CHAPTER III.

Rationale of Heraldic Charges, etc.

[Illustration: (Arms of the See of Chichester)]

"The Formes of the pure celestiall bodies mixt with grosse

terrestrials; earthly animals with watery; sauage beasts with tame;

whole-footed beasts with diuided; reptiles with things gressible;

fowles of prey with home-bred; these again with riuer fowles; aery

insecta with earthly; also things naturall with artificiall; arts

liberall with mechanicall; military with rusticall; and rusticall with

ciuil. Which confused mixture hath not a little discouraged many

persons--otherwise well affected to the study of Armory--and impaired

the estimation of the profession."

_Guillim._

Dictionaries of the technical terms employed in heraldry are so common,

and the elements of the science so well explained in various popular

treatises,[83] that it would be impertinent in an essay like the present

to go into all the details usually comprised in those useful books of

reference. Still it may interest the general reader, and will, I trust,

give no offence to adepts in the science, if I offer a few observations on

this subject, with illustrations from our old writers, adding some

etymological conjectures of my own.

The origin of the expression 'a coat of arms' we have already seen, as

also the cause why heraldric ensigns are borne upon a shield. Shields have

been made of every imaginable shape according to the taste of the age or

the fancy of the bearer, with these two restrictions, that the shields of

knights-bannerets must be square, and those of ladies in the form of a

lozenge. The most usual, because the most convenient, shape is that which

is technically called the _heater_-shield--from its resemblance to the

heater of an iron--with some slight variations. Our friend Sylvanus

Morgan, whose ingenuity all must admire, in defiance of the oft-quoted

proverb:

"=When Adam digged and Eve span,

Who was then the Gentleman?="

deduces this shape for men, and that of the lozenge for women, from the

_spade_ of Adam, and the _spindle_ of Eve!

[Illustration]

The ground or field of every coat of arms must be either of metal, colour,

or fur. The METALS of heraldry are, Or==gold, and argent==silver, and as

the shield of war was antiently of metal, either embossed or enamelled,

the retention of the two precious metals as the field of an escocheon is

easily accounted for. The COLOURS are gules, azure, vert, purpure, sable,

tenne, and sanguine. While some of these terms are French; others, though

coming to us through that medium, are originally from other languages.

GULES, according to Ducange, is _goulis_, _guelle_, _gula_ sive _guella_,

the red colour of the mouth or throat of an animal. Mackenzie derives it

from the Hebrew _gulude_, a piece of red cloth, or from the Arabic _gule_,

a red rose. _Ghul_ in the Persian signifies rose-coloured, and _Ghulistan_

is 'the country of roses.' It is probably one of those importations from

the East which the Crusades introduced, both into the elements of armory

and the nomenclature of the science. It was sometimes called _vermeil_[84]

(vermilion) and _rouget_. An antient knight is represented as bearing a

plain red banner without any charge:

"Mais Eurmenions de la Brette

La baniere eut _toute rougecte_."[85]

The barbarous term _blodius_ was likewise occasionally used to express

this colour.

AZURE==light-blue, is a French corruption of the Arabic word _lazur_ or

_lazuli_. The lapis lazuli is a copper ore, very compact and hard, which

is found in detached lumps, of an elegant blue colour, and to it the

artist is indebted for his beautiful ultra-marine. This colour, still one

of the dearest of pigments, was antiently in great request, and called

'beyond-sea azure.'[86] The lapis lazuli is found in Persia, Bucharia, and

China.

VERT (French) is light green. This word was applied at an early period

"to every thing," says Cowell, "that grows and bears a _green_ leaf within

the forest that may cover and hide a deer." Vert and venison, in the

vocabulary of woodcraft, were as inseparable as shadow and substance. _To

vert_ signified to enter the forest, as in an old song of the thirteenth

century:

"Sumer is i-cumen in,

Lhude sing cuccu;

Groweth sed and bloweth med,

And springeth the wde nu.

=Sing Cuccu, Cuccu!=

Awe bleteth after lomb,

Lhouth after calve cu,

Bulluc sterteth,

Bucke VERTETH,

=Murie sing Cuccu=," etc.

This colour was antiently called _synople_, and in the Boke of St. Albans

_synobylt_, a word which Colombiere derives from the Latin _sinopis_, a

dyeing mineral,[87] or from Synople, a town in the Levant, whence a green

dye was procured.

Of SABLE the derivation is very uncertain. It seems unlikely to have been

taken from the colour of the diminutive animal now known by this name,

first, because it would then rank under the category of _furs_; and,

secondly, because that animal is far from black. Indeed, the best sable is

of a light brown or sand colour. Dallaway quotes a line, however, which

might be adduced in support of this derivation:

"Sables, ermines, vair et gris."

Guillim derives it from _sabulum_, gross sand or gravel, but this seems

very improbable, although I have nothing better to substitute. It is

curious that 'sable' and 'azure' should have been selected from the

'jargon' of heraldry for poetical use, to the exclusion of other similar

terms:

"By this the drooping daylight 'gan to fade,

And yield his room to sad succeeding night,

Who with her _sable_ mantle 'gan to shade

The face of earth, and ways of living wight."

_Faerie Queen._

"Thus replies

Minerva, graceful, with her _azure_ eyes."

_Pope._

PURPURE (purple) is not common in English armory: still less so are the

_stainant_ or disgraceful colours, TENNY (orange) and MURREY, which Dr.

Johnson defines as "darkly red," deriving it through the French _moree_,

and the Italian _morello_. The fine cherry designated by this last word

is, when ripe, of the exact colour intended by murrey. Bacon says, "Leaves

of some trees turn a little _murrey_, or reddish;" and "a waistcoat of

_murrey_-coloured satin" occurs in the writings of Arbuthnot.

By these terms were the arms of gentlemen described; but for the arms of

nobility they were not sufficiently lofty. These were blazoned by the

precious stones, as _topaz_ for yellow, _ruby_ for red, &c. For the arms

of princes it was necessary to go a step higher, namely, to the heavenly

bodies, _Sol_, _Luna_, _Mars_, &c. Sir John Ferne enumerates several other

sets of terms, in all thirteen, which he classifies thus: 1, planets; 2,

precious stones; 3, vertues; 4, celestiall signes; 5, months; 6, days of

the week; 7, ages of man; 8, flowers; 9, elements; 10, sesons of the yeer;

11, complexions; 12, numbers; 13, mettailes. What would those who are

disgusted with the 'jargon' of our science say to such blazon as the

following?--

He beareth _Sunday_, a lion rampant _Tuesday_.

