CHAPTER XIV [VIII of Vol. III]--Verdigrise River. Mr.

Glenn's Trading-house. New Species of Lizard. Neosho

or Grand River. Salt Works. Large Spider. Illinois

Creek. Ticks. Arrival at Belle Point 281

ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME XVI

Skin Lodges of Kaskaias (text cut in original) 107

"Kiawa Encampment" 196

"Kaskaia; Shienne Chief; Awappaho [Arrapaho]" 200

PART III OF JAMES'S ACCOUNT OF S. H. LONG'S

EXPEDITION, 1819-1820

Reprinted from Volumes II and III of London edition, 1823

EXPEDITION FROM PITTSBURGH TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS

[PART III]

{212} CHAPTER I {VIII}[1]

Excursion to the Summit of the Peak--Mineral Springs--Coquimbo

Owl--Encampment on the Arkansa.

At an early hour on the morning of the 13th, Lieutenant Swift,

accompanied by the guide, was despatched from camp, to measure a base

near the peak, and to make there a part of the observations requisite

for calculating its elevation. Dr. James, being furnished with four

men, two to be left at the foot of the mountain to take care of the

horses, and two to accompany him in the proposed ascent to the summit

of the peak, set off at the same time.

This detachment left the camp before sunrise, and taking the most

direct route across the plains, arrived at eleven o'clock at the base

of the mountain. Here Lieutenant Swift found a place suited to his

purpose; where, also, was a convenient spot for those who were to

ascend the mountain to leave their horses. At this place was a narrow,

woodless valley, dividing transversely several sandstone ridges, and

extending westward to the base of the peak.

After establishing their horse-camp, the detachment moved up the valley

on foot, arriving about noon at the boiling spring, where they dined on

a saddle of venison, and some bison ribs they had brought ready cooked

from camp.

The _boiling spring_ is a large and beautiful fountain of water, cool

and transparent, and aërated with carbonic acid. It rises on the brink

of a small stream, which here descends from the mountain, at the point

where the bed of this stream divides the ridge of sandstone which

rests against the base of the first {213} granitic range. The water

of the spring deposits a copious concretion of carbonate of lime,[2]

which has accumulated on every side, until it has formed a large basin

overhanging the stream; above which it is raised several feet. This

basin is of a snowy whiteness, and large enough to contain three or

four hundred gallons, and is constantly overflowing.

The spring rises from the bottom of the basin, with a rumbling noise,

discharging about equal volumes of air and of water, probably about

fifty gallons per minute; the whole kept in constant agitation. The

water is beautifully transparent; and has the sparkling appearance, the

grateful taste, and the exhilarating effect, of the most highly aërated

artificial mineral waters.

Distant a few rods from this is another spring of the same kind, which

discharges no water, its basin remaining constantly full, and air only

escaping from it. We collected some of the air from both these springs

in a box we had carried for the reception of plants; but could not

perceive it to have the least smell, or the power of extinguishing

flame, which was tested, by plunging into it lighted splinters of dry

cedar.

The temperature of the water of the larger spring at noon was 63°, the

thermometer at the same time, in the shade, stood at 68°; immersed in

the small spring, at 67°. This difference in temperature is owing to

the difference of situation, the higher temperature of the small spring

depending entirely on its constant exposure to the rays of the sun, and

to its retaining the same portion of water; while that in the large

spring is constantly replaced by a new supply.[3]

After we had dined, and hung up some provisions in a large red

cedar-tree near the spring, intending it for a supply on our return,

we took leave of Lieutenant Swift, and began to ascend the mountain.

We carried with us each a small blanket, ten {214} or twelve pounds of

bison meat, three gills of parched corn meal, and a small kettle.

The sandstone extends westward from the springs, about three hundred

yards, rising rapidly upon the base of the mountain; it is of a deep

red colour, for the most part compact and fine, but sometimes embracing

angular fragments of petrosilex and other siliceous stones, with a few

organic impressions. The granite which succeeds to this is coarse, and

of a deep red colour; some loose fragments of gneiss were seen lying

about the surface, but none in place. The granite at the base of the

mountain contains a large proportion of felspar, of the rose-coloured

variety, in imperfect cubic crystals. The mass appears to be rapidly

disintegrating, under the operation of frost and other causes,

crumbling into small masses of half an ounce weight, or less.

The ascending party found the surface in many places covered with such

quantities of this loose and crumbled granite, rolling from under their

feet, as rendered the ascent extremely difficult. We now began to

credit the assertions of the guide, who had conducted us to the foot

of the peak, and there left us, with the assurance that the whole of

the mountain to its summit was covered with loose sand and gravel; so

that, though many attempts had been made by the Indians and by hunters

to ascend it, none had ever proved successful. We passed several of

these tracts, not without some apprehension for our lives; as there was

danger, when the foothold was once lost, of sliding down, and being

thrown over precipices. After labouring with extreme fatigue over

about two miles, in which several of these dangerous places occurred,

we halted at sunset in a small cluster of fir trees. We could not,

however, find a piece of even ground large enough to lie down upon,

and were under the necessity of securing ourselves from rolling into

the brook near which we encamped by means of a pole placed against two

trees. In this situation, we {215} passed an uneasy night; and though

the mercury fell only to 54°, felt some inconvenience from cold.

On the morning of the 14th, as soon as daylight appeared, having

suspended in a tree our blankets, all our provisions, except about

three pounds of bison's flesh, and whatever articles of clothing could

be dispensed with, we continued the ascent, hoping to be able to reach

the summit of the peak, and return to the same camp in the evening.

After passing about half a mile of rugged and difficult travelling,

like that of the preceding day, we crossed a deep chasm, opening

towards the bed of the small stream we had hitherto ascended; and

following the summit of the ridge between these, found the way less

difficult and dangerous.

Having passed a level tract of several acres covered with the aspen,

poplar, a few birches, and pines, we arrived at a small stream running

towards the south, nearly parallel to the base of the conic part of the

mountain which forms the summit of the peak. From this spot we could

distinctly see almost the whole of the peak: its lower half thinly clad

with pines, junipers, and other evergreen trees; the upper, a naked

conic pile of yellowish rocks, surmounted here and there with broad

patches of snow. But the summit appeared so distant, and the ascent

so steep, that we began to despair of accomplishing the ascent and

returning on the same day.

About the small stream before mentioned, we saw an undescribed

white-flowered species of caltha, some pediculariæ, the shrubby

cinque-foil (potentilla fruticosa, Ph.) and many alpine plants. At

this point a change is observed in the character of the rock, all that

which constitutes the peak beyond containing no mica. It is a compact,

fine-grained aggregate of quartz, felspar, and hornblende; the latter

in small proportion, and sometimes wholly wanting.

The day was bright, and the air nearly calm. As we ascended rapidly,

we could perceive a manifest {216} change of temperature; and before

we reached the outskirts of the timber, a little wind was felt from

the north-east. On this part of the mountain is frequently seen the

yellow-flowered stone-crop (sedum stenopetalum, Ph.), almost the only

herbaceous plant which occurs in the most closely wooded parts of the

mountain. We found the trees of a smaller size, and more scattered in

proportion to the elevation at which they grew; and arrived at about

twelve o'clock at the limit above which none are found. This is a

defined line, encircling the peak in a part which, when seen from the

plain, appeared near the summit; but when we arrived at it, a greater

part of the whole elevation of the mountain seemed still before us.

Above the timber the ascent is steeper, but less difficult than below;

the surface being so highly inclined, that the large masses, when

loosened, roll down, meeting no obstruction until they arrive at the

commencement of the timber. The red cedar, and the flexile pine,[4]

are the trees which appear at the greatest elevation. These are small,

having thick and extremely rigid trunks; and near the commencement of

the naked part of the mountain, they have neither limbs nor bark on

that side which is exposed to the descending masses of rocks. It may

appear a contradiction to assert, that trees have grown in a situation

so exposed as to be unable [to] produce or retain bark or limbs on

one side; yet of the fact that they are now standing and living in

such a situation there can be no doubt. It is, perhaps, probable the

timber may formerly have extended to a greater elevation on the sides

of this peak than at present, so that those trees which are now on the

outskirts of the forest were formerly protected by their more exposed

neighbours.

A few trees were seen above the commencement of snow; but these are

very small, and entirely procumbent, being sheltered in the crevices

and fissures of the rock. There are also the roots of trees to be seen

at {217} some distance above the part where any are now standing.

A little above the point where the timber disappears entirely,

commences a region of astonishing beauty, and of great interest on

account of its productions. The intervals of soil are sometimes

extensive, and covered with a carpet of low but brilliantly-flowering

alpine plants. Most of these have either matted procumbent stems, or

such as, including the flower, rarely rise more than an inch in height.

In many of them the flower is the most conspicuous and the largest part

of the plant, and in all the colouring is astonishingly brilliant.

A deep blue is the prevailing colour among these flowers; and the

pentstemon erianthera, the mountain columbine (aquilegia cœrulea),

and other plants common to less elevated districts, were much more

intensely coloured than in ordinary situations. It cannot be doubted,

that the peculiar brilliancy of colouring observed in alpine plants,

inhabiting near the utmost limits of phænogamous vegetation, depends

principally upon the intensity of the light transmitted from the bright

and unobscured atmosphere of those regions, and increased by reflection

from the immense impending masses of snow. May the deep cerulean tint

of the sky have an influence in producing the corresponding colour so

prevalent in the flowers of these alpine plants? At about two o'clock

we found ourselves so much exhausted as to render a halt necessary. Mr.

Wilson, who had accompanied us as a volunteer, had been left behind

some time since, and could not now be seen in any direction. As we felt

some anxiety on his account, we halted, and endeavoured to apprize

him of our situation; but repeated calls, and the discharging of the

rifleman's piece, produced no answer. We therefore determined to wait

some time to rest, and to eat the provision we had brought, hoping, in

the meantime, he would overtake us.

{218} We halted at a place about a mile above the edge of the timber.

The stream by which we were sitting we could perceive to fall

immediately from a large body of snow, which filled a deep ravine on

the south-eastern side of the peak. Below us, on the right, were two or

three extensive patches of snow; and ice could be seen everywhere in

the crevices of the rocks.

