UPHOLSTERING A FRAMED STRUCTURE
FOOTSTOOL.—A stool which makes a very interesting problem for simple
upholstery is shown in Fig. 20. This is typical of that class of
structures on which the coverings completely hide the rails, leaving
only the legs exposed. The rails should be placed ⅜ inch below the
rounded part of the legs, and be at least ⅞ inch thick. Inside
arrises of the rails should be rounded with a rasp to prevent the
webbing from eventually being cut thru. The framework of such a
structure is shown in Fig. 21. Attach the corner blocks as shown in
Fig. 22; then properly stretch the webbing and tack it in place.
The webbing is the ground work of upholstering, and the durability
of the work depends to a considerable degree upon its quality and
proper application. Use the original roll of webbing. This enables
the worker to use the webbing stretcher without waste. Both ends
should be used. This permits the utilization of the two free ends,
and allows freer work. Fig. 23 illustrates the method of using the
webbing stretcher.
[Illustration: FIG. 20]
PROCEDURE.—Fold the end of the webbing over about 1 inch and tack
with five 10-oz. tacks as near the middle of the rail as possible.
This is illustrated in Fig. 24. The ends of the webbing should be
folded over and not under, as suggested before. The tacks will hold
better. The middle length of webbing should be placed first to
facilitate equal spacing between strands. The other free end of the
bolt of webbing should be tacked on the opposite side in like manner
to assure proper spacing. Fig. 24 shows the ends tacked and stretched
from the same side, but in tacking them from the opposite sides it
tends to prevent splitting, for the last ends are to be secured with
seven tacks. After the first end is secured with five tacks use the
webbing stretcher and pull the webbing across, extremely taut, and
fasten with four tacks while thus stretched. Do likewise with the
second strand. Cut each piece about an inch from the tacks; then fold
over and tack with three tacks. Before tacking the two long strands
they should be woven thru the shorter strands as illustrated in Fig.
24. The openings between strands should not exceed 2 inches.
[Illustration: FIG. 21]
Cover the webbing with burlap. The edges of this should project
slightly beyond the ends of the webbing, as illustrated in Fig. 25.
It is desirable, in fact essential, in all upholstery to keep the
cover away from the wood as much as possible. This prevents the cover
from becoming worn or cut, and avoids a hard, uncomfortable edge for
the occupant of the upholstered structure.
[Illustration: FIG. 22]
[Illustration: FIG. 23]
A simple expedient to avoid this contact with wood is to attach
a hard edge all around the top of the rail. This edge is made by
tacking strips of burlap on in such a manner that tow may be rolled
in them. They are then retacked behind the roll. The first row of
tacks should be placed so that the heads run flush with the outer
edge of the rail. The strip of burlap on the farther side of the
stool shown in Fig. 26 is fastened in this way. The roll on the near
side is complete. On the left end the burlap is shown partly rolled
back to reveal the tow in place. The tow must be thoroly worked in
with the finger to produce an even, smooth edge, and the burlap drawn
tight to make it firm.
[Illustration: FIG. 24]
Fig. 27 shows all four rolls in place ready for the corner or
upholstery blocks, providing the first form of corner blocks
illustrated in Fig. 22 have not been attached. The first form of
block is preferred by most workmen. In Fig. 26 is shown the second
form of corner block in place. This is fitted behind the rolls,
and is cut in a manner to avoid short grain, which has a tendency
to split. Corner blocks are required when gimp is run continuous
around the edge of the cover. These are secured with several brads,
against both posts and rails. Take tow and pick it over thoroly; then
place it upon the stool making a rounded heap from the top edges of
the rolls. Pack and work into place very thoroly to secure an even
seat. The hands easily detect uneven areas, and may be more readily
depended upon than the eyes.
