisation that barely one
hour before midnight conditions of light and sun prevailed identical
to those existing in broad daylight in western countries created a
sense of unreality in my mind that was as novel as it was pleasing.
As we left the shore, however, a cold, bleak polar wind arose, whose
freezing blast effectively recalled me to reality. It was one of those
winds which chill you to the marrow; and as I was totally unprepared
for it, it unmercifully settled on my person, percolated into my
neck, up my arms and legs, and through my clothes, while it hovered
persistently and pervasively in my wake. The realisation of the
glorious sunshine above me, and the engrossing thought of the visit
that I was contemplating, were too strong, however, to be weakened
by such minor discomforts. And experiencing some of the sensations
of virtuousness which are invariably felt whenever one indulges in
an exceptionally cold bath, I began to stride up and down the minute
deck of the launch, full of the sense of well-being which is caused by
reasonable bodily exercise under uncomfortable conditions. After more
than an hour and a half of this constant buffeting, during which the
Jake developed all the symptoms of a roughish sea, and the boat began
to pitch and roll as if to the manner born, the wind suddenly flagged,
tired, while the rumble and clatter of the engine announced that we
had arrived. Creeping out of the deck chair into which I had finally
found refuge and oblivion from the storm, I saw a little cove with a
meadow in the background that sloped gently towards us, and behind it
steep mountain-sides that were clothed with pine and birch. Gathering
up my knapsack, I waited until the captain was ready to land, and
then, preceded by him, went down the ladder and climbed up the incline
leading to the meadow above. A hundred yards away were the Lapp huts of
the settlement which I was to visit, and in almost as short a time as
it takes to write down these words, we had arrived at the one in which
I was to spend the night.
Facing me was a hut made of curved birch trunks, set closely together
and covered with turf and earth, which were kept in place by cross
beams. And opening a door which swung outwards on a wooden hinge, I
entered after my guide had acquainted my hosts of my arrival. I found
myself in a large circular room whose walls sloped inwards, and in
the centre of which I saw a large open hearth bordered by stones that
were placed in a circle. Over this fire was a pot which was suspended
from an iron chain above, while there was a large hole in the roof to
enable the smoke to escape, and a smaller one on the floor level near
the door for the dogs to pass in and out. The ground was covered with
spruce birch twigs on both sides of the hearth, while all around the
wooden walls I noticed reindeer skins, and there were also two or three
chests likewise made of birchwood to hold the family trinkets and the
principal household implements, as well as an inverted wooden box which
was obviously used as a sideboard, since I noticed lying on it a tin of
the familiar Lyle’s Golden Syrup, and two china cups and saucers. As
I entered the hut, my host, N——, a typical Laplander with a hooked
nose, prominent cheek-bones, and tangled dark hair, courteously waved
me to a log on the right near the hearth, the place of honour, and I
sat down, while he began to talk concerning me to the captain. Opposite
to him and on the left were a woman and two young girls who sat
cross-legged against the side of the hut, and two youths of indefinite
age who were smoking pipes made of mazur birch. There were also two
black Lapp dogs, one of which was watching one of the younger girls as
she chewed a large chunk of smoked reindeer, which she had sliced off
a reindeer leg with a clasp-knife, while a large very pale-faced Lapp
baby, wrapped in mummy-like swaddling-clothes, was lying in a most
attractive-looking reindeer-skin cradle which was slung from the roof
and shaped like a miniature poulka (sledge).
Nowhere have I met with a more fantastic and weird-looking costume than
that which was worn by N—— and his family on this occasion.
N—— himself wore a blue cloth tunic ornamented with red and yellow
borders and gathered in at the waist by a leather belt, skin-tight
cloth breeches, moccasins turned up at the toes, and a high pointed cap
that, decorated with a bright red tassel and worn at a rakish angle,
gave him the appearance of a court buffoon. His womenfolk were
attired in blue cloth dresses trimmed with a kind of gold braid, tight
breeches, I believe, of the same material, coloured kerchiefs which
were fastened by quaint brooches, and attractive red and blue lace caps.