Here, as we were sitting at our dinner, we observed several small

animals, nearly of the size of the common gray squirrel; but shorter,

and more clumsily built. They were of a dark gray colour, inclining to

brown, with a short thick head, and erect rounded ears. In habits and

appearance, they resemble the prairie dog, and are believed to be a

species of the same genus. The mouth of their burrow is usually placed

under the projection of a rock; and near these the party afterwards saw

several of the little animals watching their approach, and uttering

all the time a shrill note, somewhat like that of the ground squirrel.

Several attempts were made to procure a specimen of this animal, but

always without success, as we had no guns but such as carried a heavy

ball.

After sitting about half an hour, we found ourselves somewhat

refreshed, but much benumbed with cold. We now found it would be

impossible to reach the summit of the mountain, and return to our camp

of the preceding night, during that part of the day which remained;

but as we could not persuade ourselves to turn back, after having so

nearly accomplished the ascent, we resolved to take our chance of

spending the night on whatever part of the mountain it might overtake

us. Wilson had not yet been seen; but as no time could be lost, we

resolved to go as soon as possible to the top of the peak, and look for

him on our return. We met, as we proceeded, such numbers of unknown and

interesting plants, as to occasion much delay in collecting; {219} and

were under the mortifying necessity of passing by numbers we saw in

situations difficult of access.

As we approached the summit, these became less frequent, and at length

ceased entirely. Few cryptogamous plants are seen about any part of

the mountain; and neither these nor any others occur frequently on the

top of the peak. There is an area of ten or fifteen acres forming the

summit, which is nearly level; and on this part scarce a lichen was to

be seen. It is covered to a great depth with large splintery fragments

of a rock entirely similar to that found at the base of the peak,

except perhaps a little more compact in its structure. By removing a

few of these fragments, they were found to rest upon a bed of ice,

which is of great thickness, and may, perhaps, be as permanent as the

rocks with which it occurs.

It was about 4 o'clock P. M. when the party arrived on the

summit. In our way we had attempted to cross a large field of snow,

which occupied a deep ravine, extending down about half a mile from

the top, on the south-eastern side of the peak. This was, however,

found impassable, being covered with a thin ice, not sufficiently

strong to bear the weight of a man. We had not been long on the summit

when we were rejoined by the man who had separated from us, near the

outskirts of the timber. He had turned aside and lain down to rest, and

afterwards pursued his journey by a different route.

From the summit of the peak, the view towards the north-west and

south-west is diversified with innumerable mountains, all white with

snow; and on some of the more distant it appears to extend down to

their bases. Immediately under our feet, on the west, lay the narrow

valley of the Arkansa, which we could trace running towards the

north-west, probably more than sixty miles.

On the north side of the peak was an immense {220} mass of snow

and ice. The ravine in which it lay terminated in a woodless and

apparently fertile valley, lying west of the first great ridge, and

extending far towards the north. This valley must undoubtedly contain

a considerable branch of the Platte. In a part of it, distant probably

thirty miles, the smoke of a large fire was distinctly seen, supposed

to indicate the encampment of a party of Indians.[5]

To the east lay the great plain, rising as it receded, until in the

distant horizon it appeared to mingle with the sky. A little want of

transparency in the atmosphere, added to the great elevation from which

we saw the plain, prevented our distinguishing the small inequalities

of the surface. The Arkansa, with several of its tributaries, and some

of the branches of the Platte, could be distinctly traced as on a map,

by the line of timber along their courses.

On the south the mountain is continued, having another summit,

(supposed to be that ascended by Captain Pike,) at the distance of

eight or ten miles. This, however, falls much below the high peak in

point of elevation, being wooded quite to its top. Between the two lies

a small lake, apparently a mile long, and half a mile wide, discharging

eastward into the Boiling-spring creek. A few miles farther towards the

south, the range containing these two peaks terminates abruptly.[6]

The weather was calm and clear while the detachment remained on the

peak; but we were surprised to observe the air in every direction

filled with such clouds of grasshoppers, as partially to obscure the

day. They had been seen in vast numbers about {221} all the higher

parts of the mountain, and many had fallen upon the snow and perished.

It is, perhaps, difficult to assign the cause which induces these

insects to ascend to those highly elevated regions of the atmosphere.

Possibly they may have undertaken migrations to some remote district;

but there appears not the least uniformity in the direction of their

movements.[7] They extended upwards from the summit of the mountain

to the utmost limit of vision; and as the sun shown brightly, they

could be seen by the glittering of their wings, at a very considerable

distance.

About all the woodless parts of the mountain, and particularly on the

summit, numerous tracks were seen, resembling those of the common deer,

but most probably have been those of the animal called the big horn.

The skulls and horns of these animals we had repeatedly seen near the

licks and saline springs at the foot of the mountain, but they are

known to resort principally about the most elevated and inaccessible

places.

The party remained on the summit only about half an hour; in this time

the mercury fell to 42°, the thermometer hanging against the side of

a rock, which in all the early part of the day had been exposed to

the direct rays of the sun. At the encampment of the main body in the

plains, a corresponding thermometer stood in the middle of the day at

96°, and did not fall below 80° until a late hour in the evening.

Great uniformity was observed in the character of the rock about all

the upper part of the mountain. {222} It is a compact, indestructible

aggregate of quartz and felspar, with a little hornblende, in very

small particles. Its fracture is fine, granular, or even; and the

rock exhibits a tendency to divide when broken into long, somewhat

splintery fragments. It is of a yellowish brown colour, which does

not perceptibly change by long exposure to the air. It is undoubtedly

owing to the close texture and the impenetrable firmness of this rock

that so few lichens are found upon it. For the same reason it is little

subject to disintegration by the action of frost. It is not improbable

that the splintery fragments, which occur in such quantities on all the

higher parts of the peak, may owe their present form to the agency of

lightning. No other cause seems adequate to the production of so great

an effect.

Near the summit some large detached crystals of felspar, of a pea-green

colour, were collected; also large fragments of transparent, white and

smoky quartz, and an aggregate of opaque white quartz, with crystals of

hornblende.

At about five in the afternoon the party began to descend, and a little

before sunset arrived at the commencement of the timber; but before

we reached the small stream at the bottom of the first descent, we

perceived we had missed our way. It was now become so dark as to render

an attempt to proceed extremely hazardous; and as the only alternative,

we kindled a fire, and laid ourselves down upon the first spot of level

ground we could find. We had neither provisions nor blankets; and our

clothing was by no means suitable for passing the night in so bleak

and inhospitable a situation. We could not, however, proceed without

imminent danger from precipices; and by the aid of a good fire, and

no ordinary degree of fatigue, found ourselves able to sleep during a

greater part of the night.

15th. At day break on the following morning, the thermometer stood

at 38°. As we had few comforts to leave, we quitted our camp as soon

as {223} the light was sufficient to enable us to proceed. We had

travelled about three hours when we discovered a dense column of smoke

rising from a deep ravine on the left hand. As we concluded this

could be no other than the smoke of the encampment where we had left

our blankets and provisions, we descended directly towards it. The

fire had spread and burnt extensively among the leaves, dry grass,

and small timber, and was now raging over an extent of several acres.

This created some apprehension, lest the smoke might attract the

notice of any Indians who should be at that time in the neighbourhood,

and who might be tempted by the weakness of the party to offer some

molestation. But we soon discovered a less equivocal cause of regret in

the loss of our _cache_ of provisions, blankets, clothing, &c. which

had not escaped the conflagration. Most of our baggage was destroyed;

but out of the ruins we collected a beggarly breakfast, which we ate,

notwithstanding its meanness, with sufficient appetite. We chose a

different route for the remaining part of the descent from the one

taken in going up, and by that means avoided a part of the difficulty

arising from the crumbled granite; but this was nearly compensated by

the increased numbers of yuccas and prickly pears.

We arrived a little after noon at the boiling spring, where we indulged

freely in the use of its highly aërated and exhilarating waters. In

the bottom of both these springs a great number of beads and other

small articles of Indian ornament were found, having unquestionably

been left there as sacrifices or presents to the springs, which are

regarded with a sort of veneration by the savages. Bijeau assured us he

had repeatedly taken beads and other ornaments from these springs, and

sold them to the same savages who had thrown them in.[8]

A large and much frequented road passes the springs, and enters the

mountains, running to the north of the high peak. It is travelled

principally {224} by the bisons, sometimes also by the Indians; who

penetrate here to the Columbia.[9]

The men who had been left at the horse-camp about a mile below the

springs, had killed several deer, and had a plentiful supply of

provisions. Here the detachment dined; then mounting our horses, we

proceeded towards the encampment of the main body, where we arrived

a little after dark, having completed our excursion within the time

prescribed.

Among the plants collected in this excursion, several appear to be

undescribed. Many of them are strictly alpine, being confined to the

higher parts of the mountain, above the commencement of snow.

Most of the timber which occurs on any part of the mountain is

evergreen, consisting of several species of abies, among which may be

enumerated the balsam fir (A. balsamea, Ph.); the hemlock, white, red,

and black spruce (A. canadensis, A. alba, A. rubra, and A. nigra); the

red cedar, and common juniper; and a few pines. One of these, which

appears to have been hitherto unnoticed in North America, has, like the

great white or Weymouth pine, five leaves in a fascicle; but in other

respects there is little resemblance between them. The leaves are short

and rather rigid; the sheaths which surround their bases short and

lacerated; the strobiles erect, composed of large unarmed scales, being

somewhat smaller than those of P. rigida, but similar in shape, and

exuding a great quantity of resin. The branches, which are covered with

leaves chiefly at the ends, are numerous and recurved, inclining to

form a dense and large top; they are also remarkably flexile, feeling

in the hand somewhat like those of the dirca palustris, L. From this

circumstance, the specific name, flexilis, has been proposed for this

tree; which is, in several respects, remarkably contrasted with the P.

rigida. It inhabits the arid plains subjacent to the Rocky Mountains,

and extends up their sides to the region of perpetual frost. The {225}

fruit of the pinus flexilis is eaten by the Indians and the French

hunters, as that of another species of the same genus is eaten by the

inhabitants of some parts of Europe.

The creek on which the party encamped during the three days occupied in

making the excursion above detailed, is called Boiling-spring creek,

having one of its principal sources in the beautiful spring already

described.[10] It is skirted with a narrow margin of cotton-wood and

willow trees; and its banks produce a small growth of rushes, on which

our horses subsisted principally, while we lay encamped here. This

plant, the common rush (equisetum hyemale, Ph.), found in every part of

the United States, is eaten with avidity by horses, and is often met

with in districts where little grass is to be had. When continued for a

considerable time its use proves deleterious.

