VISIT TO NEW ZEALAND.

Captain Cook left Tahiti after a stay of three months. During the

greater part of this period the sailors and natives had lived together

in the most cordial friendship, and in the perpetual interchange of

kindly acts. It must be borne in mind that, though the unchristianised

natives of the South-Sea Islands are all degraded, cruel, and savage,

all are not equally so. Those inhabiting the Feejee group are generally

reported to be the worst in all respects. Those who inhabited Tahiti,

on the other hand, were, at the time of Cook's visit, said to be

comparatively amiable.

At all events, the departure of the _Endeavour_ called forth a strong

display of tender feeling on the part of the natives of that island. In

writing of this Cook says--

"On the next morning, Thursday, the 13th July, the ship was very early

crowded with our friends, and surrounded by multitudes of canoes, which

were filled with natives of an inferior class. Between eleven and

twelve we weighed anchor, and as soon as the ship was under sail the

Indians on board took their leave, and wept with a decent and silent

sorrow, in which there was something very striking and tender. The

people in the canoes, on the contrary, seemed to vie with each other in

the loudness of their lamentations, which we considered rather as an

affectation than grief. Tupia (a chief who had made up his mind to sail

with us) sustained himself in this scene with a firmness and resolution

truly admirable. He wept, indeed, but the effort that he made to

conceal his tears concurred with them to do him honour. He sent his

last present, a shirt, to a friend on shore, and then went to the

mast-head, where he continued waving to the canoes as long as they were

in sight."

Thus ended the visit of the great navigator to Tahiti, an island which

afterwards became the scene of one of the most romantic incidents that

was ever recorded in the annals of maritime adventure, namely, the

mutiny of the men in H.M.S. _Bounty_, and the consequent colonisation of

Pitcairn Island. Tahiti is now civilised, and under the protective

government of the French. The produce of the island is bread-fruit,

cocoa-nuts, bananas of thirteen sorts, plantains, a fruit not unlike an

apple, which, when ripe, is very pleasant, sweet potatoes, yams,

sugar-cane, which the natives eat raw, besides many other kinds of

fruits, roots, and vegetables, all of which grew wild when Cook was

there, or with so little culture that the islanders are almost

altogether exempted from labour.

Setting sail from Tahiti, the _Endeavour_ visited several other isles,

and at length arrived at the celebrated island of New Zealand. This is

one of the largest in the South Seas, and is now the site of several

thriving British settlements. Flourishing cities have been built on its

rich soil; large portions of it have been brought under cultivation;

gold-mines have been discovered; churches and schools have been erected,

and many of the natives have become partially civilised.

Very different indeed was the state of things when Captain Cook first

drew near to its shores in the year 1769.

He cast anchor on the 8th of October in a bay near the mouth of a small

river about half a league from shore. The sides of the bay were white

cliffs of great height, and inland the hills rose one behind another,

towering upwards until they terminated in a chain of mountains in the

far distance. Some natives had been seen on the beach, so, when the

ship was secured, Cook took two of his boats, and, accompanied by Mr

Banks and Dr Solander, with a party of men, went on shore. They landed

on the east side of the river, but finding it too deep to cross, and

seeing some natives on the other side, they took one of the boats--the

yawl--and went over, leaving the other boat--the pinnace--behind them.

When the navigators drew near to the place where the natives were

assembled, the latter ran away. The sailors then landed, and, leaving

four boys in charge of the boat, walked up to some huts which were two

or three hundred yards from the beach. But they had not gone far from

the water-side when four men, armed with long lances, rushed out of the

woods, and ran to attack the boat. They would certainly have succeeded

in overpowering the four boys and making off with the boat, had they not

fortunately been seen by the people left in the pinnace, who called out

to warn the boys of their danger, telling them to push off and drop down

stream. The boys obeyed instantly. Being closely pursued by the

savages, one of them fired a musket over their heads.

At this they stopped in surprise and looked round them, but in a few

minutes renewed the pursuit, brandishing their lances in a threatening

manner, as if about to cast them into the boat, which they could easily

have done. The boys then fired a second shot over their heads, but of

this they took no notice, and one of them lifted his spear with the

intention of darting it; another musket was therefore fired, which shot

the savage dead. When he fell the other three stood motionless for some

time, as if petrified with astonishment. As soon as they recovered they

went back to the woods, dragging the dead body, but they soon dropped it

and fled when they saw Cook and his companions running to the rescue.