[Illustration: A LAPP HUT ON LAKE TORNE TRÄSK, MIDNIGHT]
I found N—— quite ready to answer my questions, though some of these
appeared to cause him vast amusement. On being told that the Laplanders
were never known to quarrel, I inquired what would happen if two Lapps
fell in love with the same woman. This question had to be repeated
several times before N—— realised what I was asking, but when once he
and his friends understood the drift of my query, they began to laugh
so uproariously that no answer was forthcoming for at least three or
four minutes. At last the captain informed me that my question had
caused the greatest merriment among the natives, as they were totally
unable to conceive of such a possibility ever arising. Here, then, is a
community of men and women who, in spite of their comparatively recent
conversion to Christianity and the attainment by them of a thoroughly
organised social life, in which the rights of property and marriage
ties are scrupulously respected, have, emotionally speaking, never
evolved beyond the state where sex has neither the aureole nor even
suspected the halo of romance. I say, in spite of their conversion to
Christianity and their organised life—as it cannot be denied that
while the primitive man’s possession of woman depends ultimately on
his power to hold her against any other man, his appreciation and love
of woman as such, and his capacity of romance, invariably grow with
every effort made by religion or law to control or check his amatory
or possessive instincts. Contrary to the general tendency of mankind,
the Laplanders have, however, little changed from what they were in
the dawn of civilisation, and they continue to afford the spectacle of
a race in which, in spite of restrictions, sex attraction is no more
discriminating than the universal craving for food. I rather fancy that
when a Lapp takes a wife he uses hardly more judgment than that which
is shown by the average man or woman who is sampling a piece of bread,
and that consequently, if only the woman is a fair example of the race,
such trifles as good looks or complexion, charm or fine physique, are
absolutely of no consequence.
As I talked to my guide and endeavoured to obtain further information
with regard to this very strange people, my hosts were proceeding
unconcernedly with their work. N—— was carving a knife handle out
of the horn of a reindeer, while his wife was busy fashioning thread
for sewing the family winter garments out of reindeer sinews, and was
pulling the strands through her teeth in order to soften them and make
them more pliable.
Soon the captain rose up to go. He told me that, as had been arranged,
I would sleep in the hut, also that in accordance with my desires I
would not be expected to share my host’s evening meal, though the
latter had expressed the hope that I would accept a cup of coffee
before retiring to sleep. I replied that I would be pleased to take
coffee with the family, though I knew that the Lapps were hardly noted
for their cleanly habits, and while my host’s daughter began to prepare
it, said good-bye to my guide, who promised to return for me next
morning.
Unsavoury as have been some of the foods which I have tasted during
many wanderings, few have proved more repugnant than the compound of
inferior moka and reindeer milk which was now handed to me, though
I will allow that the Lapp girl endeavoured to serve it in a clean
receptacle. Taking one of the cups which had evidently already been
used by one of the company, she poured in some water and diligently
started scraping the inside of it with her grubby fingers. Then
throwing out the water, she wiped and polished the cup, poured in the
coffee and milk, and handed it to me.
After this experience I was ready for anything, and until bed-time
amused myself watching the antics of my room-mates as they now started
to eat their evening meal preliminary to retiring for the night.
The menu on this occasion consisted of smoked reindeer, unfermented
bread, and coffee taken with salt instead of sugar, the informality
which dominated the feast reminding me irresistibly of feeding time at
the Zoo. Two large reindeer bones were produced, one of which N——
commandeered as head of the family, while the other went the round of
the others; and sitting on the ground, they all produced clasp-knives
and began to munch large chunks of meat which they pared off the bones.
The dogs ran from one to the other, getting a stray morsel, or when
sated lay back contentedly by their master, the latter every now and
then wiping his knife on one of their backs before cutting a fresh
morsel for himself. Spellbound I watched the orgy until suddenly,
without any more formality than that which is shown by a dog who tires
of eating and sinks into sleep, they quickly removed their moccasins
and dropped down on the deerskins that were nearest them, appearing to
fall asleep almost in the very act of falling.
It was some time before I began to realise that I too was expected to
follow the general example; but when looking behind me I saw a large
reindeer skin that had obviously been placed there for my benefit, I
gathered up my knapsack and made for my improvised bed. Never shall
I forget that night, for try as I would I was unable to reconcile
myself to the strangeness of my surroundings, or to forget the horde of
insects that had apparently found a home in my rug. The excruciating
itching which they occasioned, coupled with the occasional visit of the
very smelly Lapp dogs, who persisted in treating my prostrate body as a
couch, and the yelping of the baby, whom neither the milk-bottle nor a
large reindeer bone which was thrust into its mouth was able to pacify,
converted what would otherwise have been a pleasing experience into a
long-drawn agony, and it was a very disillusioned and weary traveller
who greeted the captain on the next morning. Thanking my host for the
hospitality which he had shown me, I gladly followed my guide to the
boat and hastened back to Abisko.