CHAPTER XV.

Visit to Matopo, 1910--Improvements--Brother and

Sister Doner--Mapani--Mtshabezi--Visit in 1913--

Bulawayo and Vicinity--Changes at Matopo--Aiding

the People--Love Feast at Mtshabezi--What Hath God

Wrought? 212

PART II

Macha Mission

CHAPTER I.

Early Missionary Labors--Railroad Building--Starting

for the Zambezi, 1906--Victoria Falls--David

Livingstone--Barotseland and Other Missions, 237

CHAPTER II.

Preparing to Advance--Broken Wagon--Journey to

Kalomo--Interviewing Officials--Difficulties in the

Way--Permission to Proceed--Macha, 252

CHAPTER III.

Why Selected--Living on the Veldt--First Huts--Spiritual

Duties--Learning an Unwritten Language--First

Christmas, 263

CHAPTER IV.

Trying to Begin School--Chief Brings His Son--Industrial

Work--School Books--Wild Animals--Threatened

Uprising--Mr. M. Taylor Arrives, 1907--White

Ants--Visit to Nanzela, 277

CHAPTER V.

Mr. and Mrs. Jesse Wenger Arrive, 1908--Need of

Good Houses--Making Brick--Tsetse Fly--Brother

Taylor's Encounter with Lions, 295

CHAPTER VI.

School Work--English--Evangelistic Work--Brother

Taylor Among the Baila--Building a House--Elder

Steigerwald and Brother Doner Go North--Visit

of Elders J. N. Engle and J. Sheets--Marriage--First

Baptism, 306

CHAPTER VII.

Furlough--Encounter with Elephant--Misses E. Engle

and Mary Heisey Visit Macha--Preparing the New

Testament--Out-schools--Murder of Chief--Taylors

or Furlough--Death of Semani, 323

CHAPTER VIII.

Baby Ruth--Building Church--Training Natives--The

Year's Work--Brother Taylor Itinerating--Elder

Steigerwald's Visit, 343

CHAPTER IX.

New Books--Native Problems--Studying the Native

Character--Child Life--Natives Resourceful--Dark

Side of Native Character, 355

CHAPTER X.

Are They Lazy?--Three Natives--Home Training--Charlie--

Are They Provident?--Naturalists--Attitude Toward

Whites--Generosity of Some--Kraal-visiting, 372

CHAPTER XI.

Ideas of God--Native Prophetesses--Rainmakers--Death

and Burial--Digging a Grave--Sacrifice of

Animals--Beer-wailings--Evil Spirits, 387

CHAPTER XII.

Tribal Mark--Decorating the Body--Kinship--Betrothal

and Marriage--The Bride--Hindrances to Mission

Work--Compared to the Matabele--Salutations, 402

CHAPTER XIII.

Ruth's Sickness--Medical Work--A Visit Among the

People--Remember the Aged--David Goes to School--Taylors

Go to America, 1913--Wenger's Return--Outpouring

of the Spirit--Miss E. Engle and Mr.

L. B. Steckley Come to Macha--First Women Baptized, 418

CHAPTER XIV.

Two Objects Paramount--Need of Native Evangelists--Visit

to Out-schools--Mianda--Impongo--Kabanzi--Kabwe--Myeki--

Chilumbwe, 440

CHAPTER XV.

Lehmans' Work--Eysters' Work--Doners Open New

Station--Present Status--Are the People Eager to

Hear?--What It Means to Be a Missionary--Qualifications--

Difficulties--God Is Able, 466

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

H. Frances Davidson and Adda G. Engle, Frontispiece

Hut Built by H. Frances Davidson and Alice Heise at

Matopo, 58

Matopo Mission, March, 1899, 63

Matopo Mission Church in 1899. Built by Elder Jesse

Engle, 87

Mrs. Cress Giving a Lesson in Cleanliness, 91

Elder Engle and Donkey Team at Matopo Mission, 99

Matopo Cemetery, 103

Matopo Mission House. Front View, 131

"Here lie the remains of Cecil John Rhodes," 149

Matopo Mission Church. Built by Elder Steigerwald in

1905, 159

Back View of Matopo Mission House, Showing Granite Hill

Beyond, 161

In the Matopo Hills, 163

Mapani Mission, 1907, 168

Kwidine Taking His Aunt to Church. Matopo M. Hospital, 170

Christian Wedding Reception Near Matopo, 171

Matabele Kraal, Near Matopo Mission, 196

Matabele Women Stamping Grain, 201

Matabele Women Digging, 207

Building the Boys' House at Matopo, M. S., 215

Boys' Brick House at Matopo Mission, 215

A Native Christian's Home. Matshuba's, 217

Mtshabezi Church and School, 221

Mtshabezi Mission in 1910, 221

Mtshabezi. Baptismal Scene, 224

Girls at Mtshabezi Mission, 230

Victoria Falls Bridge, 241

Main View of Victoria Falls, 1-1/4 Miles Wide, 246

Macha Mission Huts, 1907, 281

Macha Boys and Schoolhouse, 287

The Last Invitation, 291

Making Brick at Macha, 302

Brick Kiln. Mr. Jesse Wenger and Helpers, 302

Macha Mission Dwelling House, 307

Elder Steigerwald and Mr. Doner on Their Trip North

of Macha, 313

Crossing the Kafue River in a Native Dugout, 315

Batonga Chiefs and Headmen, 317

First Baptismal Scene at Macha. Native Congregation

Not Visible, 319

Wedding Dinner at Macha, 320

The Elephant That Derailed the Train, 325

Macha Mission School, Boarders, 1910, 327

Macha Wagon and Oxen Near an Ant Hill, 330

Simeoba's Village, Viewing the Strangers, 334

Sisters Engle Crossing the Tuli River in the

Matopo Hills, 337

The Battle Palm, 340

Macha Mission Church and Boys' House, 347

Ruth Taylor and Her Mother. A White Child in the

Midst, 351

Little Nurses. Mianda Village, 359

Batonga Fisher Women, 364

Batonga Village with the Cattle Pens in the Foreground, 404

Cattle Pen of the Batonga, 406

A Batonga Family Traveling, 408

Native Women--Widows, 410

Kabanzi Chief with His First Wife, 412

Giving the Gospel in Macha Village, 414

Macha Mission, 1913, 419

Ruth Taylor, 423

First Christian Marriages at Macha, 426

David Moyo and His Wife and Child, 429

Rev. and Mrs. Kerswell with Native Carriers on a Visit

to Macha, 431

Batonga Chiefs, Near Macha Mission, 435

School at Kabanzi Village, 446

Sikaluwa, 456

Brethren in Christ Cottage and Chapel at Johannesburg, 469

Mr. and Mrs. Isaac O. Lehman and Family, 474

Boxburg Mission Station. Built by Mr. Jesse Eyster, 479

PART ONE

MATOPO MISSION

"Go ye therefore and teach all nations"

--Matt. 28: 19

SOUTH AND SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA

CHAPTER ONE

The Beginning of Missionary Effort

It was at the General Conference held in May, 1894, that the Foreign

Missionary Work of the Church of the Brethren in Christ originated.

Previous to that time the old fathers of the church had made many

missionary journeys through the United States and Canada for the

advancement of Christ's Kingdom and in the interests of the faith they

so dearly loved. These journeys were made without remuneration and often

with great discomfort and sacrifice of time and money. The precept that

the Gospel was free, "without money and without price," seemed so

instilled into their hearts that some of them, no doubt, would have felt

pained for people to think that they expected money for their services.

So while the laity were busy with their own temporal duties, these

heralds of the Cross would often leave their little farms in care of

their wives and of help, hired at their own expense, and devote weeks

and months to evangelistic work, expecting what? Nothing but their food

and sometimes sufficient to pay their car fare, if they went by train.

But it often happened in those early days that the entire expense of

whatever sort was borne by themselves. They looked for no reward on

earth save the consciousness that they were about their Master's

business and seeking to extend His Kingdom on earth.

Much honor is due those old soldiers for their self-sacrificing labors.

In that Great Day when the books are opened, perhaps the record of their

labors may astonish some of us who sometimes criticise them for their

slowness in launching the foreign missionary work of the Church.

Among them were some who were greatly burdened for the heathen. Some

felt this lack of Church activity so keenly that they almost severed

their connections with it on this account. Others saw the need, but,

realizing the smallness of membership and the limited resources, thought

the Church was too weak to launch out into foreign missionary

enterprise.

In the meantime individual members were agitating the question, and some

were planning to go independently to India and to Central America, while

others were contemplating going under other Mission Boards.

While this agitation was going on, the question of foreign mission work

was brought forward at the General Conference in May, 1894, held in the

Bethel Church, Kansas. On Friday, the last day of the Conference, a

paper on the subject was read by Mrs. Rhoda Lee, but no active steps

were taken and the question was tabled indefinitely, to the great

disappointment of some present. Later, on the same day, Elder J. E.

Stauffer arose, and, placing a five-dollar bill on the table, stated

that it was for foreign mission work, then sat down. This action

brought matters to a crisis. Here was missionary money and something

must be done with it.

After consultation it was decided that the donor be appointed Foreign

Missionary Treasurer, and any desiring to donate should give their

offerings to him; and that, as soon as sufficient money was in the

treasury to justify the measure, active steps would be taken toward

sending out missionaries. By the close of the day thirty-five dollars

had been placed in the hands of the Treasurer. The funds increased

slowly but steadily.

At the Conference of 1895 held in Ontario, "A Foreign Mission Board,

consisting of Brethren Peter Steckly, B. T. Hoover, and J. E. Stauffer,

was appointed to hold office for five years, subject, however, to the

advice and control of General Council." At the next meeting of

Conference in 1896 in Pennsylvania, "The Treasurer of the Foreign

Mission Fund, J. E. Stauffer, submitted his report, and he was

congratulated for his successful effort. The amount in the treasury is

$419.60." This amount had been donated in two years. These data have

been given that it may be seen how the work has grown.