He beareth _Faith_, a wolf salient _Loyalty_.

He beareth _Marigold_, a bear passant, _Blue Lily_, muzzled _White Rose_.

He beareth, _Infancy_, three grasshoppers _Virility_.

He beareth, _Melancholy_, three asses' heads, _Flegmatique_!

I must confess that, in the course of my heraldric reading, I have never

met with blazon of this singular description, but Ferne assures his reader

that it may be his fortune "to light upon such phantasticall termes," and

he gives an historical and philosophical account of their origin. So

recently as the last century the planets and gems were used in royal and

noble armory, but of late good taste has limited blazon to the

first-mentioned and most simple set of terms in all cases.

[Illustration]

The _furs_ are ermine, ermines, erminois, erminites, pean, vair, and

potent counter-potent. They are all said to be indicative of dignity. In

armorial painting their effect is very rich. ERMINE, which may be taken as

the type of the five first mentioned, is represented by three spots placed

triangularly, and three hairs in black upon a white ground. It is intended

to represent the black tail of a species of weasel fixed upon the white

skin of the animal. Guillim[88] gives a coat, containing six _whole

ermines_, as represented in the margin. Sir G. Mackenzie informs us that

"the first user of this fur in arms was Brutus, the son of Silvius, who

having by accident killed his father, left that unhappie ground, and

travelling in Bretaigne in France, fell asleep, and when he awoke he found

this little beast upon his shield, and from that time wore a shield

ermine!" This fur is said to have been introduced into England by Alan,

Earl of Richmond, so created by William the Conqueror. The ermine

(_mustela erminea_) is found in all the northern regions of the old

continent, and as far southward as Persia and China. It was originally

brought into western Europe from Armenia, then called _Ermonie_, whence

its name. Chaucer employs _ermin_ for the adjective Armenian. VAIRE is

composed of miniature shields of blue and white alternately placed.

According to Mackenzie it represents the skin of a small quadruped called

_varus_, the back of which is of a bluish grey, and the belly white; and

Guillim adds that when the head and feet of the animal are cut off from

the skin, the latter resembles the figure of vaire used in heraldry. The

costly fur so much spoken of by our old poets under the name of _miniver_

is derived by Dallaway from the French _menu vair_, on account of its

smallness and delicacy. The old French _vairon_ signifies anything of two

colours, and may possibly be the etymon of _vaire_.

[Illustration: (Temp Edw. I.) Arms of Sackville.]

POTENT-COUNTER-POTENT, literally "crutch-opposite-crutch," resembles the

tops of crutches counter-placed. What the origin of this figure may have

been does not appear, although the word potent, in the sense of crutch,

was common in the days of Chaucer.

"When luste of youth wasted be and spent,

Then in his hand he takyth a _potent_."

And again,

"So eld she was that she ne went

A foote, but it were by potent."

_Romaunt of the Rose._

[Illustration: ("Gules, a bend argent")]

Having thus taken a glance at the field, or ground of the heraldric

shield, let us next briefly notice what are called the honourable

ordinaries, one or other of which occurs in the great majority of arms,

viz., the CHIEF, BEND, BEND-SINISTER, FESSE, PALE, CROSS, SALTIRE,

CHEVERON, and PILE. The =chief= is a fifth part of the shield nearest the

top; _unde nomen_. In the primitive bearings, which were literally coats,

or rather mantles of arms, the chief might be formed by turning the upper

part of the garment back in form of a collar, thus exposing the lining,

which doubtless was often of a different colour from the mantle itself. A

knight who might chance at a tournament to wear a scarlet mantle lined

with white, would in this manner acquire as arms, 'Gules, a chief argent.'

The =bend= is a stripe passing diagonally across the shield from the

dexter corner; (and the =bend-sinister=, the contrary way,) and is,

etymologically, the same word with the French _bande_ and Saxon band.[89]

This ordinary evidently represents a band or scarf worn over one shoulder,

and passing under the opposite arm, and is well exemplified in the white

belt worn by a soldier over his red coat. Of a similar origin is the

=fesse=, a horizontal stripe across the middle of the shield, which

represents a sash or military girdle. The term is evidently derived from

the Latin _fascia_, through the French _fasce_. The =pale= is like the

fesse, except that its direction is perpendicular. From its name it has

been supposed to represent the _pales_, or palisades of a camp, and in

support of this origin it has been remarked that, in antient warfare,

every soldier was obliged to carry a pale, and to fix it as the lines were

drawn for the security of the camp. This hypothesis seems to be one of

those _after-thoughts_ with which heraldric theories abound. There is no

doubt that most armorial _forms_ existed long before the invention of

blazon, and that when it was found necessary to give every figure its

distinctive appellation, the real origin of many bearings had been lost

sight of, and the names assigned them were those of objects they were

_conjectured_ to represent.

It is far more probable that this ordinary originated in the insertion of

a perpendicular stripe of a different colour from the mantle itself, an

idea which is supported by the fact that the pale occupies in breadth a

third of the escocheon. Two breadths of blue cloth divided by one of

yellow, would produce a blazonable coat, '_Azure, a pale or_.' When a

shield is divided into several horizontal stripes of alternate colours it

is called _barry_; when the stripes run perpendicularly it is said to be

_paly_; and when they take a diagonal direction it is styled _bendy_. The

love of a striking contrast of colours in costume is characteristic of a

semi-barbarous state of society, and the shawls and robes of the orientals

of the present day afford a good illustration of the origin of these

striped bearings.[90] Such vestments were not peculiar to the military,

with whom we must always associate the heraldry of the earliest times;

for, so lately as the time of Chaucer, they were the favourite fashion of

civilians. This author, in his 'Parson's Tale,' makes that worthy

ecclesiastic complain of the "sinful costly array of clothing in the

embrouding, the disguising, indenting or _barring_, ounding, _paling_,

winding or _bending_, and semblable waste of cloth in vanity."[91]