[Illustration: FIG. 25]
[Illustration: FIG. 26]
[Illustration: FIG. 27]
Now stretch and tack the muslin in place. Fig. 28 shows the processes
completed. Slip-tack it in the centers of four sides with two or
three tacks to a side. Slit the muslin diagonally from the corners to
a point immediately inside the legs. Fold the edges under; work from
the center toward the corners, and tack the muslin permanently. Keep
the muslin smooth and drawn tightly.
[Illustration: FIG. 28]
The covering is placed practically in the same manner as the muslin.
Great care must be exercised to avoid cutting too far at the corners,
to have the material fit snugly, and to have the whole job firm and
smooth. If, after the gimp has been placed, portions of the covering
show below, these may be trimmed easily with a sharp knife or chisel.
The method of fastening gimp has been explained. Fig. 29 illustrates
the scheme of tacking, folding and nailing. In Fig. 30 are shown
different treatments in the placing of gimp. The right-hand stool
requires no roll, inasmuch as the gimp is fastened on the top of the
rails.
[Illustration: FIG. 29]
[Illustration: FIG. 30]
MATERIALS.—The following materials are required for upholstering a
stool such as illustrated in Fig. 20:
QUANTITY MATERIAL SIZE
2 yards Webbing L. M. C. 3½ inches
5 dozen Tacks 10 ounces.
1 piece Burlap 12×18 inches
2 pieces Burlap 3×8 inches
2 pieces Burlap 3×13 inches
¾ pounds Tow, fine
1 piece Muslin 14×20 inches
1 piece Wadding 10×16 inches
1 piece Marokene 19×25 inches
1 piece Gimp 2½ yards
5 dozen Metalene Nails
[Illustration: FIG. 31]
ORDER OF PROCEDURE.—The following order of processes in upholstering
may be considered standard:
1. Rasp inside arrises of rails.
2. Apply webbing.
3. Fasten burlap.
4. Secure rolls on top edges.
5. Fasten corner blocks.
6. Pack with tow.
7. Place muslin.
8. Place the covering.
9. Tack gimp in place.
10. Place nails.
DIFFERENT METHODS.—This type of footstool may be treated in a variety
of ways. Webbing may be omitted as a base for the upholstery and a
board substituted, preferably some thin stock. Instead of bringing
the cover down to the lower edge of the rails as in Fig. 20, a
shallow rabbet may be run and the upholstery brought to the edge of
this as shown in Fig. 31. Or it may be treated in the manner shown on
the footstool illustrated in Fig. 30. In this instance it would be
similar to a pad seat. The rails of the stool should here be placed
even with the chamfer on the legs. The stool may also be upholstered
with a welt edge. This method is very desirable when the worker is
limited to small pieces of tapestry or leather. Welt-edged work will
be described in a chapter on spring-edge work.
PART III
UPHOLSTERY WITH SPRINGS
CHAPTER VI
MAKING A HARD-EDGE SEAT
The hard-edge seat as it is technically termed is relatively simple
when compared with other kinds of upholstering, but it is probably
the most important of the group. The edge of the seat needs to be
stuffed and sewed in a manner that makes it hard and firm, while
the center is springy. With a working knowledge of this class of
upholstery one may make some of the finest pieces of furniture
without difficulty. The directions to be given may be modified to
suit any particular piece of work in this group.
METHOD.—Construct a frame 18 × 24 inches outside dimensions, and
3 inches deep. Employ a simple butt joint, secured with nails
and reinforced with corner blocks as shown in Fig. 32. A light,
close-grained wood, as poplar, basswood or pine is preferred to hard,
open-grained wood.
The webbing is fastened in place as described in Chapter V, using but
three strands crosswise and two the lengthwise of the frame. This is
a different type of work, and the suggestions as to spacing do not
apply here as in the footstool just described. The webbing is placed
so that the springs, six in number, stand over the laps. A distance
of about 3 inches should be left between the outer edge of the frame
and the springs. The webbing is 3½ inches wide, and the No. 3 springs
used are 5 inches across. These dimensions determine that the strands
of webbing should be 3¾ inches from the outer edge of the frame.