At this meeting it was decided that the funds had increased sufficiently

to take an advanced step. The Board was increased to twelve members with

an operating board of three. Of this Elder Samuel Zook was appointed

treasurer, Elder Henry Davidson, chairman, and Elder Jesse Engle,

secretary. The Board was empowered to secure volunteers for starting a

work among the heathen in some foreign country, no particular country

being designated.

Of the General Board of twelve members, Brethren Peter Steckley, J. R.

Zook, and Peter Climenhage are still on the Board after a lapse of

eighteen years.

Just what was done in the interim I cannot say, but on January 15, 1897,

there appeared in the _Evangelical Visitor_ the following:

AN APPEAL

We would call attention to the fact that the committee appointed at

last Conference is ready to act on the foreign mission work, but up

to this time they have received no applications. Why is it? Does

the Lord not speak to some hearts? Or is it because the Church is

not praying the Lord of the harvest to send laborers into His

harvest?

The field is white. The harvest is ready. Who will go forth in the

name of the Master, filled with the Holy Ghost, ready to lay his or

her life down for the cause of Christ's salvation to the heathen?

It means something to be a foreign missionary. It means a full

sacrifice of home, friends and self--a perfect cutting loose. But,

praise the Lord! when it is done for Christ's sake and the

Gospel's, we shall receive an hundredfold in this life and eternal

life in the world to come.

The Lord has provided money--somebody was willing to give it, but

who will give himself? I believe the Lord has spoken to your heart.

Just say, "Lord, speak, thy servant heareth." And if the Lord tells

you to go, don't do as Jonah--try to get away from the Lord---for

as Jonah did not fare well, neither will you. But if you obey God,

He will go with you into the ship. We are ready and waiting to

receive applications, but somebody must be willing to obey God or

the work will be delayed while souls are perishing.

If the Lord lays it upon your heart to give because you can not go

yourself, please send your donations to Elder

Jesse Engle, Donegal, Kansas, as he is the committee's secretary

and will keep a correct account of all money received and hand it

over to the treasurer. The committee has not decided yet where the

field shall be, but will decide when such workers present

themselves as are believed to be called of God. South Africa has

been spoken of; also South or Central America. No doubt God will

direct when the time comes that somebody is willing to go. Who

shall it be?

SAMUEL ZOOK.

At that time I was teaching in McPherson College, Kansas, and was

greatly enjoying the work. It was my seventh year at that place, and

just the day before the article had appeared I had entered into a verbal

agreement with the other members of the faculty to remain for some

years, the Lord willing. No thought of the foreign field had entered my

mind previous to this, except a readiness for whatever the Lord had for

me to do. Up to that time I verily thought I was doing His will by being

in the classroom.

The day that "The Appeal" appeared in the _Visitor_, it was read like

the other matter and nothing further was thought of it; but the day

following the Lord came to me, as it were, in the midst of the class

work, in the midst of other plans for the future, and swept away my

books, reserving only the Bible. In reality He showed me Christ lifted

up for a lost world. He filled me with an unutterable love for every

soul who had not heard of Him, and with a passionate longing to go to

worst parts of the earth, away from civilization, away from other

mission bodies, and spend the rest of my life in telling the story of

the Cross.

We prefer not to dwell too minutely on the feelings of that sacred hour.

Sufficient to say that there and then He anointed me for service among

the heathen. Not that I have measured up to all that He placed before me

on that day. On the contrary I have fallen far short; but the

consciousness of that call has ever been with me, and has strengthened

and kept me, in the thickest of the fight in heathen lands. Even when

the battle was sore and defeat stared me in the face, the conviction

that it was His appointment and His work for me kept me fast.

My first step was to go to my colleagues and ask to be released from the

agreement into which I had entered with them. They were as much

surprised at the turn affairs had taken as I had been, but readily

agreed not to stand in the way of the Lord's call. A letter was then

sent to the Mission Board, informing them of the call to service and my

readiness to go and at once if they deemed it advisable to send me.

Much had been said about missionary work and many had seemed eager to

go, so that I somewhat tremblingly awaited the result, feeling that they

might not consider me fitted. At the same time a private letter was

dispatched to my father, who was Chairman of the Board, telling him of

my convictions and call. A letter came first from dear father. He had

been quite unprepared for the news contained in my letter, and his

answer can best be summed up in two of his sentences: "How can I say

yes? and how dare I say no?" He closed the letter by advising me to wait

a year or two until others were ready to go. The official letter from

the Board through the Secretary, Elder Jesse Engle, stated that I was

the only applicant so far and had been accepted, but that there would be

time to finish the year's teaching. It was quite a surprise and

disappointment to me to learn that there were still no other applicants,

but not long afterwards word came that Elder Jesse Engle and wife were

likewise seriously considering the question.

He, as many of my readers know, had realized a call to give the Gospel

to the heathen while he was still a young man, but probably from lack of

encouragement and from other seemingly insurmountable obstacles had not

obeyed. Now, at the advanced age of fifty-nine years, he still felt that

his work was not done; and he was ready to enter the field, if his way

opened, even though it might appear to be at the eleventh hour. And she,

who had nobly stood by his side for so many years, could still say, "My

place is beside my husband. Where he goes I too will follow."

In the meantime the question as to the location of this first missionary

venture was beginning to agitate the minds of some of us. The Board felt

that the missionaries should be consulted in the matter. The conditions

then existing in South America were attracting the attention of the

Christian world. Some countries, notably Equador, were for the first

time being opened to missionaries. The sore need there appealed to me

and led to correspondence with others in reference to that field; but no

one was ready to go there. Later I learned from Brother Engle that he

was led to Africa, the country of his early call. The location was

immaterial to me, for my call was to the neediest field, and I soon

realized that Africa, with its unexplored depths, its superstition and

degradation, its midnight darkness, was surely in need of the Light of

Life.

The cheering news soon came that Miss Alice Heise also had applied and

been accepted as a foreign missionary. That increased the number to

four.

At the General Conference in May, 1897, at Valley Chapel, Ohio, the

following report was given and adopted:

Report of the amount of money in the hands of the Treasurer of

Foreign Mission to date, $693.46.

Four candidates presented themselves for the foreign mission field

and have been accepted as follows: Elder Jesse Engle and Sister

Elizabeth Engle, his wife, of Donegal, Kansas; Sister H. Frances

Davidson, Abilene, Kansas; and Sister Alice Heise, Hamlin, Kansas,

and if approved by Conference, it is recommended that they should

be ready to start for their field of labor as early as September or

October, provided that sufficient means are at hand to pay their

passage to their place of destination, which means are to be raised

by voluntary contributions as the Lord may direct, and to be sent

directly to the address of each of the missionaries.

The Board recommends that to complete the number of workers there

should be one more added to the number in the person of a brother

as an assistant to Brother Jesse Engle.

The Board further recommends that the Conference now in session

select some well qualified brother to fill the vacancy occasioned

by Brother Jesse Engle on the Foreign Mission Board. Brother W. O.

Baker was appointed

to fill the vacancy (provided Brother Engle should go); all of

which is respectfully submitted.

HENRY DAVIDSON, Chairman.

SAMUEL ZOOK, Treasurer.

The summer of 1897 passed slowly for some of us who were eager to be on

the way; but even the days of waiting and visiting were a part of our

preparation. They were solemn and momentous days also to others besides

those who were going. Some of the friends felt that we should not go;

others with tears bade us Godspeed, feeling that we might probably never

look one another in the face on earth again. In October a little

farewell meeting was held at Dayton, Ohio, where God's blessing was

invoked on the work, and here I said good-bye to dear old father,

realizing that it would likely be for the last time. At Harrisburg,

Pennsylvania, we were pleased to receive into our number Miss Barbara

Hershey, of Kansas, who also was called to the work.

The actual moving out of the missionaries was also a great impetus to

the financial part of the undertaking. During the few months previous to

sailing $1,500 was given by voluntary contributions into the hands of

the missionaries themselves, more than half of which was handed to

Brother and Sister Engle in their extended tour of the Brotherhood. In

addition to this, $639.70 was during the same time handed to the

Treasurer, making $1,211.64 in his hands.

On November 21 a general farewell and ordination meeting for all was

held in the Messiah Home Chapel, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, where the

five prospective missionaries were set apart for the work of the Lord.

No brother had volunteered to go along as a helper to Elder Engle. This

was a solemn time to those going, for a new and untried field was before

them and a voyage and country of which they as yet knew nothing. And yet

there was no fear, no anxiety. On the contrary, to some of us the joy of

having the privilege of being His messengers to those sitting in

darkness transcended all other emotions, and our journal of that time is

full of expressions of longing to be in darkest Africa. At that meeting

Elder Engle delivered a farewell address with power and unction from on

High, and the rest told of their call. After the ordination of all had

taken place, we commemorated the death and sufferings of our Savior.

If we may judge from expressions made at the time and since, there were

others in that large audience that evening to whom the occasion was an

important and impressive one. The Church was rising to a sense of her

opportunity and privilege--yes, and duty of carrying out the Great

Commission. As we went forth, we felt that the prayers of the entire

Church were bearing us up, and that gave renewed strength and courage

all along the way. Those prayers buoyed us up as we went forth even into

the blackness of heathendom; they opened doors that otherwise would have

been closed; yes, and best of all, they opened dark hearts that the

light of the glorious Gospel of Christ might penetrate. Those prayers

yet today are rising as sweet incense in behalf of the Dark Continent.

CHAPTER TWO

The Voyage and Landing

Now the Lord had said unto Abraham, Get thee out of thy country and from

thy kindred and from thy father's house, unto a land that I will shew

thee.--Gen. 12: 1.

Seventeen years ago a voyage to Africa was not the common occurrence to

us plain country folk that it is today. The majority of us had never

seen the sea, we knew no one who had made the trip, and we knew less

about the continent of Africa.