The recent track of a grizzly bear was observed near the camp; and at

no great distance one of those animals was seen and shot at by one of

the hunters, but not killed.

In the timber along the creek, the sparrow-hawk, mocking-bird, robin,

red-head woodpecker, Lewis' woodpecker, dove, winter wren, towhe,

bunting, yellow-breasted chat, and several other birds were seen.

Orbicular lizards were found about this camp, and had been once or

twice before noticed near the base of the mountains.

A smoke, supposed to be that of an Indian encampment, was seen

rising from a part of the mountains, at a great distance towards the

north-west. It had been our constant practice, since we left the

Missouri, to have sentinels stationed about all our encampments, and

whenever we were not on the march by day, and until nine o'clock in the

evening; it was the duty of one of the three Frenchmen to reconnoitre

at a distance from camp, in every direction, and to report immediately

when any thing {226} should be discovered indicating that Indians were

in the vicinity. Precautions of this kind are necessary to prevent

surprisal, and invariably are practised by the Indians of the west,

both at their villages and on their march.

On the 14th, Lieutenant Swift returned to camp, having performed the

duties on which he was sent. A base was measured near the camp, and

observations taken for ascertaining the elevation of the peak.

Complete sets of observations for latitude and longitude were taken,

which gave 38° 18′ 19″ north, and 105° 39′ 44″ west from

Greenwich, or 28° 39′ 45″ from Washington, as the position of our

camp. The bearing of the Peak from this point is north 67° west, and

the distance about twenty-five miles.[11]

In all the prairie-dog villages we had passed small owls had been

observed moving briskly about, but they had hitherto eluded all our

attempts to take them. One was here caught, and on examination, found

to be the species denominated coquimbo, or burrowing owl, (strix

cunicularia.) This fellow-citizen of the prairie-dog, unlike its grave

and recluse congeners, is of a social disposition, and does not retire

from the light of the sun, but endures the strongest mid-day glare of

that luminary, and is in all respects a diurnal bird. It stands high

upon its legs, and flies with the rapidity of the hawk. The coquimbo

owl, both in Chili and St. Domingo, agreeably to the accounts of

Molina and Vieillot, digs large burrows for its habitations, and for

the purposes of incubation; the former author gives us to understand

that the burrow penetrates the earth to a considerable depth, whilst

Vieillot informs us that in St. Domingo, the depth is about two

feet.[12]

With us the owl never occurred but in the prairie-dog villages,

sometimes in a small flock much scattered, and often perched on

different hillocks, at a distance deceiving the eye with the appearance

of {227} the prairie-dog, itself, in an erect posture. They are not

shy, but readily admit the hunter within gun-shot; but on his too near

approach, a part or the whole of them rise upon the wing, uttering

a note very like that of the prairie-dogs, and alight at a short

distance, or continue their flight beyond the view.

The burrows into which we have seen the owl descend, resembled in all

respects those of the prairie-dog, leading us to suppose, either that

they were common, though, perhaps not friendly occupants of the same

burrow, or that the owl was the exclusive tenant of a burrow gained by

right of conquest. But it is at the same time possible, that, as in

Chili, the owl may excavate his own tenement.

From the remarkable coincidence of note between these two widely

distinct animals, we might take occasion to remark the probability of

the prairie-dog being an unintentional tutor to the young owl, did we

not know that this bird utters the same sounds in the West Indies,

where the prairie-dog is not known to exist.

It may be that more than a single species of diurnal owl has been

confounded under the name of _cunicularia_, as Vieillot states his bird

to be somewhat different from that of Molina; and we cannot but observe

that the eggs of the bird described by the latter are spotted with

yellow, whilst those of the former are immaculate.

As our specimens do not in all respects correspond with the

descriptions by the above-mentioned authors, of the Coquimbo owl, we

have thought proper to subjoin such particulars as seem necessary to be

noted, in addition to the description already given by those authors.

The general colour is a light burnt brown spotted with white; the

larger feathers five or six-banded with white, each band more or

less widely interrupted by the shaft, and their immediate margins

darker than the other portions of the feathers; the {228} tips of

these feathers are white or whitish; the exterior primary feather is

serrated, shorter than the three succeeding ones, and equal in length

to the fifth; the bill is tinged with yellow on the ridges of both

mandibles; the tarsi and feet distinctly granulated, the former naked

behind, furnished before, near the base, with dense, short feathers,

which, towards the toes, become less crowded, and assume the form of

single hairs; those on the toes are absolutely setaceous and scattered;

the lobes beneath the toes are large and granulated.

On the plains about our encampment, were numerous natural mounds,

greatly resembling some of the artificial works so common in the

central portions of the great valley of the Mississippi. About the

summits of these mounds, were numerous petrifactions, which were found

to be almost exclusively casts of bivalve shells approaching the genus

cytherea, and usually from one half to one and an half inches in width.

On the evening of the fifteenth, finding all our stock of meat injured

by too long keeping, four men were sent out on horseback to hunt. At

the distance of six miles from camp, they found a solitary bison,

which they killed, but concluding from its extreme leanness and the

ill-savour of the flesh, that the animal was diseased, they took no

part of it. On the following morning they returned, bringing nothing.

We were now reduced to the necessity of feeding on our scanty allowance

of a gill of parched maize per day to each man, this being the utmost

that our limited stores would afford.

On the 16th of July, we moved from our encampment on Boiling-spring

creek, in a south-western direction to the Arkansa. This ride of

twenty-eight miles, which we finished without having once dismounted

from our horses, occupied about twelve hours of a calm, sultry day, in

every respect like the preceding, in which the thermometer in the shade

had {229} ranged from 90 to 100°. Our route lay across a tract of low

but somewhat broken sandstone, of an uncommonly slaty structure. It

is fine-grained, with an argillaceous cement, and of a light gray or

yellowish white colour. It contains thin beds of bituminous clay-slate;

and we saw scattered on the surface some small crystals of selenite.

It is traversed by numerous deep ravines, in which at this time, not

a drop of water was to be found. The soil is scanty, and of incurable

barrenness. The texture of the rock is so loose and porous as to unfit

it for retaining any portion of the water which falls upon it in rains.

A few dwarfish cedars and pines are scattered over a surface consisting

of a loose dusty soil, intermixed with thin lamellar fragments of

sandstone, and nearly destitute of grass or herbage of any kind. Our

sufferings from thirst, heat, and fatigue, were excessive, and were

aggravated by the almost unlimited extent of the prospect before us,

which promised nothing but a continuation of the same dreary and

disgusting scenery. Late in the afternoon we arrived at the brink of

the precipice which divides the high plains from the valley of the

Arkansa; this is here narrow, and so deeply sunk in the horizontal

sandstone, that although there are trees of considerable size growing

along the river, they do not rise to the level of the surface of the

great plain, and from a little distance on either side, the valley

is entirely hid. There our thirst and impatience were for some time

tantalized with the view of the cool and verdant valley and copious

stream of the Arkansa, while we were searching up and down for a place

where we could descend the precipice.

We at length found a rugged ravine, down which we with some difficulty

wound our way to the base of the cliff, where lay a beautiful level

plain, having some scattered cotton-wood and willow trees, and

affording good pasture for our horses. Here we encamped, and the

remainder of the afternoon was {230} spent in making preparations

to despatch a small party up the Arkansa to the mountains on the

succeeding day.

A small doe was killed near camp, which, though extremely lean, proved

an important addition to our supply of provisions.

The place where we encamped was supposed to have been near where Pike's

block-house formerly stood, but we sought in vain for the traces of

anything resembling the work of a white man.[13]

{231} CHAPTER II {IX}

A Detachment from the Exploring Party Ascend the Arkansa to the

Mountains--Bell's Springs--Descent of the Arkansa--Grizzly Bear.

On the morning of the 17th Captain Bell, with Dr. James and two men,

took their departure, proposing to ascend the Arkansa to the mountains.

They were furnished with provisions for two days, according to the

scanty allowance to which we were all reduced. The river valley was

found so narrow, and so obstructed by the timber and the windings

of the stream, as greatly to impede the travelling; we therefore

resolved to leave it, and pursue our journey in the open plain at a

distance from the river. The course of the Arkansa, for the first

twenty miles from the mountains, is but little south of east. It

enters the plain at the extremity of an extensive amphitheatre, formed

by the continued chain of the mountains on the west and north-west,

and by the projecting spur which contains the high peak on the east.

This semicircular area is about thirty miles in length from north

to south, and probably twenty wide at its southern extremity. The

mountains which bound it on the west are high, but at this time had

little snow on them. The surface of the area is an almost unvaried

plain, and is based upon the stratum of argillaceous sandstone. Near

the base of the mountain the same sandstone is observed, resting in

an inclined position against the primitive rocks. It forms a range

like that already mentioned, when speaking of the mountains at the

Platte, separated from the primitive by a narrow secluded valley. On

entering this valley we found {232} the recent trace of a large party

of Indians, travelling with skin lodges, who appeared to have passed

within a very short time. This trace we followed, until we found it

entered the mountains in the valley of a small stream which descends

to the Arkansa from the north-east. This we left on the east, and

traversing a rough and broken tract of sandstone hills, arrived, after

a toilsome day's journey of about thirty miles, at the spot where the

Arkansa leaves the mountains.

Here we found several springs, whose water is impregnated with

muriate of soda and other salts. They rise near each other, in a

small marshy tract of ground, occupying the narrow valley of the

river, at the point where it traverses the inclined sandstone ridge.

Very little water flows from them, and the evaporation of this

has left a crystalline incrustation, whitening the surface of the

surrounding marsh. The springs are small excavations, which may

perhaps have been dug by the Indians or by white hunters. They appear

to remain constantly full; they all contain muriate of soda, and

the smell of sulphuretted hydrogen is perceptible at considerable

distance from them. They differ in taste a little from each other,

hence the account given of them by the hunters, that one is sour,

another sweet, a third bitter, and so on. One contains so much fixed

air as to give it some pungency, but the water of all of them is

unpalatable. The sweetish metallic taste observed in the water of one

or two, appears to depend on an impregnation of sulphate of iron.