Place springs in position turning the bent ends up. Sew these to the
webbing with stitching twine using a 6 or 12 inch double-pointed
needle. Make at least three loops around the bottom coil, fastening
it securely to the webbing. Pull the twine taut and tie the final end
to a nearby stitch. Fig. 33 illustrates the method of sewing.
[Illustration: FIG. 32]
Next the springs are tied with spring twine to keep them in an
upright position, and to prevent breaking down and bending. The twine
also supports the burlap and stuffing above it. After the springs are
tied down the twine should receive all the pull from the reaction.
Upon the permanency of the webbing and spring twine depend the
lasting qualities of the seat. The twine generally deteriorates or
breaks first, and then the webbing. To insure a relatively permanent
seat tie the springs eight times, that is, place four strands across
each spring, one from front to back, one from side to side, and two
diagonals. Multiply the dimension of the frame by one and two-thirds
to determine the lengths of twine required.
[Illustration: FIG. 33]
[Illustration: FIG. 34]
THE PROCESS.—Tie a simple knot in one end of a length of twine.
Drive a 10-oz. tack thru this into the top edge of the frame and in
line with the centre of the spring. Then stretch the twine across
the top of the springs to the opposite side of the frame; pull the
springs down with it until the outer side of the coil is about 6
inches from the bottom and the inner side about 7 inches. Adjust the
springs to stand vertical. Grasp the twine and spring nearest the
fastened end with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand; hold
them, while with the right hand pass the free end of the twine down
inside the coil, up on the left hand side of the fastened end, down
inside the coil again, up on the right hand side of the fastened
end, and thru loop thus formed. Pull it tight. This is called a
clove hitch knot. Its advantage is that it does not loosen even after
the twine over the top of the wire wears off. With the easier knot
the entire twine loosens immediately after the top wears. A careful
examination of Fig. 34, and a little practice will clarify the method
just described. Pull the twine taut to the other side of the coil
and form another knot. This time, however, the twine is passed down
on the outside of the coil first and up on the inside. Before tying
the second spring space it at the top a distance equal to that at the
bottom. When the second end is to be tied, drive a tack part way into
the edge of the frame and wind the twine once and a quarter around
it, pull it tight enough to bring the springs down properly, and
drive tack securely. Drive a second tack close to the one at the end.
The twine should be fastened in just this way so that in moving up
and down with the springs it will not wear away against the head of
the tack.
[Illustration: FIG. 35]
All other twines are fastened and tied in practically the same
manner. However, care must be exercised that the springs are not
drawn down lower with successive strands of twine, or an uneven
strain and wear will result. The last twine should be tied to all
others crossing at the spring centers, to prevent twine wearing at
these points. A study of Fig. 34 should make clear any doubtful point.
Tack a piece of 10 or 12-oz. burlap on the top edge of the frame with
4-oz. tacks, folding the edges over as they are being tacked. Fasten
it just tight enough to insure smoothness, avoiding pulling the
springs down lower. As previously stated all spring reaction strain
should fall on the twine exclusively. Sew the burlap to the springs
with a curved needle and stitching twine. This keeps the burlap in
position, prevents wearing, and helps to unify the seat.
Place the stuffing. Work over about 5 pounds of tow, and work it down
and out over the seat until it extends about 3 inches beyond the
frame as shown to the left of Fig. 35. Be careful to keep the tow
even at all times, especially at the edges.
[Illustration: FIG. 36]
Place a piece of light burlap, 6 or 8-oz. weight over the tow. It
should be large enough to be slip-tacked on the sides of the frame.
Stitch thru the two layers of burlap and the tow with a 12-inch
double-pointed needle. The row of stitching should come just outside
the edge of the springs. Each stitch should be about 3 inches long,
and it is formed by passing the needle up and down thru the burlap.