It had been decided that we should sail November 24, 1897. While Elder

and Mrs. Engle were making their tour of the churches, some of us had

finished visiting and were waiting the time of sailing. So he suggested

that we secure the tickets. We did so to England, and through an agent,

Mr. Mills, of England, arranged in advance for tickets from England to

Cape Town. The tickets were bought, the good-byes were over, and the

date of sailing found us all at New York Harbor, a little anxious, it is

true, but eager to launch.

Being inexperienced, we had a little difficulty in having some money

matters attended to. Sister Hershey and myself had each a draft which we

desired to have exchanged for one on an English bank, and were told by

one of the men to take them to the bank on which they were drawn and

have it attended to there. So we were obliged to go up into the city

the morning of the date of sailing, when the steamer was to leave at 12

M. We were gone all morning, only to find on reaching the bank that

there was no one to identify us, and nothing could be done. Hurrying

back to the hotel, we secured our hand baggage and hastened to the

wharf. The rest of the company had already embarked, and only a few

minutes remained until time of sailing, but we appealed to our agent to

exchange the drafts for some on an English bank. Although one of the

other men objected on account of the shortness of time, he promptly

attended to them, Elders Jacob Engle and John Niesly, who were brothers

of Brother and Sister Engle and had come to see them off, going

security. The gangway for passengers had already been removed from the

steamer and we hurried along that on which baggage was carried. As soon

as we were aboard, the steamer _Majestic_ began to move; and ere we

found the rest of our company on board, a narrow stretch of water lay

between us and our native land.

This, our first voyage across the Atlantic, was a delightful one. The

sea was unusually calm for that season of the year, so that none of our

number became sick, except one, as we neared the coast of Ireland. The

passengers on board were on the whole congenial. As we paced up and down

the deck, many thoughts crowded in upon us too deep for utterance. What

did the future have in store for us? What awaited us on the other side?

The Lord alone, whose messengers we were, could foresee. The great,

wide, boundless space of water was an ever-increasing source of

interest and delight, and greatly enlarged our conception of the power

and majesty of Him "who hath measured the waters in the hollow of His

hand." We felt in truth that we had let go the shore lines and had

launched out into the ocean of His love.

The second day out was Thanksgiving Day, and in company with another

missionary on board we had a very enjoyable service which was attended

by most of the second-class passengers. Sunday morning there were the

regulation Church of England services, and later our genial table

steward asked Elder Engle to preach in the evening. He did so to a

large, intelligent, and interested congregation. As there had been much

conjecture among the passengers as to who we were, and what our belief

was, he embraced the opportunity, while speaking, of setting forth some

of the tenets of our faith, much to the satisfaction of those present.

On November 31 the steamer reached Liverpool, England, and the first

part of the voyage was at an end. As we stood on deck gazing at the

strange scenes around us and at the sea of unfamiliar faces looking up

into ours, and awaiting our turn to disembark, we realized in truth that

we were strangers in a strange land. How was our agent to be found on

that crowded wharf?--but this question was quickly settled. No sooner

had we stepped off the gangway, than a gentleman approached, and, naming

us, introduced himself as Mr. Mills, our agent. What a relief it was to

all of us in our ignorance of foreign travel! We were thus forcibly

reminded that He was going before and preparing the way so that we need

have no anxious fear. This thought was further impressed upon our minds

as we entered our room in the little hotel in Liverpool, for there, on

the opposite wall, as we opened the door were the words, "The Lord shall

be thy confidence." Mr. Mills then and there took charge of us and our

baggage and did not relax his vigilance until we had safely embarked for

South Africa.

Fortunate it was that our baggage was in such good hands, for part of it

had been miscarried and reached the steamer at Southampton only about an

hour before we left that port for South Africa. English travel has many

things to recommend it, some of which Americans would do well to profit

by; but one learns to appreciate the excellent system of handling

baggage in America only after he has had a little experience of the

slipshod manner in vogue abroad. This fact was again brought to my

attention on my first furlough to America nearly seven years later. When

I disembarked at New York, an English lady from the same steamer bought

a railroad ticket from New York to San Francisco and checked her

baggage.

I said to her, "Now you need not trouble yourself about your baggage

until you reach your destination."

"So they tell me," she replied. "It will seem so strange to travel

without having to look after one's luggage."

One is pleased to note, however, that the increased amount of foreign

travel of late years has brought about some improvement along this line,

even in conservative England.

The ride from Liverpool to London was most enjoyable, and would have

been still more so had there been some one to point out the places of

interest. The fields, still green at that late date, were well kept; but

the methods employed in farming seemed somewhat antiquated to people

fresh from the farms of western America. As the train glided along we

were favored with a glimpse of a hunting party in their brilliant

colored costumes in pursuit of the poor little animals on one of the

game reserves. The small private compartments on the train were a

pleasing novelty, but there was no one to call off the names of the

cities through which the train was passing, and the surroundings were

too new for us to know where to look for the names. Once when the guard

came to examine our tickets, I inquired the name of the place.

Concluding from his silence that he had not understood, I ventured to

repeat the question. The stare he gave made me realize that I had been

guilty of a breach of something, but what it was is not exactly clear to

me to this day. We also had a glimpse of London, that great metropolis,

with its narrow, crowded streets, its rush of business, and its

perfectly-controlled business traffic. Here our company was met by

another agent, who conveyed us to Black Wall and placed us on the

steamer _Pembroke Castle_, of the Union Castle Line, for a three weeks'

voyage to Cape Town.

The associations on the _Majestic_ had been pleasant and we expected a

similar experience on this second steamer; but the long voyage to Cape

Town leaves much to be desired. One may always find some congenial

spirits, but even under the best circumstances the voyage finally

becomes tiresome. Only too often the more turbulent element gains the

upperhand, so that drinking, gambling, dancing, and even grosser evils

prevail.

After sailing from Southampton one soon leaves behind the cold, chilly

winds of the temperate climate and begins to enjoy the soft, balmy

breezes of the subtropical climate. However, as the heat becomes more

intense, this enjoyment gradually gives place to discomfort. The only

stop on the way to Cape Town was at Las Palmas, on Canary Island. As we

approached the place, the low-lying mountain peaks could have been

mistaken for clouds, but soon the entire island lay before us in all its

beauty. What appeared at first sight to be bare cliffs were soon seen to

be clothed with verdure; and while we were feasting our eyes on the

scene, on one side of the steamer, our attention was called to the

opposite side where the city of Las Palmas lay. It was indeed a

magnificent scene and beggars description. The city, which is almost

entirely white, rises tier after tier up the mountain side, and the

whole had a dark background of mountain peaks. We were in the bay with

the island nearly surrounding us. In a short time our steamer was

encompassed by a number of small boats full of natives, some of whom

came to sell their wares of fruit or fancywork. Other boats were full of

diving boys, ready to plunge into the sea for money thrown from the

steamer into the water.

In a short time the steamer was again on its way; but where was it

taking the little band of missionaries? and what was to be their final

destination? Their tickets called for Cape Town, but beyond that the way

seemed like a sealed book. Africa, with its barbarism, its unknown

depths, its gross darkness, lay before them; and they were keenly

conscious of their ignorance of the continent. They had implicit

confidence, however, in their Great Leader, and believed that they were

going to a place which the Lord said He would show them. Many prayers

ascended that they might understand His voice when He spoke to them.

Personally their ideas about the location of the work differed. At first

Elder Engle felt drawn for various reasons towards the Transvaal (not

Johannesburg), because that was not so far inland. To one of the party

the call had been distinctly into the interior and most needy regions

where Christ had not been named. All, however, were ready to let the

Lord lead.

A number of the passengers on the steamer were familiar with some parts

of Africa and gave valuable information. One of the officers, the chief

engineer, was especially helpful. He brought out his maps and went

carefully over the ground, showing where missionaries were located and

where there was need. Ere the party left the steamer, the consensus of

opinion seemed to be that Rhodesia, or the part of it known as

Matabeleland, was the Lord's place for them to begin aggressive

missionary work. This was further confirmed when it was learned that the

Cape to Cairo Railroad had just been completed as far as Bulawayo, the

chief town of Matabeleland.

This having been decided upon, the next question was as to how long they

were to remain at Cape Town before proceeding into the interior. The

amount of money at their disposal was not large, and as it was the

Lord's money it was necessary to know His will as to its disposal. They

soon learned that He was continuing to go before and prepare the way.

Those were precious days of waiting on Him; for never does His will and

guidance seem so precious as when He is showing only one step at a time,

and as one becomes willing to take that, lo! another is revealed just

beyond. Why then do we so often halt, fearing to walk alone with Him,

knowing that we cannot stumble as long as we keep hold of His dear hand?

On December 26 the steamer entered beautiful Table Bay, and the long

voyage was over. Praises ascended to Him Who had given such a prosperous

journey. It was Sunday when land was reached and the passengers were

allowed to remain on board the steamer until Monday if they so desired.

All of us attended divine services on land Sunday morning, and in the

afternoon Brother and Sister Engle went to the Y. W. C. A. Building

where the Secretary, Miss Reed, offered to help them look for rooms.

They accordingly went on Monday morning, the rest of us remaining with

the boxes and in prayer. They at first were unsuccessful in securing

rooms, but after again looking to the Lord for guidance, Miss Reed was

impressed to take them to a Mrs. Lewis (nee Shriner), a prominent

temperance and reform worker of Cape Town, and a most devoted

Christian. This lady was a friend in need to many of God's children. She

had lately rented a large building in connection with her work; but the

venture had not been as successful as she had hoped, and she was in

prayer about the matter, pleading that the place might be made a

blessing to some one. Even as she prayed, three persons stood at her

door desiring to speak with her. These were Miss Reed and Elder and Mrs.

