DESCRIPTION OF THE EXTERIOR
Approaching the Cathedral Church of Durham from the north by the large
open space between it and the Castle, known as the Palace Green, we
obtain a complete elevation of the whole structure. There is little room
to doubt, though the details naturally vary with the date of erection,
that the original plan of Carileph's church has been carried out in its
entirety, with two exceptions. These are the addition of the eastern
transept or nine altar chapel at the east, and the Galilee or Lady
Chapel at the west end. The entire length of the building, not including
the Galilee chapel, is 431 feet, which is made up as follows:--Nine
altar chapel 51 feet, the choir 120 feet, the transept 57 feet, and the
nave 203 feet.
The #Western Towers# are square and solid, and were evidently
included in Carileph's own scheme, as the wall arcades on both the
interior and exterior are carried round them. The Norman work is
continued as far as the nave roof, and it is extremely probable that
they were originally terminated at this height, in accordance with the
Norman custom, with low pyramidal spires, probably of wood. Exactly at
what date they were raised is not on record, but the style of
architecture of the upper portion suggests the early part of the
thirteenth century. The added portion, namely that above the
clerestory, consists of four stages, and is beautifully varied by
moulded arcading, with blind and open arches. The first and third stages
have pointed arches, while those of the second and fourth are round.
Above this again were tall wooden spires covered with lead. These were
removed about the year 1657, and towards the close of the eighteenth
century the present pinnacles and open parapets were added. At this
time, also, much of the surface of the towers was renewed.
The #Central Tower.#--The present central tower is noble in
proportion, and forms a fitting and harmonious summit to the whole
group. It must needs be of a very different character from the old
Norman tower, of which no trace now remains; and was most probably of
the usual type, low and square, and surmounted by a short pyramidal
spire. The existing structure may be attributed to Bishop Booth and
Prior Richard Bell, about 1474, when the letter previously quoted was
written. Externally the tower is divided into two storeys. The lower
portion contains, on each side, a pair of two-light windows, glazed,
each divided by a transom, and their heads having an ogee label
crocketed and finished with a tall finial also crocketed. Between and on
either side of these windows are panelled pilasters and brackets
carrying figures. The lower and upper stages are divided by a narrow
external gallery running round the tower, and protected by a pierced,
embattled parapet. This is known as the Bell Ringers' Gallery, and
certainly adds greatly to the effect of the tower as a whole. The upper
stage, which is much less lofty, has also two two-light windows on each
face, surmounted by crocketed ogee label mouldings and finials. These
lights are louvred. The whole is surmounted by a deep open-work parapet.
On each angle of the tower are two buttresses, which are decorated with
panelling and canopied and crocketed niches containing figures. The
interior of the tower or lantern is remarkable for the gallery which
runs round it, which is reached from the roofs of the nave and choir
transepts by doors. It rests on corbels, each alternate one being carved
with grotesque heads, and is protected by a parapet pierced in
quatrefoils. The four doorways are ogee-headed, with crockets and
finials. There is strong evidence in the construction of the present
tower that it was the original intention to surmount it by some other
erection, probably a spire. Each interior angle contains strong and
massive squinches which are of no constructive use at present, and must
have been originally inserted to carry some superstructure. The
buttresses at the angles are also carried up to the parapet, which would
seem to point to the same conclusion. Why this project was never carried
out cannot be said, but probably it would not have added to the artistic
effect of the tower. The belfry contains a peal of eight bells.
[Illustration: The Central Tower.]
The #East Front.#--The circumstances which led to the removal of
Carileph's apses and the erection of the eastern transept have
already been referred to. The present east end is divided into three
bays by massive buttresses, each of which contains three lofty lancet
windows separated by smaller buttresses. Over all, and in the gable, is
the famous large rose window. The north and south ends of the transept
are finished with the tall pyramidal pinnacles erected by Wyatt.
The #West Front# of Durham has, curiously enough, also lost its
original character. The western doorway of the cathedral is hidden on
the exterior by the Galilee or Lady Chapel, which was added by Pudsey in
1175. Above the Galilee roof is the large window inserted about the year
1346, while John Fossor was prior. The pointed arch of this window has
over it, on the exterior, the original great semi-circular arch. Above
this again, and between the two flanking western towers, is a small
gable. The west end of the cathedral, when seen from the opposite side
of the river, is extremely picturesque. The projecting mass of the
Galilee, the western towers, the foreshortened nave roof, and the
majestic central tower behind and above, form a group of high and rare
excellence.
The #North Door# is now the principal entrance to the cathedral.
Externally the present porch is the work of Wyatt. The first porch was
Norman, of four orders depth, with detached shafts in the recesses.