Arms divided into two compartments by a horizontal line are said to be

_parted per fesse_; when the line is perpendicular, _parted per pale_; and

so of the others. Ridiculous as it may seem, our ancestors, from the reign

of Edward II to that of Richard II, affected this kind of dress. In a

contemporary illumination, John of Gaunt is represented in a long robe

divided exactly in half, one side being blue, the other white, the colours

of the House of Lancaster. Chaucer's Parson, just now quoted, inveighs

against the "wrappings of their hose which are departed of two colours,

white and red, white and blue, or black and red," making the wearers seem

as though "the fire of St. Anthony or other such mischance had consumed

one half of their bodies." "These party-coloured hose," humorously remarks

Mr. Planche, "render uncertain the fellowship of the legs, and the common

term _a pair_ perfectly inadmissible." But to return to the honourable

ordinaries. The =cross=. It would not be difficult to fill a volume with

disquisitions upon this bearing, forming, as it does, a prominent feature

in the heraldry of all Christendom; but I must content myself with a

general view, without entering much into detail. The cross, as the symbol

of Christianity, naturally engaged the reverent and affectionate regard of

the early Christians, a feeling which lapsed first into superstition, and

eventually into idolatry. In those chivalrous but ill-directed efforts of

the princes and armies of Christian Europe to gain possession of the Holy

Land, the cross was adopted as the sign or mark of the common cause; it

floated upon the standard, was embroidered upon the robes, and depicted on

the shields of the enthusiastic throng whose campaigns hence took the

designation of _Croisades_, or _Crusades_. On subsequent occasions the

cross was employed in this general manner, especially when the interests

of the church were concerned, as, for instance, at the battle of Lewes in

1264, when the soldiers of the baronial army marked themselves with a

white cross for the purpose of distinguishing each other from the king's

forces.[92] The plain cross, or cross of St. George, is the most antient

form of this bearing; it differed, however, from the form now in use in

having the horizontal bar placed higher than the centre of the upright.

The alteration was doubtless a matter of convenience to allow the common

charges of the field, when any occurred, a more equal space. But the cross

has been so modified by the varying tastes of different ages, that Dame

Juliana Berners, at a time when armory was comparatively simple, declares

that "crossis innumerabull are borne dayli." The principal and most usual

varieties of this ordinary are described in the 'Boke of St. Albans.' One

of the most interesting forms is the _cross fitchee_, or 'fixibyll,'

because being sharpened at the lower end it could be fixed into the

ground, like the little crosses in Catholic cemeteries. It probably

originated in the cross antiently carried by pilgrims, which answered the

purpose of a walking-staff, and served, when occasion required, for the

use of devotion. Next to this may be reckoned the _cross patee_, the

_cross-crosslet_, the _cross patonce_, and the _cross moline_, called in

the Boke a "mylneris cros," "for it is made to the similitude of a certain

instrument of yrne in mylnys, the which berith the mylneston."[93] The

plain cross _corded_, or entwined with ropes, was borne, according to the

same authority, in the "armys of a nobull man, the which was some tyme a

crafty man (handicraftsman), a _roper_ as he himself said." These crosses

are fully described in the larger treatises on heraldry, together with

numerous others. Berry's Encyclopaedia Heraldica enumerates no less than

THREE HUNDRED AND EIGHTY-FIVE varieties.

[Illustration: Crosslet fitchee patee patonce moline Calvary.]

The =saltire=, popularly called St. Andrew's cross, is formed like two

bends crossing each other in the centre of the escocheon. A great variety

of opinions has existed as to its origin. Some authors take it for an

antient piece of harness attached to the saddle of a horse to enable the

rider, _sauter dessous_, to jump down.[94] Others derive it from an

instrument used _in saltu_, in the forest, for the purpose of taking wild

beasts; but neither of these hypotheses seems very probable. Leigh says,

"This in the old tyme, was of y{e} height of a man, and was borne of such

as used to scale the walls [_saltare in muros_] of towns. For it was

driven full of pinnes necessary to that purpose. And walles of townes were

_then_ but lowe as appeared by the walls of Rome, whiche were suche that

Remus easelye leaped over them. Witnesseth also the same the citie of

Winchester whose walls were overlooked of Colbrande, chieftaine of the

Danes, who were slayne by Guye, Erle of Warwike." The =cheveron=, which

resembles a pair of rafters, is likewise of very uncertain origin. It has

generally been considered as a kind of architectural emblem. Leigh,

speaking of a coat containing three cheveronels, or little cheverons,

says, "The ancestour of this cote hath builded iij greate houses in one

province," and this remark applies with some truth to the Lewkenors of

Sussex, who bore similar arms, though whether assumed from such a

circumstance I cannot ascertain. The =pile= is a wedge-like figure based

upon the edge of the shield, and having its apex inwards. The following

etymons have been suggested: 1, _pilum_, Lat. the head of an arrow; the

Spaniards and Italians call this ordinary _cuspis_. 2, _pile_, French, a

strong pointed timber driven into boggy ground to make a firm foundation.

3, _pied_, French, the foot; in French armory it is called _pieu_. I

cannot admit any of these derivations, though perhaps my own etymon may

not be deemed less irrelevant, viz. _pellis_, the skin of a beast, whence

our English terms pell, pelt, peltry, &c. The skin of a wild beast,

deprived of the head and fore legs, and fastened round the neck by the

hinder ones, would form a rude garment, such as the hunter would consider

an honourable trophy of his skill, and such as the soldier of an

unpolished age would by no means despise; and it would resemble, with

tolerable exactness, the pile of heraldry. The QUARTER is, as the word

implies, a fourth part of the field, differing in tincture from the

remainder; and the CANTON, a smaller quadrangular figure in the dexter, or

sinister, chief of the escocheon, so called from the French _cantone_,

cornered.

The following figures rank as sub-ordinaries, viz. _Flasques_, _Flanches_,

the _Fret_, _Border_, _Orle_, _Tressure_, _Gyron_, &c.

FLASQUES, always borne in pairs, are two pieces hollowed out at each side

of the shield: FLANCHES and VOIDERS are modifications of this bearing. The

last, says Leigh,[95] "is the reward of a gentlewoman for service by her

done to the prince or princess." It is not improbable that it was borrowed

from a peculiar fashion in female costume which prevailed temp. Richard

II. Chaucer uses the word _voided_ in the sense of removed, made empty,

and this is probably the origin of the term.

[Illustration]

When a shield is divided into eight acute-angled triangles, by lines drawn

perpendicularly, horizontally, and diagonally through the centre, it is

blazoned by the phrase '_gyronny_ of eight,' and so of any other number of

equal partitions of the same form. If one of these triangles occur singly

it is termed a _gyron_. For this term the nomenclature of heraldry is

indebted to the Spanish language, in which it means a gore, gusset, or

triangular piece of cloth. The family of Giron, subsequently ennobled as

Dukes of Ossona, bear three such figures in their arms, from the following

circumstance. Alphonso VI, king of Spain, in a battle with the Moors, had

his horse killed under him, when, being in great personal danger, he was

rescued and remounted by Don Roderico de Cissneres, who, as a memorial of

the event, cut three triangular pieces from his sovereign's mantle, which

being afterwards exhibited to the king, he bestowed on his valiant

follower an adequate reward, and gave him permission to bear three gyrons

as his arms. The English family of Gurr, whose surname was probably

derived from the village of Gueures, near Dieppe, bear 'gyronny ... and

...' as a 'canting' or allusive coat. Some derive this species of bearing

from a kind of patchwork mantle of various colours. Hence, doubtless, also

arose that picturesque species of bearing called _chequy_, consisting of

alternate squares of different tinctures. Chaucer and Spenser use the word

_checkelatoun_; probably in this sense:

"His robe was _cheque-latoun_."