The sulphates of magnesia and soda will probably be found to exist

in these springs; if their water should hereafter be analysed, they

may also be found to possess some active medicinal properties. They

are seven in number, and have received the name of Bell's Springs, in

compliment to their discoverer. Though the country around them abounds

with bisons, deer, &c. they do not appear to be frequented, {233} as

most saline springs are, by these or other herbivorous animals.[14]

It was near sunset when Captain Bell and his party arrived at the

springs, and being much exhausted by their laborious march, they

immediately laid themselves down to rest under the open canopy,

deferring their examinations for the following morning.

The sandstone near the springs is hard, though rather coarse, and of a

dark gray or brownish yellow colour. In ascending the Arkansa on the

ensuing morning, we found the rock to become more inclined, and of a

redder colour, as we approached the primitive, until, at about half

a mile from the springs, it is succeeded by the almost perpendicular

gneiss rock, which appears here at the base of the first range of the

mountains. We have noticed that this particular spot is designated,

in the language of hunters, as "the place where the Arkansa _comes

out_ of the mountains;" and it must be acknowledged, the expression

is not entirely inapplicable. The river pours with great impetuosity

and violence through a deep and narrow fissure in the gneiss rock,

which rises so abruptly on both sides to such a height, as to oppose

an impassable barrier to all further progress. According to the

delineation of Pike's route, upon the map which accompanies his work,

he must have entered the mountains at this place; but no corroboration

can be derived from his journal. It appears almost incredible that

he should have passed by this route, and have neglected to mention

the extreme difficulty which must have attended the undertaking. The

detached party returned to the encampment of the main body on the 18th.

The immediate valley of the Arkansa, near the mountains, is bounded

by high cliffs of inclined sandstone. At a short distance below these

disappear, and a sloping margin of alluvial earth extends on each side

to the distance of several miles. Somewhat farther down horizontal

sandstone appears, confining {234} the valley to a very narrow space,

and bounding it within perpendicular precipices on each side. Seven

miles from the mountains, on the left hand side of the Arkansa, is

a remarkable mass of sandstone rocks, resembling a large pile of

architectural ruins.

From this point the bearing of James's Peak[15] was found to be due

north.

The Arkansa valley, between our encampment of the 16th and the

mountains, a distance of about thirty miles, has a meagre and gravelly

soil, sustaining a growth of small cotton-wood trees, rushes, and

coarse grass: above the rocky bluffs, on each side, spreads a dreary

expanse of almost naked sand, intermixed with clay enough to prevent

its drifting with the wind, but not enough to give it fertility. It is

arid and sterile, bearing only a few dwarfish cedars, and must for ever

remain desolate.

During the time of Captain Bell's absence on the excursion above

detailed, observations were made at camp for latitude, longitude, &c.,

and all the party were busy in their appropriate pursuits. Among the

animals taken here was the four-lined squirrel, (S. 4-vittatus, Say)

a very small and very handsome species, very similar in its dorsal

markings to the getulus, L.; but as far as we can judge from the

description and figures of the latter species by Buffon,[16] our animal

is distinguished by its striped head, less rounded ears, and much less

bushy, and not striated and banded tail, and by its smaller size. The

getulus is also said to have no thumb wart.

It is an inhabitant of the Rocky Mountains about the sources of the

Arkansa and Platte. It does not seem to ascend trees by choice, but

nestles in holes and on edges of the rocks. We did not observe it to

have cheek-pouches.

Its nest is composed of a most extraordinary quantity of the burrs of

the xanthium branches, and other portions of the large upright cactus,

small {235} branches of pine-trees and other vegetable productions,

sufficient in some instances to fill the body of an ordinary cart. What

the object of so great, and apparently so superfluous an assemblage of

rubbish may be, we are at a loss to conjecture; we do not know what

peculiarly dangerous enemy it may be intended to exclude by so much

labour.

Their principal food, at least at this season, is the seeds of the

pine, which they readily extract from the cones.[17]

There is also another species[18] inhabiting about the mountains,

where it was first observed by those distinguished travellers, Lewis

and Clarke, on their expedition to the Pacific Ocean. It is allied to

the Sc. striatus, and belongs to the same subgenus (tamias illig.)

but it is of a somewhat larger stature, entirely destitute of the

vertebral line, and is further distinguished by the lateral lines

commencing before the humerus, where they are broadest by the longer

nails of the anterior feet, and by the armature of the thumb tubercle.

It certainly cannot with propriety be regarded as a variety of the

striatus, and we are not aware that the latter species is subject to

vary to any remarkable degree in this country. But the species to

which, in the distribution of its colours, it is most closely allied,

is unquestionably the Sc. bilineatus of Geoffroy.[19] A specimen is

preserved in the Philadelphia Museum.

The cliff swallow[20] is here very frequent, as well as in all the

rocky country near the mountains. This species attaches its nest in

great numbers to the rocks in dry situations, under projecting ledges.

The nest is composed of mud, and is hemispherical, with the entrance

near the top somewhat resembling a chymist's retort, flattened on one

side, and with the neck broken off for the entrance. This entrance,

which is perfectly rounded sometimes, projects a little and turns

downward. It is an active bird, flying about the vicinity of the nest

in every direction, {236} like the barn swallow. In many of the nests

we found young hatched, and in others only eggs.

A fine species of serpent[21] was brought into camp by one of the men.

It is new, and seems to be peculiar to this region.

A very beautiful species of emberiza[22] was caught; it is rather

smaller than the indigo bunting, (emberiza cyanea) with a note entirely

dissimilar. It was observed to be much in the grass, rarely alighting

on bushes or trees.

We also captured a rattle-snake,[23] which, like the tergeminus, we

have found to inhabit a barren soil, and to frequent the villages of

the arctomys of the prairie; but its range appeared to us confined

chiefly to the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains. Its rattle is

proportionally much larger than that of the species just mentioned,

and the head is destitute of large plates. It seems, by the number of

plates and scales, to be allied to the atracaudatus of Bosc and Daud,

but their description induces the conclusion that their species is

entirely white beneath.[24] It is also allied to the crotalus durissus,

L. (C. rhombifer, Beaur.), but it is smaller, and the dorsal spots are

more rounded. A specimen is placed in the Philadelphia Museum.

The only specimens of organic reliquiæ from this vicinity, which

we have been so fortunate as to preserve, are very indistinct in

their characters, and are only impressions in the gray sandstone.

One of them appears to have been a phytoid millepore, and the other

a sub-equilateral bivalve, which may possibly have been a mactra. It

is suborbicular, and its surface is marked by concentric grooves or

undulations. At a previous encampment numerous fragments of shells, of

a dusky colour, occurred in the same variety of sandstone, and amongst

these is an entire valve of a small species of ostrea, of a shape

very like that of a pinna, and less than half an inch in length. We

have a specimen, from another {237} locality, of a very dark coloured

compact, and very fœtid impure limestone, containing still more

blackish fragments of bivalves, one of which presents the form of a

much arcuated mytillus? but as the back of the valve only is offered to

examination, it may be a chama, but it seems to be perfectly destitute

of sculpture.

Another specimen from the mountains near the Platte river, is a reddish

brick-coloured petrosiliceous mass, containing casts and impressions of

a grooved terebratula.

Hunters were kept out during the day on the 17th, but killed nothing.

At evening they were sent out on horseback, but did not return till

3 P. M. on the following day. They had descended the river

twelve miles, finding little game. They had killed one deer, one

old turkey with her young brood of six. This supply proved highly

acceptable as we had for some time been confined almost entirely to

our small daily allowance of corn meal. At the commencement of our

tour we had taken a small supply of sea-biscuit. At first these were

distributed one to each man three times per day, afterwards two, then

one for two, and then one for three days, till our stock of bread was

so nearly exhausted, that it was thought proper to reserve the little

that remained for the use of the sick, should any unfortunately require

it. We then began upon our parched maize, which proved an excellent

substitute for bread. This was issued at first at the rate of one

pint per day for four men, no distinction being made in this or any

other case between the officers and gentlemen of the party, and the

citizens and soldiers attached to it. When we arrived at the Arkansa,

about one-third part of our supply of this article was exhausted, and

no augmentation of the daily issues could be allowed, although our

supplies of meat had been for some time inadequate to the consumption

of the party.

{238} We had a little coffee, tea, and sugar, but these were reserved

as hospital stores; our three gallons of salt were expended. We now

depended entirely upon hunting for our subsistence, as we had done

for meat ever since we left the Pawnee villages, our pork having

been entirely consumed before we arrived at that place. We, however,

apprehended little want of meat after we should have left the

mountains, as we believed there would be plenty of bisons and other

game upon the plains over which we were to travel.

At 2 o'clock P. M. on the eighteenth, rain began to fall which

continued during the remainder of the day, and made it impossible for

us to complete the observations we had begun.

The Arkansa, from the mountains to the place of our encampment, has

an average breadth of about sixty yards, it is from three to five

feet deep, and the current rapid. At the mountains, the water was

transparent and pure, but soon after entering the plains it becomes

turbid and brackish.

July 19th. This morning we turned our backs upon the mountains, and

began to move down the Arkansa. It was not without a feeling of

something like regret, that we found our long contemplated visit to

these grand and interesting objects, was now at an end. One thousand

miles of dreary and monotonous plain lay between us, and the enjoyments

and indulgences of civilized countries. This we were to traverse in the

heat of summer, but the scarcity of game about the mountains rendered

our immediate departure necessary.

A large and beautiful animal[25] of the lizard kind (belonging to the

genus ameiva) was noticed in this day's ride. It very much resembles

the lacerta ameiva, as figured and described by Lacepede,[26] but the

tail is proportionably much longer. Its movements were so extremely

rapid that it was with much difficulty we were able to capture a few of

them.

{239} We had proceeded about eight or ten miles from our camp, when we

observed a very considerable change in the character both of the river

and its valley, the former becoming wider, less rapid, and filled with

numerous islands; the latter bounded by sloping sandhills, instead

of perpendicular precipices. Here the barren cedar-ridges, formerly

mentioned, are succeeded by still more desolate plains, with scarce

a green or a living thing upon them, except here and there a tuft of

grass, an orbicular lizard, basking on the scorching sand, a solitary

pimelia, a blaps, or a galeodes. Among the few stinted and withered

grapes, we distinguished a small cespitose species of agrestis, and

several others which are thought to be undescribed. Near the river,

and in spots of uncommon fertility, the unicorn plant, (martynia

proboscidea, Ph.) was growing in considerable perfection. This plant,

which is sometimes cultivated in the gardens, where it is known by the

name of cuckold's horns, is a native of the Platte and Arkansa, and

is occasionally seen in every part of the open country from St. Louis

westward to the mountains.