Engle, whom the Lord had directed thither. As soon as she heard their

errand, she felt that here was an answer to her prayer. Arrangements

were immediately made by which they were to receive three

plainly-furnished rooms for a sum which was very moderate indeed for

Cape Town. She said she would prefer to give the rooms gratis if she

were in a position financially to do so. Together they fell on their

knees and thanked the Lord for answered prayer which meant so much to

all concerned. When Elder Engle returned to the waiting ones their

hearts, too, leaped for joy at the good news. They thought it was almost

too good to be true, that so soon rooms had been secured, and that they

were to have a little home of their own without the expenses of a hotel.

Truly, "He is able to do exceeding abundantly all that we ask or think."

Boxes were soon transferred to the new home and our feet planted firmly

on African soil.

CHAPTER THREE

Preparation and Progress

We were here on the threshold of Africa, eager to move out. We realized,

however, how meager was our knowledge of this vast continent and its

needs, so it was necessary to go slow and gain all possible information

from this vantage ground.

Cape Town is the oldest of South African cities and is the largest

seaport town, having a population of about 80,000 inhabitants. The long,

tiresome sea voyage being over, the sight of this picturesque city,

nestling so cozily at the foot of Table Mountain, is one long to be

remembered. The mountain rises abruptly 3,850 feet in the background of

the city. Its majestic flat top is two miles long, and when the weather

is clear, it stands sharply outlined against the blue sky. Frequently,

however, a white cloud, known as the "Table Cloth," comes up from the

sea from the back of the mountain and rolls down over the face, a sign

that a change of weather is imminent. It has been said, "The glory of

Table Bay is Table Mountain," and "The glory of Table Mountain is the

Table Cloth." Bay, town, and mountain combine to make the picture

beautiful and unique of its kind.

Cape Town was laid out by the Dutch, and the substantial,

antiquated-looking houses in the older parts of the city bear ample

testimony to this fact. There are also many fine, modernly-built houses.

The place is supplied with all the latest improvements, which are a

necessary part of a modern city. The population is most varied. Dutch,

English, Hottentots, Malays, and Kafirs abound. The scenes on some of

the streets at that time, especially in the evenings and on holidays,

were most varied and picturesque. There were to be seen Europeans in

civilian dress, others in soldier's uniform, Malays in their turbans and

bright, flowing robes, well-dressed blacks, and the raw native African

with only a gunny sack to cover him, for clothed he must be before he

can enter the city.

Mr. and Mrs. Lewis, together with other Christian people whom we met at

Cape Town, thought Matabeleland, the chosen field, was a good one,

especially the Matopo Hills, as there were no missionaries in that

locality. The late Cecil Rhodes, who was still powerful in Rhodesia, was

at that time living on his estate, Groot Schuur, near Cape Town, and

Bishop Engle was advised to go to him and endeavor to obtain from him a

tract of land for a mission site. This was another special season of

looking to the Lord on the part of the little company, that He might

overrule it to His glory and to the advancement of His Kingdom. Brother

Engle was received kindly by the gentleman, and his request was

favorably considered, especially the suggestion of going to the Matopo

Hills. He at once gave Brother Engle a letter to the British Charter

Company, of Rhodesia, with the recommendation that we be given 3,000

acres of land in the Matopo Hills for a mission station. He added that

"missionaries are better than policemen and cheaper."

Every forward step only served to confirm us in the decision on the

steamer that Matabeleland, which is a part of Rhodesia, was the Lord's

place for opening up His work in Africa. The fact that the railroad had

just shortly before been completed that far, thus making it easier of

access; the advice of those on the steamer who were familiar with the

country; the advice of the spiritually-minded friends met at Cape Town,

and the encouragement given by him, the "Empire Builder," who perhaps

more than anyone else had the welfare of the country at heart and whose

name, Rhodesia, the country bore, together with the conviction of the

missionaries themselves, all served to set at rest any further question

as to location that might arise.

Sister Hershey, it is true, was somewhat burdened as to whether Rhodesia

was the Lord's place for her. While she was seeking to know His will in

the matter, she received a letter from Mr. and Mrs. Worcester, of

Johannesburg, inviting her to come and assist in the missionary work at

the Compounds. She felt at once that this was the Lord's place for her,

and accepted it as from Him. We were truly sorry to lose so valuable and

consecrated a colaborer in the work, but felt to bow in submission to

Him Who knoweth best.

While we were waiting at Cape Town, we learned that the Tebele language

spoken by the natives in Matopo Hills and vicinity was a dialect of the

Zulu language. The Bible had been translated into the Zulu, and there

were grammars and dictionaries to be had, and we at once endeavored to

procure these so that we might do some studying. Efforts were also made

to secure a teacher, but the Zulu teacher recommended did not have

sufficient English to be of any real service to us except in the

pronunciation of Zulu words, so we were obliged to study on alone and

consequently made very little progress.

We had arrived at Cape Town in the midst of the summer and dry season.

Like California, Cape Town and vicinity have rains chiefly in the

winter, and a most healthful climate the year round. Other parts of

South Africa, however, have their rainy season in the summer, and in

some localities, notably Rhodesia and farther inland, the deadly

malarial fever is especially severe during the rainy season. So we were

advised to remain at Cape Town until the rains were over in Rhodesia.

Mr. Lewis was contemplating going north with us to assist Brother Engle

in opening the work; but before this could be accomplished, both he and

Mrs. Lewis were summoned north to Bulawayo by a telegram to minister to

one of their friends there who was very sick.

After reaching Bulawayo they immediately sent a telegram south telling

us to remain at Cape Town, and under no consideration to venture into

the interior until the rains were over. As if to emphasize the message,

both of them, while attending to the sick, were stricken with fever, and

all were obliged to hasten south as soon as possible. We also came into

contact with some of the Seventh Day Adventists in Cape Town, and

through them learned that two of their missionaries in Rhodesia had

just succumbed to the fever.

From the illness brought on at this time Mr. Lewis never fully

recovered, and shortly after our departure from Cape Town, we learned,

much to our sorrow, that he had been carried away by the disease. We

were often made to feel, as Mrs. Lewis expressed it, that the Lord had

sent them before us to preserve life. Otherwise we would undoubtedly

have gone to Bulawayo at an earlier date than we did and would probably

have had to suffer in consequence. We shall never forget the great

kindness of these friends during the entire four months of our stay at

Cape Town. The wise counsel, the spiritual and financial aid which they

gave, will ever be a green spot in our memory. And not only then, but in

later years, Mrs. Lewis' home, "The Highlands," and her large heart were

ever open to our missionaries. As each recruit stepped foot on Africa's

shores she was the first to welcome him. When any needed rest, her house

was wide open for any who might choose to come and rest there. When a

few years ago word came that she had gone to meet her Savior Whom she so

much loved, we all felt that we had indeed lost a friend that could not

be replaced.

At last the time came when it was considered safe to move out, Sister

Hershey to Johannesburg and the rest to Bulawayo. Mrs. Lewis had given

us a nice large tent, 16 x 16 feet, which could be used as a dwelling

place while huts were being built, and she had also on her trip north

met some of the white people of Bulawayo who were ready to assist us.

Other friends at Cape Town also kindly helped us on the way.

On April 28, 1898, we took the train at Cape Town, bound for Bulawayo,

1,362 miles inland. We traveled four days and four nights in a

comfortable coach and reached the place May 2. The same journey formerly

required six months and longer with an ox team. We passed through only a

few towns worthy the name; Kimberley, the center of the diamond mines,

being the principal one. Some of the country through which we passed

looked like a desert; not a blade of grass to be seen, but the red sand

is covered with bushes. This is known as the Karroo, and, as rain seldom

falls on much of this land, one is surprised to see flocks of sheep and

here and there an ostrich farm. There are many flat-topped mountains and

hills, at the foot of which one occasionally catches sight of a

farmhouse with its accompanying sheep pen. A letter sent to America at

the time adds:

Parts greatly resemble Kansas prairies, while the last four or five

hundred miles of the journey the country looks like old, deserted

orchards. We were also introduced to African life in its primitive

state, and during the latter part of the journey no white people

were visible save the few connected with the railway service, but

many native huts were to be seen. Some were made of mud, others

formed of poles covered with various-colored cloth, forming a

veritable patchwork, while the natives in semi-nude condition came

crowding about the car windows, begging for money and food. How my

heart bled for these poor souls! Although the railroad was built,

ostensibly, for the purpose of developing the commercial and mining

interests of the country; yet, as I looked upon those poor natives,

I wondered whether the real

purpose of it under the Providence of God was not to bring the

Gospel to them. Other missionaries are here before us, but I

believe we are the first to make use of the new railroad for this

purpose.

CHAPTER FOUR

Matabeleland

Before proceeding with my story let me introduce to my readers the

people and the country to which we had come. The Matabele are a branch

of the Zulu tribe of Southeast Africa. During the reign of the great and

despotic Zulu King, Tyaka, they revolted under the leadership of

Mzilikazi, or Moselikatse, and started north through Africa, proving a

terror to the various tribes along the way and meeting with numerous

hardships and varying degrees of success. About the year 1836 found them

in this country, to which they gave the name Matabeleland. This land,

together with Mashonaland, constitutes what is now known as Southern

Rhodesia.

Here they established themselves by ruthlessly slaughtering all who

opposed them, and enslaving the natives already in the country. After

the death of Mzilikazi, his son, Lobengula, became King. He was more or

less tyrannical, like his father, and he lived with his sixty wives

about two miles from what is now known as Bulawayo--the killing

place--or, as the natives often say, "o Bulawayo," meaning murderer. A

rock near this place is still pointed out as the place where a number of

his wives met a violent death.

This King Lobengula ruled his people with a rod of iron. The young men

were all enlisted in his army and the women and children left to carry

on the work in the gardens and kraals. Rev. Helm, one of the first

missionaries in the country, said it was impossible to get hold of the

young men; and even if the boys did start to school, the King would take

them for his own use as soon as they were old enough. He, however, never

molested the missionaries themselves, and probably considered it an

honor to have a white teacher in the country; but, as Mrs. Helm

remarked, they were careful not to offend him.