_Knight's Tale._

"But in a jacket, quilted richly rare

Upon _checklaton_, was he richly dight."

_Faerie Queen._

The chequered dress of the Celtic nations, still retained in the Highland

plaid or tartan, may, in some way, have originated the chequered coat of

heraldry. At all events, this is a more probable source than the

chess-board, from which some writers derive it.

Most of the ordinaries have their diminutives, as the bendlet, the pallet,

the cheveronel, &c. These are usually bounded by straight lines; but the

ordinaries themselves admit of a variety of modifications of outline, as

follows: 1. _Indented_, like the teeth of a saw. According to Upton, this

line represents the teeth of wild beasts, but Dallaway derives it from a

moulding much employed in Saxon architecture. 2. _Crenelle_, or embattled,

like the top of a castle, (Lat. _crena_, a notch.) The 'licentia

crenellare' of the middle ages was the sovereign's permission to his

nobles to embattle or fortify their mansions. 3. _Nebuly_ (nebulosus,)

from its resemblance to clouds. 4. _Wavy_, or undulated. 5. _Dancette_,

like indented, but larger, and consisting of only three pieces. 6.

_Engrailed_, a number of little semi-circles connected in a line, the

points of junction being turned outward. Johnson derives this word from

the French 'grele,' hail, marked or indented as with hailstones. And 7.

_Invecked_, the same as the last, but reversed.

ROUNDLES are charges, as their name implies, of a circular form. The first

idea of bearing them as charges in heraldry may have been suggested by the

studs or knobs by which the parts of an actual buckler were strengthened

and held together. As soon as blazon was introduced they received

distinctive names, according to their tinctures. The bezant (or) was

supposed to represent a gold coin, in value about a ducat, struck at

Constantinople (Byzantium) in the times of the Crusades. Leigh, however,

assigns it a much greater value, and calls it a talent weighing 104 lbs.

troy, and worth 3750_l._ "Of these beisaunts you shall rede dyversly in

Scripture, as when Salomon had geuen unto Hiram xx cities, he again gave

vnto Salomon 120 _beisaunts_ of gold, whereof these toke their first

name," ('obeisance?') The _plate_ (argent) was probably some kind of

silver coin. The _torteaux_ (red) called in the Boke of S. A. "tortellys,

or litill cakys," are said to be emblematical of plenty, and to represent

a cake of bread. The modern French 'torteau' is applied more exclusively

to a kind of oil-cake of an oblong form used as food for cattle.

'Tortilla,' in Spanish, is a cake compounded of flour and lard. Dame J.

Berners says it should be called _wastel_. 'Wastel-brede' is defined in

the glossary to Chaucer, as bread made of the finest flour, and derived

from the French 'gasteau.' Chaucer represents his Prioresse as keeping

small hounds

"that she fedde

With rosted flesh, and milk and _wastel brede_."

_Prol. Cant. Tales._

_Pommes_ (green), says Dallaway, are berries; but if etymology is worth

anything, they must be apples, and such Leigh calls them. _Hurts_ (blue)

the same authority considers berries, and most heralds have taken them to

be those diminutive things, whortleberries, or as they are called in

Sussex, Cornwall, and Devonshire, 'hurts.' But I am rather inclined with

Leigh to consider them representations of the 'black and _blue_'

contusions resulting from the "clumsy thumps" of war. _Pellets_ or

_Ogresses_ (black) are the 'piletta' or leaden knobs forming the heads of

blunt arrows for killing deer without injuring the skin.[96] _Golpes_

(purple) are wounds, and when they stand five in a shield may have a

religious allusion to the five wounds of Christ. _Oranges_ (tenne) speak

for themselves; and _Guzes_, Leigh says, are eyeballs; but as their colour

is sanguine, or dull red, this seems unlikely.

The _Annulet_ seems to have been taken from the ring armour, much in use

about the period of the Norman Conquest. The _Orle_, or false escocheon,

is merely a band going round the shield at a short distance from the edge:

it was probably borrowed from an antient mode of ornamenting a shield,

serving as a kind of frame to the principal charge. Animals or flowers

disposed round the escocheon in the same form, are also termed an orle.

The _bordure_, or border, explains itself. Like the orle, it was primarily

designed as an ornament. The _lozenge_, derived by Glover from the quarry,

or small pane of glass of this shape, Dallaway thinks originated in the

diamond-shaped cushions which occur on tombs to support the heads of

female effigies, as helmets do those of men. The _mascle_ is taken for the

mesh of a net. When many are united the arms are blazoned _masculy_, and

then represent a rich network thrown over the armour. At the siege of

Carlaverok a certain knight is described as having his armour and

vestments 'masculy or and azure:'

"Son harnois et son attire

Avoit mascle de or et de azure."

_Billets_ have been conjectured to be representations of oblong camps, but

from the name they would seem to be _letters_. They may have been

originally assigned to bearers of important despatches. _Guttee_ is the

term applied to a field or charge sprinkled over with drops of gold,

silver, blood, tears, &c. according to the tincture. This kind of bearing

is said to have originated with the Duke of Anjou, King of Sicily, who,

after the loss of that island, appeared at a tournament with a black

shield sprinkled with drops of water, to represent tears, thus indicating

both his grief and his loss.[97] A warrior returning victorious from

battle, with his buckler sprinkled with blood, would, in the early days of

heraldry, readily have adopted the bearing afterwards called 'guttee de

sang.' In those times the besiegers of a fortress were often assailed with

boiling pitch, poured by the besieged through the machicolations of the

wall constructed for such purposes. Splashes of this pitch falling upon

some besieger's shield, in all probability gave the first idea of 'guttee

de poix.' The _fusil_ is like the lozenge, but narrower. Whatever the

charge may mean, the name is evidently a corruption of the Fr. _fuseau_, a

spindle. The _fret_ may have been borrowed from the architectural

ornaments of the interior of a roof, or more probably, from a knotted

cord. It is sometimes called =Harington's Knot=, though it is not

peculiar to the arms of that family, for it was also borne by the baronial

races of Echingham, Audley, and Verdon, and by many other families.[98]

My purpose being not to describe all the charges or figures occurring in

heraldry, but merely to assign a reasonable origin for those which appear

to the uninitiated to have neither propriety nor meaning, I pass by many

others, and come to those to which a symbolical sense is more readily

attachable, as the heavenly bodies, animals, vegetables, weapons of war,

implements of labour, &c. &c. Here I shall merely offer some general

remarks, for it is less my object to gratify curiosity on this subject

than to excite that attention to it which it really deserves, and

therefore I must say, with gentle Dame Julyan, "Bot for to reherce all the

signys that be borne in armys it were too long a tarying, nor I can not do

hit: _ther be so mony_!"