A little before noon, we crossed a small stream which was called Castle

Rock creek, from a remarkable pile of naked rocks, and halted for

dinner on the bank of the river.[27]

In the morning, Mr. Peale and two hunters had taken a different route

from the remainder of the party, hoping to meet with game. They arrived

at a small grove of timber, where it was thought deer might be found;

they therefore left their horses in care of one of the hunters, and

entered the wood on foot. The man had been left alone but a short

time, when he discovered a large grizzly bear (ursus horribilis, Ord.)

approaching rapidly towards him, and without staying to make any

inquiry into the intentions of the animal, mounted his horse and fled.

This animal is widely distinct from any known {240} species of bear,

by the essential character of the elongated anterior claws, and

rectilinear or slightly arcuated figure of its facial profile. In

general appearance it may be compared to the alpine bear, (U. arctus),

and particularly to the Norwegian variety. The claws, however, of these

appear to be of the usual form and not elongated, and the facial space

included between the eyes is deeply indented; they also differ in their

manners, and climb trees, which the grizzly bear is never known to do.

Lewis and Clarke frequently saw and killed these bears during their

celebrated expedition across the continent. They mention one which was

nine feet long from the nose to the tip of the tail. The forefoot of

another was nine inches across, its hind foot eleven and three quarter

inches long, exclusive of the talons, and seven inches wide. The talons

of a third were six and one-fourth inches long.

They will not always attack, even when wounded. "As they fired, he did

not attempt to attack, but fled with a most tremendous roar, and such

was its extraordinary tenacity of life, that although he had five balls

passed through his lungs, and five other wounds, he swam more than half

across the river to a sand-bar, and survived twenty minutes. He weighed

between five or six hundred pounds, at least, and measured eight feet

seven and a half inches from the nose to the extremity of the hind

feet."--_Lewis and Clarke._

One lived two hours after having been shot through the centre of his

lungs, and whilst in this state, he prepared for himself a bed in the

earth two feet deep and five feet long, after running a mile and a

half. The fleece and skin were a heavy burden for two men, and the oil

amounted to eight gallons.

Another shot through the heart, ran at his usual pace nearly a quarter

of a mile, before he fell.

This species, they further inform us, in all its variations {241} of

colouring, is called hohhost by the Chopunnish Indians.[28] These

travellers mention another species of bear, which seems to be related

to the alpine bear, and which is most probably a new species. It climbs

trees, and is known to the Chopunnish Indians by the name of Yackak.

They also inform us, that the copulating season occurs about the 15th

of June.[29]

The Indians of the Missouri sometimes go to war in small parties

against the grizzly bear, and trophies obtained from his body are

highly esteemed, and dignify the fortunate individual who obtains them.

We saw, on the necks of many of their warriors, necklaces, composed

of the long fore-claws separated from the foot, tastefully arranged

in a radiating manner; and one of the band of Pawnee warriors, that

encountered a detachment of our party near the Kanza village, was

ornamented with the entire skin of the fore-foot, with the claws

remaining upon it, suspended on his breast.

It is not a little remarkable that the grizzly bear, which was

mentioned at a very early period, by Lahontan,[30] and subsequently

by several writers, is not, even at this day, established in the

zoological works as distinct species; that it is perfectly distinct

from any described species, our description will prove. From the

concurrent testimony of those who have seen the animal in its native

country, and who have had an opportunity of observing its manners, it

is, without doubt, the most daring and truly formidable animal that

exists in the United States. He frequently pursues and attacks hunters;

and no animal, whose swiftness or art is not superior to his own, can

evade him. He kills the bison, and drags the ponderous carcass to a

distance to devour at his leisure, as the calls of hunger may influence

him.

The grizzly bear is not exclusively carnivorous, as has by some persons

been imagined; but also, and perhaps in a still greater degree, derives

nourishment {242} from vegetables, both fruits and roots; the latter he

digs up by means of his long fore-claws.

That they formerly inhabited the Atlantic states, and that they were

then equally formidable to the Indians, we have some foundation for

belief in the tradition of the Delaware Indians, respecting the big

naked bear; the last one of which they believe formerly existed east of

the Hudson river, and which Mr. Heckewelder[31] assures us, is often

arraigned by the Indians before the minds of their crying children, to

frighten them to quietness.

Governor Clinton, in the notes appended to his learned _Introductory

Discourse_,[32] says, "Dixon, the Indian trader, told a friend of mine,

that this animal had been seen fourteen feet long; that notwithstanding

its ferocity, it has been sometimes domesticated; and that an Indian

belonging to a tribe on the head waters of the Mississippi, had one

in a reclaimed state, which he sportively directed to go into a canoe

belonging to another tribe of Indians then about returning from a

visit. The bear obeyed, and was struck by an Indian; being considered

one of the family, this was deemed an insult, was resented accordingly,

and produced a war between these nations."

A half-grown specimen was kept chained in the yard of the Missouri

fur-company, near Engineer Cantonment; last winter he was fed chiefly

on vegetable food, as it was observed that he became furious when too

plentifully supplied with animal fare. He was in continual motion

during the greater part of the day, pacing backwards and forwards to

the extent of his chain. His attendants ventured to play with him,

though always in a reserved manner, fearful of trusting him too far

or placing themselves absolutely within his grasp. He several times

broke loose from his chain; on which occasions he would manifest {243}

the utmost joy, running about the yard in every direction, rearing up

on his hind-feet, and capering about. I was present at one of these

exhibitions; the squaws and children belonging to the establishment

ran precipitately to their huts, and closed the doors. He appeared

much delighted with his temporary freedom; he ran to the dogs who were

straying about the yard, but they avoided him. In his round he came to

me; and rearing up, placed his paws on my breast. Wishing to rid myself

of so rough a playfellow, I turned him round; upon which he ran down

the bank of the river, plunged into the water, and swam about for some

time.

Mr. J. Dougherty has had several narrow escapes from the grizzly bear.

He was once hunting with a companion on one of the upper tributaries

to the Missouri: he heard the report of his companion's rifle; and

looking round, beheld him at a little distance, endeavouring to escape

from one of these bears, which he had wounded as it was advancing

on him. Mr. D., attentive only to the preservation of his friend,

immediately hastened to divert the attention and pursuit of the bear

to himself, and arrived within rifle-shot distance just in time to

effect his generous object. He lodged his ball in the animal, and was

obliged to fly in his turn; whilst his friend, relieved from imminent

danger, prepared for another onset, by charging his piece, with which

he again wounded the bear, and relieved Mr. D. from pursuit. In this

most hazardous encounter neither of them were injured, and the bear was

fortunately destroyed.

Several hunters were pursued by a grizzly bear that gained rapidly

upon them. A boy belonging to the party, who possessed less speed than

his companions, seeing the bear at his heels, fell with his face to

the soil; the bear reared up on his hind-feet over the boy, looked

down for a moment upon him, then bounded over him in pursuit of the

fugitives.

A hunter, just returned from a solitary excursion {244} to the Qui

Court river, informed me at Engineer cantonment, that going one morning

to examine his traps, he was pursued by a bear, and had merely time to

get into a small tree, when the bear passed beneath him; and without

halting, or even looking up, passed on at the same pace.

Another hunter received a blow from the fore-paw of one of these

animals, which carried away his eye and cheek-bone.

In proof of the great muscular power with which this animal is endowed,

a circumstance related to us by Mr. J. Dougherty may be stated. He shot

down a bison; and leaving the carcass to obtain assistance to butcher

it, he was surprised on his return to find that it had been dragged

entire, to a considerable distance, by one of these bears, and was now

lodged in a concavity of the earth, which the animal had scooped out

for its reception.

Notwithstanding the formidable character of this bear, we have not

made use of any precautions against their attacks; and although they

have been several times prowling about us in the night, they have not

evinced any disposition to attack us at that season.

They appear to be more readily intimidated by the voice, than by the

appearance of men.

Some grizzly bears were brought, when very young, from the country of

the Sioux by Lieutenant Pike, and were presented to the Philadelphia

Museum. They were kept several years in that splendid institution,

secured in a strong cage; during which time they gradually increased

in size, until at length they became dangerous from their strength and

unsubdued ferocity, and it was judged proper to prepare them for the

cabinet. From these specimens our description is chiefly taken.[33]

{245} CHAPTER III {X}

Natural Mounds--Kaskaia Indian and Squaw--Preparations for a

Division of the Party--Sandstones of the High Plains South of the

Arkansa--Fletz Trap Formation.

In the afternoon of the 19th of July we passed the mouth of the river

St. Charles, called by Pike the Third Fork, which enters the Arkansa

from the south-west. It is about twenty yards wide; and receives,

eight miles above its confluence, the Green Horn creek, a small stream

from the south-west. The Green Horn rises in the mountains, and passes

between the Spanish peaks into the plains. These two peaks had been

for several days visible, standing close to each other, and appearing

entirely insulated. If they are not completely so, the other parts

of the same range fall far below them in point of elevation. They

are of a sharp conic form, and their summits are white with snow at

midsummer.[34]

This day we travelled twenty-five miles, the general direction of

our course being a little south of east, and encamped at five P.

M. in a grassy point on the north side of the river. The soil of

the islands and the immediate valley of the river were found somewhat

more fertile than above. Immediately after encamping, the hunters were

sent out, who soon returned with two deers and a turkey.

In the evening the altitude of Antares was taken. Throughout the night

we were much annoyed by mosquitos, the first we had met for some weeks

in sufficient numbers to be troublesome.

July 20th. We left our encampment on the following morning at five, the

weather warm and fair. {246} Soon afterwards we passed the mouth of a

creek on the south side, which our guide informed us is called by the

Spaniards Wharf creek, probably from the circumstance of its washing

the base of numerous perpendicular precipices of moderate height, which

is said to be the case. It is the stream designated in Pike's map as

the Second Fork. A party of hunters in the employ of Choteau, who

were taken prisoners by the Spaniards in the month of May, 1817, were

conducted up this creek to the mountains, thence across the mountains

to Santa Fé.[35]

We observed this morning some traces of Indians, but none very recent.