The dead body was examined, and found to be that of a man of middle

size, with brown complexion and a tattooed face. He was covered with a

kind of native cloth, and wore his hair tied up in a knot on the top of

his head. Cook immediately returned to the ship, from the deck of which

he could hear the voices of the natives on shore talking with great

earnestness and in a very loud tone.

Being anxious to enter into friendly intercourse with these people, Cook

renewed the attempt next morning. He ordered three boats to be manned

with seamen and marines, and proceeded towards the shore, accompanied by

Mr Banks and Dr Solander, also by Tupia, the Tahitan, to act as

interpreter. About fifty natives came to the beach and sat down to

await their landing. In order to prevent them taking fright, Cook

landed first and advanced, accompanied only by the two gentlemen above

named and Tupia. But they had not proceeded many paces before the

savages started up, and every man produced either a long pike or a small

weapon of green talc extremely well polished, about a foot long, and

thick enough to weigh four or five pounds. Tupia endeavoured to appease

them, but this could not be managed until a musket was fired wide of

them. The ball struck the water, and on observing its effect they

ceased their menaces.

Meanwhile the marines were landed and marched to a commanding position,

where they were drawn up, while Captain Cook again advanced. When they

came near enough, Tupia explained that they wanted provisions and water,

for which they would give iron in exchange. He then asked them to lay

down their arms, but they would not consent to do so. The river still

lay between the two parties, and Cook invited the natives to come over

and trade. They were unwilling at first, but in a short time one,

bolder than the rest, stripped himself and swam over without his arms.

He was immediately followed by two or three more, and soon after by most

of the others. These last, however, brought their arms with them.

Presents of iron and beads were now made to the savages, but they seemed

to care little for these things, and in a few minutes they attempted to

snatch the arms out of the sailors' hands. In this they failed, and

Cook ordered Tupia to tell them that if they tried to do that again, he

would be compelled to kill them. In a few minutes Mr Green, one of the

gentlemen, happened to turn about; immediately one of them snatched away

his sword and ran to a little distance, waving it round his head with a

shout of triumph. Seeing this, the rest became extremely insolent, and

more savages came to join them from the other side of the river. It

therefore became necessary to check them, and Mr Banks fired with

small-shot at the man who had taken the sword. The shot had only the

effect of stopping his shouts and causing him to retire a little farther

off, still flourishing the sword, however. Seeing this, Mr Monkhouse

fired with ball, and the man dropt instantly. Upon this the main body

of the natives, who had retired to a rock in the middle of the river,

began to return. Two that were near the man who had been killed ran to

the body, and one seized his weapon of green talc, while the other tried

to secure the sword, but Mr Monkhouse ran up in time to prevent this.

Three muskets loaded with small-shot were then fired at the party, which

wounded several, and caused them to retire to the opposite side of the

river, after which Cook returned to the ship.

This was a matter of great disappointment to the voyagers, because they

were much in want of fresh water. Cook now resolved to seize some of

the natives if possible, and prove to them, by kind treatment, that they

had nothing to fear. Soon after he had an opportunity of trying this

plan. Two canoes were seen coming in from sea; one under sail, the

other worked by paddles. Taking three boats full of men he gave chase

to them; but the people in the nearest canoe perceived them, and turning

aside made with all possible haste for a point of land and escaped. The

other canoe was intercepted, and Tupia called to them to come alongside

and they would receive no harm; but they took down the sail, took to

their paddles, and made off so quickly that the boats could not overtake

them. Cook then ordered a musket-ball to be fired over them. On

hearing the shots they stopped paddling and began to strip, intending,

no doubt, to leap into the sea. But they quickly changed their minds

and resolved not to fly but to fight. When the boats came up they began

the attack with their paddles and with stones so vigorously, that the

voyagers were obliged to fire at them in self-defence. Unhappily four

were killed, and the three who remained leaped into the sea.

These were soon captured, and were found to be mere boys--the eldest

about nineteen, and the youngest about eleven. Cook deeply regretted

this unfortunate affair, and blamed himself for it, but remarked, in

justification of himself, that, "when the command has once been given to

fire, no man can restrain its excess or prescribe its effect."

As soon as the poor wretches were taken out of the water into the boat

they squatted down, expecting, no doubt, to be instantly put to death.

But when they found that instead of being killed they were treated with

kindness, they became exceedingly joyful. On reaching the ship they

were offered some bread, which they devoured with a voracious appetite.