After all four sides have been stitched pull the twine tight. Begin
at the first stitch and pull each taut in succession. Finally take
a few stitches thru the center of the seat at irregular intervals,
thus making the seat firm and compact. Do not stitch around the loose
coils of the springs.
[Illustration: FIG. 37]
[Illustration: FIG. 38]
Now release the slip tacking and roll the loose edges of the burlap
under the tow. Drive tacks thru that part of the burlap which comes
in contact with the top edge of the frame, beginning at the center of
each of the four sides and working toward the corners. Use precaution
to make all sides equal. Tack the corners last. Should they be too
full, due to the overlapping of the burlap, cut away some burlap and
remove the necessary amount of tow to keep the corner even with the
sides.
We now arrive at that process in the development of the seat from
which this class of upholstery derives its name. The stitching of
the rolled edge already formed is rather difficult, and care must be
exercised to assure a neat appearing seat. Stitch the edge around
to the number of two or three rows. Use a 6-inch curved needle, and
beginning at the left-hand end of one of the rolls, start the needle
about 1½ inches from the row of tacks, and allow it to emerge about
1½ inches from the row of stitching. About 1½ inches to the right
insert the needle into the roll again about ¾ inch from the row of
stitching, and allow it to emerge about ¾ inch from the row of tacks.
Tie the end of the twine around the other with a double slip knot.
Insert the needle again about 1½ inches to the right, up thru the
roll, and down as before. Repeat this operation around the four sides
of the seat, regulating as the stitching progresses. The right-hand
needle in Fig. 36 shows the first row of stitching. Always insert
the needle at a right angle to the roll, for the arc of the needle
gathers in considerable tow which is forced into the roll as the
twine is pulled taut.
The second row of stitching is also illustrated in Fig. 36. The
stitches in this operation are not made in a zig-zag manner as in
the first row. The needle is inserted about ½ inch above the first
row of stitching and allowed to emerge at the same distance on top.
Work to the left at an interval of ¾ inch and use the double slip
knot as previously. Pass the needle to the right about 2½ inches and
insert it as at first, then carry it back again about ¾ inch and push
it thru the roll allowing the end to project; then loop the twine
around the point. See left-hand needle in Fig. 36. Repeat on all
four sides. After the second row of stitching is completed a third
row of stitching may be made. Then place more stuffing on the top
of the seat, rounding out all irregularities. This is called double
stuffing, and work of this kind is termed double stuffed work. Hair
is extremely resilient, and used for this purpose adds life to the
seat. Moss will answer the purpose. Place a layer of cotton batting
over this. Then a piece of muslin is finally tacked over all. Fig. 37
shows the muslin partly tacked, and the two layers of material rolled
back. Keep the muslin smooth, especially at the corners, cutting away
all surplus material.
[Illustration: FIG. 39]
Use a cover of soft material rather than one of leather or
substitutes. Secure it in place like the muslin, only tack it under
the lower edges of the frame and fold it carefully at the corners as
illustrated in Fig. 38. The process of blind stitching is plainly
shown. When the seat has been covered tack a piece of cambric
underneath. The hard-edge seat is then finished. Fig. 39 shows the
completed cricket.
Figs. 40 and 41 illustrate double stuffed hard-edge seats utilized in
chairs. The rocker in its entirety is the product of a young woman, a
student in the author’s class.
A QUEEN ANNE STOOL.—This stool also has a hard-edge seat but the
method followed is a modification of the one just described. In the
former the upholstered seat was built over a box or frame, and fitted
snugly into the cricket base. In this project the upholstery is
fastened permanently to the rails; it becomes an integral part of the
structure. The edge is blind stitched. The webbing cannot be tacked
directly to the rails; they are too weak to withstand the strain,
and in this instance are curved or formed, which precludes tacking
webbing underneath. In such instances the webbing is folded several
times and tacked thru the folds against the inner sides of the rail.