On the preceding day we had passed the site of a large encampment,

where we saw several horse-pens well fenced.

Near the place where we halted to dine, a large herd of elk was seen;

but unfortunately they "took the wind of us," and disappeared, giving

us no opportunity to fire upon them.

Along the river bluffs we saw numerous conic mounds, resembling those

of artificial formation so frequently met with near the Ohio and

Mississippi rivers, but differing from them by their surface from

the apex to the base being terminated by a strait or concave instead

of a convex curve, which is usual in those of artificial origin. The

natural mounds of which we speak appear usually to contain a nucleus

of sandstone, which is sometimes laid bare at the summit or on the

sides, and sometimes entirely concealed by the accumulated _débris_

resting upon it, but often contains petrified remains of marine animals.

At the end of this day's ride of twenty-six miles, we found the river

valley more than a mile in width, and the distant hills or bluffs

which bound it low, and of gradual ascent. The boulders, pebbles, and

gravel so abundant near the base of the mountain, had been growing

gradually less frequent and diminishing in size, till they had now

almost entirely disappeared, their place being supplied by a fine {247}

sand intermixed with clay, which here composed the surface. The soil is

still marked with a character of extreme barrenness, the islands and

the immediate margin of the river bearing an inconsiderable growth of

cotton-wood and willows, but the great mass of the country being almost

destitute of vegetation of any kind. Hunters were sent out immediately

on encamping, and returned at dark, bringing a wild cat, an old turkey,

and five of her chickens.

A bird was taken, closely resembling in point of colouring a species

preserved in the Philadelphia Museum, under the name of _ruby-crowned

flycatcher_, said to be from the East Indies; but the bill differs in

being much less dilated. We can hardly think it a new species, yet

in the more common books we do not find any distinct description of

it. It is certainly allied to the tyrannus griseus and sulphuratus

of Vieillot; but in addition to other differential characters, it is

distinguished from the former by its yellow belly, and from the latter

by the simplicity of the colouring of the wing and tail feathers,

and the absence of bands on the side of the head; the bill also is

differently formed from that of either of those species, if we may

judge from Vieillot's figures.[36]

Friday, July 21st. We left our encampment at five A. M., and

having descended six or eight miles along the river, met an Indian and

squaw, who were, as they informed us, of the tribe called Kaskaia; by

the French, Bad-hearts. They were on horseback; and the squaw led a

third horse of uncommon beauty. They were on their way from the Arkansa

below to the mountains near the sources of the Platte, where their

nation sometimes resides. They informed us that the greater part of six

nations of Indians were encamped about nineteen days' journey below

us, on the Arkansa. These were the Kaskaias, Shiennes, Arrapahoes,

Kiawas, the Bald-heads, and a few Shoshones or Snakes. These nations,

the Kaskaia {248} informed us, had been for some time embodied, and

had been engaged in a warlike expedition against the Spaniards. They

had recently met a party of Spaniards on Red river, when a battle was

fought, in which the Spaniards were defeated with considerable loss.

We now understood the reason of a fact which had appeared a little

remarkable; namely, that we should have traversed so great an extent

of Indian country as we had done since leaving the Pawnees, without

meeting a single savage. The bands above enumerated are supposed to

comprise nearly the whole erratic population of the country about the

sources of the Platte and Arkansa; and they had all been absent from

their usual haunts on a predatory excursion against the Indians of New

Mexico.

At our request, the Kaskaia and his squaw returned with us several

miles, to point out a place suitable for fording the Arkansa, and

to give us any other information or assistance in their power to

communicate. Being made to understand that it was the design of some of

the party to visit the sources of Red river, he pretended to give us

information and advice upon that subject; also to direct us to a place

where we might find a mass of rock salt, which he described as existing

on one of the upper branches of Red river.

At ten o'clock we arrived at the ford, where we halted to make a

distribution of the baggage and other preparations requisite to the

proposed division of the party. Our Kaskaia visitor, with his handsome

and highly ornamented wife, encamped near us, erecting a little tent

covered with skins. They presented us some jerked bison meat, and

received in return some tobacco and other inconsiderable articles.

A small looking-glass, which was among the presents given him, he

immediately stripped of the frame and covering, and inserted it with

some ingenuity into a large billet of wood, on which he {249} began

to carve the figure of an alligator. Captain Bell bought of him the

horse they had led with them; and which, according to their account,

had recently been caught from among the wild horses of the prairie.

This made some new arrangement of their baggage necessary; and we were

surprised to witness the facility and despatch with which the squaw

constructed a new pack-saddle. She felled a small cotton-wood tree,

from which she cut two large forked sticks. These were soon reduced

to the proper dimensions, and adapted to the ends of two flat pieces

of wood about two feet in length, and designed to fit accurately to

the back of the horse, a longitudinal space of a few inches in width

being left between them to receive the ridge of the back. The whole

was fastened together without nails, pins, or mortices, by a strong

covering of dressed horse hide sewed on wet with fibres of deer's sinew.

The Indian informed us he was called "The Calf." He appeared

excessively fond of his squaw; and their caresses and endearments they

were at no pains to conceal. It was conjectured by our guide, and

afterwards ascertained by those who descended the Arkansa, that they

had married contrary to the laws and usages of their tribe, the woman

being already the wife of another man, and run away for concealment.

The small point of land on which we encamped has a sandy soil, and

is thinly covered with cotton-wood, intermixed with the aspen poplar

(P. tremula, Mx.) and a few willows. The undergrowth is scattered

and small, consisting principally of the amorpha fruticosa and a

syngenecious shrub, probably a vernonia. Along the base of the

mountains, and about this encampment, we had observed a small asclepias

not easily distinguished from a verticillata, but rarely rising more

than two or three inches from the ground. Here, we saw also the A.

longifolia and A. viridifolia of Punsh. The scanty {250} catalogue of

grassy and herbaceous plants found here comprises two sunflowers, (H.

giganteus, N. and an undescribed species,) the great bartonica, the

Mexican argemone, the cactus ferox, the andropogon furcatum, and A.

ciliatum, cyperus uncinatus, elymus striatus, and a few others. Soon

after arriving at this encampment, we commenced the separation of our

baggage, horses, &c. preparatory to the division of the party. It was

now proposed, pursuant to the plan already detailed, that one division

of the party, consisting of Mr. Say, Mr. Seymour, Lieut. Swift, the

three Frenchmen, Bijeau, Le Doux, and Julian, with five riflemen, the

greater part of the pack-horses, the heavy baggage, and the two dogs,

all under the direction of Captain Bell, should proceed directly down

the Arkansa by the most direct route to Fort Smith, there to await the

arrival of the other division; while Major Long, accompanied by Dr.

James, Mr. Peale, and seven men, should cross the Arkansa, and travel

southward in search of the sources of Red river.

While several of the party were engaged in making these preparations,

hunters were sent out; who were so far successful, that they soon

returned, bringing two deer, one antelope, and seven turkeys. The

opportunity of an unoccupied moment was taken to collect from Bijeau an

account of some part of the Rocky Mountains which we had not seen.

Joseph Bijeau, (or Bessonet, which is his hereditary name, the

former having been derived from a second marriage of his mother,)

had performed, in a very adequate and faithful manner, the services

of guide and interpreter from the Pawnee villages to this place. He

had formerly been resident in these western wilds, in the capacity of

hunter and trapper, during the greater part of six years.

He had traversed the country lying between the north fork of the Platte

and the Arkansa in almost every direction. His pursuits often led him

within the {251} Rocky Mountains, where the beaver are particularly

abundant. He appears possessed not only of considerable acuteness

of observation, but of a degree of candour and veracity which gives

credibility to his accounts and descriptions. To him we are indebted

for the following account of the country situated within the mountains.

The region lying west of the first range of the Rocky Mountains, and

between the sources of the Yellow Stone on the north, and Santa Fé

on the south, is made up of ridges of mountains, spurs and valleys.

The mountains are usually abrupt, often towering into inaccessible

peaks covered with perpetual snows. The interior ranges and spurs are

generally more elevated than the exterior; this conclusion is at least

naturally drawn from the fact, that they are covered with snow to a

greater extent below their summits. Although that point which we have

denominated James's Peak has been represented as higher than any other

part of the mountains within one hundred or one hundred and fifty

miles, we are inclined to believe it falls much below several other

peaks, and particularly that which was for many days observed by the

party when ascending the Platte.[37]

The valleys within the Rocky Mountains are, many of them, extensive,

being from ten to twenty or thirty miles in width, and are traversed

by many large and beautiful streams. In these valleys, which are

destitute of timber, the soil is frequently fertile and covered with

a rich growth of a white-flowered clover, upon which horses and other

animals feed with avidity. They have an undulating surface, and are

terminated on all sides by gentle slopes leading up to the base of the

circumjacent mountains. Timber may be had on the declivities of the

hills in sufficient quantity to subserve the purposes of settlement.

The soil is deep, well watered, and adapted to cultivation.

{252} The Indians who inhabit within the mountains are roving bands,

having no permanent places of residence, and subsisting entirely upon

the products of the chase. The people called Padoucas have been often

represented as residing in the district now under consideration; but

are not at this time to be found here, unless this name be synonymous

with that of the Bald-heads, or some other of the six nations already

enumerated.

On the morning of the 22d, one of two hunters who had been sent out

on the preceding day, but had not returned, came into camp to give

notice that a bison had been killed at the distance of eight miles

on the other side of the river; men were accordingly despatched with

pack-horses to bring in the meat. Astronomical observations were

resumed; and all the party were busily employed in the discharge

of their ordinary duties, or in preparations for the approaching

separation.[38] A vocabulary of the Kaskaia language was filled up with

words obtained from the Calf, who still remained with us.

The New York bat (vespertilio noveboracensis) which occurs here, does

not vary in any degree from the general characters and appearance

of individuals of the Atlantic States. The specimen we obtained is

most unequivocally furnished with incisores in the superior jaw,

which by Pennant[39] were denied to exist in the species of this

name. These teeth being small, and hardly rising to a level with a

line of the intervening callosity, might be readily overlooked by a

casual observer, who does not aid his vision by the use of the lens.

In adducing this fact, it must not be understood that we affirm the

existence of those teeth in individuals of this species generally; we

only refer to the single specimen before us.

