On the following morning, which was Saturday, the 8th of July,

1497,[426] Vasco da Gama and his companions were escorted to the beach

by a procession of priests and friars. They all carried lighted tapers,

and an excited crowd muttered responses to the litany which was being

intoned by the priests. On reaching the place of embarkation, the vicar

of the chapel celebrated mass and received a general confession; after

which, in virtue of a Bull published by Pope Nicholas V in 1452, he

absolved the departing adventurers of their sins. And thus they left on

their errand with the blessings of the Church, in the favour of their

King, and amidst the acclamations of a sympathising people.

_Lisbon to the Cape Verde Islands._

Winds and currents being favourable, the voyage to the Cape

Verde Islands was accomplished in good time, and the flag-ship,

notwithstanding some delay caused by a dense fog on the Saharan coast,

reached the Ilha do Sal, 1,590 miles from Lisbon, in the course of

fourteen days, if not earlier, and on July 27th the little armada lay

snugly in the harbour of São Thiago.

_The Voyage across the Southern Atlantic._

The accounts of Vasco da Gama’s remarkable voyage across the Southern

Atlantic are of so scanty a nature that it is quite impossible to lay

down his track with certainty. What we learn from the “Journal” may be

condensed into a few words. The little armada left São Thiago on August

3rd, _going east_! On the 18th of that month, when 200 leagues (680

miles) out at sea, the main-yard of the flagship sprung in a squall,

and this necessitated laying to for a couple of days and a night. On

the 22nd of October,[427] when 800 leagues (2,700 miles) out at sea,

going S. by W.,[428] large birds were seen flying to the S.S.E. as if

making for the land, as also a whale.[429] On October 27th more whales

were seen, besides seals. On November 4th, at 9 A.M., the main land was

sighted, probably about 150 miles to the north of St. Helena Bay (30°

S.).

In these days of hydrographic offices and sailing directories we know

how a sailing vessel desirous of proceeding from the Cape Verde Islands

to the Cape would shape her course. She would endeavour to cross the

equator about long. 22° W., pass to the leeward of Trinidad Island

(20° S.), and then, gradually gaining a higher latitude, trust to the

“brave” westerly winds carrying her beyond Tristão da Cunha to the

Cape, or beyond.[430]

But Vasco da Gama had none of this information to guide him in shaping

his course. He was informed, as a matter of course, about the winds

and currents prevailing off the Guinea coast, but of what might be

experienced in the open sea beyond he knew nothing.

It is just possible that he may have considered the possibility of

reaching the Cape by a direct course of 3,770 miles, and he may even

have attempted to carry out such a scheme. In the end, however, he

would never have been able to work down against the strong S.E.

“trades” and northern currents, for his ships could not be laid

nearer than six points to the wind, and even then they would have made

considerable leeway.

His actual course, in any case, must have been a circuitous one, and

we may suppose it to have been as follows:—Having left São Thiago in

an easterly direction,[431] he kept in the direction of the coast

for a considerable distance, but when he came within the influence

of the dreaded _doldrums_ he met with unpleasant weather in the

shape of calms, baffling winds, and squalls, which prevail more

especially during the months of June, July, and August. One of these

squalls sprung the mainyard of the flagship, and heaving up a new

yard necessitated a delay of two days and a night. When attempting to

make southing he was driven to the westward, but managed to cross the

equator in about 19° west.

Thence he followed a circuitous course, which brought him within 600

miles of the coast of Brazil. The northern part of this assumed course

lies to the west of a track recommended by Captain Horsburgh as being

most favourable for vessels proceeding between April and October from

the Cape Verdes to St. Helena, whilst its southern part lies to the

west of the usual track of sailing vessels going from Ascension to the

Cape. In this manner we suppose Vasco da Gama to have reached lat. 30°

S. long. 15° W., by October 22nd. This point lies about 800 leagues, or

2,700 miles, in a direct line from São Thiago; but by the track assumed

by us the distance is 1,030 leagues, or 3,480 miles. As Vasco da Gama

spent eighty days in making this distance, including the time lost in

repairing his yard, his daily run only amounted to 44 miles.