If the rails are not sufficiently strong strips may be screwed on as
reinforcement. This has been done in this instance as shown in Fig.
42. Frequently on such structures a brace or two is placed across
between the long rails.
[Illustration: FIG. 40]
[Illustration: FIG. 41]
The identical method of upholstering is followed from this point on
as in the cricket, up to the point of stuffing. This seat is shallow
requiring considerably less tow. Place just a sufficient amount to
prevent the springs from being felt under pressure from the hand;
then place and secure the burlap in the usual manner.
[Illustration: FIG. 42]
Next sew the hard edge with a 12-inch straight double-pointed
needle. Begin about ¾ inch above the rail, and permit the needle to
emerge above about 4 inches from the edge. The left-hand needle in
Fig. 43 shows the method. Pull the needle up to its eye as shown in
the middle needle; then bend the point toward the lower edge. As
it emerges toward the right loop the twine around the needle and
pull it thru. This brings the twine around the tow, pulls it down
firmly toward the lower edge and holds it there. This operation is
frequently called blind hard-edge stitching. The Frontispiece shows
the finished stool, and Fig. 44 another stool employing the same form
of seat.
[Illustration: FIG. 43]
[Illustration: FIG. 44]
CHAPTER VII
RE-UPHOLSTERING
The first evidence of deterioration in much old spring upholstered
furniture is a sagging seat. If attended to at the first indication
of sag the fault may be remedied by simply retacking the webbing
which most likely has pulled away from the rails. If the sag is
not remedied shortly the stuffing begins to shift, and the exposed
springs will soon cut or wear a hole thru the cover. Then the seat
is practically beyond repair, with the exception of the utilization
of the springs. Should the springs show evidence of rust, or if they
have lost their temper and resiliency, new ones are required. The
best policy is to repair a seat at the first indications of sag,
providing the materials generally are worthy of repair.
[Illustration: FIG. 45]
In Fig. 45 is shown a small rocker with webbing and springs placed,
and springs properly tied. This seat is a reconstruction job. Note
that the cords are secured inside the rails, and that the webbing
is tacked underneath the rails excepting on the front rail where it
is fastened inside. This is necessary because of the curve on the
bottom of the front rail. It shows the base for a hard-edge seat,
and is treated in the same manner as the Queen Anne stool previously
described. The one exception is that the goods are to be stretched
over the faces of the rails and tacked underneath.
OLD FURNITURE.—Many heirlooms and other pieces of old furniture may
be repaired by reglueing and replacing parts, or by re-upholstering,
and the whole refinished so that it will compare favorably with fine
pieces of furniture. A piece of furniture of this kind is illustrated
in Fig. 46. The treatment of the seat is somewhat different from that
described before. The front edge has a hard edge, identical to that
described in Chapter VI. The edges at the sides and back need no
sewing; at least, they require very little stitching.
[Illustration: FIG. 46]
[Illustration: FIG. 47]
The webbing is tacked on the inner edges of the back, otherwise the
rabbet would prove too shallow to permit the gimp to run flush with
the wood surface. The stuffing should be stitched to the burlap and
webbing. This holds all firmly together.
To upholster the arms tack twine over the edges, forming loose loops
into which stuffing may be placed. This twine holds the stuffing in
place while the muslin is being tacked and the proper shape or form
given to the arms. Then place the cover over this, carefully folding
and drawing at the corners. Tack firmly in place and attach the gimp.
Fig. 47 illustrates an overstuffed chair. The processes described
for making a hard-edge seat are followed on a chair of this kind. It
requires patience to upholster, but when covered with a good piece
of tapestry results in a very valuable and comfortable piece of
furniture.
In Fig. 48 is illustrated a rocker which shows examples of both loose
and attached pads on a single structure. The seat is a hard-edge
loose pad, made in a manner identical to the cricket, but with a
curved front which increases the difficulty of the work. The arms are
loose pads held by means of dowels. The back pad is fastened to the
frame by means of screws, secured before the back part of the cover
is attached. With substantial upholstery work this type of chair is
both serviceable and comfortable.