{253} A small bat was shot this evening during the twilight, as it

flew rapidly in various directions over the surface of the creek. It

appears to be an immature specimen, as the molares are remarkably

long and acute: the canines are very much incurved, and the right

inferior one singularly bifid at tip, the divisions resembling short

bristles. This species is beyond a doubt distinct from the Carolina

bat, (V. Caroliniana, Geoff.) with which the ears are proportionably

equally elongated, and, as in that bat, a little ventricose on the

anterior edge, so as almost to extend over the eye; but the tragus

is much longer, narrower, and more acute, resembling that of the

V. emarginatus, Geoff. as well in form as in proportion to the

length of the ear. We call it V. subulatus, Say; and it may be thus

described,--ears longer than broad, nearly as long as the head; hairy

on the basal half; a little ventricose on the anterior edge, and

extending near to the eye; tragus elongated, subulate; the hair above

blackish at base, tip dull cinereous; the interfemoral membrane hairy

at base; the hairs unicoloured, and a few also scattered over its

surface and along its edge, as well as that of the brachial membrane;

hair beneath black, the tip yellowish-white; hind-feet rather long, a

few setæ extending over the nails; only a minute portion of the tail

protrudes beyond the membrane; total length, two inches and one-tenth;

tail, one and one-fifth.

This encampment was situated about eighteen miles above the confluence

of that tributary of the Arkansa called, in Pike's map, "The First

Fork;" and by our computation near one hundred miles from the base of

the mountain.[40] James's Peak was still visible, bearing north, 68°

west; and the Spanish peaks, the westernmost of which bore south, 40°

west. The observations made here received the most minute and careful

attention. The moon was at this time too near the sun to admit of

taking her distance from that luminary, and too near Antares {254} for

an observation. The distance of Spica Virginus was too great, and the

star was too near the horizon; yet we trust accurate deductions may be

made from the distances which are given in the Appendix.[41]

On the evening of both days which our Kaskaia spent with us, we

observed him to commence soon after sunset a monotonous and somewhat

melancholy song, which he continued for near an hour. He gave us some

account of a battle which had lately been fought between the Tabba-boos

(Anglo-Americans) and the Spaniards, in which great guns had been used,

and when the Spaniards, though superior in number, had been beaten. He

appeared well acquainted with the use of fire-arms, and challenged one

of the party to a trial of skill in shooting at a mark with the rifle.

He had a fusee, kept very carefully in a case of leather, and carried,

when travelling, by his squaw. He was also armed with a bow and some

light arrows for hunting, which he carried constantly in his hand. He

took his leave of us on the morning of the 23d, having received several

presents, with which he appeared highly pleased.

The Arkansa, between this point and the mountains, has a rapid current,

whose velocity probably varies from five to six miles per hour. It may

be forded at many places in a moderate stage of water. The average

breadth of the river is from sixty to seventy-five yards; at many

places, however, it is much enlarged, including numerous islands. It

pursues a remarkably serpentine course within its valley, forming a

succession of points on both sides of the river; which, together with

the islands, are usually covered with cotton-wood. The bed of the river

is gravelly, or composed of waterworn stones, which diminish in size

as you recede from the mountains. The water is turbid, but in a less

remarkable degree than that of the Platte. The bed of the river has,

in many instances, changed its place; and the old {255} channel is

sometimes occupied by stagnant water, and sometimes by a small stream,

which is rendered transparent by passing through the sand and gravel,

forming the recently-raised bank of the river.

On the 24th the movements of the party were resumed. Major Long, with

the division destined to Red river, crossed the Arkansa at five A.

M. On arriving at the opposite bank three cheers were given, which

our late companions returned from the other side. We lost sight of them

as they were leaving the camp to descend the Arkansa.

The party, consisting of ten men, took with them six horses and eight

mules, most of them in good condition for travelling. A few had sore

backs, but one horse only was unfit for service.

Our course was a little to the east of south, nearly at right angles

to the direction of the Arkansa. It was our intention to cross to and

ascend the First Fork, a considerable stream, entering the Arkansa

eighteen miles below our last encampment. After leaving the river we

found the surface to rise gradually till, at the distance of six or

eight miles, it is broken by a few small gravelly ridges. These are

of little elevation; and their summits overlook an extensive waste of

sand, terminated towards the south and east only by the verge of the

sky, on the west and north-west by the snowy summits of the Spanish

mountains. As our way led across the general course of the stream, we

met with no water, except such as was still standing in puddles, which

had been filled by the last night's rain. Near one of these we halted

to dine. The thermometer, hanging in the shade of our tent, the most

perfect, and indeed the only shade we could find, stood at 100°. The

little water we could procure was thick with mud, and swarming with

the larva of mosquitos; but this we regretted the less, as we had no

cooking to perform. We dined upon jerked meat from our packs. Some

animals, seen at a distance, {256} were at first mistaken for bisons;

but were found, by the hunters sent in pursuit of them, to be horses,

and too wild and vigilant to be taken.

A species of cone-flower (rudbeckia tagetes)[42] with an elongated

receptacle, and large red brown radial florets, was observed about the

margin of the stagnant pool near which we halted.

We also collected the linum rigidum, and a semi-procumbent species of

sida, which appears to be undescribed. It is a little larger than the

S. spinosa, to which it has some general resemblance.

The whole tract passed in this day's journey of twenty-seven miles,

is sterile and sandy. At sunset we were so fortunate as to meet with

another small pool of water, by which we pitched our tent, and kindled

a fire with the dung of the bison. Since leaving the Arkansa, we had

scarcely seen so much wood as, if collected, would have supplied us for

a single night.

We passed, in the course of the day, not less than four or five paths,

leading south-west, towards the Spanish settlements. Some of them

appeared to have been recently travelled by men with horses, such paths

being easily distinguished from those of bisons or wild horses.[43]

Our camp was near the head of a dry ravine, communicating to the

south-east, with a considerable stream, which we could distinguish

at the distance of eight or ten miles, by a few trees along its

course.[44] Continuing our journey on the ensuing day, July 25th, we

soon found ourselves in a tract of country resembling that on the

Arkansa near the mountains. A similar horizontal slaty sandstone

occurs, forming the basis of the country. There is also here a coarse,

somewhat crystalline, variety, resembling that of St. Michael's in the

lead mine district, but exhibiting no trace of metallic ores. These

rocks are deeply channeled by the watercourses, sunk to a great depth,

but at this time containing but little, if any, {257} water. These

ravines are, the greater number of them, destitute of timber, except a

few cedars, attached here and there in the crevices of the rock. The

larger valleys, which contain streams of water, have a few cotton-wood

and willow trees. The box elder, the common elder, (sambucus

canadensis,) and one or two species of biburium are seen here.

It was perhaps owing to our having followed more carefully than they

deserved, the directions of the Calf, that we did not arrive as early

as we had expected, upon the stream we designed to ascend. In the

middle of the day on the 25th, we fell in with a small river, at the

distance of thirty-six miles from the point where we had left the

Arkansa. This we concluded could be no other than that tributary,

whose mouth is said to be distant eighteen miles from the same spot.

This stream, where we halted upon it to dine, is about ten yards wide

and three feet deep, but appeared at this time unusually swollen. Its

immediate valley is about three hundred yards in width, bounded on both

sides by perpendicular cliffs of sandstone, of near two hundred feet

elevation. A very large part of the area included between these, showed

convincing evidence, in the slime and rubbish with which its surface

was covered, of having been recently inundated. This stream, like all

others of similar magnitude, having their sources in high mountains, is

subject to great and sudden floods. A short time before we halted, our

two hunters, Verplank and Dougherty, were sent forward to hunt, and

joined us with a deer soon after we had encamped.

After dinner we moved on, ascending the creek above mentioned, whose

valley was sufficiently wide for a little distance, to afford us an

easy and unobstructed passage. The stream runs nearly from south to

north, in a deep, but narrow and tortuous valley, terminated on both

sides by lofty and perpendicular precipices of red sand rock. This

sandstone {258} appears entirely to resemble that before mentioned,

as occurring in an inclined position along the base of the mountains,

on the Arkansa and Boiling-spring creek. Here it is disposed in

horizontal strata of immense thickness; it varies in colour, from a

bright brick red to a dark, and is sometimes grey, yellow, or white.

It consists essentially of rounded particles of quartz and other

siliceous stones, varying in size from the finest sand to gravel stones

and large pebbles. Extensive beds of pudding-stone occur in every part

of it, but are abundant somewhat in proportion to the proximity of

the high primitive mountains. In the lower parts of the stratum these

beds of coarse conglomerate appear to have the constituent gravel and

pebble-stones more loosely cemented than in portions nearer to the

upper surface; wherever we have met with them in immediate contact

with the granite of the Rocky Mountains, they are nearly destitute of

cement, and of a colour approaching to white. This remark, it is highly

probable, may not be applicable to many extensive beds of pudding-stone

which lie near the base of the mountains. In the instances which

came under our notice, the absence of colour and the want of cement

may very probably have been accidental. The finer varieties of the

sandstone are often met with in the immediate neighbourhood of the

granite, and are of a compact structure, and an intense colour. Red

is the prevailing colour in every part of the stratum, but stripes

of yellow, grey, and white, are frequently interspersed. In hardness

and other sensible properties, it varies widely at different points.

In many instances it is entirely similar to the sandstone about New

Brunswick, in New Jersey, at Nyac, and along the Tappan bay, in New

York, and particularly that variety of it which is quarried at Nyac,

and extensively used in the cities of New York and Albany for building.

It contains a little mica in small scales; oxyde of iron predominates

in the cement, and the ore denominated {259} the brown oxyde, occurs in

it in seniform botryoidar and irregular masses.

A few miles above our mid-day encampment, we entered the valley of a

small creek, tributary from the south-east to the stream we had been

ascending; but this we found so narrow and so obstructed by fallen

masses of rock, and almost impenetrable thickets of alders and willows,

as to render our progress extremely tedious and painful. We were

several times induced to attempt passing along the bed of the stream,

but as the mud was in many places very deep, this was done at the cost

of the most violent and fatiguing exertions on the part of our horses,

and the risk to ourselves of being thrown with our baggage into the

stream. With the hope of finding an easier route across the hills, we

ascended with much difficulty a craggy and abrupt ravine, until we had

attained nearly the elevation of the precipitous ramparts which hemmed

in the narrow valley of the creek; but all we gained by this ascent

was the opportunity of looking down upon a few of our companions still

lingering below, diminished to the stature of dwarfs by the distance,

and by contrast with the rude and colossal features of the scene.