It was here that Vasco da Gama saw birds flying to the S.S.E. They

were no doubt making for Tristão da Cunha, which lies at a distance of

about 400 miles in that direction. He also saw a whale, a very common

sight in these latitudes.[432]

Thus far the course followed had been more or less southerly, but Vasco

da Gama had now passed beyond the S.E. “trades”, and found himself

under the welcome influence of “brave” west winds and of an eastern

current, running at the rate of a knot in the hour. This speeded him on

his course, and he covered the 500 leagues, or 1,700 miles, which still

separated him from the west coast of Africa, in the course of thirteen

days, making his first landfall on November 4th in about 30° S. His

average daily run on this course must, therefore, have amounted to 131

miles.[433]

This may seem a high rate, but it is by no means an exceptional one.

Vasco himself made at least 114 miles daily during his passage from

Lisbon to the Cape Verdes, and 125 between the Cape and the Guinea

coast when homeward bound. Columbus, during his first voyage, averaged

84 miles[434] daily between Gomera and Guanahani, but on nine days his

daily run exceeded 150 miles, and on one day—the 4th of September—he

actually covered 210 miles, although he had to take into account the

bad sailing qualities of one of his vessels, the _Niña_.

We have laid down Vasco da Gama’s hypothetical track with a

considerable amount of diffidence. The passage might, of course,

have been effected in various other ways.[435] When Cabral started

for India in 1500 he was instructed by Vasco da Gama himself to sail

southward from the Cape Verde Islands, until he should have reached the

latitude of the Cape, and then to head to the east. Cabral, however,

was carried by winds and currents towards Brazil, which he made in lat.

17° 20´ S., and thence followed a track which took him past Trinidad

and Fernão Vaz,[436] and does not differ much from that now recommended

to sailing vessels.

João da Nova, who left for India in March 1501, did not follow the

route of his predecessor, perhaps on account of the terrible disaster

which overtook Cabral when in the vicinity of Tristão da Cunha. Nova

seems to have attempted a direct passage; for following perhaps the

eastern route recommended to a later generation by Laurie’s _Sailing

Directory for the Ethiopic Ocean_ (4th edition, by A. G. Finlay, p.

74), he discovered the island of Ascension on the outward voyage, and

is generally credited with having reached the Cape without coming

within sight of the coast of Brazil.[437]

Vasco da Gama, during his second voyage in 1502, seems to have seen

no land from the time he left Cape Verde until he arrived at Sofala,

that is, during ninety-nine days, viz., from March 7th to June 14th: a

remarkably quick passage. He seems on that occasion to have given the

Cape of Good Hope a wide berth.

His nephew, Estevão da Gama, who left Lisbon on April 1st, took

the western route. He passed the Cape Verde Islands on April 15th,

Trinidad,[438] in the Southern Atlantic, on May 18th, doubled the Cape

about the beginning of June, and first made land, on July 11th, at the

Cabo Primeiro, on the coast of Natal, one hundred and two days after

his departure from Lisbon.

When Affonso de Albuquerque reached Cape Verde on his voyage to India,

in 1503, he took counsel with his pilots whether to follow the “usual

route” along the coast of Africa, or to make boldly for mid-ocean. The

latter course was decided upon. After a voyage of twenty-eight days,

the Island of Ascension[439] was reached, at an estimated distance of

750 to 800 leagues from the Cape. Subsequently de Albuquerque touched

the coast of Brazil, and then stood across the Atlantic for the Cape

of Good Hope, which he made on July 6th, having thus accomplished the

passage from Lisbon in the course of ninety-one days.

Duarte Pacheco, who wrote his _Esmeraldo de Situ Orbis_ in 1505,

recommends vessels to go south from Cape Verde for 600 leagues, to lat.

19° S., and thence to make for a point 40 leagues to the S.W. of the

Cape of Good Hope, in lat. 37° S. Such a course would take a vessel to

the windward of Trinidad.

These notes prove that the Portuguese, in the course of a few years,

must have acquired a remarkably correct knowledge of the winds and

currents of the Southern Atlantic; for the tracks laid down and

followed by their pilots in the beginning of the sixteenth century

differ but little, if at all, from those recommended in our modern

sailing directories.

_Doubling the Cape_.

Three days after his landfall we find Vasco da Gama in the Bay of St.