The British Charter Company had obtained some concessions from the King

in 1889, and, in the next year, Europeans entered the country to

prospect and mine the gold. It was a foreseen conclusion that there

would eventually be a conflict between a savage despot, to whom many of

the white people were obliged to cringe, and a civilized people. The

inevitable reached a climax in 1893, when war broke out between the King

and the white people of the country. There were only a few white men in

the country at that time, but assegais and other native weapons were no

match for Maxim guns and European tactics. The King's house being burnt,

he himself fled and eventually died in January, 1894, thus causing the

war suddenly to come to an end, as there remained no one to keep the

forces together. The British South African Company took possession and

began to occupy and build up the country.

The Matabele, however, did not consider themselves conquered, and many

circumstances conspired to bring about a second conflict. Perhaps the

chief among these was the fact that all the cattle were regarded as the

property of the King, although being distributed among the people and

used by them as their own. However, since the cattle belonged to the

King, the British Company looked upon them as theirs by right of

conquest, and proceeded to appropriate some of them. This greatly

angered the natives, as also the rinderpest, which came later and swept

off many of the remaining cattle. Then 400 of the subject tribes were

armed and enlisted as native police; and this was most galling to the

proud Matabele warriors, that they should be exulted over by their

former slaves. The disease among their cattle, the locust, which

devoured their crops, and numerous other troubles were all, by their

witch doctors, laid at the door of the white man. Umlimo (their god)

also affirmed that their King was still alive and was ready to assist

them in gaining their liberty.

This second conflict, known as the Matabele Rebellion of 1896, came very

suddenly upon the 4,000 white people, scattered in various parts of the

country. No one seemed to expect danger, although there were several who

had had a little warning, and many natives who were working in Bulawayo

were called home by their parents. One boy in speaking of the time said:

"I was working in Bulawayo when my father sent word that I was to come

home. I did not want to but I was afraid to disobey. I was afraid to

look at my father, he looked like a mad man. He said, 'We cannot live

and be oppressed like this. We would rather die than be treated as we

are!'

"The rest of the people, too, looked just that way!"

The natives rose against the Europeans and suddenly murdered 200 in the

outlying districts, including a number of women and children. Some of

these were murdered by their own servants. The rest of the white people

hastily gathered into the new town of Bulawayo, while soldiers scoured

the country in search of native troops. A large number of the native

police had gone over to the enemy, carrying their rifles with them, and

a number of the natives, both in Matabeleland and Mashonaland, had in

some way secured several thousand firearms; so that in this war the

natives were much better prepared.

This rebellion lasted eight months, and the natives were finally driven

into the Matopo Hills. In these, nature's vast strongholds and caves,

all efforts of the European soldiers to dislodge them proved unavailing.

Here finally came Mr. Rhodes, unarmed, into the midst of the enemy's

camp and made peace with them. The tree under which this famous council

was held is still pointed out not many miles from where Matopo Mission

now is. We entered the country a little over a year after the close of

the rebellion, while all the causes and events were still fresh in the

minds of the natives. What is still more significant, we were located in

the very heart of these hills where no missionary had yet penetrated,

and being surrounded by many of the rebels themselves, we were able to

glean much of the above history at first hand. When we went among them

they were still seething with discontent from the same cause which led

to the Rebellion.

Mr. Rhodes, who had made peace with these natives, was always respected

and trusted by them, and while he was no religious man himself, he

thoroughly believed in missionary work among the people. His desire that

we come to these hills and his statement, that "missionaries are better

than policemen, and cheaper," was actuated by no mercenary motive. It

was his conviction, borne out by experience and by long years of contact

with the Africans, that missionary work and the Christianization of the

natives was the only solution of the native problems.

But to return to our story, we arrived at Bulawayo late in the evening

and were taken to the Royal Hotel. This was a good, up-to-date hotel,

with an up-to-date African price. In the morning, as we looked out of

the window, the first sight which greeted our eyes was a large African

wagon drawn by eighteen oxen. Except for this and similar sights we

could easily have imagined that we were in an American town, for this

place, with broad streets and thriving business, is said to have been

patterned somewhat after American cities. My impressions of the town and

vicinity written at the time were as follows:

Bulawayo is a modern wonder, an oasis of civilization in the midst

of a desert of barbarism and heathendom. It has nearly 3,000

inhabitants, and has been built since 1894. Before that time

Lobengula, the great Matabele King, held sway about two miles from

here at the place where the Government House now stands. This place

reminds one of the booming Kansas towns of a few

years ago, but it is hundreds of miles from any other civilized

place, and is well built of brick and iron, has good stores of all

kinds, five churches, public library, electric lights and

telephone, not only in town, but also extending to various police

forts in the surrounding country, but no public schools. There are

comfortable riding cabs, or traps, drawn by horses or mules, but

the traffic is carried on by heavy carts or still heavier wagons

drawn by a large number of oxen or donkeys. The manual labor is

done chiefly by the native boys, the white people considering it

beneath their dignity to do anything a native can do.

The surrounding country is very pretty and level, and one can see an

abundance of the "golden sands" mentioned by the poet, and even gold

sands are not wanting, but I am sorry to say that the "sunny

fountains" rolling down them are very few, especially at this season

of the year when there are seven months of drought!

This for Bulawayo in 1898 and first impressions.

We remained at the hotel only two days. Our tent and the other goods had

not yet arrived, but a gentleman, to whom we had a letter of

introduction through Mrs. Lewis, most kindly offered the use of his

house and furniture for two weeks, which offer was gratefully accepted.

Before the end of that time our tent had arrived, and this being placed

on a vacant lot furnished ample protection for that season of the year.

Bulawayo, being of such recent growth and being surrounded by pagan

tribes, would have afforded abundant opportunity for missionary work.

Daily these raw natives would come to our tent door to sell wood or

other articles; and we longed to tell them something of a Savior's love,

had we been able to speak to them. One morning thirteen native women,

each with a great load of wood on her head, arranged themselves, smiling

and expectant, before the door of our tent. We could only smile in

return, that one touch of nature's language which is akin the world

over. We were thankful that we could do so much, but back of the smile

was a heavy heart that we could do so little.

During the two months we remained at Bulawayo efforts were made to

secure a suitable location among the Matopo Hills. Mr. Rhodes' letter

had been delivered to the government officials, and they generously

undertook to assist in locating the work. The first place to which they

took Brother Engle--the one recommended by Mr. Rhodes--was found to have

been surveyed by a private individual. They then made another selection,

about thirty miles southeast of Bulawayo, the place now known as Matopo

Mission, and they agreed to give us here a Mission Reservation of 3,000

acres. The officials, as well as other Europeans in Bulawayo, rendered

us much assistance. In addition to these the Seventh Day Adventist

missionaries also greatly helped us on the way. These had a mission

station about thirty miles west of Bulawayo, and about fifty miles from

the place selected for us; and while we were waiting in Bulawayo, they

kindly took out, at different times, Brother and Sister Engle and Sister

Heise, for a visit to their station.

The time came for us to move out to our location among the hills, and

the question of how we should get ourselves and our goods to the place

was becoming a serious one. Transportation, like everything else in the

interior of Africa, was exceedingly expensive. In this emergency Mr.

Anderson, of the Seventh Day Adventist Mission, offered to come that

long way with his donkey wagon and move us for half the sum required by

a regular transport driver.

It is difficult for the reader to form any conception of what these

various expressions of kindness along the way, coming so unexpectedly

from entire strangers, meant to that little band of missionaries out in

the heart of Africa. Even as I write these things, after a lapse of

sixteen years, and live over the events of that time, tears of joy

unbidden come and my heart wells up in gratitude as I again recall these

evidences of the wonderful "faithfulness of a faithful God."

We had been ignorant of our destination when we left the American shore,

and even more ignorant of the cost of living in the interior of Africa;

so that, by the time supplies had been purchased to take along to the

hills, the money on hand was about exhausted. We knew not how long a

time would elapse before a fresh supply could reach us. Knowing, too,

that the Church had very little experience in foreign missionary work,

one could not fail at times to be a little anxious. Thanks, however, to

the wisdom, ability, and promptness displayed by the old fathers who

formed the Mission Board, and to their support, backed up by the Church;

as soon as conditions were understood at home means were forthcoming and

we were never allowed to be in want.

CHAPTER FIVE

The Opening of the Work

We must remember that it was not by interceding for the world in glory

that Jesus saved it. He gave Himself. Our prayers for the evangelization

of the world are but a bitter irony so long as we only give of our

superfluity and draw back before the sacrifice of ourselves.--M.

Francois Coillard.

We heartily echo the words of this sainted missionary to the Barotse,

but we believe that the thought uppermost in the heart of each of the

four waiting ones at Bulawayo was not sacrifice but privilege, on that

July morning, so long ago, when the command to go forward was given. We

were soon to reach our destination, the place to which we had started

from New York over seven months previously. An account of this trip

written at the time reads somewhat as follows:

We left Bulawayo on the evening of July 4 and traveled three nights

and two days before the mission valley was reached. The nights were

cool and a bright moon lighted up the way, so that traveling went

better at night than during the heat of the day. The wagon was

about eighteen feet long, very strong and heavy, and was drawn by

eighteen donkeys. These were led by one native boy, while another

with a long whip was doing the driving. The load of about three

tons was very heavy--too heavy, in fact, for a part of the way.

Donkeys can travel only two miles an hour on good roads and on poor

roads it sometimes requires two hours to go one mile. Occasionally

we stopped from two to four hours to let the donkeys rest and

graze.

During such times we would build fire on the veldt, and cook and eat

our food; or, if it were night, we would wrap our blankets about us,

take our pillows, and lie down in the shelter of some friendly bush

and sleep. Mother Engle usually preferred the shelter of the tent on

the back of the wagon, although the place was too much crowded for her

to rest comfortably. Since the load was so heavy we spent a great deal

of the time walking. We would walk ahead of the wagon for a distance,

then sit down and rest until the wagon reached us. Only two of three

settlers' houses were visible, and no native kraals, and we were

informed that as soon as the white man makes a road, the natives move

away from it.