The heavenly bodies occur frequently in heraldry, and include the Sun, 'in

his glory,' or 'eclipsed;' the Moon, 'incressant,' 'in her complement,'

'decressant,' and 'in her detriment,' or eclipse; stars and comets. The

_crescent_ was the standard of the Saracens during the crusades, as it is

of their successors, the Turks, at this day. As one of the antient laws of

chivalry enacted that the vanquisher of a Saracen gentleman should assume

his arms, it is not remarkable that the crescent was, in the latter

Crusades, often transferred to the Christian shield; although we must

reject the notion that the infidels bore regular heraldric devices. It is

probable, however, that their bucklers were ornamented in various ways

with their national symbol. Several authentic instances of arms with

crescents borne by English families from that early date, are to be found.

Most of the families of Ellis, of this country, bear a cross with four or

more crescents, derived from Sir Archibald Ellis, of Yorkshire, who went

to the Holy Land. From a miraculous event said to have happened during the

Crusade under Rich. I. to Sir Robert Sackville, the noble descendants of

that personage still bear an _estoile_, or star, as their crest.

The ELEMENTS also furnish armorial charges, as flames of fire, rocks,

stones, _islands_, thunderbolts, clouds, rainbows, water, and fountains.

These last are represented by azure roundles charged with three bars wavy

argent. In the arms of Sykes, of Yorkshire, they are called _sykes_--that

being a provincialism for little pools or springs. The antient family of

Gorges bore a _gurges_, or whirlpool, an unique instance, I believe, of

that bearing.

If we derive heraldry from the standards of antient nations, then,

undoubtedly, ANIMALS are the very oldest of armorial charges, since those

standards almost invariably exhibited some animal as their device.

Familiar examples present themselves in the Roman _eagle_ and the Saxon

_horse_. Of QUADRUPEDS the lion occupies the first place, and is far more

usual than any other animal whatever. The king of beasts is found in the

heraldric field in almost every variety of posture, and tinctured with

every hue recognized by the laws of blazon. It may be remarked here, that

in the early days of heraldry animals were probably borne of their

'proper' or natural colour, but as, in process of time, the use of arms

became more common, and the generous qualities of the lion rendered him

the object of general regard as an armorial ensign, it became absolutely

necessary to vary his attitudes and colours, for the purposes of

distinction. The same remark applies, in a greater or less degree, to

other animals and objects. As the emblem of courage the lion has been

represented and misrepresented in a thousand forms. A well-drawn heraldric

lion is a complete caricature of the animal; and hence the ire displayed

by the country herald-painter when shown the lions in the Tower is very

excusable: "What!" said the honest man, "tell me that's a lion; why I've

painted lions rampant and lions passant, and all sorts of lions these five

and twenty years, and for sure I ought to know what a lion's like better

than all that!"

The circumstance of the royal arms of England containing three lions and

those of Scotland one, has rendered this animal a special favourite with

British armorists. Leigh and Guillim, particularly, are very minute in

their remarks upon him. The French heralds object to the representation of

the lion _guardant_, that is, with his face turned full upon the

spectator, and declare that this posture is proper to the leopard,

"wherein," says Guillim, "they offer great indignity to that _roiall

beast_, in that they will not admit him, as saith Upton, to show his full

face, the sight whereof doth terrifie and astonish all the beasts of the

field, and wherein consisteth his chiefest majesty, '=quia omnia animalia

debent depingi et designari in suo ferociore actu=.'" The French still

allude derisively to our national charge as only a leopard. That one of

these dissimilar animals could be mistaken for the other affords singular

evidence of the rudeness with which arms in the middle ages were

delineated.

[Illustration: (Lyon rampant. Guillim.)]

The _leopard_, as an heraldric charge, has been treated with more obloquy

than he deserves, from the erroneous notion that he was a bigenerous

animal, bred between the lion and the female panther. The _bear_ is

generally borne muzzled and 'salient,' leaping, or rather jumping, the

posture of the animal most familiar to our ancestors, who greatly

delighted in his uncouth dancing. The _elephant_, the _wolf_, one of the

most elegant of heraldric devices, the _fox_, the _rabbit_, the

_squirrel_, the _monkey_, the _beaver_, the _porcupine_, the

_cat-a-mountain_, and many other wild animals borne in arms, need no

comment.

The _heraldric tiger_ furnishes another proof of the ignorance of our

ancestors in the natural history of foreign animals. It is represented

thus:

[Illustration]

Among the domestic animals borne in arms are the _horse_, the _ass_, the

_camel_, the _bull_, the _ox_, the _greyhound_, the _talbot_ or mastiff,

the _ram_, the _lamb_, the _hog_, &c.

The horse, from his associations with chivalry and war, has ever been a

favourite charge. The lamb, as commonly represented, with the nimbus round

its head and the banner of the cross, is termed a _holy lamb_. The _alant_

or wolf-dog, an extinct species, is of rare occurrence in arms.

"Abouten his char ther wenten white _alauns_,

Twenty and mo as gret as any stere,

To hunten at the leon or the dere."

_Chaucer._

The _alant_ was the supporter of Fynes, Lord Dacre.

Most of the above were probably borne emblematically, but the _stag_,

_deer_, _boar_, &c., seem to be trophies of the chase, especially when

their heads only occur. The heads and other parts of animals are

represented either as _couped_, cut off smoothly, or _erased_, torn off as

it were with violence, leaving the place of separation jagged and uneven.

The boar's head may have been derived from the old custom of serving up a

boar's head at the tables of feudal nobles. This practice is still

observed in the hall of Queen's College, Oxford, on Christmas-day, when an

antient song or carol, appropriate enough to the ceremony, though not very

well befitting the time and the place, is sung. It begins thus:

"The boar's head in hand bear I,

Bedeck'd with bays and rosemary,

And I pray you, my masters, be merry,

Quot estis in convivio.