Above this was a high-pitched gable and roof, the front being ornamented
with a semi-circular-headed wall arcading. The inner side of the doorway
is of two orders only, and is probably the only remaining portion of the
original. The outer shaft is left plain, while the inner one, in each
case, is most elaborately carved. The capitals are all carved, and the
arch moulds richly ornamented with chevrons, foliage, and lozenges, as
well as many curious figure subjects. While examining this doorway,
notice should be taken of the ironwork of the door itself, and
particularly of the sanctuary knocker. In mediaeval times all churches
afforded sanctuary to wrong-doers, but at places where the shrines of
saints existed the sanctuary privileges were much greater. Durham being
one of these, there are many curious cases on record of persons claiming
the privilege, and protection from the secular law. The earliest
instance, of which any record has been kept, of sanctuary being claimed
at the shrine of S. Cuthbert is during the episcopate of Cynewulf, who
was bishop from 740 to 748, and the last recorded was in 1524. Criminals
claiming sanctuary were admitted by two janitors, who occupied two
small chambers over the doorway, traces of which may still be observed.
The knocker itself, as may be seen from the illustration, is a great
grotesque head, made of bronze, and hanging from its grinning mouth is a
ring. Originally, there is no doubt, the eyes were filled with crystals
or enamel, as small claw-like pieces of bronze remain by which the
filling was attached. The age of this piece of work is probably the same
as that of the doorway itself.
[Illustration: Detail Of Ironwork.]
[Illustration: The Sanctuary Knocker.]
[Illustration: Ironwork On Doors of Cloisters.]
The #South Doorways.#--There are two doorways into the south aisle,
one, known as the Monks' Door, opening from the western portion of the
cloisters and immediately opposite the north porch just described. On
the cloister side this shows a Norman arch resting on double shafts,
which are enriched with a lozenge pattern. On the inner or aisle side
there are two orders, with shafts in the recesses, which are also
decorated with the lozenge. The inner arch is carved with chevrons, and
the outer with conventional foliage and medallions. The capitals are
richly carved with foliage and grotesques. On the abacus and arch of
this doorway occurs a leaf pattern strongly suggesting the Byzantine
influence which at one time was found in Norman decoration. Here again,
on the door itself, we have a fine specimen of very elaborate and
characteristic Norman iron-work. The second, known as the Priors' Door,
opens into the south aisle from the eastern alley of the cloister, is
also Norman. The outer or cloister side is of the time of Bishop Pudsey,
and has an arch of four orders, with three shafts in the recesses on
either side. Its once elaborate sculpture is now much decayed, not
enough remaining to suggest that in its original state this doorway must
have been a noble specimen of the architectural design of its period. On
the inner side it exhibits work of Carileph's time, with an early arch,
cushion capitals, and shafts.
[Illustration: Ornament On South Doorway.]
The #Western Doorway.#--The exterior of this great doorway is now within
the Galilee chapel. It was built by Flambard (1099-1128), and is
comparatively plain. On the Galilee side it consists of an arch of four
orders ornamented with chevrons. The inner face is very similar to the
outer, but is shallower, having only two orders. The shafts and capitals
are without decoration, and the arch ornamented with chevron and a leaf
pattern with medallions carved with grotesque animals. In order to
reopen this doorway and make a carriage road up to it, Wyatt proposed
pulling down the Galilee chapel.
[Illustration: The Cloister.]
The #Cloister# occupies a large open space, bounded on the south,
east, and west by the various monastic buildings, and on the north by
the cathedral itself. The existing cloister was commenced during the
time of Bishop Skirlaw (1388 to 1406), and was completed by Cardinal
Langley (who held the see from 1406 till 1438), probably in the earlier
part of his episcopate. The contracts (the first dated 1398) for
building the cloister are still preserved in the treasury. We are
indebted to Bishop Skirlaw for their very existence, as it is recorded
that he contributed sums of money for this purpose, both during his life
and by his will. The cloister, as seen to-day, has been very much
altered and restored, and probably the only original feature remaining
is the fine oaken ceiling. This is panelled, and moulded, and decorated
with shields, upon which are painted and gilded various coats of arms.
In the centre of the cloister garth are the remains of what was the
monks' lavatory. It was erected in the years 1432 and 1433, and was of
octagonal shape. Some of the stone for its construction was brought from
Egglestone-on-Tees, on payment of rent to the abbot of that place to
quarry it. It is said to have had twenty-four brass spouts, seven
windows, and in its upper storey a dovecote, the roof of which was
covered with lead.