After twenty miles of travel we came to Fort Usher. At this place

there reside an English magistrate and a number of white police. Here

we were kindly received and given a native guide for the rest of the

journey. We now left the government road and plunged into the hills.

The wagon went along another five miles with very little difficulty.

Then it mired on going through a swampy place, one side sinking nearly

to the hubs of the wheels, and further progress was impossible. All

put forth every effort to extricate it but to no avail. What was to be

done?

While we were in this dilemma, the Chief of the natives in this part

of the country, Hluganisa by name, with some natives came to meet us

and bid us welcome. They gave us a very friendly reception, and then

joined in to assist in extricating the wagon, but without success. Mr.

Anderson, who could speak the native language, explained to the chief

who we were and our object in coming, and he promised to meet us at

the mission site the next day, as it was now evening.

Mr. Anderson then took our party forward a little distance to a dry

spot, where we rested during the night. He and his native boys

returned to the wagon, and, removing the greater part of the load,

carried it beyond the marshy place. The donkeys were then able to pull

out the wagon. It is needless to add that Mr. Anderson and his boys

were extremely tired after this laborious task and were glad to

snatch a little rest. Even under such circumstances they did not

indulge long in the much-needed rest, but at an early hour were

again ready for the journey. Those of us who had enjoyed a good

night's rest were also aroused, and we started on our last trek

into the hills. We reached the valley, which is to be our home, on

the morning of July 7.

This valley is surrounded by immense granite hills and boulders, some

of which cover hundreds of acres, so that at first sight the rocks

seem to constitute the chief part of the country, but a closer

inspection showed us to what a beautiful place God had led us for His

work. There, spread out before our eyes, was a beautiful rolling

valley of rich, dark earth, well supplied with an abundance of fresh

water. It was stated that the "sunny fountains" are rare in this part

of Africa, and that is true. Here, however, in this beautiful valley,

in the heart of Matopo Hills, are sparkling fountains of beautiful

water, crystal clear, oozing from under the surface of the rocks, and

flowing down the valley. Some contain delicate mosses and pretty water

lilies, and surpass the Michigan lakes in transparency.

In the meantime the Chief had sent word to the headmen of the various

kraals to meet us. So, in the morning, obedient to the call of their

superior, they came and sat in a semi-circle while their chief

addressed them (Mr. Anderson interpreting for our benefit):

"These are not like other white people."

The deep-toned voices of the headmen responded in unison, "Yes, my

lord."

He continued, "They have come to teach you and your children and to do

you good."

Again came the response, "Yes, my lord."

"Now do what you can for them and help them."

And again the same response was repeated.

One may imagine how that impressed us. Here we are, far from other

white people, among a class of natives who have never been subdued by

the English soldiers. They are kept in subjection only by forts of

police stationed among the hills, the nearest being ten miles distant.

Yet these people recognized us at once as their friends and received

us with kindness far above what we dared expect. Our hearts overflow

with thankfulness to Him who rules the hearts of men.

The Chief and one or two other natives went with us to look up a

location on which to pitch the tent and build huts. The tent was finally

pitched under the shade of a large umkuni tree, Mr. Anderson returned to

his station, and we were left without an interpreter, and with no

practical knowledge of mission work. We had, however, a Great Teacher,

and we were willing to be taught.

Both Matabele and their subject races, known as Amahole, live in the

Matopo Hills. The majority of them are not black, but a chocolate brown,

and some have features resembling white people. They are generally

large, well-formed, and intelligent-looking. They are more or less rude

in manner, uncouth in appearance, and wear little or no clothing except

the loin cloth. This in the men usually consists of the skin of small

animals, and among the women a short skirt of cloth or skins. Over the

upper part of the body is sometimes thrown a larger piece of cloth.

Among those that gathered about us that first day were some who had been

quite active in the late rebellion. As we gained their confidence, they

often pointed out to us the caves where they stored their grain, and

where they themselves hid during that terrible time. A year of famine

had followed the war, and some had starved to death. At the time we

entered upon the work there was a great deal of destitution all about

us; for some had not yet been able to grow grain, and they had no flocks

to fall back upon as they usually had in time of grain famine.

Many of the white people in the country and in Bulawayo were continually

talking about and expecting another uprising. They looked for it to come

from these Matopo Hill natives, and some sought to warn us not to

venture into this, the enemy's stronghold. We, however, living among

them from day to day, saw no cause for fear.

The natives came to see us in large numbers. Sometimes fifty would

appear in one day and crowd around the door of our tent, desiring to

have a good view of the newcomers and their belongings. Many of them,

especially the women and children, had never seen a white person before,

or at most a white woman. Some three or four families had heard a little

of Jesus, but the great majority knew absolutely nothing of the Gospel.

Our ignorance, both of the language and the people, led to many

blunders, both ludicrous and otherwise. The desire to help them and to

show them that we were their friends caused them often to take advantage

of our kindness. We soon learned that the African is not so much

interested in the things that are for the good of his soul as in that

which ministers to his body and appetite. It was so difficult to know

just what to do at all times, for they were destitute of nearly

everything which we considered necessary for comfort. They were

confirmed beggars, and the more they received the more they wanted. The

missionary opens his Bible, and reads, "He that hath two coats, let him

impart to him that hath none; and he that hath meat let him do

likewise"; he then gets down on his knees and prays that the Lord might

help the poor souls about him, but he often feels that his prayers do

not ascend very high. What he needs to do is to get up and answer his

own prayers.

[Illustration: Hut Built by H. Frances Davidson and Alice Heise at

Matopo.]

When we made a contract with them for work, and told them what pay they

would receive, they always wanted more than the contract called for when

the time came to settle. This is characteristic of the native in dealing

with the white man. He sees that the other has clothing and many

comforts of which he is deprived, hence concludes that the pockets of

the white man are full of money. Socialist that he naturally is, he

thinks that the property should be equally distributed. It never occurs

to him that his laziness and shiftlessness have much to do with his

destitution. In fact, that thought does not generally occur to the

missionary when he goes among the heathen for the first time, unless he

is with some one who understands the situation.

It is necessary to make the natives understand at times that the

kindness of even the missionary has a limit. One day I was in the little

straw shed which served as a kitchen, and was endeavoring to bake bread.

As usual a number of people were about the door, and one man, taking

advantage of my kindness, came in and sat down by the stove in front of

the bake-oven door. He made no effort in the least to move away when I

tried to look into the oven door. I bore it for some time, not wishing

to be rude to him, and not knowing how to ask him in a polite way to

move. Suddenly it dawned upon me that the proper native word was _suka_.

So I made use of the word and told him to _suka_. He looked up in

surprise and repeated the word to know if he had correctly understood,

but he moved. Afterwards, in looking for the word in my dictionary, I

found that it was a word often in the mouth of the white man when

addressing a native. It really meant a rough "Get out of this." So the

look of mild reproach in the eyes of the native was accounted for. Some

of the softness in the missionary, too, soon wears off as he is obliged

to deal with the native from day to day. He finds that it is necessary

to make the native understand their relation one to another as teacher

and pupil.

Living in a tent during the dry and healthy season is not unpleasant in

such a climate, except that one suffers from the heat by day and the

cold by night.

Matopo Mission is located about 20-1/2 deg. south latitude and 29 deg. east

longitude. It is 5,000 feet above sea level, so that, although it is

within the tropics, it has a delightful and salubrious climate the

entire year. From the middle of November to the middle of April is what

is known as the rainy season. The rest of the year rain seldom falls.

One cannot live in a tent all the year, but must provide better shelter

for the rainy season. So hut building occupied the first few months. We

had no wagon and no oxen, nothing but two little donkeys, which had been

brought out with us from Bulawayo, and we did not know how to make the

best use of native help. The poles used in the construction of the huts

were cut and carried to the place of building by natives.

As the manner of building was quite foreign to an American, Brother

Engle took occasion to examine other huts, built by Europeans, so that

he was enabled to build very good ones for the mission. He was alone

and, to make the work lighter, we women assisted, and used hammer, saw,

and trowel, brought stones for building chimneys, raked grass, and

assisted in thatching. The huts are built somewhat as follows:

A trench about fifteen inches deep is dug the size and shape of the

desired hut. In this are placed, near together, poles from the forest,

space being allowed for doors and windows and sometimes for fireplace.

The poles are cut out so as to extend about eight feet above ground.

Large ones are sawed lengthwise for door posts and window frames. Some

flexible poles are nailed around the top and about halfway up the side,

so that the walls of the hut are firmly fastened together. Longer poles

are then used as rafters, these being firmly fastened to the walls and

nailed together at the top. Small, flexible ones are also used as lath

to fasten the rafters together and upon which to tie the grass in

thatching. The grass used for this purpose grows in abundance among

these rocks, and sometimes reaches the height of eight feet. The women

cut this and bring it in bundles, glad to exchange it for a little salt.

It is first combed by means of spikes driven through a board. It is then

divided into small bundles; the lower ends being placed evenly together,

and the bundles tied closely together on the lath with tarred rope. The

next layer is placed over this like shingles, so as to cover the place

of tying. When completed the thickness of grass on the eaves of the roof

is from four to ten inches. Then follows the plastering. The mud or

plaster is made from earth which had been worked over by white ants.

This, pounded fine and mixed with water, makes an excellent plaster, and

when placed on the walls it soon dries and becomes very hard. The native

women put this on the outside with their hands, as the walls are too

uneven to allow the use of a trowel. Similar earth, mixed with sand, is

used as mortar in building with brick and stone. The floors also are of

this earth pounded hard and polished.

The windows have either small panes of glass or muslin stretched on a

frame, and the doors boast of imported timber brought from Bulawayo.