[Illustration: FIG. 48]
CHAPTER VIII
SPRING-EDGE UPHOLSTERY
The two examples of furniture illustrated in Fig. 49 are two types
which are upholstered in a very different manner from any of the
processes described thus far. This is spring-edge work, and is very
generally employed on sofas, lounges and settees. In upholstery of
this kind the springs must be placed flush with the outside of the
frame. This necessitates bending the springs out somewhat.
Fig. 50 shows a chair of this type with webbing attached and the
method of stitching the springs to the webbing. Note the spacing
of the webbing. Fig. 51 shows a top view of the same seat. Notice
that the springs are flush with the outside surface of the rail.
The spring wire is shown attached and formed. This form must be
accurately made for it determines the final outline of the seat.
The wire is fastened near the ends to the upholstery blocks, with
staples, and to the springs by means of stitching twine coiled and
tied. There is on the market a certain metal clip for fastening the
coil and wire together. These clips are attached by means of a pair
of special pliers.
Fig. 52 shows the seat in a natural view. Note the method of tying
the springs. This is different from the method previously described.
The twine is brought down inside of a spring and tied to a second or
third coil instead of over the outside top coil. This permits the top
coil to lie horizontal, and braces the spring so it remains vertical.
Fig. 51 also illustrates this method. A twine is also tacked to the
top of the frame and carried up to the spring wire and down to the
frame again. It is clearly shown in Fig. 52. This twine braces the
springs and prevents sagging, and results in a vertical motion rather
than partially horizontal when the seat is used.
Over this spring work a piece of burlap is then placed and tacked
with 4-oz. tacks on the top edge of the frame, as illustrated in Fig.
53. This burlap must fit tight enough to be smooth, but care must be
exercised that it does not fit so tight as to result in the pulling
down of the springs. Next place a layer of tow over the burlap.
Follow with another piece of burlap, and sew onto the spring wire
instead of tacking to the frame as in a hard-edge seat. Next form the
hard edge, and finish off with tow or moss as described previously.
[Illustration: FIG. 49]
Fig. 54 shows the various steps in the building up of a seat. After
the tow has been placed lay on a piece of blue sheet wadding or a
layer of cotton batting. Lay the cover over this and tack it loosely
upon the frame and upholstery blocks at the back; stretch toward the
front and fasten underneath the spring wire with skewers, and secure
it in a similar manner at the sides. Then adjust it carefully; tack
permanently at the back, and then sew just under the spring wire.
These stitches may be seen at the left in Fig. 54.
[Illustration: FIG. 50]
[Illustration: FIG. 51]
[Illustration: FIG. 52]
[Illustration: FIG. 53]
[Illustration: FIG. 54]
The next step is the placing of the welt edge. This edge is clearly
shown in Fig. 55. Just below the turn of the top piece a beading may
be seen. This is the welt edge, and immediately below is the band.
In Fig. 54 is shown a close view of the welt edge. The process of
making it is as follows: Fold a narrow strip of cloth around a soft
cord. Hold it against the seat with the edges down; turn the band
inside out and sew its lower edge. Run the curved needle thru it and
the welting so that the seam comes immediately above the seam which
fastens the top cover to the seat. Sew from right to left, for then
the piece may be handled conveniently with the left hand while sewing
is done with the right. Three pieces are manipulated in this work;
the cord, the narrow band of cloth folded around the cord, and the
front band. This process may be simplified if a sewing machine is
employed. Then the welting cord may be sewed into the top edge of
the front band. When this is sewed to the chair seat but one piece
remains to be managed.
The front band should be draped or folded at the corners. This fold
may be noticed at the corners of the chair seat in Fig. 55, and it
allows the band to run about the corner full and smooth. This is all
the more necessary because some stuffing is placed behind the band to
keep the band from falling in when the edge of the seat is pressed
down.