The surface of the country extending on both sides from the summit of

the precipices, consisted of abrupt conic piles, narrow ridges, and

shapeless fragments of naked rocks, more impassable than the valley

below. Counselled therefore by necessity, we resumed our former course,

ascending along the bed of the creek.[45]

Among other birds which occurred in this day's march, we noticed the

yellow-bellied fly catcher and the obscure wren.

One of the small striped ground-squirrels already noticed was killed,

and an individual belonging to another species,[46] distinguished

by the extraordinary coarseness and flattened form of the fur, and

by three black lines on each side of the tail; these {260} lines at

their tips are of course united over the surface of the tail as in the

Barbary squirrel. It nestles in holds and crevices of the rocks, and

does not appear to ascend trees voluntarily.

It appears to inhabit principally about the naked parts of the

sandstone cliffs, or where there are only a few cedar bushes. In the

pouch of the specimens killed, we found the buds and leaves of a few

small plants, common among the rocks.

Following up the bed of the creek, we ascended by a gradual elevation

to the surface of the stratum of red sandstone. It is separated by a

somewhat distinct boundary from the finer and more compact grey variety

which rests upon it. This grey sandstone appears from the organic

relics it contains, as well as from its relative position, to have been

of more recent deposition than the red. Its prevailing colours are grey

or yellowish white; its stratifications distinct; and its cement often

argillaceous.

After entering upon this variety, we found the valley of the creek

less circuitous in direction, but narrower and more obstructed by

detached fragments than below. The impaling cliffs on each side were

also more uniformly perpendicular, putting it out of our power to

choose any other path than the rugged one before us. As with every

step of our advance upon this route, we were gaining a little in

point of elevation, we hoped by following it to reach at length its

termination in the high and open plain, which we had no doubt existed,

extending over the greater part of the surface of the country, wherever

the strata of sandstone were still unbroken. At five P. M.,

supposing we had arrived very near this much-wished-for spot, and

finding an indifferent supply of grass for our horses, we halted for

the night, having travelled fifteen miles.

July 26th. The water of the large stream we had crossed, and ascended

for some distance on the preceding {261} day, was turbid, and so

brackish as to be nauseous to the taste. The same was observed, though

in a less remarkable degree, of the little tributary we had followed up

to our encampment. After leaving the region of red sandstone, we found

the water to become perceptibly purer. In the districts occupied by

that rock, we have observed several copious springs, but not one whose

waters were without a very manifest impregnation of muriate of soda, or

other saline substances. In the gray or argillaceous sandstone springs

are less frequent, but the water is not so universally impure.

A beautiful dalea, two or three euphorbias, with several species of

eriogonum, were among the plants collected about this encampment.

Notwithstanding the barrenness of the soil and the aspect of desolation

which so widely prevails, we are often surprised by the occurrence of

splendid and interesting productions springing up under our feet, in

situations that seemed to promise nothing but the most cheerless and

unvaried sterility. Operating with unbounded energy in every situation,

adapting itself with wonderful versatility to all combinations of

circumstances; the principle of life extends its dominion over those

portions of nature which seem as if designed for the perpetual abode of

inorganic desolation, distributing some of its choicest gifts to the

most ungenial regions; fitting them by peculiarity of structure, for

the maintenance of life and vigour, in situations apparently the most

unfavoured.

At nine o'clock in the evening of the 25th, a fall of rain commenced;

we were now ten in company, with a single tent, large enough to cover

half the number. In order, however, to make the most equal distribution

of our several comforts, it was so arranged that about the half of each

man was sheltered under the tent, while the remainder was exposed to

the weather. This was effected by placing all our heads near together

in the centre of the tent, and {262} allowing our feet to project in

all directions, like the radii of a circle.

On the ensuing morning we commenced our ride at an early hour, being

encouraged still to pursue the course up the ravine, by a bison path,

which we believed would at length conduct us to the open plain. Our

progress was slow and laborious, and our narrow path so hemmed in

with perpendicular cliffs of sandstone, that our views were nearly as

confined, and the surrounding objects as unvaried as if we had been

making our way in a subterranean passage. Two black-tailed deer, with a

few squirrels, and some small birds, were all the animals seen in the

course of the day. Some enormous tracks of the grizzly bear, with the

recent signs of bisons, afforded sufficient proof that these animals,

though unseen, were near at hand.

Our courses were nearly south during the day, and the distance we

travelled, estimated on them, fifteen miles. The actual distance

passed must have been much greater, as our real course was extremely

circuitous, winding from right to left in conformity to the sinuosities

of the valley.

At 4 o'clock we arrived at the head of the stream which we had hitherto

ascended; as we were conscious that after leaving this, and emerging

into the open country, we could not expect to meet with water again

in a distance of several miles, it was resolved to halt here for the

night, and the hunters were sent out. Soon afterwards it began to

rain. At sun-set the hunters returned, having killed a female of the

black-tailed or mule deer. The flesh of this we found in tolerable

condition, and extremely grateful to our hungry party.

On the morning of the 27th, we rose at 3 o'clock, and hastened our

preparations for an early start. The morning was clear and calm, and

the copious dew which was beginning to exhale from the scanty herbage

of the valley, gave to the air a delightful {263} freshness. The

mercury, as on several of the preceding mornings, stood at about 55°.

At sun-rise we resumed our toilsome march, and before 10 o'clock, had

arrived at a part of the valley beyond which it was found impossible to

penetrate. The distance we had travelled would have been, in a direct

line, about three miles; in passing it we had followed no less than ten

different courses, running in all possible directions. This fatiguing

march had brought us to a point where the valley was so narrow, and so

obstructed with large detached rocks, as to be entirely impassable on

horseback. We were therefore under the necessity of halting, and as

the place afforded some grass, our horses were turned loose to feed,

while several persons were sent to discover, if possible, some passage

by which we might extricate ourselves from the ravine. One of them at

length returned, having found at the distance of a mile and a half

below, a pass where it was thought our horses could be led up the cliff.

On the preceding day we had commenced our accustomed march in a valley

bounded by perpendicular cliffs of red sandstone, having an elevation

of at least two hundred feet. As we ascended gradually along the bed

of the stream, we could perceive we were arriving near the surface of

this vast horizontal bed of sandrock, and at night we pitched our tent

at the very point where the red sandstone began to be overlaid in the

bed of the creek by a different variety. This second variety, the gray

sandstone, is a horizontal stratum, evidently of more than two hundred

feet in thickness. It is usually more compact and imperishable than the

red, its fragments remaining longer entire, and retaining the angles

and asperities of the surface, which in the other variety are soon

softened down by the rapid progress of disintegration.

It is easy to perceive that the sandstone formation, including the

two varieties above mentioned, {264} must be at this point of immense

thickness. Fifteen hundred feet is probably a very moderate estimate

for the aggregate elevation of some insulated, but extensive portions

of the gray sandstone, above that part of the valley at which the red

sandstone first appears. From this point downwards, the extent of the

latter variety may be very great, but no estimate can be formed which

would be in any measure entitled to confidence.

After we had dined we retraced our two last courses, and succeeded in

ascending the cliff at the place which one of the hunters had pointed

out, taking, without the least regret, our final leave of the "valley

of the souls in purgatory."[47]

From the brow of the perpendicular precipice, an ascending slope of a

few rods conducted us through scattering groves of junipers, to the

border of the open plain. Here the interminable expanse of the grassy

desert burst suddenly upon our view. The change was truly grateful.

Instead of a narrow crooked avenue, hedged in by impending cliffs and

frightful precipices, a boundless and varied landscape lay spread

before us. The broad valley of the Arkansa, studded with little groves

of timber, and terminated in the back ground by the shining summit of

James's Peak, and numerous spurs of the Rocky Mountains, with the snowy

pinnacles of the more distant ranges, limited our view on the right; on

our left, and before us, lay the extended plain, diversified with vast

conic mounds, and insulated table-like hills, while herds of bisons,

antelopes, and wild horses, gave life and cheerfulness to the scene.

A large undescribed species of the gaura is common {265} about the

banks of all the creeks we had seen since leaving the Arkansa. It

attains, ordinarily, the size of G. biennis, but is clearly distinct

both from that and all other North American species. It has a broader

leaf than any other of the genus met with in this country. The flowers

are small, of a purple colour, and incline to form a terminal spike.

The whole plant is covered with a dense silky pubescence, and is

remarkably soft to the touch. We propose to call it gaura mollis.

After travelling one mile and a half into the plain in a due south

course, we halted to take the bearings of several remarkable points.

Due east was a solitary and almost naked pile of rocks towering to a

great elevation above the surface of the plain. James's Peak bore north

71° west; the west Spanish Peak, south 87°. West magnetic variation,

13½ deg. east. As we proceeded, we were surprised to witness an

aspect of unwonted verdure and freshness in the grasses and other

plants of the plains, and in searching for the cause of this change,

we discovered we had arrived at a region differing both in point of

soil and geological features from any portion of the country we had

before seen. Several circumstances had induced us to conjecture that

rocks of the newest fletz trap formation, existed in some portions

of the secondary region along the eastern declivity of the Rocky

Mountains; but until this time we had met with no positive confirmation

of the opinion. We are glad to be at length relieved from the tiresome

sameness of the sand formation, and promised ourselves in the treasures

of a new and more fertile variety of soil, the acquisition of many

important plants.

At five P. M. we met with a little stagnant water, near

which we encamped, having travelled about ten miles nearly due south

from the point where we had left the valley of the creek. The hunters

went out on foot in pursuit of bisons, several herds being {266} in

sight; but returned at dark, having effected no more than to break the

shoulder of a young bull, who ran off, pursued by a gang of wolves.

Several of the party understanding the route the animal had taken, and

instigated in common with the wolves by the powerful incitement of

hunger, resolved to join the chase, and to dispute with their canine

competitors the possession of the prey. When they had nearly overtaken

the bison, they saw him several times thrown to the ground by the

wolves, and afterwards regaining his feet. They soon came near enough

to do execution with their pistols, and frightened away the wolves only

to make a speedier end of the harassed animal. It was now past nine

o'clock, but the starlight was sufficient to enable them to dress the

meat, with which they returned loaded to camp, and spent the greater

part of the night in regaling on the choice pieces.