=Caput apri defero

Reddens laudes Domino.="

The presentation of a boar's head forms the condition of several feudal

tenures in various parts of the country. As an heraldric bearing, and as a

sign for inns, it is of very antient date. Of its latter application the

far-famed hostelry in Eastcheap affords one among many examples; while its

use in armory was familiar to the father of English poesy, who, describing

the equipments of Sir Thopas, says,

"His sheld was all of gold so red

And therin was a _bore's hed_,

A charboncle beside."

The annexed singular bearing, 'a cup with a boar's head erect,' evidently

alludes to some obsolete custom or tenure.

[Illustration]

It may be remarked here that many of the terms of heraldry, when applied

to the parts and attitudes of 'beastes of venerie and huntyng,' are

identical with the expressions used by learned _chasseurs_ of the 'olden

tyme,' and which are fully elucidated by Dame Julyan, Manwood,

Blundeville, and other writers on woodcraft and the chase; a _science_, by

the way, as systematic in the employment of terms as heraldry itself. This

remark applies equally to the technical words in falconry used in

describing falcons, hawks, &c., when they occur in armory.

When antient armorists had so far departed from the propriety of nature as

to paint swans red and tigers green, it was not difficult to admit still

greater monstrosities. Double-headed and double-tailed lions and eagles

occur at an early date; but these are nothing when compared with the

double and triple-_bodied_ lions figured by Leigh.[99] It would be a mere

waste of time to speculate upon the origin of such bearings, which owe

their birth to "the rich exuberance of a Gothick fancy"--the fertile

source of the chimerical figures noticed in the next chapter.

Among BIRDS, the _eagle_ holds the highest rank. The lyon was the royal

beast--this the imperial bird. He is almost uniformly exhibited in front,

with expanded wings, and blazoned by the term 'displayed.' The _falcon_,

_hawk_, _moor-cock_, _swan_, _cock_, _owl_, _stork_, _raven_, _turkey_,

_peacock_, _swallow_, and many others of the winged nation are well known

to the most careless observer of armorial ensigns. The _Cornish chough_, a

favourite charge, is curiously described by Clarke as "a _fine blue or

purple black-bird_, with red beak and legs," and said to be "a noble

bearing of antiquity, being accounted the _king of crows_!"

The _pelican_ was believed to feed her young with her own blood, and

therefore represented "vulning herself," that is, pecking her breast for a

supply of the vital fluid.[100] The wings are usually indorsed or thrown

upwards; "but this," says Berry, "is unnecessary in the blazon, as that is

the only position in which the pelican is represented in coat-armour."

This may be true of modern heraldry, but antiently this bird was borne

'close,' that is, with the wings down. The pelicans in the arms of the

family of Pelham, resident at Laughton, co. Sussex, temp. Henry IV, were

represented in this manner, as appears from a shield in one of the

spandrels of the western door of Laughton church, and from some painted

glass in the churches of Waldron and Warbleton. In a carving of the

fifteenth century, among the ruins of Robertsbridge Abbey, the pelicans

have their wings slightly raised, and in the modern arms of Pelham they

are indorsed, as shown below.

[Illustration: Laughton Church.]

[Illustration: Robertsbridge Abbey.]

[Illustration: Modern Arms.]

Fishes, as borne in arms, have recently been made the subject of an able,

most interesting, and beautifully illustrated volume.[101] In my _en

passant_ survey of the ensigns of armory it will suffice to remark that

the _dolphin_ takes the same rank among heraldric fishes as the lion

occupies among quadrupeds, and the eagle among birds; after him the

_pike_, _salmon_, _barbel_, and _trout_ hold an honourable place, and even

the _herring_ and _sprat_ are not deemed too mean for armory. Neither have

shell-fish been overlooked: the _escallop_ in particular, from its

religious associations, has always been a special favourite.

AMPHIBIA, REPTILES, and INSECTS sometimes occur, particularly _toads_,

_serpents_, _adders_, _tortoises_, _scorpions_, _snails_, _grasshoppers_,

_spiders_, _ants_, _bees_, and _gad-flies_. It is singular that such

despised and noxious creatures as the scorpion and the toad should have

been adopted as marks of honour; yet such, in former times, was the taste

for _allusive_ arms that the Botreuxes, of Cornwall, relinquished a simple

antient coat in favour of one containing three toads, because the word

'botru' in the Cornish language signified a toad!

The HUMAN FIGURE and its parts are employed in many arms. The arms

pertaining to the bishopric of Salisbury contain a representation of "our

blessed Lady, with her son in her right hand and a sceptre in her left."

The arms of the see of Chichester are the most singular to be found in the

whole circle of church heraldry. They are blazoned thus: 'Azure,

_Prester-John_ hooded, sitting on a tomb-stone; in his sinister hand an

open book; his dexter hand extended, with the two fore-fingers erect, all

or; _in his mouth_ a sword, fessewise, gules, hilt and pommel or, the

point to the sinister.'[102] Prester or Presbyter-John, the person here

represented, was a fabulous person of the middle ages, who was imagined to

sway the sceptre of a powerful empire _somewhere_ in the East, and who

must have been a very long-lived personage, unless he was _reproduced_

from time to time like the phoenix of antiquity. Many writers, during

the thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries, make mention of him.

Sir John Maundevile describes his territory, which, however, he did not

visit. That country, according to his statement, contained rocks of

adamant,[103] which attracted all the ships that happened to come near

them, until the congeries appeared like a forest, and became a kind of

floating island. It also abounded in popinjays or parrots as "plentee as

gees," and precious stones large enough to make "plateres, dissches, and

cuppes." "Many other marveylles been there," he adds, "so that it were to

cumbrous and to long to putten it in scripture of bokes." He describes the

Emperor himself as "cristene," and believing "wel in the Fadre, in the

Sone, and in the Holy Gost," yet, in some minor points, not quite sound in

the faith. As to his imperial state, he possessed 72 provinces, over each

of which presided a king; and he had so great an army that he could devote

330,000 men to guard his standards, which were "3 crosses of gold, fyn,

grete and hye, fulle of precious stones." It is related of Columbus that

he saw on one of the islands of the West Indies, which he then apprehended

to be a part of the continent of Asia, a grave and sacred personage whom

he at first believed to be Prester-John. This incident serves to show that

the existence of this chimerical being was credited even so lately as the

close of the fifteenth century, although Roger Bacon, in the thirteenth,

doubted many of the tales related of him--"de quo tanta fama solebat esse,

et multa falsa dicta sunt et scripta."[104] The best account of him is to

be found in the work of Matthew Paris, the monk of St. Albans, who wrote

before the year 1250. Marco Polo also mentions him in his travels.[105]

Porny places him in Abyssinia under the title of _Preter cham_, or 'prince

of the worshippers,' while Heckford[106] considers him a priest and one of

the followers of Nestorius, patriarch of Constantinople in the fifth

century.