There is no doubt that there was a cloister attached to the monastery in
its early days, but of this no trace remains. It is also probable that
one was erected by Bishop Pudsey, though this also has entirely
vanished, unless (as suggested by Canon Greenwell) some marks of a
lean-to roof on the north and east walls may be traces of its presence.
In the western alley of the cloister is the old treasury, rich in
records, and the vestries for canons, king's scholars, and choristers.
The alley opens at the end into what is now called the crypt (see p.
85). This was undoubtedly the common hall of the monks. It is a spacious
stone-vaulted chamber. The columns are low and massive, with simple
moulded caps, from which the chamfered vaulting ribs diverge. Over the
hall or crypt is the dormitory, which for a long time formed part of a
residence attached to one of the stalls. It is now, however, used as a
library. It occupies the whole of the western side of the cloister, and
is 194 feet long. It was originally subdivided, by wooden partitions,
into separate sleeping-rooms for each monk. Its massive roof of oak is
worthy of attention, the tree trunks being merely roughly squared with
an axe (see p. 99).
In the south alley was the refectory and the monks' common dining-hall.
The original building is now entirely altered, though there remains
beneath it a very early crypt, with plain, short square piers, and a
simple quadripartite vault without ribs. Another portion is covered by a
wagon-head vault. Whether the original refectory was of similar
architectural character it is now impossible to say, as, whatever it may
have been, it was removed early in the sixteenth century and rebuilt,
and after the dissolution of the monastery was used by the Minor Canons
of the church as a common hall. It seems to have fallen into a bad state
of repair, and was again entirely reconstructed by Dean Sudbury
(1661-1684), who was elected to that office immediately after the
Restoration. He converted it into a library, to which use it is still
put. The account of this building, given in the "Antiquities of Durham,"
is of sufficient interest to bear quotation.
"In the _South_ Alley of the Cloysters," says our authority, "is a
large Hall, called the Frater-house, finely wainscotted on the
_North_ and _South_ sides; and in the _West_ and nether Part
thereof, is a long Bench of Stone in Mason-work, from the Cellar
Door to the Pantry or Cove Door: Above the Bench is Wainscot Work
two Yards and a Half high, finely carved, and set with imboss'd Work
in Wainscot, and gilded under the carved Work. Above the Wainscot
was a large Picture of our Saviour Christ, the blessed Virgin
_Mary_, and _S. John_, in fine gilt Work, and most excellent
Colours; which Pictures having been washed over with Lime did long
appear through it. This Wainscot had engraven on the Top of it,
_Thomas Castell_, Prior, Anno Domini, 1518 Mensis Julij. Whence it
is manifest that Prior _Castell_ wainscotted the Frater-house round
about.
"Within the Frater-house Door, on the Left Hand at entering, is a
strong Almery in the Wall, wherein a great Mazer, called the Grace
Cup, stood, which every day served the Monks after Grace, to drink
out of round the Table; which cup was finely edged about with
Silver, and double Gilt. In the same place were kept many large and
great Mazers of the same sort.... Every Monk had his Mazer severally
by himself to drink in, and had all other Things that served the
whole Convent, and the Frater-house in their daily Service, at their
Diet, and at their Table.... At these Times (at meals) the Master
observed these wholesom and godly Orders, for the continual
instruction of their Youth in Virtue and Learning; that is, one of
the Novices appointed by the Master, read some Part of the Old and
New Testament in Latin, during Dinner, having a convenient place at
the _South_ End of the High Table, within a beautiful Glass Window,
encompass'd with Iron, and certain Stone Steps, with Iron Rails to
go up to an Iron Desk, whereon lay the Holy Bible....
"This Fabrick retained the Name of the Petty Canons' Hall till _Dr
Sudbury_, Dean of the Cathedral, generously erected a beautiful
Library in its Place; but he not living to finish it compleatly, did
by (a clause) in his Last Will, bind his Heir, _Sir John Sudbury_,
to the due Execution thereof."
[Illustration: S. Cuthbert's Chest.]
The contents of the library are both numerous and interesting. There are
several thousands of volumes, many of them being rare and valuable.
Numerous ancient illuminated MSS., among which is a copy of the Gospels
of S. Mark, S. Luke, and S. John, written before the year 700; and
several books given by Bishops Carileph and Pudsey. Among the latter is
a Bible, in four volumes, in its original stamped leather binding. A
collection of ancient copes belonging to the cathedral, and the remains
of the robes of S. Cuthbert, and other relics taken from his coffin when
it was exhumed, in 1827, may also be seen here. Numerous specimens of
Roman altars, tablets, and sculptured stones, from various Roman
stations in Durham and Northumberland, notably from Hexham, are
preserved in this library, which is open to the public on Tuesday and
Friday in each week from eleven to one. The room is finely proportioned,
and has a magnificent open timber roof.