Helena, where he careened his ships, took in a fresh supply of water,

and observed the latitude.[440]

He left this anchorage on November 16th. Two days afterwards he sighted

the Cape, but the wind being from the S.S.W. he was obliged to stand

off and on until the 22nd, when he succeeded in getting beyond it

“without encountering the storms and perils expected by the mariners”;

and following the coast he cast anchor in the Bay of S. Braz on the

25th, and there set up his first padrão. In that run he must have been

favoured by the wind, which along the coast and in November blows

generally from the S.E., although westerly winds and even gales are not

infrequent.

Barros, Castanheda, and Goes give the same account of the doubling of

the Cape, but Correa would have us believe that Vasco da Gama, after

having made a landfall to the north of the Cape, stood out for the open

sea for a month, until there were scarcely six hours of sunlight in the

day; and that, even after that, and after he had once more failed to

reach the southern extremity of Africa, he continued south for two more

months. Then at last he turned again to the east, and found that he

had doubled the Cape. Beyond it he discovered lofty mountains and many

rivers, one of which was ascended by Coelho for twenty leagues.[441]

The utter absurdity of this account is evident, and it is surprising

that it should have been accepted by serious historians. A day of six

hours may be experienced in lat. 58° 30´ S. in mid-winter—that is in

June—but nowhere in the southern hemisphere during summer. In November

the duration of daylight in that latitude is about sixteen hours,

and to talk about “darkness” under these circumstances seems absurd.

It would, moreover, have been impossible to reach so high a latitude

without coming amidst masses of drift-ice, which surely would have

proved a stranger experience to Vasco’s companions than “tremendous

seas” and “high winds”, and better worth recording.

_Along the East Coast of Africa._

On December 8th Vasco left the Bay of S. Braz, and four days afterwards

experienced a heavy westerly gale (p. 18).

Barros, Goes, and Castanheda refer to this gale, but Correa, not

content with a gale, conjures up a succession of storms, continuing for

days, so that the crews clamoured to be taken back to Portugal. The men

in Coelho’s ships are actually said to have conspired to mutiny at

the earliest opportunity. Their intention, we are expected to believe,

was made known to the captain-major by a mysteriously-worded message

shouted from ship to ship by Coelho. Vasco at once summoned his people,

declared to them that “if the bad weather came again he had determined

to put back; but to disculpate himself with the King it was necessary

for some among them to sign a document giving the reasons for putting

back.” Having invited on this pretence his pilot, his master and three

leading seamen into his cabin, he treacherously put them in irons, and,

flinging all the instruments necessary for navigating the ship into

the sea, declared that God would henceforth be their master and pilot.

The men were released on reaching the River of Mercy, but on their

return to Portugal they were ironed once more, to be presented in that

degrading state to their King![442]

Osorio[443] likewise gives an account of a mutiny, but says that it

occurred before the Cape was doubled. He differs in other respects

from Correa, stating, for instance, that “_all_ the pilots were put

in chains.” As Osorio’s book was published in 1571, whilst Correa’s

MS., although written in 1561, only reached Lisbon in 1583, it is not

probable that the former borrowed from the latter. They may both have

derived their information from the same impure source, and accepted

an idle tradition as the record of a fact. That there may have been

some discontent among the men is quite possible, but we cannot

believe that the pilots intended to head a mutiny. We quite agree

with Professor Kopke,[444] when he prefers the authority of Barros,

Goes, and Castanheda, and of the author of this “Journal”, to that of

Osorio. This applies with still greater force to the absurdly elaborate

account of Correa. Professor A. Herculano, in the second edition of

the _Roteiro_ (p. viii), discredits Professor Kopke’s notes on the

insufficient ground that the eminent authorities referred to above

refrained from every allusion to a mutiny from a “fear of tarnishing

the fame of Vasco da Gama’s companions.” But Herculano believed in

Correa—we do not.

Early on December 15th, Vasco once more made for the land, and found

himself abreast, the Ilhéos Chãos (Bird islands) in Algoa Bay, having

thus covered only a couple of hundred miles in the course of seven

days. Fair progress was made for a couple of days after this. The

vessels kept near the coast, and being favoured by the wind, and also

by an inshore counter-current, were able to pass beyond the pillar set

up by Dias and the furthest point reached by that navigator. But on

December 17th the wind sprang round to the east. Vasco da Gama stood

out to sea, and was thus made to experience the full force of the

Agulhas current, which here runs at a distance of about ten miles from

the land. He was unable to make head against the combined forces of

wind and current, and when, on December 20th, he again approached the

land he found himself at the Ilhéo da Cruz, 27 miles to the westward of

the group of islets from which he had started on the 15th (see p. 15).

