CHAPTER XVII. HOW TO BUILD A TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY COIL.

IF the discharge from a Leyden jar or a condenser is passed through a

coil of wire acting as a primary and the primary is provided with a

secondary coil of a larger number of turns, a peculiar current known as

high frequency electricity is generated in the secondary. Such a device

is known as a Tesla Coil or Transformer.

[Illustration: FIG. 170.—Tesla Coil Circuits.]

When a Leyden jar or a condenser discharges through a coil of wire, the

spark which takes place does not consist simply of a single spark

passing in one direction only, but is really made of a number of

separate sparks passing alternately in opposite directions at the

tremendous rate of from one hundred thousand to one million times per

second.

A Tesla high frequency coil opens a field of wonderful possibilities to

the amateur experimenter and brings innumerable weird and fascinating

experiments within his reach.

The Tesla coil described in the following pages will give sparks of high

frequency electricity two or three inches long from the secondary, when

used in connection with a two inch spark induction coil. If used in

connection with a small high potential wireless transformer, the high

frequency discharge can be increased to six or eight inches.

A Tesla coil, suitable for use with a smaller spark coil, say one

capable of giving sparks from one-half to one inch in length can be made

by following the same plans but cutting all of the dimensions in half.

Make the secondary six inches long and one and one-half inches in

diameter instead of twelve inches long and three inches in diameter,

etc.

[Illustration: FIG. 171.—Secondary Tube.]

*The Secondary* winding consists of a single layer of No. 28 B. & S.

Gauge double cotton covered wire wound over a cardboard tube, twelve

inches long and and three inches in diameter. The tube must be

thoroughly dried before using it, by baking in an oven. A coat of

shellac, both inside and out, will avoid the possibility of having to

rewind the tube because of the wire becoming loose, due to drying out of

the tube later. The wire should be wound on in a smooth, even layer to

within about one-quarter of an inch from the ends and given a coat of

hot paraffine when finished. The ends of the tube are fitted with

circular wooden heads having a half inch flange.

*The Base* is a rectangular piece of wood, fifteen inches long and six

inches wide.

The secondary is supported in position by two hard rubber uprights, four

inches high, seven-eighths of an inch wide and one-half an inch thick. A

round-headed brass wood screw is passed through the top part of each of

the supports into the centre of each one of the wooden secondary heads.

High frequency currents are very hard to insulate and wood does not

possess sufficient insulating value to fit it for use as supports. Hard

rubber or glass are the most satisfactory materials for the supports.

[Illustration: FIG. 172.—Details of the Secondary Heads.]

The secondary terminals are connected to two brass rods, five inches

long and having a small brass ball at the upper end, mounted on the top

of each of the hard rubber supports.

The lower ends of the hard rubber supports are fastened to the base by

means of screws passing upwards through the base into a threaded hole in

the bottom of each support.

[Illustration: FIG. 173.—Details of the Primary Head.]

The secondary passes through the centre of the primary. The primary

consists of eight turns of heavy copper wire wound around a wooden drum

or frame. The wire should be No. 8 or No. 10 B. & S. Gauge. Flat copper

or brass ribbon one-quarter of an inch wide can be used in place of the

wire. The stranded copper wire, consisting of seven No. 22 B. & S. Gauge

wires twisted together and commonly employed for wireless aerials can be

used to good advantage in winding the primary, the idea of using a large

wire, stranded wire, or ribbon being to obtain a conductor having as

much surface as possible. High frequency currents travel only on the

surface of wires and conductors. A hollow tube is just as good a

conductor for high frequency currents as a solid rod of the same

diameter.

[Illustration: FIG. 174.—Primary Cross Bar.]

[Illustration: FIG. 175.—Front View of the completed Tesla Coil.]

[Illustration: FIG. 176—Side View of the completed Tesla Coil.]

The heads of the primary drum are wooden rings, seven inches in diameter

outside, four and one-half inches inside and one-half an inch thick. Six

cross bars, two and one-half inches long, three-quarters of an inch

thick and one-half an inch wide are required to support the wire. They

are spaced equidistantly around the rings and held in position by means

of brass screws passing through the rings. Do not use iron screws,

because iron is magnetic and should be entirely avoided in the

construction of a Tesla coil. Small notches should be cut in the outside

edge of the cross bars to accommodate the wires. The wires should pass

around the drum in the form of a spiral with one-quarter to

five-sixteenths of an inch space between the turns. The completed drum

will somewhat resemble a squirrel cage. The ends of the primary winding

should terminate in two large binding posts mounted on the primary

heads. The heads are fastened to the centre of the base by a couple of

large wood screws passing upwards though the bottom.

[Illustration: FIG. 177.—Diagram of connections for operating the Coil.]

The illustration in Figure 177 shows how to connect the Tesla coil. The

primary should be in series with a condenser and a spark gap. The

condenser should consist of two or three Leyden jars or several glass

plates coated with tinfoil. It is impossible to determine just how much

capacity the condenser should have in advance, because the length of the

conducting wires, adjustment of the spark gap, etc., will have

considerable effect. The condenser is connected directly across the

terminals of the spark coil. The spark gap may consist of two one-eighth

inch brass rods supported by two double binding posts mounted on a small

wooden block.

The induction coil should be as large as possible. When the coil is set

in operation it will charge the condenser and a white, snappy spark

should pass across the gap. If the fingers are brought near to one of

the secondary terminals of the Tesla coil, a small, reddish purple spark

will jump out to meet them. It will be necessary to adjust the apparatus

very carefully before a spark of any considerable length can be

obtained. Changing the length of the spark gap and the size of the

condenser will undoubtedly produce results. It may also be possible to

lengthen the high frequency spark by disconnecting one of the wires from

the primary binding posts on the Tesla coil and connecting the wire

directly to some one of the primary turns. A very small change in some

one of the connections may produce considerable result. The purpose of

the adjustments is to tune the circuit in the same manner that a

wireless outfit is tuned by altering the capacity of the condenser or

varying the number of turns in the helix.

[Illustration: FIG. 178.—Plate Glass Condenser.]

There are many interesting experiments which may be performed with the

aid of a Tesla coil which space does not permit of describing here. The

weird and strange beauty of the Tesla discharge is most evident when it

takes place in the dark.

High frequency currents do not produce a shock. If you hold a piece of

metal in your hand and bring it near one of the secondary terminals, you

can take the shock of a high-frequency coil, throwing a spark several

inches long without feeling any sensation except that of a slight

warmth.

Home-made Electrical Apparatus · 第 17 / 19 章