They asked and answered a great many questions, and when the people sat

down to dinner expressed a desire to touch and taste everything they

saw. The food that pleased them most was salt pork. At night they made

a hearty supper, and after they had each drunk above a quart of water,

they lay down to sleep on a locker well pleased with their treatment.

During the night, however, their true condition as prisoners seemed to

be impressed on them. Possibly they thought of their slain friends, for

they began to moan dismally, and it was all Tupia could do to comfort

them. Next morning they devoured an enormous breakfast, after which

they were dressed, and adorned with bracelet, anklets, necklaces,

etcetera, and sent on shore in the hope that they might carry a good

report of the strangers to their friends. Nothing came of this,

however, at the time. The natives still remained unfriendly, and Cook

finally weighed anchor and set sail in search of a part of the coast

where the people, it was hoped, would be more hospitable.

Soon after this a number of canoes came off to the ship, and the

natives, to the number of fifty, came on board without fear, saying that

they had heard such an account of the kindness of the sailors from the

three boys, that they had come to trade with them. And they did trade

with them, to such an extent that they parted with everything they had,

even stripping off their clothes, and offering them in exchange for

trinkets of little value!

About an hour before sunset, the canoes put off from the ship to return

to shore, and then it was discovered that three natives had been left

behind. Tupia hailed the canoes and told them of this, but they would

not return; and what seemed more surprising, the three savages did not

seem to care but remained on board eating and drinking, and entertaining

the ship's company with dancing and singing of a very remarkable kind,

after which they had their suppers and went quietly to bed. But they

were dreadfully horrified on awaking next morning to find that the ship

was sailing swiftly away with them; and they remained in a state of

consternation until a canoe happened to put off from shore, and after

much persuasion came alongside and took them away. The men in the canoe

were very timid about coming on deck, and they could not be got to do so

until the three savages assured them that the white people "did not eat

men!"

Cook then continued his voyage of discovery round New Zealand, making

careful notes of the coast, and naming the various headlands as he went.

As the island is fully as large as Great Britain, it took him some time

to accomplish the survey. He had many adventures, and saw many strange

things by the way, besides running considerable danger from the natives,

who showed themselves extremely hostile.

On one occasion, while they were entangled among some shoals, the hurry

on board in working the ship led the savages to suppose the voyagers

were alarmed, so taking advantage of this, four large canoes full of

armed men put off and came towards them with the intention, apparently,

of making an attack. A musket was fired over them, but as it did no

harm they continued to come on. A four-pounder, loaded with grape, was

then fired a little to one side of them. This caused them all to start

up with a shout of surprise, after which they returned quietly to the

shore.

On all occasions Captain Cook exerted himself to the utmost to prevent

bloodshed; but the natives were everywhere so warlike and treacherous,

that this could not always be avoided.

One day several canoes full of armed men came alongside, and were

induced to trade--exchanging native cloth and arms for the usual

trinkets. Tupia, the interpreter, had a little son with him named

Tayeto. This little fellow was employed to stand outside the bulwarks

of the ship to hand down the things from the ship to the savages in the

canoes. One of these rascals, watching his opportunity, suddenly seized

the lad and dragged him down into the canoe. Two of them held him down

in the fore part of it, and the others with great activity paddled off--

the rest of the canoes following as fast as they could.

Upon this the marines were ordered to fire. The shot was directed to

that part of the canoe which was farthest from the boy. One man

dropped, upon which the others quitted their hold of the boy, who sprang

nimbly into the water and swam towards the ship. A large canoe turned

to recapture him, but some muskets and a great gun being fired at it,

the rowers desisted from farther pursuit. The ship was immediately

brought to, a boat was lowered, and poor Tayeto was picked up, very much

terrified, but unhurt, and none the worse for his adventure.

After this the discoverers had the most convincing proof that the

inhabitants of New Zealand were cannibals. One day Mr Banks, Dr

Solander, Tupia, and others, went ashore and visited a party of natives

who appeared to have just concluded a repast. The body of a dog was

found buried in their oven, and many provision-baskets stood around. In

one of these they observed two bones, pretty cleanly picked, which did

not seem to be the bones of a dog. On nearer inspection they were found

to be those of a human being. That the flesh belonging to them had been

eaten was evident, for that which remained had manifestly been dressed

by fire, and in the gristles at the ends were the marks of the teeth

which had gnawed them. To put an end to doubt, Tupia asked what bones

they were, and the natives answered without the least hesitation that

they were the bones of a man, and they had eaten the flesh off them.