Henceforth, for a number of days, the wind proved propitious, and by

December 25th our voyagers, clinging all the while to the coast, had

proceeded 240 miles beyond the furthest point reached by Dias (as

estimated by the pilots); and three days afterwards they cast anchor

and took a quantity of fish. This locality we identify with Durnford

Point—the Ponta da Pescaria of the old charts—300 miles beyond the Rio

de Infante (which was Dias’s furthest), and 370 miles beyond the Ilhéo

da Cruz. The daily run since December 20th had thus averaged 46 miles.

Vasco da Gama then stood off the land, for reasons not given by any

of the historians. Whether it was from fear of being driven upon a

lee-shore by a strong easterly wind, or the hope of being able to

shorten his passage by a more direct north-easterly course, we are

unable to tell. However that may be, a fortnight passed before the

vessels returned to the land, so that drinking-water began to fail, and

the men had to be put on short rations. It was on the 11th of January

that Vasco da Gama found himself off the mouth of a small river, the

Rio do Cobre, where he established friendly relations with the “good

people” of a country ruled by petty chiefs.[445] The distance of

this river from the “Fishing Point” is only 315 miles, and contrary

winds must therefore have driven the little flotilla far out of its

direct course, but not as far as the neighbourhood of Madagascar, for

southerly winds would have been picked up there, which would have

carried it more speedily towards its destination than was possible in

the face of the south-easterly winds prevailing along the coast of

Africa.

After a stay of five days, Vasco da Gama left the Rio do Cobre on

January 16th, and without further incident, and leaving Sofala far

to the west, he arrived off the mouth of the Rio dos Bons Signaes

(Kilimani) on January 24th, having thus accomplished a distance of 480

miles in eight days. Coelho’s caravel at once crossed the bar to take

soundings, and the two ships followed on the next day. In this river

Vasco da Gama stayed 31 days, careening his vessels, refreshing his

crews, and erecting a padrão dedicated to S. Raphael (see p. 19). It

was here that he heard the glad tidings of more civilised regions in

front of him.

On February 24th the vessels once more gained the open sea, and

following the coast for six days arrived off Mozambique on March 2nd.

During this voyage of 330 miles they kept outside the islands which

here skirt the coast, and lay to at night, as usual, which accounts for

the slow rate of progress made during this coasting voyage. Coelho,

as before, led the way, and entered by the shallow southern channel,

between the islands of S. Thiago and S. Jorge. The three vessels

anchored in front of the town (see p. 23). Later on they removed to

the island of S. Jorge, where mass was read on March 12th, after which

the little flotilla set sail for the north. Two days afterwards, the

Soriza Peaks rose in the distance. In the course of that day they were

becalmed. A light easterly wind arose, and at night on the 14th they

stood off shore; and when in the morning of the 15th they looked about

them, they found that the Mozambique current, which here frequently

runs at the rate of two to four knots to the southward, had swept

them twelve miles abaft Mozambique. Sailing vessels are advised,[446]

under such circumstances, to stand to the eastward for sixty miles or

more, and regain their northing beyond the influence of the southerly

current. Of course, Vasco da Gama knew nothing about all this.

Fortunately, he was able to recover his old anchorage at the island of

S. Jorge in the course of the afternoon.

A fresh start was made on March 29th. This time the wind was

favourable. The Moorish pilot whom Vasco da Gama had on board took him

past Kilwa, which the captain would have liked to have visited, and

shaped a course outside Mafia, Zanzibar and the other islands lying

off that coast. Early on April 7th the _S. Raphael_ ran aground near

Mtangata, but was speedily got off; and on April 7th Vasco da Gama cast

anchor in the outer road of Mombasa, the finest port on the whole

coast of Eastern Africa. The distance thus accomplished in the course

of nine days was 690 miles (see p. 34).

Sixty miles more brought the Portuguese to the roadstead of Melinde,

where they cast anchor on April 14th, and remained until the 24th. This

was the only town at which they met with a cordial reception (p. 40).