_Kings_ and _bishops_ occur as charges; but rarely. The heads of Moors and

Saracens are more common, and belong to the category of trophies, having

originated, for the most part, during the Crusades. The arms of the Welsh

family of Vaughan are 'a cheveron between three children's heads ...

enwrapped about the necks with as many snakes proper.' "It hath beene

reported," saith old Guillim, "that some one of the ancestors of this

family was borne with a snake about his necke: _a matter not impossible_,

but yet very unprobable!" Besides heads, the armorial shield is sometimes

charged with arms and legs, naked, vested, or covered with armour, hands,

feet, eyes, hearts, winged and unwinged, &c. The coat of Tremaine exhibits

three arms (et tres manus!) and that of the Isle of Man, three legs, as

here represented. Of the former, Guillim remarks, "these armes and hands

conjoyned and clenched after this manner may signify a treble offer of

revenge for some notable injurie." If we might be jocular upon so grave a

subject as armory, we should consider the second coat a happy allusion to

the geographical position of the island between the three kingdoms of

England, Ireland, and Scotland, as if it had run away from all three, and

were kicking up its heels in derision of the whole empire![107]

[Illustration]

The VEGETABLE KINGDOM has furnished its full quota of charges. We have

whole trees, as the _oak_, _pine_, _pear-tree_, &c.; parts of trees, as

_oak-branches_, and _starved_ (_i.e._ dead) _branches_, trunks of trees,

generally raguly or knobbed; leaves, as _laurel_, _fig_, _elm_,

_woodbine_, _nettle_, and _holly_; fruit, as _pomegranates_, _apples_,

_pears_, _pine-apples_, _grapes_, _acorns_, and _nuts_; flowers, as the

_rose_, _lily_, _columbine_, _gilliflower_, &c.; corn, as stalks of wheat

and rye, and particularly _garbs_ (Fr. gerbes) or wheatsheaves; to which

some add _trefoils_, _quatrefoils_, and _cinquefoils_, and the bearing

familiar to all in the arms of France, and called the _Fleur-de-lis_.

Respecting the _trefoil_, there can be little doubt, as Mr. Dallaway

observes, that it was borrowed from the foliated ornaments of antient

coronets, which again were imitations of the natural wreath. The shamrock,

which is identical with the trefoil, is the national badge of Ireland. Of

the quatre and cinquefoils "almost any conjecture would be weakly

supported. Amongst the very early embellishments of Gothic architecture

are quatrefoils, at first inserted simply in the heads of windows, between

or over the incurvated or elliptical points of the mullions, and

afterwards diversified into various ramifications, which were the florid

additions to that style."[108] These terms are common to both architecture

and heraldry, but from which of the two the other adopted them must remain

in doubt.

The non-heraldric reader will be surprised to learn that the identity of

the _fleur-de-lis_ with the iris or 'royal lily' has ever been called in

question; yet it has been doubted, with much reason, whether an ornamented

spear-head or sceptre be not the thing intended. The Boke of S. A. informs

us that the arms of the king of France were "certainli sende by an awngell

from heuyn, that is to say iij flowris in maner of swerdis in a felde of

asure, the wich certan armys ware geuyn to the forsayd kyng of fraunce in

sygne of euerlasting trowbull, and that he and his successaries all way

with bataill and swereddys (swords) shulde be punyshid!" Those who imagine

the bearing to be a play upon the royal name of Loys or Louis decide in

favour of the flower. Upton calls it '=flos gladioli=.'[109] Perhaps it

was made a flower for the purpose of assimilating it to the English rose;

certainly all our associations, historical and poetical, would tell in

favour of its being such; and such it was undoubtedly understood to be in

the time of Chaucer, who says of Sire Thopas,

"Upon his crest he bare a tour (tower),

And therein stiked a _lily flour_."

Leigh seems to entertain no doubt of its belonging to the vegetable

kingdom; for in his notice of this charge he particularly describes the

flower and the root of the iris. Mr. Montagu, in his recent 'Guide to the

Study of Heraldry,' thinks the arguments of M. de Menestrier "in favour of

the iris so strong as _almost_ to set the question at rest."[110]

[Illustration]

Those who advocate the spear-head view of the question, bring forward the

common heraldric bearing, _a leopard's head jessant de lis_, i. e. thrust

through the mouth with a fleur-de-lis, which passes through the skull as

represented in the above cut. "There cannot," as Dallaway says, "be a more

absurd combination than that of a leopard's head producing a lily, while

the idea that it was typical of the triumph after the chase, when the

head of the animal was thrust through with a spear and so carried in

procession," seems perfectly consistent. Still the query may arise 'how is

it that the head of no other animal, the wolf or boar for instance, is

found represented in a similar manner?'

The little band surrounding the _pieces_ of which the fleur-de-lis of

heraldry is composed is analogous to nothing whatever in the flower, while

it does strongly resemble the forril of metal which surrounds the

insertion of a spear-head into its staff or pole. After an attentive

consideration of both hypotheses, I have no hesitation in affirming that

the fleur-de-lis is _not_ the lily. This is shown, not from the occurrence

of lilies in their proper shape in some coats, and that of the heraldric

_lis_ in others, (for such a variation might have been accidentally made

by the incorrect representations of unskilful painters,) but from the fact

that both lilies and lis are found in one and the same coat--that of Eton

College.[111]

[Illustration]

The Tressure surrounding the lion in the royal arms of Scotland is

blazoned 'fleury and counter-fleury,' that is, having fleurs-de-lis

springing from it, both on the outer and inner sides. The fabulous account

of the tressure is that it was given by Charlemagne to Achaius, king of

Scotland in the year 792, in token of alliance and friendship. Nisbet

says, "The Tressure Flowerie encompasses the Lyon of Scotland, to show

that he should defend the Flower-de-lisses, and _these to continue a

defence to the Lion_."[112]

Now, although we must discard this early existence of the Scottish

ensigns, it is by no means improbable that the addition of the tressure

was made in commemoration of some alliance between the two crowns at a

later date. But the _defence_ which a bulwark of lilies could afford the

king of beasts would be feeble indeed! Yet, upon the supposition that the

fleur-de-lis is intended for a spear-head, such an addition would be

exceedingly appropriate, as forming a kind of chevaux-de-frise[113] around

the animal.