Upon one of the visitors pretending not to believe this, and saying that

they were the bones of a dog, a native seized his own forearm with his

teeth and made a show of eating it with great relish. He also took one

of the bones which Mr Banks held in his hand and bit and gnawed it,

drawing it through his lips, and showing by signs that it afforded a

delicious repast!

As if to relieve, somewhat, the feelings of disgust with which they were

oppressed by such sights, the voyagers were regaled with the most

delicious music on the following morning. About two o'clock they were

awakened by the sweet singing of birds, the number of which was

incredible, and their energy so great that they appeared to strain their

throats in emulation of each other. This wild melody was infinitely

superior to anything they had ever heard of the same kind; it seemed to

be like small bells most exquisitely tuned;--perhaps the distance of the

ship from shore, and the water between, may have lent additional charms

to the sound.

Ere long the birds ceased to sing, and the disagreeable subject of the

previous day was recalled by the appearance of a small canoe, in which

was an old man, who, on coming on deck, at once revived the conversation

about eating human flesh.

"But," said Tupia, after some minutes' talk, "I did not see any heads of

your enemies; what do you do with them? do you not eat them too?"

"No," replied the old man, "we only eat the brains, and the next time I

come I will bring off some of them to convince you that what I have told

you is true."

That same day some of the sailors found on shore near an oven three

human hip-bones, which they brought on board, and Mr Monkhouse, the

surgeon, discovered and took on board the hair of a man's head.

Here also they saw practised a remarkably simple and ingenious method of

catching fish, which we think might be tried with advantage on our own

coasts. Happening to observe a man in his canoe fishing, they rowed

alongside and asked him to draw up his line, which he readily did. At

the end of it they found a net of a circular form, extended by two hoops

about seven or eight feet in diameter. The top was open, and sea-ears

were fastened to the bottom as bait. This he let down so as to lie upon

the ground until he thought fish enough had assembled over it. Then he

drew it up by an extremely gentle and even motion, so that the fish rose

with it, scarcely sensible (it is supposed) that they were being lifted,

until near the surface of the water, when they were brought out in the

net by a sudden pull!

The ingenuity of the New Zealanders appeared in nothing more than in

their canoes, of which the following description is in Cook's own words:

"They are long and narrow, and in shape very much resemble a New England

whale-boat; the larger sort seem to be built chiefly for war, and will

carry from forty to eighty or a hundred armed men. We measured one

which lay ashore at Tolago. She was sixty-eight feet and a half long,

five feet broad, and three feet and a half deep. The bottom was sharp,

with straight sides like a wedge, and consisted of three lengths

hollowed out to about two inches, or an inch and a half thick, and well

fastened together with strong plaiting. Each side consisted of one

entire plank sixty-three feet long, ten or twelve inches broad, and

about an inch and a quarter thick, and these were fitted and lashed to

the bottom part with great dexterity and strength. A considerable

number of thwarts were laid from gunwale to gunwale, to which they were

securely lashed on each side, as a strengthening to the boat. The

ornament at the head projected five or six feet beyond the body, and was

about four feet and a half high. The ornament at the stern was fixed

upon that end as the stern-post of a ship is fixed upon its keel, and

was about fourteen feet high, two feet broad, and an inch and a half

thick. They both consisted of boards of carved work, of which the

design was much better than the execution."

The smaller canoes, which were of one piece hollowed out by fire,

usually had "outriggers,"--boards projecting from, and parallel to, the

canoes--to prevent their overturning, and occasionally two canoes were

joined together for the same purpose, as, if unsupported, they were

extremely liable to upset.

The tools with which these canoes and their other implements and

utensils were made consisted of axes and adzes made of a hard black

stone, or of a green talc, which latter stone is not only hard but

tough. They had chisels made of small fragments of jasper, and of human

bones. These also served the purpose of augers for boring holes.

Fish-hooks were of bone or shell; these, however, were not well made,

but in the fabrication of most of their implements, canoes, war-clubs,

baskets, etcetera, they displayed a considerable degree of taste,

neatness of hand, and ingenuity.

Our space forbids us following Captain Cook very closely in his many

voyages throughout the great archipelago of the South Seas. In this

volume we have touched but lightly here and there on the immense variety

of subjects which came under his observation. Those who wish for fuller

information will find it in the work entitled _The Voyages of Captain

Cook round the World_, which contains his own most interesting journals.

Passing over the years which intervene between the period of which we

have been writing and the last voyage he ever made to the islands of the

South Seas, we leap at once, in the next chapter, to the sad closing

scenes of the great navigator's career.

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