_Across the Arabian Gulf to Calecut._

On April 24th Vasco da Gama, who had secured the services of a Gujarati

pilot, started for India. By that time the S.W. monsoon was blowing

steadily, though not as yet very strongly. The African coast was kept

in sight for a couple of days, after which the vessels stood boldly

across the “Great Gulf.” They passed in all probability to the south of

the _Baixos de Padua_. They had been twenty-one days at sea, and were

still 24 miles from the land, when there rose in front of them a lofty

wooded mountain. This was Mount Eli, 2,220 miles from Melinde, and the

day on which India was first beheld by Europeans who had come direct

from a European port was May 18th, a Friday (see p. 47).[447]

Galvão[448] is the only author who mentions the “Flats of Padua,”[449]

as having been discovered by Vasco da Gama on his outward voyage,

and we freely accept his statement, for the Portuguese must either

have crossed the Laccadives or passed to the north of them. As these

islands are very low, the author of the _Roteiro_ may not have thought

it worth while to mention them. It is evident, however, from what

Sernigi says (p. 134), as also from the evidence of the earliest maps

illustrating this voyage, that the Portuguese learnt a good deal about

them from the pilots whom they employed.

On the following day, having stood off during the night, the

captain-major again approached the land, but the western Ghats were

wrapped in clouds, and it rained heavily, so that the pilot failed

to identify the locality. The day after, however, the 20th of May,

having passed Monte Formosa (see p. 47, note 6), he recognised the

lofty mountains above Calecut, and in the evening of that day the

little fleet was riding at anchor about five miles off Capocate, or

Capua, a small town only seven miles to the north of the much-desired

city, which was pointed out to the expectant Portuguese (p. 48). Soon

afterwards Vasco da Gama took up a position right in front of that

city;[450] but on May 27th a pilot of the Zamorin guided him to an

anchorage off Pandarani, thirteen miles to the north, on the ground of

its greater safety, and at that anchorage the Portuguese remained no

less than 88 days, until August 23rd, when Vasco da Gama once more took

up a position four leagues to the leeward of Calecut. From that time

to the day of his final departure, in the afternoon of August 30th,

he hovered about that city, standing off and on, as the state of the

weather or the exigencies of his relations with the Zamorin required.

_The Voyage Home._

In the afternoon of August 30th, a tornado carried Vasco da Gama out

to sea (p. 77), and when making his way along the coast he was obliged

to tack, depending for his progress upon land and sea breezes, and

laying-to when becalmed. At Cananor he sent ashore one of his captives

(p. 79), but held no communication with the town himself. On September

15th he landed on a small island, and erected the padrão dedicated to

St. Mary (p. 80).[451]

On September 20th Vasco da Gama arrived at the Anjediva Islands, about

14° 45´ N., having thus spent twenty-one days in accomplishing 240

miles. He seems, first of all, to have anchored near the Oyster Rocks,

off the Kalipadi river, but on September 24th he landed on the largest

of these islands, where he remained until October 5th, waiting for a

propitious wind, and availed himself of the enforced leisure to careen

the flagship and the _Berrio_ (p. 83).

The passage across the gulf proved a fearful trial for the Portuguese.

Foul winds and calms impeded their progress, whilst a renewed outbreak

of scurvy carried off thirty victims and prostrated the remaining men,

so that only seven or eight were fit to do duty in each vessel. Vasco

da Gama had left Anjediva on October 5th (a Friday!), although the N.E.

monsoon only sets in at the end of the month, and ninety days elapsed

before the African coast came within sight, near Magadoxo, and five

more before the hard-proved mariners once more found themselves with

the friendly Sultan of Melinde (p. 89).

The remainder of the voyage home calls for little comment. Having

left Melinde on January 11th, Vasco da Gama, passing between the

mainland and Zanzibar, stopped for a fortnight at the “baixos” upon

which the _S. Raphael_ had run in the outward voyage, and there that

doomed ship was set on fire, as there were no men left to sail her.

Late on February 1st the remaining two vessels hove to in front of S.

Jorge Island, where a padrão was erected on the following morning in

drenching rain. The voyage was continued without communicating with the

town of Moçambique, and on March 3rd Vasco once more found himself in

the Bay of S. Braz.

The Cape was doubled on March 20th. The wind proved fair during

twenty-seven days—that is, to April 16th or 17th—but after came calms

and foul winds; and on April 25th, when the wearied mariners already

believed themselves to be near S. Thiago, the pilots told them that

they had only reached the shoals off the Rio Grande (p. 93).

A Journal of the First Voyage of Vasco da Gama 1497-1499 · 第 11 / 19 段