[Illustration: FIG. 55]
[Illustration: FIG. 56]
In Fig. 56 is shown the gimp. It is generally fastened with gimp
tacks, but in very fine work it is glued in place. Glueing has a
distinct advantage where the gimp must be placed around curves for
then it may run continuously rather than in a series of straight
lines between tacks, as is necessary when tacks are employed.
In Fig. 57 are shown a series of problems in upholstery; in Fig. 58,
the application of such type problems to structures of a distinctly
useful nature.
[Illustration: FIG. 57]
[Illustration: FIG. 58]
OUTLINES
GROUP I.—FIRST METHOD—UPHOLSTERING A PLAIN BOARD SURFACE.
=========================+=========================+================
TOOL PROCESSES | TOPICS FOR CLASS | PROBLEMS
| DISCUSSION |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+————————————————
Shaping stuffing: moss, | Preliminary talks on | Footstool.
tow, kapok, alva, cork | upholstering tools. | Cart.
shavings or excelsior. | Preparation of | Chest cover.
| stuffing. | Shirtwaist box.
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+ Box lid.
Stretching and tacking | Advantage of tacking |
muslin or burlap | and stretching |
cover. | goods from center |
| toward corners. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Covering with wadding or | The need of wadding |
cotton batting. | or cotton. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Attaching cover, | Different classes of |
imitation leather, | covers appropriate |
genuine leather or | for different uses. |
textiles. | Cost, durability, |
| appearance and |
| comfort. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Gimping. | Appropriate gimps for |
| different covers. |
| Nails: Metalene, |
| Perfection and |
| Leather. |
| Spacing of nails. |
| Method of folding |
| gimp at corners. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+————————————————
GROUP I.—SECOND METHOD
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+————————————————
Attaching burlap or | Advantages of hard | Leg rest.
webbing strips. | edges. | Footstool.
Forming hard edges. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Placing of stuffing. | Desirable form to seat. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Adjusting muslin. | Reason for use of |
| muslin under cover. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Placing of wadding. | Gimp or no gimp. |
Placing of cover. | |
Folding at corners. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Placing and nailing of | |
gimp. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+————————————————
GROUP II.—UPHOLSTERING A FRAMED STRUCTURE.
=========================+=========================+================
TOOL PROCESSES | TOPICS FOR CLASS | PROBLEMS
| DISCUSSION |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+————————————————
Rounding inside edges of | Advantages of rounding | Footstool.
rails. | or chamfering arrises.| Chair seat and
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+ back.
Tacking on webbing, or | Comparison of webbing | Slip seats.
Attaching board bottom.| with board bottom. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Attaching burlap. | Size of burlap to permit|
| making of hard edge. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Making hard edge. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Stuffing. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Tacking muslin over | Reasons for loose or |
stuffing. | slip tacking. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Regulating. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Covering with wadding or | |
cotton batting. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Stretching and tacking | All-over upholstery. |
outside cover. | Show wood upholstery. |
| Welt edge work. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Tacking on cambric. | Need for cambric. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+————————————————
GROUP III.—HARD-EDGE UPHOLSTERY.
=========================+=========================+================
TOOL PROCESSES | TOPICS FOR CLASS | PROBLEMS
| DISCUSSION |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+————————————————
Tacking webbing in | Preventing the clicking | Easy chair.
place, or Attaching | of springs. | Settee seats.
slats. | | Cricket seats.
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Placing springs. | Different sizes and |
| shapes of springs for |
| different uses. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Sewing springs. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Tying springs. | Importance of well tied |
| springs. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Tacking on burlap. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Placing stuffing for | Over-hang of stuffing. |
hard edge. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Tacking on light burlap. | Different methods of |
Sewing hard edge. | sewing. |
| Constant regulating. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Evening seat with double | |
stuffing and cotton. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Tacking on muslin. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Placing outside cover. | Blind sewing. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Tacking on cambric. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+————————————————
GROUP IV.—SPRING-EDGE UPHOLSTERY.