This doubtful charge may serve as a turning point between 'things

naturall' and 'things artificiall.' Among the latter, crowns, sceptres,

orbs, caps of maintenance, mantles of state, and such-like insignia may be

first named. According to Dame Julyan Berners, _crowns_ formed part of the

arms of King Arthur--"iij dragonys and over that an other sheelde of iij

crownys." Mitres, crosiers, &c. occur principally, though not exclusively,

in church heraldry. From attention in the first instance to the 'arts

liberall' came such charges as books, pens, ink-horns, text-letters, as

=A='s, =T='s and =S='s, organ-pipes, hautboys, harps, viols, bells, &c.

The 'arts mechanicall' furnish us with implements of agriculture, as

ploughs, harrows, scythes, wheels, &c. The _Catherine Wheel_ Dallaway

takes for a cogged, or denticulated mill-wheel, with reference to some

feudal tenure, but it seems rather ungallant to rob the female saint of

the instrument of her passion, while St. Andrew and St. George are allowed

to retain theirs in undisturbed possession. Manufactures afford the

wool-comb, the spindle, the shuttle, the comb, the hemp-break, &c. Among

mechanical implements are included pick-axes, mallets, hammers, plummets,

squares, axes, nails, &c. Architecture furnishes towers, walls, bridges,

pillars, &c. From the marine we have antient ships, boats, rudders, masts,

anchors, and sails. From field-sports come bugle (that is bullock) horns,

bows, arrows, pheons or fish-spears, falcons' bells, and lures,

fish-hooks, eel-spears, nets of various kinds, and bird-bolts. The

bird-bolt was a small blunt arrow, with one, two, or three heads, used

with the crossbow for shooting at birds. Hence the adage of '=The fool's

Bolt is soon shot=,' applied to the hasty expression or retort of an

ignorant babbler. John Heywood versifies the proverb thus:

"A foole's bolte is soone shot, and fleeth oftymes fer;

But the foole's bolte and the mark cum few times ner."[114]

From sedentary games are borrowed playing-tables, dice, chess-rooks, &c.

[Illustration]

War has naturally supplied heraldry with a numerous list of charges, as

banners, spears, beacons, drums, trumpets, cannons, or chamber-pieces,

'murthering chain-shot,' burning matches (of rope), portcullises,

battering-rams, crossbows, swords, sabres, lances, battle-axes, and

scaling-ladders; also shields, generally borne in threes, helmets,

morions, gauntlets, greaves (leg armour), horse-trappings, bridles,

saddles, spurs, horse-shoes, shackles, _cum multis aliis_. Many of these,

though disused in modern warfare, will require no explanation, but a few

others whose use is less obvious may be added, as _swepes_, _caltraps_,

and _water-bowgets_.

The _swepe_, sometimes called a _mangonel_, and as such borne in the

canting arms of Magnall, was a war-engine, used for the purpose of hurling

stones into a besieged town or fortress; a species of balista.

[Illustration: Murthering chain-shot.]

[Illustration: Caltrap.]

[Illustration: Beacon.]

[Illustration: Swepe.]

In the celebrated lampoon upon Richard, king of the Romans, who was

obliged, at the battle of Lewes, to take refuge in a windmill, the

following lines occur:

"The Kynge of Alemaigne wende to do full wel,

He saisede the mulne for a castel;

With hare sharpe swerdes he ground the stel,

He wende that the sayles were _mangonel_!"[115]

The _caltrap_ was a cruel contrivance for galling the feet of horses. It

was made of iron, and so constructed that, however it might fall, one of

its four sharp points should be erect. Numbers of them strewed in the

enemy's path served to retard the advance of cavalry, and a retreat was

sometimes secured by dropping them in the flight, and thus cutting off the

pursuit. Its etymology is uncertain, cheval-trap and _gall_-trap have been

suggested with nearly equal claims to probability.

Water-bowgets, or budgets, date from the Crusades, when water had often to

be conveyed across the sandy deserts from a great distance. They are

represented in various grotesque forms as--

[Illustration]

so that it is a matter of curiosity to know in what manner they were

carried. Leigh and others call them _gorges_; but the charge properly

known by that name is a whirlpool, as borne in the armes parlantes of the

family of Gorges.

The _mullet_, a star-like figure, has been taken to represent the rowel of

a spur; but a doubt of this derivation of the charge may be suggested, as

the spur of the middle ages had no rowel, but consisted of one sharp

spike. Some of the old heralds considered mullets as representations of

falling stars--"exhalations inflamed in the aire and stricken back with a

cloud"--which, according to Guillim, are sometimes found on the earth like

a certain jelly, and assuming the form of the charge. The substance

alluded to bears the name of star-jelly. In the Gentleman's Magazine for

1797, are several communications on this subject, in which there is a

great contrariety of opinion, some of the writers contending that it is an

animal substance, while others consider it a vegetable. As it is usually

found in boggy grounds, Dr. Darwin deemed it a mucilage voided by herons

after they have eaten frogs, and Pennant attributed it to gulls. The

antient alchemists called it the flower of heaven, and imagined that from

it they could procure the universal menstruum; but all their researches

ended in discovering that by distillation it yielded some phlegm, volatile

salt, and empyreumatic oil.[116]

Personal costume, although mixed up with the very earliest of heraldric

devices, furnishes scarcely any regular charges. Excepting shoes, caps,

and body-armour, the _maunch_ is almost the only one derived from this

source. This charge, a familiar example of which occurs in the arms of the

noble family of Hastings, represents an antient fashion of sleeve worn

soon after the Conquest, but of such an extravagant form that Leigh

blazons it a _maunch-maltale_, a badly-cut sleeve; and certainly the

example given by him fully justifies the use of that epithet. The taste

for a long pendulous addition to the cuff of the sleeve forms one of the

most curious features of the female costume of the twelfth century.

According to Brydson, the maunch was a distinguished "favour" bestowed on

some knights, being part of the dress of the lady or princess who

presented it.

The woodcut (no inappropriate _tail-piece_ for the present chapter)

delineates several antient forms of this article. Well may Master Leigh

remark, "Of thinges of antiquitee growen out of fashion this is one."

[Illustration: No. 1, Leigh; 3, 4, from Planche's Hist. Brit. Cost.; 2,

Arms of Hastings, from the tomb of W. de Valence, Earl of Pembroke,

Westminster Abbey.

=Mangys be called in armys a sleue.=

_Boke S. A._]

The Curiosities of Heraldry · 第 3 / 13 章