[Illustration: The Chapter-House.]
The #Chapter-House# opens upon the eastern alley of the cloister. The
present building is a very recent restoration of the original, which is
acknowledged to have been the finest existing Norman chapter-house
remaining in England. It was erected, or more probably completed, during
the time of Bishop Galfrid Rufus (1133-1140), and was in existence until
1796, during the episcopate of Bishop Barrington. At that time it was
almost totally destroyed, on the advice of Wyatt, who reported to the
chapter that it was in a ruinous state. The truth of this report is
doubtful, but the partial demolition of the building was ordered in
November 1795, and also the construction of a new room on the site. The
work of destruction was begun by knocking out the keystones of the
vaulting and allowing the roof to fall in. The eastern half of the
building was then altogether removed, and the remaining portion enclosed
by a wall. Its interior was faced with lath and plaster, a plaster
ceiling and a boarded floor being added. Fortunately authentic records
of its original appearance, both exterior and interior, are in
existence. They are the drawings made for the Society of Antiquaries by
John Carter in 1795. Its dimensions were 78 by 35 feet; the east end
being apsidal and the roof a vault of one span. Round the wall of the
interior ran a stone bench raised on two steps, which was surmounted,
except at the west end, by a wall arcade, of round-headed intersecting
arches, similar to that in the aisles of the cathedral, but with single
instead of double shafts. Above the arcade was a string course carved
with zig-zag ornament. The entrance was from the west end, and the east
end was occupied by two seats, one for the bishop and one for the prior.
In the apse were five three-light windows of the Decorated period, and
above the western door a five-light Perpendicular window, which
contained coloured glass, illustrating the "Root of Jesse." On either
side of this was a window of two lights, divided by a shaft and enclosed
under one arch, carved with chevron ornament. There was also a
round-headed Norman window in each of the north and south walls. A
doorway in the south wall led to three chambers, one larger, and two
smaller, which are stated in the "Rites of Durham" to have been used as
a prison for the monks. The chapter-house was used in early times as a
burial-place for the bishops, and many of their graves with inscriptions
were in existence previous to the demolition of 1796. During excavations
in 1874, the graves of Bishops Flambard, Galfrid Rufus, S. Barbara, de
Insula, and Kellaw were opened, when various rings and the head of a
crozier were discovered and removed to the dean and chapter library.
The chapter-house has now been entirely restored as a memorial to the
late Bishop Lightfoot.
The #Northern Alley# of the Cloister, running along the south wall of
the church, contains little of interest, except the two doorways
previously described.
The effect of the cloister as a whole, in its original condition, with
the windows glazed, many containing fine stained glass, the oak roof
with its heraldry and colour, and the lavatory in the centre of the
garth, must have been exceptionally fine.
[Illustration: The Exterior, from the South-east.]
A sculptured panel on the north-west turret of the Nine Altar Chapel is
now known as the #Dun Cow#. The original sculpture was replaced in
the last century by the existing panel, but the legend connected with it
is interesting. After their flight from Chester-le-Street, the monks,
bearing the body of S. Cuthbert, remained some time at Ripon. While
trying to return to Chester-le-Street, at a place called Wardlaw, the
coffin stuck fast, and remained absolutely fixed. A fast of three days
was proclaimed and kept, when it was revealed to them that they were to
carry their saint to Dunholme. Still they were in difficulties, not
knowing where Dunholme was, but fortune, or Providence, again favoured
them. A woman, who had lost a cow, passed, calling to a companion to
inquire if she had seen the animal. The reply was that her cow was in
Dunholme; and, to the relief of the monks, they and their precious
charge soon safely arrived there. In grateful commemoration of the
incident Flambard erected this monument of a milkmaid and her cow. (See
p. 9.)
The exterior of Durham Cathedral as a whole may at first sight be
disappointing to the visitor. Seen from a near view there is a certain
flatness of effect and want of light and shade which is, perhaps,
slightly unpleasant. This is, however, largely attributable to the
scaling and scraping process to which the building was subjected during
the last century, when some inches of the outer surface of the stone,
and with it much architectural detail, were removed. The result is the
flatness previously alluded to, and a general newness of appearance
pervades the structure. Seen, however, from a distance, where only the
finely-grouped and proportioned masses of masonry, towers, and turrets
stand against the sky, the result is magnificent, giving an impression
of grandeur and dignity unsurpassed by any other English cathedral.
[Illustration: The Nave, looking West.]