Each hut is about as large as an average-sized room. It is difficult to

make them larger on account of the scarcity of suitable material in this

part of the country. The walls are whitewashed on the inside, and some

have a white muslin ceiling. Much of the furniture is of our own

manufacture and is made of boxes or of native poles draped with calico.

When completed the rooms looked quite cozy and comfortable, so that we

felt thankful for such pleasant homes in connection with our work. The

first year there were four of such huts built, kitchen, dining-hut, and

two sleeping-rooms.

Dealing with the natives while building these was not always easy.

Sometimes difficulties arose through not being able to make the natives

understand, so that we could not always place the blame on them. When

grass was wanted for the thatching a contract was entered into with one

of the headmen to furnish one hundred bundles for five shillings

($1.20). The grass was brought until there was about half the specified

amount, then the pay was demanded. This was of course refused. The man

brought a little more and then he stoutly affirmed that he had fulfilled

his part of the contract. After considerable delay and, being harassed

by the headman, we finally paid him. After all, he may have been honest

in the affair and a mistake may have been made in the beginning; for the

word for _one hundred_ and that for _much_ were similar except in the

prefix. He may have understood that he was to bring much grass, and he

certainly did that.

Again, when the first hut was to be plastered, arrangements were made

with certain women to plaster it for a stated amount. They brought a

number of others along to help them plaster; and when pay day came, the

total amount of pay demanded was about double the original agreement.

There was such a noisy, unpleasant demonstration that day, that we

learned our lesson, and we were very careful so to arrange matters that

the difficulty would not occur again.

[Illustration: Matopo Mission--March, 1899.]

Our living at the time was of the simplest. Nearly all kinds of eatables

could be procured in Bulawayo; but they were very expensive, and there

was no way of bringing them out except by native carriers, or by

trusting to the friendly assistance of the white traders at Fort Usher.

Sometimes it fell to the Elder's lot to walk the thirty miles to

Bulawayo in order to purchase supplies. There was no need, however, for

us to do, like many a missionary in the wilds of Africa has done,

deprive ourselves of wheat bread and ordinary groceries. These we always

had, but we were more economical in their use than we would have been at

home. We had no milk, except tinned milk, no butter, and very little

meat, and no gun to procure game. But we had chicken and could

occasionally procure meat from the natives. Of course at first there

were no vegetables to be had, except such as we could at times procure

from the natives--corn, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and peanuts, but these

were scarce.

Elder Engle, alive to the value of the soil and the need of wholesome

food, at once secured fruit trees and set them out, including a number

of orange trees. He also bought a small plow and with the two donkeys

broke land and planted vegetables. One native, who continually stood by

us during those early days, was Mapipa, our nearest neighbor. He was a

powerfully-built Matabele and reminded one of the giant of Gath; for he

had six fingers on each hand and six toes on each foot. He had been

quite active in the Rebellion and was wounded in one of the battles. He

could always be depended upon in work, and Brother Engle greatly

appreciated his assistance.

Perhaps some one who reads these lines may wonder whether building,

farming, and such manual labor is missionary work. Did not the Great

Missionary, according to all accounts--I say it in all reverence--take

an apprenticeship in the carpenter's shop where He "increased in wisdom

and stature and in favor with God and man"? Did not the Apostle Paul,

undoubtedly the greatest of His followers, unite tent-making with his

missionary work? Should then we, such feeble imitations, belittle manual

labor, even though it falls to our lot as missionaries? Any one going to

the mission field should not, if he is to be successful, decide in his

own mind that he is going to do certain things, he should be willing to

do whatever the Lord gives him to do, of spiritual, intellectual, or

physical labors.

There are so many sides to missionary work, and who can tell which will

result in the greatest good? To preach Christ and lift Him up that

others may see and accept Him is undoubtedly the central thought of the

Great Commission. The ways of exalting Him, however, are so many and so

various. Christ must be lived among the people before He can in truth be

preached to them. The heathen of Africa cannot read the Bible, but they

can and do continually read the lives of those sent among them. If these

do not correspond to the Word read and preached among them, they are

keen to discern and judge accordingly. If the Christ-life is lived

before their eyes, day by day, many will eventually yield their hearts

to Him, even though, they may for a time resist.

CHAPTER SIX

Educational and Evangelistic Work

The natives were eager to see inside the new huts. When they had an

opportunity to look at the whitewashed walls and the homemade furniture,

they stood spellbound, and the first word that broke from their lips was

"_Muehle_" (pretty).

They had another and more personal interest in seeing the huts

completed. They had been told that, as soon as the goods were moved out

of the tent, school would be opened. Both large and small were

exceedingly eager to learn, or at least they thought so. They had never

seen books, and writing was like magic to them. To put down some

characters on paper and from those to spell out their names when they

next visited the mission was little less than witchcraft. Both old and

young like to be known. They are pleased if their missionary pronounces

their name and seems to know them when they come a second time.

School opened October 11. The first boy to come bright and early was

Matshuba, together with two of Mapita's girls. This little boy, then

about thirteen years old, had been a very interested spectator of all

that occurred from the time the mission opened. Day after day he would

be on hand, and his bright eyes and active mind took knowledge of

everything that was said or done. His father, Mpisa, then dead, had

been one of the most trusted witch doctors of the King, and had been

held in great respect by all of the natives in that part of the country.

This boy was very eager for school, and the first morning he and

Mapita's girls begged us to allow only the Matabele to attend school,

and not the Amahole, or subject races. This furnished an excellent

opportunity of teaching them that God is no Respecter of persons.

The first morning of school twelve bright-looking boys and girls entered

the tent and sat down on the floor, curious to know what school was

like. It was a momentous time. It was the beginning of a work the result

of which human eye could not foresee. How the teacher, who had often

stood before a far larger and more inspiring-looking school in a

civilized land, trembled as she stood there before those twelve little

savages in the heart of Africa! She knew that those bright eyes were

reading her thoughts, and realized that she came so far short of the

"measure of the stature of the fullness of Christ." The special burden

of the prayer that morning was that, as these dear souls learned to read

the Word, the Light might enter their hearts and they yield themselves

to God.

The second day eight more were enrolled, and the third day fourteen, and

by the end of the month there were forty in all. Sister Heise and I were

kept busy during school hours as the pupils were taught to sew as well

as to read and write. Cleanliness is a rare virtue with them, so they

were told to wash before coming to school. As new ones entered the

school the admonition was repeated, with the statement that we wash

every morning. Mapita's little daughter, Sibongamanzi, with shining

black face, which showed that she had been heeding the command, looked

up brightly and said, "Yes, but you are white and we are black." She

evidently had thought that, if she washed every morning, she too would

become white, but she had concluded it to be a hopeless task. Mr.

Anderson said that some of their children thought that if they ate the

food of white people, they too would become white.

This, our first schoolroom, was very primitive. It consisted of a tent

16 x 16 feet. In front there was a box which served as a teachers' desk

and as a receptacle for slates, pencils, paper, books, and sewing. Other

boxes served for teachers' chairs. There were two easels made of poles;

one supported the blackboard and the other the charts. The blackboard

consisted of a few small boards nailed together and painted black, and

the charts were of cardboard, 18 x 24 inches in size. There were ten of

them printed on both sides with syllables, and Tebele words and

sentences. These had been printed by homemade stencils and pen, and had

occupied our leisure time while we were hut-building. The floor of the

tent was covered with straw, and the pupils sat on this without seats or

desks. They knew nothing of the comforts of the schoolroom in civilized

lands and thought they were well supplied.

Since we had no primer at the time, the Gospel of St. John was given to

them as a textbook when they had finished the charts. To enable them to

read and understand the Word of God was the aim of the school work and

the Bible the Textbook throughout. After they had learned to write the

letters of the alphabet, their copy usually was a verse from the

Scriptures. They were also taught to memorize certain portions in

connection with the daily worship, and hymn singing.

The pupils compare very favorably with white children in their ability

to learn, but few of them come regularly to school. To most of them

school is just a side issue, some place to go when there is nothing else

to be done. Some have an idea that they can learn to read in about a

month, and when they find that it requires months of weary, patient

effort at meaningless characters, they give up in despair. Others are

ridiculed by the older people for throwing away their time at such

useless work; "There is no money, no beer, no food in it and they are

dunces to go."

Again, some are grown, and being past the age when mental effort is

easy, they soon become discouraged. One big fellow stumbled along until

he had mastered the chart after a fashion. Then, to his delight, he was

given the Gospel of St. John to read. Day after day he struggled along

over the, to him, meaningless syllables and words. Still he persevered

until it gradually dawned upon him that the printed page meant

something. He looked up one day with a most delighted expression on his

face and exclaimed, "This book is talking to me!"

The native cannot be said to be very persevering, owing to the fact that

all his life, in his untaught state, he goes on the principle that the

world owes him a living. His needs are few and often they are supplied

by nature. When he comes up against a difficult problem of any sort,

his usual answer is, "It will not consent." For this reason arithmetic

is always difficult for him and his progress in it is very slow. One day

I was endeavoring to show a girl how to make the letter _b_. After a

vain effort to make it properly, she exclaimed, "My pencil will not

consent to slide that way."

The sewing hour probably was the most interesting time to all. They

expected to receive the garments after they had finished sewing them and

had worked for the cloth with which they were made. The dearest wish of

their hearts was to have a garment to put on. And that is not strange,

for in the cool morning air they come shivering, and at noon the hot sun

burns their bodies. We might have made the garments and donated them;

but that would not teach them to work and would have done them more harm

than good. A native always appreciates most that upon which he has

bestowed labor or money; so both boys and girls learned to sew. It was

rather amusing to see them, in the absence of other garments to which

they might pin their sewing, place it between their toes. It was also

interesting to watch the different expressions when at last the garments

were finished and they could clothe themselves.

