Mackinaw, August, 1846.
I now write from Mackinaw, the beautiful, which studs the waters of the
north, as does the northern star its own cerulean home. But what can I
say about this island that will be new, since “every body” now pays it a
brief visit while journeying in the West? It is indeed one of the most
unique and delightful places in the world. Its shores are laved by the
waters of Superior, Michigan, and Huron, and rising abruptly as its does
to a conspicuous height, it seems as if planted there by nature as a
fortress, for the express purpose of protecting the lakes from which it
sprung. I first approached it from the north, on a mild and hazy
afternoon, and as it loomed before me, enveloped in a purple atmosphere,
I looked upon it in perfect silence, fearing that even the beating of my
heart would dispel what I thought to be a mere illusion. As our vessel
approached, however, it gradually changed into a dreamy reality, and I
could distinguish its prominent characteristics. First, was a
perpendicular bluff, crowned with a diadem of foliage, at the foot of
which was an extensive beach, occupied by an Indian encampment, where
the rude barbarians were sunning themselves like turtles, playing
fantastic games, repairing their canoes, making mats, or cooking their
evening meal, as fancy or necessity impelled. One sudden turn, and our
vessel was gliding gently into a crescent bay, which was skirted with a
cluster of trading houses and ancient looking dwellings, above which, on
a bluff, was a snow-white fortress, with soldiers marching to and fro
upon the battlements.
The circumference of this island is about nine miles, and its shores are
bold and rocky. The scenery is romantic in the extreme, and it has four
natural curiosities, either one of which would give a reputation to any
ordinary island. Arched Rock faces the north, and rises from the water
to the height of nearly two hundred feet, presenting from your canoe a
superb piece of wave-formed architecture; and appearing, as you look
through it from the summit, like the gateway to a new world. Robinson’s
Folly is also on the north shore, and is a picturesque bluff, which
obtained its name after the following manner. Many years ago an
Englishman, named Robinson, spent a summer on the island, and while
here, erected for his own especial benefit, a summer-house on the summit
of the bluff in question. He was laughed at for his pains, and was
warned by the cautious traders and Indians not to spend too much of his
time on the cliff, and especially not to visit it when the wind was
blowing. He scorned the advice which was given him in kindness, and to
show his independence, he frequently spent the night in his eyrie. On
one occasion, however, in the darkness of midnight, a thunder-storm
passed over the island, and at sunrise on the following morning, the
“cabin of the cliff” and its unfortunate inmate were buried in the deep.
Hence the name of Robinson’s Folly. Another interesting spot on this
island is called the Cave of Skulls. It lies on the western shore, and
is mainly distinguished for its historical associations. More than a
hundred years ago, according to one tradition, a party of Sioux Indians,
while pursued by the Ottowas, secreted themselves in this cave; and when
they were discovered, which happened soon to be the case, the Ottowas
built a fire before the entrance to the cave, which they kept up for
several days, and when they finally entered the gloomy chamber, their
enemies were all dead. The truth of this story is corroborated by an
incident recorded by Henry. After the massacre of Michilimackinack, this
traveller, whose life had been threatened, was secreted in this cave by
a friendly Indian. He was shown into it in the evening, scrambled over
what he thought a very singular floor, slept soundly during the night,
and on awaking in the morning, found himself reclining on a bed of human
bones. Another Mackinaw curiosity is called the Needle, and is a
lighthouse-looking rock, which overlooks the entire island, and throws
its shadow upon the ruins of Fort Holmes, which are now almost level
with the ground, and overgrown with weeds.
During my stay at Mackinaw the weather continued extremely pleasant, and
as I fancied myself midway between the wilderness and the crowded
city,—escaped from the dangers of one, and not yet entered upon the
troubles of the latter,—I threw away all care, and wandered hither and
thither, the victim of an idle will. At one time I took my sketch-book
for the purpose of portraying some interesting point upon the island,
and if a party of ladies happened to discover me in my shady haunt, I
answered their smiles with a remark, and the interview generally
terminated in my presenting each one of them with a sketch, when they
would pass on, and I would dive deeper into the green woodland. At
another time I sought the brow of some overhanging cliff, and gazed into
the translucent waters, now letting my fancy revel among the snow-white
caverns far below, and now watching the cautious movements of a solitary
lake-trout, as he left the deeper waters for an exploring expedition in
the vicinity of the shore. But I never witnessed such a sight without
being affected, somewhat like the war-horse when listening to the
trumpet’s bray, and in an hour afterwards, I was usually in a boat,
about a mile from shore, trying my luck with an artificial minnow and
fifty yards of line. Now, I strolled along the beach where the Indians
were encamped, and after gathering a lot of romantic legends from the
old men, or after spending an hour talking with some of the virgin
squaws, while making their beautiful matting, I would coax a lot of
Indian boys to accompany me, when we enjoyed a swim, mostly for our
mutual recreation, and partly for my own instruction in the manly art,
which with the red man is a part of his nature. Sometimes I strolled
into the Fort to converse with the commanding officers, or wasted a
little powder in firing at a target with the soldiers.
Mackinaw, during the season of navigation, is one of the busiest little
places in the world. All the Detroit and Chicago steamers stop here in
passing to and fro, and usually tarry a sufficient length of time to let
their passengers take a hasty ride over the island, and to replenish
their larders with trout and white-fish, which are commonly taken on
board in cart-loads. From time immemorial the Indians have been annually
summoned to this island, for the purpose of receiving their regular
instalments from the Government, in the shape of merchandise and money,
and on these occasions it is not uncommon to see an assembly of three
thousand fantastically dressed savages. But in the winter this place is
entirely ice-bound, and of course completely isolated. Then it is that
the inhabitants are favored with a monthly mail, which is brought from
Saginaw by Indians or Half-Breeds, on sledges drawn by dogs; and
fishing, skating, and story-telling are about the only things which tend
to relieve the monotony of a winter spent upon the island.
Like too many of the beautiful places on our western frontier, Mackinaw
is now in a transition state. Heretofore it has been the Indian’s
congregating place, but its aboriginal glory is rapidly departing, and
it will soon be the fashionable resort of summer travellers. Its
peculiar location, picturesque scenery, and the tonic character of its
climate, are destined to make it one of the most attractive watering
places in the country. But enough. One of the Chicago steamers is in
sight, and I must prepare my luggage, previous to taking passage for the
home of my childhood, in Southern Michigan, where I shall remain a few
days, and then hasten to my city home on the Atlantic.