=========================+=========================+================
TOOL PROCESSES | TOPICS FOR CLASS | PROBLEMS
| DISCUSSION |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+————————————————
Attaching webbing, or | Difference when | Side chair.
Attaching slats. | compared with | Arm chair.
| hard-edge work. | Sofas and
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+ lounges.
Placing springs. | Difference in placement |
| of springs when |
| compared with |
| hard-edge work. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Attaching spring-wire | |
edge. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Tying springs. | Difference between this |
| and former work. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Placing burlap. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Stuffing. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Placing burlap over | |
stuffing. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Stitching edge. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Placing muslin. | Need of layer of cotton |
| batting when hair is |
| used for stuffing. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Attaching outside cover. | |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Sewing welt edge. | Advantages of welt edge.|
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+
Gimping. | Different methods of |
| attaching gimp. |
—————————————————————————+—————————————————————————+————————————————
INDEX
(NUMBERS REFER TO PAGES)
Brocades, 14
Burlap, 12, 16, 23
Cambric, 13, 27, 46, 61, 62
Chase Leather, 14
Chintz, 14, 15
Cricket, 46, 62
Denim, 14, 15
Fabric, 7, 8, 13, 18, 20
Footstool, 13, 16, 28, 35
Gimp, 15, 16, 20, 23, 32
Hammer, 11
Tacks, 58
Gunny, 13
Hair, 46
Cloth, 15
Hammer, Gimp, 11
Hard-edge, 17, 27, 31, 38
Italian Hemp, 15
Knot, Clove Hitch, 41
Double Slip, 45
Leather, Artificial, 14, 46, 60
Genuine, 14
Leg Rest, 17, 21, 60
Loose Cushions, 8
Marokene, 14, 16, 23, 36
Metalene, 15, 23
Mole Skin, 14
Moss, 13, 46, 54, 60
Mule Skin, 14
Muslin, 13, 16, 23
Nails, 9, 15, 16, 37
Leather, 15
Metalene, 15, 36
Perfection, 15
Needles, Curved, 11, 45, 57
Double Pointed, 11, 39, 48
Triangular Pointed, 11
Overstuffed, 52
Pad Seat, 52
Pantasote Leather, 14
Plush, 15
Queen Anne Stool, 6, 47, 50
Regulator, 11, 13, 16, 19
Reps, 15
Re-upholstery, 50, 51
Satin, 15
Scissors, 11
Seat, 17, 24, 27
Frame, 25, 26
Skewers, 11
Slip-Tack, 34, 43, 45, 61
Springs, 12, 15, 38, 53
Spring Edge Twine, 15, 39
Wire, 53, 54, 57, 63
Squabs, 8
Stitching, 15, 43, 45
Blind, 46, 47, 48, 62
Twine, 15, 38
Stools, 16, 21, 23, 28
Stuffed-Double, 46
Stuffing, 11, 12
Alva, 13, 60
Cotton Batting, 46, 60
Cork Shavings, 13, 60
Excelsior, 13, 60
Curled Horse Hair, 12, 46
Kapok, 13, 60
Moss, 13, 46, 60
Tow, 12, 16, 23, 32
Tacks, 16, 17, 23
Tapestry, 7, 14
Textiles, 7, 14, 60
Tools, 11
Tow, 12, 16, 23, 32
Tufting, 10
Twine, 15, 40
Tying Springs, 15, 53, 62, 63
Upholstery, 11, 21
Blocks, 18, 28, 31, 53, 54
Velours, 15
Velvet, 15
Wadding, 13, 16, 26, 27, 36, 60
Webbing, 11, 18
B. F. M., 11
L. M. C., 11, 12
Stretcher, 11, 25, 28
Welt Cord, 18, 57, 58
Edge, 11, 37, 57, 63