Matshuba put on his suit; then, folding his hands, said in a quiet and

contented manner, "Now I am not cold any more." Amuzeze, when he had

finished his garments, put them on, and taking a good look at himself

stepped off as proudly as if he owned a large estate. Sibongamanzi kept

her dress for Sunday. At home she would carefully fold it, and putting

it in an earthen jar cover it up for safe keeping.

In the meantime services on Sunday had not been neglected. At the

opening of the work none of the missionaries could speak the language,

but they could read it after a fashion. So, from the very first Sunday

after the work opened, endeavors were made to instill into the minds of

the natives that one day out of seven was a day of rest and worship. To

them all days were alike--workdays, rest days, or carousal days, as they

chose to spend them. Sad to say that even the few that went to work for

the white man saw little or no difference between the days of the week.

It falls to the lot of the missionary to teach the significance of the

fourth commandment as well as the rest of the decalogue. On Sunday the

people were invited to assemble under the shade of a friendly tree, and

a portion of the Scriptures was read to them and hymns sung. They are

great lovers of music, so that in itself was an attraction. The first

congregation was very small. Sometimes there would be only Mapita and

his family, five or six in number. As the nature of the meetings began

to dawn on the native mind, others would assemble with us, but in the

first few months, or until the opening of school in October, not more

than twenty-five congregated at one time.

Acquiring the language is always a tedious, though important, part of

foreign missionary work. The missionary sees the natives about him, day

by day, and longs to tell them something of Jesus and His love, but is

unable to do so, especially if he be a pioneer in the work and without

an interpreter as we were. We had been endeavoring to study the

language from the Zulu books on hand, but on coming face to face with

the natives it was discovered that the set phrases we had acquired

seemed as unintelligible to them as their words were to us. There were

several reasons for this. One was that we had not learned the proper

pronunciation and accent, and another was that their dialect differed

somewhat from the Zulu, which we had been endeavoring to learn. Another,

and far weightier reason, and one which, to our sorrow, we did not

discover until some time afterwards, was that some natives did not speak

the correct language to us. Those who had been accustomed to speaking to

the Europeans had invented a jargon of their own, which they seemed to

think especially adapted to the mental capacity of white people. This

medium of communication is known as "kitchen Kafir."

It consists of a small vocabulary, chiefly of Zulu words, simplified and

divested of all inflections--and grammar, it might be said. This

dialect, which is especially distasteful to linguists, is invariably

used by many natives in addressing white people for the first time. It

is the common language of the kitchen and the shops, between master or

mistress and their native servants. It has also of later years spread

much among the natives themselves where various tribes meet and

converse. Its use has become so general over South Africa, and even in

parts of South Central Africa, that it has, not inaptly, been termed the

"Esperanto of South Africa." Undoubtedly it lacks much of the elegance

of the real Esperanto, but is in daily use by more people. Not only is

"kitchen Kafir" spoken between whites and blacks and between blacks

themselves, but sometimes, when a common language fails, something akin

to this is used between even the white people.

Not so many of the natives in the hills had come into contact with

Europeans before our coming among them, yet there was sufficient

"kitchen Kafir" among them to confuse the newcomers and make it

necessary in after years to unlearn many of the things they first

acquired.

Learning the language is trying, especially without a teacher, and many

blunders and misunderstands occur; but it is not the least useful of

missionary experiences. People on first coming into contact with raw

heathendom are seldom capable of doing much preaching to them in such a

manner that the native can understand and appreciate.

While one is learning the language, he is also learning to know the

native himself, his surroundings, and modes of thought. By the time one

is able to converse with the native, he also knows better what to say to

him. One thing, however, it is always safe to do from the time the

missionary enters the field of labor; he may always read the Word, if he

has it in the language. The unadorned Word is always safe and suits all

conditions of men.

Gradually we learned to speak the language, sentence by sentence. How

our hearts burned within us those days to be able to tell the story of

Christ and His love! Usually the dull, darkened look on the faces of the

few present would cause the speaker to feel that he had not been

understood, or that there had been no answering response. Then

occasionally a dusky face would light up, as if a ray of light had

penetrated a darkened corner, and the speaker would be encouraged to

renewed efforts to make the subject plain. Thus, Sunday after Sunday,

the effort would be renewed.

It was not only on that day, however, that some of the older ones heard

the Word read and an attempt at explanation given. Morning and evening

worship was held in the native language, and often a larger number, in

those early days, gathered about us on workdays than on Sunday. The door

was always open and everyone was invited to enter at time of prayer.

After school opened, and it became better known which day was Sunday,

and that the services were held in the tent, the attendance gradually

increased.

Our feelings, as written at the time, were somewhat as follows:

We realize more fully every day that much wisdom and grace is

needed in dealing with this people. If we did not have such

confidence in our Great Leader, we might at times be discouraged,

for the enemy of souls is strong here in Africa and human nature is

alike the world over. When the truth is driven home to their

hearts, they are quite ready to excuse themselves. Thus we find it

necessary to get down lower and lower at the feet of Jesus and let

Him fill us continually with all the fulness of His love and

Spirit, that there may be no lack in us.

In his own eyes the pagan African is always a good, innocent sort of

person. He has done no wrong, has committed no sin, hence has no need of

forgiveness. One of the first requisites seems to be instilling into his

mind a knowledge of God and His attributes. This must be "precept upon

precept," "line upon line," "here a little and there a little." Time

after time this thought of God must be reiterated until it is burned

into the consciousness of the hearers. We are told of one missionary

who, for the first two years, took as his text, Sabbath after Sabbath,

"God is." And it would seem to be a wise course to pursue. The

conception of a Supreme Being Who is holy, omnipotent, omniscient, and

omnipresent, and cannot look upon sin with any degree of allowance, to

Whom all must render an account, needs to be indelibly impressed on the

native mind. Until they realize that "all have sinned and come short of

the glory of God," it seems useless to preach Christ as a Savior to

them.

Missionaries soon realize that they cannot sit down and wait for the

people to come to them. They must go out into the streets and lanes of

their villages and "into the highways and hedges and compel them to come

in." Kraal-visiting forms a very important part of the Gospel work.

Sister Heise and myself went among them as much as possible. We went

chiefly on foot, and many miles were traveled in all kinds of weather,

so that the people might be instructed in the things of God. At first

these visits could be little more than a friendly call and the speaking

of a few broken sentences. These wild children of nature were quick to

respond to the interest that prompted the visits, and would always

welcome the visitors. As soon as we were within sight the children would

come to meet us and pilot us to their parents. When we left they would

again accompany us a little distance, perhaps to the next kraal. Who

shall say but that these early journeys, in which little of the Gospel

was given, was not as fruitful of results for God as later ones? Back of

those black exteriors are human hearts waiting to be touched by the

finger of love and human sympathy, ready to imbibe the milk of human

kindness. They know something of the natural love of parent to child,

and _vice versa_; but they need to realize that there is such a thing as

disinterested love in their welfare, and by this means be led to realize

in some little measure the _wonderful love of God_. In this, thank God,

we had no need to simulate love. A spark of the Divine love for them had

entered our hearts before we even set foot on Africa's shores.

It is difficult to understand the expression of a missionary who visited

Matopo some time after the work was started, and who in his own field of

labor seemed to have been used of the Lord. He said one day: "I cannot

say that I love these people. I do not love that child," pointing to a

little girl at some distance in front of him, "but I realize that Christ

loves them and desires them to be saved, hence my work among them." This

seemingly cold sense of duty may answer. If, however, the pagan African

once realizes that disinterested love prompts our treatment of him, he

is generally most pliable and teachable. Without something of the Divine

love work among them must be hard indeed, for there are so many trying

things to be met with day by day.

After a time it was discovered that the donkeys might be made use of in

kraal visiting. I well remember our first experience at this mode of

travel. We had no saddles, so we placed blankets on the backs of the

donkeys and fastened them with surcingles of our own manufacture. Sister

Heise was an expert rider, while I was quite the reverse. Our first trip

was to a kraal about five miles distant, the home of the chief,

Hluganisa. Two boys, Matshuba and Sihlaba, accompanied us as guides. All

went well on the trip over. We were very kindly received by the people

and afforded an opportunity to give them the Gospel. The village was up

among the rocks, and as donkeys are expert climbers they had no

difficulty in making the ascent, or descent, either, but on the return

journey I could not keep my place, and was sent over the donkey's head

on to the ground. My companion, when she saw that no harm was done,

rather considered the accident as a good joke, and I joined in the laugh

at my own expense. The boys failed to see any fun in it, and seemed

greatly to resent the laughter.

Some time after this we made another journey of about the same distance

in the opposite direction. The reason for this second visit was as

follows: Among our pupils was a nice, modest-looking girl about twelve

years of age. She belonged to Mapita's family, and seemed to be an

affectionate and well-behaved child. She was absent from school for a

few days, and on inquiring we learned that she had gone to the home of

her intended husband. Greatly shocked, we made further inquiry, and were

told that Mapita had sold her to a man who had already one wife, and

that he lived about five miles away. It was our first experience with

heathen marriage, and we determined to hunt her up and if possible

release her. We looked upon this child as a slave or prisoner.

Taking the donkeys and our two boys, we again started out one morning.

The path was not familiar, even to our guides. It wound around among the

rocks and we were in great danger of being lost. Immense boulders were

piled up in all sorts of fantastic shapes, and a white person could

easily be lost among the hills and perhaps never find his way out, but

the native will always find his way. Once we found ourselves on the top

of a nearly perpendicular rock, and dismounting reached the bottom only

with great difficulty. The boys inquired the way of a native in his

garden, but he regarded us with suspicion and remained silent. Since the

close of the rebellion, when the natives hid themselves among these

rocks, they have been very suspicious of white people, for fear some one

may desire to capture them. It was only after repeated assurances by the

boys that we were missionaries, and their friends, that he consented to

direct us.

South and South Central Africa A record of fifteen years' missionary labors among primitive peoples · 第 15 / 20 章